Two success tips not mentioned. 1 snap chalk lines on concrete to give you visual aim lines to push jetting pipe. 2 place a brick or other non-water softening hard surface in your trench where you start. This allows you to push down on the pipe and keep it bowed tight to the bottom of the concrete. As an electrician I have seen where running a conduit for post lights has been 3 feet down by the other side of a double driveway when not using an angle stop.
I’ve done this by sticking a pressure washer wand in the pipe. The extra pressure make it even faster. Used it for setting pipes in as fence posts as well. When it dries the post is solid, no tamping required.
Great shot! . But down in the land of Oz, we use two pipes, and the outer one serves as a return for the debris and stops caverning and weakening the concrete. A 45 degree cut on the boring pipe works well. John
I did this when I was nineteen years old for my mom. Water main busted under the driveway. Instead of fixing it I dug holes on both sides, placed what you did on your pipe except I placed a jet nozzle on the other end and forced the new pipe through. Success, Saved her and her insurance a boatload of cash.
I have never done this but after watching this using water to push aside the substrate under the concrete to push through the pipe is ingenious but I see one problem with this : the integrity of the concrete driveway substrate had been compromised. Over the years of driving over the void where the pipe is will eventually crack and collapse. Personally a bad idea to do unless a grout or a slurry has been pump in to fill the void left by the water pushing the dirt aside. Thanks for sharing your project.
Put a nozzle jet on the end of pipe. Then jet pipe under drive. That’s how us landscapers do it. Much more effective than mere pvc pipe with no nozzle fitting. Trust me- 34 yrs. experience!
ever have a problem with the asphalt driveway cracking? thinking of using this method on a system but don't want to have to replace the asphalt driveway
I like your method of getting a watering line for a drip watering line. When I do mine I’m thinking of grinding teeth shaped on the end to help break the soil with. Thank you for the hands approach to bring it done.
Using a heat gun, soften the first 2” of pipe. Using slip-jaw pliers, crimp down two sides of the pipe to foam a lipped point. This adds a downward angle to work under obstructions and increases the waters velocity. It’s the same pressure & volume just at a faster speed like a Venturi effect used in carburetors. When done, cut it back to round useable pipe for connection. Heating PVC pipe is done all the time for electrical service feed lines as rock ledges or boulders are below the surface. Once the trench is cleaned and established, the soft pipe will conform to the bottom over large obstructions but with electrical, a locating wire is added, concrete is placed on the conduit to protect it including a coil warning tape. Just a thought taken from another industry!
Best tip so so far. In the uk the sub base is usually a lot thicker with all kinds of nasties buried I can't see this working here unless you use steel rods and a power tool to hammer it through.
Electrician since 97 ... we've had to do this from time to time and if the concrete is thicker in a area it can cause issues i use ridged conduit and beat it with a hammer when it gets stuck thanks for sharing
I did this over 40 years ago. Two inch pipe, two feet deep, under a street and hit hole on other side dead dead on. Reduced pipe to 1/4 inch hole. Worked great. Jake Cobbs
Just brilliant. Putting in a diy sprinkler system this spring, thinking about how I was gonna get from one side to the other. This idea popped into my head, went to RUclips to see if anyone else tried it and BOOM! THANKS!
Lowes sells a kit for 5 bucks to glue on your pvc pipe,it has a tapered end to wash through with and a hose fitting you glue on the other endto connect your hose very easy to do. Use this method all the time putting in sprinkler systems.
If you glue a pvc cap on the end and drill a hole in the center it will go faster and act like a jet and be easier . This is how i do it for my plumbing company.
Was thinking that myself, a piece thats pointed bout 3 inches maybe with a piss hole hole at the end, that way its more drilling with tje water pressure its pointed end, and does not allow mote dirt washed out from jaming a blunt end.
I put a pipe under a driveway, just like you did. A few months later the concrete cracked exactly over the pipe and subsided 1/4 " but has been stable ever since.
One important point that was not mentioned is that if you need to cross a, say, 8 foot driveway, then you need to dig a trough 8 feet long out from the starting location in order for the 8 foot long PVC pipe to lay flat and horizontal (even in height to your starting hole) which is typically about 4 or 5 inches below the top of your concrete driveway. If you don't dig the trough long enough then the PVC pipe will dig downward and not stay horizontal at 4 or 5 inches - it will instead come out the other side at some much deeper point.
Thank you for being so smart! The construction guy said I had to break the side walk to install my pvc on the other side of it. How lucky am I to bump into your video. Gracias from Mexico! :)
Great video. A few things to consider might be...cut the end of the pipe on an angle to possibly make it easier going in under driveway. Add a shutoff valve to save walking back & forth to the hose bib at the house. Use a little longer pipe so you aren't smashing your hands against the concrete at the end. Well done 😎👍
I have seen this done in northern climates but usually go much deeper to minimize issues with water, freezing, settling, etc. Have also seen guys rig up a steel extension pipe and do it with a pressure washer. (look out for flying mud!)
