I'm unlikely to confuse filament.......except I have nylon and PP that look basically the same. But PP has a distinct texture. I mostly use PLA. I only have clear, purple, and khaki PETG. My TPU is a very distinct purple.
Good info on the Qidi Q1 Pro. I'm on the edge of pulling the trigger on one, I would never have thought of the problems being a bad input device. (Note: I haven't zero 3D printing experience.)
12:00 we dont know which firmware that guy is running, this could be an old version that doesnt have the thermal model yet and the regular thermal runaway protection needs some time to kick in meanwhile the heater will be glowing red hot in seconds when not in the heaterblock.
10:25 teaching tech did a video on this where the printer is saving the state of the print to the SD card. And that is why some machines pause when printing because they are waiting to write the data to the SD card.
this tortures the SD card with write cycles...makes them wear quickly....i just watched a vid where they had a small microcontroller powered by a cap to write some kind of blackout-logs. i was thinking about the 3dp issue while watching that.
It's fine when they allow you to turn it off, but a lot of machines including Creality ones that I've worked on don't add a menu option to disable the PLR function, on my own machines I disable it in the firmware, for firmwares I have created for others I include the PLR function but always off by default with a menu option to turn it on.
1:33 ouch. Made a similar mistake by loading in what I thought was PLA but was PETG. Had just done an e-steps calibration so was just a benchy with default profile as a test print. Print completed fine but a little under extruded so initially I thought I had messed up e steps calculation. However believing it was a PLA print was printing onto smooth PEI plate instead of textured side. Trouble appeared when I tried to remove the little benchy sat proudly welded in the dead centre of the plate. No amount of bending the flex plate would release the benchy with the print eventually splitting from its first few layers. Further attempts to remove the lower layers resulted in a nice hull shaped hole in the PEI I now keep PETG in resealable bags as an extra “are you sure” reminder and move test/calibration prints near to edge of build plate just in case. Can kind of position around a hole in the PEI a bit easier if it’s near an edge.
@@3DMusketeers was a fairly new build plate too. Removed the PEI sticker and use that one with painters tape when testing filaments in not sure might stick too well.
11:02 this is not correct, If its an F Plug like in Germany, it can be live on 230V permanently! Depending on how the olug is inserted in the socket! As the SSR only switch one leg.
Ive never had much luck with PETG. Every time ive used it ive found PLA+ to be stronger. I have a roll of PET-CF which ive yet to try from bambu though. Also im not a fan of the shiny finish from PETG it makes stuff look bad.
Its major claim to fame is temperature tolerance: you can leave a PETG print in the car in the summer and it won't melt on you; PLA will soften and deform. When cold, PLA+ can be stronger than PETG; and is noticeably more rigid.
Great video! What are you thoughts on BambuLabs discounting the A1 Mini? Making an effort to rid of what’s in stock before they promote the new A1(V2) new machine? 😮
Huh... My Q1 is currently printing from a file sent via WiFi (and I'm watching it in the corner of my screen, thanks to the built in camera). I haven't even plugged in the USB thumb drive... but yeah, it looks kinda sketch. Dunno why they wouldn't just grab a name-brand one though, they're not expensive and having printer failures in the field (and the associated support calls) is probably costing them more than the expense of just having gone with something reliable in the first place.
@@3DMusketeers It's false economy. Providing support for a flaky USB stick costs them money, and they loose sales from getting a reputation for unreliable printers, when in fact it's an unreliable USB stick.
I saw an interesting one this week. Someone changed their prusa (mk3s+ or there abouts) hot end. The benchy looked like crap. I'm like......that looks like it's doubly over extruded. I asked him what his EM in PS and the flow on the printer were. 1 and 0.95 respectively. Said I said it looked like double, he adjusted the flow down to 0.5. Said it looked perfect. I have absolutely no idea why that happened, but it was interesting.
You SHOULD be printing parts for your printer. If you have a printer with printed parts or parts that can be replaced with printed parts, you should be keeping a spare set of parts, especially if you only have one 3D printer.
