Hi Richard, along with all the good advice you have been given regarding servicing your 0-4-0 loco, don't forget to put a drop of super fine oil on the bearing at each end of the motor. The motors in these locos are middle to lower end budget motors and can quickly freeze up if it gets any resistance i.e. dry bearings. I was given a similar loco that exhibited the same stop/start issues as yours, cleaning the wheels, pickups backs of the wheels and back to back check helped a little but a single drop of fine oil (such as sewing machine oil) to the motor bearing and it took off like a startled gazelle. If you are going to use an abrasive paper to remove the build up of corrosion on the old rails use a fine wet/dry paper about 1200 grit or finer and do it in the sink under running water. the water will wash away any of the crud. Once the track/points are dry using a small piece of hardboard as Simon Davis advised will polish up your track to provide good running until you get the fund to upgrade.
Hi Dave! Thanks for the feedback and comments! Since posting this video, I've had a lot of really positive feedback with regards to servicing the loco and cleaning the track... I will be revisiting both of these in a future video when I am at that stage! My plan is to replace any older track with new once the budget (and the missus) allows! Haha 🤣😂
Check your track joiners are a tight fit, loose joiners can cause voltage drop out on the track due to bad connection. You could also check that the wheel pickups on the loco are clean and not bent out of shape. Good luck.
Hi Richard, I would say that with the shunter the wheels are suppose to move like that to get around sharp corners, The loco will need a service, I would start by cleaning the pickups (the metal contacts touching the back of the wheels, also clean the back of the wheels and you may find that not all the pickups are connecting properly to the wheels. To do this you will need to take the loco apart so watch some videos on servicing locos first before you have ago, It's quite nerving when you do your first one but rewarding in the end.
Thanks for clarifying the movement in the wheels are supposed to be there. I have been looking at giving it a service, watching RUclips videos on how to do it... I think I know the theory, will be giving the loco a service soon. Not had the chance yet, but will film how I get on in a future video!
Be careful with the older Hornby steel track, once it starts to rust its pretty much a lost cause. Any sort of abrasive such as track rubbers and fine grit sand paper for a cleaner will eventually make matters worse as you're cutting through the protective layer of the rail which prevents it from rusting, especially in an outside environment like a shed or garage based layout. It'll work for now, but I'd make replacing those steel rail bits a priority for replacement to help the reliability of your layout. Even with nickel silver rail the micro scratches from sandpaper and track rubbers really do speed up dirt accumulation and it turns into a vicious cycle of needing to always clean the track. I nearly always now use a bit of hardboard, the rough side, as its softer than the track material and can't cause scratches. I've had the clubs exhibition layout up and running in places as inhospitable as the engine house on the Severn Valley Railway, where the naturally damp air was causing other layouts to need to clean the track every few hours! I cleaned ours twice in two days by comparison. For a controller, I'd thoroughly recommend either a Gaugemaster Combi (for single track, or two of them for both of your lines) or a Gaugemaster model D (for twin track). The H&M controller, while very good indeed, isn't so friendly to modern coreless motors. So to future proof your layout it might be better to invest in a Gaugemaster, especially for the lifetime guarantee!
Hi Simon, thanks for the comments! My long term plan is to replace all of the track with Peco track, including points, crossovers etc. I am currently only using the older stuff because I have it available... I think not having the new track is one of the reasons I am delaying my own progress really... It is the same as replacing my controller... Will most likely be either Duette or Guagemaster... But progress will happen (funds and missus allowing!) Eventually! Haha!
I watched this video on how to clean your track and it is very insightful. ruclips.net/video/lBYxjcTWCB0/видео.html He goes into a lot of detail about how traditional cleaning rubbers leave micro abrasions in the surface of the track, causing "gunk" to collect, and in turn needing more cleaning. His solution is very smart and I think you should both check it out.
@@Deuce_and_a_half Hi Robin! Thank you for your comment and suggestion! I will check it out! Am still looking into the future cleaning methods I will be using for once the track is laid! 👍😀
Make sure the backs of the wheels are clean. With the pickups, make sure they contact the back of the wheels when they are pushed over to the extreme. Now, take your wheels off and make sure the pickups are clean. Check the back to backs of the wheels and put them back into the loco. Being careful to get the pickups behind the wheels. Job done.😊
Hi, the first thing I would probably check on the loco is the wheel spacing with a back to back gauge before you try anything else. You'r e right about the old school controllers, they seem to have been built a lot more sturdy that modern ones. John
Hi John, thanks for the comment! The width of the wheels appear to be correct, as they fit snugly on the track... It's just that when going round corners (especially slowly), they seem to lose contact with the tracks because they are loose... I guess they are supposed to have some play in them, or are they supposed to be fixed? Richard.
