0:31 Whetstone Cutlery and Sharp Pebble 400/1000 1:31 King Deluxe 1000/6000 2:26 Shapton Pro 1000 3:04 Shapton Glass 1000 3:40 Kramer by Zwilling 1000 4:34 Naniwa Diamond 1000 6:27 Naniwa Superstone 1000 6:42 Naniwa Professional / Chosera 1000 8:27 Suehiro Cerax 1000 9:13 Suehiro Debado LD 101 (splash and go 1000) 11:19 Suehiro Debado MD 100 13:01 BEST $10-$20 13:20 BEST $20-$30 13:37 BEST $40-$50 13:58 Shapton Glass vs Kramer / Naniwa Professional 14:36 BEST SOAKER 14:40 BEST SPLASH AND GO You used the word "snappy" several times… how would you describe/define that feeling? With a Naniwa Professional 800 and a Shapton Glass 1000, I'm pretty good in this range, but I wouldn't mind trying the Cerax or Debado if you forced me! 🤣 Thanks Ryky!
At one point I had a lot of 1k stones. I now use the Cerax 90% of the time and the Shapton Glass when I need something that will stay super flat throughout a long session. My only crazy stone collection these days is polishing stones. Whether natural or synthetic, I really enjoy the differences in polishing.
I bought a Naniwa combination stone 1000/3000 and a stone holder as my entry level stone . The stone was 49.00 Canadian . The Chosera Professional 800 is 99.00 Canadian from Knifewear in Canada . You're such an enabler Ricky lol , keep up the good work .
Hello Ricky, it's been ages since I found my way to your channel. Awesome to see you have about 99k more subscribers now compared to the first time I found your old ricky tran channel. You're basically the guru of online sharpening and knife info by this point. Keep up the great work!
A beginer here. On your advice I got the PebbleStone 400/1000 stone. With your technique I have been able to sharpen my knifes. Wouldn't mind winning a stone to up higher on the sharpening/polishing scale.
Definitely really useful these top 10! I love the comparison of qualities and love my naniwa pro 800. Am always looking to expand upward though. You keep this up Rycky!
Great content Ricky. 1000 grit stones are the most used and, if it's the only stone you have it is acceptable, and as u said there's a large range of them for beginners and pros, and you're giving them away contributing back to your supporters. ( need a cerax 1000 XD, have a king KDS1000/6000, would love to feel how a cerax feels in comparison)
I love my cerax 1k! Nice video mate. Have been wondering what the debado’s were like. Maybe there code is MD for massive debado and LD for little debado?
It's hard to beat the Cerax 1000. You can get one from MTC Kitchen for $39. They offer coupons and discounts a lot on their website. I also purchased the Kitayama 8000 for $59. Using a 20% off coupon I got both stones for less than $80. Both stones are outstanding.
I hope you read your newer comments on your older videos. Your vids are timeless and such great info! So here is my question and the “why?” I’m considered the “chef” in the family. Soooo, my older sister gave me her old paring knife. She loved it. Maybe it had been nice at one point in time. I have no idea. It is stainless steel. It says Mercer on the blade. It honestly is fuller than a butter knife. I am not exaggerating. So, I decided to learn and practice sharpening skills (your RUclips vids are outstanding). I am learning knife sharpening from you because I love cooking and I love my sweet knives. Before I had discovered your channel on RUclips I had a King 1000/6000 stone. So I started this paring knife on the 1000 side of the stone. After 30 minutes there was nothing. So I went down to an 800. Still working on it. Any recommendations? This is my learning/practice knife. I want to be better at knife sharpening before a try sharpening my nice knives.
What happened to the TSUBOMAN Atoma 1200? I know it’s a diamond plate, not a stone, but in a past video, you said it might replace all of your 1000 grit stones. I’m curious why it is never mentioned on Burrfication anymore
Cuz it clearly didn’t (and can never) replace what a good whetstone has to offer. Trust me I own an atoma 1200 (and 120 and 400. All great but for different purposes) stones just feel better and honestly work faster in most cases
I take any whetstone that you wanting to give away trying to get a new one for work to keep my konosuke and dalstrong knives sharp. Great video by the way thanks for making help a lot with info
Love your vids man! Could you do a video sharpening super steel? Like M390 or even M4? Which stones are best? I know you did the Diamond stones about 2 weeks ago, but can you get away without diamond?
I will take the sick stones please! Although, dope does sound dope...sign me up for those as well! Great vids, I am new to sharpening and am learning a lot from you!
