In a 3 minute video you can't explain all the different ways to describe what's going on, but Paul has done an excellent job of describing it from his perspective and his skiing is outstanding and a great model. One of the important things to note that wasn't described is how pressure is "applied". It really isn't "applied", but ALLOWED, created by the momentum/centrifugal force created at the exit of a turn, combined with the flexion/extension (that Paul describes) as it meets the direction change. While he mentions "softening" of the inside leg, the inside leg provides far more than mentioned. It allows him to "ski into" a squared position in every turn while keeping any motion of the upper body passive. Also, note how he shapes the top of each turn. He doesn't mention turn shape at all, but this is essential. This is one of the best video demonstrations I've seen!
Hi Paul, I'm Massimiliano, from Italy, I like very much your videos and I must congratulate you! It is impressive, in your skiing, the great angulation and deflection that you manage to create since the beginning (as soon as you start, the first or the second turn at latest), while the majority of good skiers manage to create angulation and deflection increasingly and gradually as the speed increase, only after some turns, and this was the same for me, but now, thanks to your video and suggestions, I'm starting to manage to anticipate the angulation a lot, just after the start. The wonderful aspect of your videos is that you do not say: "you must do this, you must do that", but you give cues about internal sensations and goals and objectives that everybody can keep in mind to reach their own target in skiing. In this video I appreciated very much the cue about "lifting" the internal part of the body and then to "stay strong" (on the external)! With this simple, but very effective suggestion in mind, I managed to find again sensations that I'd lost for over 20 years (I will be 50 this year 😊 and I stopped sport skiing at about 28 and started again a couple of years ago 😊). Thank you very much! ... and keep it up this way! 😊 And if you will come to ski in Italy, let me know! 😊 Bye, Massimiliano👋
Hi Paul.... I really like your explanations. Also like the fact you are skiing On Volkl... I worked and have been part of Volkl Canada for 1972 to 1995. When I taught selected people over the years we stressed the forward pressure into the ski and let the ski do the work. Yes it was much harder then to carve...particularly on 210's but carve we did. It was really fun in the bumps as we could run the arc of the bend of the ski... down from the tip into the tail and the ski would just explode as it came off the bump.... After some 65 years skiing, 22 - 23 is my 65th, I still carve and love to carve....albeit not as low with the hip as I would like to be but maybe i am asking an old battered body to do too much.... KEEP CARVING.... STACY HILL
As a PSIA Level 3 I can say this is a great video. One thing he left out (sort of) of a great explantation is a slight retraction or deflection/rebound of his skis as he completes his turn and move into the next turn. When he talks of softening his downhill leg this is what he is referring to. How active his retraction or deflection is depends on the situation and may in these turns be solely reactionary and not active at all. And it helps to ski 300 days a year. these turns and those of his buddy Riley are what all skiers not in the gates should aspire to.
I am one who totally agrees with what you are saying. Your description of your movements is clear and concise and confirms my understanding of what should be happening. A close viewing of the video also clarifies for me how quickly you can start shorting the inside leg if you wish to tighten up the arc. Thank you! Happy skiing, Bill.
Thanks so much for sharing your insights into carving. Absolutely the clearest presentation of what you're doing as you make those awesome turns. Love the vector diagrams!
Incredible skiing as always Paul. Excellent articulation of what one should be feeling. Keep up the good work and looking forward to skiing with you again.
...very good! One of the best explanations! ...as you are right mentioned ...you can do it different but the most impotent thing for me is to feel the ski how he want to be driven ...and you have to trust him 100% on the begin of the turn. There are also slightly differences from ski to ski and you have to find the one who fits the most to your style.
Exemplary skiing to say the least Paul! I have been sharing this video with my ski posse as the definitive best way to tip & rip out there. I see mention of arm position in comments below. As a former 'Highline Rat' who skied moguls from '66-76 at Vail one of the things that I addressed when I retired from bumps and became a Masters racer and now into a 'different sport' was unlearning an intentional bending of my arms at the elbows. I have found that (even though sometimes I have to remind myself) extending the arms slightly as you do in your video is much more conducive to good (and relaxed) turns...
Great explanation. I soften by first feeling the uphill edge of the inside ski to start bleeding the pressure off of the outside ski.Pinky side to big toe side on the ball of the foot.Learned this from my first mentor "Tom Long " when i joined RMSIA in 1978 at Sandia Peak NM.Ski design has been the real breakthrough and has allowed great athletes like yourself to demonstrate the perfect blending of the skills concept promoted by PSIA.Fantastic skiing young man !!
Great video Paul! Thanks for the insights and replies. Would love to see a 'How To' video related to your style, in particular the movement and positioning of the arms and wrists in different types of turns. There are some great skiers out there, yet styles can differ. One element of style that is immediately noticeable is usually arm movements (height of hands, how far hands move outside/inside, pole planting etc.) The discussion of style and differences in arm movements were discussed a bit in some of your Japanese Tech comp related videos. For those that would like to emulate your style, it would be great to hear what your queues and internal feelings are as it relates to this.
Thanks for your comment. That's an interesting comment about arm position because I agree that it can impact the overall aesthetics of a skier almost more than some of the movements made by the body. My goal is maintain an arm position that requires minimal movement to pole plant and goal is for it to look relaxed (although this is a constant challenge). I have struggled with a very "Austrian" rigid arm position and am constantly trying to straighten my arms. A lot of the videos posted recently have been in preparation of competitions in Japan where they ski with very straight and wide arms. My internal focus is to keep my elbows from rising to high and my hands forward so that I can see them in my peripheral. I hope this helps and wish you all the best.
I really appreciate these videos. You illustrate perfect technique and explain it well. I took the concept of toppling to the hill today and put it into practice. I was doing it sporadically before but wasn't sure if it was supposed to feel literally like 8 was about to topple but hearing you say it really reinforces it. Thank you
Very inspiring skiing, Paul! Thanks a lot. I really enjoy following you and Reily's skivids. Perhaps my comment has already been mentioned and replied too. If so apologies. Anyways - I cannot help, but noticing that you seem to have a sort of active lift of your inside ski at the initiation of the turn. It reminds me of the pedal transition turn, that was once part of my skiinstructor training in the Danish skiing association. I imagine that it helps you establish 100% weight and balance on the outside ski and given the extreme angulation you are able to exercise. But on the 'critical' side, is it not also a bit unnecessary or 'too active' considering the mantra of the current skiing paradigm as a matter of the most effective, necessary and minimalist movement? Perhaps a bit nerdy - I hope you can follow me. And as said, your skiing is extremely inspiring and the best to envision when practising.
The tip that hit home with me was lifting the inside hip. Not sure why, but it works better than trying to push the outside hip down. Also "shortening the inside leg" was not really effective until I consciously pulled up the hip. Even on 26 meter skis, I'm tightening the arc and skis are running quieter. Thanks!
Paul - can you, base on this excelent video, make a part2 , and focus on hips and shoulders, draw some lines and arrows of directions. Legs are something that all instructors talk about, but I am confused about contr-rotation of hips in the turn. How deep is that movement? it looks like your siting on the slope little bit behind the upper shoe. Where do you try to keep the center of your shoulders? Towards the turn direction or down the slope? How do you keep your legs close to each other (my mistake is that I am riding to wide and dont know how to keep them closer)... many many questions, and the answear is usally to focus on the outside ski ;) haha
Hi Artur, thanks for the comment. I will do my best to create something to answer your questions. It’s a little difficult to ski and video with the Covid restrictions at the moment. But I’ll add it to my list. In the meantime check out some of the videos on the Projected Productions ALL ACESS VIDEO PASS where you can find content on exactly that point. www.projectedproductions.com/allaccessvideopass
Sometimes I actively try to create the maximum angle possible just as a drill. You'll feel a significant stretch in your inside hip. However, I've definitely managed to strain muscles trying to overexaggerate that separation before.
