3D Printing Our First Car Parts!
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- In today's episode we are 3d printing a custom designed vent for the wide body Huracan.
If you're in the market for a printer head to www.creality.c...
And if you want to learn more about 3d printing and all other sorts of fun stuff check out Matthew's channel at
/ designprototypetest
And vote for your favorite SEMA Young Guns Build at www.semayounggu...
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
When you need multiple pieces to make your new part try molding in roll pin holes that can be used to align and hold the pieces together for bonding.
pins, or puzzle piece types of edges that will align the pieces together.
@@codyrebernak Or, puzzle-piece-type edges that actually snap together. Works a treat.
@@codyrebernak the word is 'joint'
If you enable Ironing while slicing in Cura, it massively improves the final product without so many print lines and really doesn't add too much more in overall time because you don't have to sand it nearly as much
Wont work on these parts, ironing only works on flat surfaces, since these are slightly curved, and printed upside down, it would result in just a small strip on the inside of the vent being slightly smoother. He just needs a bigger gap between his supports and part so the support removes easily and not leave him with a mesh textured part.
Since they're covered in CF he just needs to orient the part vertically to print. That's how I do all my vents. I use ABS for them though petg is too stringy and too much processing. Nobody got time for post processing. Let the printer do the work. Problem is by the time the video is out hes already got both of then done anyway.
@@idokwatcher2062 right now it's just the parts for my e46. I have a few pics of them on my Instagram @kurtemigh some top fender vents and wheel well vents. Working on the rears now.
I've been 3d printing scale car parts for hot wheels for about 2 years on various types of printers. I've just started printing stuff for my car.
Oh theres a multi gauge cluster switch panel on there I did as well
I 3d print a lot of things regularly. For these
parts it's better to print them vertically so that the curve goes on the z axis which will look a lot better. You also will need less supports to remove.
Yeah, that is exactly what I was about to say.
Reminds me of those old anti-piracy adds that said yOu wOulDn'T DoWnlOad A cAr lol guess it's a reality now.
😂😂 wow he really is downloading a car hahaha
you mean guess it's a Creality now...
Except that: He's downloading his own car build.
I'll just leave this here - ruclips.net/video/xuxO6CZptck/видео.html
@@Ryan-mg7pd Wrong ot was you wouldn't STEAL a car
Printed the vents vertically with the "cut" on the build plate. It will eliminate support, drastically reducing post processing time. In addition, you have to remember that the weakest point of a print is the point where the 2 layers meet. Printing vertically will give you the maximum strength needed in the vent walls (the part you're screwing into) and prevent them from peeling off at high speeds.
Vertical will put the weak point on the stressed area. He is printing them in the strongest way possible. Really doesn't matter once he CF's them but with a cross hatch through the main body and not layer lines through the entire thing he has a super strong part.
@@legionof0ne441 Being someone who has a 3D printer, trust me, he puts them on the side of his car and attempts to go 100mph, they'll peel right off where the tabs meet the vent. In between layers is the weakest part, and that just so happens to be where the tabs are being held on.
Though, since he's coving them in CF, like you said, they're really just to hold a shape, not structural, so it doesn't really matter. Printing vertically will just give him nice looking parts that need 5% the post processing that these ones did.
@@legionof0ne441 I agree with Nathan. If he prints them vertically, when he puts the parts on the car, the layer lines will be vertical where he attaches them. The way he is printing them right now makes the layer lines horizontal on the part where the screws will go and can make the part split when enough air pressure of put under them.
When splitting prints if you puzzle piece the edges in some way like a dovetail in wood working they align much easier and more consistent as well as making it stronger
That was my first thought when I saw him slice his piece in a straight line.
Thanks Matthew for having a thing-a-switch to fix the dot matrix printer. wow Good job all.
is this gonna be the new copypasta? :)
Hey Chris, I'd recommend using a solution designed to merge plastics together, like super glue or an epoxy instead of using a 3D printing pen. The glue will take some time to cure, but will result in a much stronger part since you're joining two planes together, rather than just a line around the perimeter of the parts. Good luck!
