In your other video- comparing NHK IV plus to Morimoto; the NHK IV plus read around 824 LUX right under the cut off line but in this video it's much less. And high beam for NHK IV plus was around 1330 LUX and in this video its around 1100 LUX. Can you please explain why?
This is because in this video, they weren't standing in exactly the same position as the last video. However, the comparison between the IV Plus and the IV is still good as they were firing both lights from the same position in this video. If they moved the table a bit closer to the lux meter, they'd be able to match the IV Plus lux readings from this video to the one in the last video. This all just means that the lux reading isn't the ACTUAL output of the projector... it's just a point of reference for comparing projectors firing in a specific location at a given time. Kind of like measuring horsepower on a dyno... you aren't likely to get a perfectly accurate measurement, but more of a ballpark reading. What matters is consistency between runs. You take a baseline measurement, tune the vehicle, and then take another measurement, retune, and so on. The dyno is a tool to show the measured increase in horsepower from baseline in that specific car on that specific day. The actual number on its own is irrelevant, and is only really a reference for gains measurement. If you immediately took the same car to a different shop and ran it on THEIR dyno, you would get slightly different numbers. Same applies to lux readings here. Only intended as a point of anecdotal comparison between two projectors in identical conditions. It's likely conditions were slightly different in the last video, and that's why you observe variance between the two videos despite using the same projector.
I’m not a professional, nor should I be a quoted source of information. However, I did ask the lead designer at Morimoto, and he responded that there is not (at least as of a couple months ago) any new led projector in the works since the market has steered towards full led housings.
After messing around with my IV Plus projectors I came to realize that the yellowish color can be tuned out a little bit with some lense spacing adjustments. However that sort of yellowish/pink/reds right at the cutoff line in the center is actually caused by the second lower LED That’s used for the high beam. What actually gave me the insight into this was a friend who retrofitted some VAHID BiLED projectors and they have a separate wire for the selenoid and another wire for the second led chip on the lower reflector. Since NHK’s IV Plus 3”/2.5” projectors have come out, many other companies have tried their hand at the same thing with varying results. But he was able to turn on the second LED with the projector in low beam mode. However when he did the cutoff line’s blue color changes to a yellowish/red/purple sun the center area at closer distances. That’s what led me to figure out that on the NHK IV Plus projectors the main top LED chip and the lower reflectors LED chip are always on. Whether in low beam or high beam mode they both stay on 100% of the time even in without any wires or power going to the blue and white high beam actuating wires. I figured out that it does add some intensity to the overall output of the projector especially right in the center. If you cover the bottom LED’s light in low beam mode the cutoff looks nearly identical to the newer NHK V BiLED projector. However it isn’t quite as bright. So basically they fixed one problem by ditching the lower reflector and LED. They still must have made some improvements to the reflector bowl design and possibly the chip placement for the V projector. Since even without the second led chip it is still brighter in low beam mode and has a more useful mid ground and foreground compared to the already awesome IV Plus. Personally now that I’ve played with the lens spacing and had good results. I intend to play with the chip placement to see if I can get the hotspot to extend down a bit lower like the newer V BiLED’s. Probably won’t work as well as I hope but that’s what retrofitting is all about. Trying to modify things for our preferences. So in conclusion some of the color and cutoff strangeness on the IV Plus is coming from the fact that both LED Chips stay on 100% of the time and also seem to both be contributing to the overall low beam brightness, on top of obviously contributing to the highbeam brightness. Since tinkering with the optics I am by far much more happy with the output. But if you decide to do the same, make sure you have at least 75 feet of distance to play with. As these optics are very sensitive to small changes and can little too much spacing can render them almost unusable if you tune them to look good at 20 feet or closer. So make sure to tune them from a good distance so you know your long distance vision won’t be ruined by trying for aesthetic cutoffs and light distribution. I have also concluded that most manufacturers are making a combination type headlights on most cars with new factory LED headlights. It seems they are going for a much stronger foreground in modern Factory LED setups. Maybe this is so they don’t have to put fog lights on most models. Or maybe it’s the impression of brightness that having a lot of foreground light can make you feel. Since I have noticed that many cars have brighter foreground than I do with my biLED projectors. However my longer distance brightness is as good or better. But when I turn on my fog lights (Morimoto 4banger NCS wide white) then my foreground and longer distance lighting are all around brighter. But it seems like most manufacturers running a single BiLED projector have a much stronger foreground than I’m used to seeing. It’s basically as bright as a decent projector setup with a good fog light. Now maybe they’ve done some studies and decided that is better for most types of driving besides long distance faster speed travel. Or maybe it’s like many things and it just gives you the impression you see better since it’s so bright right in front of the car. Or maybe Im wrong all together. It’s just fun to speculate. And also I wonder what drives certain decisions in the lighting industry. It’s alway cool and interesting to see why certain trends develops and others die off slowly.