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway G'day Richard, I run N Gauge and the locos I have do have some sideways play in the wheels and run without issues. If the wheel spacing is ok then it looks like that loco may need some surgery! If you can get hold of a back to back gauge it will be worth checking, I had an issue with a loco where it kept stopping over certain turnouts and it was the wheel gauge being slightly off.Hopefully someone out there might see this video who has had a similar problem to yours. John
Thanks for the help! I've had a lot of people confirming there should be a little play in the wheels, and that I need to give it a service... I haven't had a chance to do it so far, but will be servicing it in a future video!
You might consider making a track cleaning wagon. It's just something that you can drag behind a loco with a square of hardboard between the axles, free-floating and skating over it, rough side down. Try not to use chemicals because of the residue. I just got a job lot of rolling stock including a lot of those tankers but the later ones have ladders going to the inspection platform on top. Once you've seen that, the old ones look incomplete and silly. I'm going to have to retrofit ladders onto them!
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway I switched from a Duette to a Gaugemaster with simulation. I thought the Duette was good but the Gaugemaster is superb - well worth the investment. And remember they come with a lifetime guarantee so buying second hand isn't a risk.
@@davidclough7346 A lot of people have recommended guagemaster controllers to me... I didn't realise that the lifetime guarantee would apply for 2nd hand controllers?
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Yes. So long as they still have the parts available - and given the current models all appear to be identical I'm not aware it's an issue. I had one fixed last week as 1 of the circuits was deaf when I bought it.
Hi Richard As a follow up on using the dremel on the end of your track just give each side of the track a touch to make a slight taper inside and out side and it let's the fishplates slide on to the rail with no bother try it an see
Further to the other advice given, about cleaning, that particular chassis is notorious for being slightly twisted as the equipment that produces the main extrusion is quite old. Put the loco on a straight and flat surface and see if all four wheels touch. It can be almost microscopic but if it's there, the loco will never run well. I had a diesel shunter which was rubbish until I found another loco, with a broken body and did a swap - problem solved. I can also recommend Gaugemaster DC controllers, although I've gone DCC now to get the sound effects.
Hi Paul, thanks for the feedback! I have seen a few comments about the little 040 loco being of... Lower quality... But think you are the first one who mentioned it being twisted! I will check it when I come to revisit the loco in a future video, and will check out if it's twisted! Thanks! 😀👍
Steer clear of the Propanol when cleaning track - it's an electircal insulator and leaves a thin, insulating residue on the rails when it dries which doesn't help conductivity. If you must use a solvent to clean the surface of your track, use WD40 which is a water displacer specially designed for electrical equipment and conducts. The best solution of all is to use a small block of balsa wood in the same way you'd use a track rubber which will remove the tarnishing (it requires some elbow grease) without scratching the rail surface. Good luck with your build and enjoy!
Hi Paul! Thanks for the comments and feedback! I have heard conflicting information about using WD40 / ISO on track to clean it... Some say use one whilst some say avoid it and use the other... I guess it really comes down to personal preference really? However, I HAVE heard a lot of people suggest using the wood technique, so think I'll adopt this as my regular go-to method going forwards! (Once I actually get the layout sorted! 🤣😂) 👍👍
I saw a video recently talking about different methods and the one the guy used was wood. Sure enough I took a scrap piece of 2 X 4 with a nice smooth side and ran it along track that was giving me issues (N Scale) and it actually picked up dust and grime. The engine giving me issues was working fine after that. I feel like my N scale trains are more prone to failure from dirt than my HO trains, since they are lighter and wont have as good contact on the rails due to the lessened pressure between the rails and the wheels. My trains and track are all still fairly new, since I started building last winter, but dust has been a big issue. Sanding down on the rails will make them work again temporarily, but you will need to take care of them a lot after that or they'll corrode and rust.
