I installed the ceiling in my 42'x64' (1:12 vaulted inside) building all by myself using the methods and techniques learned by watching your videos. Wrangling 16' sheets by yourself using a scissor lift with a drywall lift on top of that was not fun, but I got 'er done! I prewired romex for lights and installed R38 batt insulation as the sheets went in. It tuned out AWESOME and I saved myself about $26,000. Kyle, THANK YOU for sharing wealth of knowledge in great detail! I am in your debt sir!
I’m about there on my vaulted 40 x 64. I’m debating on doing spray foam and painting it black for my shop…was curious how to get insulation in a vaulted ceiling.
@@EricsBBQAndMORE Mine was 4:12 slope on the roof, 1:12 on the inside. There was still plenty of room in the attic. If your cost conscious, batt insulation is the way to go! I installed one ceiling sheet, then insulated it with R38, then did the next, etc.
@@machone7580 I’ve got a 4:12 with a 2:12 inside, so not much space…I’m going to consider doing spryfoam and painting it black. If the cost is close, I may go that way.
I don’t know if you mention this, but if you choose to mark out a line every 3’ for each row, I find it is best to line the sheet up to those marks first, secure that edge, then align the overlap with the previous row and secure that edge, and finally secure the middle of the sheet. It’s possible to stretch or compress the sheets slightly to stay on layout.
Kyle this was assume, you explained where the screws should go and of all the videos i have watch of yours never caught that. Thanks for all you do to give us these videos.
I'm about two thirds thru the video and I'm really wanting to ask y'all how are your shoulders feeling. I've hung rock all day and it's always great to get to walls. Y'all are really doing great in y'all's field too be asked by a manufacturer vendor too do a install video says a lot to your work integrity and quality of application KUDOS but we all know without GREG it probably wouldn't happen cause he is that dude😊
Hey Kyle I have watched several of your videos and enjoy them. On this video you are going every 8 foot where on a wall you go every 2 to 3 foot. From my thoughts I see that ceiling metal sagging due to lack of screw points. I am not a metal expert, just curious and if you could explain how that ceiling is not going to sag with the weight of insulation on top of it and gravity working against you. Thanks
Do you always screw metal on ribs or flats?? Do you use J channel around wooden hatch?? How much overlap on each panel how much?? Would you use J channel around existing 8 ft florescent lights??? Thanks sir!
Great job as usual from you guys! One thing I would critique it something I see you guys consistently doing with your visqueen vapor barrier: You guys don't tape the seams!!! Why even bother putting it up at all? It is the equivalent of leaving the glass out of every fifth window in a building. When you don't tape the seams of a V.B., it concentrates the air flow through the insulation at the seams, super densifying the condensation accumulation in the insulation in those areas. As brilliant and skilled builders as you guys are, this to me is a glaring mistake in your technique. When you do Myrex, it makes me want to buy stock in the tape company cause you tape the heck out of everything, including seams.
I always noticed that a 2x4, for instance, can vary in actual width by an 1/8' and sometimes a little more, Kyle. Have you found your metal sheets to be the same in the same order or do they sometimes vary in actual width? Just curious because I don't work with a lot of metal, and never really thought of it till you mentioned it when you were measuring the 37 7/8" on your metal sheets.
Are there problems with condensation on the panels? We are installing in the next few days, so want to try to avoid problems later. Walls and ceiling are insulated. We just installed a vapor barrier between insulation and new metal ceiling last night. We are putting up J channel tonight. Garage will have HVAC - Mini-splits.
what size roofing nails are you using for your trims. assume 1-1/4? I will be putting my ceiling up this winter but will be doing it a bit different with a vaulted ceiling and the panels running vertical from wall to center with a tin capped 2x8 down the center.
Hey @Kyle, same as my last comment a week ago have you considered LP smartside in interior with a flat paint for a quick interior finish without having to do drywall and all of the mess that entails? Saw some barndos with this and doesnt look that terrible, especially in small room like a small bedroom or closet.
Have you been back to a project to see the condition of the poly in four years or so? My experience has been that it is beginning to break down and is already in fragments where there is any UV exposure.
My builder put house wrap under my metal roof panels and all around my entire building. Would I still need a (plastic) vapor barrier between my ceiling and insulation?
I know you won’t use plastic head screws on the exterior house wrap because of telegraphing, does the cardboard piece used to attach the vapor barrier telegraph through?
