If you are patient and plan ahead, here is great fencing. Get cuttings of hybrid poplar. Plant in rows for fence posts. After 3-5 years pollard off the top and sell the cash crop. Cut to the desired height for your fencing needs. If you are raising reindeer(or keeping deer out) you may want 8 to 10 ft high. Horses you may want 5 to 8 ft high. Goats, sheep or cattle maybe 3 to 5 feet high. Then you have your "free" strong fenceposts, and future years of pollarding income from the fence. Of course you can run electric, barbed wire or whatever you deem suitable between the posts. Once you have planted a few of the trees you can get future cuttings from your own trees so there is no need for a big expense buying hundreds or thousands of cuttings. You can also plant rows where you may or may not need them so you can rotate your fencing/grazing or keep different animals or segregate for disease or pregnancy etc.
Very creative and I love it! Definitely takes some planning. I think I’m too impulsive and couldn’t practical wait that long but a great long term project.
I've offered this piece of advice to many people. Farming is a learning process. Whether you are building livestock structures , loading chutes or pasture fencing the one individual that will tell you if it will work is the animal. Pay attention to their habits and needs and it will all come together.
Thanks for the video! I've only got chickens so far, and even with just them, I agree that electric fence is the best deal. The issue for me is shorting where any bit of grass touching the bottom or sagging causes issues. I'll take a look at the product you use! Luckily, predator pressure isn't an issue so far. Thanks for the info.
So funny; Had a pregnant goat that looked as big as a baby elephant push under the fencing to get out! Thanks for the tips; I'll use them for my new pasture area.
Have an electronets where deer have become tangled and torn through, and another that hogs mangled. Have two where the conductors are fried into short segments. (Polywire woven intonyhr fence to make it somewhat usable.) 10% of my double spikes are now single. An 18" tube that slips over works well for making the parallel again. Very difficult to drive in a drought. Electronets are great temporary fence for a few years while getting the permanent fences squared away. But they are more expensive over time with a life of maybe five years. I've got two up at the moment as a night yard for the goats that can be dropped if i need more acess. I find field fence works best with offset electric to protect the wire. Paying twice to fence but it should last forever. Treating field fence as hi-tension or (medium) lets them work together. Good luck keeping them in and safe.
Yeah. I've not have experience yet with my electro-net ( have one for poultry, don't have any animals again yet tho, since moving back to home state and are still in a semi-suburban rental, BILs property so don't want animals til own place), but ditto on the rest. I grew up on a dairy farm. This is the reason for barbed wire all those decades - kept animals from rubbing on fence. If using any other kind of fence, you need either barbed wire or electric wire added to prevent that ( also, them sticking their head thru), not to say some won't still try eventually, esp./if fence sags, gaps widen. I wouldn't call it exactly fencing twice, cost OR effort wise, tho, to add a strand or 2 of one of those. You typically can use the same posts. Unless fencing to keep deer out, in which case you want a double fence a couple feet apart, which they don't like to jump. The thing is that sharing a post can be a lil tricky, if you're using, say, 4 ft. welded wire fencing and want a strand of electric wire down lowish on it, too. Assuming you're using metal posts between corners etc. ( don't see how plastic would be strong enough, and wood is lots more work if you don't have a power driver for those). You will need to add the insulator for the electric posts and slide down and secure in place, b4 securing the woven wire fence to the posts. May have to deal with a vertical wire being in the way if your posts are in place b4 fence is unrolled, which would be normal and hard to avoid. For wood, u can use screws, carefully ( I recommend pre-drilling the holes .. ) to attach insulators meant for rebar or T posts, or get ones meant for wood & wire them on or whatever it calls for. I have little experience with animals other than cattle, least of all with goats. It does sound like for pigs, a 2-strand electric wire fence works well ( so, still fairly mobile/portable, affordable and easier to splice, see where problem is, or replace as needed cheaper, than netting). If one moved them through the property ( keeping boredom at bay while practicing good land and animal stewardship), your perimeter fence doesn't have to bear the brunt of ever-present, curious and bored animals seeking adventure abroad. Aka time and focus to dig under it.
Hey! Thank for the comment. I leave enough room on the other side for my husband to get the lawn mower through. On that particular part of our property it will grow up quick with all kinds of stuff so leaving space for the mower makes it easy to maintain and yes it keeps stuff from growing on the fence that could cause it to short out.