@@simonhauer3107 I imagine putting my inside shoulder over my inside ski tip--this creates rotational separation and will feel awkward when you exaggerate it. At the same time, you can try to keep your shoulders level while feeling the vertical separation at your inside hip joint. I'm sure someone can describe it better than me, but it's a drill method where you really need external feedback.
@@simonhauer3107 Look at the still shot at 2:04. See how close his knee is to his chest? I somewhat purposely lift my inside knee towards my chest as I allow my body to collapse down and inside as I extend the outside leg. This not only gives high edge angles, it also allows good weight shift to the outside ski. I know "real" instructors would not agree with my description. Most of them suck anyway.
@@rustyme1122 Thank you for your answer. The reason why I need the inside knee close to my chest is that otherwise my inner ski boot would touch the snow and I lay down? Did I get this right? And regarding the angles there is a difference between the inside and the outside?
Paul very nice explanation of "cross under" really well done. In your next one unless have already done it you might want to add projection into the next turn. I understand why you didn't in this one, there is only so much time and too much all at one time can confuse some people. Great job! But I would expect no less from a National D Team Member😊
Hi Mike, Thanks for the comment and nice words. I put this video up as an insight into my focuses in skiing. I personally don't focus on projection into the turn as much as others might. Some people do and that's really good but not so much a focus of mine. Thanks again.
Paul great job both demonstrating and explaining your cues/mechanics. May I suggest that it would be more accurate to say at 1:12 that MOMENTUM (brief linear momentum, tangent to the arc from the release of edge angle) will carry the new ski 'out' rather than pressure. Keep up the good work. Next steps... are there external cues that are helpful? Is there a way to engage the step reflex?
Hi Bryan, Reilly McGlashan has made an excellent video of dry land training that will help your skiing. You can find it in the projected library: www.projectedproductions.com
Hi Paul You & Reilly really have it dialed in! Very few people really understand the relaxation or "softening" motion that is the key to efficient transitions without all the up that you see in PSIA trained skiers.
Hi Bob, It's difficult to say. It's like asking how fast you have to go to tip a bike of a certain amount when riding. Repetition in skiing builds a touch/feel that allows you to continue moving in if the forces allow it. The more you do the more you can estimate the speed before you set off. It is very difficult to estimate the actual speed though - sorry.
As always, great explanations and insights. Thanks for the great work. It would be great if you could state, which kind of ski you're using for every respective video.
Thanks for the comment Alban. I'll be sure to post ski specs in the future. In this video i'm skiing on the Volkl Racetiger WC SL with plate. Thanks again
Paul, crazy good carving! Thanks for the vid! One q concerning the transition phase: Do you actively lift the new inside ski? In many turns one can see at least the tip clearly in the air. Could you comment a bit on this habit/technique?
Thanks for the comment. When you push the outside foot/ski forward through the arc to maintain balance against the snow it can become difficult to release/roll/change edge if the timing of the foot forward or amount is incorrect. As such the tip/whole ski may come off the snow during transition or end of previous turn. This also assists with the toppling/cross over into the new turn. If everything is timed well then it shouldn't happen :( I just need to keep practising. You might often see this in SL racers to if a transition needs to happen quickly or the skier outside foot has ended to far in front of them to accurately roll the foot and knee to release the previous turn. Anyway I hope this helps.
@@paullorenz6389 Thanks Paul, this surely helps! It is also very encouraging to read that even you still have to practice hard & that you have some "weak" spots. Btw, can't wait to order & watch LEGACY, hopefully it will be released soon! Greetings from Austria!
SansibarRacing thank you, Legacy will come out on the 15Dec. We are moving out entire projected library to the website (www.projectedproductions.com) so for a small monthly subscription you can get an all access pass to all projected vids! Can’t wait and thanks for your support :)
Great skiing and helpful insight into what you are doing with your body to achieve these turns. I wonder how your approach or turns would change on really hard snow?
Dear Paul, great skill and great video Could you please also tell what kind of skis you are using in your videos. Type and Radius would be fine and what kind of skis you recommend for the "normal mortals" who challenge themselves to come close to you.... :-) All the best to you Tom from Germany
Hi Tom, I mainly ski on the FIS WC Racetiger SL 165cm, or the FIS construction Racetiger GS 183cm r25. For carving, the retail version version of either ski is a good choice for recreational skiers. SL if you’re going slower or GS if you’re going faster. I have recently posted a video about the differences between the FIS model and retail version of the SL ski. The Deacon is also a very good ski for carving and the width offers a little more versatility. Thanks for your comment.
My biggest problem with adopting this technique is the center of mass shifting fat too backwards in my case , I just can't bend my legs any further forward and I still feel like I'm not above the middle of the skis
Great skiing! transferring balance from foot to foot is so smooth and uninterrupted. Question - are you extending outer leg through pressure (action) or through retraction of inner leg (reaction)?
I am trying to use the pressure from the previous turn to send my skis out to the side while the CoM crosses the skis to create leg length. I don't ever feel pushing of the outer leg.
@@paullorenz6389 Thanks Paul - that confirms my thoughts . In England, some instructors tend to be obsessed with pushing on / pressuring the outer ski to turn it - the more the better. I have never believed that this is correct. Thanks again for the reply. Enjoy your lovely snow - best wishes from England where we ski on 160m plastic slopes!
Thanks for your message. Ski Radius depends depends on the speed, gradient and snow quality. If you are going slower, on flatter terrain or the snow is soft then a smaller radius ski is easier for carving. If you are going fast or it's steeper then a longer radius will be more stable. This video was shot on a steeper black groomed run with softer snow. In this video I am skiing on a slalom ski, and the same can be done on GS if the conditions and speed are conducive.
The ski he's on is a 2019 Volkl Racetiger 13m Radius with a raceplate - it is either a 165 or a 170. The ski has a particularly stiff tail which can & will create a lot of rebound coming out of a compression so back seat driving with this ski will launch you forward if you aren't careful. If you watch the video you can actually see the rear of the ski getting air in a few of his transitions. It's an amazing ski but really only when you are 100% committed to ski aggressively with good technique - then it is like a racecar that comes alive with speed. I own a pair in the 170 length and I only use them when I'm completely committed to skiing almost in the way you are seeing in this video - otherwise there are way more fun skis, that are almost as powerful, but 10x more playful and fun - such as an Enforcer 88. I've watched this video 30 times and play it back in my mind in order to improve my technique.
? Unclear at 2:00. The lifting and pullling with arrows. What forces are involved in the lifting or pulling? I would think the "push" from the cintripetal forces would cause the inside leg in flexion to absorb what little pressure there is as the vast majority of pressure is in the outside ski. What is causing the lifting and pulling shown by the arrows?
While I'm not the OP, I was practicing his advice over the weekend and I think that the lifting and pulling is almost entirely due to the skier's engagement. The "topple" helps you get both skis over to the opposite side in one even movement. Right before you "extend" that outside leg, there's a slightly more even distribution of force over both new edges. That initial force is what helps you bring the new inner leg closer to your chest, similar movement to picking up your leg when standing up-right. It feels like as you pull that inner leg upwards and inwards, towards your chest, that your outside leg wants to push away from you slightly. These movements feel almost natural, as otherwise you'll feel like you're about to fall over. Practice getting comfortable with the topple and I think it'll start to fall into place.
László Hargitai thanks for your comment. This suit is made by Onyone Japan. They make great technical gear: en.onyone.co.jp I’m not sure if this mode is available yet for sale but it will be coming soon. You can email them through the contact details on the website to find out more.
If you were to give a percentage, Can you give an idea of how much pressure is on your uphill ski edge compared to the downhill ski edge during the “meat” of the turn?
Jeffery Rowe 100% outs ski, 0% inside. It’s not so much about weight. I try to align my CoM and outside foot against centripetal force that pushes from the snow. It is about resisting this force with my outside leg. Some talk about this as balance. I don’t think about my “weight” so much.