Hi Dana! Thanks for the feedback! I have had a lot of feedback about cleaning the rails, what to do and what not to do. I realise that sanding the rails was probably NOT the best idea... All is not lost though, as it was an older piece of track that I got as part of a bulk buy, so will eventually replace anyway... However, I have tried using the wipe wood on the rails" technique off camera which seems to be working... I will be posting a follow up video once I am further down the line (pun intended!) with my track!
Ive had lots of unavoidable delays with my layout build, but I'm looking forward to the simple pleasure of a train, or just a loco, running around the circuit. You've already had lots of good advice, but my two pence worth:- Track cleaning can be a challenge. W&D or Sandpaper can leave micro scratches attracting more dirt. A piece of hardboard rubbed over the rails, maybe with a squirt of IPA is a good place to start. If not using DCC or Portescap motors then an electronic cleaner can be really good too. If the track/baseboard is completely level put a coating of pencil onto the rails (graphite) cuts down on cleaning etc. Hornby track (rails) which is Bright Zinc Plate (BZP) iirc, will deteriorate, you're much better going for Nickel Silver rail - but I understand your reasoning. For reliability bonding the points with hard wiring helps no end, also helps if you're planning on going DCC too, but bonding the running rails and switching frog polarity (instead of relying on the switch rails for contact) is best practice for DC or DCC. Also check all aspects of a point before laying it, even when new, there are times when light fettling is required. I've a Duette, circa 1976, I still use it now, I knocked it over circa 1977 and it's got a slightly twisted body/chassis, but it works well even now, with 7mm stock. I've also got a twenty year old Guagemaster and that's a great controller too - a bit more finesse than the Duette and a bit kinder on modern motors especially N gauge etc. The little 0-4-0 (Smokey Joe style chassis)? Check the back to back measurements, give it a light service, you might need to fit a later Hornby motor (depending on its age) - they run better on DCC too though.
Hi there! Tha k you for the comments and feedback! Its much appreciated! Since this video, the layout has changed and moved and been disconnected somewhat, but once I have the chance to give the locos a good run again, I am planning on giving it a good service... Also, I will be reviewing cleaning techniques as well, as I have had many comments about what I did and why using abrasives are not the best option. Also, thanks for the controller recommendation! A better controller is definitely a future purchase for the layout! Keep watching and enjoy your model railway! 🚉🚂🛤😃😊
Hi, thanks for sharing your modelling adventure. Just reflecting on your track plan, if you're able to add a short straight after the curve, it might offer you smoother transition. Well done on getting to the trains "running" stage. It's inspirational to see. Keep going!
Thanks for your comment! Am glad my layout is inspiration for people!😀 Thanks for the suggestion... Where about are you suggesting I add a straight? 🤔😊
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Yip - just to ease the transition and make for a lower derailment risk as both those corner points will be expected to handle a lot of traffic. A short straight might help.
Hi Richard. Great video, you may want to use wire wool on the track to clean it then a wipe down after. The Basic Hornby controller is terrible and the dial setting’s are way off compared to other controllers out there Also serviced locos run better may be a motor issue or pick ups need a bit of tlc Combine all 3 methods you should see some great results Kind Regards Jack
Hi Jack! Thanks for the feedback! I definitely want to replace the Hornby controller, and once the track is back down I will give it and the loco a service! 🚂⚒👍
Hi Richard, I have an E-link DCC controller by Hornby and have had no problems with it. Nice video keep going, Have a look at my layout Smallton you might get dome ideas and I tend to do how to videos from time to time
Hi Jetmec! Thanks for your comments and suggestions! The layout is DC, not DCC (at the moment at least), so have literally no experience of DCC controllers, so couldn't comment- other than to say I'm glad to hear you're happy with it! 😂 I will check out your videos soon! 👍👍
hi brilliant video i am currently re build my lay out after a house move . but no i have a door into the room how and which is the best way to hinge and get a connection many thanks David
Hi David! Nice on the layout room! If you are making a folding lift up section, ideally you want the tracks to lift up and away... To do this, put the hinge slightly above the tracks or it will try and fold in on itself... Let me know how it goes! 👍👍🚂🛤⚒
All model locos eventually require that the pick ups are removed and cleaned, as the collect a coating of gunk over years of running. Lima locos tend to be the worst for this, followed by Hornby 0-4-0' and SSPP (sprung axle) 0-6-0 locos. Triang Railways / Triang Hornby locos seem to be able to run for decades between pickup cleaning maintainance.
