@ Javier Fauxnom I know --- simple 'n' incredibly easy to do, right??? Just like trying to reverse a huge bulky utility-trailer properly into a tight space is super-uncomplicated --- just keep backing up slowly till you hear da crunch, and then you know you've backed up far enough. :P
I mostly work with electronicals so I had never heard of one of those "stepper drill" thingys, went and bought one and it has made my life so much easier when working with metal and particularly plastics. Thanks Uncle!
I been knocking around metal shops etc since 76 but I keep coming back to AvE's channel not just for the tips I somehow never stumbled across until now, but for the new technical terms... like "thumb detector".
Another benefit of step drills is that being single flute, they hold themselves concentric and make a round hole in thin material. They also can't corkscrew themselves into the hole.
The "Times New Roman" on Chinesium is actually what happens when you write the roman alphabet with the standard *Chinese* font called Mincho. Mincho was actually developed in Japan and you do see it on '90s Japanese stuff as well but these days it's the obvious flag of a company that never bothered to design its own logotype for export markets.
Hey AvE I've been in the USAF (Aircraft Metals Tech) since 96'. We occasionally have to hand drill safety wire holes with a # 55 drill bit in the hex head of fasteners on the aircraft or in the jet shop. The way we do it is by locating the start of the hole with a punch and then drilling perpendicular as if drilling a straight hole but when we have the entire dia. of the drill bit below the the surface we then begin to slowly move the drill in the direction that you want the hole to go while continuing downward pressure. In our case it's towards the closest corner of the bolt head but the same technique works on about anything. Love your channel!
Bought my first auto center punch the other day. Went back and bought 5 more. Treat em like clamps. Can't ever have too many. Definitely life changing tool! Freaking love your videos dude!
While doing electrical work in a shop that had a dozen old screw machines noticed that they had a lot of left hand drill bits. Set up guy explained that if last operation was turning CCW they would use a left hand drill bit to save a second or two from stopping machine then changing direction. Saved them a nice piece of change while running the same piece 24 hours a day for several days.
I've been farting around in the shop for 30 years, so not a ton of new stuff here for me...but holy carp, that hole saw tip around 18:30 ! Just that one tip alone is more than worth the price of admission!
I have a construction trade ticket (electrician) and no one every showed me this stuff. Well, I figured out the hole saw trick on my own. I thought I was real clever that day; a first year teaching his newly devised trick to his journeyman. Anyways, this was hugely edifying (mostly for my home projects, but edifying none the less). Thanks!
You'll always want to use a cutting oil to preserve your tool and keep it from overheating and ruining the hardening. Especially when drilling stainless (316+ mainly) since it hardens something awful when heated.
This is just so wrong. If you are drilling a really small hole, say 0.5mm, then using oil will cause the drill to break. Instead, If you really need to cool the drill (wich you really don't) you should Instead use pure alcohol or water as it is not too viscous for the tool.
It's not "just so wrong" because you have outliers. The core statement is that you want to cool and lubricate your drilling tool to preserve it. 0,5mm holes aren't what most people drill and as such it's not the main target of a comment about using cutting oil. Yes, on very small holes you want a less viscous lubricant/coolant, though not pure water as water is worse than oil in small applications/holes.
So I apply for a job at a machine shop and they call me in for an interview. The manager says, "Where did you learn machining?" I says, "From the keenest machinist on the interwebs." He takes me into the shop to test my knowledge, starts pointing at tools and asking me what they're called. I says, "That's an high-powered thumb detector. That's a set of Chinesium nut huggers. That's a hand held hole plunger, and that big one over there is the chief chooch-o-matic." He says, "Don't call us. We'll call you." I says, "Keep your dick in a vice." He says, "Security!"
Hey on the metal drilling I recently had to drill about 40 holes in mild steel from 11ga to 3/8" thick. Lots of the 3/8" ones too. What helped much was pilot holes, cutting fluid, and having the work lower than I was so I could lean into the drill, and also maybe most important putting a cup of water next to the work. Every few seconds stop drilling and spin the bit in the cup of water. I managed to do the entire job with one 3/4 bit without bluing it or snapping it off because it never got hot. Thanks for the tips.
An old timer taught me that you can grind the center of your drill bit down (similiar to an end mill) to drill round holes in sheet metal... It cuts a small plug out. Thought it was a handy little trick worth mentioning. Love the videos!!!!
Theres this trick when you drill through a piece of puckered cloth... Nice circular holes in thin sheet metal with regular bits. The cloth starts wrapping around the bit and weirdly enough guides it straight. An old timer taught me this at one of my student jobs - we made switchgear and I needed to drill these holes all the time. I cant remember all the details but I believe with a drill press it worked on 1.5mm sheet of mild steel with a piece of tree carcass under it, hole diameters up to 25mm or so.