The excessive soil displacement, erosion and potential for future concrete damage mentioned in the comments is exactly why hydro-boring is illegal in many states.
Problem with this method is it washes away more dirt than the pipe will replace. You can get a crack in the concrete from the lack of support. I can show you cracks in my driveway and sidewalk from using this method. I found it better to use electrical EMT metal pipe. I hammer one end flat and then hammer it under the driveway/sidewalk. Compacts the soil so no cracks. It will lift pavers if you're to close to the bottom of them. Just cut off the ends of the pipe after you get it in and you've got a pipe to run smaller pipes and/or wires in.
What happens when the ground is clay? Of course it’s going to be a sand base when the concrete is poured. Running a piece of poly or pvc under a sidewalk would work but a driveway? No. Best to rent or hire out someone with a boring machine...cost a bit but it’ll save your driveway from cracking.
I've tried this method before, doesn't work. I mean it will in certain conditions where soil is soft. Any other condition and it doesn't work, trust me I've tried. I've tried it in hard rocky dirt and it went about 2 foot in, not even the slightest inch more. I've tried it in clay and same sort of problem, it just gets too hard. Even with a sledge hammer I couldn't get it, it started to bend the pipe like a bent nail where you can't even continue. Also once you've hammered and it's gotten stuck 2 foot in, it's near impossible to pull out unless you half inch a rope to it and pull it out with a vehicle. Also per NEC code EMT conduit is not suitable for direct burial, it'll corrode and completely fall apart over time. If you are going to use a certain metal, it's got to be something on the lines of galvanized steel rigid conduit.
Theres a fix for that. Crude but works use low expanding GREAT STUFF IN A SERIES OF HOLES ACROSS TRENCH LINE BEFORE STUFFING CENTER YOUR PIPE OR USE CHALKLINE AND ZIG ZAG ROWS HOLES EITHER SIDE PIPE THE FOAM IF USED CAREFULLY WILL SUPPORT DRIVEWAY OR SIDEWALK. HIGH EXPANSION FOAM CAN WILL RAISE CRACK CONCRETE USE LOTS OF LOW EXPANSION FOAM.
Home Depot has a kit for this using a nozzle on the end and a connection for the hose at the other end. just leave the pipe in after you're done hook up to it
Years ago I had a new 3500 sq ft building built. Before paving the the drive, which went past the building from street to street I laid three 1 inch and one two inch capped PVC pipes near each end of the drive for future use. About 3 years later we needed to get a com line and a sprinkler line to the other side of the driveway. No problem. Obviously will not work with an existing drive. Just an idea for new construction.
We'd glue fittings on each end of the pipe, pipe's gotta be longer than the bore. One fitting takes the end of your common garden hose, that's your bore medium. The other takes one of those short, brass pressure nozzles you can buy at any garden shop. Trench a groove so you can keep flush with the concrete, turn on the water, and have fun. The brass nozzle can take a lot of beating, where just the plastic wears out quickly. Be aware that if you hit a rock and deflect, your bore could end up deeper, or left/right of your planned bore line. Remember, this is a water bore, not a drill.
Next time fix a reduction at the tip of the pipe with the water to act as a jetting nozzle and place it in another pipe. That way the spent water with the displaced sand or gravel will come out through the outer pipe which will remain stuck tightly, thus supporting the weight of the concrete and reducing the possibility of cracking. I've seen deep wells sunk using this method.
If that is a question that stumps You Construction is not for you. Obviously if you are pouring a driveway you would put one conduit near the garage and one near the road.
Great video I have zero irrigation besides a garden hose and watering lawn by hand is getting old, this was the one area I was not sure how to run piping under driveway. After watching your video I can install irrigation and let the timer do the watering. Thanks
my first thought, how well does this work if your base was properly compacted rock? to protect from both running in to rock base and cracking in your concrete, better to dig down further as the load decreases on the concrete above.
I think I’d put an end cap on the drilling end and drill a1/4 hole to add a super strong spray nozzle. My drive is about 20 feet so, it’ll take some work. Think I’ll go about a foot or so longer than the width of the drive so I’d have some room to work with on both ends. But keep this in mind: 1/3 will do this a will be successful 1/3 will try,then call a professional 1/3 won’t even attempt this as it is too foreign to them. LOL! Good job!
I used this method years ago, when I wanted to run TV cable, and telephone wire, to a room in my house without running it up around the eaves of the house. My job was much easier, as I only had to bore under about 4 ft of sidewalk. Once I got the 3/4 in pvc pipe through, I simply fished my wires through and I was set. By doing this I only had to run about about 12 feet of cable and phone line, as opposed to running about 3 times that much around the eaves, or through the attic.
