Thank you thank you. I’m about to make a big change towards my future and was researching living full time in camper. I was mostly concerned with insulating camper to make that a feasible option. I know I can gut the interior at some point and beef that up but knowing what you can to the underbelly has given me a piece of the puzzle I didn’t have. You’re a Godsend!
Great job with this video. I really appreciate the time that you took to document and video the project. Very helpful for those of us who are looking to install underbellies on our RVs. You are creating great memories for your kids that will last forever. God Bless you.
THAT. LOOKS. SO. GOOD. the clean professional solid color even going over the heat stuff with black paint. Classiest job I've seen so far in my research on you tube. Can't wait to see skirting. Everything so far for skirting diy videos looks trashy. Please don't disappoint. Great job!
Nice job! I would add a couple of suggestions from my own experience of crawling around under a trailer. I would stuff steel wool into those underbelly penetrations before spraying in the foam to prevent rodents from chewing their way into those areas. You could use mesh as well. Also I would wear a mask while spraying that glue onto to the coroplast.
Those are both really great suggestions! I wish I would have thought about using the steel wool! I should have known better about not wearing a respirator.
I've been wanting to do something like this to my trailer for some time. Thanks for the list of materials and for having a how to video. Prob a better job than most trailer manufacturers do. Cheers!
Thanks, glad it could help. It's a fairly easy job and only gets easier if you have someone to help out. Obviously when it comes to the insulation, choose what works best for your needs and budget. Also consider looking into adding heat pads to your water tanks and pipes if planning to use in any serious cold weather.
Thank you for all the help in your video!!! My husband and I are camping virgins and bought a toy hauler from a couple that was infested with bugs. After 6 weeks we are still bombing in our house, garage, cars and toy hauler. We don't even know what we are doing and can't get in there to clean and educate until the bugs are gone. The slide out has water damage on the wood underneath the underbelly. There is also water damaged wood on the inside under the sink. We started by tearing off the flooring on the inside to get rid of the bugs and that's when we discovered the rotted wood. Then when I was underneath the slideout taking pictures I looked at the underbelly and it was falling down in places. So just out of common sense I told my husband before we bomb again we need to secure the under belly just because it needed to be done and the other reason was to make sure when we are bombing that the bugs stay in there and die not run out into our garage/house. We are dealing with fleas and have 6 pets. All pets get treated regularly but we thought we had bed bugs. They are close in nature and productivity. All I can say is it has been a nightmare. Sorry for the long comment. Any suggestions or help in accordance of action would be greatly appreciated!!! Keep making videos! You really helped us!!!
Sounds like ya’ll have a big project ahead of you, just tackle one project/section at a time and I’m sure it’ll be done before you know it. I wish I had a fix for your bug issue, but the only thing I’ve had to deal with is ants. Ants are a simple fix, remove any food and then simple spray ant killer along the areas of ant travel. Good luck on your project!
Had not watched pat 1 all the way and then sa the link to this one at the end.. I really appreciate what you have done and it gives me a lot more confidence in working on the bottom side of my Imagine. Thanks a lot.
Thank you again! It was an easy project. The hardest part was having to drill into the frame while working against gravity, haha! If I had a second person and wasn’t documenting everything for a video, it probably could of been done in a weekends time.
Such an awesome video! Thank you so much. I'll be travelling full time with my two kids for a couple years and am doing a few diy insulation jobs to keep is comfortable in our Canadian winters!
Glad the video could help! Awesome to hear you're going full time with your kids! I wish I was able to with my boys. As far as the install goes... Just please note that the materials (insulation) I used were designed to extend my cold weather season, not to handle Canadian winters all season. I'm sure you realizes this, but just wanted to say it. I'd highly recommend going with heat pads on your tanks and plumbing as well as a more heavy duty insulation. I'd also recommend a heated water hose and skirting for the camper during those seriously cold winter days. Good luck and Happy camping!
Thanks for the video, particularly the materials list in video 1. I have a small toy hauler and plan on insulating the bottom along with tank heaters for those winter trips. This helps a lot with the project.
Great idea and good job. Probably too late now, but I would have put heater pads on the tanks and filled the void between the underside of the floor and the plastic board with more insulation, fiber glass batts would work. But good video and good job. Thanks for sharing.
rscar99 Thank you! Also thank you for adding the suggestions. At the time I was on a really tight budget and was wanting to have it done before fall/winter started. Looking back now I should of went ahead and added the heating pads. Hopefully though if people are looking to do this and see this video, they will read the comments as well realizing that heating pads are worth adding.
