Hi Paul and Mitch, A friend turned me on to your site a couple of years ago when you were building the Triumph (I used to build and ride Triumphs when I was younger) and I have become a stalwart fan of your videos and work since. I really enjoyed the shop tour; it is that of which one of my dreams is made. I congratulate you on 4 years and much more importantly, your return to good health. I wish you all the best and look forward to future videos.
Thank you Sandy! Yes, I feel very fortunate that my health has returned, and that my life is very full with good friends and interesting projects... Thanks for liking our videos!
Nice shop! Concerning the land speed fender... for what it's worth.... I happened to be watching this next to a 2023 SCTA rulebook and opened the M class: [for non stock fenders] the front wheel and tire shall be visible from either side for a continuous 210 degrees of their circumference. The front of the fender shall not extend lower than 5 inches above the horizontal line drawn through the front axle. The perimeter of the fender shall not be farther than 1.75 inches from the tread. The sides of the fender may fair into the fork tubes or tire, but shall not be over two inches wider overall than these parts.
"You've gotta have the tooling" is so true. I think the typical budget is like 1:1 for lathe to tooling cost for a garage shop and mills are even higher on the tooling to machine cost ratio. The lathe shop I worked in spent around $10k USD per month just on high speed steel drill bits. We didn't sharpen standard drill bits because the labor cost was too high compared to just buying a new HSS twist bit with a standard grind profile. We mostly used jobber length twist drills and if you know anything about drill bits y'all know jobber bits are really freaking spendy. Having letter, number, and metric twist drills around is really handy. There are all sorts of holes ya need to drill in those in-between sizes that need a specialized drill. We had to ream a lot of holes to size for threading and that gets real expensive, real fast when you have to buy a number, letter, and metric drill index and then do a second operation with a specific reamer to get the hole to the correct size to get the right thread profile.
The only thing better would be if this was in Smell o vision. I bet that shop smells great. Love this and thanks for the update on the blue bike. Heard to many more years and thanks
Thanks for taking us behind the scenes and sharing the shop and tools and projects! Tools really do make the man! Happy anniversary, looking forward to more great content! Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!
Nice shop, well lite, clean and organized. Everything mine is not. Whenever I use Never-seize I end up with that stuff EVERYWHERE. LOL Thanks for the tour.
The toolholders should be type Multifix size "E" and they are very common here in Germany. They should have a number like ED20100, which means size E, form D (square), slot hight 20mm, length 100mm. Hope that helps.
Good to hear you’re thinking about Bonneville. I’m hoping you’ll make it to the salt as I would like to meet you. I run BMST near the end of Aug. It’s been 4 years since we’ve been able to race between Covid and flooded salt these last two years. Maybe you can talk Tom into going again! I enjoy your videos.
happy birthday to the show.. April fourth is just around the corner... thanks for sharing and showing what it takes to deliver high quality consistently.. Peace mate
Thank you Paul! I haven't built a frame since 2019, but in the last few months I've discovered your channel via a friend and it's encouraged me to further my own designs! I've noticed many similar tools and practices in my own shop, will be looking forward to the next video!! We would also love to see some of your jigs and fixtures. Thank you 🥰
Thanks David.... For Jigs and fixtures see our (previous..) Shop Tour video, done 3 years ago. It was mostly about my bicycle frame and fork jigs / fixtures. I think you will like it...
Paul, you appear to have things well organized. That's one of my many faults, but I'm working on it. I definitely can see an improvement in my work from my attempt at organizing. I really enjoy your videos! Can't wait to see the Aermacchi run.
Hey Paul and Mitch, I'm in awe of your many talents. I'm sure that I wasn't here for the earliest videos, but have been around for quite a while, too. Much appreciation to you and Mitch...
Paul, your videos have been a blessing during my recovery from a TBI I sustained in 2017. Some of your aspects and approaches to nickel-silver brazing helped me understand the dynamics of my tube-set and lugs from a thermal perspective.