Use ground mole or grundermat witch runs off a compressor,shaped like a torpedo about one metre long has hammer trash bolt in side witch punches dirt aside leaving a perfect hole as it hammer in
Sometimes in newer homes the contractors bring in roller to really pack the earth when installing driveways and some places just have a natural high clay percentage. If you add a 2" section down to 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 then about 20 to 30 foot of 3/4" the restricking pipe size really puts a punch to your water pressure.
Man I have been looking for a video like this. I am going to do this over the next few days and I hope its as easy and you make it look for a driveway with 2 cars.
I did the same thing under a black top road, using a cap with a few holes in it. It was long enough so I had to add the second 20" joint in the middle of the job. No problem.
That’s a great tip I’ve been trying to pick my way through a gravel lane for a wire on the other side without much luck I can’t wait to try this thank you
I discovered this drilling method as a 4 year old, playing with the garden hose in our sandy back yard in Holly MI, I buried the hose so deep we could not pull it out without the water on! Have a fun day, that was about 55 years ago.
Look guys, I have run this set-up a couple of times with a dead wall found 2 ft in. Then a nasty 1/2 rebar was used, with water jet,....no penetration. Let's be fair and assume that in a few applications there is almighty rock and such under that concrete slab. A sledgehammer driving that rebar made no difference. The method is a good one however there are exceptions. Thank you.
A method I have used in red clay with good success is taking a piece of EMT, hammer one end close. And then beat it under the sidewalk. You can cut the closed end off with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and then you have a conduit under the sidewalk
No No No!!!! EMT conduit is not permitted by code for direct burial / contact with earth. It will rot away and possibly cause damage to the conductors within it. If you are considering using it as a boring tool and casing which will then have a pvc or approved direct bury pipe within it, then have at it.
You could take a hack saw and cut the push end so it almost has teeth to help cut when you rotate your pipe. Act like a cutter. Just a thought. Great idea!!
I would think if you have a concern about caverning, that you could drill holes every so couple of feet across the driveway after snapping a chalk line, and inject with concrete from a commercial chalking gun, or with some kind of industrial Great Stuff foam type filler. Then just patch the holes to match driveway.
Excellent how-to! Thanx! I wonder if I were to cut a couple V notches in the end of the pipe if it would help cut stubborn dirt while having to twist the “bit”.
Just an angle wouldn't so much because the water pressure would be going out that cut and you want all the water pressure going forward to bore the hole out. Making a few V cuts on the end to create pointed teeth like a hole saw bit really helps when you twist it as you're going in.
Much easier .. Before I put in my driveway I put two 1 inch pipes across & sealed each end so will have no problem if I need to install a substitute electricity or water across the finished area..
That went real well I was sitting here watching and just cringing as you got near through. I could see you getting real close and was hoping that last bit didn't suddenly go easy and make you hit the edge of that concrete hard with your hand, and take a good chunk of skin off. luckily it didn't you kept your skin and didn't have to edit some kinda interesting words out to L.O.L. Thanks for sharing and take care.
Hahaha, Yeah I can band myself up pretty good on some of the projects. My hands paid for it on the backhoe transmission for sure. I Appreciate the view. Thanks.
Thank you! I've been trying to figure out a way to get a wire under my asphalt driveway for a pet containment system. This will look prettier than me cutting a line across my driveway and filling it with caulk!
This is my second viewing of this procedure, just making sure of what to get for the rig. Our driveway is made up of pavers and I’m not sure I will have to bore beneath them. The last thing I want is to NOT be deep enough and have the pavers sink where the new pipe is! I will let you know how this works out sir.
This worked for me...I took a break about midstream and went into the house to fix me a Peanut butter and jelly sandwich, and a medium glass of cold milk. I had so much energy to finish the job. So your supplies consist of 1 pipe, one fitting, one coupling, and 1 jar of peanut butter , jelly, loaf of bread, on knife, Milk.
Cut out a straight section of your driveway to run a pvc pipe like how you ran yours. Removed the dirt and lay the pipe. Replace the dirt you would have taken out then lay new concrete to fill in the driveway. I would assume that would be better so you don't end up with a crack from lack of support.
I'm an electrician I've done a bunch of times it's better to put a three-quarter male PVC fitting on the end put a high-pressure hose end on the end and it goes through much faster the trick is try to keep your PVC and up high toward the concrete otherwise it'll go down down down you'll have to dig deeper to get it
our soils in the NE region are a bit heavier and rocky than yours. we have a slip on bit for our pipes that has a series of small teeth in the lead edge. they bite into and move the wet muck a bit better than a smooth lead PVC pipe end.
We used pressure washer to do that in less than 2 minutes I think. But it was much shorter than that and we just drilled with pressure washer from both sides...
That was cool to watch. Comcast sent a drilling company out to my house. They had a big ass machine with a long drill bit to go under my 2 car driveway to put a single cable wire (no conduit) to my house from the main source by the street. I thought that was cool. This was much cooler and quicker. I'm not sure how well this method would work for me as my soil is pretty much clay (Indiana). It's difficult to dig even small holes in my dirt. But I wondered how this method would impact driveway cracking later on? Or does the dirt wrap around that conduit nice and snug? Thanks.