Yes and no. I know I have a warped bed on all my printers…I would not print anything that affects tolerance. People typically don’t know how much adjustment bed probes make on prints. I printed a bed spanning part that was several millimeters uneven end to end.
I have, non standard additions, my SV07 has a lazy print head cable that will a] lay down on the bed and sometimes gets caught on parts b] once the z got more than 50mm high, the hot end temp probe would go wonky and shut down the print, cable issue, not on the hot end power feeds, but on the temp probe simple fix, printed a table attached to the back of the main cooling fan for the cable to rest on
Id argue that any experienced 3d printing person just touching the filament can tell you what material it is. Being a metal fabricator i can do this for metals too. My eye ball can even measure material thickness within .015" this is from 15 years of being around the stuff and knowing the nominal thicknesses. Just the difference in flow is huge between PETG and PLA. The smell of PLA and no smell with PETG i don't see myself ever getting them confused.
prusa lost the plot. sad. they did great things. but the XL is ridiculous. same for e3d. revo is nonsense. see the price-drop. nobody buys that. theres no reason to.
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That Prusa XL was jealous of how much poop the Bambu Lab machines produce, so it had to show them up with a bigger dump.
ha ha ha ha
Thanks for the focus on security. That is super helpful for all of us.
try my best!
Prusa's live chat would be quicker if it weren't clogged up by people who changed all the printed parts for funsies 😂
lol
I'm unlikely to confuse filament.......except I have nylon and PP that look basically the same. But PP has a distinct texture. I mostly use PLA. I only have clear, purple, and khaki PETG. My TPU is a very distinct purple.
in a rush I can see it happening to people lol
Good info on the Qidi Q1 Pro. I'm on the edge of pulling the trigger on one, I would never have thought of the problems being a bad input device. (Note: I haven't zero 3D printing experience.)
yeah, companies try and cut corners where they can..
12:00 we dont know which firmware that guy is running, this could be an old version that doesnt have the thermal model yet and the regular thermal runaway protection needs some time to kick in meanwhile the heater will be glowing red hot in seconds when not in the heaterblock.
you know, thats a good point..
10:25 teaching tech did a video on this where the printer is saving the state of the print to the SD card. And that is why some machines pause when printing because they are waiting to write the data to the SD card.
this tortures the SD card with write cycles...makes them wear quickly....i just watched a vid where they had a small microcontroller powered by a cap to write some kind of blackout-logs. i was thinking about the 3dp issue while watching that.
yep, common on machines with cheaper boards with little buffer.
It's fine when they allow you to turn it off, but a lot of machines including Creality ones that I've worked on don't add a menu option to disable the PLR function, on my own machines I disable it in the firmware, for firmwares I have created for others I include the PLR function but always off by default with a menu option to turn it on.
1:33 ouch. Made a similar mistake by loading in what I thought was PLA but was PETG. Had just done an e-steps calibration so was just a benchy with default profile as a test print. Print completed fine but a little under extruded so initially I thought I had messed up e steps calculation.
However believing it was a PLA print was printing onto smooth PEI plate instead of textured side. Trouble appeared when I tried to remove the little benchy sat proudly welded in the dead centre of the plate. No amount of bending the flex plate would release the benchy with the print eventually splitting from its first few layers. Further attempts to remove the lower layers resulted in a nice hull shaped hole in the PEI
I now keep PETG in resealable bags as an extra “are you sure” reminder and move test/calibration prints near to edge of build plate just in case. Can kind of position around a hole in the PEI a bit easier if it’s near an edge.
oh no, that poor pei :(
@@3DMusketeers was a fairly new build plate too. Removed the PEI sticker and use that one with painters tape when testing filaments in not sure might stick too well.
11:02 this is not correct,
If its an F Plug like in Germany, it can be live on 230V permanently!
Depending on how the olug is inserted in the socket!