One quick trick for everyone. Center punches are good at starting drill bits, but they excel at taking out side door windows in a car or truck. Even the cheap bastard ones from Horror Fright will do a good job at blowing out the side glass. If you have ever tried to bust one out to extract a person from a wreck that is on fire or close to it, you already know how hard it is. An automatic punch will take it out on the first try, I now have one in each vehicle I own and most of my friends as well. Just thought I’d pass that along.
it's tri-lobed because the drill bit catches more on one cutting edge, digging in deeper and acting as a pivot point so the other edge cuts with a wider radius than if it was rotating around the center point of the bit. of course as the second edge rotates around the first edge, it digs deeper and deeper into the edge of the hole, until it's dug in deep enough to pop the first edge free and cause it to pivot around the second edge and so on and so on. since each spot where an edge of the bit digs in deeper has a flatter area opposite it, this naturally favors a triangular shape with a two edged bit.
Thanks a million for showing off that Starret center punch. I am a safe tech so drilling accuracy is kind of important. On your word I spent the money and bought one and I don't regret it one bit!
I had a broken bolt in an exhaust manifold last winter. I didn't have access to take the whole manifold off to drill it out. So I just used the hydraulic jack on the back of the drill and it worked out perfect.
Dang, we must have gone to the same drilling school. I already knew all these tricks from 40 years ago when I was a machinist. I mostly visit for the humor; especially these days with the world coming to an end. Keep up the great teaching and entertainment.
Love the Atlas Co Rockhose straps! I have tonz of those things all over - and they always come in handy... have a few in the quad cubby, in the truck, tool box, basement, shed, camper, you name it!
love it! just like my boss when he first hired me. shows me all the safety squints and their various shades and colors then proceeded to not use them. lol you good ol' boys, is what we call your lot down in freedom world.
Seriously funny, I love your abuse of language, your channel is the best if you wanna not only chuckle constantly but actually learn something for half a beer or so
Found the best drill cases years ago at a large industrial hardware store. Only needed a case for 1/16 to 1/2" but purchase 3 of them along with a # & letter case. Had a few cases from Sears 40 years ago when they were still selling some quality products. Now have a standard set, a 135 degree set for stainless steel along with a standard size coated bit case.
That's actually one of the few, very common nearing popular phrase of cheap, badly cast metals. That phrase is stated around the entire United States and has been floating around for years. That's not saying anything else this wanker (lovingly called) says is popular or widespread lol.
10:41 "Why would you want lubrication or anything of the sort?" - 1, reduces heat on the bit and makes it, or it's coating, last longer. 2, reduces heat making the bit less likely to work harden and shatter inside the work piece. 3, decreases surface resistance of the bit flutes allowing the chip to flow away from the cut better. 3-A, Moving the chip away from the cutting surface makes the bit less likely to try and chomp through the chip which can cause it to shatter inside the work piece. . Slower cutting speeds and more lubrication are your friends when it comes to doing any time critical machining: because having a bit break off inside the work piece will eat up a whole lot more time to fix than simply cutting slower and taking the time to lubricate. That comes from a pattern maker - you know what our shop hours are like and how cut throat the bidding is to have something done as fast as possible. Cut slower and lubricate and you won't have to waste time fixing your own fuck ups. . When you're drilling new bolt holes deep into the middle of a huge cast steel pattern - when you absolutely do not want to do: is break off a hard chunk of something inside the bastard - because then you'll probably end up going in from the side to dig out what you lost in the hole which will guaranteed be jammed right fuckered in there - then you have to manually arch weld up the giant troth you just cut in the pattern and hammer out the voids and weld some more, and hammer some more and weld some more and reshape the inside via polishing to get the pattern back to spec. You just lost the better part of a days work - you want those curly qs coming out nice and steady in long strands. . If you're just fabricating something at home - go for it and who cares, there's always time to do it right the second time: but not on the clock when shop rate is $70 an hour, 5 hours spent fixing your own fuck up literally blows your profit and now costs you money.
I've been watching AvE for a long time through school, now I work in fabrication and assembly building aluminum boat trailers for government contracts essentially drilling hundreds of 1/4-3/4" holes through aluminum and galvanized steel 1/4-1" thick using 3/8 typically to pilot for al and steel. Most people i see use the spray lube on the steel, I spray it into a dipping cup and dip the bit in, seems to cool better and less mess. Also pulse the trigger if you havent piloted and pay attention to the chips, if you only see dust coming off push harder or sharpen! As for the dorito shaped hole, a bad sharpening will make it worse both of the cutting edges should be equal and similar chisel profile.