@@paullorenz6389 Maybe my question is stupid but if pressure on the inside ski is 0% how does it bend and stay parallel to the outside ski? Doesn't it need a similar pressure in order to carve equally as the outside ski?
@@vladanos While there needs to be some load or pressure on a ski to bend it, it is the edge angle that allows the ski to increase bend. You can bend a ski by holding and pushing on it with your hand as you do in the shop (which is not a lot of force). As such the weight of your relaxed inside leg is enough for it to bend (providing it is edged). There are times you may see top skiers with outside ski bent and inside ski not bent. Briefly at times under extremely load I brace solely against the outside with all my balance and the skis and not bent equally. you will see this if you freeze frame world cup skiers also. Anyway this is a tricky discussion to have on youtube. All the best and good luck with your skiing :)
Paul - excellent carving technique! I am hoping you can help me with a ski question. I love carving on my 10 yr old Atomic Metron 10’s (164 cm with 12.5m radius, 125-74-109) but I want something a little more stable at higher speeds. I’m 6’2” tall so was thinking the Nordica Enforcer 88 in 179 cm would be good. They are 121-88-109 and 15.5m @ 172 cm. Really appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks!
Hi Daniel, yes the extra 8cm in length and longer radius will provide more stability at speed. I haven’t seen you ski but you could even go longer (180cm and r. 17/18m) particularly given you height. Hope this helps.
On the blue runs by the time my hip gets close to the snow, my skis are pointing back up the hill. I find it easier to get the hip closer to hill and continue to the next turn on the single black runs. I guess the question is, does steepness play a part in getting the hip close or touching the snow?
Thanks for the comment. Hips on the snow is a result of increasing the edge. It's not my goal but is a result if I'm going fast enough and the slope is steep enough to warrant this amount of edge. Blue runs are probably not steep enough. I hope that helps answer your question?
Hi Simon, I do want to pressure the tip of the skis during the initiation of the turn (after the skis find the new edges and before the fall line). I focus more on the angle that I cross my skis. If I cross too directly down the hill I fall inside and lose outside ski pressure. If I cross too much forward along the length of the ski it forces me to rise into a taller position due to an opening in the knee joint to move forward. As such my goal is to cross the skis (change edges) in a compact position so that I have greater mobility with the lower parts of my leg, and then as the legs extend out to the side and I move in at the top of the turn, I try to extend with movement on to the tip before the fall line. As the pressure builds I try to move my feet forward to find the centre of the ski and balance against the pressure that pushes back from the snow. I hope this helps answer your question.
I love your vids and i have a question. How do you maintain pressure on outside ski while your hips are on the snow (at the fall-line)? I am a skiracer trying to carve like this (not in a course but in freeruns) but i have two problems: my hips rarely hits the snow and when they do, i usually loose pressure on outside ski. How do i fix these problems?
Its very difficult to say without watching you ski. The inside ski needs to be relaxed and softened out of the way. If its in the wrong place one ends up relying on it. also your hip position could be a factor. any rotation of the hip cause movement to the inside. Its hard to say without skiing with you. Hip on the snow is only brief, its not a position you should hold for long otherwise you fall in. It's a position that results from edging the skis as much as possible before transitioning.
@@paullorenz6389 A million thanks for your reply. You are my greatest hero, one of them anyway. I would be thrilled if you commented on my skiing.This is me one year ago. I have come a long way since then and you can check out more videos like that on me skiing if you have time. ruclips.net/video/YdHnGNzr2uw/видео.html ruclips.net/user/Triggerboy62videos
@@Chris-jr8ci Hello Chris I'm a subscriber to triggerboy channel! It's nice to see you here. I think one of Paul's earlier comment also explains about hip getting lower. Low hip is the result of high edge angle, which is coming from high speed and steep terrain. So sometimes if you focus on lowering hip, you may lose outside ski pressure if you are fast or on steeper runs. This kind of happened to me as well in my earlier years. Thanks!
Hi Paul, I see that you're using Racetiger SL. Is it just SL or SL Pro. Which binding do you have? rMotion 12, 16, 18? Do you have a race plate? What's the length of your skis? 165cm? Any detailed feedback on them? I cant find a demo pair on these given they're pretty expensive? I'm looking to buy a pair, just 165cm SL with 12 binding and they are quite expensive like $900 so I would really appreciate your feedback. I'm not into a race competition but love short turns/quick carving on groomed trails. Do you think these are overkill for a pro intermediate or beginner advanced skier? Thank you for your response in advance.
Thanks for the comment. I use the FIS WC SL which has the WC plate in 165cm. Currently using the rMotion 16. I have also skied the regular race tiger SL without the plate quite a lot. I think for recreational skiing this is the idea ski as it is more versatile with terrain and a little more forgiving. The Pro (with plate) adds an element of stiffness and raises you up giving quicker access to the edges. As such it requires more precision and makes it a little more tricky off piste. The FIS WC is unforgiving and stiff. However on the groomed it performs above and beyond for expert level skiers. So I guess you need to think firstly what level skier are you and also what you really want to use this ski for? That said, I spend a lot of time on the Regular SL without plate and it performs well. I hope that helps
@@paullorenz6389 Hi again Paul, thank you so much for your detailed response. Yea, I'm shooting for just recreational skiing. feel like the Pro or WC and race plate are way too much/stiff for me. I only have all mountain skis right now, Atomic Vantage X 80CTI at 173cm to be specific and I'm looking to up my game on short/quick turn carving. Another alternative I'm looking at is 2018/19 Volkl Deacon 74. Have you skied on them? (please let me know your thought if you have) From my research, seems like they are great at carving and initiating short turn as well. I'm just torn between the two. I dont mind buying skis that are a bit over my level because I dont want to outgrow them in just a few runs. I'm 5'10/11 and 165lbs and considered myself between advanced and expert. Do you think regular Racetiger SL 165 cm is worth a shot? or maybe the new Deacon 74. The problem is I cant find any demo shops that carry these two in the east coast USA. But still, I dont think I could go wrong buying either one blindly. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks so much again.
@@ppmaster8 Yes they are a great ski but if you are after a short turn ski then the SL is more suitable. The Deacon is great for carving groomers and the additional width makes it more versatile off piste. However for short turns I would definitely go the SL.
#Paul when you soften your outside leg it retracts and then you extend the other leg. Is this retraction and extension the same as you would do in the bumps/
Hey Robert, Not sure of the exact angles. The WC boot comes with 2 different boot boards. I am using the one with ramp angle not the flat one. I have also added an 8mm rubber wedges on top of the heel of each boot board. I have kept the spoiler in the rear of the liner. I have also canted the upper use angled base plates. 1.5 degrees on the left and 2 degrees on the right.
@@paullorenz6389 Thank you for the info - I asked the questions because of the huge ankle/knee angles combined with huge ski edge angles that you develop-great video-super skiing.
Hello, May I ask some questions. Do I need to squeeze my inside leg to short the distance with outside while carving. I found my leg distance quite far when I carve. My legs are parallel and no A shape. Should I put my legs more tight together while doing short carve turns?