That only works if you have sandy, soft soil. Try doing that in clay or rocky soil and you will be out of luck. When I worked for the cable company we used Pneumatic "moles" to bore under driveways and roads.
I'm just trying to open up some water drainage where my concrete driveway impedes it. My driveway is 8 ft wide. This seems like the way to go. But I have to dig a path for the hose water to drain off. Thought I'd need a pump. Your system is much easier. Thanks!
Good idea. Seems it might be easier if you chopped a “kings crown” into the tip to be able to twist and shout (humor) to grind when needed to be cut off clean after penetration completion. Also, stay well below stones. Tree roots are also a problem in some locations.
Whenever I used this method, I put a nozzle on the business end and turned the water on full. One wants to maximize the hydraulic horsepower at the tip. Still not a bad job.
A variant to "saintnash's" comment that will dramatically improve jetting speed and further reduce caverning is the addition of a 3" - 4" long bolt protruding from the jetting cap. It doesn't even need to be ground to a point. Just center drill an appropriate size hole in the cap and affix a 1/4 or 3/8" bolt with a nut. The bolt will displace earth like warm butter! I would also make sure those jetting holes are small. Like 1/8" dia max! The less earth you can disturb the better. Even with these mods I agree with FortunaZKat's method for being the least prone to creating a crack zone. Wakodahatchee Chris
This is a great idea! It solves a problem that I have of how to run a line under a sidewalk in my yard. However, I am curious whether a crack developed in the slab over the length of the pipe that you installed under that driveway? Do you have any updates?
I have done the same thing many times except once inserted I turn the water all the way up and I use a high pressure nozzle at the end it goes much faster and a lot less labor
I’d be curious to know how this would work in a Northern climate. It’s possible that the void left will fill up with water and expand in a freeze and crack the concrete. I’ve seen pvc drain pipes plug up, fill with water and freeze and crack concrete.
If your concrete driveway was done right with control scoring, joints, and steel there shouldnt be a problem. It can be done right with little washout.
Two success tips not mentioned. 1 snap chalk lines on concrete to give you visual aim lines to push jetting pipe. 2 place a brick or other non-water softening hard surface in your trench where you start. This allows you to push down on the pipe and keep it bowed tight to the bottom of the concrete. As an electrician I have seen where running a conduit for post lights has been 3 feet down by the other side of a double driveway when not using an angle stop.
I’ve done this by sticking a pressure washer wand in the pipe. The extra pressure make it even faster. Used it for setting pipes in as fence posts as well. When it dries the post is solid, no tamping required.
“Setting pipes in a fence post”? That sounds like a great idea. If you know of any videos and content please share, that could be very helpful. Thanks
Great shot! . But down in the land of Oz, we use two pipes, and the outer one serves as a return for the debris and stops caverning and weakening the concrete. A 45 degree cut on the boring pipe works well. John
The jet trail at the end was the highlight for me. Well done sir. Impeccable timing.
I did this when I was nineteen years old for my mom. Water main busted under the driveway. Instead of fixing it I dug holes on both sides, placed what you did on your pipe except I placed a jet nozzle on the other end and forced the new pipe through. Success, Saved her and her insurance a boatload of cash.
I have never done this but after watching this using water to push aside the substrate under the concrete to push through the pipe is ingenious but I see one problem with this : the integrity of the concrete driveway substrate had been compromised.
Over the years of driving over the void where the pipe is will eventually crack and collapse.
Personally a bad idea to do unless a grout or a slurry has been pump in to fill the void left by the water pushing the dirt aside.
Thanks for sharing your project.
Put a nozzle jet on the end of pipe. Then jet pipe under drive. That’s how us landscapers do it. Much more effective than mere pvc pipe with no nozzle fitting. Trust me- 34 yrs. experience!
I think he didn't have enough pipe to cut off temporary fittings, but I thought the same thing.
tell the crack head on the other end to take a large exhale. .....just kidding
How about under black top driveways>?
ever have a problem with the asphalt driveway cracking? thinking of using this method on a system but don't want to have to replace the asphalt driveway
Do you have pic what a nozzle jet what type you use
I like your method of getting a watering line for a drip watering line. When I do mine I’m thinking of grinding teeth shaped on the end to help break the soil with. Thank you for the hands approach to bring it done.
I've always chosen about a foot longer and stiffer PVC. Also cutting and sharpening the ramming end to a wedge helps too.
Using a heat gun, soften the first 2” of pipe. Using slip-jaw pliers, crimp down two sides of the pipe to foam a lipped point. This adds a downward angle to work under obstructions and increases the waters velocity. It’s the same pressure & volume just at a faster speed like a Venturi effect used in carburetors. When done, cut it back to round useable pipe for connection. Heating PVC pipe is done all the time for electrical service feed lines as rock ledges or boulders are below the surface. Once the trench is cleaned and established, the soft pipe will conform to the bottom over large obstructions but with electrical, a locating wire is added, concrete is placed on the conduit to protect it including a coil warning tape.