Agreed. When i assemble 3d printed parts i usually run sometime of common wood working joinery like half laps or dove tails. Sand and epoxy.
If this was going as is on the outside of the car, I'd agree with you, but he did say they were going to be covered in Carbon Fiber. I think these are moreso just for shape and the CF with provide the necessary strength
There are dedicated plastic welders for things like fixing bumpers.
Cyanoacrylate superglue for sticking PLA together (even works for your fingers)
Not sure if it works for polyurethane
Astro hot staple gun will melt staples across and bridge very strong. Can fix any broken plastics with it. Great item for shop and not expensive.
Print them with the side you "welded together" on the bottom. this will help with printing(no need for supports, saves filament) and it will also help when "welding" together. I love your builds!
Came to say this, part will look a hundred times better
Looked like a lot of filament in the supports - not only saved filament but potentially significant TIME savings as well, right? Title slide showed 32 days to sema, then he used 4 on the trial run? At this point I'd be much more worried about time than $$!
@@super_slo he would probably cut his print time in half
You know he’s a coder when his first print is “hello world”
Shoulda been a 3D boat benchy
lmao!
Bryan Slankster I think you need some more sleep brother. You seem grumpy.
hahaha true heart programmer "hello world", i think hello world fist come from microsoft visual basic..
Bryan Slankster Sorry mane. Can't say I'm attracted to men. Just telling a keyboard warrior to settle down.
Man this build has it all! Custom chassis, custom carbon, 3d printing... Keep on going! B is still for Badass!
Welcome to the world of 3D printing.. multiple failures is the path to mastering it.. Having some one with experience to help is nice.. helps out allot.. they know what to look for.
When you're having to join pieces, why not create an overlap lip that one side will sit on too of, maybe even some basic clips to help aline the two pieces
Design Prototype Test is by far one of my favorite printing channels! Tells things how they are from his perspective. Long videos that you never skip through
The next project will be “3D printing a whole car” lol
I want one now
RE30RN there is a guy that printed a whole car.
J Squad really? Send me the link I wanna check it out
Ok let me find it
Laser Sterling here on youtube is already doing that. 😁
ruclips.net/video/GULjca-2V5w/видео.html
My favorite thing about this channel is that you are willing to try ANYTHING so cool! Much respect! Every time I watch these videos it gets my gears turning and makes me want to build things myself!
On the time laps put a clock in the shot just to see how long it actually takes
Chris, I hope to grow as much as you have. You have so much success and have learned so much by trial and error, and education. You are so motivating and have helped me to motivate my followers through my BMW Engine Swaps. Thank you again.
Frank
So far I’ve printed these bits for my kit car
Diffuser. Printed in 8” sections with mortise and tenon joints between them, clamped together on a board to hold them in position while I bonded them together.
Bracket. To hold the Anderson plug for battery charging.
Switch panel. Fits inside the top half of the centre console. Incorporates an LCD screen to show switch status. Also the mountings for the panel.
All the text parts for the engine cover.
New filler caps for the three tanks in the engine bay with the prancing horse on.
New cold air induction pipes for the engine, including the flexible hoses. (21 hours each to print.)
Water proof enclosures to house the Arduino that control the lights and indicators at the front.
Badge mountings on the grill.
Can’t remember the rest, but there’s quite a few.
Is the car N/A or FI? I have seen FI cars compress silicon hoses so would be worried the printed part could collapse under pressure of boost? What filament did you use?
Adam. It's a Mercedes SL500 engine ( it’s a complete SL500 ) so it’s 4.9 litre V8 peaking at just over 6,000 rpm so it’s pulling in a fair bit of air and I’ve never had a problem. After Persistent problems with layering using ABS I now use PLA but anneal all my prints at 95/100 C for about an hour so it’s easy to print and is dimensional stable. I can’t remember what I used for the hoses but they are corrugated for strength.