Experience alone speaking, here... a LOT of it "bad" (lolz)... BUT... (and hopefully, Ryky can give us a vid'... I'd love that)... In the meantime, let me offer a few...er... "questionable insights". First, it kind of depends on the scissors (or shears) individually. Some can be taken apart into individual blades, and some... have to be "opened fully" and should be clamped or restrained for the purpose of sharpening... Dinging up the "wrong edge" in the middle of fixing them really REALLY SUCKS... Otherwise, it's really important to point out that scissors are a SINGLE bevel cutting instrument WITH special nuance... Now, the single bevel part is important because it relegates MOST of the sharpening process to the "same old skill" for a single bevel. The nuance is twofold... First, you only want the slightest micro-burr to develop. The "backside" of a scissors-blade has to be AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE... or in some cases very very slightly curved TOWARD the opposing blade... Moving too much metal by creating and removing a large burr will cause gaps. The very very slight curve toward the opposite blade (along with flats) is to make that "slip-space" between scissors-blades as absolutely TINY as possible, while still allowing motion. The blades overlap as you "close" scissors, to force-wedge apart and mechanically separate the material you're cutting. ANY gap at all, allows thin materials to "fold into" that "slip-space" and "crimp" or "jam" the scissors instead of being cut. NOW, you should be able to "play this game to it's goal of a good cutting edge" on scissors... BUT what else do you need to know? Some scissors can be taken apart, separating the blades into individual cutting edges... BUT you have to put them back together. If using a bolt or a bolt and nut, this has a certain "torque spec"... That is, there's a special tightness for the bolt/nut in the scissors that presses the two blades together "just right" for cutting, while causing minimal friction and wear between them in use... Most of the time, with nuts involved, they're "locking nuts" so it's easy enough to just "tighten in steps" adding a bit of torque (around one-eighth turn at a time) and casually opening and closing the scissors a few cycles to "feel"... When you feel like it's "dragging about right" then you should try cutting something thin, like one layer of broad-cloth or a single leaf of relatively cheap/thin paper... Typing paper or standard printer stock is reasonable, but it depends on your scissors and desired purpose. NEVER EVER EVER USE CLOTH OR HAIR SCISSORS ON PAPER... I WILL FIND YOU AND HIT YOU. That's just one of the WORST crimes you can commit to wearing out your GOOD shears. (lolz... it's also a joke, since I'm not great on people-tracking... you can laugh)... On those scissors that don't have a "locking nut" or similar function... When you use them, they will "loosen up" on you... This is ALSO a rather common flaw in older scissors, even great ones... There's a fairly cheap product called "Locktite" or "Threadlocker" that you can find at most hardware and automotive supply stores... AND usually there's bottles and tubes of it at places like Wally World or the hardware section of most department stores. A single drop of this stuff applied to the "bolt" before assembly (right at the tip of the threads) is enough to "lock" it in place when you've got the scissors tight enough. It's important to note that this stuff "sets up" overnight... so for the first four to six hours after you've found that "perfect drag" tightness (the same as before) you should just set the scissors down and leave them to cure. It saves you headaches and repeated tightenings later. AND it does NOT have to be the big red bottle of "baddest ass threadlocking compound ever"... so any reasonable threadlocker will do. "You don't have to hold elephants with it or nothin'..." as we often say around here. AND some scissors are NOT meant to be taken apart... Okay, sometimes they're held together by a "rivet"... SO for sharpening, a rubber-band is good enough to bind the blade-to-handle for the side you're not working on. Rubber-bands are cheap, and you can even fold a piece of thin cardboard (greeting or business card stock) over the "business edge" of a newly sharpened blade/edge to avoid breaking the rubberband, because that can get frustrating on some projects. Now, remember how I said "sometimes the scissors just loosen up"??? Well, if you read this far, the you're interested (congrat's)... SO this is common with these "riveted together" scissors and shears too. You can find a solid surface (like a vice with anvil spot, heavy metal plate, anvil (obviously), or something just solid that you don't mind scarring up a bit... A small "flat ended" punch or bar, and a hammer... Careful to use the punch against the rivet so that the rivet is as vertical and steady as possible, a smart strike of the hammer will "crush" the rivet back toward it's original shape and tighten the scissors. Keep in mind that metal fatigue is a thing, and sooner or later the rivet will probably loosen again... SOMETIMES, you can find a replacement bolt and nut for the job, and with a small drill bit for METAL, it's not too horrible a job to clamp the scissors down and drill out that old rivet and replace it. I would recommend (with bolts longer than necessary) that you put the scissors together with the bolt and nut FIRST, and THEN cut the excess off the bolt... I'm putting this at the end, because MANY MANY TIMES, this "scissors tightening" is the ONLY thing I've had to do to "fix" a pair... ESPECIALLY an antique pair of scissors. if the blades "look good" in condition, then it's worth trying before you spend a lot of time and energy moving metal that doesn't necessarily need to be moved. SO there you have it, approximately, the kinds of skills that go into sharpening scissors as opposed to knives. I've seen these requests before on Ryky's comment sections, and I just had to toss a bit of experience and observation... I'm admittedly still hit and miss on them, but I am a little more "hit" than "miss"... Hope you get something useful... AND have a like, since I would definitely agree, "A video of this sort of thing would be SO GREAT!"... wow... even for me, this is a GREAT wall of text. ;o)
Ryky! I love what you do man, keep up the amazing videos, broke college boy but the king 1000/6000 is the one thing I asked Santa for haha fingers crossed he’s real 😂😭😭
the md 100 is not the largest 1k stone. you can get the shapton lr250 in 250x100 size. also, there is a big cerax 1k in the size of the md 100, but more than double in thickness.