Could well be, I just weld the stuff and hardly ever have to drill/machine it... And the boss looked at me weird when I asked to get some alcohol to work with...
I bought some carbide twist drills, from a window/doors supplier, they're fantastic, they will drill into anything, even hardened steel! They usually sell them to locksmiths ;o)
Just a tip. If your drilling aluminum as we call in in the land down younder and you want to save your twist tips. Wax. Particularly bees wax is the best cutting compound and keeps your tool nice and sharp
Been abusing Cle-Line and Chicago-latrobe bits for years. Some of the best! Also another holesaw trick (shown to me by a friend who is a genius master locksmith) hole saw hole to small? Need to hole saw a bigger hole? Say your existing hole is 1" and you need to enlarge it to 1 1/4". Set to your 1 1/4" on an arbor, take your 1in and thread it on the arbor inside the 1 1/4". Ths 1in guides the 1 1/4 hole. Works like a charm
" The other one where you can both watch the hockey game"... lmao alright I'm subscribing. God damn I wish you tube were like this back when I was starting out in the diesel shop.
Great video. I learned a lot. I wish you would have touched on drilling speed. I have a drill press that has waay more speeds than I know what to do with.
I found a neat way to drill Stainless Steel with a regular drill bit. If you can find the old AMBER Glue we used to use on paper in Elementary Schreul.,,,stick your bit in that and drill the SS plate. Not only SAVES your drill edge, it drills through faster.
Are some of those bits made by Norseman? I've been itching to buy a nice set of them for a while. EDIT: Kept watching the video and found out that I was correct.
I’ve had very good luck with the Harbor Freight COBALT drill set, $50 per box; they last a long while between sharpening as compared to HSS and can be sharpened and reused unlike the cheapie Titanium-Nitride coated bits.I have three sets, work, home and truck for when I’m traveling.
I use water to lube while Im drilling hard steel. No smoke, a little steam when its time to spray some more. Keeps the drill bits cool. And nearly free too.
Bit 'o' historeeya: In 1781, Carl Wilhelm Scheele discovered that a new acid, tungstic acid, could be made from scheelite (at the time tungsten).[34][35] Scheele and Torbern Bergman suggested that it might be possible to obtain a new metal by reducing this acid.[36] In 1783, José and Fausto Elhuyar found an acid made from wolframite that was identical to tungstic acid. Later that year, at the Royal Basque Society in the town of Bergara, Spain, the brothers succeeded in isolating tungsten by reduction of this acid with charcoal, and they are credited with the discovery of the element (they called it "wolfram" or "volfram"
Yes, that works fine. Contrary to what AVE says, it's best to make the flat as big or bigger than the drill width if you have the room rather than just enough for the point to get started. You want each 'side' of the bit to cut the same amount of material at the same time or the drill will wander off course until deep enough to engage the sides.
If you are on the edge like he did it, then yes, no problem. But if it was down somewhere in the flat surface of the billet he had, then you are kind of screwed.
greyghostkoga Conceptually, it seems to me like you could still cut a flat or scoop (a gouge?) into the edge of the billet with a wheel of some sort, with the wheel either parallel or perpendicular to your desired drill angle.
Little late to the show here, but the drill bit demonstration showing the "wobble" inherent in long skinny bits especially mounted in a chuck is the reason that I set up our work mill/drill (a pretty standard ~50" manual knee mill) with a very complete ER collet system (and R8 collet system). A complete set of ER collets (metric/SAE) with full overlap in clamping range eliminates the need for a chuck all-together. Didn't even put a chuck in the toolkit for the mill. We hold all drillbits in a collet on this machine. In a DA collet, you can clamp right down over the flutes of the bit and really get things very rigid even with tiny bits.
Thanks for that. It so just happens to be that I have to drill a bunch of holes next few days. Now I have a fee tricks up my sleeve to make my work a lot easier.
Holy Bejeesees.... I was watching the first four minutes of this drilling tutorial like a hawk watching his dinner waddling across the barnyard until you mentioned about using the "thumb detector" for giving the center punch hell. Right after you called that BFH a "thumb detector", I started laughing my arse off during the remainder of the video, and I was not able to learn a freaking thing until I was able to stop laughing about 30 minutes later. Damn, you are too freaking hilarious! I love it!!!
Not even a few seconds into this, and I'm already cracking up! "So you can both watch the hockey game" BWAH-HAH-HAW-HAWWW! "Those whose knickers come factory pre-knotted" Haa haha hah Haa ha! Funny ass shit!
Those left-hand twist drills are for when you're drilling south of the equator.
!
@ Javier Fauxnom I know --- simple 'n' incredibly easy to do, right??? Just like trying to reverse a huge bulky utility-trailer properly into a tight space is super-uncomplicated --- just keep backing up slowly till you hear da crunch, and then you know you've backed up far enough. :P
Equator? Ha! Earth is flat no equator.