Do you have any experience with a none-clear lens for these? I swapped in a set of IV plus in my 2014 passat, and I am not a big fan of the total black right outside the hotshot. My left headlight is notably dimmer than the right one. Any chance this can be tuned? Thanks.
same observations here. I revised this projector inside out and found sources of every reflections and tints (especially this yellow tint which was making me just crazy mad) and made appropriate corrections. But I reconsidered my approach and now treat this yellowish tint as kind of "additional" light :D because you know, this actually is free piece of light from bottom LED :D I just moved around a bit the top (low beam) reflector (which now gathers much more light that was escaping the reflector otherwise) and made small correction for lens spacing. If you wanna see the result just reply here :) I can tell now, I won't even consider buying gen V now.
@Andrew H man you really know these lights lol, I currently am in the process of redoing my retrofit since the first set was a fail because of my inexperience. Im moving previously installed d2s 5.0 projectors into my high beam location on my 2011 RAV4 an am throwing the NHK IV plus in the low beam spot for a quad setup. You got any advice for me an should I be tuning the NHK or should they be good out the box? Jus wondering if the NHK IV plus is too overpowering for the d2s an if I would even be gaining additional light output
@@MrPepto93 heck yeah man that would be so great man!! I'm stuck between the mled 2.0 an the NHK 4 plus but I really like the high beam on the 4 plus jus not sure if the quality is there with them..
if my headlight had room id get the nkh 4 and 5 together but im sure i will be happy with the nkh 5 as i focus on low bean as i dont drive much at nights so dont need high beam as much and i have led bulbs on my high beams.
Nice video as always. I've used NHK IV+ in several personal builds and love them. Have been looking for more info on the V for quite a while. It looks promising for sure.
Heck yeah Derrick I love your build videos with the NHK projectors in the Silverados. I have a 2015 Silverado and just finished up a retrofit with the new NHK Gen 5, I was watching your video for guidance along the way.
@@derrickcassel Absolutely! Arranging the projector with the adapter brackets from CBD was definitely a trial and error process, I probably had them in an out 6 times trying to get it just right. My biggest issue at the end was the headlight housing cap on the back wouldn’t go on with the Projector installed. I had to heat the caps up with a heat gun and reshape them to fit. Lastly, I obtained a pair of H11 Canbus error code eliminators, however my lights still don’t turn on consistently. Returning this set from Auxbeam and trying another brand, hopefully that fixes the issue.
@@l.w.c.2519 I bought mine from Lightwerkz. They're the Diode Dynamics H11 Anti-flicker modules. When I switched over from HID to LED I forgot I would need them and had to order them after the fact lol no shame in it
So you’ve done 3 videos on the NHK 4+ and each video has different lux readings? The change in lux seem kinda drastic, even considering not 1:1 filming conditions. 1) 795/1107 in the initial impression video. 2) 828/1320 in the nhk vs mled video. 3) 685/1123 in this video.
Lux figures can and will vary between videos and tests. They should be taken lightly. By no means are these scientific lab tests. You would require a very strictly controlled environment, with the unit mounted in a jig, and the same unit used for all comparisons. Every unit is going to produce a different result. That goes for any projector. Depending on exactly where under the cutoff the measurement is taken will cause another variation. The "max lux" readings are also only one part of the equation when it comes to performance of any given unit. I do appreciate your feedback. The truth is these are all exceptionally bright units and you can't go wrong if all you are seeking is maximum brightness. Each projector has unique qualities and that is what we aim to showcase in these comparisons.
having watched the video from the beam patterns they both seem to have always on dual reflectors they are just tuned differently with different reflectors or reflector positioning because I have in the past on a quads build tuned a pair of gen 4 nhks to have a stronger low beam just like the gen 5 the reflectors can be shimmed to give different distributions
Hei, jeg har en vectra c 2007 fra fabric med halogen , men jeg vil oppgradere med denne NHK V projektor trenger man neon ekstra braketer eller den er plug and play 🤔takk på forhand
Could you do a vid comparison between HID projectors vs Bi-LED and the pros/cons in respect to longevity. For example, does the light output decrease for the Bi-LED overtime?