Hi just wondering if you could sharpen a knife. By just pressing down on the edge of the knife until it touches the stone for finding the edge of the knife. Laying it flat across the stone
New subscriber, had been looking at purchasing new knife for new sous chef position, and stumbled across your channel. Love the content and openness of your content and thoroughness of all your subjects (just binged nearly all of your episodes!) Just bought an Enso Vegetable cleaver recently (holiday specials and all that), and have some Canshan (i know they aren't $1000 knives, but they were a wedding gift and I really really like them) and was wondering on a reasonable stone(s) for both, would a Cerax #1000 be a decent stone as all purpose, and possibly adding a finer grit in the near future?
Thank you for all your hard work making these videos. I will be purchasing the King 1000 and King 6000 (S1) based on your recommendations. I really like that Cerax 1000 too, so might have to add that to the order. Would these stones work on the new CTS XHP steel?
Oh, hi! In these videos JIS ratings are mentioned? I ask this because there are several different ratings, and I assume this because most (all?) of these whetstones are japanese stones, if I am correct. Also, I have Tojiro/Fujitora stones: #200/#1000 grit combined: #220: little bit slurry, wears quickly, but looks usable with dull knife, #1000 wear? slur? what is it? :D I see some advancement on the knives when I use it. And I have a #4000 grit one also: slur? You will get it even in the ceiling! However, it can polish the blade nicely (I left it in water for too long and now it is full of cracks :S ) I guess these are JIS grated stones as well, as they are "Made In Japan" (let's ignore how the company measures grit right now, as we heard in the video that there are differences in it)
Ricky, thank you for your videos. They are very interesting and instructive. Could you, please, give us the shopping links or the stone list with their price range?
You just have everything earlier I was thinking I need a 1000 grit since I have a finishing stone and my 3000/8000 whostoff got dropped but they had so many great brands within £15 of each other.. anyway to make it short I thought if you and damn exactly what I need 😂
Question: should we expect any new code for Dalstrong this year? The one I tried codes from old videos are expired, and wanna get a couple for testing. Also please make a King W65 vs KDS for us to judge how the budget version performs
Hi Ricky just just your RUclips story and you had a global knife NI series please will you do a review on them as I've just got a full set for work thanks
Huh,the Suehiro Cerax 1000 grit I think is the best whetstone for mid range whetstone, a few days ago I just but it & wow, very-very good as heaven...great stone as well. C'mon
So Ricky (I'm sorry if I spell it wrong), I just got myself the cerax 1000 and tbh I'm kinda confuse where to start. And I've got some question to ask, hope you don't mind. 1. What should I do with that little stone I got alongside with the whetstone? 2. And is it okay if I only sharpen my knife with just Cerax 1000? Or do I need another stone with different grid? 3. What should I do to maintain my Cerax 1000? I hope you can help me with all these questions. Thank you in advance!
Another great video, very informative, if you give away any stones below 700 grit or above 6000 I'd be excited to be considered, as I just got a king kds 1000/6000 and would like to get a good set of stones to cover most/all grit ranges Keep up the good work and I can't wait for the next update on your under development line of knives
If you already have a king 1000/6000 all you need is a low grit stone like a 100 or 300 for fixing chips and regrinding a bevel. With those 2 ( actually 3) stones I wouldn't spend more money on sharpening supplies. Use your money for good knives instead
Chosera user here. But damn I would buy this larger Suehiro if I already didn`t have the choseras. Just for it`s larger size. I did my own strop and it`s an 1 meter long strop. lol
Great video Ricky !! AND If you can send a stone my way I would appreciate it! I'm getting my nephew into sharpening, would be a good XMAS present to give this to him and a shortcut to your video... what do you think?
Hi, great vids, very helpful. Question, if I buy a Cerax 1000 but don't intend to buy a higher grit stone to polish on, will this leave a burr on the edge? If it does, do I need to take it off the edge? Or have I not watched enough of your videos to find the answer to my question yet :-)?
@Burrfection I have some JA Henckels 4 star knives. Looks like the Rockwell is around 57. I have owned these for 20 years and I don't believe they have ever been sharpened. I want to buy a stone or two so I can put an edge on them. Which stones are good for that hardness rating? Is the King 1000 a good stone for this? Or should I jump into the Shapton glass range? Thanks
Question Ryki How consistent are the brands-Meaning if you had a tan year old king 1000(low use so it is in good condition), does it feel like a new sample of the same stone?
