please tell the audience WHAT your meter settings are on when you test for "power"....you are checking for CONTINUITY and your meter is set to ........??? Thanks.
Literally this! “Let’s check for power…” With what settings you fuckin dummy?! Christ how hard can it be it’s like the one single most important piece of info here
Tim… you literally just beat me to it and two hours ago to boot, crazy. If you don’t know how to use a multimeter PJ it’s fucking simple, stop and smell the flowers life has to offer you and don’t go near the wiring on your goddamn car for fuck sakes. The children will miss practice and your wife will hate you even more
Also, if you aren’t the kind of person to see the obvious, then I can’t help you, but I’m sure most people can see in the video, the multimeter and where it is set and the symbol that it’s set to I could be fucking retarded, but I highly doubt it
Have to be carefull switch can carry enough power to look good on the ohmmeter but cannot pass enough to light up the brake lights. Being there done that
How did you figure out that was the problem?? Is there a way to measure the power it passes to light up the brake lights using a meter? I'm very new to meter stuff.
@@notSusNuggetafter you know is not a fuse or a rotted off ground connection at the back end .and there hasn't been anyone working with the electrical system recently or doing some work in the car that could have caused one of the wires to be shorted or or cut the brake light switch has to be your #1 suspect until proven innocent .the simple and failsafe test is to wire up a temp tester using the same number and type of bulbs that are supposed to come on when the brake is pushed . Take your little tester straight to the battery terminals to make sure that it actually works that it doesn't have a fault. Then connect to the downstream side of your brake switch to see if the bulbs come on and illuminate as brightly as they did when you put it to the battery. Push the switch enough times to check that it's not an intermittent problem . And now to my best of my understanding you have checked the brake light switch. If you're a smart cookie after the problem is fixed and all is good you'll disassemble the tester you made and put those new bulbs right where your old bulbs were in your brake system and that way you should be trouble free for the foreseeable future. The thing to remember is you can put a bunch of small little batteries together that you can test it will show 12 volts but that's certainly is not going to start your car . You have to have voltage and amperage to do the work
Nice. Mine tested fine. Which is bad news. My lights stay on when I release the brake BUT go out and I release the key -- so no battery drain which all the other videos complain of! Hmmm...
Does that mean if the light stays on without pressing button in when I connect terminals both ways my light stays on and turns off when I push the button this mean I have to replace?
To test the wires individually, you will have to make a long lead for your multimeter and connect to contacts on the light socket. However, you can also test to see if you are getting power at the socket by connecting your leads to the positive and negative contacts on your brake light socket. You may also have a tail lamp circuit back there; if so, you can either test both or look up your wiring schematics. I'll make a video about it in the future.
Does to have to be released til the very end to work or is is enough to release a little bit 0.1mm and it starts to work? My break pedal switch works fine but there is still an issue in the computer of the car with it... :/ My lights turn on in the car halfway of the switch....
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please tell the audience WHAT your meter settings are on when you test for "power"....you are checking for CONTINUITY and your meter is set to ........??? Thanks.
Literally this!
“Let’s check for power…”
With what settings you fuckin dummy?! Christ how hard can it be it’s like the one single most important piece of info here
Lol you're joking right?
Tim… you literally just beat me to it and two hours ago to boot, crazy.
If you don’t know how to use a multimeter PJ it’s fucking simple, stop and smell the flowers life has to offer you and don’t go near the wiring on your goddamn car for fuck sakes. The children will miss practice and your wife will hate you even more
Also, if you aren’t the kind of person to see the obvious, then I can’t help you, but I’m sure most people can see in the video, the multimeter and where it is set and the symbol that it’s set to I could be fucking retarded, but I highly doubt it
@@ChipperTheChipster lol you responded 2 years after my initial post....youre joking, right???
*_Watching for my automotive lab! Nice explanations!_*
very helpful video, straight to the point no bs, thank you very much.
Thanks man... now all I gotta do is watch this 10x..lol
Haha well I'm confident you can test out your switch!
Have to be carefull switch can carry enough power to look good on the ohmmeter but cannot pass enough to light up the brake lights. Being there done that
@@bobdarker519 if it fails the continuity test then it is bad for sure
How did you figure out that was the problem?? Is there a way to measure the power it passes to light up the brake lights using a meter? I'm very new to meter stuff.
@@notSusNuggetafter you know is not a fuse or a rotted off ground connection at the back end .and there hasn't been anyone working with the electrical system recently or doing some work in the car that could have caused one of the wires to be shorted or or cut the brake light switch has to be your #1 suspect until proven innocent .the simple and failsafe test is to wire up a temp tester using the same number and type of bulbs that are supposed to come on when the brake is pushed . Take your little tester straight to the battery terminals to make sure that it actually works that it doesn't have a fault. Then connect to the downstream side of your brake switch to see if the bulbs come on and illuminate as brightly as they did when you put it to the battery. Push the switch enough times to check that it's not an intermittent problem . And now to my best of my understanding you have checked the brake light switch. If you're a smart cookie after the problem is fixed and all is good you'll disassemble the tester you made and put those new bulbs right where your old bulbs were in your brake system and that way you should be trouble free for the foreseeable future. The thing to remember is you can put a bunch of small little batteries together that you can test it will show 12 volts but that's certainly is not going to start your car . You have to have voltage and amperage to do the work
Is this the same for an emergency parking break sensor?
Thank you
Nice. Mine tested fine. Which is bad news. My lights stay on when I release the brake BUT go out and I release the key -- so no battery drain which all the other videos complain of! Hmmm...
Hey!! You Forgot to say what position the Meter is set Too, like ohms," voltage , continuity, etc., you want be seeing me anymore nuff-said 😢
Continuity test, it's the only mode on a multimeter that beeps. If you look at the video you see the spindle pointing at continuity.
Does that mean if the light stays on without pressing button in when I connect terminals both ways my light stays on and turns off when I push the button this mean I have to replace?
How to test wiring that is connected to this switch?
To test the wires individually, you will have to make a long lead for your multimeter and connect to contacts on the light socket.
However, you can also test to see if you are getting power at the socket by connecting your leads to the positive and negative contacts on your brake light socket. You may also have a tail lamp circuit back there; if so, you can either test both or look up your wiring schematics.
I'll make a video about it in the future.
@@CarsSimplified make it fast pls. And, how to test wire if I dont have aces to both wire end? In my case it is wire for camshaft sensor.
Does both the switches NO and NC are connected with ECU or only NO contact is connected with ECU?
where did you get that battery thing? what is it called?
I got it from an electronics surplus website called Jameco, and they just call it a battery holder. I have 9V battery connectors from there, too.
Does to have to be released til the very end to work or is is enough to release a little bit 0.1mm and it starts to work? My break pedal switch works fine but there is still an issue in the computer of the car with it... :/ My lights turn on in the car halfway of the switch....
So. You didn't exactly answer the question. Is the 4 prong one faulty?? You just said what it was doing