YOU SHOULD BE WEARING SAFETY GLASSES WHILE USEING A DRILL AND / OR WORKING UNDERNEATH A VEHICLE!!! Looks good! I was very Happy to hear you mention shingling the panels, that is a must. On the areas, where you had to splice a section of the corplas together, I would have used either a piece of aluminum flat bar stock or piece of corplas to reinforce seam. On the long seam towards the front of the rv, it looks to be sagging quit a bit. I would use a section of aluminum angle, on the top side, to eliminate the sag. also the next time you pull a section down, I would also seal the open ends of the panels with heater duct tape, to prevent water infiltration of the panel's core. Looks to be a great upgrade for your comfort inside during cooler weather. Shouldn't hurt the fuel economy either.
Hey lost Texan, really enjoyed your installation videos. Smart of you to start in the back and overlap going with the wind. Just as an FYI, I think using a floor jack with a 2’ square board mounted to the jack would have helped you out quite a bit holding the larger pieces up. Thinking like a drywall installer putting up ceilings. No I am not one, just seen it done a few times. Just my opinion. Thanks again for documenting.
Some great pointers -- I never would have thought about removing the stabilizer jacks! And undoing the propane lines is clever -- I was wondering how I could deal with the lines coming through the foam panels. If you plan to do a lot of cold weather camping, I'd recommend Ultra Heat heat cable on the thin line running from the fresh water tank to the interior of the trailer -- that line is the item most likely to freeze. The Ultra Heat cable does not draw a lot of current. Thanks again for these excellent videos.
Fantastic job! Well planned and well executed. Do you build cabinets? Your attention to detail suggests that you do! I think it came out AFTER you finished your project, but Great Stuff has a denser foam for large ( up to 3 inches) gaps. It is less "runny".
Thank you! No sir, not a cabinet maker. Just a guy hoping to not make too many mistakes while making video about something I'd never done before. Haha!
@@warrenlange6106 if there was enough to sandwich between the jacks then yes I put it between. If it wasn’t enough to really put between then I just trimmed around.
Thank you for the video. I am getting ready to tackle this project as I just lost the front part of mine on I-70. Evidently Camping World (I know - won’t go there again) does not properly reattach this when doing warranty work. I do appreciate the video though, it will definitely make my job easier!
Isn't the two little drains are your what they call low spot drain to drain water before you put antifreeze in your lines also to flush out the antifreeze? Your hot water pressure release come out from the hot water tank its self.
I used to swim noodles around all my wiring and my propane hoses how do you think that will work I'm also the one who put the foil side of foam wrong I hadn't watched any videos there's something I wanted to do now wishing I had watched your videos
I think it would be so much easier to call a spray insulation company and just have them coat the underside for you. Find out where they are spraying a house and go to them and tell them where to spray. I can’t imagine that costing very much. If it’s cheap, even if it wasn’t permanent, you could have it retreated every 2-3 years.
Hi Great job! I also have a 18TO and I'm wondering if the queen bed area is any warmer after you completed the job. At present, my queen bed gets to about 55 degrees when its freezing outside and its way too cold to sleep on without a good sleeping bag. I now have electric bed heaters, but this idea may work as well..
Sadly I can't give numbers as I didn't test the temperature before and after (I really wished I had). I only had one camping trip after it was installed before I traded it in for a larger trailer. Obviously any additional barrier between you and the outside temps is going to improve the warmth inside. I just can't say by how much. It's a low cost option, but it does require a moderate amount of labor so you have to decide if it's worth it.
Great video!! I need to replace my underbelly on my Holiday Rambler. My trailer is 30'. Where did you purchase your materials? could you give a list please. Thanks
I put a list of material on part 1 video. I purchased everything except the coroplast from Home Depot/Lowe’s. I purchased the coroplast from Fastsigns (nationwide).
Fine job! I had been considering this protection after we decided to camp in the winter months. I had no idea there was any videos to help me get this accomplished. I too, have a TT that came without this installed. Appreciate the help with what materials to look for. One question. What are you using as a heat source? Forced air or heat strips/pads of some kind? Thanks from Wayne in Tennessee.