Always have considered a pros and cons type of video, but not a comparison as they shouldn't necessarily be compared in my opinion. Each has a place in the retrofitting industry. The light output of Bi-LED should not decrease over time like it does with HID.
RE: Bi-LED light output, I have an Alphrarex Nova series headlight on my vehicle and after 4 yrs I can reassure you the LED output is less intense than when i had first installed it. In any case, it would be nice to see the Pros/cons.
@@Nemesis74racer Ah, yes different story. You have a burning or defective led chip set in those lights if its dimmer. Technically no wear and tear parts in LED, unlike HID bulbs which wear each time they are used. In your case, a full replacement assembly would be required.
We have the new NHK M5 Plus now. You can use this bracket setup - lightwerkz.net/collections/retrofit-brackets/products/14-chevy-silverado-hd-2500-d2s-5-0-g5-r-brackets + lightwerkz.net/collections/led-projectors/products/nhk-m5-plus-bi-led-projectors-lhd (just make sure to select the h11 /9005 pin add on setup) and it should be plug and play
I have personally performed the G5R threaded HID retrofit, but I am currently struggling to comprehend how one retrofits bolt-on projectors. I'm curious about where to purchase the necessary brackets, what they are specifically called, and why there isn't a single retrofit video on RUclips for projectors that entail drilling and utilizing brackets. Could someone kindly assist me by providing pictures of these components? Thank you very much!
Not sure which you are referring too, the installation of projectors into reflectors or installation into originally projector equipped models. We have videos on both. Here is the mounting methods explained - ruclips.net/video/tlCPj92IP-Q/видео.html
Great demonstration as always! Do you guys know, if Morimoto or NHK is up to something, regarding a new projector type? It would be awesome to see a projector from Morimoto with an array of LED emitters, rather than just one LED. Especially now, when the new powerful Osram Oslon chips has arrived.
Not sure if you got your answer or not. But the mounting holes for the G5 and the NHK I, II, III, IV Plus 2.5” and 3” and the V are all using the same mounting bracket size and shape. So yes it should absolutely mount to the same adapter bracket. However since the outer dimensions of the projector are different, there’s a possibility of some tiny clearances needed to be made. Most likely it should be just a bolt in swap. Most the jobs I’ve done where they had a bracket for a G5R, G5-EX and the Morimoto D2S 5.0 have all been Interchangeable with the NHK Projectors and many of the other companies all copied the same bracket since it makes compatibility much easier. The only time I had to modify the mounting bracket was on a BMW with the adaptive function. I only had to clearance a couple small areas around the bolt holes so it would sit far enough in to clear everything when they turned to their maximum left or right positions.
@@roochiecooch Thank you for the reply. Yeah i did my conversion about a month ago, i had to clearance my housings and the projector quite a bit, but i made them fit. '19 chevy 2500, previously had the nhk g5-brt, which fit no problem.
@@slick1ton849 that’s awesome. I’m betting you’re really enjoying them! If you do a lot of night time driving like I do, you’re probably loving it. Glad you were able to get the info you needed and make it work!
