nice detailed process pal!!! thanks for sharing your experience!! I'm working on how to improve my efficiency using BIAB - still sucking at it...but producing drinkable beer at least. cheers!!!
Grain crush, the rinsing of grains, recirculate if you can. Worse case, don't worry about it and add another pound of base malt or add a pound of DME. What's your PH at? Check out my latest E-BIAB vid.
Good video. I eBIAB indoors in the winter, and use propane outside in the summer. You do not have to worry about aeration Before A Boil. Boiling removes the air from the wort. Hence aeration is needed after a boil to startup the yeast for fermentation. After fermentation is when you really worry about aeration. If you introduce/expose too much air you oxidize your beer. At that point you can still drink it, distill it, or dump it. I have heard of people dry hopping (in a keg) the crap out of a oxidized beer and let it mature meow for a year. You Bottle or Keg? Cheers!
Loved the video. Great info. I was concerned about the ventilation with the burner inside and the gas containers in the background but things were O.K. Right? Your set up is amazing. I am like the cave brewer compared to you. After 35 years of brewing I finally have a biab bag got it 5 days ago. I was using a homemade affair with a very coarse mesh for the sparge. Health and Happiness Chuck.
Hey Chuck, wow this is one of my older videos now. I did open the doors and ventilate at intervals and also run a carbon monoxide detector which I speak to in one of my other videos. I'm running all electric now and and only ventilate to clear humidity. Happy brewing!
@@BenStetson I have been home brewing since the early 1980's. Got fed up with the strikes that affected the breweries in Canada in the late 1970's. Sadly only American beer was available in limited quantities. I acquired a taste for Schlitz beer but it was soon bought up and disappeared. So sad.
@@BenStetson I have brewed , I would say over 100 different recipes over the years. Now I brew 2 very simple brews, one straight barley (12 lbs,) and one (8 lbs barley 4 lbs. feed corn from the local CO-OP), 2 ozs. home grow hops. The hops are boiled separately.then added to the lauder taun with wort that has been boiled 10 min. When I can, I repich used yeast.
I haven't timed heat up times with or without the pump, I've just always used it. I think this beer is a 6%, but it was a while ago now. I usually make beers 4-6, if they are higher than that I'll cut them down unless its a clone with a specific higher gravity.
To an extent yes, but you're still at pasteurization temps. The boil "burns" off the hop oils while 170 deg has been identified as the optimal temp to extract hop oils. I think BYO has an in depth article. Whirpool hops is a pretty common practice.
Dan, it was good aeration with the pump and in many cases will work just fine. However, Wyeast recommends 10ppm of oxygen and without adequate oxygen, cell growth is limited. There is a list of undesirable issues from inadequate oxygenation. Shaking or an aquarium pump can only achieve around 8ppm due to oxygen available in "air" while injecting pure oxygen can achieve up to 16ppm. The cost is minimal for each brew IMO. Happy brewing.
I don't understand how circulating the water will heat the kettle faster. That should be determined by the amount of heat applied to the bottom. If you need to circulate the water you could just stir with a spoon or paddle.
Kirk, circulating the water simulates the stir getting the potentially less heated water in closer contact to the heat source. One could stir by hand and achieve the same results, but it's easy and consistent to run the pump.
With BIAB you do a much thinner mash. The goal is to have all the water volume, pull the grain bag and that's your volume. However, with my smaller kettle, I end up topping up for the loss to grain abortion. I've never done the math on this system, I just top back up to my 7 gal mark and hit my numbers. Typical grain abortion is .13 gal/lb. Some have reported up to .20. Morebeer, among many, has a nice calculator www.morebeer.com/content/sparge_water_calculator -Happy brewing.
I always use dry yeast but I've never oxygenated my wort. I've read that the dry yeast is formulated to work without it. It must be since I've never had fermentation problems. Good video
Correct, and sourcing Denny Conn it's not required for dry yeast but I always do it. Additionally I should also re-hydrate my dry yeast before pitching.