If I'm honest, this little loco has had absolutely NO cleaning or maintenance done in a while... (like at least the last 12 or so years I've had it...) 😶🙄🤔😔
Hi Richard, I use a light sandpaper don't press to hard a soft rubbing, then I use WD40 to rub down with a bit of cloth, then a clean bit to wipe of any left, you should run better, not a good idea but it's clean and running. I've also used flexi track, yesterday for the first time and yes I had fun and games just like you, I had two bits on my inner track one or two engines didn't like, stopping or leaving the track, I screwed down the flexi after a bit of gigging and thank goodness alls good. Keep going Richard and I'm sure you will end up with fine layout,.....
Hi Francis! Thanks for the comment! I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has issues with Flexi track! Haha! Saying that, I will be revisiting using Flexi track in the future, as I think it would ultimately be better to use on the layout than set track... Will be interesting to see how I get on! Keep watching to find out! 😁😊🎈
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Hi Richard, this morning I watched a vid here on RUclips, and this guy had soldered the flexi track to the other and then started to lay the track which didn't move or stick out one side, so I should have watched that first!
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway soldering flexi track is on RUclips, just search working with flexi track! I think you could out that in and see what turns up, who knows it may just work, you want to take a look at Tony North Eastern layout or matt Slades new layout jubilee Road its called......
7:31 i am by no means an expert but maybe add more weight to the blue train that might help, also take the loco apart and lube the motor if you can and see if you got cracked plastic on the wheel axles or cracked plastic anywhere, or just run it for hours and hours on end and maybe it just needed to be ran
Thanks for the feedback! I have NEVER serviced it in the 15+ years I've had it, so it definitely needs done... Plus a good running session will probably do it good too! 🚂🛤⚒👍
by the way when clean your track again, first thing I would do (this might sound crazy) is use a cloth and spray it with WD40, and apply the cloth to the track then leave overnight. ✔✔😃😃
Visit Budget Model Railways, and look up episode 22 of Tutorial Tuesdays. It is about building yourself a simple controller using a cheap Pulse Width Modulation module, fitted to one of their 3D printed controller cases - they seem to be much more reliable than the Hornby item.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the suggestion! I'm hoping that Santa has a better controller on his gift list for me... lol Either way, I'll have a look at the video! 👍👍
Sanding is a big nono, it may leave tiny holes ready to be filled with dirt and dust. As for that loco, spacing of the wheels might be an issue, I sometimes have the same issues in N scale.
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway The track might have suffered a bit from frequent use, eg pulling it apart and then together again. I sometimes buy used trackage and there is almost always the odd piece of damaged track. You could also measure the width from flange to flange on the model itself. With older models these measurements might not always be correct which can cause a problem for picking up power. It might do alright on a straight but might loose contact in a curve. Older models might also have the problem that they don't run well on newer trackage because of the height of the wheelflange. And ofcourse the railhead itself might be dirty, with smaller locos it can be a real nuisance. You don't always see dirt on the track but it might still be there. I use a rag with some kind of cleaning fluid on smaller layouts and you wouldn't believe how dirty tracks can be even though they look shiny.
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Forgot to mention, a little service would also never hurt. With older models they used different oils then today, some of these can harden up inside. I'm guessing these use motor brushes too, could also be worn out and the same goes for contacts inside, mostly thin strips that could have oxidation or are slightly off position.