@@kaosaepharn4326 it’s not a bad thing if you like it. It will give the impression of being brighter without helping distance vision. It’s not a bad thing though otherwise I doubt the OEM’s would be using such strong foreground on their own OEM designs. If you’re ever driving next to the current gen Camry or Corolla with the BILED Koito projectors just look at how much foreground they have. It makes it seem as if they have fog lights on top of the low beams. It isn’t though. It’s just a pretty strong foreground. So they must have decided that it isn’t harmful enough to hurt their distance vision. The NHK V basically gives you about the same amount of foreground as the current OEM BILED’s while still retaining a very strong light directly under the cutoff continuing to give you a very strong distance lighting. I recently acquired the V and also have the IV Plus in both my Corolla (2007) and Camry (2005). The 5 was retrofitted into a cheap set of depo lights for the Camry so I could do some testing with one NHK V projector and one NHK IV plus. My conclusion is that the V is still a great performer. And in my cars I have dual reflectors so the V is great in those. I have 2 Stroke 3.0 9005 LED’s in the high beam location on the Camry and even without it the NHK V is a very respectable high beam. It’s got a good focus in the middle of bright light giving you good long range throw. It is noticeably dimmer than the NHK IV Plus high beam if you have gotten used to that insanely nice high beam. It’s about 200 lux brighter on the wall tests over the V high beam and it is noticeable if you have good vision. Anyway I think the NHK V is a great projector. Still if you have a single filament reflector with no extra high beam, I would still choose the NHK IV plus and if you need the extra foreground just buy yourself some 4 bangers in the wide/fog pattern. If you do have the dual reflector the NHK V all day since the low beam is so well optimized. Then you don’t really need a fog light for any foreground assist. Only for foul weather really. But no foreground lighting isn’t bad if the lighting stays at least at bright further out. Too much can be a bad thing but these are hardly giving you too much foreground.
In your other video- comparing NHK IV plus to Morimoto; the NHK IV plus read around 824 LUX right under the cut off line but in this video it's much less. And high beam for NHK IV plus was around 1330 LUX and in this video its around 1100 LUX. Can you please explain why?
This is because in this video, they weren't standing in exactly the same position as the last video. However, the comparison between the IV Plus and the IV is still good as they were firing both lights from the same position in this video. If they moved the table a bit closer to the lux meter, they'd be able to match the IV Plus lux readings from this video to the one in the last video. This all just means that the lux reading isn't the ACTUAL output of the projector... it's just a point of reference for comparing projectors firing in a specific location at a given time. Kind of like measuring horsepower on a dyno... you aren't likely to get a perfectly accurate measurement, but more of a ballpark reading. What matters is consistency between runs. You take a baseline measurement, tune the vehicle, and then take another measurement, retune, and so on. The dyno is a tool to show the measured increase in horsepower from baseline in that specific car on that specific day. The actual number on its own is irrelevant, and is only really a reference for gains measurement. If you immediately took the same car to a different shop and ran it on THEIR dyno, you would get slightly different numbers. Same applies to lux readings here. Only intended as a point of anecdotal comparison between two projectors in identical conditions. It's likely conditions were slightly different in the last video, and that's why you observe variance between the two videos despite using the same projector.
@@bwiren13 👍🏼👍🏼
👌🏻
Absolutely excellent performer but has anyone heard anything if Morimoto will release a new LED projector?
I’m not a professional, nor should I be a quoted source of information. However, I did ask the lead designer at Morimoto, and he responded that there is not (at least as of a couple months ago) any new led projector in the works since the market has steered towards full led housings.
After messing around with my IV Plus projectors I came to realize that the yellowish color can be tuned out a little bit with some lense spacing adjustments. However that sort of yellowish/pink/reds right at the cutoff line in the center is actually caused by the second lower LED That’s used for the high beam. What actually gave me the insight into this was a friend who retrofitted some VAHID BiLED projectors and they have a separate wire for the selenoid and another wire for the second led chip on the lower reflector. Since NHK’s IV Plus 3”/2.5” projectors have come out, many other companies have tried their hand at the same thing with varying results. But he was able to turn on the second LED with the projector in low beam mode. However when he did the cutoff line’s blue color changes to a yellowish/red/purple sun the center area at closer distances. That’s what led me to figure out that on the NHK IV Plus projectors the main top LED chip and the lower reflectors LED chip are always on. Whether in low beam or high beam mode they both stay on 100% of the time even in without any wires or power going to the blue and white high beam actuating wires. I figured out that it does add some intensity to the overall output of the projector especially right in the center. If you cover the bottom LED’s light in low beam mode the cutoff looks nearly identical to the newer NHK V BiLED projector. However it isn’t quite as bright. So basically they fixed one problem by ditching the lower reflector and LED. They still must have made some improvements to the reflector bowl design and possibly the chip placement for the V projector. Since even without the second led chip it is still brighter in low beam mode and has a more useful mid ground and foreground compared to the already awesome IV Plus. Personally now that I’ve played with the lens spacing and had good results. I intend to play with the chip placement to see if I can get the hotspot to extend down a bit lower like the newer V BiLED’s. Probably won’t work as well as I hope but that’s what retrofitting is all about. Trying to modify things for our preferences.