Buy a set for your favorite apprentice
I thought they'd be for Ned Flanders?
Dewalt service tech: "wow, another worn-out thrust bearing! you must have really strong arms!" Ave:"eyah... heh... strong arms."
😅😂🤣
😎Yes, yes i do.
Canadian Beavis and Butthead
I mostly work with electronicals so I had never heard of one of those "stepper drill" thingys, went and bought one and it has made my life so much easier when working with metal and particularly plastics. Thanks Uncle!
Robert Marchini is $
"Lubrication is optional for the small stuff" - my girlfriend's favorite quote.
🤣🤣🤣
Praying for you that she means your unit might be big, but since she is so small, she doesn't need lube for her own kitchen appliance.
@@overklift she only had one rack on her microwave grill.
If you love it, lube it!
Haha yeah she told me the same thing
I been knocking around metal shops etc since 76 but I keep coming back to AvE's channel not just for the tips I somehow never stumbled across until now, but for the new technical terms... like "thumb detector".
Another benefit of step drills is that being single flute, they hold themselves concentric and make a round hole in thin material. They also can't corkscrew themselves into the hole.
Logan Newman beat me to it
Logan Newman the best step drills are double fluted....much finer centering & cutting
bri sail
You do realize that the tri-lobed holes are caused by the bit having two flutes right, it doesn't happen with single flute
I identify as a tri-lobed woman of color. Thanks - Lumpy
Thanks Adam Savage
The "Times New Roman" on Chinesium is actually what happens when you write the roman alphabet with the standard *Chinese* font called Mincho. Mincho was actually developed in Japan and you do see it on '90s Japanese stuff as well but these days it's the obvious flag of a company that never bothered to design its own logotype for export markets.
Interesting.
"Works in practice.... but does it work in theory?" Love this guy!
Hey AvE
I've been in the USAF (Aircraft Metals Tech) since 96'. We occasionally have to hand drill safety wire holes with a # 55 drill bit in the hex head of fasteners on the aircraft or in the jet shop.
The way we do it is by locating the start of the hole with a punch and then drilling perpendicular as if drilling a straight hole but when we have the entire dia. of the drill bit below the the surface we then begin to slowly move the drill in the direction that you want the hole to go while continuing downward pressure. In our case it's towards the closest corner of the bolt head but the same technique works on about anything.
Love your channel!
Love to watch that ,mission critical obsolete part and time sensitive!
Bought my first auto center punch the other day. Went back and bought 5 more. Treat em like clamps. Can't ever have too many. Definitely life changing tool! Freaking love your videos dude!
While doing electrical work in a shop that had a dozen old screw machines noticed that they had a lot of left hand drill bits. Set up guy explained that if last operation was turning CCW they would use a left hand drill bit to save a second or two from stopping machine then changing direction. Saved them a nice piece of change while running the same piece 24 hours a day for several days.
I've been farting around in the shop for 30 years, so not a ton of new stuff here for me...but holy carp, that hole saw tip around 18:30 ! Just that one tip alone is more than worth the price of admission!
Jesus i just rolled over to that time stamp and that idea is priceless!!!!!
Agreed, I’m 3/4 AvE level but it’s the last 1/4 what puts the pencil in my lead
I absotively, posilutely agree !
totally agree, if I knew that 35 years ago I could have halved my profanity count
sp4nrs has
What you call a thumb detector, I call a convincing iron.
Thanks for the exit hole tip with the round saw, Awesome!
and you certainty don't wont to have to pull out when you are busy drilling
I have a construction trade ticket (electrician) and no one every showed me this stuff. Well, I figured out the hole saw trick on my own. I thought I was real clever that day; a first year teaching his newly devised trick to his journeyman. Anyways, this was hugely edifying (mostly for my home projects, but edifying none the less). Thanks!
You'll always want to use a cutting oil to preserve your tool and keep it from overheating and ruining the hardening. Especially when drilling stainless (316+ mainly) since it hardens something awful when heated.
Those last 7 words really hit home for me 😔
This is just so wrong. If you are drilling a really small hole, say 0.5mm, then using oil will cause the drill to break. Instead, If you really need to cool the drill (wich you really don't) you should Instead use pure alcohol or water as it is not too viscous for the tool.
It's not "just so wrong" because you have outliers. The core statement is that you want to cool and lubricate your drilling tool to preserve it.
0,5mm holes aren't what most people drill and as such it's not the main target of a comment about using cutting oil.
Yes, on very small holes you want a less viscous lubricant/coolant, though not pure water as water is worse than oil in small applications/holes.