Really enjoyed the shop tour! What i didn't see though is how you store and organize fasteners, and standard hardware items. Thanks Mitch and Paul for another great video!
you sir have inspired so many thing for me, from having you on my radio show, to watching your weekly video's AND from reading your book, if viewers dont have your book shame on them, they need it!!! i hhave learned so much from watching you some videos i watch over and over picking up more info every time. your simple approach makes it easy for some of us harder headed ones. and not only that you got a camera man with the coolest name around! yeah... i may be biased on that lol. but again sir thank you for your sharing your vast knowledge with the world. you are a true legend.
Wow can't believe that its been 4 years. Congrats on so many great episodes. I wish I would have known about the shop tour as I did have one request to make. I always find it amazing how you go back into your filing system and find drawings and sketches from years ago. It would be interesting to see how your filing system works or how it is organized. I just bought 6" Mitutoyo calipers yesterday and they are nearing $200.
Paul, I have a 72 Aermacchi 350. I was thinking about going to salt flats also. I was clocked on highway going 89. “That was me not hunched over, normal up right riding position “ If the records going to broke it going to be by Aermacchi! Best of luck.
Hey Paul! Great to see you in such good shape and health. I wanted to ask you about sanding and polishing the Tiger cups engine. I really like the satin finish, so what where the grades of the sanding papers you used on it? Cheers!
Eric from Edmonton always enjoy watching your videos Paul look back at racing vintage motorcycles they where good days i with Alan demote on a triumph triple he lives in white rock now
I want to see whats in the toolboxes! Its always cool to see how other people lay theirs out. And is that a surface grinder I see back there? Thanks paul!
Thank you for the shop tour, you have quite a dream setup there! For a metric guy the imperial drill system seems somewhat complex with fraction, letter and number drills. From one oceans distance it also seems amazing how a sane, adult person can think it is absolutely normal to use wire and sheetmetal gages, that for me have no sense what so ever😀. I have often noticed you mix both inch and metric units in a same sentence, are Canadiens slightly stepping away from the dark side?
Just went to my tube of Autosol and was surprised it didn't say Solvol Autosol. When the hell did that change? I'll still say Solvol first. It'll be easier than naking the adjustment. 😊
What's the story with number drills and letter drills ?. I read somewhere it was so a unskilled person could go to the stores and identify what drill they needed to fit a drill bush etc. The number or letter would be stamped on the jig.
A city bike with no mudguards: more madness - perhaps even more so than the Excelsior crash as it is a quirk that is seemingly shared by the whole of north America. ps See the maddening effects of salt with SuperfastMatt & remember where your previous Aermacchi got nicked: don't go!
As you are in Canada, why are you using imperial (inches) measurement devices? Metric is the only way to go! *interesting fact, the true inch is based on Metric for accuracy.
It's tool legacy. As a septuagenarian I understand that you aren't going to replace all of your decades old measuring tools and imperial lead screws on your machine tools. At least I'm not.