Thanks for the comment. The legs should be hip width at all times so that the legs are aligned and you are able to tip as both legs evenly as needed. The legs shouldn't get wider as you increase the edge but as the inside leg gets shorter, the distance between the skis will increase. Check out this article that may explain this more clearly: www.paullorenzclinics.com/post/stance-how-wide-is-too-wide
The right legged turn is much better than the left.... Overall, too much edge angle relative to speed. Yes, you read that correctly. I see this all over the internet from so called expert skiers and it is just wrong, at least if you want to really go fast (racing, etc) I call it being an "edge angle hero". Proper skiing is about much more than just edge angles. Edge angle should be matched to load/speed. When you focus on edge angle too much, you start creating side angulation early in the turn to balance. It is sort of like the old "bannana" position from the 70s/80s. What exactly is wrong with that? It is a WEAK position. You NEVER see elite skiers with huge side break early in the turn. It is also why you should avoid doing the Schlopy Drill. There are two major elements to this game. #1 - CREATE HIGH ANGLES TO CREATE HIGH TURNING FORCES. Use edge angles to create more turning force matched to a given speed. Too much edge angle for a given speed, is functionally the SAME as too little speed for a given edge angle. When you are going too slow for a given edge angle, what will happen to your body? You will FALL INWARDS. How do you counteract this? You break sideways at the waist and shift your CoM to the outside of the turn. What do we see in the skiing of all the edge angle heroes? Massive side break at or even before the fall line. Reilly is probably the worst. They are doing this because they are going TOO SLOW for their edge angle. Frankly most people are not physically capable of handling the loads created by a 70 degree edge angle at any sort of real speed. So some very good skiers go far too slow for their edge angles, then compensate with side break, all while telling themselves how great they are. You will see 45 degrees...even more...angle between the torso and the leg/force line which is square to the top sheets. Now...go look at a WC skier. That angle is more like 10-20 degrees. On the very best greased turns it is close to zero? Why is this? #2 - THE BODY MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE LOADS CREATED. If you are going fast, and you create large edge angles, what are the loads on your body going to be? MASSIVE. We are talking 3-4 G's!. THAT is performance skiing. Cranking 70 degree edge angles while you are going 20 mph...with a massive side break at the waist ...sorry...that is just a joke. True elite skiing requires carrying massive loads. To do that, you have to "get stacked" That means little side break early to mid turn. Your torso is close to inline with the leg-line/force line. Narrow horizontal stance with larger vertical ski separation. The vertical separation and overall body inclination gives you edge angles, plus a nearly straight DH leg...and very short inside leg. Drive the outside boot back, and scissor forward with the inside ski. All these work together to enable your body to handle massive loads on one ski. Modern elite skiing is the creation of maximum edge angles at maximum speed while doing a one legged cheater squat with 300# on your back. In summary, there are two aspects to this game. Use angles and speed to create load but also put your body in a position to handle massive loads. If you are cranking high edge angles...then going slow, and using side break to compensate, you are frankly a poser. Take the time to watch WC level skiers. Look at their upper body relative to their leg line axis. They are more aligned. This is a STRONG position. THIS is elite skiing. Large side kink or angle at the waist between the torso and legs early in the turn is a sign that the skier is going too slow relative to the edge angles created. This is a bad habit. Too many people are so fixated on edge angles and they are screwing up their skiing to achieve those angles. We use a stopwatch to just the best skiing, not a protractor.
No one cares about ski racing except for two weeks every four years. What skiers want is a flow that is beautiful to watch and fun to do. And to anticipate the obvious rebuttal: the best freeskiers have mogul and park backgrounds, not alpine racing backgrounds. So no, I don't think people who aspire to great skiing have to master alpine racing fundamentals.
@@shooter7a You're spot on. Any WC skier stacks over their skis with skeletal alignment and any "kink" or bending of the spine can lead to serious back injuries. What makes it look like they are a "banana" to some people I think is the fact that their pelvic bone is actually tilted to keep their inside ski on edge. I've heard race coaches teach that the best way to get the skis on edge (after initial ankle tipping and unweighting) is to shorten the inside leg. They are also spot on, because in order to shorten the inside leg enough to eventually reach high edge angles, the hip has to almost level with the snow in order for the inside leg to shorten where they want it to be. The Mikaela Shiffrin "hip hike" video demonstrates this. She only hikes her hip enough for the speed she is at. If she hikes too far or not enough for the turn, obviously would loose balance.
Really dnow, you have that filling, or mbe you not mentioned it. But really important thing for active edge skiing(adn carving) is fore back ballance or precisely foot ballance (toy/heel). And additional leg extesion at the end of the arc is a part of it. Gluck
I want to share my thinking about high edge angle. And i want to know how do you think about it. I think, High edge angle that isn't suited with slope isn't useful for transition performance and speed. How do you think??
Softening meaning not staying strong/long. You can see at 0:53 the left leg shortening/flexing/softening through completion and not staying rigid and long.
In a 3 minute video you can't explain all the different ways to describe what's going on, but Paul has done an excellent job of describing it from his perspective and his skiing is outstanding and a great model. One of the important things to note that wasn't described is how pressure is "applied". It really isn't "applied", but ALLOWED, created by the momentum/centrifugal force created at the exit of a turn, combined with the flexion/extension (that Paul describes) as it meets the direction change. While he mentions "softening" of the inside leg, the inside leg provides far more than mentioned. It allows him to "ski into" a squared position in every turn while keeping any motion of the upper body passive. Also, note how he shapes the top of each turn. He doesn't mention turn shape at all, but this is essential. This is one of the best video demonstrations I've seen!
Paul, this is not just skiing but poetry in motion!
Hi Paul, I'm Massimiliano, from Italy, I like very much your videos and I must congratulate you! It is impressive, in your skiing, the great angulation and deflection that you manage to create since the beginning (as soon as you start, the first or the second turn at latest), while the majority of good skiers manage to create angulation and deflection increasingly and gradually as the speed increase, only after some turns, and this was the same for me, but now, thanks to your video and suggestions, I'm starting to manage to anticipate the angulation a lot, just after the start.
The wonderful aspect of your videos is that you do not say: "you must do this, you must do that", but you give cues about internal sensations and goals and objectives that everybody can keep in mind to reach their own target in skiing.
In this video I appreciated very much the cue about "lifting" the internal part of the body and then to "stay strong" (on the external)! With this simple, but very effective suggestion in mind, I managed to find again sensations that I'd lost for over 20 years (I will be 50 this year 😊 and I stopped sport skiing at about 28 and started again a couple of years ago 😊).
Thank you very much! ... and keep it up this way! 😊
And if you will come to ski in Italy, let me know! 😊
Bye, Massimiliano👋
Thank you Massimoliano. That is a very nice comment and I’m glad you have enjoyed the videos.
The two hemisphere instructor/ coach's have set the standard my entire 32 yr PSIA career.Keep pushing the envelope !
Hi Paul....
I really like your explanations. Also like the fact you are skiing On Volkl... I worked and have been part of Volkl Canada for 1972 to 1995.
When I taught selected people over the years we stressed the forward pressure into the ski and let the ski do the work.
Yes it was much harder then to carve...particularly on 210's but carve we did.
It was really fun in the bumps as we could run the arc of the bend of the ski... down from the tip into the tail and the ski would just explode as it came off the bump....
After some 65 years skiing, 22 - 23 is my 65th, I still carve and love to carve....albeit not as low with the hip as I would like to be but maybe i am asking an old battered body to do too much....
KEEP CARVING.... STACY HILL
Hi Stacy, thanks for the comment. Bumps on straight is still so much fun! I hope you're still out there shredding!
As a PSIA Level 3 I can say this is a great video. One thing he left out (sort of) of a great explantation is a slight retraction or deflection/rebound
of his skis as he completes his turn and move into the next turn. When he talks of softening his downhill leg this is what he is referring to. How active his retraction or deflection is depends on the situation and may in these turns be solely reactionary and not active at all. And it helps to ski 300 days a year. these turns and those of his buddy Riley are what all skiers not in the gates should aspire to.
Skiing doesn't get prettier than that!
Not in the gates👍🏻
I am one who totally agrees with what you are saying. Your description of your movements is clear and concise and confirms my understanding of what should be happening. A close viewing of the video also clarifies for me how quickly you can start shorting the inside leg if you wish to tighten up the arc. Thank you! Happy skiing, Bill.
Thanks Bill, All the best.
Thanks so much for sharing your insights into carving. Absolutely the clearest presentation of what you're doing as you make those awesome turns. Love the vector diagrams!
Thanks for your support London
Paul, That is Beautiful Skiing! Thanks for being willing to share!