Hello Ricky, I'm a beginner in sharpening and I bought Naniwa Super Stone 1000, but after that I see your coment for this stone and I wanna ask you is it have any kind of big problem with SS 1000? Is it a big mistake that I Will start with him to learning? :( Thnks in advance
Hey burrfection and friends! I'm trying to figure out some good whetstones to get I'm a beginner so this will be my first one. I'm looking at the suehiro 1000/6000 doubled sided. What do you guys think?
Hey RyKy, I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, but I’ve been looking for some information on the Kitayama #8000. I have looked up Kitayama on your channel and haven’t seen anything, but I see it on your recommendations on amazon. When can do you use the stone? Directly after sharpening on a #1000 or should I go 1000-3000-5000-8000? Any info will help, thank you so much for everything you do for us!
You can jump from 1000 to the Kitayama 8000, you will just spend a little more time there than if you do a progression of 1000-3000-5000-8000. I personally go 1000-3000-6000-8000 on cerax stones and just need 1 pass on each stone after the 1000. If your on a budget just get the Kitayama 8000 and skip the others. Its an excellent stone.
And what if You have > 62HRC knife? I know, there's Hyper 1000, but I've see many videos, where people sharpen 62-63 blues and whites without any problem. Is it only the wear of softer KD?
king hyper is really nice, but much tougher and faster than the king deluxe. the naniwa pro 800 feels a bit better than the hyper, burrfectionstore.com/collections/whetstones-sharpening-kits
Can anybody tell me the difference between Shapton Pro 100 and Shapton Glass 1000? I use knives made out of Aogami Super Blue steel. Looking to buy some decent stones to take care of them.
Hi. With the help of your videos, I am now into hand sharpening. i am wondering should i get king kds 1000 or cerax 1000 if i am only getting 1 stone only? Thanks
@@Burrfection i finally got my hand on KDS 1000 and very happy with this stone. I have never be able to sharpen my leather skiving knife to skive like butter. After sharpening on KDS 1000, I finally able to do that. Either its because of the stone or I have improved my technique (😅), i am over the moon with the sharpness from KDS 1000. thanks for the recommendation 😁
Ryki, in your head-to-head between Naniwa 1k and Shapton Glass 1k (ruclips.net/video/yhPRJiMXJU0/видео.html) you gave the win to Naniwa, and I was ready to make a purchase based on that but then found this where, at the end, you say you prefer the Shapton Glass. Can you comment/advise?
that review was MAINLY based on speed preference at the time. however, i have said in other videos, if speed was importance, the Chosera 800 is my preferred choice over the Chosera 1000. in this case, in overall feel, feedback, and speed of wear, the Glass makes for a more compelling whetstone for me at the 1000 grit range.
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
0:31 Whetstone Cutlery and Sharp Pebble 400/1000
1:31 King Deluxe 1000/6000
2:26 Shapton Pro 1000
3:04 Shapton Glass 1000
3:40 Kramer by Zwilling 1000
4:34 Naniwa Diamond 1000
6:27 Naniwa Superstone 1000
6:42 Naniwa Professional / Chosera 1000
8:27 Suehiro Cerax 1000
9:13 Suehiro Debado LD 101 (splash and go 1000)
11:19 Suehiro Debado MD 100
13:01 BEST $10-$20
13:20 BEST $20-$30
13:37 BEST $40-$50
13:58 Shapton Glass vs Kramer / Naniwa Professional
14:36 BEST SOAKER
14:40 BEST SPLASH AND GO
You used the word "snappy" several times… how would you describe/define that feeling?
With a Naniwa Professional 800 and a Shapton Glass 1000, I'm pretty good in this range, but I wouldn't mind trying the Cerax or Debado if you forced me! 🤣
Thanks Ryky!
Haved you try cetax 1000yet?
I just wondering shapton glass & Suehiro cerax 1000# which is best
he never answered what "snappy" meant...
@@mauwuang shapton is pretty dead, cerax has better feeling
@@Layarion means the tactile feedback
At one point I had a lot of 1k stones. I now use the Cerax 90% of the time and the Shapton Glass when I need something that will stay super flat throughout a long session. My only crazy stone collection these days is polishing stones. Whether natural or synthetic, I really enjoy the differences in polishing.
I bought a Naniwa combination stone 1000/3000 and a stone holder as my entry level stone . The stone was 49.00 Canadian . The Chosera Professional 800 is 99.00 Canadian from Knifewear in Canada . You're such an enabler Ricky lol , keep up the good work .
I thought I would be bored of whetstones by now. But you make it so interesting. Thank you.
Hello Ricky, it's been ages since I found my way to your channel. Awesome to see you have about 99k more subscribers now compared to the first time I found your old ricky tran channel. You're basically the guru of online sharpening and knife info by this point. Keep up the great work!