Thanks for your comments! I am definitely planning on giving the loco a service once I have a layout set up, and I will also be giving it a good clean as well... Most of the track is newer track - I think it would be best in the long run to try and avoid used / dirty track or the frustration would probably put me off haha! 🚂🚂😡😡
Just dropped you A sub. check the quatering on the 040 they may have moved or not been assembled very well at the factory. You can use a 9v battery on the wheels to get one side to rotate so that where the connecting rods fix to the wheels are say at the 12 O`clock position the other side should be say at quater turn to that IE at 9 O`clock, if there out you should be able to grip them in your finger and rotate it so they line up. controller wise H & M are plentiful but the transformer weight will push ebay prices up on the postage, there are some single units that dont go for great money I sold a pair a few months ago. I have the panel mount Gaugemaster ones that use a seperate transformer. I`m still using an old triang one for Dc on vids at the mo and a prodigy for the Dcc stuff, I have a home built feedback one I built that i keep saying i`ll show on a vid, It will run a loco so slow it will rival a Dcc controller for slow speed running, If you get handy with that soldering iron you could build one with a few cheap componants
Hi there. Thanks for the sub! I'll try that with the 9V battery on my little 040 loco and see how it performs! Would be interested in seeing your controllers, so if you have a video, let me know and I'll check it out! 😁
Hi there, thanks for the comment! I'll be reviewing the loco in a future video, and will look into the spacing between the wheels, as well as giving it a good service using lots of the feedback I've received! 👍😁
Use foil to cover the central rail areas as the contact and gaps are too great..by moulding foil on thse black areas you extend the rail and reduce the gap..do not clean...
The train wheels are slipping, very little traction. Add some weights to the loco. Also, check the depth of the wheel flanges. This could cause poor contact with the track. Just buy a gauge to check the width of the wheels or just use a ruler if you can find the measurement online.
Hi there, thanks for the comment! I don't think it was lacking of traction as the wheels had completely stopped... I will check out the wheel width when I come to giving it a service! Thanks! 👍👍👍😁
Hi Peter. Thanks for the comment! Is there anything you would recommend? Is Bachmann or other brands any better? I haven't been able to compare them because I only have my little Hornby! 🤔
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway yes I've found Bachmann to be much better made and far more reliable and accurate model, also I clean my track with white spirit initially also use a track rubber for bad bits
Those old H+M controllers are great. I inherited a Duette and a couple of others all still going strong.
I have been looking at getting a Duette controller... Think that's what I am going to go for when I get the chance! 👍
Hi Richard, along with all the good advice you have been given regarding servicing your 0-4-0 loco, don't forget to put a drop of super fine oil on the bearing at each end of the motor. The motors in these locos are middle to lower end budget motors and can quickly freeze up if it gets any resistance i.e. dry bearings. I was given a similar loco that exhibited the same stop/start issues as yours, cleaning the wheels, pickups backs of the wheels and back to back check helped a little but a single drop of fine oil (such as sewing machine oil) to the motor bearing and it took off like a startled gazelle. If you are going to use an abrasive paper to remove the build up of corrosion on the old rails use a fine wet/dry paper about 1200 grit or finer and do it in the sink under running water. the water will wash away any of the crud. Once the track/points are dry using a small piece of hardboard as Simon Davis advised will polish up your track to provide good running until you get the fund to upgrade.
Hi Dave! Thanks for the feedback and comments! Since posting this video, I've had a lot of really positive feedback with regards to servicing the loco and cleaning the track... I will be revisiting both of these in a future video when I am at that stage! My plan is to replace any older track with new once the budget (and the missus) allows! Haha 🤣😂
Check your track joiners are a tight fit, loose joiners can cause voltage drop out on the track due to bad connection. You could also check that the wheel pickups on the loco are clean and not bent out of shape. Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback! It does need a good cleaning out and service... I will also check the track when its laid down again! 🛤🛤🚂🛤🛤⚒👍
Hi Richard, I would say that with the shunter the wheels are suppose to move like that to get around sharp corners, The loco will need a service, I would start by cleaning the pickups (the metal contacts touching the back of the wheels, also clean the back of the wheels and you may find that not all the pickups are connecting properly to the wheels. To do this you will need to take the loco apart so watch some videos on servicing locos first before you have ago, It's quite nerving when you do your first one but rewarding in the end.
Thanks for clarifying the movement in the wheels are supposed to be there. I have been looking at giving it a service, watching RUclips videos on how to do it... I think I know the theory, will be giving the loco a service soon. Not had the chance yet, but will film how I get on in a future video!