Just a thought taken from another industry!
A length of rebar could be slid in the pipe to hammer out any stubborn rocks.
Or you can just put it on your drill and use it as a drill bit.
yep,
Best tip so so far.
In the uk the sub base is usually a lot thicker with all kinds of nasties buried I can't see this working here unless you use steel rods and a power tool to hammer it through.
Electrician since 97 ... we've had to do this from time to time and if the concrete is thicker in a area it can cause issues i use ridged conduit and beat it with a hammer when it gets stuck thanks for sharing
I’d cut a diagonal on the end to give it a point. Better than a blunt end. However I love the idea of the auger inside the pipe idea. Brilliant!
I did this over 40 years ago. Two inch pipe, two feet deep, under a street and hit hole on other side dead dead on. Reduced pipe to 1/4 inch hole. Worked great. Jake Cobbs
Just brilliant. Putting in a diy sprinkler system this spring, thinking about how I was gonna get from one side to the other. This idea popped into my head, went to RUclips to see if anyone else tried it and BOOM! THANKS!
.
Lowes sells a kit for 5 bucks to glue on your pvc pipe,it has a tapered end to wash through with and a hose fitting you glue on the other endto connect your hose very easy to do. Use this method all the time putting in sprinkler systems.
Amazing result. Obviously has its limitations but certainly worth considering under a garden path with right soil composition.
If you glue a pvc cap on the end and drill a hole in the center it will go faster and act like a jet and be easier . This is how i do it for my plumbing company.
Yip. He would have been done in 4 minutes instead.
Was thinking that myself, a piece thats pointed bout 3 inches maybe with a piss hole hole at the end, that way its more drilling with tje water pressure its pointed end, and does not allow mote dirt washed out from jaming a blunt end.
Would a metal conduit work better, than follow that with the pvc? Or would that be too rigid to make a leveled layout?
Do you mind showing us how?
Lol
I put a pipe under a driveway, just like you did. A few months later the concrete cracked exactly over the pipe and subsided 1/4 " but has been stable ever since.
Wonder if you could drill a hole vertically into drive half way and inject foam to fill annular void and support drive so it won’t crack
bottle jacks and spray foam - you can do it!
One important point that was not mentioned is that if you need to cross a, say, 8 foot driveway, then you need to dig a trough 8 feet long out from the starting location in order for the 8 foot long PVC pipe to lay flat and horizontal (even in height to your starting hole) which is typically about 4 or 5 inches below the top of your concrete driveway. If you don't dig the trough long enough then the PVC pipe will dig downward and not stay horizontal at 4 or 5 inches - it will instead come out the other side at some much deeper point.
Thank you for being so smart! The construction guy said I had to break the side walk to install my pvc on the other side of it. How lucky am I to bump into your video. Gracias from Mexico! :)
Great video. A few things to consider might be...cut the end of the pipe on an angle to possibly make it easier going in under driveway. Add a shutoff valve to save walking back & forth to the hose bib at the house. Use a little longer pipe so you aren't smashing your hands against the concrete at the end. Well done 😎👍
I have seen this done in northern climates but usually go much deeper to minimize issues with water, freezing, settling, etc. Have also seen guys rig up a steel extension pipe and do it with a pressure washer. (look out for flying mud!)
Thanks for the video, It will save me a lot of work breaking concrete, you are the best, Frank
The excessive soil displacement, erosion and potential for future concrete damage mentioned in the comments is exactly why hydro-boring is illegal in many states.
Problem with this method is it washes away more dirt than the pipe will replace. You can get a crack in the concrete from the lack of support. I can show you cracks in my driveway and sidewalk from using this method. I found it better to use electrical EMT metal pipe. I hammer one end flat and then hammer it under the driveway/sidewalk. Compacts the soil so no cracks. It will lift pavers if you're to close to the bottom of them. Just cut off the ends of the pipe after you get it in and you've got a pipe to run smaller pipes and/or wires in.
What happens when the ground is clay? Of course it’s going to be a sand base when the concrete is poured. Running a piece of poly or pvc under a sidewalk would work but a driveway? No. Best to rent or hire out someone with a boring machine...cost a bit but it’ll save your driveway from cracking.
👍🏻👍🏻
Concrete cracks
I've tried this method before, doesn't work. I mean it will in certain conditions where soil is soft. Any other condition and it doesn't work, trust me I've tried. I've tried it in hard rocky dirt and it went about 2 foot in, not even the slightest inch more. I've tried it in clay and same sort of problem, it just gets too hard. Even with a sledge hammer I couldn't get it, it started to bend the pipe like a bent nail where you can't even continue. Also once you've hammered and it's gotten stuck 2 foot in, it's near impossible to pull out unless you half inch a rope to it and pull it out with a vehicle. Also per NEC code EMT conduit is not suitable for direct burial, it'll corrode and completely fall apart over time. If you are going to use a certain metal, it's got to be something on the lines of galvanized steel rigid conduit.