So in conclusion some of the color and cutoff strangeness on the IV Plus is coming from the fact that both LED Chips stay on 100% of the time and also seem to both be contributing to the overall low beam brightness, on top of obviously contributing to the highbeam brightness. Since tinkering with the optics I am by far much more happy with the output. But if you decide to do the same, make sure you have at least 75 feet of distance to play with. As these optics are very sensitive to small changes and can little too much spacing can render them almost unusable if you tune them to look good at 20 feet or closer. So make sure to tune them from a good distance so you know your long distance vision won’t be ruined by trying for aesthetic cutoffs and light distribution.
I have also concluded that most manufacturers are making a combination type headlights on most cars with new factory LED headlights. It seems they are going for a much stronger foreground in modern Factory LED setups. Maybe this is so they don’t have to put fog lights on most models. Or maybe it’s the impression of brightness that having a lot of foreground light can make you feel. Since I have noticed that many cars have brighter foreground than I do with my biLED projectors. However my longer distance brightness is as good or better. But when I turn on my fog lights (Morimoto 4banger NCS wide white) then my foreground and longer distance lighting are all around brighter. But it seems like most manufacturers running a single BiLED projector have a much stronger foreground than I’m used to seeing. It’s basically as bright as a decent projector setup with a good fog light. Now maybe they’ve done some studies and decided that is better for most types of driving besides long distance faster speed travel. Or maybe it’s like many things and it just gives you the impression you see better since it’s so bright right in front of the car. Or maybe Im wrong all together. It’s just fun to speculate. And also I wonder what drives certain decisions in the lighting industry. It’s alway cool and interesting to see why certain trends develops and others die off slowly.
Do you have any experience with a none-clear lens for these? I swapped in a set of IV plus in my 2014 passat, and I am not a big fan of the total black right outside the hotshot. My left headlight is notably dimmer than the right one. Any chance this can be tuned?
Thanks.
same observations here. I revised this projector inside out and found sources of every reflections and tints (especially this yellow tint which was making me just crazy mad) and made appropriate corrections. But I reconsidered my approach and now treat this yellowish tint as kind of "additional" light :D because you know, this actually is free piece of light from bottom LED :D I just moved around a bit the top (low beam) reflector (which now gathers much more light that was escaping the reflector otherwise) and made small correction for lens spacing. If you wanna see the result just reply here :) I can tell now, I won't even consider buying gen V now.
@Andrew H man you really know these lights lol, I currently am in the process of redoing my retrofit since the first set was a fail because of my inexperience. Im moving previously installed d2s 5.0 projectors into my high beam location on my 2011 RAV4 an am throwing the NHK IV plus in the low beam spot for a quad setup. You got any advice for me an should I be tuning the NHK or should they be good out the box? Jus wondering if the NHK IV plus is too overpowering for the d2s an if I would even be gaining additional light output
@@champchamp1774 your NHK could be good out of the box but from my experience it's 50/50. I can show you my mods if you want
@@MrPepto93 heck yeah man that would be so great man!! I'm stuck between the mled 2.0 an the NHK 4 plus but I really like the high beam on the 4 plus jus not sure if the quality is there with them..
if my headlight had room id get the nkh 4 and 5 together but im sure i will be happy with the nkh 5 as i focus on low bean as i dont drive much at nights so dont need high beam as much and i have led bulbs on my high beams.
Nice video as always. I've used NHK IV+ in several personal builds and love them. Have been looking for more info on the V for quite a while. It looks promising for sure.
Heck yeah Derrick I love your build videos with the NHK projectors in the Silverados. I have a 2015 Silverado and just finished up a retrofit with the new NHK Gen 5, I was watching your video for guidance along the way.
@@l.w.c.2519 thanks for the compliment! I’m just glad that these videos are actually helping someone out lol
@@derrickcassel Absolutely! Arranging the projector with the adapter brackets from CBD was definitely a trial and error process, I probably had them in an out 6 times trying to get it just right. My biggest issue at the end was the headlight housing cap on the back wouldn’t go on with the Projector installed. I had to heat the caps up with a heat gun and reshape them to fit. Lastly, I obtained a pair of H11 Canbus error code eliminators, however my lights still don’t turn on consistently. Returning this set from Auxbeam and trying another brand, hopefully that fixes the issue.
