I just found your channel and love your down-to-earth presentation, it is refreshing. It's nice that you got right to the project and showed each of your steps, it made the process easier to understand. Thank you.
I have made a few stacked text signs in the past, but your vid came up yesterday, and I had to do a new stacked text sign today, so I thought I'd try your method. It worked great, very easy to use with perfect results. Thanks for sharing this new method.
after doing stacked text items for several years now, i found your vid a bit interesting. i like the idea of beading like that, but, for the rest, what i do, is clear out the top layer, leaving the top layer of text, then the bottom layer, leaving both layers of finished text. to keep things as easy as possible, i use only a .125" diameter flat bottom mill (eliminates the multiple tool changes). doing it this way would eliminate the need to have a separate tool path for lowering the lower level text. usually my top layer is 1/8 inch deep, and the bottom layer is another 1/8 inch deep, with the final background being 1/4 inch deep. this keeps my number of passes at a minimum of 1/64 inch per pass, moving rapidly, with enough overlap to keep sanding to a minimum. last one i have done, was for the wedding of my cousin. done in walnut, as an oval, finished with boiled linseed oil, then painted the first names, first in the brightest yellow oil paint, then the brightest gold oil paint (a tip from a friend of mine, who owns a high end restoration shop out of the dc area. he said bright yellow first for a bright gold finish, and red, for a burnished gold finish). then 3 coats of clear shellac. turned out quite nice. as to hardware, and software that i use, i have an original, problem free shapeoko2, that i rebuilt into a larger area machine (still using the original spindle after several years of use), and vectric's vcarve desktop (i have found that for my needs, the pro version, and aspire, have the same level of what i need, at a greatly increased cost). what i follow, is this five step process, with only 2 layers needed. 1. Create 2 Layers (Upper and Lower). Leave both visible.2. Create your upper text on the upper layer. Create another vector as a border, one that will be large enough to encompass both the upper and lower text. At this point convert the text to curves. You can now node edit the text to eliminate loops/artifacts, and 'weld' the touching letters together (if required). Group the entire text (but not the border), and hide the upper layer.3. Create bottom text on the lower layer. Convert to curves, edit and group the entire bottom text as you did for the upper text.4. Show the upper layer, then right click on the upper text vectors and border and select the copy to lower Layer option. This will send a copy to your bottom layer for welding. Once again hide the upper layer.5. Now select both grouped words on the lower layer (but not the border), and click the "Weld Selected Vectors" button (right below the mouse pointer button on the left side under "Edit Objects").
Using you technique for text on text, I figured out how to reduce machining time by creating a rectangle that includes all of the combined text then use that rectangle as the boundary for cutting the top text pocket because most of that area had been cleared for the combined text. Does that make sense?
When entering my 56125 bit using Aspire and Amana's tool database I get a pic of another bit. Not the sharp point that a 56125 is. Trying to get an answer from Amana.
![How To Do Stacked Text / Text On Text [The Easy Way] Vectric Vcarve & Aspire - Garrett Fromme](/img/1.gif)
I’ve been trying to figure this out for years now, so happy that you have found an easier way to do it
I just found your channel and love your down-to-earth presentation, it is refreshing. It's nice that you got right to the project and showed each of your steps, it made the process easier to understand. Thank you.
I new on the block thanks for easy way of doing text on text so many youtubers need to watch and learn the way you do it thxs
I have made a few stacked text signs in the past, but your vid came up yesterday, and I had to do a new stacked text sign today, so I thought I'd try your method. It worked great, very easy to use with perfect results. Thanks for sharing this new method.
I am glad you liked it.
after doing stacked text items for several years now, i found your vid a bit interesting. i like the idea of beading like that, but, for the rest, what i do, is clear out the top layer, leaving the top layer of text, then the bottom layer, leaving both layers of finished text. to keep things as easy as possible, i use only a .125" diameter flat bottom mill (eliminates the multiple tool changes). doing it this way would eliminate the need to have a separate tool path for lowering the lower level text. usually my top layer is 1/8 inch deep, and the bottom layer is another 1/8 inch deep, with the final background being 1/4 inch deep. this keeps my number of passes at a minimum of 1/64 inch per pass, moving rapidly, with enough overlap to keep sanding to a minimum. last one i have done, was for the wedding of my cousin. done in walnut, as an oval, finished with boiled linseed oil, then painted the first names, first in the brightest yellow oil paint, then the brightest gold oil paint (a tip from a friend of mine, who owns a high end restoration shop out of the dc area. he said bright yellow first for a bright gold finish, and red, for a burnished gold finish). then 3 coats of clear shellac. turned out quite nice. as to hardware, and software that i use, i have an original, problem free shapeoko2, that i rebuilt into a larger area machine (still using the original spindle after several years of use), and vectric's vcarve desktop (i have found that for my needs, the pro version, and aspire, have the same level of what i need, at a greatly increased cost). what i follow, is this five step process, with only 2 layers needed. 1. Create 2 Layers (Upper and Lower). Leave both visible.2. Create your upper text on the upper layer. Create another vector as a border, one that will be large enough to encompass both the upper and lower text. At this point convert the text to curves. You can now node edit the text to eliminate loops/artifacts, and 'weld' the touching letters together (if required). Group the entire text (but not the border), and hide the upper layer.3. Create bottom text on the lower layer. Convert to curves, edit and group the entire bottom text as you did for the upper text.4. Show the upper layer, then right click on the upper text vectors and border and select the copy to lower Layer option. This will send a copy to your bottom layer for welding. Once again hide the upper layer.5. Now select both grouped words on the lower layer (but not the border), and click the "Weld Selected Vectors" button (right below the mouse pointer button on the left side under "Edit Objects").
Using you technique for text on text, I figured out how to reduce machining time by creating a rectangle that includes all of the combined text then use that rectangle as the boundary for cutting the top text pocket because most of that area had been cleared for the combined text. Does that make sense?
When entering my 56125 bit using Aspire and Amana's tool database I get a pic of another bit. Not the sharp point that a 56125 is. Trying to get an answer from Amana.
Is the round over bit for the frame a 56125 Amana bit? I am using Aspire, downloaded the Amana tool database and getting something different.
Yes, it's the 56125 I love this bit.
It didn't work for me so I won't subscribe
Sorry, it didn't work for you. I have another video that simplifies it a little more. ruclips.net/video/4XsKovR0YE0/видео.htmlsi=C-5JNbFak6gSfa7R