Theres a fix for that. Crude but works use low expanding GREAT STUFF IN A SERIES OF HOLES ACROSS TRENCH LINE BEFORE STUFFING CENTER YOUR PIPE OR USE CHALKLINE AND ZIG ZAG ROWS HOLES EITHER SIDE PIPE THE FOAM IF USED CAREFULLY WILL SUPPORT DRIVEWAY OR SIDEWALK. HIGH EXPANSION FOAM CAN WILL RAISE CRACK CONCRETE USE LOTS OF LOW EXPANSION FOAM.
enjoyed your hands on demonstration. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for your informative demonstration. I’ll use your process to run an electrical cable path under my driveway slab. Good video.
Home Depot has a kit for this using a nozzle on the end and a connection for the hose at the other end. just leave the pipe in after you're done hook up to it
Years ago I had a new 3500 sq ft building built. Before paving the the drive, which went past the building from street to street I laid three 1 inch and one two inch capped PVC pipes near each end of the drive for future use. About 3 years later we needed to get a com line and a sprinkler line to the other side of the driveway. No problem. Obviously will not work with an existing drive. Just an idea for new construction.
We'd glue fittings on each end of the pipe, pipe's gotta be longer than the bore. One fitting takes the end of your common garden hose, that's your bore medium. The other takes one of those short, brass pressure nozzles you can buy at any garden shop. Trench a groove so you can keep flush with the concrete, turn on the water, and have fun. The brass nozzle can take a lot of beating, where just the plastic wears out quickly.
Be aware that if you hit a rock and deflect, your bore could end up deeper, or left/right of your planned bore line.
Remember, this is a water bore, not a drill.
Next time fix a reduction at the tip of the pipe with the water to act as a jetting nozzle and place it in another pipe. That way the spent water with the displaced sand or gravel will come out through the outer pipe which will remain stuck tightly, thus supporting the weight of the concrete and reducing the possibility of cracking. I've seen deep wells sunk using this method.
It you're going to insert a smaller pipe into the pipe that's doing the cutting anyway, that makes perfect sense! Thanks for the improvement!
Next time? How many times do you think he will be doing that?
Anytime you pour a large concrete, alway throw in a 3 inch pipe underneath just Incase later on.
Lol. Where would you put it or are you saying just put one every foot?
That's right.Thinking ahead will save you much misery in the future.
plus a spare or two lol
Makes a good stash spot too lol....
If that is a question that stumps You Construction is not for you. Obviously if you are pouring a driveway you would put one conduit near the garage and one near the road.
Great video I have zero irrigation besides a garden hose and watering lawn by hand is getting old, this was the one area I was not sure how to run piping under driveway. After watching your video I can install irrigation and let the timer do the watering. Thanks
Thanks for the valuable information, was thinking about destroying my driveway 😂😂😂 to get the pipe across. Saved my time and $$$$&
my first thought, how well does this work if your base was properly compacted rock?
to protect from both running in to rock base and cracking in your concrete, better to dig down further as the load decreases on the concrete above.
Great, superb, brilliant, idea. Very educative. Must try it out. Thanks for your lovely insight.👍👍
That was a slick inexpensive way to do that. Thanks.
I think I’d put an end cap on the drilling end and drill a1/4 hole to add a super strong spray nozzle. My drive is about 20 feet so, it’ll take some work. Think I’ll go about a foot or so longer than the width of the drive so I’d have some room to work with on both ends. But keep this in mind:
1/3 will do this a will be successful
1/3 will try,then call a professional
1/3 won’t even attempt this as it is too foreign to them. LOL! Good job!
I've been wanting to do something like this but had no idea how to get under my driveway. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, today you taught a old man something new. John Mangas
Works like a charm........ Many times, as a BellSouth tech, I had to tunnel a driveway for the buried service wire 👍🏼
Multiple retaining walls were always a challenge. I used a ground rod and pieces of temporary to pull the cable thought.
I used this method years ago, when I wanted to run TV cable, and telephone wire, to a room in my house without running it up around the eaves of the house. My job was much easier, as I only had to bore under about 4 ft of sidewalk. Once I got the 3/4 in pvc pipe through, I simply fished my wires through and I was set. By doing this I only had to run about about 12 feet of cable and phone line, as opposed to running about 3 times that much around the eaves, or through the attic.
Use ground mole or grundermat witch runs off a compressor,shaped like a torpedo about one metre long has hammer trash bolt in side witch punches dirt aside leaving a perfect hole as it hammer in
Sometimes in newer homes the contractors bring in roller to really pack the earth when installing driveways and some places just have a natural high clay percentage. If you add a 2" section down to 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 then about 20 to 30 foot of 3/4" the restricking pipe size really puts a punch to your water pressure.