❤️ your hairstyles and the knowledge you pass on to your followers. INHO, the foremost expert on all makes of culinary knife ware and whetstones.
A beginer here. On your advice I got the PebbleStone 400/1000 stone. With your technique I have been able to sharpen my knifes. Wouldn't mind winning a stone to up higher on the sharpening/polishing scale.
Definitely really useful these top 10! I love the comparison of qualities and love my naniwa pro 800. Am always looking to expand upward though.
You keep this up Rycky!
Thanks for the feedback. I love my Chosera Stones!!! Great recommendations!!! ^_^
Great content Ricky.
1000 grit stones are the most used and, if it's the only stone you have it is acceptable, and as u said there's a large range of them for beginners and pros, and you're giving them away contributing back to your supporters. ( need a cerax 1000 XD, have a king KDS1000/6000, would love to feel how a cerax feels in comparison)
Long live the King!
I love my cerax 1k!
Nice video mate. Have been wondering what the debado’s were like.
Maybe there code is MD for massive debado and LD for little debado?
Glad to see your choices. Nice!
appreciate the video content. ive been looking for a new 1000.
It's hard to beat the Cerax 1000. You can get one from MTC Kitchen for $39. They offer coupons and discounts a lot on their website. I also purchased the Kitayama 8000 for $59. Using a 20% off coupon I got both stones for less than $80. Both stones are outstanding.
I hope you read your newer comments on your older videos. Your vids are timeless and such great info! So here is my question and the “why?”
I’m considered the “chef” in the family. Soooo, my older sister gave me her old paring knife. She loved it.
Maybe it had been nice at one point in time. I have no idea. It is stainless steel. It says Mercer on the blade. It honestly is fuller than a butter knife. I am not exaggerating.
So, I decided to learn and practice sharpening skills (your RUclips vids are outstanding).
I am learning knife sharpening from you because I love cooking and I love my sweet knives.
Before I had discovered your channel on RUclips I had a King 1000/6000 stone. So I started this paring knife on the 1000 side of the stone.
After 30 minutes there was nothing. So I went down to an 800. Still working on it. Any recommendations? This is my learning/practice knife. I want to be better at knife sharpening before a try sharpening my nice knives.
Dam that's sharp btw love your vids man
What happened to the TSUBOMAN Atoma 1200? I know it’s a diamond plate, not a stone, but in a past video, you said it might replace all of your 1000 grit stones. I’m curious why it is never mentioned on Burrfication anymore
Cuz it clearly didn’t (and can never) replace what a good whetstone has to offer. Trust me I own an atoma 1200 (and 120 and 400. All great but for different purposes) stones just feel better and honestly work faster in most cases
I take any whetstone that you wanting to give away trying to get a new one for work to keep my konosuke and dalstrong knives sharp. Great video by the way thanks for making help a lot with info
Love your vids man! Could you do a video sharpening super steel? Like M390 or even M4? Which stones are best? I know you did the Diamond stones about 2 weeks ago, but can you get away without diamond?
I will take the sick stones please! Although, dope does sound dope...sign me up for those as well! Great vids, I am new to sharpening and am learning a lot from you!
Hey ryky, wondering if you can do a scissors sharpening video in the future. I wonder if its same technique or skill to sharpen a scissors
Experience alone speaking, here... a LOT of it "bad" (lolz)...
BUT... (and hopefully, Ryky can give us a vid'... I'd love that)... In the meantime, let me offer a few...er... "questionable insights".
First, it kind of depends on the scissors (or shears) individually. Some can be taken apart into individual blades, and some... have to be "opened fully" and should be clamped or restrained for the purpose of sharpening... Dinging up the "wrong edge" in the middle of fixing them really REALLY SUCKS...
Otherwise, it's really important to point out that scissors are a SINGLE bevel cutting instrument WITH special nuance... Now, the single bevel part is important because it relegates MOST of the sharpening process to the "same old skill" for a single bevel.
The nuance is twofold... First, you only want the slightest micro-burr to develop. The "backside" of a scissors-blade has to be AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE... or in some cases very very slightly curved TOWARD the opposing blade... Moving too much metal by creating and removing a large burr will cause gaps.
The very very slight curve toward the opposite blade (along with flats) is to make that "slip-space" between scissors-blades as absolutely TINY as possible, while still allowing motion. The blades overlap as you "close" scissors, to force-wedge apart and mechanically separate the material you're cutting. ANY gap at all, allows thin materials to "fold into" that "slip-space" and "crimp" or "jam" the scissors instead of being cut.
NOW, you should be able to "play this game to it's goal of a good cutting edge" on scissors... BUT what else do you need to know?