@@mickcoomer9714 That's awesome thanks for the info. I was looking at making a few parts but was always worried that they'd melt or something silly. We only have a PrusaMk3 so our print plate isn't exactly large is the only problem we have :(
Adam Browne. I use a Flashforge Dreamer so mines not huge either. The best mod is a glass silica glass plate with about six full coats of hair lacquer on. Prints stick extremely well and just about fall off when the glass has cooled.
I love how, in the spirit of the channel, he also timelapses the work he has to do to fix the printer, with the same pre-work rundown on what has to be done.
Sema 2020 build: fully 3D printed wide body s2000
@@Randy_84 yep that's what I'm hearing from him too! What a fucking weird freak aye!
Having fun and being creative can drive your process for learning. ABSOLUTELY.
Quick tip 😂 must watch it for a good 30mins to ensure that the filament has stuck to the base of the 3D printer, 30 minute time frame as the first couple of layers of filament would reach the temperature of the bed.
DeepF1ASH especially with a bigger printer like this lol
Disagree that's why we have octoprint and a camera lol
I have been following the 3D printing since about 2003 and have watched it evolve into some amazing things that can be printed.
When printing multi piece items: make puzzle piece tabs so they lock together that way you can plastic weld easier.
That is a smart idea.
So happy to see you actually go in depth with the 3D Printing stuff! It's great to see that you actually got straight into and started tinkering about, it's honestly the best way to learn how all the settings work. Also, you got really lucky to get Creality to send you one of their printers, they're honestly probably the best bang for your buck currently and will outprint any of the big names such as Makerbot and FlashForge, in terms of reliability, ease and quality.
Keen to see what more you will do!
Omg I actually bought one of those it’s in my office I haven’t used it yet but I’m excited
How do you buy a 3D printer and not use it?
Suh Dude I’ve been very busy with school and stuff and idk what to print I haven’t needed it for anything
point blank im loving the attention to details on this job and love how things are becoming A REALITY
Try adding either a jigsaw or dovetail shaped edges on the pieces (instead of butting the straight edges together) to interlock the parts for a stronger join?
I 3D print turbofans for AirWerks LLC. I would not recommend using high temp PLA for car parts. They'll warp under just sun exposure. I would *highly* recommend building an enclosure out of OSB and printing in ABS or PETG for car parts. Feel free to contact me on IG @airwerks or @galavantory. I've printed parts for Khyzyl, fifteen52, and Industry Garage. Best of luck printing!
I almost skipped this video because I didn't know it was you lol thumbnail caught me off guard
Same!! I also am into 3D printing and am subscribe to a few printing channels, mailny so that I know where to go when I run into problems, but I don't routinely watch the videos. I thought this was one and skipped over it several times while scrolling through until I saw the channel name.
Don’t stay away too long... I’m anxious to see this builds first test drive.
You should consider wearing some type of dust mask when you’re sanding
Please buy some cut proof gloves for processing those supports. I have had the misfortune of nicking an artery with those scraper tools when removing supports. Not a fun time. Also consider using a sparser support infill if possible and/or increasing the spacing between the part and the supports. PETG is a super strong material with superior layer bond but that comes at a cost.
Just wait until he finds out about more high temp materials like ULTEM and peek or pekk
Also triangle lab makes the best cheap clones around
He might even be able to 3d print in metal or even titanium.
@@powcar91 i dont think you can 3d print titanium yet maybe you can on some 100k+ industrial 3d printer but ik you can print stainless steel 316l it goes for 400 something per 3 kg?
Adam Savage 3d printed his Iron Man suit out of Titanium.
Look how much the printer costs
@@turtledude2924 I think its 3 million, Adam was sponsored by the university.
Something I've found with printing multiple parts and sticking them together is using a soldering iron to melt them together works better than anything else. Good luck man, love to see you trying new things!