As the SSR only switch one leg.
Of course, I only understand it for my country, so yes, outside the US it may be different.
Ive never had much luck with PETG. Every time ive used it ive found PLA+ to be stronger. I have a roll of PET-CF which ive yet to try from bambu though. Also im not a fan of the shiny finish from PETG it makes stuff look bad.
Its major claim to fame is temperature tolerance: you can leave a PETG print in the car in the summer and it won't melt on you; PLA will soften and deform. When cold, PLA+ can be stronger than PETG; and is noticeably more rigid.
you can print PETG a bit colder to get it away from the shiny, for whatever that is worth to you
Came to see Victoria. She didn't appear. Disappointed. 😞
Sorry :(
That bad drive, ever test it in H2testw?
No, but I should..
Great video! What are you thoughts on BambuLabs discounting the A1 Mini? Making an effort to rid of what’s in stock before they promote the new A1(V2) new machine? 😮
I dont really care honestly. I wont recommend their printers due to their data collection and complete lying about it publicly in their blog post
I paint the edges of my PLA spools purple petg gets red and everything else is unpainted
thats smart.. I should look at a system like this
Huh... My Q1 is currently printing from a file sent via WiFi (and I'm watching it in the corner of my screen, thanks to the built in camera). I haven't even plugged in the USB thumb drive... but yeah, it looks kinda sketch. Dunno why they wouldn't just grab a name-brand one though, they're not expensive and having printer failures in the field (and the associated support calls) is probably costing them more than the expense of just having gone with something reliable in the first place.
yeah, no wifi here for that kind of thing. And why wouldnt they? maybe its $1 more that they could keep as profit. Machine profits are low as it is
@@3DMusketeers It's false economy. Providing support for a flaky USB stick costs them money, and they loose sales from getting a reputation for unreliable printers, when in fact it's an unreliable USB stick.
this is true..
I saw an interesting one this week. Someone changed their prusa (mk3s+ or there abouts) hot end. The benchy looked like crap. I'm like......that looks like it's doubly over extruded. I asked him what his EM in PS and the flow on the printer were. 1 and 0.95 respectively. Said I said it looked like double, he adjusted the flow down to 0.5. Said it looked perfect. I have absolutely no idea why that happened, but it was interesting.
wonder if they changed the motor as well and now the steps/mm are different
@@3DMusketeers they made it sound like it was just the hot end.
You SHOULD be printing parts for your printer. If you have a printer with printed parts or parts that can be replaced with printed parts, you should be keeping a spare set of parts, especially if you only have one 3D printer.
Yes and no. I know I have a warped bed on all my printers…I would not print anything that affects tolerance. People typically don’t know how much adjustment bed probes make on prints. I printed a bed spanning part that was several millimeters uneven end to end.
But when you go ABS/ASA and the parts arent designed for it, things can happen. Thankfully this wasnt a parts issue, and actually an alignment issue.
I have, non standard additions,
my SV07 has a lazy print head cable that will a] lay down on the bed and sometimes gets caught on parts
b] once the z got more than 50mm high, the hot end temp probe would go wonky and shut down the print, cable issue, not on the hot end power feeds, but on the temp probe
simple fix, printed a table attached to the back of the main cooling fan for the cable to rest on
ohhhhh yeah I saw that bad layer.
yeahhhhhhhhhh
Don't lick your PSU
no, please dont
Id argue that any experienced 3d printing person just touching the filament can tell you what material it is. Being a metal fabricator i can do this for metals too. My eye ball can even measure material thickness within .015" this is from 15 years of being around the stuff and knowing the nominal thicknesses. Just the difference in flow is huge between PETG and PLA. The smell of PLA and no smell with PETG i don't see myself ever getting them confused.
eh, there are definitely times where touching it is not enough.
prusa lost the plot. sad. they did great things. but the XL is ridiculous. same for e3d. revo is nonsense. see the price-drop. nobody buys that. theres no reason to.
I will agree to disagree there..