David Beazer thanks for your comment.
Incredible skiing as always Paul. Excellent articulation of what one should be feeling. Keep up the good work and looking forward to skiing with you again.
Thanks Aesthetic Harmony
...very good! One of the best explanations! ...as you are right mentioned ...you can do it different but the most impotent thing for me is to feel the ski how he want to be driven ...and you have to trust him 100% on the begin of the turn. There are also slightly differences from ski to ski and you have to find the one who fits the most to your style.
Great breakdown and explanation of your technique.
James White thanks James. Have a great season
My god your form is absolutely stunning! I'm gonna 100% try to imitate you haha :P
Thank you Sim. Have a great season!
Exemplary skiing to say the least Paul! I have been sharing this video with my ski posse as the definitive best way to tip & rip out there. I see mention of arm position in comments below. As a former 'Highline Rat' who skied moguls from '66-76 at Vail one of the things that I addressed when I retired from bumps and became a Masters racer and now into a 'different sport' was unlearning an intentional bending of my arms at the elbows. I have found that (even though sometimes I have to remind myself) extending the arms slightly as you do in your video is much more conducive to good (and relaxed) turns...
This is Really Good!! A great insight into the correct Feel!!
Paul! Are there any dry land exercises you have worked on that you would recommend in helping creating this feel for actual skiing?
Paul L is an amazingly skilful skier! Inspirational.
Best video ever .
Thank you
Great explanation. I soften by first feeling the uphill edge of the inside ski to start bleeding the pressure off of the outside ski.Pinky side to big toe side on the ball of the foot.Learned this from my first mentor "Tom Long " when i joined RMSIA in 1978 at Sandia Peak NM.Ski design has been the real breakthrough and has allowed great athletes like yourself to demonstrate the perfect blending of the skills concept promoted by PSIA.Fantastic skiing young man !!
thanks, I like the focus points, ill b thinking on those through my carves today.
Very good tips! Easily & understandable
Great démonstration, clear and simple explanations, perfect!
Thanks for your support
thumbs up and comment even before I watch it keep it coming Paul!
Ben Yung Thanks for your support. Glad you like the video.
I am korean.I am yr fan.I have seen often your sking video.I hope for good video for future.
박상배 Thank you
Love it my mentor always said don't do a "HUK OVER...GO DOWN AND ACROSS"
Excellent. As always. Thank you very much for sharing.
Thanks Andre
Great video Paul! Thanks for the insights and replies. Would love to see a 'How To' video related to your style, in particular the movement and positioning of the arms and wrists in different types of turns. There are some great skiers out there, yet styles can differ. One element of style that is immediately noticeable is usually arm movements (height of hands, how far hands move outside/inside, pole planting etc.) The discussion of style and differences in arm movements were discussed a bit in some of your Japanese Tech comp related videos. For those that would like to emulate your style, it would be great to hear what your queues and internal feelings are as it relates to this.
Thanks for your comment. That's an interesting comment about arm position because I agree that it can impact the overall aesthetics of a skier almost more than some of the movements made by the body. My goal is maintain an arm position that requires minimal movement to pole plant and goal is for it to look relaxed (although this is a constant challenge). I have struggled with a very "Austrian" rigid arm position and am constantly trying to straighten my arms. A lot of the videos posted recently have been in preparation of competitions in Japan where they ski with very straight and wide arms. My internal focus is to keep my elbows from rising to high and my hands forward so that I can see them in my peripheral. I hope this helps and wish you all the best.
Great explanation and great graphics to go with it.... Love a good bum drag carve turn... YEEWWW
Great demo and explanation. Clear, concise and helpful!
Thank you 😊
I really appreciate these videos. You illustrate perfect technique and explain it well. I took the concept of toppling to the hill today and put it into practice. I was doing it sporadically before but wasn't sure if it was supposed to feel literally like 8 was about to topple but hearing you say it really reinforces it. Thank you
Really helpful breakdown and spectacular skiing
Very happy that it's helpful
Thanks !!!Paul Excellent! 👌🏼Greetings From Chile 🇨🇱 🎿
Very inspiring skiing, Paul! Thanks a lot. I really enjoy following you and Reily's skivids. Perhaps my comment has already been mentioned and replied too. If so apologies. Anyways - I cannot help, but noticing that you seem to have a sort of active lift of your inside ski at the initiation of the turn. It reminds me of the pedal transition turn, that was once part of my skiinstructor training in the Danish skiing association. I imagine that it helps you establish 100% weight and balance on the outside ski and given the extreme angulation you are able to exercise. But on the 'critical' side, is it not also a bit unnecessary or 'too active' considering the mantra of the current skiing paradigm as a matter of the most effective, necessary and minimalist movement? Perhaps a bit nerdy - I hope you can follow me. And as said, your skiing is extremely inspiring and the best to envision when practising.
@Paul Lorenz??
Quite useful and handy tips MATE!
Great tips
really nice flow and form. i like how you really finish the turn and control your speed. well filmed also we can see really well the movement.
Thanks for your support
Man, great website and great videos. Thanks a lot! :)
Thanks Dimitrije
The tip that hit home with me was lifting the inside hip. Not sure why, but it works better than trying to push the outside hip down. Also "shortening the inside leg" was not really effective until I consciously pulled up the hip. Even on 26 meter skis, I'm tightening the arc and skis are running quieter. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. That's great to hear that this has helped feel a little more performance in your skiing!
I love your carving bro.
Thank you 😊 hope to ski together one day
@@paullorenz6389 I hope so too… I’m improving my carve to carve like you!!!
Beautiful fluid style. Nice explanation of your technique. Well done.
Pretty sweet !
Looks so amazing
Thank you!!! Really good instruction!
Thank you
Exceptionally good explanations Paul!
Thanks Pat
Great slow motion and explanations!
vadim videos Thank you
理想的なバランスの滑りですね。お手本にします。beautiful performance!.
Thank you
Paul - can you, base on this excelent video, make a part2 , and focus on hips and shoulders, draw some lines and arrows of directions. Legs are something that all instructors talk about, but I am confused about contr-rotation of hips in the turn. How deep is that movement? it looks like your siting on the slope little bit behind the upper shoe. Where do you try to keep the center of your shoulders? Towards the turn direction or down the slope? How do you keep your legs close to each other (my mistake is that I am riding to wide and dont know how to keep them closer)... many many questions, and the answear is usally to focus on the outside ski ;) haha
Hi Artur, thanks for the comment. I will do my best to create something to answer your questions. It’s a little difficult to ski and video with the Covid restrictions at the moment. But I’ll add it to my list. In the meantime check out some of the videos on the Projected Productions ALL ACESS VIDEO PASS where you can find content on exactly that point. www.projectedproductions.com/allaccessvideopass
1:57 is the key move. Thanks for mentioning it. Amazing how many instructors never talk about this.
Sometimes I actively try to create the maximum angle possible just as a drill. You'll feel a significant stretch in your inside hip. However, I've definitely managed to strain muscles trying to overexaggerate that separation before.
Hey can you explain the key move or tell me if I got this correctly? If I got this right you pull your inner leg towards your chest?
@@simonhauer3107 I imagine putting my inside shoulder over my inside ski tip--this creates rotational separation and will feel awkward when you exaggerate it. At the same time, you can try to keep your shoulders level while feeling the vertical separation at your inside hip joint. I'm sure someone can describe it better than me, but it's a drill method where you really need external feedback.
@@simonhauer3107 Look at the still shot at 2:04. See how close his knee is to his chest? I somewhat purposely lift my inside knee towards my chest as I allow my body to collapse down and inside as I extend the outside leg. This not only gives high edge angles, it also allows good weight shift to the outside ski. I know "real" instructors would not agree with my description. Most of them suck anyway.
@@rustyme1122 Thank you for your answer. The reason why I need the inside knee close to my chest is that otherwise my inner ski boot would touch the snow and I lay down? Did I get this right? And regarding the angles there is a difference between the inside and the outside?