Still Army. I'm all about making great beer for as cheap as possible. I needed something to hoist the grain bag out, "hey, this'll work" same cord for approximately eight years with countless brew sessions.
@@BenStetson Yep, I'm Army too. The giveaway is the term "500 cord." Most civilians (and some other services) call it "paracord." Only the Army uses the term exclusively (or has it casually laying around the house). In the middle of downsizing from a 3 kettle system to an electric BIAB and just seeing how other people do it. Was debating whether to integrate a pump but you seem to make good use of it.
I'm not sure if it was this one specifically, I cant' find the receipt of course, but this looks like it's it and / or similar Cook Pro 35-Quart Stainless Steel Stock Pot www.walmart.com/ip/Cook-Pro-35-Quart-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Pot/14262127
The thinner the mash the quicker enzymes denature. Oxidation began when the malt was added to the brewing water during the single temperature rest. Technically, it is wort after hops are added before that it is extract. Why was 153F chosen? A test performed on malt uses 153F during a 20 minute rest. Malt is tested at 145, 153 and 155F. I'm not sure how soaking malt for an hour at a single temperature will produce anything but moonshiners beer and malt liquor. If secondary fermentation wasn't needed except for adding hops or something the beer is moonshiners malt liquor beer. A recipe that recommends high modified malt, single temperature infusion, no secondary fermentation and adding priming sugar or CO2 injection for carbonation makes moonshiners beer. The steps needed to make ale and lager are omitted. What leads you to believe that 5.3 pH works with single temperature infusion brewing? Mash pH is adjusted to be optimum for the particular enzyme being activated. At 153F what enzyme is active in high modified homebrew malt? A spec sheet comes with every bag of malt and without it recipes and chemical additions are inaccurate because malt is very inconsistent. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove it until it stops forming or drastically reduces after that add bittering hops. The wort will be cleaner and less hops are needed. Skim off second hot break. There is nothing beneficial in hot break. It would be best to stop with chemicals for awhile because you use a method that creates a wort lacking nutrients and is sugar and chemical imbalanced to start with and adding more chemicals only causes issues. Seldom, is brewing water treated unless distilled water is used. The off flavors and poor conditioning characteristics associated with home brew occurs during fermentation when wort lacks nutrients and is chemically imbalanced. To produce higher quality beer use Weyermann light and dark floor malt for base malt in ale and lager. The malt is under modified and low protein. Under modified means the malt is rich in enzyme content and low protein means the malt is high in sugar content. To take advantage of the high quality malt the decoction method or the step mash method should be used, preferably the decoction method. The decoction method produces authentic ale and lager. The step mash method produces pseudo ale and lager. The single temperature method makes moonshiners beer.
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Good job. I appreciate your passion explaining the process, the equipment as well as the ingredients used.
I really enjoyed this video, I am finishing up a system much like yours so thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers!
Thanks for watching, feel free to check out my other brewing videos
Just started home brewing with one gal kits. Gonna refer back to this one when I’m ready to move to the all grain BIAB with a large boil kettle!
nice detailed process pal!!! thanks for sharing your experience!! I'm working on how to improve my efficiency using BIAB - still sucking at it...but producing drinkable beer at least. cheers!!!
Grain crush, the rinsing of grains, recirculate if you can. Worse case, don't worry about it and add another pound of base malt or add a pound of DME. What's your PH at? Check out my latest E-BIAB vid.
I just purchased the Blichman riptide pump and really loving it so far
Getting a pump was the second best investment next to kegging and an absolute must for my new 12 gallon setup.
Ben Stetson Just started 20 gal batch and want to try BIAB. Details with cord and hook to pull heavy bag ???
Great video bud, I'm watching it and all I wanna do now is setup and brew 👍🍻
Great vid mate, enjoyed it alot.
The know it all commenting below must be fun at parties lol.
Good video. I eBIAB indoors in the winter, and use propane outside in the summer.