@@l.w.c.2519 I bought mine from Lightwerkz. They're the Diode Dynamics H11 Anti-flicker modules. When I switched over from HID to LED I forgot I would need them and had to order them after the fact lol no shame in it
So you’ve done 3 videos on the NHK 4+ and each video has different lux readings? The change in lux seem kinda drastic, even considering not 1:1 filming conditions.
1) 795/1107 in the initial impression video.
2) 828/1320 in the nhk vs mled video.
3) 685/1123 in this video.
Lux figures can and will vary between videos and tests. They should be taken lightly. By no means are these scientific lab tests. You would require a very strictly controlled environment, with the unit mounted in a jig, and the same unit used for all comparisons. Every unit is going to produce a different result. That goes for any projector. Depending on exactly where under the cutoff the measurement is taken will cause another variation. The "max lux" readings are also only one part of the equation when it comes to performance of any given unit. I do appreciate your feedback. The truth is these are all exceptionally bright units and you can't go wrong if all you are seeking is maximum brightness. Each projector has unique qualities and that is what we aim to showcase in these comparisons.
IV plus 🕊❤
having watched the video from the beam patterns they both seem to have always on dual reflectors they are just tuned differently with different reflectors or reflector positioning because I have in the past on a quads build tuned a pair of gen 4 nhks to have a stronger low beam just like the gen 5 the reflectors can be shimmed to give different distributions
the dual reflectors on the gen 4 are always on the high beam cable does just drop the shield
RHD option?
Hei, jeg har en vectra c 2007 fra fabric med halogen , men jeg vil oppgradere med denne NHK V projektor trenger man neon ekstra braketer eller den er plug and play 🤔takk på forhand
Nice break down if I was doing project low beam is important to me
What’s the best bi-led to retrofit into a 2017 Camry?
how big are these NHK step cutoff ? similar or smaller than d2s 4,0 ?
Yes similar overall.
Is 5 Plus coming later?
Could you do a vid comparison between HID projectors vs Bi-LED and the pros/cons in respect to longevity. For example, does the light output decrease for the Bi-LED overtime?
Always have considered a pros and cons type of video, but not a comparison as they shouldn't necessarily be compared in my opinion. Each has a place in the retrofitting industry. The light output of Bi-LED should not decrease over time like it does with HID.
RE: Bi-LED light output, I have an Alphrarex Nova series headlight on my vehicle and after 4 yrs I can reassure you the LED output is less intense than when i had first installed it. In any case, it would be nice to see the Pros/cons.
@@Nemesis74racer Ah, yes different story. You have a burning or defective led chip set in those lights if its dimmer. Technically no wear and tear parts in LED, unlike HID bulbs which wear each time they are used. In your case, a full replacement assembly would be required.
Is the IV no longer available? 😭
We are using the M5 Plus now. Even stronger. lightwerkz.net/products/nhk-m5-plus-bi-led-projectors-lhd?_pos=1&_sid=4b9e2e4ef&_ss=r
Which bright bro Nhk 4 plus ya 5?
Do you offer a plug and play kit for 2019 Chevy Silverado 2500hd?
We have the new NHK M5 Plus now. You can use this bracket setup - lightwerkz.net/collections/retrofit-brackets/products/14-chevy-silverado-hd-2500-d2s-5-0-g5-r-brackets + lightwerkz.net/collections/led-projectors/products/nhk-m5-plus-bi-led-projectors-lhd (just make sure to select the h11 /9005 pin add on setup) and it should be plug and play
I have personally performed the G5R threaded HID retrofit, but I am currently struggling to comprehend how one retrofits bolt-on projectors. I'm curious about where to purchase the necessary brackets, what they are specifically called, and why there isn't a single retrofit video on RUclips for projectors that entail drilling and utilizing brackets. Could someone kindly assist me by providing pictures of these components? Thank you very much!
Not sure which you are referring too, the installation of projectors into reflectors or installation into originally projector equipped models. We have videos on both. Here is the mounting methods explained - ruclips.net/video/tlCPj92IP-Q/видео.html
How are these supposed to be installed? They look like they are open to the elements if installed using the brackets.
They are meant to be installed inside sealed headlight assemblies. Definitely cannot be mounted so they are exposed.
Does the color temp kelvin seem to be the same?
