I have a number of the "645". I started using one back in 1978-1983. Got rid of it then and now I have about 6 versions. I love this format and I have been attempting to teach members of our photo club how to use them, develop the film, and now scan them. Continue to have fun shooting this camera.
Thanks for sharing the video! This is a great review on the 645. I agree that 645 is more economical and great lenses. However, when I made the jump from 35mm to medium format, It was directly to 6x6. With 6x6 one can use it square or crop it to 645. Currently I shoot 6x6 on a YashicaMat 124G, Rolleiflex 2.8D or Bronica SQ-A. When I want 645, I use the Rolleicord Vb which I adapted to 16 frames with the 16 exposure adapter kit.
I just got one of these and am waiting for my first roll to be developed. So far, so good. I had a Lubitel 166 and sold it because I hated shooting a TLR. I just could not get used to it
Congrats on the new 645! You and I are opposites when it comes to the TLR experience, my friend! Haha what about it did you not like? Let me know how that 645 roll turns out
@@imrannuri I found it difficult to focus (old eyes) and just could not get used to the way things seem to move the wrong way. Just did not feel natural
I don't like square format for most. The 645 gives me enough resolution to print up to 20" and 24x36 if need be. If I am printing large, the rb67 which is considered the perfect format. I can crop it to bx6 if wanted. I don't like tlr's locked into a 50 mm equiv lens. But that's me, we each have to find which horses for which courses.
Liked your vid, but would like to say that the difference between 645 and 35 negative when scanned is about 30 megapixels, so it's actually a huge upgrade.
Thanks for the informative, objective, while also very personal approach to reviewing the way that you used this camera. I found a decent deal on the global marketplace (the one with four letters in four colours) on a near mint Mamiya 645 1000S, I think I'm going to close that deal ;-)
Imran, great information on the 645. I've been shooting 35mm film and digital and was thinking of expanding my love for taking pictures and trying a entry level medium camera. Do you think I should look for one with a prism (or buy) viewfinder? I think I would be more comfortable with that type of finder.
If you're set on the mamiya 645, I would say the prism finder is probably the best one. It's super fun to shoot with a waist level finder, but that makes things challenging if you want to shoot a vertical photo. I think the prism finders are also way cheaper to find than the waist level ones!
Great video! I have a few questions. Is the lens that you’re using in this a 45mm? And also how is it to meter because I heard there is a built in light meter on the prism finder
This particular copy of the camera didn't have the light metering viewfinder. There's a different one that's more standard which allows for light metering within the viewfinder. The lens was a 55mm
Cool video! Did you use the prism with the light meter? I have the waist and the prism finder- but the prism’s meter doesn’t feel reliable so I just use my iPhone and the Light Meter app. Did you use the internal Mamiya meter or a separate light meter? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I didn't end up using the prism meter. The viewfinder I had didn't include the meter so I did the same as you just used my phone. Never had any issues that way
@@imrannuri Ah. What’s interesting is how the iPhone meter feels awkward because the subject feels like you’re taking a really close-up photo right before the Mamiya shot. Thinking of grabbing one of those mini 7 Artisan or Voigtlander meters.
Hi! I see you had the camera on a self timer? I have the same camera and I can’t figure out how to do that, does the camera do that itself or did you need an attachment externally? Thanks
Hey! It's built into the camera. If you see that little lever that's on the shutter button, all you have to do is spin it around all the way until it stops and swings back to its original position leaving a little orange lever. Once you give the little orange lever a push, the timer starts. I hope that's helpful! If my description isn't clear, look up the manual for the camera and you'll find instructions with images there :)
It largely depends on the daylight conditions but 1/500 is more than often fast enough. If it's very sunny out, you'll still have to use a smaller aperture even at 1/500. Look up the sunny 16 rule for a quick guide to figuring out your camera settings in various lighting conditions even without a light meter
My viewfinder in this camera actually didn't have the light meter in it. If it did, I would probably compare what the camera was saying to what an app was telling me and decide from there whether I needed to overexpose or not
My first MF camera too and now gone to another beginner into MF. Off to Hasselblad.
Having a hasselblad is definitely something I see in my future, but for now I've switched to a Yashica Mat 124g
I have a number of the "645". I started using one back in 1978-1983. Got rid of it then and now I have about 6 versions. I love this format and I have been attempting to teach members of our photo club how to use them, develop the film, and now scan them. Continue to have fun shooting this camera.
Which version was your favorite one to use ?