Kyle please give me a supplier reference for laminated columns and brackets, I noted one supplier retired and closed ? I would appreciate the information. I actually need asap. Thanks
Vapor drive is 2 dimensional, air movement is 3 dimensional. If you're not doubling your vapor retarder as an air barrier, then taping won't do a heck of a lot provided there are good overlaps. In this case, where there is an unconditioned attic above, it is being used as an air barrier as well as the vapor retarder and should be taped and/or acoustical sealed between laps and also connected to the house wrap at the roof truss/wall junction. Air movement is the biggest carrier of vapor.
@@amandaolson3221 I think he means that the steel radiates/transmits the temperature variation at a greater rate. It will feel cold or hot in proximity to it. Dry wall is much different in temperature transmission
This is awesome Kyle! What a detailed and extremely helpful walkthrough! We appreciate your attention to detail and passion for quality! 😁😁
I installed the ceiling in my 42'x64' (1:12 vaulted inside) building all by myself using the methods and techniques learned by watching your videos. Wrangling 16' sheets by yourself using a scissor lift with a drywall lift on top of that was not fun, but I got 'er done! I prewired romex for lights and installed R38 batt insulation as the sheets went in. It tuned out AWESOME and I saved myself about $26,000. Kyle, THANK YOU for sharing wealth of knowledge in great detail! I am in your debt sir!
I’m about there on my vaulted 40 x 64. I’m debating on doing spray foam and painting it black for my shop…was curious how to get insulation in a vaulted ceiling.
@@EricsBBQAndMORE Mine was 4:12 slope on the roof, 1:12 on the inside. There was still plenty of room in the attic. If your cost conscious, batt insulation is the way to go! I installed one ceiling sheet, then insulated it with R38, then did the next, etc.
@@machone7580 I’ve got a 4:12 with a 2:12 inside, so not much space…I’m going to consider doing spryfoam and painting it black. If the cost is close, I may go that way.
your skill of explanation is top tier; that guy is so lucky to have your presence
Greg?
That white ceiling looks so much better than black!
Just came across your video and thought the building looked familiar. I believe i just put a garage door in for you. Great video
Great job, always looks good when experts do the job.
I had my doubts about your logo but on that black hoodie, that's nice
Kyle, you make it look so easy, but not all of us have a Greg, so it will be much harder. 😂😂😂
I don’t know if you mention this, but if you choose to mark out a line every 3’ for each row, I find it is best to line the sheet up to those marks first, secure that edge, then align the overlap with the previous row and secure that edge, and finally secure the middle of the sheet. It’s possible to stretch or compress the sheets slightly to stay on layout.
Absolutely! I hate seeing the overlap from the initial view, or entrance side. It's so simple yet so many miss that little detail. Looks good!
QUALITY SELLS ITSELF
ALL DAY LONG!
☮️💜🇺🇸
Kyle this was assume, you explained where the screws should go and of all the videos i have watch of yours never caught that. Thanks for all you do to give us these videos.
Awesome instructional video. Thank You.
I'm about two thirds thru the video and I'm really wanting to ask y'all how are your shoulders feeling. I've hung rock all day and it's always great to get to walls. Y'all are really doing great in y'all's field too be asked by a manufacturer vendor too do a install video says a lot to your work integrity and quality of application KUDOS but we all know without GREG it probably wouldn't happen cause he is that dude😊
Rocking ceilings, lugging that gun overhead for 8 hours a day kills. I did the hang in my own 2500 sf home and I definitely felt it.
Hi, i enjoy your videos. Can you do a wall video next please?
Not a complaint, but it's throwing me off with these coming out so early, it's a pleasant surprise!
Ceiling looks great nice work
looks seamless! " best job ive ever had !" FURY reference sir......
Great video thanks for sharing
Another info video , 👍👍👍 thanks guys
You are the best 🎉🎉
Great instructional video! Loose laps sink ships?
Thanks
OUTSTANDING : o .....
great video
I would be pissed too if I had to put up all the Effin J around the perimeter too 😂😂 your metal work is amazing!!
Awesome
looks real good
Hey Kyle I have watched several of your videos and enjoy them. On this video you are going every 8 foot where on a wall you go every 2 to 3 foot. From my thoughts I see that ceiling metal sagging due to lack of screw points. I am not a metal expert, just curious and if you could explain how that ceiling is not going to sag with the weight of insulation on top of it and gravity working against you.
Thanks
Do you always screw metal on ribs or flats?? Do you use J channel around wooden hatch?? How much overlap on each panel how much?? Would you use J channel around existing 8 ft florescent lights??? Thanks sir!