Thanks! Glad it could help. As far as a heat source added, I didn't install any heat source to the actual tanks, but would recommend getting the heat pads if you don't have a direct ducting heat source (furnace) and planned to camp in freezing or below freezing temps. I know etrailer has them for a decent price. We took our camper out once with cold temps dipping into the 30's at night and had no issues with anything freezing up just using the campers cabinet vented 15k furnace.
@@thelosttexan1912 Thanks for the video. I just installed the heat pads last weekend, and I found that RVUpgradeStore.com has more selection and better pricing than etrailer. I went with a mixure of UltraHeat and ThermaHeat (AKA Lasalle Bristol) pads, elbows, and pipe heaters. Great video! I think with your help I'll be able to tackle this next part of the job.
Glad the video could help and thank you for posting where you purchased your heat pads from. I know people who read through the comments will appreciate it!
Did you seal your propane lines too? I would have left them outside. This could be very dangerous. If you develop a leak it will fill that cavity and blow up! If it is outside and leaks it blows away instead of pooling in a container. With the rumble of the road you are asking for leaks in pipe fittings. Just be careful and something to think about. One day you could have a bomb in your underbelly waiting for a spark if you get a leak. Worst part is you might not smell it with all the sealing you've done. Otherwise, great job!!
Chris Kenniburg, I’m not sure I’m understanding your question. The propane lines run along the outside of the trailer until they are required to go up into the trailer for the heater/stove/refrigerator. All manufacturers that I have seen fill in the gaps around the lines where the propane line enters through the underbelly protection/insulation. If you’re referring to the section of the line that I disconnected to allow the install of the underbelly material, then yes I resealed it with Teflon tape and also know that connection is on the outside of the underbelly protection. I hope this helped answer your question. Thanks again!
@@thelosttexan1912 Is the propane line above or below your bottom cover? That is the issue. I don't have my camper at home but I am almost positive the propane hoses are visible from below the camper and not hidden within the underbelly. They have a hole punched in and go up to the stove and fridge but the main lines are all visible from the outside. We all know how water connections come loose because of the bouncing around going down the road. If that happens to your propane line and it is sealed within your underbelly the fumes and propane will build up and fill the underbelly. One spark and boom!!!! If they are run on the outside and exposed then the propane blows away and you are left with an empty tank which is a much better outcome.
Chris Kenniburg Yes, they are on the outside as you can see in the video. The main line on this trailer goes along the passenger side (door side). The only point at where the lines enter inside the insulation/trailer are at the points of the heater/stove areas (through a drilled hole). No boom happening with this trailer (or less likely).
From everything I’ve read it does. BUT depending on the insulation in the walls and roof will also play into it as well. If you don’t have a barrier between the outside elements and your plumbing then your gonna have a hard time keeping yourself warm or stuff from freezing.
One of these things are not like the others, three of these things are kinda the same. Great work, I am doing this on my cargo conversion but up in canada. I suppose you could say I am keeping the heat in while you try to keep it out.
Charlene Ware Thank you for the kind words and I’m glad the videos could help answer some of your questions. We took the trailer out on a camping trip that was about 2 1/2 hours away on Washington highways and it held up great. During the our stay, temps dipped into the 30’s at night with zero effects on the tanks.
@@thelosttexan1912 Great news! We are prepping our Gretchen for a long stay in Alaska!! Any extra insulation without adding too much weight will help!!
Charlene Ware That’s awesome! I’m jealous, I hope to one day visit Alaska. I would highly recommend electric heat pads for your tanks and grey/black plumbing. You can find them online (etrailer, etc) for decent prices and it isn’t too complicated to connect to your battery. I’d also look into some sort of skirt system for your RV and a heated water hose (or heat cord to wrap around a water hose).
Thanks, I ended up trading the trailer in for larger trailer back at the end of 2018. It worked as intended up to that point though. But, unfortunately I can't speak on it's durability over a long period of time. Screws/washers used: Everbilt - #12 x 1-1/2 self drilling roofing screws Everbilt - washers 1/4 x 1-1/4
Charlotte Johnson Yes ma’am, I waited until I was completely done with the rest before trimming and painting. Sorry I didn’t explain that in the first video.
The Lost Texan it’s on me. I should have waited until after watching before commenting. Great job. I’m building a motor home out of a transport bus and you gave me a great idea on how to insulate under my floor and quite the motor noise. Thank you for the video.
We were able to take it camping after installing the underbelly protection and while the temperatures were not freezing, they did dip into the 30"s. We had zero issues with it. We no longer own this trailer though. But like I have told others, If you plan to camp in winter (freezing temps). I recommend that you add heat pads to the tanks and piping.