I want to build a scooter. A ruckus style scooter, with minibike /kart style engine, with variable drive. Or just replace the engine and wheel Combo. With a swingarm and wheel, with a harbor freight/preditor (honda clone) engine, 212-224 cc. Non governored can produce about 10 hp with no internal modification. And full out race trimcan produce 35-40+. Im thinking closer to 20-25 hp, possibly add electric assist by front mount hub motor around 3kw, 72-96v, with a lithium battery capable of supplying 5500-6kw to the motor for short burst. With 1kw being roughly 1.25 hp, that equals more power than a 150cc scooter, with the addition of instant TQ! And set up the electronics to charge the battery slowly while riding through regenerative braking, working slightly constantly supplying nearly 0.100amps when the hub motor is producing enough voltage (spinning fast enough) and use excess power to charge the 12v system, with enough battery to get around 20 miles range. And while at home use ariund 300-600 watts of solar to charge to 90-95% of the max voltage. With the hills we have he here, the regen will probably ectend the range 4-5 Miles. Look into a completely different engine charging system, allow the small current charging system to charge capacitors then use a dc buck converter to output 13.8-14.4v most engines only charge enough to recharge the battery from starting the engine, 1-2 amps peak. Maybe add neodymium magnets, and allow the charge coils to run at full power possibly outputting 60v+/-?. Possibly look into Clamping peak voltage to around that 60 v range. While charging a small bank of capacitors after rectified then a dc to dc buck converter. Capable of 5-10 amps setup to output the 13.8v-14.4v. look into the voltage drop of the cap bank, keep this voltage current curve near the maximum wattage , basically acting as a mppt solar charge controller, maybe program a micro controller to vary the frequency or pulse width of the switching to. Produce that 14v charge voltage . If the battery is charged no lights onthe system can nearly shut off. With LED lighting 1.5-2amps can be bright, 10-15 watts for a headlight and 0.5 watts fir turn signal and 5watt brakeabd 0.5watt tail light 28 watts would be 2amps at 14v. So 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 amps maybe 2 amps with turn signals. And the horn cant be too much i dont recall even using mine except for accidentally.. it should run with the small motorcycles. Atleast. But i would love to build one with a roughly 440 cc snow sled engine maybe larger, possibly run a AMR500 SUPERCHARGER, ON the two stroke engine build a manifold on the inlet side of the supercharger and install (up to) 4 identical carburators that the engine came with. It should produce around a 50% power gain. And add a good chambered exhaust. Difficult on a scooter with two cylinders. Maybe hydro forming the chambers , and working to incorporate mufflers or silencing into the expansion chambers. Make them double walled with about 12mm gap between. To alliw ceramic wooland drill patches of 1.0-1.5mm holes on the inside wall where the flow will not be hurt. Making it easier to silence afterwards with a muffler built similar, but smaller. A possibility 200-250 mm long 50 mm tube, with 25 mm holy inner tube. Wrapped with ceramic wool And capped on the ends. With 1mm holes in 3mm centers covering the whole tube except for about 20 mm on each end to allow cap and connections to the tubes and a outlet. Tunning a 75-100 mm widev 12"-14" rear rim hopefully a superbike style tire. Can be found. 140-160mm wide and low profile with a similar 120 front tire. Getting 100hp from a supercharged two cylinder two stroke shouldn't be difficult especially with a good exhaust. Maybe a bit much for a street scooter. Definitely make a nice drag scoot! Probably use a 13" x 7" to 13" x 10" rim with a drag slick. I saw a scooter with a 1000cc sport bike engine, 😮 thats insane, i could totally build one in a shop like yours!!
My Aermacchi is going to the Salt Flats, unless it gets cancelled again. There is a product sold down there called "Salt Away" and I will be using it. When I get home the bike will be stripped down completely, and taken care of. I believe in using motorcycles, if possible. And getting a Speed Record would be a Great Feeling...
