The Best Roof Rack for Solar Panels
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
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In this episode I'll show you how I built this DIY Roof Rack to mount your Solar panels to your Van.
Carriage bolt washer (I don’t really recommend this one) get the one from ACE amzn.to/3E5dNOP
Grinder amzn.to/3Xc8Psz
Roof Rail Kit amzn.to/3g8NLOX
Rich Solar 100 Watt Panels amzn.to/3EtJB1m
Branch Connector amzn.to/3g2LY1D
Solar Cable Extension amzn.to/3O2tSJE
Solar Entry Gland amzn.to/3AbV0QU
Marine Sealant amzn.to/3g2TNV7
Rubber Grommet amzn.to/3WUbc33
Angled Drill Bit amzn.to/2F51DuO
Socket Set amzn.to/3O6OYXC
Impact Drill-amzn.to/3hDqs45
Locktite amzn.to/3WY9yx4
Drill Bits amzn.to/3TxaDt2
Zip Tie Wire Holders amzn.to/3tuEjwm
If any links aren't working please let me know in the comments
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I love this and decided to mount two 200 watt panels like you did in your first build. But then I tried adding two 100 watt panels on either side of my max fan (we're putting in an ac in the back, so I was shooting for 600 watts). When I figured out they would be so wide they would cover the track, I thought I could make it work by connecting the securing bolt in the L bar and track come up directly through the solar panel; except when I mounted them I discovered I can't reach underneath to secure the nuts . Maybe that's why no one does it!
Yeh it’s also not a good idea to use different size panels on the same circuit
I had the cables go in the 3rd brake light since it’s plastic, used the same roof penetration for wires you did but that way less holes in metal.
+1 stainless with aluminium can cause galvanic corrosion, (ask me how i know) galvanised fixings may actually be a better option, also less costly and easier to source ... Good job, I love how low profile these installs are. And simple to assemble all the panels on the ground .
2:00 2 minutes into the video and I'm already thinking this project is too expensive for the amount of modification you're having to do.
T-track and 80/20 makes for a neat install
Very nice install. One more crossbar in the middle sandwiched between the panel frames would take care of the issue and cost about 10% as much as that chunk they sold you.
Hmm that’s a pretty good idea I don’t why I didn’t think to put it in between. I’ll do that next time. The price difference wasn’t much though. Home Depot sells those for $48 and I paid $62 for that big piece of metal from the supply shop.
lol love the fight club flashes
In both videos for this install, I cant find a link to the cross bars that the solar panels attach to (and attached to the two rails as part of the rail kit). Great video and great roof kit.
Did you watch the whole video? The cross bars are from Home Depot that’s why there isn’t a link
Great video, so why 4 100 watt and not 2 200 Watt this build?
I found the performance of the 200 watt panels was not as good. I think the problem may have been that they were only 12 volt panels and i wired them in parallel, keeping the voltage only at 12 volts which wasnt enough to charge the 300 amp hours of batteries as fast as i wanted. Next time i think i'll do the 200 watts again just so i dont have to add the middle crossbar and either find panels that are more than 12 volt or just wire them in series to increase the voltage.
@@BuildingVanLife OK, I get it, thanks
1/2 inch crescent wrench works best for twisting roof mounting cleats.
I was thinking of stacking two extra 200w panels on top of two and using door sliders to slide them out when the van is stationary, sort of like a small retractable canopy. That would give me 800w. Just wondering if anyone ever tried something like that? BTW, wondering why you went with 4x100w on this build?
Why do you need so much solar? Are you installing a/c? I didn’t feel the 2 200 watt panels were giving out as much power as the 4 100 watt panels. 2 200 watt panels is certainly easier though
@@BuildingVanLife Yes, A/C. For those really hot sticky days, and those days when there's not much sun. Just wondering if it's been done. Anyway, I heard 4x100s are better from other people too. Also, if one stops working, it's cheaper to replace. So, yeah.
@@Roadghost88 If you check my solar system install video i posted two weeks ago i use this new inverter charger that charges extremely fast when you have shore power. I also have alternator charging when I'm driving.
That is a common way of adding more solar. As you're not going to be driving while they are out..And you can add Spring loaded lock pins to hold them in place..
Do you have any plans, measurements or drawing for the build?
looking at solar panel options, i don't know whats the size of the roof, and how many can I fit in... also interested in the process: in the video you just go and do stuff. there must be a planning stage before, no? where everything goes, what size will be the bed, the shower, the kitchen...
Yes it’s planned before. This is the 5th one of these I have done and I just make slight alterations and improvements each time. If you have two fans this the max amount of panels you can fit
What are the pros and cons of one fan or two? I have the metal window vents for the driver and passenger door windows.
you can cool things down a lot faster when one fan is blowing in and the other is blowing out. The only con i would say is the roof space it takes up which will limit the amount of solar you can get on the roof or if you want a roof deck.
If you don’t want windows I’d do two fans. If you’re by the coast it’s a little cooler and I think one fan is enough - especially if you install windows that open in the back for cross breeze. Unless you run hot. Then two! Game changer I hear.
@@katekaos thank you, I think I'm going to get two fans. I don't have any windows, happy travels
@@sixstrings1063 I think you’ll be happy you did! I want to get opening windows all around. Will draw less power for just one fan. Windows are expensive though! Pros and cons 😄
@@katekaos I'd recommend the metal window vents for the driver and passenger windows if you don't have them. They're well made and secure, I really like them.
What works is Unit-Strut spring loaded clamps...Just buy the right width...
I would add.. If you need to drill new holes. Just buy a Unibit...1/4-3/4" step bit...
if I can get today 200W panels that are like 65" by 27", would you recommend putting 2 of them across the roof to achieve the same 400W? it's less roof space, and only slightly more expensive.
You can do that. I did that on the last van. The ones I used didn’t ended up not being enough amperage though. So check the amps and volts on them and decide how to wire them to make them work best
@@BuildingVanLife Thanks!
Where do I get the terminator drill?
haha here you go amzn.to/3US9ldk
Galvanized steel is ok to use with aluminum.
But, just as a note to your viewers. Stainless steel, will cause galvanic corrosion. If say, you were to try to use, stainless steel hardware with aluminum rails.
The link for the Rich Solar 100 watt panels does not seem to work at my end.
thanks for letting me know, i fixed it amzn.to/3EtJB1m
Hey bro, there is not roofrack kn the link to your amazon affiliate.....and i wanan see how much it is, cause its simple and works and im about to buy FVC latter/roofrack its $2700... so if what you did is cheaper id like to go for that one lmk thanks.
it's way cheaper, here is the link amzn.to/3VvSrUT
Did you use 1" L channel or 1 1/2" ?
Links are in the description for what I used
@BuildingVanLife everything but the L channel is in the description
@@HowToFromMeToYou I did not use L channel specifically I used the roof rail kit amzn.to/3g8NLOX
but it appears to be 1'' 1/2 for your info
@BuildingVanLife I understand that you used the weather guard roof TRACKS. I bought those already... I was referring to the aluminum L channel that goes from driver to passenger side that the solar panels are bolted on and bolted to the roof tracks