@@thelosttexan1912 yes I seen them pads I spent last winter in Ruidoso nm , first and last time hopefully that things froze I won't let that happen again , thanks for the reply.
Thank you thank you. I’m about to make a big change towards my future and was researching living full time in camper. I was mostly concerned with insulating camper to make that a feasible option. I know I can gut the interior at some point and beef that up but knowing what you can to the underbelly has given me a piece of the puzzle I didn’t have. You’re a Godsend!
Great job with this video. I really appreciate the time that you took to document and video the project. Very helpful for those of us who are looking to install underbellies on our RVs. You are creating great memories for your kids that will last forever. God Bless you.
THAT. LOOKS. SO. GOOD. the clean professional solid color even going over the heat stuff with black paint. Classiest job I've seen so far in my research on you tube. Can't wait to see skirting. Everything so far for skirting diy videos looks trashy. Please don't disappoint. Great job!
Thank you!
Great job tucking around the propane lines. Thanks for sharing.
Nice job! I would add a couple of suggestions from my own experience of crawling around under a trailer. I would stuff steel wool into those underbelly penetrations before spraying in the foam to prevent rodents from chewing their way into those areas. You could use mesh as well. Also I would wear a mask while spraying that glue onto to the coroplast.
Those are both really great suggestions! I wish I would have thought about using the steel wool! I should have known better about not wearing a respirator.
Great job! I seen the back of the Pontiac and the top of what looked like a 60s chevy ? Nice.
I've been wanting to do something like this to my trailer for some time. Thanks for the list of materials and for having a how to video. Prob a better job than most trailer manufacturers do. Cheers!
Thanks, glad it could help. It's a fairly easy job and only gets easier if you have someone to help out. Obviously when it comes to the insulation, choose what works best for your needs and budget. Also consider looking into adding heat pads to your water tanks and pipes if planning to use in any serious cold weather.
Thank you for all the help in your video!!! My husband and I are camping virgins and bought a toy hauler from a couple that was infested with bugs. After 6 weeks we are still bombing in our house, garage, cars and toy hauler. We don't even know what we are doing and can't get in there to clean and educate until the bugs are gone. The slide out has water damage on the wood underneath the underbelly. There is also water damaged wood on the inside under the sink. We started by tearing off the flooring on the inside to get rid of the bugs and that's when we discovered the rotted wood. Then when I was underneath the slideout taking pictures I looked at the underbelly and it was falling down in places. So just out of common sense I told my husband before we bomb again we need to secure the under belly just because it needed to be done and the other reason was to make sure when we are bombing that the bugs stay in there and die not run out into our garage/house. We are dealing with fleas and have 6 pets. All pets get treated regularly but we thought we had bed bugs. They are close in nature and productivity. All I can say is it has been a nightmare. Sorry for the long comment. Any suggestions or help in accordance of action would be greatly appreciated!!! Keep making videos! You really helped us!!!
Sounds like ya’ll have a big project ahead of you, just tackle one project/section at a time and I’m sure it’ll be done before you know it. I wish I had a fix for your bug issue, but the only thing I’ve had to deal with is ants. Ants are a simple fix, remove any food and then simple spray ant killer along the areas of ant travel. Good luck on your project!
Had not watched pat 1 all the way and then sa the link to this one at the end.. I really appreciate what you have done and it gives me a lot more confidence in working on the bottom side of my Imagine. Thanks a lot.
Thank you again! It was an easy project. The hardest part was having to drill into the frame while working against gravity, haha! If I had a second person and wasn’t documenting everything for a video, it probably could of been done in a weekends time.
Awesome job, exactly the demo I've been looking for!! Great job!! Keep doing videos you are very good at explaining things.
Jean Renn thank you! I always feel like I’m leaving stuff out.
Gonna steal ur idea… I like it!!!
Such an awesome video! Thank you so much. I'll be travelling full time with my two kids for a couple years and am doing a few diy insulation jobs to keep is comfortable in our Canadian winters!
Glad the video could help! Awesome to hear you're going full time with your kids! I wish I was able to with my boys. As far as the install goes... Just please note that the materials (insulation) I used were designed to extend my cold weather season, not to handle Canadian winters all season. I'm sure you realizes this, but just wanted to say it. I'd highly recommend going with heat pads on your tanks and plumbing as well as a more heavy duty insulation. I'd also recommend a heated water hose and skirting for the camper during those seriously cold winter days. Good luck and Happy camping!