Just use gorilla glue 2 part epoxy. Sets super fast and is very strong. That's what I use for all my 3d parts. No need for melting and ruining tolerances.
Use PETG instead. It's the best of both worlds. It has the strength of ABS and is easy to work with and does not stink as bad as PLA.
Anthony Day He specifically says that’s what he is using
@@gunnarlavenue he says it's PLA.
Just popped in to say its cool seeing you work with Matthew of Design Prototype Test. His channel is awesome.
9:32 I love when that happens 😁
Glad you actually showed folks what they are truly getting into, and not just opening a box and boom a magical problem free part. 3D printing is great, but it does take a lot of tinkering to get the settings right. Then when you think theyre great, you have to adjust them again for different filaments, and type of prints. Most folks that work on cars, have a tinkerers mind though, and like that.
This is awesome! Soon enough you'll be 3d printing your own car! 🤣
Joe Alex they have done that ruclips.net/video/DQ1Y8iw-CCI/видео.html
@@JSquad1 that vehicle is not 3d printed
When modelers make things out of 3D printed parts (airplanes for example) the bond them together with CA glue and CA accelerator. Then they fly them. Just a thought.
Do you have an update on the Boat?
Chris, make sure you're printing with a high temp plastic like ABS. PLA which is the easiest to print will deform in sunlight. Also with ABS, you can weld it together with Acetone. ABS is more difficult to print with and you will need an enclosure for your printer. Good luck!
Am I completely missing the SEMA Young Guns voting link?
Sean McMahan I was wondering the same thing. I found what I think is the link: www.semayoungguns.com/
sry it’s there now, thanks for voting!
@@BisforBuild Thanks!
@@johnsnow2809 I appreciate it.
Not sure if you know about it already, but you can solvent weld PETG just like ABS with MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone). The solvent disolves the plastic, making the molecules free to move and mix with the other side, creating a bond stronger than any glue (just as strong as the original material). This process is a lot quicker and cleaner than using a 3D printer pen, so it might be something worth looking into for you. Mind you, that if you want to solvent weld different plastics you need different solvents, from memory I think you can solvent weld PLA with acetone.
Also, you can readily dissolve some PETG scraps into MEK to create a thick goopy paste, which you can use to 'weld' pieces together too. I regularly use this technique with ABS to repair body work on motorcycles.
Waited a whole week to only see a scoop made by 3D printer😭....hopefully we get more soon
I find it easier to deal with supports if you print the unseen-side down, the top tends to be the best looking part of a print. Hope it helps!
Too much waste material that way
Hearing the word “safer” after seeing a sanding montage without eye protection was ironic. Lol
Man from all the car youtubers that I watch, this is THE MOST unique and out of the box thing I’ve seen in a while. Great stuff Chris!
Chris offset your meeting flanges and make them interlock with each other
If you want a stringer fused part, use a soldering iron to melt parts together, make tabs in align parts easier.
What slicing software you using to slice your print ? There should be setting to make a layer the just peals away between supports. Makes projects a lot easier.
the face that he made when he said “nearding out “
3d printing is really fun, been doing it for 3 years now, built my first one in 8th grade, and the cr-10 is a great printer, good work man, have fun
I subbed only for your boat build
Nate Medeiros I’d bet that is on hold until after sema
THANK YOU FOR SHARING. My 2c tip for the adjoining parts. You can create a feature to allow the 2 halves to interlock simply by pushing the together with some moderate force depending on the fit you want (options are endless). So you can control the alignment of the parts relative to each other. There after you can glue, weld, surface prep etc. I know its a year old...but anyway. ISH - South Africa
Lol works on a sema car
3D printer: imma take all this mans time
Hey Chris, since you're new to 3D printing... One of the first tips is to "never leave a print unattended". Things like electrical failures and fires have happened to people because of running prints unattended overnight. Yes, 3D printing is slow so I'm not saying camp in front of the printer. But checking in on it every few mins / half an hour / an hour could help avoid things like a blob of plastic stuck to the printer head :)
As he's printing random models, people with 3D printers are throwing benchies at the screen yelling "Use these instead!" Hahaha
You guys are nuts. You know what you’re doing and I appreciate all of it believe me everybody should be a part of this you guys are crazy bro!!