I also have number drills Huot St Paul made in the USA and amazingly useful also a set of Metric drills in increments up to 6mm but each drill goes up in 0.1 mm increments so just between 5mm and 6mm it goes 5.0,5.1,5.2 etc and it does that from 0.1 mm at the start amazingly useful when working in metric. One tool I made up for the Mill is a holder that takes blades from a Manual 4 inch O ring cutting tool made for V 8's for cutting O ring grooves where you put stainless 41 thou safety wire into the groove that you cut to a depth I usually cut the groove 32 thou deep so when lightly tapped in with a plastic mallet there remains 9 thou proud.These cutting blades are tapered as to clear a round groove being cut When used with a conventional head gasket the O ring groove is placed abouthalf way across the Fire ring and it makes for a tough seal especially for turbo charged engines, The ultimate seal though consists of two O ring grooves in the block and one in the head on a BAH Keith Black Blown Alcahol 526 Cu Inch engine used in a drag racing Hydroplanes this particular engine ran 15 to 1 compression static then 45 PSI boost on a PSI Blower on top of that so effectively 2500 HP plus on a glorified paddle pop stick on water. All the engines that were O ringed were milled with the block on a fixture that the Main Bearing Tunnel sat on so when decked the surface was square to the crank, These blocks were then O ring grooved with the tool I made before removal from the fixture, They have included Nissan RB Engines, assorted V8's assorted four cylinder turbo engines including Cosworth and Lancia Delta Integrale etc as the tool I made fits into an adjustable boring head allowing for different bore sizes to be accomadated These blocks were if required bored with the old school strap on type Boring bar as that then guaranteed the bore was vertical to the crank axis, Something there is no guarantee of with later Milling Machine style Boring machines, With those most of which have a long extended column dropping down to the block to be bored tend to vibrate and chatter meaning you have to leave say 5 thou to allow cleaning up the boring marks by Honing. Wheras with the strapon one can bore to withing 1 thou and clean up all boring marks perfectly at that measurement so the cost of Sunnen Hone stones with the later Milling Machine style equipment where one has to leave 5 thou to guarantee cleaning up all the boring marks is well evident not a good thing either cost wise or accuracy wise. Something to be aware of when choosing a Machine shop for your engine machining, Long winded but important information to be aware of when choosing a Machine shop not all are created equal.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Always a lesson to learn in your shop. Thanks.
Thanks Ian... and I'm still learning too!
4 years!! I’ve been here the entire time and still get just as excited to see that you’ve posted a new video. Congratulations Paul and Mitch!!!
Well.... Four Years as of April 4th. Thanks Rick!
Always enjoy every video! Glad you hit the four year mark! Great work Paul and Mitch!
Thanks David. Yes, Four Years is a good Milestone!
Hi Paul and Mitch,
A friend turned me on to your site a couple of years ago when you were building the Triumph (I used to build and ride Triumphs when I was younger) and I have become a stalwart fan of your videos and work since. I really enjoyed the shop tour; it is that of which one of my dreams is made. I congratulate you on 4 years and much more importantly, your return to good health.
I wish you all the best and look forward to future videos.
Thank you Sandy! Yes, I feel very fortunate that my health has returned, and that my life is very full with good friends and interesting projects... Thanks for liking our videos!
Nice shop! Concerning the land speed fender... for what it's worth.... I happened to be watching this next to a 2023 SCTA rulebook and opened the M class:
[for non stock fenders] the front wheel and tire shall be visible from either side for a continuous 210 degrees of their circumference. The front of the fender shall not extend lower than 5 inches above the horizontal line drawn through the front axle. The perimeter of the fender shall not be farther than 1.75 inches from the tread. The sides of the fender may fair into the fork tubes or tire, but shall not be over two inches wider overall than these parts.
"You've gotta have the tooling" is so true. I think the typical budget is like 1:1 for lathe to tooling cost for a garage shop and mills are even higher on the tooling to machine cost ratio. The lathe shop I worked in spent around $10k USD per month just on high speed steel drill bits. We didn't sharpen standard drill bits because the labor cost was too high compared to just buying a new HSS twist bit with a standard grind profile. We mostly used jobber length twist drills and if you know anything about drill bits y'all know jobber bits are really freaking spendy.
Having letter, number, and metric twist drills around is really handy. There are all sorts of holes ya need to drill in those in-between sizes that need a specialized drill. We had to ream a lot of holes to size for threading and that gets real expensive, real fast when you have to buy a number, letter, and metric drill index and then do a second operation with a specific reamer to get the hole to the correct size to get the right thread profile.
Looking forward to the aermacchi fender!
The only thing better would be if this was in Smell o vision. I bet that shop smells great.
Love this and thanks for the update on the blue bike.