Paul very nice explanation of "cross under" really well done. In your next one unless have already done it you might want to add projection into the next turn. I understand why you didn't in this one, there is only so much time and too much all at one time can confuse some people. Great job! But I would expect no less from a National D Team Member😊
Hi Mike, Thanks for the comment and nice words. I put this video up as an insight into my focuses in skiing. I personally don't focus on projection into the turn as much as others might. Some people do and that's really good but not so much a focus of mine. Thanks again.
Me gusta amigo!, Muy bien. Muy buenas curvas.
Paul great job both demonstrating and explaining your cues/mechanics. May I suggest that it would be more accurate to say at 1:12 that MOMENTUM (brief linear momentum, tangent to the arc from the release of edge angle) will carry the new ski 'out' rather than pressure. Keep up the good work. Next steps... are there external cues that are helpful? Is there a way to engage the step reflex?
Agree
Paul! - Can you recommend (or do a video) on at-home exercises to improve carving abilities? THX!
Hi Bryan, Reilly McGlashan has made an excellent video of dry land training that will help your skiing. You can find it in the projected library: www.projectedproductions.com
1-legged DEEP knee bends
Great Paul, fantástic carver!👍
1:59 wow very importannt point~good~~!
Well done 👍🏻
Hi Paul
You & Reilly really have it dialed in! Very few people really understand the relaxation or "softening" motion that is the key to efficient transitions without all the up that you see in PSIA trained skiers.
Thanks Richard we are both doing our best to train as much as possible
Interesting to watch and compare to what some of the NZSIA and PSIA clinicians I've trained with preach. Love your style mate, powerful 🤘.
Thanks Dory
Seriously god skiing man!
Thank you
I know you meant "good" skiing, but really, what's the difference here.
Great video, keep ut the godd work!
Sorry for my misspell, schould be good not godd.
You got it right the first time, man. It is indeed God's work... :)
Thanks Tobbe
You would love alpine snowboards, you can probably do very well on it very soon :)
He can snowboard, I have seen it. Never seen him on a raceboard .
How much does speed play a roll in making those beautiful turns? How fast would you estimate your speed?
Hi Bob, It's difficult to say. It's like asking how fast you have to go to tip a bike of a certain amount when riding. Repetition in skiing builds a touch/feel that allows you to continue moving in if the forces allow it. The more you do the more you can estimate the speed before you set off. It is very difficult to estimate the actual speed though - sorry.
Super useful. Will try this tomorrow at 33N 35E
As always, great explanations and insights. Thanks for the great work. It would be great if you could state, which kind of ski you're using for every respective video.
Thanks for the comment Alban. I'll be sure to post ski specs in the future. In this video i'm skiing on the Volkl Racetiger WC SL with plate. Thanks again
If only we lived in a world of perfectly groomed runs!
Paul, crazy good carving! Thanks for the vid! One q concerning the transition phase: Do you actively lift the new inside ski? In many turns one can see at least the tip clearly in the air. Could you comment a bit on this habit/technique?
Thanks for the comment. When you push the outside foot/ski forward through the arc to maintain balance against the snow it can become difficult to release/roll/change edge if the timing of the foot forward or amount is incorrect. As such the tip/whole ski may come off the snow during transition or end of previous turn. This also assists with the toppling/cross over into the new turn. If everything is timed well then it shouldn't happen :( I just need to keep practising. You might often see this in SL racers to if a transition needs to happen quickly or the skier outside foot has ended to far in front of them to accurately roll the foot and knee to release the previous turn. Anyway I hope this helps.
@@paullorenz6389 Thanks Paul, this surely helps! It is also very encouraging to read that even you still have to practice hard & that you have some "weak" spots. Btw, can't wait to order & watch LEGACY, hopefully it will be released soon! Greetings from Austria!
SansibarRacing thank you, Legacy will come out on the 15Dec. We are moving out entire projected library to the website (www.projectedproductions.com) so for a small monthly subscription you can get an all access pass to all projected vids! Can’t wait and thanks for your support :)
Amazing!
Heng Guo Thank you
Great skiing and helpful insight into what you are doing with your body to achieve these turns. I wonder how your approach or turns would change on really hard snow?
Todd Lougee thanks Todd, I ski on hard snow and ice in Australia most of the time.
Great!!!!
Dear Paul,
great skill and great video Could you please also tell what kind of skis you are using in your videos. Type and Radius would be fine and what kind of skis you recommend for the "normal mortals" who challenge themselves to come close to you.... :-)
All the best to you
Tom from Germany
Hi Tom, I mainly ski on the FIS WC Racetiger SL 165cm, or the FIS construction Racetiger GS 183cm r25. For carving, the retail version version of either ski is a good choice for recreational skiers. SL if you’re going slower or GS if you’re going faster. I have recently posted a video about the differences between the FIS model and retail version of the SL ski. The Deacon is also a very good ski for carving and the width offers a little more versatility. Thanks for your comment.
My biggest problem with adopting this technique is the center of mass shifting fat too backwards in my case , I just can't bend my legs any further forward and I still feel like I'm not above the middle of the skis
Just bend forward with your torso :)
You need: speed, proper slope angle, leg power, traction, well balanced and optimized equipment.
Asome..txs
The one thing I would add is maintaining upper and lower body separation. Head shoulders and arms always downhill..
Great skiing! transferring balance from foot to foot is so smooth and uninterrupted. Question - are you extending outer leg through pressure (action) or through retraction of inner leg (reaction)?
I am trying to use the pressure from the previous turn to send my skis out to the side while the CoM crosses the skis to create leg length. I don't ever feel pushing of the outer leg.
@@paullorenz6389 Thanks Paul - that confirms my thoughts . In England, some instructors tend to be obsessed with pushing on / pressuring the outer ski to turn it - the more the better. I have never believed that this is correct. Thanks again for the reply. Enjoy your lovely snow - best wishes from England where we ski on 160m plastic slopes!
Epic carving video! What kind of turn radius do you need for these curves to be able to hang this much? Is a smaller turn radius better?
Thanks for your message. Ski Radius depends depends on the speed, gradient and snow quality. If you are going slower, on flatter terrain or the snow is soft then a smaller radius ski is easier for carving. If you are going fast or it's steeper then a longer radius will be more stable. This video was shot on a steeper black groomed run with softer snow. In this video I am skiing on a slalom ski, and the same can be done on GS if the conditions and speed are conducive.
The ski he's on is a 2019 Volkl Racetiger 13m Radius with a raceplate - it is either a 165 or a 170. The ski has a particularly stiff tail which can & will create a lot of rebound coming out of a compression so back seat driving with this ski will launch you forward if you aren't careful. If you watch the video you can actually see the rear of the ski getting air in a few of his transitions. It's an amazing ski but really only when you are 100% committed to ski aggressively with good technique - then it is like a racecar that comes alive with speed. I own a pair in the 170 length and I only use them when I'm completely committed to skiing almost in the way you are seeing in this video - otherwise there are way more fun skis, that are almost as powerful, but 10x more playful and fun - such as an Enforcer 88. I've watched this video 30 times and play it back in my mind in order to improve my technique.
@@wallstreetoneil Thx a lot guys!
? Unclear at 2:00. The lifting and pullling with arrows. What forces are involved in the lifting or pulling? I would think the "push" from the cintripetal forces would cause the inside leg in flexion to absorb what little pressure there is as the vast majority of pressure is in the outside ski. What is causing the lifting and pulling shown by the arrows?
While I'm not the OP, I was practicing his advice over the weekend and I think that the lifting and pulling is almost entirely due to the skier's engagement. The "topple" helps you get both skis over to the opposite side in one even movement. Right before you "extend" that outside leg, there's a slightly more even distribution of force over both new edges. That initial force is what helps you bring the new inner leg closer to your chest, similar movement to picking up your leg when standing up-right. It feels like as you pull that inner leg upwards and inwards, towards your chest, that your outside leg wants to push away from you slightly. These movements feel almost natural, as otherwise you'll feel like you're about to fall over. Practice getting comfortable with the topple and I think it'll start to fall into place.