3D Printer are like kids. You can't leave them alone.
But you can...only for a little while. Some prints would even take weeks or months depending on size, speed and material
I let my 3d printers go for 150 hours easy
@@barracuda6817 Congrats. I have one of those crappy first gen 3d printers.
@@HALDikopter What brand/model??
@@barracuda6817 VELLEMAN K8200
Tips for your 3d primo future. Swap to a .6 or .8 nozzle. For parts this size there is no need for 'fine details' from the .4
You will save yourself a bunch of time. And the piece will be stronger.
Get yourself a large piece of glass for the bed, creality beds are garbage and will always be garbage.
Not sure what slicer you are using but you should be able to add more layer gap between supports and the model. Which will get rid of that issue in the future. Since you are wrapping it, you could also slice the model into more pieces to avoid using supports. I'm currently printing a custom diffuser for my car, then going to a full wide body kit so if you have any questions about printing feel free to ask
Wrap the pieces in carbon and glue like the rest of the car it will be strong and light
I know it's been several years since you tried the carbon fiber overlays using 3d prints, but I'd love to see you try again! I think with a bit more time with the 3d printer you could get the prints to turn out REALLY good and then have a great place to start with for the carbon fiber.
At some point something similar but got too many other projects going on right now :)
days since Kyle last injured: 0
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look at the parts like a jig saw and design a connection point locking both parts together. love your enthusiasm!!
I have a 3D printer at home (Creality Ender 3) and boy oh boy I hope you plan on just creating prototype parts to create molds or something like that because FDM 3D printing is NOT strong and WILL break under force easily, no matter what filament you use.
He's gonna wrap the vents in carbon fiber tho, i guess that'll make 'em plenty strong.
I disagree. I can stand on my abs fender vents
I have the Creality Ender 3 Pro, and this little printer is awesome for the price point. Watching this video has inspired me to print my own car parts. Awesome job on the build so far and it is great that you are introducing different methods to get your build complete.
What we came here for “3d printed Huracan parts”
What we get “ Micky mouse head”
Hey chris I have 4 of these printers for work for prototyping an also have 2 of their cr10s pros. best setting i find for using the .4 mm nozzle is for big parts 30% infill, 1.2mm walls, o.1 layer hieght, print speed 50mm/s, and for retraction speed 120mm/s and 4.4 mm distance. for the raft you might want to lower the first layer airgap to around .18 or .17
What 3D software is that?
Also F to Kyle
Fusion 360 for modeling and Cura for slicing
SrgntBallisticGaming thank you
Theres a plug in for cura that automatically orientates your models to use the least amount of support possible. Saves you some time as i saw you get that fender the right way. Also look into octo pi. It lets you monitor your prints on wifi with a webcam and a raspberi pi and you can send prints over on wifi, cancel and pause prints.
Who here doesnt know shit about cars? xD Love the series anyway lol
A few tips for printing a part like that:
If you flip the part before printing you can have the support on the inside, the top side would be left with a much nicer finish.
You can change the density and style of the support so it would be easier to remove, sometimes that sacrifices the finish but if your support is on the inside that would not matter.
There are multiple ways you can separate a part when it is too large for the print bed (basically like a puzzle) this makes it much stronger when joining them together.
Since you plan to use screws to attach that too the body, you should print with close to 100% infill in order to give the screws some material to attach to.
I really enjoy your videos, and look forward to see another build completed.
will be too much support material wasted, and will take more time to print all the support
1st 4 minutes of this video should have been left on the cutting room floor.
