Hello from Ireland, I have just bought a buffing wheel, and I applied bee's wax and the brass lanyard pins go a dark color, my question is, is the wheels going to fast? I tried true oil and it went dark.... So I used the bee's wax again but I used a towel and it was fine.
This was extremely helpful, I loved this video! Although I think you could have read and encyclopedia for 20 minutes and I would have e listened anyway haha
Indasa has a sale right now on their regular backing rolls of sand paper. I just ordered 8 rolls for $12 usd per roll with just $5 usd flat rate shipping total . Not sure if you can get the same deal in your area but it is worth the search.
Would love to see what you used to build your stabiliser with, I used to use wood but had some issues with it, both with it cracking and with it getting damaged by kydex sheaths. I don’t have those same issues with micarta and g10, but there is something about wood that’s hard to beat. I have lots of rimu, just got hold of some puriri (nz hardest wood), kwila woks, ash is nice, maple hard but brittle, got hold of some desert ironwood - beautiful wood but it cracked, some lignum vitae - amazing smell and have just been given some ebony, enough for four knives I think, oh I tried some macracarpa too, a tad soft. All I use linseed oil with, although it was pointless with the ironwood and lignum, did not absorb at all!
Shelley Raskin happy to show you sometime or can try to make a vid. Thanks. I generally find if wood splits it may have been dried but has not been given time to season. Don't know ins and outs but old man was an old school apprentice trained joiner and luckily I listened occasionally.
also thinking of what you put re hard woods not absorbing, I still use the same process as as although it doesn''t absorb it will seal the external pores, keeps wood looking better and improves the polish on finishing. must be given time to polimerize to work, rushing this is biggest prob chaps seem to have when we have spoken about it, that and not thinning it and some even still using none boiled version (yes I know it is chemicals not boiling) but the standard just takes forever and never really seems to harden.
Great info!! Good on ya for lettin your doggy pal be with you. Hey what are your thoughts on making fillet knives?. I’m at the Outer Banks, North Carolina , USA .
Stephen Keefer hi there. I think fillet knives are a real challenge but what I do (only been asked for a coupke) is find out what the person wants. To go really bendy the steel has to be either very thin and or very soft, not good for edge retention, or bit thicker and stiffer to gain edge holding. I ask what they will use it for and what they want and give them it with the pros and cons discussed.
Awesome vice. I'm getting one
Very helpful tips, thank you!
Love that Pohutakawa handle Simon.
Hello from Ireland, I have just bought a buffing wheel, and I applied bee's wax and the brass lanyard pins go a dark color, my question is, is the wheels going to fast?
I tried true oil and it went dark....
So I used the bee's wax again but I used a towel and it was fine.
This was extremely helpful, I loved this video! Although I think you could have read and encyclopedia for 20 minutes and I would have e listened anyway haha
Indasa has a sale right now on their regular backing rolls of sand paper. I just ordered 8 rolls for $12 usd per roll with just $5 usd flat rate shipping total . Not sure if you can get the same deal in your area but it is worth the search.
Try putting a vacuum on them. They absorb a bunch of oil and keeps it looking great and strengthens the wood.
Would love to see what you used to build your stabiliser with, I used to use wood but had some issues with it, both with it cracking and with it getting damaged by kydex sheaths.
I don’t have those same issues with micarta and g10, but there is something about wood that’s hard to beat.
I have lots of rimu, just got hold of some puriri (nz hardest wood), kwila woks, ash is nice, maple hard but brittle, got hold of some desert ironwood - beautiful wood but it cracked, some lignum vitae - amazing smell and have just been given some ebony, enough for four knives I think, oh I tried some macracarpa too, a tad soft. All I use linseed oil with, although it was pointless with the ironwood and lignum, did not absorb at all!
Shelley Raskin happy to show you sometime or can try to make a vid. Thanks.
I generally find if wood splits it may have been dried but has not been given time to season. Don't know ins and outs but old man was an old school apprentice trained joiner and luckily I listened occasionally.
also thinking of what you put re hard woods not absorbing, I still use the same process as as although it doesn''t absorb it will seal the external pores, keeps wood looking better and improves the polish on finishing. must be given time to polimerize to work, rushing this is biggest prob chaps seem to have when we have spoken about it, that and not thinning it and some even still using none boiled version (yes I know it is chemicals not boiling) but the standard just takes forever and never really seems to harden.
Great info!! Good on ya for lettin your doggy pal be with you. Hey what are your thoughts on making fillet knives?. I’m at the Outer Banks, North Carolina , USA .
Stephen Keefer hi there. I think fillet knives are a real challenge but what I do (only been asked for a coupke) is find out what the person wants. To go really bendy the steel has to be either very thin and or very soft, not good for edge retention, or bit thicker and stiffer to gain edge holding. I ask what they will use it for and what they want and give them it with the pros and cons discussed.