So I apply for a job at a machine shop and they call me in for an interview. The manager says, "Where did you learn machining?"
I says, "From the keenest machinist on the interwebs." He takes me into the shop to test my knowledge, starts pointing at tools and asking me what they're called. I says, "That's an high-powered thumb detector. That's a set of Chinesium nut huggers. That's a hand held hole plunger, and that big one over there is the chief chooch-o-matic."
He says, "Don't call us. We'll call you."
I says, "Keep your dick in a vice."
He says, "Security!"
"Thumb detector"... from now on that's how I'll be calling all my hammers :-D
@@chuckfarley567 LOL ouch 😅
also where do i get voice activated camera focusers?
Undervalued comment of 2017
Lol
Actually I think it's profanity activated 😅
Drop it enough times
You rewire a "clapper" to focus the camera.
Hey on the metal drilling I recently had to drill about 40 holes in mild steel from 11ga to 3/8" thick. Lots of the 3/8" ones too. What helped much was pilot holes, cutting fluid, and having the work lower than I was so I could lean into the drill, and also maybe most important putting a cup of water next to the work. Every few seconds stop drilling and spin the bit in the cup of water. I managed to do the entire job with one 3/4 bit without bluing it or snapping it off because it never got hot. Thanks for the tips.
1:02 "Don't use your hand...if you don't have to!" Sage advice, AvE!
Awesome video, great advice. Thank you. Every grade above M10 has cobalt in it. M42 cobalt has at least 8 percent cobalt
An old timer taught me that you can grind the center of your drill bit down (similiar to an end mill) to drill round holes in sheet metal... It cuts a small plug out. Thought it was a handy little trick worth mentioning. Love the videos!!!!
Lucas Harrell Theyre called brad point drill bits.
Theres this trick when you drill through a piece of puckered cloth... Nice circular holes in thin sheet metal with regular bits. The cloth starts wrapping around the bit and weirdly enough guides it straight. An old timer taught me this at one of my student jobs - we made switchgear and I needed to drill these holes all the time. I cant remember all the details but I believe with a drill press it worked on 1.5mm sheet of mild steel with a piece of tree carcass under it, hole diameters up to 25mm or so.
Imrich Andráš you mustn't have watched the video through, he showed that trick and its limitations in here
"Because this always gets chowdered up and your hooped if you don't have a pilot" CLASSIC !!
If there is a "W" used for tungsten, it is based on the German name for it, "Wolfram".
We all knew that - that's precisely what makes it so misaligned and therefore curiously noteworthy.
Volfram
@@jacknickolstine3355 Folfram?
Went one step to far on the step drill. Need to undrill hole. Please advise.
+TK TK Use bigger washer.
lol!!!!!
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
TK TK alternatively weld a cupcake into the hole to close it up and redrill
you need to backspin it.
One quick trick for everyone. Center punches are good at starting drill bits, but they excel at taking out side door windows in a car or truck. Even the cheap bastard ones from Horror Fright will do a good job at blowing out the side glass. If you have ever tried to bust one out to extract a person from a wreck that is on fire or close to it, you already know how hard it is. An automatic punch will take it out on the first try, I now have one in each vehicle I own and most of my friends as well. Just thought I’d pass that along.
@jubjub247 Why would you be getting searched in the first place...?
@@thetraveller869 if you have never been searched 'randomly', for no real reason, consider yourself lucky as well as privileged
@@rkoep If a cop wants to search me he/she will need a reason. Without one I'll be getting arrested because I will not consent and I WILL resist.
@@thetraveller869 In Britain?? because you are black...!!!
Can search me as much as they want as long as they frisk me plenty.
it's tri-lobed because the drill bit catches more on one cutting edge, digging in deeper and acting as a pivot point so the other edge cuts with a wider radius than if it was rotating around the center point of the bit. of course as the second edge rotates around the first edge, it digs deeper and deeper into the edge of the hole, until it's dug in deep enough to pop the first edge free and cause it to pivot around the second edge and so on and so on. since each spot where an edge of the bit digs in deeper has a flatter area opposite it, this naturally favors a triangular shape with a two edged bit.
It's nice when someone see the physics involved. Cuts way down on those little mysteries that plague folks.
You put it better than I was about to :)
Maltfalc would a three fluted drill cut smoothly?
Maltfalc you mean it wankeled?
TLDR: It weeble-wobbles in the hole.
After viewing this video, my whole life of not drilling properly flashed before my eyes. Thank you so much Ave !
there are at least 20 of those blue presto drill bit holders in every uk workshop, its regulation
still no 3.5s tho
Damn this Snow Mexican is very knowledgeable
Subcribed
I've never heard of a Canadian being called a "Snow Mexican", and that got a pretty good laugh out of me.
