Trying to think how that would be done. Anchoring a side plate would create the problem of attaching the side plate without interfering with the fence.
Loved the simplicity of the design. I really liked the *ME* credits. Great video. Gonna borrow your design for my bandsaw. Just gonna tweak a few things.
I like working with metal and will try the method of fence for my 32" walker turner. I wish this wasn't 8 yrs ago, I don't know if this channel is still active. But if anyone knows the base of the fence looked like the is a flat bar on its bottom. That or the base had been cut on both sides of the bottom length wise. If I saw that correctly, what is its purpose?
Instead of the bolt heads sticking out, you could drill a bigger hole* and allow the bolt to hit the inside of the square tubing up against the machine where you can get more torque on it. *Bigger hole to get the socket in
I have two saws that need fences and you just answered my questions !! Let me answer one for you. On the protrusion of your bolt interference issue. Just drill the area of the square stocks out to allow the bolt to go all the way through the first wall. That's how its done on my Jet back rail and it works fine. Thanks for taking the time to show your work.
Joe Johns, what a great way to make a fence - cheap, simple, and looks like it'll be highly effective! Thank you for sharing this idea! After seeing the simplicity of design, I'm guessing you have many more great videos, so I subscribed. Thank you again, sir!
Great idea Joe! I'm setting up a large Jet BS and was wondering what to do about a fence. You have given me some good food for thought. Thank you for posting this video. Regards, Bob
Stream Bobby Coleman 4 days ago Joe, I have a Rockwell/Delta band saw, I think it is exactly the same model as yours. My question is, (1) Does yours take a 140" blade (mine does) (2) if it is a 140" blade, do you have a supplier that stock 140" blades or do you have to bye custom blades. Thanks in advance Bobby C.
Very nice design. Few suggestions for improvements for those who intend to copy it. If you mount the piece of the angle steel on the other side of the fence beam you would have more rigid fence - both ends would be held by clamping force rather than rely only on rigidity of the cross formed by the steel angle and the beam. Commercial fences are typically constructed with the entire clamping mechanism on one side because it is cheaper for manufacturing. But the better fence systems employ more complicated clamping mechanism that holds both ends of the beam. Instead of using the long hex head bolts to clamp the 2x2 square tube, enlarge the outside holes a bit and use shorter cap head bolts to fasten the square tube to the table. (Attach a magnet to the Allen key while threading the cap head bolts into the holes to prevent them from falling off the tip easily)
Hi Joe,I like style in which you have presented this video,concise,I have searched for days to find a fence I can use for both bandsaw and bench saw.You have ended my search so a huge thankyou for that alone, your design would enable me to carry on woodworking more accurately,cheers malc from across the pond
Hey Joe! Nice Fence there! You got me some good ideas for my (still in planning-status-)tablesaw-router-table! Especially the idea with the clamp to tighten this beast up brought me forward a huge step in planning! :) Thanks a lot for sharing!!
I have some old metal tubing and angle iron (great to be a hoarder sometimes) and I am gonna borrow your planning, design, but I will do the fabrication! Thanks for the video!
Joe, I have a Rockwell/Delta band saw, I think it is exactly the same model as yours. My question is, (1) Does yours take a 140" blade (mine does) (2) if it is a 140" blade, do you have a supplier that stock 140" blades or do you have to bye custom blades. Thanks in advance Bobby C.
Hey Bobby, sorry for the delay in responding to you. This Delta bandsaw is the model 28-350. It was made in March of 1959. At the time I don't think that is the model number they used. In front of me I have the original manual and nowhere in it can I find what that model number is. I called Delta Parts, gave them the serial number and that is the number they gave me along with its BOD (born on date). This manual, on page 16, states the required blade length to be 141" long which is 11' 9" so that is the length of blades I order - you *might* be able to get a 140" blade to work on it but I wouldn't know. I order my blades from Suffolk Machinery www.suffolkmachinery.com/ - they know more about bandsaw blades than anyone else. Thanks for watching my video.
Great Build Joe! I'm REALLY diggin' the EMT work light setup also!.... I think I'm gonna go with your idea of this band saw fence for my Grizzly 14", especially since I already have the materials! Have A Super Blessed Week! .....Gus (TheWoodWerker)
Well, Gus, I'm just plumb tickled to smithereenies what with you liking it an all! Enjoy the build, cease the day, score one for the Gipper and, last but not least, look both ways before you cross the street!
I have an old Rockwell 20" band saw and the original fence has round tube rails which means you need to move the fence all the way to the end of the rails to remove, To make things worse, you can't take it off easily to the inside of the blade. Pain the butt. I want to replace it with square tubing style fence.