Heard to many more years and thanks
Thank you. Yes, each shop does have its' own unique smell... some better than others!
Its nice to get a look round .
Thanks Tom.. I agree! It was fun making that video...
Thanks for taking us behind the scenes and sharing the shop and tools and projects! Tools really do make the man! Happy anniversary, looking forward to more great content! Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!
Thank you very much. Yes, this is am exciting time for my little shop!
Ah the mulitifix quick change tool post. There are loads of tool holders for sale on ebay in the UK
Wow! Paul! It’s been a few months since I’ve tuned in, and you’re looking fantastic! Keep up whatever you’re doing, it’s working!
Nice shop, well lite, clean and organized. Everything mine is not. Whenever I use Never-seize I end up with that stuff EVERYWHERE. LOL Thanks for the tour.
The toolholders should be type Multifix size "E" and they are very common here in Germany. They should have a number like ED20100, which means size E, form D (square), slot hight 20mm, length 100mm. Hope that helps.
Excellent video, glad to see the hairdo is beginning to evolve again
I really enjoy your videos! I own 2 fillet brazed Schwinns from the early 1970s and it’s great to see you do that work.
Wish I had a shop like this.... And also the skill and experience to use half the tools. 😂
I want to see the workshop from the beginning, pour ING the concrete floor, and how you made the shop to your specs
Happy Anniversary- it’s been a great 4 years of stopping by and learning from the master. 👍😎👍
Thanks Joel. Anniversary is actually April 4, very soon...
Good to hear you’re thinking about Bonneville. I’m hoping you’ll make it to the salt as I would like to meet you. I run BMST near the end of Aug. It’s been 4 years since we’ve been able to race between Covid and flooded salt these last two years. Maybe you can talk Tom into going again! I enjoy your videos.
Thanks George. We will be down there if it's not cancelled. Tom Mellor will be down there as a spectator. Let's hope it all goes to plan...
happy birthday to the show.. April fourth is just around the corner... thanks for sharing and showing what it takes to deliver high quality consistently.. Peace mate
Nothing to say just an obligatory algorithm boost for the channel 👍👍
Thank you Paul! I haven't built a frame since 2019, but in the last few months I've discovered your channel via a friend and it's encouraged me to further my own designs! I've noticed many similar tools and practices in my own shop, will be looking forward to the next video!! We would also love to see some of your jigs and fixtures. Thank you 🥰
Thanks David.... For Jigs and fixtures see our (previous..) Shop Tour video, done 3 years ago. It was mostly about my bicycle frame and fork jigs / fixtures. I think you will like it...
Of course we want to watch! You are a wealth of knowledge. Well done Sir! And Mitch too!
Nice shop, congratulations Paul.
Happy 4th anniversary Paul! Always great watching your well presented vids. Cheers from South Africa
Thank you Peter. Greetings to you in South Africa....
Great tour! Its as if my shop got 6x bigger and had room for the big tools (lathe, mill, etc)
Love you guys. Keep posting!
Paul, you appear to have things well organized. That's one of my many faults, but I'm working on it. I definitely can see an improvement in my work from my attempt at organizing. I really enjoy your videos! Can't wait to see the Aermacchi run.
I really enjoyed it, and I still love the beauty of Excelsior.😊
Thanks for sharing info on that gorgeous blue bicycle!!!
Hey Paul and Mitch, I'm in awe of your many talents. I'm sure that I wasn't here for the earliest videos, but have been around for quite a while, too. Much appreciation to you and Mitch...
Paul, your videos have been a blessing during my recovery from a TBI I sustained in 2017. Some of your aspects and approaches to nickel-silver brazing helped me understand the dynamics of my tube-set and lugs from a thermal perspective.