Nails always go in center between ribs. Guarantees that screws don’t hit nails.
100%
" the trailing edge sir!"
Great job as usual from you guys!
One thing I would critique it something I see you guys consistently doing with your visqueen vapor barrier: You guys don't tape the seams!!! Why even bother putting it up at all? It is the equivalent of leaving the glass out of every fifth window in a building.
When you don't tape the seams of a V.B., it concentrates the air flow through the insulation at the seams, super densifying the condensation accumulation in the insulation in those areas.
As brilliant and skilled builders as you guys are, this to me is a glaring mistake in your technique. When you do Myrex, it makes me want to buy stock in the tape company cause you tape the heck out of everything, including seams.
Since you didn't install a vapor permeable vapor barrier isn't it going to trap moisture between steel and plastic?
I always noticed that a 2x4, for instance, can vary in actual width by an 1/8' and sometimes a little more, Kyle. Have you found your metal sheets to be the same in the same order or do they sometimes vary in actual width? Just curious because I don't work with a lot of metal, and never really thought of it till you mentioned it when you were measuring the 37 7/8" on your metal sheets.
Are there problems with condensation on the panels? We are installing in the next few days, so want to try to avoid problems later. Walls and ceiling are insulated. We just installed a vapor barrier between insulation and new metal ceiling last night. We are putting up J channel tonight. Garage will have HVAC - Mini-splits.
Good evening
what size roofing nails are you using for your trims. assume 1-1/4? I will be putting my ceiling up this winter but will be doing it a bit different with a vaulted ceiling and the panels running vertical from wall to center with a tin capped 2x8 down the center.
no tape on the vapour barrier????
Looks like roof trusses are 8ft apart? That's a long span in between screws for that panel steel plus the insulation weight...
Hey @Kyle, same as my last comment a week ago have you considered LP smartside in interior with a flat paint for a quick interior finish without having to do drywall and all of the mess that entails? Saw some barndos with this and doesnt look that terrible, especially in small room like a small bedroom or closet.
He he's done that in the Music Garage he built
I would use the LP board and bat panels but not put up any bats.
Let’s go!
Have you been back to a project to see the condition of the poly in four years or so? My experience has been that it is beginning to break down and is already in fragments where there is any UV exposure.
How much time did it take to install this metal ceiling????
My builder put house wrap under my metal roof panels and all around my entire building. Would I still need a (plastic) vapor barrier between my ceiling and insulation?
I know you won’t use plastic head screws on the exterior house wrap because of telegraphing, does the cardboard piece used to attach the vapor barrier telegraph through?
Does the steel count as a fire block? I know you have to have drywall on most applications first.
best way to cut it to length?
Kyle please give me a supplier reference for laminated columns and brackets, I noted one supplier retired and closed ?
I would appreciate the information.
I actually need asap.
Thanks
I am curious as to why you didn't tape the plastic? I am thinking because it is not needed?
Vapor drive is 2 dimensional, air movement is 3 dimensional. If you're not doubling your vapor retarder as an air barrier, then taping won't do a heck of a lot provided there are good overlaps.
In this case, where there is an unconditioned attic above, it is being used as an air barrier as well as the vapor retarder and should be taped and/or acoustical sealed between laps and also connected to the house wrap at the roof truss/wall junction. Air movement is the biggest carrier of vapor.
What is the most common ceiling color?
I hope this is not a stupid question, where is the the insulation though?
I got sound back at 5 minutes 28 seconds.
😁👍🏼
👍👌👏
@Kyle, Thoughts on doing this for a residential building for the ceilings to add a different feel to the whole building interior?
Metal sheets are Not efficient for temperature control
@aberba neither is drywall, insulation is good for temperature control though.
@@amandaolson3221 I think he means that the steel radiates/transmits the temperature variation at a greater rate. It will feel cold or hot in proximity to it. Dry wall is much different in temperature transmission
For sound alone, drywall is definitely superior. Metal would make a very loud house.
Where's the sound???????????
I sure wish I wasn’t a broke ass.
Way too many joins...
It looks like you are putting the nails in an area where there is no risk of coming back and hitting the nail with a screw.
There’s no risk. He hits at the middle 9:44 with the nail, and screws 18:03 at the edges of the waves.
@@GEK69NY That is what I was pointing out. The nails are put in where there is no risk of being hit by a screw.
❤❤❤
🤪🤪🤪
Metal ceilings are terrible for acoustics.