Thanks a million for showing off that Starret center punch. I am a safe tech so drilling accuracy is kind of important. On your word I spent the money and bought one and I don't regret it one bit!
I had a broken bolt in an exhaust manifold last winter. I didn't have access to take the whole manifold off to drill it out. So I just used the hydraulic jack on the back of the drill and it worked out perfect.
Dang, we must have gone to the same drilling school. I already knew all these tricks from 40 years ago when I was a machinist. I mostly visit for the humor; especially these days with the world coming to an end. Keep up the great teaching and entertainment.
Your friggen terminology is incredible
$100 for Thai ladies? Holy crap, what did you do, buy the entire village?
"Big hands" kicks up the price.
You get real ladies !
Aftermarket "clamps"
For a week.
Just the ones with low miles and no flatspots
Don't care if the fucking hole isn't perfect as long as the fucking bolt goes through it.
Billy Cook that's a sex joke ready to be delivered right there
Love the Atlas Co Rockhose straps! I have tonz of those things all over - and they always come in handy... have a few in the quad cubby, in the truck, tool box, basement, shed, camper, you name it!
love it! just like my boss when he first hired me. shows me all the safety squints and their various shades and colors then proceeded to not use them. lol you good ol' boys, is what we call your lot down in freedom world.
9:43 "Works in practice but does it work in theory?"
Seriously funny, I love your abuse of language, your channel is the best if you wanna not only chuckle constantly but actually learn something for half a beer or so
Found the best drill cases years ago at a large industrial hardware store. Only needed a case for 1/16 to 1/2" but purchase 3 of them along with a # & letter case. Had a few cases from Sears 40 years ago when they were still selling some quality products. Now have a standard set, a 135 degree set for stainless steel along with a standard size coated bit case.
That half hole trick just saved my day. Came at the very right time. Thank you!
I haven’t been this excited over finding a channel since discovering those late night “Hot Zone” flicks.... ahh... good ol’ hardcore porn.
For drilling real big holes , I usually whip out my big 12"
(Drill press- what where you thinking?)
Lmao
Nah, record!
Ur own terms kill me! "Chinesium" I'm using that for life!
That's actually one of the few, very common nearing popular phrase of cheap, badly cast metals.
That phrase is stated around the entire United States and has been floating around for years.
That's not saying anything else this wanker (lovingly called) says is popular or widespread lol.
10:41 "Why would you want lubrication or anything of the sort?" -
1, reduces heat on the bit and makes it, or it's coating, last longer.
2, reduces heat making the bit less likely to work harden and shatter inside the work piece.
3, decreases surface resistance of the bit flutes allowing the chip to flow away from the cut better.
3-A, Moving the chip away from the cutting surface makes the bit less likely to try and chomp through the chip which can cause it to shatter inside the work piece.
.
Slower cutting speeds and more lubrication are your friends when it comes to doing any time critical machining: because having a bit break off inside the work piece will eat up a whole lot more time to fix than simply cutting slower and taking the time to lubricate. That comes from a pattern maker - you know what our shop hours are like and how cut throat the bidding is to have something done as fast as possible. Cut slower and lubricate and you won't have to waste time fixing your own fuck ups.
.
When you're drilling new bolt holes deep into the middle of a huge cast steel pattern - when you absolutely do not want to do: is break off a hard chunk of something inside the bastard - because then you'll probably end up going in from the side to dig out what you lost in the hole which will guaranteed be jammed right fuckered in there - then you have to manually arch weld up the giant troth you just cut in the pattern and hammer out the voids and weld some more, and hammer some more and weld some more and reshape the inside via polishing to get the pattern back to spec. You just lost the better part of a days work - you want those curly qs coming out nice and steady in long strands.
.
If you're just fabricating something at home - go for it and who cares, there's always time to do it right the second time: but not on the clock when shop rate is $70 an hour, 5 hours spent fixing your own fuck up literally blows your profit and now costs you money.
I've been watching AvE for a long time through school, now I work in fabrication and assembly building aluminum boat trailers for government contracts essentially drilling hundreds of 1/4-3/4" holes through aluminum and galvanized steel 1/4-1" thick using 3/8 typically to pilot for al and steel. Most people i see use the spray lube on the steel, I spray it into a dipping cup and dip the bit in, seems to cool better and less mess. Also pulse the trigger if you havent piloted and pay attention to the chips, if you only see dust coming off push harder or sharpen! As for the dorito shaped hole, a bad sharpening will make it worse both of the cutting edges should be equal and similar chisel profile.
Tungsten's symbol is W because it was originally called wolfram because it devoured other metals like a wolf.
Oxygen.
"Works in practice, but does it work in theory?" Brilliant!