Really enjoyed the shop tour! What i didn't see though is how you store and organize fasteners, and standard hardware items. Thanks Mitch and Paul for another great video!
you sir have inspired so many thing for me, from having you on my radio show, to watching your weekly video's AND from reading your book, if viewers dont have your book shame on them, they need it!!! i hhave learned so much from watching you some videos i watch over and over picking up more info every time. your simple approach makes it easy for some of us harder headed ones. and not only that you got a camera man with the coolest name around! yeah... i may be biased on that lol. but again sir thank you for your sharing your vast knowledge with the world. you are a true legend.
I like how the rag segment is right next to the metrology segment. Shows you how all tools are equally important.
Wow can't believe that its been 4 years. Congrats on so many great episodes. I wish I would have known about the shop tour as I did have one request to make. I always find it amazing how you go back into your filing system and find drawings and sketches from years ago. It would be interesting to see how your filing system works or how it is organized. I just bought 6" Mitutoyo calipers yesterday and they are nearing $200.
Happy channel birthday 🎉!
Thank you Tim. Yes, hard to believe 4 years!!
Super workshop and well kitted out. Keep up the great content.😊👍
Always looking for your videos to post, above all the rest! Thanks Paul and Mitch!
Paul, if you did some decals like the one on the garage door and wall, I'd definitely get a couple. Congratulations on the Anniversary!
Sure would like to see you do something with the Ducati!
Great tour Paul and Mitch. What a wonderful space to work in. Best wishes, Dean.
Paul, I have a 72 Aermacchi 350. I was thinking about going to salt flats also. I was clocked on highway going 89. “That was me not hunched over, normal up right riding position “ If the records going to broke it going to be by Aermacchi! Best of luck.
Happy anniversary
Congrats Paul and Mitch on 4 yrs 👏👏👏👌Cheers Chris
Love it very informative.
Great shop !!!
Man i want a excelsior frame and fork for a pedal bike😊
Hey Paul! Great to see you in such good shape and health. I wanted to ask you about sanding and polishing the Tiger cups engine. I really like the satin finish, so what where the grades of the sanding papers you used on it? Cheers!
One of your Excelsiors was up for auction at Iconic - don't see it on their site now though?
Great Video - I label my consumables with the date and purchase price. It is scary to look at the purchase price today....
I agree!! Nice tour!! 😊
Eric from Edmonton always enjoy watching your videos Paul look back at racing vintage motorcycles they where good days i with Alan demote on a triumph triple he lives in white rock now
Show us the paint shop!
Thanks for the shop tour. My shop has almost the same equipment as yours, it just lacks your skill an ambitious 😅.
hy paul, your toolholders appear to be AXA or From Hahn und Kolb. Usualy they are all Multifix systems and it sems u have size A i believe
Wild that it's already been 4 years! Although this was about the time I was laid off during COVID and found your channel 😅
I want to see whats in the toolboxes! Its always cool to see how other people lay theirs out. And is that a surface grinder I see back there?
Thanks paul!
Thank you for the shop tour, you have quite a dream setup there!
For a metric guy the imperial drill system seems somewhat complex with fraction, letter and number drills. From one oceans distance it also seems amazing how a sane, adult person can think it is absolutely normal to use wire and sheetmetal gages, that for me have no sense what so ever😀. I have often noticed you mix both inch and metric units in a same sentence, are Canadiens slightly stepping away from the dark side?
Thanks
Bangs!
Just went to my tube of Autosol and was surprised it didn't say Solvol Autosol. When the hell did that change? I'll still say Solvol first. It'll be easier than naking the adjustment. 😊
2:21 You can never spoil bike paint by riding it. You only give it character. Transportation/storage scratches make me sad however.
I think you are talking about "Patina". Yes, that can be a wonderful thing. Thanks for watching...
Would it be sacrilege to put a kill switch on the Excelsior?
Paul.... do you still have the TRS?.... I have a 2016 Evo250.
What's the story with number drills and letter drills ?. I read somewhere it was so a unskilled person could go to the stores and identify what drill they needed to fit a drill bush etc. The number or letter would be stamped on the jig.