Thanks for the video, particularly the materials list in video 1. I have a small toy hauler and plan on insulating the bottom along with tank heaters for those winter trips. This helps a lot with the project.
Roger Hundley thank you! I’m glad it’s helpful.
Finally watched someone as twisted as I am for workmanship. Good job buddy. Enjoy. From Canada!!🍹
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for the video It's helping us insulate our fifth wheel. last night it got below 28 burrr. It makes a big difference.
Glad it helped! Enjoy your adventures!
I watched these two videos a while ago. I am going to try to do this on my fifth wheel soon so I am watching them again to prepare.
Great idea and good job. Probably too late now, but I would have put heater pads on the tanks and filled the void between the underside of the floor and the plastic board with more insulation, fiber glass batts would work. But good video and good job. Thanks for sharing.
rscar99 Thank you! Also thank you for adding the suggestions. At the time I was on a really tight budget and was wanting to have it done before fall/winter started. Looking back now I should of went ahead and added the heating pads. Hopefully though if people are looking to do this and see this video, they will read the comments as well realizing that heating pads are worth adding.
YOU SHOULD BE WEARING SAFETY GLASSES WHILE USEING A DRILL AND / OR WORKING UNDERNEATH A VEHICLE!!!
Looks good! I was very Happy to hear you mention shingling the panels, that is a must.
On the areas, where you had to splice a section of the corplas together, I would have used either a piece of aluminum flat bar stock or piece of corplas to reinforce seam. On the long seam towards the front of the rv, it looks to be sagging quit a bit. I would use a section of aluminum angle, on the top side, to eliminate the sag. also the next time you pull a section down, I would also seal the open ends of the panels with heater duct tape, to prevent water infiltration of the panel's core.
Looks to be a great upgrade for your comfort inside during cooler weather. Shouldn't hurt the fuel economy either.
You are right! I don’t know what I was thinking not wearing safety glasses. Thank you!
Hey lost Texan, really enjoyed your installation videos. Smart of you to start in the back and overlap going with the wind. Just as an FYI, I think using a floor jack with a 2’ square board mounted to the jack would have helped you out quite a bit holding the larger pieces up. Thinking like a drywall installer putting up ceilings. No I am not one, just seen it done a few times. Just my opinion.
Thanks again for documenting.
Thank you! Yeah looking back I can't believe I didn't think of that... haha! next time for sure!
Some great pointers -- I never would have thought about removing the stabilizer jacks! And undoing the propane lines is clever -- I was wondering how I could deal with the lines coming through the foam panels. If you plan to do a lot of cold weather camping, I'd recommend Ultra Heat heat cable on the thin line running from the fresh water tank to the interior of the trailer -- that line is the item most likely to freeze. The Ultra Heat cable does not draw a lot of current. Thanks again for these excellent videos.
Thank you! That's a great idea about the Ultra heat cable.
Another great video and job.
Great job, God bless you and your family.
Thank you! You too!
very helpful video's. thank you
Nice job! I will probably be doing the same thing to a 21' toy hauler very soon.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video! Please comment when you do and if you have any suggestions.
Fantastic job! Well planned and well executed. Do you build cabinets? Your attention to detail suggests that you do! I think it came out AFTER you finished your project, but Great Stuff has a denser foam for large ( up to 3 inches) gaps. It is less "runny".
Thank you! No sir, not a cabinet maker. Just a guy hoping to not make too many mistakes while making video about something I'd never done before. Haha!
that was a lot of work, and it seems to have turned out well
Wanna come do mine? Nice video. One question: Did you sandwich the core plastic between the stabilizer jacks or trimmed and sealed around them?
@@warrenlange6106 if there was enough to sandwich between the jacks then yes I put it between. If it wasn’t enough to really put between then I just trimmed around.
Very nice job looks like it also will keep it cool in summer time to thanks 😊
Good job... now I'm inspired. Thanks
Thanks! I'm glad it helped.
You did a great job!!
Thank you!!
Great Friggin Job Mate... 👍
Thanks 👍
Thank you for the video. I am getting ready to tackle this project as I just lost the front part of mine on I-70. Evidently Camping World (I know - won’t go there again) does not properly reattach this when doing warranty work. I do appreciate the video though, it will definitely make my job easier!
Glad it will help!
Thank you for your videos. I have been worried about how I would do something like that if I need to.