If you are patient and plan ahead, here is great fencing. Get cuttings of hybrid poplar. Plant in rows for fence posts. After 3-5 years pollard off the top and sell the cash crop. Cut to the desired height for your fencing needs. If you are raising reindeer(or keeping deer out) you may want 8 to 10 ft high. Horses you may want 5 to 8 ft high. Goats, sheep or cattle maybe 3 to 5 feet high. Then you have your "free" strong fenceposts, and future years of pollarding income from the fence. Of course you can run electric, barbed wire or whatever you deem suitable between the posts. Once you have planted a few of the trees you can get future cuttings from your own trees so there is no need for a big expense buying hundreds or thousands of cuttings. You can also plant rows where you may or may not need them so you can rotate your fencing/grazing or keep different animals or segregate for disease or pregnancy etc.
Very creative and I love it! Definitely takes some planning. I think I’m too impulsive and couldn’t practical wait that long but a great long term project.
I've offered this piece of advice to many people. Farming is a learning process. Whether you are building livestock structures , loading chutes or pasture fencing the one individual that will tell you if it will work is the animal. Pay attention to their habits and needs and it will all come together.
Love this advice! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I like videos about fencing and watering. Basic stuff but important.
Thank you! Just documenting as we go. Learning a lot along the way.
Thank you! What a fabulous topic!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video! I've only got chickens so far, and even with just them, I agree that electric fence is the best deal. The issue for me is shorting where any bit of grass touching the bottom or sagging causes issues. I'll take a look at the product you use! Luckily, predator pressure isn't an issue so far. Thanks for the info.
Thank you so much for watching! Definitely my favorite fence I’ve used so far! I’ve tried a couple.
So funny; Had a pregnant goat that looked as big as a baby elephant push under the fencing to get out! Thanks for the tips; I'll use them for my new pasture area.
So wild! I had several that kept getting out and could not figure out how until I saw it with my own eyes. Still blows my mind.
Have an electronets where deer have become tangled and torn through, and another that hogs mangled.
Have two where the conductors are fried into short segments. (Polywire woven intonyhr fence to make it somewhat usable.)
10% of my double spikes are now single. An 18" tube that slips over works well for making the parallel again. Very difficult to drive in a drought.
Electronets are great temporary fence for a few years while getting the permanent fences squared away. But they are more expensive over time with a life of maybe five years.
I've got two up at the moment as a night yard for the goats that can be dropped if i need more acess.
I find field fence works best with offset electric to protect the wire. Paying twice to fence but it should last forever. Treating field fence as hi-tension or (medium) lets them work together.
Good luck keeping them in and safe.
Yeah. I've not have experience yet with my electro-net ( have one for poultry, don't have any animals again yet tho, since moving back to home state and are still in a semi-suburban rental, BILs property so don't want animals til own place), but ditto on the rest. I grew up on a dairy farm. This is the reason for barbed wire all those decades - kept animals from rubbing on fence. If using any other kind of fence, you need either barbed wire or electric wire added to prevent that ( also, them sticking their head thru), not to say some won't still try eventually, esp./if fence sags, gaps widen. I wouldn't call it exactly fencing twice, cost OR effort wise, tho, to add a strand or 2 of one of those. You typically can use the same posts. Unless fencing to keep deer out, in which case you want a double fence a couple feet apart, which they don't like to jump. The thing is that sharing a post can be a lil tricky, if you're using, say, 4 ft. welded wire fencing and want a strand of electric wire down lowish on it, too. Assuming you're using metal posts between corners etc. ( don't see how plastic would be strong enough, and wood is lots more work if you don't have a power driver for those). You will need to add the insulator for the electric posts and slide down and secure in place, b4 securing the woven wire fence to the posts. May have to deal with a vertical wire being in the way if your posts are in place b4 fence is unrolled, which would be normal and hard to avoid. For wood, u can use screws, carefully ( I recommend pre-drilling the holes .. ) to attach insulators meant for rebar or T posts, or get ones meant for wood & wire them on or whatever it calls for. I have little experience with animals other than cattle, least of all with goats. It does sound like for pigs, a 2-strand electric wire fence works well ( so, still fairly mobile/portable, affordable and easier to splice, see where problem is, or replace as needed cheaper, than netting). If one moved them through the property ( keeping boredom at bay while practicing good land and animal stewardship), your perimeter fence doesn't have to bear the brunt of ever-present, curious and bored animals seeking adventure abroad. Aka time and focus to dig under it.
are there issues with vegetation touching the fencing and short circuiting it? Do you have to keep it clear from the grass for it to work? Thanks!
Hey! Thank for the comment. I leave enough room on the other side for my husband to get the lawn mower through. On that particular part of our property it will grow up quick with all kinds of stuff so leaving space for the mower makes it easy to maintain and yes it keeps stuff from growing on the fence that could cause it to short out.
@@Ludlamfamilyfarm good to know, thanks for such a detailed video!
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LOL ! She keeps saying "X-scape" 🤣