Some scissors can be taken apart, separating the blades into individual cutting edges... BUT you have to put them back together. If using a bolt or a bolt and nut, this has a certain "torque spec"... That is, there's a special tightness for the bolt/nut in the scissors that presses the two blades together "just right" for cutting, while causing minimal friction and wear between them in use... Most of the time, with nuts involved, they're "locking nuts" so it's easy enough to just "tighten in steps" adding a bit of torque (around one-eighth turn at a time) and casually opening and closing the scissors a few cycles to "feel"... When you feel like it's "dragging about right" then you should try cutting something thin, like one layer of broad-cloth or a single leaf of relatively cheap/thin paper... Typing paper or standard printer stock is reasonable, but it depends on your scissors and desired purpose. NEVER EVER EVER USE CLOTH OR HAIR SCISSORS ON PAPER... I WILL FIND YOU AND HIT YOU. That's just one of the WORST crimes you can commit to wearing out your GOOD shears. (lolz... it's also a joke, since I'm not great on people-tracking... you can laugh)...
On those scissors that don't have a "locking nut" or similar function... When you use them, they will "loosen up" on you... This is ALSO a rather common flaw in older scissors, even great ones... There's a fairly cheap product called "Locktite" or "Threadlocker" that you can find at most hardware and automotive supply stores... AND usually there's bottles and tubes of it at places like Wally World or the hardware section of most department stores. A single drop of this stuff applied to the "bolt" before assembly (right at the tip of the threads) is enough to "lock" it in place when you've got the scissors tight enough. It's important to note that this stuff "sets up" overnight... so for the first four to six hours after you've found that "perfect drag" tightness (the same as before) you should just set the scissors down and leave them to cure. It saves you headaches and repeated tightenings later. AND it does NOT have to be the big red bottle of "baddest ass threadlocking compound ever"... so any reasonable threadlocker will do. "You don't have to hold elephants with it or nothin'..." as we often say around here.
AND some scissors are NOT meant to be taken apart...
Okay, sometimes they're held together by a "rivet"... SO for sharpening, a rubber-band is good enough to bind the blade-to-handle for the side you're not working on. Rubber-bands are cheap, and you can even fold a piece of thin cardboard (greeting or business card stock) over the "business edge" of a newly sharpened blade/edge to avoid breaking the rubberband, because that can get frustrating on some projects.
Now, remember how I said "sometimes the scissors just loosen up"???
Well, if you read this far, the you're interested (congrat's)... SO this is common with these "riveted together" scissors and shears too. You can find a solid surface (like a vice with anvil spot, heavy metal plate, anvil (obviously), or something just solid that you don't mind scarring up a bit... A small "flat ended" punch or bar, and a hammer... Careful to use the punch against the rivet so that the rivet is as vertical and steady as possible, a smart strike of the hammer will "crush" the rivet back toward it's original shape and tighten the scissors. Keep in mind that metal fatigue is a thing, and sooner or later the rivet will probably loosen again...
SOMETIMES, you can find a replacement bolt and nut for the job, and with a small drill bit for METAL, it's not too horrible a job to clamp the scissors down and drill out that old rivet and replace it. I would recommend (with bolts longer than necessary) that you put the scissors together with the bolt and nut FIRST, and THEN cut the excess off the bolt...
I'm putting this at the end, because MANY MANY TIMES, this "scissors tightening" is the ONLY thing I've had to do to "fix" a pair... ESPECIALLY an antique pair of scissors. if the blades "look good" in condition, then it's worth trying before you spend a lot of time and energy moving metal that doesn't necessarily need to be moved.
SO there you have it, approximately, the kinds of skills that go into sharpening scissors as opposed to knives. I've seen these requests before on Ryky's comment sections, and I just had to toss a bit of experience and observation... I'm admittedly still hit and miss on them, but I am a little more "hit" than "miss"... Hope you get something useful... AND have a like, since I would definitely agree, "A video of this sort of thing would be SO GREAT!"... wow... even for me, this is a GREAT wall of text. ;o)
Ryky! I love what you do man, keep up the amazing videos, broke college boy but the king 1000/6000 is the one thing I asked Santa for haha fingers crossed he’s real 😂😭😭
I'd like to see a vid focused on sharpening the common German steels.
the md 100 is not the largest 1k stone. you can get the shapton lr250 in 250x100 size. also, there is a big cerax 1k in the size of the md 100, but more than double in thickness.
Awesome videos!!!
Hi just wondering if you could sharpen a knife. By just pressing down on the edge of the knife until it touches the stone for finding the edge of the knife. Laying it flat across the stone
New subscriber, had been looking at purchasing new knife for new sous chef position, and stumbled across your channel. Love the content and openness of your content and thoroughness of all your subjects (just binged nearly all of your episodes!) Just bought an Enso Vegetable cleaver recently (holiday specials and all that), and have some Canshan (i know they aren't $1000 knives, but they were a wedding gift and I really really like them) and was wondering on a reasonable stone(s) for both, would a Cerax #1000 be a decent stone as all purpose, and possibly adding a finer grit in the near future?