@@sternalneogator So if I got you right, you pull the inner leg towards your chest?
Thanks your vid, Paul! Quick question: what kind of jacket and trousers did you use in this video? 🤔⛷I like its colour.
László Hargitai thanks for your comment. This suit is made by Onyone Japan. They make great technical gear:
en.onyone.co.jp
I’m not sure if this mode is available yet for sale but it will be coming soon. You can email them through the contact details on the website to find out more.
Sweet!!!
If you were to give a percentage, Can you give an idea of how much pressure is on your uphill ski edge compared to the downhill ski edge during the “meat” of the turn?
Jeffery Rowe 100% outs ski, 0% inside. It’s not so much about weight. I try to align my CoM and outside foot against centripetal force that pushes from the snow. It is about resisting this force with my outside leg. Some talk about this as balance. I don’t think about my “weight” so much.
@@paullorenz6389 Maybe my question is stupid but if pressure on the inside ski is 0% how does it bend and stay parallel to the outside ski? Doesn't it need a similar pressure in order to carve equally as the outside ski?
@@vladanos While there needs to be some load or pressure on a ski to bend it, it is the edge angle that allows the ski to increase bend. You can bend a ski by holding and pushing on it with your hand as you do in the shop (which is not a lot of force). As such the weight of your relaxed inside leg is enough for it to bend (providing it is edged). There are times you may see top skiers with outside ski bent and inside ski not bent. Briefly at times under extremely load I brace solely against the outside with all my balance and the skis and not bent equally. you will see this if you freeze frame world cup skiers also. Anyway this is a tricky discussion to have on youtube. All the best and good luck with your skiing :)
Paul Lorenz Thanks for the explanation :)
Paul - excellent carving technique! I am hoping you can help me with a ski question. I love carving on my 10 yr old Atomic Metron 10’s (164 cm with 12.5m radius, 125-74-109) but I want something a little more stable at higher speeds. I’m 6’2” tall so was thinking the Nordica Enforcer 88 in 179 cm would be good. They are 121-88-109 and 15.5m @ 172 cm. Really appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks!
Hi Daniel, yes the extra 8cm in length and longer radius will provide more stability at speed. I haven’t seen you ski but you could even go longer (180cm and r. 17/18m) particularly given you height. Hope this helps.
@@paullorenz6389 Thanks Paul! I’ll plan to get them in 179 cm length.
On the blue runs by the time my hip gets close to the snow, my skis are pointing back up the hill. I find it easier to get the hip closer to hill and continue to the next turn on the single black runs. I guess the question is, does steepness play a part in getting the hip close or touching the snow?
Thanks for the comment. Hips on the snow is a result of increasing the edge. It's not my goal but is a result if I'm going fast enough and the slope is steep enough to warrant this amount of edge. Blue runs are probably not steep enough. I hope that helps answer your question?
Thanks Paul, yes that answers my question
Great video. One question. Do you get your weight forward are pull your feet back at any point in the turn? If so when and how? Cheers.
Hi Simon, I do want to pressure the tip of the skis during the initiation of the turn (after the skis find the new edges and before the fall line). I focus more on the angle that I cross my skis. If I cross too directly down the hill I fall inside and lose outside ski pressure. If I cross too much forward along the length of the ski it forces me to rise into a taller position due to an opening in the knee joint to move forward. As such my goal is to cross the skis (change edges) in a compact position so that I have greater mobility with the lower parts of my leg, and then as the legs extend out to the side and I move in at the top of the turn, I try to extend with movement on to the tip before the fall line. As the pressure builds I try to move my feet forward to find the centre of the ski and balance against the pressure that pushes back from the snow. I hope this helps answer your question.
Hi Paul, can you recommend me some skis? I am 176 cm tall and I have medium experience. I am interested in speed and control.
Great video, great insights. Would you share what base and side angles are you running on your skis?
Hi Denes, Thanks for your message. I am running 87degrees on the side and 0.5degrees on the base.
@@paullorenz6389 Yes you stated that on Ice you use these angles. Do these angles also work for non icy conditions?
What length ski are you using in most of your carving videos
I love your vids and i have a question.
How do you maintain pressure on outside ski while your hips are on the snow (at the fall-line)? I am a skiracer trying to carve like this (not in a course but in freeruns) but i have two problems: my hips rarely hits the snow and when they do, i usually loose pressure on outside ski. How do i fix these problems?
Its very difficult to say without watching you ski. The inside ski needs to be relaxed and softened out of the way. If its in the wrong place one ends up relying on it. also your hip position could be a factor. any rotation of the hip cause movement to the inside. Its hard to say without skiing with you. Hip on the snow is only brief, its not a position you should hold for long otherwise you fall in. It's a position that results from edging the skis as much as possible before transitioning.
@@paullorenz6389 A million thanks for your reply. You are my greatest hero, one of them anyway. I would be thrilled if you commented on my skiing.This is me one year ago. I have come a long way since then and you can check out more videos like that on me skiing if you have time.
ruclips.net/video/YdHnGNzr2uw/видео.html
ruclips.net/user/Triggerboy62videos
@@Chris-jr8ci Hello Chris I'm a subscriber to triggerboy channel! It's nice to see you here. I think one of Paul's earlier comment also explains about hip getting lower. Low hip is the result of high edge angle, which is coming from high speed and steep terrain. So sometimes if you focus on lowering hip, you may lose outside ski pressure if you are fast or on steeper runs. This kind of happened to me as well in my earlier years. Thanks!
@@byungjunlee9793 Nice having someone recognizing me! Yea i see... I need to work on it, thanks for your reply!
@@Chris-jr8ci Triggerboy has a fan club!! Your dad is a boss!
Hi Paul, I see that you're using Racetiger SL. Is it just SL or SL Pro. Which binding do you have? rMotion 12, 16, 18? Do you have a race plate? What's the length of your skis? 165cm? Any detailed feedback on them? I cant find a demo pair on these given they're pretty expensive? I'm looking to buy a pair, just 165cm SL with 12 binding and they are quite expensive like $900 so I would really appreciate your feedback. I'm not into a race competition but love short turns/quick carving on groomed trails. Do you think these are overkill for a pro intermediate or beginner advanced skier? Thank you for your response in advance.
Thanks for the comment. I use the FIS WC SL which has the WC plate in 165cm. Currently using the rMotion 16. I have also skied the regular race tiger SL without the plate quite a lot. I think for recreational skiing this is the idea ski as it is more versatile with terrain and a little more forgiving. The Pro (with plate) adds an element of stiffness and raises you up giving quicker access to the edges. As such it requires more precision and makes it a little more tricky off piste. The FIS WC is unforgiving and stiff. However on the groomed it performs above and beyond for expert level skiers. So I guess you need to think firstly what level skier are you and also what you really want to use this ski for? That said, I spend a lot of time on the Regular SL without plate and it performs well. I hope that helps
@@paullorenz6389 Hi again Paul, thank you so much for your detailed response. Yea, I'm shooting for just recreational skiing. feel like the Pro or WC and race plate are way too much/stiff for me. I only have all mountain skis right now, Atomic Vantage X 80CTI at 173cm to be specific and I'm looking to up my game on short/quick turn carving. Another alternative I'm looking at is 2018/19 Volkl Deacon 74. Have you skied on them? (please let me know your thought if you have) From my research, seems like they are great at carving and initiating short turn as well. I'm just torn between the two. I dont mind buying skis that are a bit over my level because I dont want to outgrow them in just a few runs. I'm 5'10/11 and 165lbs and considered myself between advanced and expert. Do you think regular Racetiger SL 165 cm is worth a shot? or maybe the new Deacon 74. The problem is I cant find any demo shops that carry these two in the east coast USA. But still, I dont think I could go wrong buying either one blindly. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks so much again.