Used to be recommended tapping sizes for BSF & Whitworth threads.
A city bike with no mudguards: more madness - perhaps even more so than the Excelsior crash as it is a quirk that is seemingly shared by the whole of north America. ps See the maddening effects of salt with SuperfastMatt & remember where your previous Aermacchi got nicked: don't go!
❤
Hi Paul don't leave the Arremaki unattended on your way to the salt flats remember what happened your other one anyway best of luck with it yea ✌
Young and reckless. Man, I miss those days. Yeah. Peace
Never too late to be reckless. ;)
As you are in Canada, why are you using imperial (inches) measurement devices?
Metric is the only way to go!
*interesting fact, the true inch is based on Metric for accuracy.
It's tool legacy. As a septuagenarian I understand that you aren't going to replace all of your decades old measuring tools and imperial lead screws on your machine tools. At least I'm not.
In Canada, our biggest customers are in America, and they are too stubborn to accept metric
Cheers Paul, looking fitter and healthier every video brother!
Thanks Pete. Yes, I am doing my best to keep healthy!
like from UKRAINE👍🇺🇦💪
That old white lithium grease smell like old sweaty------ bad
I want to build a scooter. A ruckus style scooter, with minibike /kart style engine, with variable drive. Or just replace the engine and wheel Combo. With a swingarm and wheel, with a harbor freight/preditor (honda clone) engine, 212-224 cc. Non governored can produce about 10 hp with no internal modification. And full out race trimcan produce 35-40+. Im thinking closer to 20-25 hp, possibly add electric assist by front mount hub motor around 3kw, 72-96v, with a lithium battery capable of supplying 5500-6kw to the motor for short burst. With 1kw being roughly 1.25 hp, that equals more power than a 150cc scooter, with the addition of instant TQ! And set up the electronics to charge the battery slowly while riding through regenerative braking, working slightly constantly supplying nearly 0.100amps when the hub motor is producing enough voltage (spinning fast enough) and use excess power to charge the 12v system, with enough battery to get around 20 miles range. And while at home use ariund 300-600 watts of solar to charge to 90-95% of the max voltage. With the hills we have he here, the regen will probably ectend the range 4-5 Miles. Look into a completely different engine charging system, allow the small current charging system to charge capacitors then use a dc buck converter to output 13.8-14.4v most engines only charge enough to recharge the battery from starting the engine, 1-2 amps peak. Maybe add neodymium magnets, and allow the charge coils to run at full power possibly outputting 60v+/-?. Possibly look into Clamping peak voltage to around that 60 v range. While charging a small bank of capacitors after rectified then a dc to dc buck converter. Capable of 5-10 amps setup to output the 13.8v-14.4v. look into the voltage drop of the cap bank, keep this voltage current curve near the maximum wattage , basically acting as a mppt solar charge controller, maybe program a micro controller to vary the frequency or pulse width of the switching to. Produce that 14v charge voltage . If the battery is charged no lights onthe system can nearly shut off. With LED lighting 1.5-2amps can be bright, 10-15 watts for a headlight and 0.5 watts fir turn signal and 5watt brakeabd 0.5watt tail light 28 watts would be 2amps at 14v. So 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 amps maybe 2 amps with turn signals. And the horn cant be too much i dont recall even using mine except for accidentally.. it should run with the small motorcycles. Atleast. But i would love to build one with a roughly 440 cc snow sled engine maybe larger, possibly run a AMR500 SUPERCHARGER, ON the two stroke engine build a manifold on the inlet side of the supercharger and install (up to) 4 identical carburators that the engine came with. It should produce around a 50% power gain.