Hi Joe very good idea and build. I do have a question. You put sq tubing on both the front and back of the table, you are only clamping on the front, so why did you put it on the back of the table, Is it something Im not seeing
Why, yes, I can. I laid out the lines. I then took a metal cutting jigsaw blade and cut its length down so that it wouldn't hit the tubing on the down stroke, I then ground down the back of it along that length so it wasn't so wide. Next, I tilted the tubing so that I was only cutting through the corners - that opens up a space to fit the blade into to cut along the lines on the long flat way. Then, you go back to the starting point and start nibbling until you can turn the blade and go the narrow way. Repeat for the other side.
Hey Robert, The one I used on this fence is a DE-STA-CO Model 605. I removed their handle, replaced it with a wooden one and turned it 90 degrees so the handle end would be facing down and not interfere with the fence.
Awesome. Exactly what I was thinking. Now I know it will work.
Nice job on simple effective fence. One thing you could add is a add on higher fence for resawing.
Trying to think how that would be done. Anchoring a side plate would create the problem of attaching the side plate without interfering with the fence.
Great build - thank you for sharing.
I like it.
Good design!
Simplicity in design sometimes reduces the errors you are prone to making, and this is a symbol of that, greaaat build!!!!
Loved the simplicity of the design. I really liked the *ME* credits. Great video. Gonna borrow your design for my bandsaw. Just gonna tweak a few things.
I like working with metal and will try the method of fence for my 32" walker turner. I wish this wasn't 8 yrs ago, I don't know if this channel is still active. But if anyone knows the base of the fence looked like the is a flat bar on its bottom. That or the base had been cut on both sides of the bottom length wise. If I saw that correctly, what is its purpose?
Made a few like that. Better than the aluminum stuff on the market. I have a homemade biesemeyer fence I can jump between 3 saws
Instead of the bolt heads sticking out, you could drill a bigger hole* and allow the bolt to hit the inside of the square tubing up against the machine where you can get more torque on it. *Bigger hole to get the socket in
Steven Koepke then instead of a bolt you can't clamp against you have a hole you can't clamp against.
Ed Carter easy remedy drill hole from the bottom big enough to feed bolt up and into the face hole. Reach up into hole with a wrench.
I have two saws that need fences and you just answered my questions !! Let me answer one for you. On the protrusion of your bolt interference issue. Just drill the area of the square stocks out to allow the bolt to go all the way through the first wall. That's how its done on my Jet back rail and it works fine. Thanks for taking the time to show your work.
hi, you find there's no need to put something at the end of the fence, opposite the clamp, to hook on the other tubing? thx
Joe Johns, what a great way to make a fence - cheap, simple, and looks like it'll be highly effective! Thank you for sharing this idea! After seeing the simplicity of design, I'm guessing you have many more great videos, so I subscribed. Thank you again, sir!
Great idea Joe!
I'm setting up a large Jet BS and was wondering what to do about a fence. You have given me some good food for thought. Thank you for posting this video.
Regards,
Bob
Wow, so simple and yet it's perfect... I'm gonna be making two of these, one for my band saw and another for my table saw... thanks for sharing....
That's the easiest way I've seen yet.
Does the 2" tube on the far end serve a purpose? I was searching the tube for a metal fabricated fence, nice job and thanks for sharing.
I could only imagine it is there to support the fence when you are off the table to the left of the blade... But I could be wrong.
Nice work and thanks for sharing your ideas with us!!
Stream
Bobby Coleman
4 days ago
Joe, I have a Rockwell/Delta band saw, I think it is exactly the same model as yours. My question is, (1) Does yours take a 140" blade (mine does) (2) if it is a 140" blade, do you have a supplier that stock 140" blades or do you have to bye custom blades.
Thanks in advance Bobby C.
Very nice design.
Few suggestions for improvements for those who intend to copy it.
If you mount the piece of the angle steel on the other side of the fence beam you would have more rigid fence - both ends would be held by clamping force rather than rely only on rigidity of the cross formed by the steel angle and the beam.
Commercial fences are typically constructed with the entire clamping mechanism on one side because it is cheaper for manufacturing. But the better fence systems employ more complicated clamping mechanism that holds both ends of the beam.
Instead of using the long hex head bolts to clamp the 2x2 square tube, enlarge the outside holes a bit and use shorter cap head bolts to fasten the square tube to the table.
(Attach a magnet to the Allen key while threading the cap head bolts into the holes to prevent them from falling off the tip easily)
Nice job . I had some more involved ideas. Now I think I will keep it similar. Thanks for posting . Many years too late for me.