Appears to be.
Great demonstration as always!
Do you guys know, if Morimoto or NHK is up to something, regarding a new projector type?
It would be awesome to see a projector from Morimoto with an array of LED emitters, rather than just one LED.
Especially now, when the new powerful Osram Oslon chips has arrived.
Have not read or heard about anything on the horizon. 👍
Can I put this into my Yukon Denali 2011
Absolutely.
@@LightwerkzGlobal where can I buy the light kit from?
@@rodneygeter6057 Right on our site - lightwerkz.net/collections/led-projectors
What is the name of the kit ?
Do you shop by the make and model of your vehicle?
NHK G5 BRT vs NHK V Bi-LED?
Is this the same NHK company from Japan that does the TV cameras and broadcasting equipment or is it a Chinese company?
Probably different, NHK is based in China.
Will these bolt up to my g5-brt adapter plate?
Also will the LHD version be back in stock soon?
Not sure if you got your answer or not. But the mounting holes for the G5 and the NHK I, II, III, IV Plus 2.5” and 3” and the V are all using the same mounting bracket size and shape. So yes it should absolutely mount to the same adapter bracket. However since the outer dimensions of the projector are different, there’s a possibility of some tiny clearances needed to be made. Most likely it should be just a bolt in swap. Most the jobs I’ve done where they had a bracket for a G5R, G5-EX and the Morimoto D2S 5.0 have all been Interchangeable with the NHK Projectors and many of the other companies all copied the same bracket since it makes compatibility much easier. The only time I had to modify the mounting bracket was on a BMW with the adaptive function. I only had to clearance a couple small areas around the bolt holes so it would sit far enough in to clear everything when they turned to their maximum left or right positions.
@@roochiecooch
Thank you for the reply.
Yeah i did my conversion about a month ago, i had to clearance my housings and the projector quite a bit, but i made them fit. '19 chevy 2500, previously had the nhk g5-brt, which fit no problem.
@@slick1ton849 that’s awesome. I’m betting you’re really enjoying them! If you do a lot of night time driving like I do, you’re probably loving it.
Glad you were able to get the info you needed and make it work!
Can the bracket be changed?
Adapter brackets can be purchased. What model are you retrofitting?
The huge intensity zone on 5 will also give you lots of foreground lighting.
Is that a bad thing? I remember people use to cry about too much foreground and would install limiters. It personally doesn’t bother me.
@@kaosaepharn4326 it’s not a bad thing if you like it. It will give the impression of being brighter without helping distance vision. It’s not a bad thing though otherwise I doubt the OEM’s would be using such strong foreground on their own OEM designs. If you’re ever driving next to the current gen Camry or Corolla with the BILED Koito projectors just look at how much foreground they have. It makes it seem as if they have fog lights on top of the low beams. It isn’t though. It’s just a pretty strong foreground. So they must have decided that it isn’t harmful enough to hurt their distance vision. The NHK V basically gives you about the same amount of foreground as the current OEM BILED’s while still retaining a very strong light directly under the cutoff continuing to give you a very strong distance lighting. I recently acquired the V and also have the IV Plus in both my Corolla (2007) and Camry (2005). The 5 was retrofitted into a cheap set of depo lights for the Camry so I could do some testing with one NHK V projector and one NHK IV plus. My conclusion is that the V is still a great performer. And in my cars I have dual reflectors so the V is great in those. I have 2 Stroke 3.0 9005 LED’s in the high beam location on the Camry and even without it the NHK V is a very respectable high beam. It’s got a good focus in the middle of bright light giving you good long range throw. It is noticeably dimmer than the NHK IV Plus high beam if you have gotten used to that insanely nice high beam. It’s about 200 lux brighter on the wall tests over the V high beam and it is noticeable if you have good vision. Anyway I think the NHK V is a great projector. Still if you have a single filament reflector with no extra high beam, I would still choose the NHK IV plus and if you need the extra foreground just buy yourself some 4 bangers in the wide/fog pattern. If you do have the dual reflector the NHK V all day since the low beam is so well optimized. Then you don’t really need a fog light for any foreground assist. Only for foul weather really. But no foreground lighting isn’t bad if the lighting stays at least at bright further out. Too much can be a bad thing but these are hardly giving you too much foreground.
Which is better?
All depends on your own needs.
Tey nhk biled laser