@@ppmaster8 Yes they are a great ski but if you are after a short turn ski then the SL is more suitable. The Deacon is great for carving groomers and the additional width makes it more versatile off piste. However for short turns I would definitely go the SL.
Paul Lorenz thanks again for your help!
@@paullorenz6389 WC PCI
Great style, Paul!!! Great... energy saving and balanced... which Volkl model are you on?
As far as I can tell it's the Racetiger SL
Yeah, thanks... checked the VOLKL line yesterday)), but used to see longer skis Paul used before))
Thanks for your comment. In this video I'm skiing the Volkl FIS SL in 165cm.
Paul Lorenz thank you for reply, Paul... I got it! Great style!!! Real inspiration!!!
What length and radius and brand skis are you using paul
#Paul when you soften your outside leg it retracts and then you extend the other leg. Is this retraction and extension the same as you would do in the bumps/
Merci
Paul, what is the ramp angle and the forward lean set on the boot and what is your dolsiflex? (ankle flex angle)?
Hey Robert, Not sure of the exact angles. The WC boot comes with 2 different boot boards. I am using the one with ramp angle not the flat one. I have also added an 8mm rubber wedges on top of the heel of each boot board. I have kept the spoiler in the rear of the liner. I have also canted the upper use angled base plates. 1.5 degrees on the left and 2 degrees on the right.
@@paullorenz6389 Thank you for the info - I asked the questions because of the huge ankle/knee angles combined with huge ski edge angles that you develop-great video-super skiing.
@@paullorenz6389 8mm higher in your heels??
Look at that hip at 2:04, that takes flexibility not just technique
Hello, May I ask some questions. Do I need to squeeze my inside leg to short the distance with outside while carving. I found my leg distance quite far when I carve. My legs are parallel and no A shape. Should I put my legs more tight together while doing short carve turns?
Thanks for the comment. The legs should be hip width at all times so that the legs are aligned and you are able to tip as both legs evenly as needed. The legs shouldn't get wider as you increase the edge but as the inside leg gets shorter, the distance between the skis will increase. Check out this article that may explain this more clearly:
www.paullorenzclinics.com/post/stance-how-wide-is-too-wide
なまら！！！！！
The right legged turn is much better than the left....
Overall, too much edge angle relative to speed. Yes, you read that correctly. I see this all over the internet from so called expert skiers and it is just wrong, at least if you want to really go fast (racing, etc) I call it being an "edge angle hero". Proper skiing is about much more than just edge angles. Edge angle should be matched to load/speed. When you focus on edge angle too much, you start creating side angulation early in the turn to balance. It is sort of like the old "bannana" position from the 70s/80s. What exactly is wrong with that? It is a WEAK position. You NEVER see elite skiers with huge side break early in the turn. It is also why you should avoid doing the Schlopy Drill.
There are two major elements to this game.
#1 - CREATE HIGH ANGLES TO CREATE HIGH TURNING FORCES. Use edge angles to create more turning force matched to a given speed. Too much edge angle for a given speed, is functionally the SAME as too little speed for a given edge angle. When you are going too slow for a given edge angle, what will happen to your body? You will FALL INWARDS. How do you counteract this? You break sideways at the waist and shift your CoM to the outside of the turn. What do we see in the skiing of all the edge angle heroes? Massive side break at or even before the fall line. Reilly is probably the worst. They are doing this because they are going TOO SLOW for their edge angle. Frankly most people are not physically capable of handling the loads created by a 70 degree edge angle at any sort of real speed. So some very good skiers go far too slow for their edge angles, then compensate with side break, all while telling themselves how great they are. You will see 45 degrees...even more...angle between the torso and the leg/force line which is square to the top sheets. Now...go look at a WC skier. That angle is more like 10-20 degrees. On the very best greased turns it is close to zero? Why is this?
#2 - THE BODY MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE LOADS CREATED. If you are going fast, and you create large edge angles, what are the loads on your body going to be? MASSIVE. We are talking 3-4 G's!. THAT is performance skiing. Cranking 70 degree edge angles while you are going 20 mph...with a massive side break at the waist ...sorry...that is just a joke. True elite skiing requires carrying massive loads. To do that, you have to "get stacked" That means little side break early to mid turn. Your torso is close to inline with the leg-line/force line. Narrow horizontal stance with larger vertical ski separation. The vertical separation and overall body inclination gives you edge angles, plus a nearly straight DH leg...and very short inside leg. Drive the outside boot back, and scissor forward with the inside ski. All these work together to enable your body to handle massive loads on one ski. Modern elite skiing is the creation of maximum edge angles at maximum speed while doing a one legged cheater squat with 300# on your back.
In summary, there are two aspects to this game. Use angles and speed to create load but also put your body in a position to handle massive loads. If you are cranking high edge angles...then going slow, and using side break to compensate, you are frankly a poser. Take the time to watch WC level skiers. Look at their upper body relative to their leg line axis. They are more aligned. This is a STRONG position. THIS is elite skiing. Large side kink or angle at the waist between the torso and legs early in the turn is a sign that the skier is going too slow relative to the edge angles created. This is a bad habit. Too many people are so fixated on edge angles and they are screwing up their skiing to achieve those angles. We use a stopwatch to just the best skiing, not a protractor.
No one cares about ski racing except for two weeks every four years. What skiers want is a flow that is beautiful to watch and fun to do.
And to anticipate the obvious rebuttal: the best freeskiers have mogul and park backgrounds, not alpine racing backgrounds. So no, I don't think people who aspire to great skiing have to master alpine racing fundamentals.
I was wondering if you could add a video of yourself carving some turns so we can see how it's done?
Bro just commented hisopposing thoughts. Don't feel attacked. I think it was good to read
@@robertwood5942 touche...as soon as I recover from tearing my ACL. Again.
@@shooter7a You're spot on. Any WC skier stacks over their skis with skeletal alignment and any "kink" or bending of the spine can lead to serious back injuries. What makes it look like they are a "banana" to some people I think is the fact that their pelvic bone is actually tilted to keep their inside ski on edge. I've heard race coaches teach that the best way to get the skis on edge (after initial ankle tipping and unweighting) is to shorten the inside leg. They are also spot on, because in order to shorten the inside leg enough to eventually reach high edge angles, the hip has to almost level with the snow in order for the inside leg to shorten where they want it to be. The Mikaela Shiffrin "hip hike" video demonstrates this. She only hikes her hip enough for the speed she is at. If she hikes too far or not enough for the turn, obviously would loose balance.
Really dnow, you have that filling, or mbe you not mentioned it. But really important thing for active edge skiing(adn carving) is fore back ballance or precisely foot ballance (toy/heel). And additional leg extesion at the end of the arc is a part of it. Gluck
Thanks! Great video! You RIP!
Thanks Brendan
Nice vid! What kind of skis are you using in the video?
Those look like 2018 Volkl Racetiger Sls. Check out the Reilly McGlashen 2019 Racetiger Sl demo RUclips vid. ruclips.net/video/vOKUkUWFmxk/видео.html
Hi Tobias, In this video I'm on the 2018 Volkl FIS Racetiger SL skis.
Hello paul i am studying English to work at Australia or nz as a ski instructor.
Could i ask one thing??
Hello, Yes feel free to ask?
I want to share my thinking about high edge angle. And i want to know how do you think about it.
I think, High edge angle that isn't suited with slope isn't useful for transition performance and speed.
How do you think??
What do you mean by "softening the outside leg"? (at time 0:53)
transferring your weight from the outside leg to the new "outside" leg, which is the uphill leg, slowly to engage to a new turn. Thats what i thought
Softening meaning not staying strong/long. You can see at 0:53 the left leg shortening/flexing/softening through completion and not staying rigid and long.