You do not have to worry about aeration Before A Boil. Boiling removes the air from the wort.
Hence aeration is needed after a boil to startup the yeast for fermentation.
After fermentation is when you really worry about aeration.
If you introduce/expose too much air you oxidize your beer. At that point you can still drink it, distill it, or dump it. I have heard of people dry hopping (in a keg) the crap out of a oxidized beer and let it mature meow for a year.
You Bottle or Keg?
Cheers!
I've kegged for a few years now, never going back.
Making beer...love the smell of beer in the morning
Loved the video. Great info. I was concerned about the ventilation with the burner inside and the gas containers in the background but things were O.K. Right? Your set up is amazing. I am like the cave brewer compared to you. After 35 years of brewing I finally have a biab bag got it 5 days ago. I was using a homemade affair with a very coarse mesh for the sparge. Health and Happiness Chuck.
Hey Chuck, wow this is one of my older videos now. I did open the doors and ventilate at intervals and also run a carbon monoxide detector which I speak to in one of my other videos. I'm running all electric now and and only ventilate to clear humidity. Happy brewing!
No issues at all with a course mesh or anything homemade at all, if it works, it works. Did you just start all grain or just start BIAB?
@@BenStetson I have been home brewing since the early 1980's. Got fed up with the strikes that affected the breweries in Canada in the late 1970's. Sadly only American beer was available in limited quantities. I acquired a taste for Schlitz beer but it was soon bought up and disappeared. So sad.
@@TheMrpiggyboy When you're out of Schlitz, you're out of beer. What do you usually brew?
@@BenStetson I have brewed , I would say over 100 different recipes over the years. Now I brew 2 very simple brews, one straight barley (12 lbs,) and one (8 lbs barley 4 lbs. feed corn from the local CO-OP), 2 ozs. home grow hops. The hops are boiled separately.then added to the lauder taun with wort that has been boiled 10 min. When I can, I repich used yeast.
Love the idea of using pump to heat water faster and whirlpool as well. How much time did u save heating up water to mash temp? Final ABV?
I haven't timed heat up times with or without the pump, I've just always used it. I think this beer is a 6%, but it was a while ago now. I usually make beers 4-6, if they are higher than that I'll cut them down unless its a clone with a specific higher gravity.
good video
I'm new to brewing so maybe I am missing something but, aren't you risking bacteria contamination by the "whirlpool" addition of hops at 170°?
To an extent yes, but you're still at pasteurization temps. The boil "burns" off the hop oils while 170 deg has been identified as the optimal temp to extract hop oils. I think BYO has an in depth article. Whirpool hops is a pretty common practice.
Your wort was plenty aerated for the yeast by using the pump to transfer your wort to your fermenter. The oxygenation step was not needed.
Dan, it was good aeration with the pump and in many cases will work just fine. However, Wyeast recommends 10ppm of oxygen and without adequate oxygen, cell growth is limited. There is a list of undesirable issues from inadequate oxygenation. Shaking or an aquarium pump can only achieve around 8ppm due to oxygen available in "air" while injecting pure oxygen can achieve up to 16ppm. The cost is minimal for each brew IMO. Happy brewing.
So how did this batch turn out!?!
This was a while ago now, I know it was good but honestly not as good as what Sierra Nevada kicks out in the bottle for their Celebration Ale.
I don't understand how circulating the water will heat the kettle faster. That should be determined by the amount of heat applied to the bottom. If you need to circulate the water you could just stir with a spoon or paddle.
Kirk, circulating the water simulates the stir getting the potentially less heated water in closer contact to the heat source. One could stir by hand and achieve the same results, but it's easy and consistent to run the pump.
With your BIAB way and doing 1.5Q of water per 1 lb of grain, what is your water/wort loss from the grain?
With BIAB you do a much thinner mash. The goal is to have all the water volume, pull the grain bag and that's your volume. However, with my smaller kettle, I end up topping up for the loss to grain abortion. I've never done the math on this system, I just top back up to my 7 gal mark and hit my numbers. Typical grain abortion is .13 gal/lb. Some have reported up to .20. Morebeer, among many, has a nice calculator www.morebeer.com/content/sparge_water_calculator -Happy brewing.