Try slicing with tree supports within Cura as they are much much easier to remove and use a fraction of the plastic a normal support will use and print quicker!
Is Creality meant to be pronounced “See Reality”? 🤗
I think it’s more of “create reality”
next time you are using petg/asa/abs or literally ANY printer filament that you need to remove supports i suggest you spend the time to use the slicer. I for one use a free one called Cura. In cura there are settings to change for the support material. I suggest using as little support density as possible and use a larger spacing between support and model.
Also consider splitting the parts into two by just lowering the part until its below the printsurface and take note of the -z value. Save the gcode file. Then flip the model 180 in z axis to turn it upsidedown. continue to lower the z axis until you hit the same value as on the previous part. This makes your part into 2 models with a 100% straigt and smooth surface to glue together. There are many different types of glue suitable for each type of filament.
Good luck and do not hesitate to contact me if you need any help with printers :)
Best wishes from a norwegian filamentfanboy
dude... your mom is gonna freak when she sees you sanding in the house like that
B is for build you should release a film after sema and the build showing the whole car build process in detail, the car community would go nuts for that I reckon.
"fluid tip" it's called a nozzle lol
He DOES put a good bit of energy into painting efforts ... Lol, at the end of the day, roughly same same. 😁
Is it or is it not a tip that squirts out hot liquid [fluid] plastic? Exactly.
@@shona5512 Terminology for that is nozzle
I have found the best thing to do to keep parts stationary when 3D printing is to put some glue down. I specifically used the purple glue sticks that start purple and dries clear. It helped me alot when printing bigger parts
NOTIFICATION SQUAD
Daarm B is for build is doing incredible things (again). Also can't wait to see more of the boat. You made my day 1000 times better.
Holy shit my ears at 7:26
bro it's not even loud
Thanks for sharing your rebuilding experience. Good luck with your build.
Wanna know how I like my women? 14:19 👌🏻
😂😂
from the time lapse it looks like the hotend axis is dropping a little bit. you will be able to stop that by fitting a Anti-Backlash Spring Loaded Nut. they are pretty easy to fit easy to find and help improve the results of your 3d prints.
When you split a model add registration tabs and indents to lock it together when you reassemble the pieces. Especially for longer flat surfaces. Printing the screw holes in your parts would be another great time saver. Then print a thin template to tape on the car for drilling your screw holes for perfect alignment. Best of luck.
As someone who has been 3D printing for 4 or 5 years, this was a roller coaster ride.
I have an ender 3 from them and I use a glass bed and use a normal glue stick on the bed to help with adhesion for the first layer and it works great!
Glad i'm not the only one. as soon as I unboxed the cr10 max the metal clip on the x axis stop switch fell of as well. luckily I noticed it and soon found where it went. I also had a badly failed print that destroyed the bl touch and after a whole host of other problems i'm finally dialling it in. Not a printer for the uniformed. Probably a good printer once its calibrated and tuned in slicer settings. Cool video.
Is it possible to have two episodes per week? I can’t get enough of your video
Also when ever printing anything that is mostly rounded use the concentric setting. That is if you are using Cura. If not I recommend using it with that printer. using concentric will also cut down how much in fill you might need thus using less material.
Theres a setting in Cura thats called Ironing and it makes the top layer super smooth and you don't even see the layers on the top. I would recommend using that.
Enjoying the build! I'd recommend breathing protection when sanding 3d printed parts.
For joining panels, you can build in dovetails and use some sort of epoxy or glue. Then you have a mechanical join and a surface join.
Love the project, a thought. Couldnt you like bondo the part to fill the gaps, sand it down, prime it, and then wrap it?
FYI if you use a paint stripper that contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane) you can solvent weld PETG or PLA plastic together. It's effectively the same as welding it with the printer pen but probably a bit less time consuming.
You need dual extenders with dissolvable filament for the supports, easy cleanup and better finish, especially if you have a low infill.