Good video. Some of these words of wisdom I have learned the slow way over 40 plus yrs working. Thx.
Everything is skookum except wearing gloves when drilling. I'd rather lose a piece of skin than a whole finger or hand...
NurchOK Absolutely. In Germany it is prohibited to wear gloves when drilling by BGR 195 §4.1.1
And yes... There is a rule for everything in Germany.
rule against having rules for everything? rule to have rules for everything?? rule for having rules about having rules about everything!?!?!?
NurchOK u
On the delta safety placard from our drill press it says no gloves
Same when using an hand held angle grinder.
Figure out why Tungsten has lots of W in it? Tungsten was discovered by Carl Wilhelm Scheele. He named it Wolfram in German.
I love the absolute kitten piss out of these videos. If you film it, they will watch. Skip to my chooch my darlin!
The Red Green Show + Trailer Park Boys = AvE
This is my new favorite channel this guy is awesome
I drill angle holes by easing the drill in gently then leaning it over slowly ,works pretty well most times
The intro of this video is good enough to be its own stand alone video. Thank you for that AVE! rofl
This is the most watched video of two hands talking to each other
Long live Viral Videos
Welcome straight up non-BS closeups
tungsten was originally Wolfram hence the W , but you knew that
V
when drilling aluminium give it a squirt of ethanol, it stops the aluminium from "welding" it self to the drill
Why waste good vodka when you can use Americas favorite libation, Wd40?
denatural alcohol will do, and unlike wd40 it doesn't smell or leave an oily mess, and to me ethanol seems to work much better than wd40
Could well be, I just weld the stuff and hardly ever have to drill/machine it... And the boss looked at me weird when I asked to get some alcohol to work with...
Wd-40 isnt good to use. You might think it is but youre really better off just doing it dry. Alcohol does make a good lubricant though.
We use Kerosene at work to lubricate Aluminium, it has a little oil in it.
Lmfao at the beginning and The safeties and recommendations 🤣 @AvE
"Lubrication, for small stuff is optional"
that's what she said
Tom Lipton gave you a tip? Wow! Most he gives the full shaft to
??? LOL
I bought some carbide twist drills, from a window/doors supplier, they're fantastic, they will drill into anything, even hardened steel! They usually sell them to locksmiths ;o)
Just a tip. If your drilling aluminum as we call in in the land down younder and you want to save your twist tips. Wax. Particularly bees wax is the best cutting compound and keeps your tool nice and sharp
Just learned more than I ever did in high school. 👍
I almost fell out of my chair laughing after the font comment...
Been abusing Cle-Line and Chicago-latrobe bits for years. Some of the best!
Also another holesaw trick (shown to me by a friend who is a genius master locksmith) hole saw hole to small? Need to hole saw a bigger hole? Say your existing hole is 1" and you need to enlarge it to 1 1/4". Set to your 1 1/4" on an arbor, take your 1in and thread it on the arbor inside the 1 1/4". Ths 1in guides the 1 1/4 hole. Works like a charm
" The other one where you can both watch the hockey game"... lmao alright I'm subscribing. God damn I wish you tube were like this back when I was starting out in the diesel shop.
"Size Z"
How far will this senseless anarchy go
probably for another G or H years
I really need to get some work done but I’m laughing to hard.
Thanks for the tip on the Hole Drill, also on how to drill on an angle.
Great video. I learned a lot. I wish you would have touched on drilling speed. I have a drill press that has waay more speeds than I know what to do with.
Never came this early to an AvE video.
same. saturday morning coffee routine
haywoodyoudome was ya using lefty? I do enjoy a good ol stranger yank
Came early and hard, nap required.
tried to explain to my wife why I was laughing. waste of time
I've been using lefty so much that the righty found out and wants to divorce.
I like the idea that AvE guy is just Essential Craftsman after a beer is cracked.
I found a neat way to drill Stainless Steel with a regular drill bit. If you can find the old AMBER Glue we used to use on paper in Elementary Schreul.,,,stick your bit in that and drill the SS plate. Not only SAVES your drill edge, it drills through faster.
Are some of those bits made by Norseman? I've been itching to buy a nice set of them for a while.
EDIT: Kept watching the video and found out that I was correct.
Such an awesome video! I’m no stranger to the drilling and sweating routine, and definitely picked up some knowledge!
I’ve had very good luck with the Harbor Freight COBALT drill set, $50 per box; they last a long while between sharpening as compared to HSS and can be sharpened and reused unlike the cheapie Titanium-Nitride coated bits.I have three sets, work, home and truck for when I’m traveling.
This guy is F'ing FUNNY!!! Great tips for the home shop machinist, but the videos are hard to watch because you are laughing so hard!!!!!!!!!!!!