Man I have been looking for a video like this. I am going to do this over the next few days and I hope its as easy and you make it look for a driveway with 2 cars.
I did the same thing under a black top road, using a cap with a few holes in it. It was long enough so I had to add the second 20" joint in the middle of the job. No problem.
Thanks! Got drain under a 4ft section of blacktop where driveway meets walkway. Solved a problem without damaging walkway. 🇺🇸
That’s a great tip I’ve been trying to pick my way through a gravel lane for a wire on the other side without much luck I can’t wait to try this thank you
I discovered this drilling method as a 4 year old, playing with the garden hose in our sandy back yard in Holly MI, I buried the hose so deep we could not pull it out without the water on!
Have a fun day, that was about 55 years ago.
Look guys, I have run this set-up a couple of times with a dead wall found 2 ft in. Then a nasty 1/2 rebar was used, with water jet,....no penetration. Let's be fair and assume that in a few applications there is almighty rock and such under that concrete slab. A sledgehammer driving that rebar made no difference. The method
is a good one however there are exceptions. Thank you.
Co
If you put a shut off at the end of the hose, you can turn the water off if you need to dig.
Outstanding job. Great information! I will be doing this same job in a few days under my driveway. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video. I am gonna use the technique to get some cables routed under a slab.
This was very helpful. I have to do this for my fruit trees eventually. Thank you!
Just what I needed to see! Been trying to figure out this same dilemma for years! Thx,!
A method I have used in red clay with good success is taking a piece of EMT, hammer one end close. And then beat it under the sidewalk. You can cut the closed end off with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and then you have a conduit under the sidewalk
No No No!!!! EMT conduit is not permitted by code for direct burial / contact with earth. It will rot away and possibly cause damage to the conductors within it.
If you are considering using it as a boring tool and casing which will then have a pvc or approved direct bury pipe within it, then have at it.
@@NoFreeSpeechLeftHere This has nothing to do with code, no electrical cable used. He was running an opening for irrigation tubing.
You could take a hack saw and cut the push end so it almost has teeth to help cut when you rotate your pipe. Act like a cutter. Just a thought. Great idea!!
I would think if you have a concern about caverning, that you could drill holes every so couple of feet across the driveway after snapping a chalk line, and inject with concrete from a commercial chalking gun, or with some kind of industrial Great Stuff foam type filler. Then just patch the holes to match driveway.
That is cool. Nice work. I like this and will try on my driveway and back patio. Great!!
Excellent how-to! Thanx! I wonder if I were to cut a couple V notches in the end of the pipe if it would help cut stubborn dirt while having to twist the “bit”.
Great video! Thanks! I wonder if cutting off the front end of the pipe at an angle would help it dig its way through - by turning the pipe...
Just an angle wouldn't so much because the water pressure would be going out that cut and you want all the water pressure going forward to bore the hole out. Making a few V cuts on the end to create pointed teeth like a hole saw bit really helps when you twist it as you're going in.
Much easier .. Before I put in my driveway I put two 1 inch pipes across & sealed each end so will have no problem if I need to install a substitute electricity or water across the finished area..
This guy is a genius. Water saves the day. Again.
Looks like a awesome way to get the water over. I’m sure I’ll be using this trick. Thanks.
Great job. Now I wanna try it. I need a project.
Wow!!! It's a great idea, very easy and stress less. If I have this issue at my new home definitely will try this.
That went real well I was sitting here watching and just cringing as you got near through. I could see you getting real close and was hoping that last bit didn't suddenly go easy and make you hit the edge of that concrete hard with your hand, and take a good chunk of skin off. luckily it didn't you kept your skin and didn't have to edit some kinda interesting words out to L.O.L. Thanks for sharing and take care.
Hahaha, Yeah I can band myself up pretty good on some of the projects. My hands paid for it on the backhoe transmission for sure. I Appreciate the view. Thanks.
Put a nozzle on the front end to increase the jet pressure. They actually sell a kit for this. I have done this a few times for electrical pipe.
Thank you! I've been trying to figure out a way to get a wire under my asphalt driveway for a pet containment system. This will look prettier than me cutting a line across my driveway and filling it with caulk!
you can buy asphalt by the bag if you ever need it.
This is my second viewing of this procedure, just making sure of what to get for the rig. Our driveway is made up of pavers and I’m not sure I will have to bore beneath them. The last thing I want is to NOT be deep enough and have the pavers sink where the new pipe is! I will let you know how this works out sir.
This worked for me...I took a break about midstream and went into the house to fix me a Peanut butter and jelly sandwich, and a medium
glass of cold milk. I had so much energy to finish the job. So your supplies consist of 1 pipe, one fitting, one coupling, and 1 jar of peanut butter , jelly, loaf of bread, on knife, Milk.