Thanks for sharing the video! This is a great review on the 645. I agree that 645 is more economical and great lenses. However, when I made the jump from 35mm to medium format, It was directly to 6x6. With 6x6 one can use it square or crop it to 645. Currently I shoot 6x6 on a YashicaMat 124G, Rolleiflex 2.8D or Bronica SQ-A. When I want 645, I use the Rolleicord Vb which I adapted to 16 frames with the 16 exposure adapter kit.
I just got one of these and am waiting for my first roll to be developed. So far, so good. I had a Lubitel 166 and sold it because I hated shooting a TLR. I just could not get used to it
Congrats on the new 645! You and I are opposites when it comes to the TLR experience, my friend! Haha what about it did you not like? Let me know how that 645 roll turns out
@@imrannuri I found it difficult to focus (old eyes) and just could not get used to the way things seem to move the wrong way. Just did not feel natural
I don't like square format for most. The 645 gives me enough resolution to print up to 20" and 24x36 if need be. If I am printing large, the rb67 which is considered the perfect format. I can crop it to bx6 if wanted. I don't like tlr's locked into a 50 mm equiv lens. But that's me, we each have to find which horses for which courses.
Liked your vid, but would like to say that the difference between 645 and 35 negative when scanned is about 30 megapixels, so it's actually a huge upgrade.
Well megapixels for film depends entirely on what dpi you scan at. A better way to think about it is that 645 film is about 2.7x larger than 35mm.
Thanks for the informative, objective, while also very personal approach to reviewing the way that you used this camera. I found a decent deal on the global marketplace (the one with four letters in four colours) on a near mint Mamiya 645 1000S, I think I'm going to close that deal ;-)
Thanks for the kind words! And exciting that you'll be getting your own soon too!!
Imran, great information on the 645. I've been shooting 35mm film and digital and was thinking of expanding my love for taking pictures and trying a entry level medium camera. Do you think I should look for one with a prism (or buy) viewfinder? I think I would be more comfortable with that type of finder.
If you're set on the mamiya 645, I would say the prism finder is probably the best one. It's super fun to shoot with a waist level finder, but that makes things challenging if you want to shoot a vertical photo. I think the prism finders are also way cheaper to find than the waist level ones!
Great video! I have a few questions. Is the lens that you’re using in this a 45mm? And also how is it to meter because I heard there is a built in light meter on the prism finder
This particular copy of the camera didn't have the light metering viewfinder. There's a different one that's more standard which allows for light metering within the viewfinder. The lens was a 55mm
Cool video! Did you use the prism with the light meter? I have the waist and the prism finder- but the prism’s meter doesn’t feel reliable so I just use my iPhone and the Light Meter app. Did you use the internal Mamiya meter or a separate light meter? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I didn't end up using the prism meter. The viewfinder I had didn't include the meter so I did the same as you just used my phone. Never had any issues that way
@@imrannuri Ah. What’s interesting is how the iPhone meter feels awkward because the subject feels like you’re taking a really close-up photo right before the Mamiya shot. Thinking of grabbing one of those mini 7 Artisan or Voigtlander meters.
I want a kamiya 645 so bad.. prices are around $800 for a really good one run
OOF that is $300 more than what I bought mine for at the end of 2020 😅
Hi! I see you had the camera on a self timer? I have the same camera and I can’t figure out how to do that, does the camera do that itself or did you need an attachment externally? Thanks
Hey! It's built into the camera. If you see that little lever that's on the shutter button, all you have to do is spin it around all the way until it stops and swings back to its original position leaving a little orange lever. Once you give the little orange lever a push, the timer starts. I hope that's helpful! If my description isn't clear, look up the manual for the camera and you'll find instructions with images there :)
@@imrannuri thanks! I’ll do that ☺️
Have you sold your Mamiya 645 yet? If not, please let me know. Thanks.
Can you tell please, is 1/500 shutter speed enough for daylight shooting or not?
It largely depends on the daylight conditions but 1/500 is more than often fast enough. If it's very sunny out, you'll still have to use a smaller aperture even at 1/500. Look up the sunny 16 rule for a quick guide to figuring out your camera settings in various lighting conditions even without a light meter
do you go off of the light meter directly, or do you go a stop up or stop down?
My viewfinder in this camera actually didn't have the light meter in it. If it did, I would probably compare what the camera was saying to what an app was telling me and decide from there whether I needed to overexpose or not
What phone Light meter did you use here?
I believe it was just called Light Meter Free