And add a good chambered exhaust. Difficult on a scooter with two cylinders. Maybe hydro forming the chambers , and working to incorporate mufflers or silencing into the expansion chambers. Make them double walled with about 12mm gap between. To alliw ceramic wooland drill patches of 1.0-1.5mm holes on the inside wall where the flow will not be hurt. Making it easier to silence afterwards with a muffler built similar, but smaller. A possibility 200-250 mm long 50 mm tube, with 25 mm holy inner tube. Wrapped with ceramic wool And capped on the ends. With 1mm holes in 3mm centers covering the whole tube except for about 20 mm on each end to allow cap and connections to the tubes and a outlet. Tunning a 75-100 mm widev 12"-14" rear rim hopefully a superbike style tire. Can be found. 140-160mm wide and low profile with a similar 120 front tire. Getting 100hp from a supercharged two cylinder two stroke shouldn't be difficult especially with a good exhaust. Maybe a bit much for a street scooter. Definitely make a nice drag scoot! Probably use a 13" x 7" to 13" x 10" rim with a drag slick. I saw a scooter with a 1000cc sport bike engine, 😮 thats insane, i could totally build one in a shop like yours!!
Too fast. So many details in the background. Great photos and stories of the land.
Don't take the Aeromacchi to the salt. It will ruin it. No matter how hard you try, you'll never get it clean. Sorry for being a killjoy.
My Aermacchi is going to the Salt Flats, unless it gets cancelled again. There is a product sold down there called "Salt Away" and I will be using it. When I get home the bike will be stripped down completely, and taken care of. I believe in using motorcycles, if possible. And getting a Speed Record would be a Great Feeling...
@@paulbrodie Amen.
Did you make the forks on the Excelsior?If so you got to show us how.You make OCC look like a bunch of overrated punks
I also have number drills Huot St Paul made in the USA and amazingly useful also a set of Metric drills in increments up to 6mm but each drill goes up in 0.1 mm increments so just between 5mm and 6mm it goes 5.0,5.1,5.2 etc and it does that from 0.1 mm at the start amazingly useful when working in metric.
One tool I made up for the Mill is a holder that takes blades from a Manual 4 inch O ring cutting tool made for V 8's for cutting O ring grooves where you put stainless 41 thou safety wire into the groove that you cut to a depth I usually cut the groove 32 thou deep so when lightly tapped in with a plastic mallet there remains 9 thou proud.These cutting blades are tapered as to clear a round groove being cut
When used with a conventional head gasket the O ring groove is placed abouthalf way across the Fire ring and it makes for a tough seal especially for turbo charged engines, The ultimate seal though consists of two O ring grooves in the block and one in the head on a BAH Keith Black Blown Alcahol 526 Cu Inch engine used in a drag racing Hydroplanes this particular engine ran 15 to 1 compression static then 45 PSI boost on a PSI Blower on top of that so effectively 2500 HP plus on a glorified paddle pop stick on water.
All the engines that were O ringed were milled with the block on a fixture that the Main Bearing Tunnel sat on so when decked the surface was square to the crank, These blocks were then O ring grooved with the tool I made before removal from the fixture, They have included Nissan RB Engines, assorted V8's assorted four cylinder turbo engines including Cosworth and Lancia Delta Integrale etc as the tool I made fits into an adjustable boring head allowing for different bore sizes to be accomadated
These blocks were if required bored with the old school strap on type Boring bar as that then guaranteed the bore was vertical to the crank axis, Something there is no guarantee of with later Milling Machine style Boring machines, With those most of which have a long extended column dropping down to the block to be bored tend to vibrate and chatter meaning you have to leave say 5 thou to allow cleaning up the boring marks by Honing.
Wheras with the strapon one can bore to withing 1 thou and clean up all boring marks perfectly at that measurement so the cost of Sunnen Hone stones with the later Milling Machine style equipment where one has to leave 5 thou to guarantee cleaning up all the boring marks is well evident not a good thing either cost wise or accuracy wise.
Something to be aware of when choosing a Machine shop for your engine machining, Long winded but important information to be aware of when choosing a Machine shop not all are created equal.
Thanks for showing us around your shop and fantastic tools and machines👍🏻😎