Great vid as usual.
Thank you for all your hard work making these videos. I will be purchasing the King 1000 and King 6000 (S1) based on your recommendations. I really like that Cerax 1000 too, so might have to add that to the order.
Would these stones work on the new CTS XHP steel?
Oh, hi!
In these videos JIS ratings are mentioned? I ask this because there are several different ratings, and I assume this because most (all?) of these whetstones are japanese stones, if I am correct. Also, I have Tojiro/Fujitora stones: #200/#1000 grit combined: #220: little bit slurry, wears quickly, but looks usable with dull knife, #1000 wear? slur? what is it? :D I see some advancement on the knives when I use it. And I have a #4000 grit one also: slur? You will get it even in the ceiling! However, it can polish the blade nicely (I left it in water for too long and now it is full of cracks :S ) I guess these are JIS grated stones as well, as they are "Made In Japan" (let's ignore how the company measures grit right now, as we heard in the video that there are differences in it)
Ricky, thank you for your videos. They are very interesting and instructive. Could you, please, give us the shopping links or the stone list with their price range?
have a look around bur.re/stone
Loving the video Ryky, i have my knife as 65hrc and looking for a really good 1000grit stone for it
I´d love a good 1000 grit stone, thank you!
You just have everything earlier I was thinking I need a 1000 grit since I have a finishing stone and my 3000/8000 whostoff got dropped but they had so many great brands within £15 of each other.. anyway to make it short I thought if you and damn exactly what I need 😂
Question: should we expect any new code for Dalstrong this year? The one I tried codes from old videos are expired, and wanna get a couple for testing. Also please make a King W65 vs KDS for us to judge how the budget version performs
Hi Ricky just just your RUclips story and you had a global knife NI series please will you do a review on them as I've just got a full set for work thanks
Very good video .
Huh,the Suehiro Cerax 1000 grit I think is the best whetstone for mid range whetstone, a few days ago I just but it & wow, very-very good as heaven...great stone as well. C'mon
So Ricky (I'm sorry if I spell it wrong), I just got myself the cerax 1000 and tbh I'm kinda confuse where to start. And I've got some question to ask, hope you don't mind.
1. What should I do with that little stone I got alongside with the whetstone?
2. And is it okay if I only sharpen my knife with just Cerax 1000? Or do I need another stone with different grid?
3. What should I do to maintain my Cerax 1000?
I hope you can help me with all these questions. Thank you in advance!
Another great video, very informative, if you give away any stones below 700 grit or above 6000 I'd be excited to be considered, as I just got a king kds 1000/6000 and would like to get a good set of stones to cover most/all grit ranges
Keep up the good work and I can't wait for the next update on your under development line of knives
If you already have a king 1000/6000 all you need is a low grit stone like a 100 or 300 for fixing chips and regrinding a bevel. With those 2 ( actually 3) stones I wouldn't spend more money on sharpening supplies. Use your money for good knives instead
Chosera user here. But damn I would buy this larger Suehiro if I already didn`t have the choseras. Just for it`s larger size.
I did my own strop and it`s an 1 meter long strop. lol
Hi Ryky 😀 If you could pick between king hyper and cerax, which one would be?
Thank you!
Great video Ricky !! AND If you can send a stone my way I would appreciate it! I'm getting my nephew into sharpening, would be a good XMAS present to give this to him and a shortcut to your video... what do you think?
Hello,
I am wondering if you can look at the Tormek t2 sharpening system and what do you think about it?
Hi, great vids, very helpful. Question, if I buy a Cerax 1000 but don't intend to buy a higher grit stone to polish on, will this leave a burr on the edge? If it does, do I need to take it off the edge? Or have I not watched enough of your videos to find the answer to my question yet :-)?
Polishing/honing stone or a wooden plank or a cork if you're on a budget.
Between King Hyper 1000, suehiro debado ld 101 and sigma select II 1000, which one do you recommend? Thanks
Yeah, I could really use a dope whetstone Ryky.
@Burrfection
I have some JA Henckels 4 star knives. Looks like the Rockwell is around 57.
I have owned these for 20 years and I don't believe they have ever been sharpened. I want to buy a stone or two so I can put an edge on them.
Which stones are good for that hardness rating? Is the King 1000 a good stone for this? Or should I jump into the Shapton glass range?
Thanks
What about the Suehiro Debado SNE 1000 (SNE-1200)?
Question Ryki
How consistent are the brands-Meaning if you had a tan year old king 1000(low use so it is in good condition), does it feel like a new sample of the same stone?