Great design, going to have to save your video for on down the road. Thanks!
Hi Joe,I like style in which you have presented this video,concise,I have searched for days to find a fence I can use for both bandsaw and bench saw.You have ended my search so a huge thankyou for that alone, your design would enable me to carry on woodworking more accurately,cheers malc from across the pond
Hey Joe! Nice Fence there! You got me some good ideas for my (still in planning-status-)tablesaw-router-table! Especially the idea with the clamp to tighten this beast up brought me forward a huge step in planning! :) Thanks a lot for sharing!!
Y'all are most welcome.
I have some old metal tubing and angle iron (great to be a hoarder sometimes) and I am gonna borrow your planning, design, but I will do the fabrication!
Thanks for the video!
I like it a lot
I really like your ideas. you and stumpy need to get together and have a smart off.
thanks for this video.....i have the same band saw....i am currently refurbishing mine.
Nice design, nice presentation and nice looking shop. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Love the credits! Great idea and build. Just the thing I've been looking for.
Joe, I have a Rockwell/Delta band saw, I think it is exactly the same model as yours. My question is, (1) Does yours take a 140" blade (mine does) (2) if it is a 140" blade, do you have a supplier that stock 140" blades or do you have to bye custom blades.
Thanks in advance Bobby C.
Hey Bobby, sorry for the delay in responding to you. This Delta bandsaw is the model 28-350. It was made in March of 1959. At the time I don't think that is the model number they used. In front of me I have the original manual and nowhere in it can I find what that model number is. I called Delta Parts, gave them the serial number and that is the number they gave me along with its BOD (born on date). This manual, on page 16, states the required blade length to be 141" long which is 11' 9" so that is the length of blades I order - you *might* be able to get a 140" blade to work on it but I wouldn't know. I order my blades from Suffolk Machinery www.suffolkmachinery.com/ - they know more about bandsaw blades than anyone else. Thanks for watching my video.
Great Build Joe! I'm REALLY diggin' the EMT work light setup also!.... I think I'm gonna go with your idea of this band saw fence for my Grizzly 14", especially since I already have the materials! Have A Super Blessed Week! .....Gus (TheWoodWerker)
Well, Gus, I'm just plumb tickled to smithereenies what with you liking it an all! Enjoy the build, cease the day, score one for the Gipper and, last but not least, look both ways before you cross the street!
I have an old Rockwell 20" band saw and the original fence has round tube rails which means you need to move the fence all the way to the end of the rails to remove, To make things worse, you can't take it off easily to the inside of the blade. Pain the butt. I want to replace it with square tubing style fence.
+WoodRodent Ok. You may go ahead then.
how do you adjust the fence for blade drift ?
Well, if your bandsaw is properly tuned and the blade is sharp and tensioned correctly then there will be no drift.
thanks for sharing...solid and makes a lot of sense.
Gr8 fabricating. Thnx for sharing
Hi Joe very good idea and build. I do have a question. You put sq tubing on both the front and back of the table, you are only clamping on the front, so why did you put it on the back of the table, Is it something Im not seeing
William Castleberry Hey William. The square tubing on the back is there to hold the end of the fence should I have it out there past the table's edge.
Damn I couldn't see the forest for the trees, LOL. That's what you call tunnel vision I guess
Thanks
I'm going to build like yours
Can you share with us how you went about cutting the guide slots in the square tubing?
Why, yes, I can. I laid out the lines. I then took a metal cutting jigsaw blade and cut its length down so that it wouldn't hit the tubing on the down stroke, I then ground down the back of it along that length so it wasn't so wide. Next, I tilted the tubing so that I was only cutting through the corners - that opens up a space to fit the blade into to cut along the lines on the long flat way. Then, you go back to the starting point and start nibbling until you can turn the blade and go the narrow way. Repeat for the other side.
Hey Mr. Johns,
Got a part number for the Destaco clamp? Thanks for the video, they are very helpful,
Robert
Hey Robert, The one I used on this fence is a DE-STA-CO Model 605. I removed their handle, replaced it with a wooden one and turned it 90 degrees so the handle end would be facing down and not interfere with the fence.
Joe Johns
Thank you for your reply! Will order one and try it out on my band saw,
Robert
What did you do to account for drift...is the angle iron on the fence adjusted?
Obviously you didn't hear where I said the holes in the angle iron are elongated to allow for adjustment - it's at 3:00
I like it Joe, it is a good design.
The 2"x2" - is that a 1/8 or 1/4 wall thickness?
It would 1/8" wall thickness.
Great Job!
I like it!