I’m glad the video can help if you end up doing something to the underbelly.
Isn't the two little drains are your what they call low spot drain to drain water before you put antifreeze in your lines also to flush out the antifreeze? Your hot water pressure release come out from the hot water tank its self.
Great information txs.
Hope it helps!
Just a thought won't your last piece come in before it freezes? If so this last piece might be a waste of time and effort.
I used to swim noodles around all my wiring and my propane hoses how do you think that will work I'm also the one who put the foil side of foam wrong I hadn't watched any videos there's something I wanted to do now wishing I had watched your videos
You did a great job. I have a question for you. Can you please install mine? Thanks for the video.
AWESOME JOB!!! Thanks bud.
I did this job myself last weekend and now I'm seeing your video and I see that I put my foil side wrong will it cause a problem
Great job!!
Thank you!
Very nice job.
Thank you!
Nice job. On your low point drains replace those caps with petcocksl
Blue and red ones, PVC from Hone Depot make it for fast easy dtaining
Thanks for the tip
I think it would be so much easier to call a spray insulation company and just have them coat the underside for you. Find out where they are spraying a house and go to them and tell them where to spray. I can’t imagine that costing very much. If it’s cheap, even if it wasn’t permanent, you could have it retreated every 2-3 years.
then how would you do maintenance underneath the spray?
Hi Great job! I also have a 18TO and I'm wondering if the queen bed area is any warmer after you completed the job. At present, my queen bed gets to about 55 degrees when its freezing outside and its way too cold to sleep on without a good sleeping bag. I now have electric bed heaters, but this idea may work as well..
Sadly I can't give numbers as I didn't test the temperature before and after (I really wished I had). I only had one camping trip after it was installed before I traded it in for a larger trailer. Obviously any additional barrier between you and the outside temps is going to improve the warmth inside. I just can't say by how much. It's a low cost option, but it does require a moderate amount of labor so you have to decide if it's worth it.
Great video!! I need to replace my underbelly on my Holiday Rambler. My trailer is 30'. Where did you purchase your materials? could you give a list please. Thanks
I put a list of material on part 1 video. I purchased everything except the coroplast from Home Depot/Lowe’s. I purchased the coroplast from Fastsigns (nationwide).
Fine job! I had been considering this protection after we decided to camp in the winter months. I had no idea there was any videos to help me get this accomplished. I too, have a TT that came without this installed. Appreciate the help with what materials to look for. One question. What are you using as a heat source? Forced air or heat strips/pads of some kind? Thanks from Wayne in Tennessee.
Thanks! Glad it could help. As far as a heat source added, I didn't install any heat source to the actual tanks, but would recommend getting the heat pads if you don't have a direct ducting heat source (furnace) and planned to camp in freezing or below freezing temps. I know etrailer has them for a decent price. We took our camper out once with cold temps dipping into the 30's at night and had no issues with anything freezing up just using the campers cabinet vented 15k furnace.
@@thelosttexan1912 Thanks for the video. I just installed the heat pads last weekend, and I found that RVUpgradeStore.com has more selection and better pricing than etrailer. I went with a mixure of UltraHeat and ThermaHeat (AKA Lasalle Bristol) pads, elbows, and pipe heaters.
Great video! I think with your help I'll be able to tackle this next part of the job.
Glad the video could help and thank you for posting where you purchased your heat pads from. I know people who read through the comments will appreciate it!
Did you seal your propane lines too? I would have left them outside. This could be very dangerous. If you develop a leak it will fill that cavity and blow up! If it is outside and leaks it blows away instead of pooling in a container. With the rumble of the road you are asking for leaks in pipe fittings. Just be careful and something to think about. One day you could have a bomb in your underbelly waiting for a spark if you get a leak. Worst part is you might not smell it with all the sealing you've done. Otherwise, great job!!
Chris Kenniburg, I’m not sure I’m understanding your question. The propane lines run along the outside of the trailer until they are required to go up into the trailer for the heater/stove/refrigerator. All manufacturers that I have seen fill in the gaps around the lines where the propane line enters through the underbelly protection/insulation. If you’re referring to the section of the line that I disconnected to allow the install of the underbelly material, then yes I resealed it with Teflon tape and also know that connection is on the outside of the underbelly protection. I hope this helped answer your question. Thanks again!