Cut out a straight section of your driveway to run a pvc pipe like how you ran yours. Removed the dirt and lay the pipe. Replace the dirt you would have taken out then lay new concrete to fill in the driveway. I would assume that would be better so you don't end up with a crack from lack of support.
Beautiful. I need to do a drain of my gutters under a 3 foot walkway. Concrete. Might just do without pressure wash
Wow
Class trick so easy I'm definitely trying it out great video
I'm an electrician I've done a bunch of times it's better to put a three-quarter male PVC fitting on the end put a high-pressure hose end on the end and it goes through much faster the trick is try to keep your PVC and up high toward the concrete otherwise it'll go down down down you'll have to dig deeper to get it
our soils in the NE region are a bit heavier and rocky than yours.
we have a slip on bit for our pipes that has a series of small teeth in
the lead edge. they bite into and move the wet muck a bit better than
a smooth lead PVC pipe end.
Outstanding video and presentation. Thanks 👍
One of those, why didn't we think of this before the driveway was poured, things.
We used pressure washer to do that in less than 2 minutes I think. But it was much shorter than that and we just drilled with pressure washer from both sides...
That was cool to watch. Comcast sent a drilling company out to my house. They had a big ass machine with a long drill bit to go under my 2 car driveway to put a single cable wire (no conduit) to my house from the main source by the street. I thought that was cool. This was much cooler and quicker. I'm not sure how well this method would work for me as my soil is pretty much clay (Indiana). It's difficult to dig even small holes in my dirt. But I wondered how this method would impact driveway cracking later on? Or does the dirt wrap around that conduit nice and snug? Thanks.
That only works if you have sandy, soft soil. Try doing that in clay or rocky soil and you will be out of luck. When I worked for the cable company we used Pneumatic "moles" to bore under driveways and roads.
It sounds like hes in FL. This may not works without jets with rocky shale soil like we have in East TN
How about crimping the end of a copper tube and drive it thru with a hammer? works under sidewalks
I'm just trying to open up some water drainage where my concrete driveway impedes it. My driveway is 8 ft wide. This seems like the way to go. But I have to dig a path for the hose water to drain off. Thought I'd need a pump. Your system is much easier. Thanks!
That is a trick I was taught by my step-dad back in the early 1960s.
I used water to drive 3, 1/2 dia x 4 foot copper pipes into the ground for grounding rods. No more lightning strikes on my home power since.
Yeah, I would like to see him try that with the gumbo mud down here in SE Texas.
Yeah, I live in Lumberton. And if you got to dig more than 6 inches deep. You better get a jackhammer 😂
I think he's doing his personal home! This is an OPTION not a guarantee. Maybe you need to call someone vs trying his way,,,,,ya THINK!!!
@@darenwinckler7027 l my moo moo moo in p mm,, no
Good idea. Seems it might be easier if you chopped a “kings crown” into the tip to be able to twist and shout (humor) to grind when needed to be cut off clean after penetration completion. Also, stay well below stones. Tree roots are also a problem in some locations.
I was thinking same thing, like a hole saw bit.
Whenever I used this method, I put a nozzle on the business end and turned the water on full. One wants to maximize the hydraulic horsepower at the tip. Still not a bad job.
A variant to "saintnash's" comment that will dramatically improve jetting speed and further reduce caverning is the addition of a 3" - 4" long bolt protruding from the jetting cap. It doesn't even need to be ground to a point. Just center drill an appropriate size hole in the cap and affix a 1/4 or 3/8" bolt with a nut. The bolt will displace earth like warm butter! I would also make sure those jetting holes are small. Like 1/8" dia max! The less earth you can disturb the better. Even with these mods I agree with FortunaZKat's method for being the least prone to creating a crack zone. Wakodahatchee Chris
That worked pretty good. Fast and just what you need. !:- )
Seems like a great idea, going to try it under my sidewalk to run pvc/electrical from house to garage.
This is a great idea! It solves a problem that I have of how to run a line under a sidewalk in my yard. However, I am curious whether a crack developed in the slab over the length of the pipe that you installed under that driveway? Do you have any updates?
No cracks to this point.
I have done the same thing many times except once inserted I turn the water all the way up and I use a high pressure nozzle at the end it goes much faster and a lot less labor
My dog doesn't have a chance now.....I'll get that electric fence under that sidewalk now!
Great video! I'm going to try it this weekend. Thanks!
Wow thank you man that is an awesome idea very innovative of you
Yes sir, thank you for sharing and God bless you as well!
This is so clever! Thanks for sharing. Was about to give up on my plans!
I’d be curious to know how this would work in a Northern climate. It’s possible that the void left will fill up with water and expand in a freeze and crack the concrete. I’ve seen pvc drain pipes plug up, fill with water and freeze and crack concrete.
A vacuum is your best friend up North. An air purge is better if you have that available.
I was trying to figure out a way to get a cat 5 cable underneath to get to my shop. This will work.
If your concrete driveway was done right with control scoring, joints, and steel there shouldnt be a problem. It can be done right with little washout.