I always use dry yeast but I've never oxygenated my wort. I've read that the dry yeast is formulated to work without it. It must be since I've never had fermentation problems. Good video
Correct, and sourcing Denny Conn it's not required for dry yeast but I always do it. Additionally I should also re-hydrate my dry yeast before pitching.
Ben Stetson Oxygenating is key for higher gravity beers. ( so I’m told) headed to Home Depot for tank. No longer brew under 8% ABV.
“Right meow”
South Main Auto fan, I take it
550 cord? Ha! You must be Army.
Still Army. I'm all about making great beer for as cheap as possible. I needed something to hoist the grain bag out, "hey, this'll work" same cord for approximately eight years with countless brew sessions.
@@BenStetson Yep, I'm Army too. The giveaway is the term "500 cord." Most civilians (and some other services) call it "paracord." Only the Army uses the term exclusively (or has it casually laying around the house). In the middle of downsizing from a 3 kettle system to an electric BIAB and just seeing how other people do it. Was debating whether to integrate a pump but you seem to make good use of it.
Details on cord and hook? How much weight will it support ?
What kettle are you using?
Walmart. I got it on the cheap back around 2012? Still using it today.
I'm not sure if it was this one specifically, I cant' find the receipt of course, but this looks like it's it and / or similar
Cook Pro 35-Quart Stainless Steel Stock Pot
www.walmart.com/ip/Cook-Pro-35-Quart-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Pot/14262127
ok
The thinner the mash the quicker enzymes denature.
Oxidation began when the malt was added to the brewing water during the single temperature rest.
Technically, it is wort after hops are added before that it is extract.
Why was 153F chosen? A test performed on malt uses 153F during a 20 minute rest. Malt is tested at 145, 153 and 155F. I'm not sure how soaking malt for an hour at a single temperature will produce anything but moonshiners beer and malt liquor. If secondary fermentation wasn't needed except for adding hops or something the beer is moonshiners malt liquor beer. A recipe that recommends high modified malt, single temperature infusion, no secondary fermentation and adding priming sugar or CO2 injection for carbonation makes moonshiners beer. The steps needed to make ale and lager are omitted.
What leads you to believe that 5.3 pH works with single temperature infusion brewing? Mash pH is adjusted to be optimum for the particular enzyme being activated. At 153F what enzyme is active in high modified homebrew malt?
A spec sheet comes with every bag of malt and without it recipes and chemical additions are inaccurate because malt is very inconsistent.
Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove it until it stops forming or drastically reduces after that add bittering hops. The wort will be cleaner and less hops are needed. Skim off second hot break. There is nothing beneficial in hot break.
It would be best to stop with chemicals for awhile because you use a method that creates a wort lacking nutrients and is sugar and chemical imbalanced to start with and adding more chemicals only causes issues. Seldom, is brewing water treated unless distilled water is used. The off flavors and poor conditioning characteristics associated with home brew occurs during fermentation when wort lacks nutrients and is chemically imbalanced.
To produce higher quality beer use Weyermann light and dark floor malt for base malt in ale and lager. The malt is under modified and low protein. Under modified means the malt is rich in enzyme content and low protein means the malt is high in sugar content. To take advantage of the high quality malt the decoction method or the step mash method should be used, preferably the decoction method. The decoction method produces authentic ale and lager. The step mash method produces pseudo ale and lager. The single temperature method makes moonshiners beer.
I like moonshine beer. I also loved the barrel aged Budweiser I had last week.
technically it is sweet wort after the mash and hopped wort after hopping
I'm interested in the content but your video makes me feel drunk. A tripod of some sort would make your videos much easier to watch.
I use a tripod on my new videos.
camera man is drunk i think...
This was literally my first video published with my daughter filming, I have a better camera and a tripod now.