@@thelosttexan1912 Is the propane line above or below your bottom cover? That is the issue. I don't have my camper at home but I am almost positive the propane hoses are visible from below the camper and not hidden within the underbelly. They have a hole punched in and go up to the stove and fridge but the main lines are all visible from the outside. We all know how water connections come loose because of the bouncing around going down the road. If that happens to your propane line and it is sealed within your underbelly the fumes and propane will build up and fill the underbelly. One spark and boom!!!! If they are run on the outside and exposed then the propane blows away and you are left with an empty tank which is a much better outcome.
Chris Kenniburg Yes, they are on the outside as you can see in the video. The main line on this trailer goes along the passenger side (door side). The only point at where the lines enter inside the insulation/trailer are at the points of the heater/stove areas (through a drilled hole). No boom happening with this trailer (or less likely).
@@thelosttexan1912 Sorry. I re-watched the video and then I saw the propane line. Great job!
What did you use for straps
Would it be more efficient to put down some rubber or foam backed floor covering for the Winterseason ?
Unfortunately I don't know the answer to that.
I assume this is safe while pulling the camper as well like not coming loose
If done correctly, it should be as safe as any factory installed underbelly protection.
I began this today I got a 24 ft camper I'll just maintain the 12 to 18 inch spacing and hope for the best
Q What was the Size of your Frame depths floor to bottom
Q That was corplate
Is the underbelly of the trailer the place where most of the heat escapes?
From everything I’ve read it does. BUT depending on the insulation in the walls and roof will also play into it as well. If you don’t have a barrier between the outside elements and your plumbing then your gonna have a hard time keeping yourself warm or stuff from freezing.
And what's keeping it all from sagging
One of these things are not like the others, three of these things are kinda the same.
Great work, I am doing this on my cargo conversion but up in canada. I suppose you could say I am keeping the heat in while you try to keep it out.
Right on!
Ata your supports underneath aluminum or steel? What are the screws that your using to drill with that are going thru the metal?
I used Self drilling roof screws (about a 1”-1 1/2”) and screw them into the steel frame/cross members.
@@thelosttexan1912 thank you
Where do you find sheets of the coroplast?
@@jamieyarbrough5229 I purchased it from a sign shop.
Looks nice! How has it held up? How was the wind flow and "drop"?? Thanks again for sharing!
Charlene Ware Thank you for the kind words and I’m glad the videos could help answer some of your questions. We took the trailer out on a camping trip that was about 2 1/2 hours away on Washington highways and it held up great. During the our stay, temps dipped into the 30’s at night with zero effects on the tanks.
@@thelosttexan1912 Great news! We are prepping our Gretchen for a long stay in Alaska!! Any extra insulation without adding too much weight will help!!
Charlene Ware That’s awesome! I’m jealous, I hope to one day visit Alaska. I would highly recommend electric heat pads for your tanks and grey/black plumbing. You can find them online (etrailer, etc) for decent prices and it isn’t too complicated to connect to your battery. I’d also look into some sort of skirt system for your RV and a heated water hose (or heat cord to wrap around a water hose).
Great info, how is it holding up for you? I’m going to do this in a few weeks. What size screws did you use ?
Thanks, I ended up trading the trailer in for larger trailer back at the end of 2018. It worked as intended up to that point though. But, unfortunately I can't speak on it's durability over a long period of time.
Screws/washers used:
Everbilt - #12 x 1-1/2 self drilling roofing screws
Everbilt - washers 1/4 x 1-1/4
How far apart did you put your screws
I want to say anywhere from 12-18 inches apart in some areas and no more then 24inches apart in other areas.
Would this increase the chances of condensation and water damage?
No more then it would have, had it come from the factory like this.
Oh, you did trim. 🤗yay
Charlotte Johnson Yes ma’am, I waited until I was completely done with the rest before trimming and painting. Sorry I didn’t explain that in the first video.
The Lost Texan it’s on me. I should have waited until after watching before commenting. Great job. I’m building a motor home out of a transport bus and you gave me a great idea on how to insulate under my floor and quite the motor noise. Thank you for the video.
That was my idea! How well does it work for you?
We were able to take it camping after installing the underbelly protection and while the temperatures were not freezing, they did dip into the 30"s. We had zero issues with it. We no longer own this trailer though. But like I have told others, If you plan to camp in winter (freezing temps). I recommend that you add heat pads to the tanks and piping.
@@thelosttexan1912 yes I seen them pads I spent last winter in Ruidoso nm , first and last time hopefully that things froze I won't let that happen again , thanks for the reply.