Brandon Luter vvbhehhdjxh bff iigrgrud uhh vdvgggdgehdhvshxhdvhxhsveudvvxjuxvdgsdhvvdvvdhdhgsvdvddvhhxux uberbsvdbjd0 isjshhddsshsjs906wewwwqqqqs1s1sqwww www quuhu4ryyr.
Vsnsiwhidbp.
I use water to lube while Im drilling hard steel. No smoke, a little steam when its time to spray some more. Keeps the drill bits cool. And nearly free too.
Bit 'o' historeeya:
In 1781, Carl Wilhelm Scheele discovered that a new acid, tungstic acid, could be made from scheelite (at the time tungsten).[34][35] Scheele and Torbern Bergman suggested that it might be possible to obtain a new metal by reducing this acid.[36] In 1783, José and Fausto Elhuyar found an acid made from wolframite that was identical to tungstic acid. Later that year, at the Royal Basque Society in the town of Bergara, Spain, the brothers succeeded in isolating tungsten by reduction of this acid with charcoal, and they are credited with the discovery of the element (they called it "wolfram" or "volfram"
The most fun is when you drill, and a very long piece of chip doesn't want to break and tries to cut your hand by acting like a helicopter blade
Sami Ghammat
Or when the hot steel shavings land on your arms and start melting your skin.
did i really just watch a 28min video on how to drill a hole. i need to get a life
albert hughes Nah... I had one, then I divorced her. Turns out, they are kind of over rated.
when you get a life you should be well able to drill holes in it.
If this is not life than I dont know what is.
yup....! Thank you
Smooth sound track,
All ways perfect for the scene. Oscar award coming.
Iron is the last element made inside a giant star before it goes supernova.
Am I the only one who caught "N64 respirator" LMAO
Bloody Grundel no but nobody else was so impressed with themself that they needed to post about it
Could you use a wheel (grinder?) to cut the flat spot for angled drilling? Wouldn't a saucer\scoop shape be as good as "actually flat"?
Yes, that works fine. Contrary to what AVE says, it's best to make the flat as big or bigger than the drill width if you have the room rather than just enough for the point to get started. You want each 'side' of the bit to cut the same amount of material at the same time or the drill will wander off course until deep enough to engage the sides.
If you are on the edge like he did it, then yes, no problem. But if it was down somewhere in the flat surface of the billet he had, then you are kind of screwed.
greyghostkoga Conceptually, it seems to me like you could still cut a flat or scoop (a gouge?) into the edge of the billet with a wheel of some sort, with the wheel either parallel or perpendicular to your desired drill angle.
A die grinder with a square cut rotary file / burr will make nice flat pockets with less material waste or part weakening.
a bevel..?
Little late to the show here, but the drill bit demonstration showing the "wobble" inherent in long skinny bits especially mounted in a chuck is the reason that I set up our work mill/drill (a pretty standard ~50" manual knee mill) with a very complete ER collet system (and R8 collet system). A complete set of ER collets (metric/SAE) with full overlap in clamping range eliminates the need for a chuck all-together. Didn't even put a chuck in the toolkit for the mill. We hold all drillbits in a collet on this machine. In a DA collet, you can clamp right down over the flutes of the bit and really get things very rigid even with tiny bits.
Wikipedia needs to take some lessons from you good sir. So good I can't stop laughing. Subscribed
Thanks for that. It so just happens to be that I have to drill a bunch of holes next few days. Now I have a fee tricks up my sleeve to make my work a lot easier.
Holy Bejeesees.... I was watching the first four minutes of this drilling tutorial like a hawk watching his dinner waddling across the barnyard until you mentioned about using the "thumb detector" for giving the center punch hell. Right after you called that BFH a "thumb detector", I started laughing my arse off during the remainder of the video, and I was not able to learn a freaking thing until I was able to stop laughing about 30 minutes later. Damn, you are too freaking hilarious! I love it!!!
Not even a few seconds into this, and I'm already cracking up!
"So you can both watch the hockey game" BWAH-HAH-HAW-HAWWW!
"Those whose knickers come factory pre-knotted" Haa haha hah Haa ha!
Funny ass shit!
I’ve always used an angle grinder with a grinding disk and then used a punch for the pilot hole for drilling on an angle.
In a rotary engine, it's a triangle spinning in a lobe. This is just the reverse a lobe (weeble wobble) in a triangle.
Very informative on the different types of drill bits and there skookum levels @AvE
focus you fack!
thumb detector 😂😂😂👍
Always learn and laugh with this channel but it was a new level today when properly re-introduced to the time old favorite, the "thumb detector"
Here in Norway we call that tapered drillbit a "juletre" or "christmas-tree" in english
keep your wick dry and nice