Hello Ricky, I'm a beginner in sharpening and I bought Naniwa Super Stone 1000, but after that I see your coment for this stone and I wanna ask you is it have any kind of big problem with SS 1000? Is it a big mistake that I Will start with him to learning? :(
Thnks in advance
Hey burrfection and friends! I'm trying to figure out some good whetstones to get I'm a beginner so this will be my first one. I'm looking at the suehiro 1000/6000 doubled sided. What do you guys think?
Ryky I would love to get the Suehiro MD 1000 as a Christmas gift!! Thank you!!
Is the debado ld and md worth the extra money? I'm sick of the chosera cracks
I think my problem is starting at 3000 grit for my knives
Is there a big difference between the King KDS and KWS 1000/6000?
What about Suehiro Gokumyo stones (about 1000 grit)?
Hey RyKy, I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, but I’ve been looking for some information on the Kitayama #8000. I have looked up Kitayama on your channel and haven’t seen anything, but I see it on your recommendations on amazon. When can do you use the stone? Directly after sharpening on a #1000 or should I go 1000-3000-5000-8000? Any info will help, thank you so much for everything you do for us!
You can jump from 1000 to the Kitayama 8000, you will just spend a little more time there than if you do a progression of 1000-3000-5000-8000. I personally go 1000-3000-6000-8000 on cerax stones and just need 1 pass on each stone after the 1000. If your on a budget just get the Kitayama 8000 and skip the others. Its an excellent stone.
William Wulff thanks for the reply! I have the other stones as well, I will do it in that order then, thanks again!
Where you get the Damascus knife from? I'm tired of finding fakes.
And what if You have > 62HRC knife? I know, there's Hyper 1000, but I've see many videos, where people sharpen 62-63 blues and whites without any problem. Is it only the wear of softer KD?
king hyper is really nice, but much tougher and faster than the king deluxe. the naniwa pro 800 feels a bit better than the hyper, burrfectionstore.com/collections/whetstones-sharpening-kits
Can anybody tell me the difference between Shapton Pro 100 and Shapton Glass 1000? I use knives made out of Aogami Super Blue steel. Looking to buy some decent stones to take care of them.
Is there any way to recover a broken stone? Have solution?
Greetings from Brazil!
just use as normal. you'll have to take shorter strokes
Thanks Ryki, thanks for the tip! Would love to be considered for your giveaway!
Hi. With the help of your videos, I am now into hand sharpening. i am wondering should i get king kds 1000 or cerax 1000 if i am only getting 1 stone only? Thanks
If you have knives harder than 62 rockwell, go cerax
@@Burrfection i finally got my hand on KDS 1000 and very happy with this stone. I have never be able to sharpen my leather skiving knife to skive like butter. After sharpening on KDS 1000, I finally able to do that. Either its because of the stone or I have improved my technique (😅), i am over the moon with the sharpness from KDS 1000. thanks for the recommendation 😁
Does soaking stones soak faster when you use a vacuum sealer to forcefully remove the air while it's submerged under water?
hahah. i don't know. give it a try
Kai why haven't you tried American synthetics and smiths trihone with Arkansas stone?
you mean..... these ruclips.net/video/KbUbifaVunE/видео.html
LD = light density? . . . MD = medium density? Just a guess.
Woohoo! Let's do this!!
Finally some Debado!! Nice job Sir!!
the LD can stand for Little Dimension, and the MD can stand for More Dimension 😂😂
Ohh i want that md 100 please 😁
Ryki, what happened to your sound? It's gone all muffled ;-(
Count me in for that giveaway ;D
What can you say about Bester 1000?
not as good as the cerax 1K, but not a bad stone.
Pick me! I need some whetstones!
Hurray
I just purchased my first Set of Kamikoto Kanpeki Set What stone would you recommend for sharpening these Knifes
This will be my first time sharpening knives with Wet stone thank you for the videos
what was that knive in the thumpnail
Damascus Enso gyoto
burrfections.com/ensoHD enso SG2 chf knife
thanks
LAST!
sry bro xD
Naniwa Diamond doesnt contain any other abrasives than diamonds but Resin you Butthead😁
Ryki, in your head-to-head between Naniwa 1k and Shapton Glass 1k (ruclips.net/video/yhPRJiMXJU0/видео.html) you gave the win to Naniwa, and I was ready to make a purchase based on that but then found this where, at the end, you say you prefer the Shapton Glass. Can you comment/advise?
that review was MAINLY based on speed preference at the time. however, i have said in other videos, if speed was importance, the Chosera 800 is my preferred choice over the Chosera 1000. in this case, in overall feel, feedback, and speed of wear, the Glass makes for a more compelling whetstone for me at the 1000 grit range.
@@Burrfection Awesome, thank you! I just placed my order for a Chosera 800 and 3000. Time to start sharpening!
Am I to late :-)
Duh
So what about the diamond stones? Do u suggest any?
yup, i think i really need a 1000 grid stone, 2000 grid really is too slow for normal sharpening.
Grit*
tru dat