Be careful with the older Hornby steel track, once it starts to rust its pretty much a lost cause. Any sort of abrasive such as track rubbers and fine grit sand paper for a cleaner will eventually make matters worse as you're cutting through the protective layer of the rail which prevents it from rusting, especially in an outside environment like a shed or garage based layout. It'll work for now, but I'd make replacing those steel rail bits a priority for replacement to help the reliability of your layout. Even with nickel silver rail the micro scratches from sandpaper and track rubbers really do speed up dirt accumulation and it turns into a vicious cycle of needing to always clean the track. I nearly always now use a bit of hardboard, the rough side, as its softer than the track material and can't cause scratches. I've had the clubs exhibition layout up and running in places as inhospitable as the engine house on the Severn Valley Railway, where the naturally damp air was causing other layouts to need to clean the track every few hours! I cleaned ours twice in two days by comparison. For a controller, I'd thoroughly recommend either a Gaugemaster Combi (for single track, or two of them for both of your lines) or a Gaugemaster model D (for twin track). The H&M controller, while very good indeed, isn't so friendly to modern coreless motors. So to future proof your layout it might be better to invest in a Gaugemaster, especially for the lifetime guarantee!
Hi Simon, thanks for the comments!
My long term plan is to replace all of the track with Peco track, including points, crossovers etc. I am currently only using the older stuff because I have it available... I think not having the new track is one of the reasons I am delaying my own progress really...
It is the same as replacing my controller... Will most likely be either Duette or Guagemaster...
But progress will happen (funds and missus allowing!) Eventually! Haha!
I watched this video on how to clean your track and it is very insightful.
ruclips.net/video/lBYxjcTWCB0/видео.html
He goes into a lot of detail about how traditional cleaning rubbers leave micro abrasions in the surface of the track, causing "gunk" to collect, and in turn needing more cleaning.
His solution is very smart and I think you should both check it out.
@@Deuce_and_a_half Hi Robin! Thank you for your comment and suggestion! I will check it out! Am still looking into the future cleaning methods I will be using for once the track is laid! 👍😀
Make sure the backs of the wheels are clean. With the pickups, make sure they contact the back of the wheels when they are pushed over to the extreme. Now, take your wheels off and make sure the pickups are clean. Check the back to backs of the wheels and put them back into the loco. Being careful to get the pickups behind the wheels. Job done.😊
Hi, the first thing I would probably check on the loco is the wheel spacing with a back to back gauge before you try anything else. You'r e right about the old school controllers, they seem to have been built a lot more sturdy that modern ones. John
Hi John, thanks for the comment! The width of the wheels appear to be correct, as they fit snugly on the track... It's just that when going round corners (especially slowly), they seem to lose contact with the tracks because they are loose... I guess they are supposed to have some play in them, or are they supposed to be fixed?
Richard.
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway G'day Richard, I run N Gauge and the locos I have do have some sideways play in the wheels and run without issues. If the wheel spacing is ok then it looks like that loco may need some surgery! If you can get hold of a back to back gauge it will be worth checking, I had an issue with a loco where it kept stopping over certain turnouts and it was the wheel gauge being slightly off.Hopefully someone out there might see this video who has had a similar problem to yours. John
Thanks for the help! I've had a lot of people confirming there should be a little play in the wheels, and that I need to give it a service... I haven't had a chance to do it so far, but will be servicing it in a future video!
You might consider making a track cleaning wagon. It's just something that you can drag behind a loco with a square of hardboard between the axles, free-floating and skating over it, rough side down. Try not to use chemicals because of the residue. I just got a job lot of rolling stock including a lot of those tankers but the later ones have ladders going to the inspection platform on top. Once you've seen that, the old ones look incomplete and silly. I'm going to have to retrofit ladders onto them!
I would get a guagemaster controller in my opinion they are the best
Thanks for the suggestion! I have been looking at a few different controllers, including Gaugemaster and the Duette ones too... :)
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway I switched from a Duette to a Gaugemaster with simulation. I thought the Duette was good but the Gaugemaster is superb - well worth the investment. And remember they come with a lifetime guarantee so buying second hand isn't a risk.
@@davidclough7346 A lot of people have recommended guagemaster controllers to me... I didn't realise that the lifetime guarantee would apply for 2nd hand controllers?
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Yes. So long as they still have the parts available - and given the current models all appear to be identical I'm not aware it's an issue. I had one fixed last week as 1 of the circuits was deaf when I bought it.
@@davidclough7346 Ooh, that's really reassuring to know!
Hi Richard As a follow up on using the dremel on the end of your track just give each side of the track a touch to make a slight taper inside and out side and it let's the fishplates slide on to the rail with no bother try it an see
Thanks Yeah, I did do that when I was filing it down even though I didn't show it in the video...
On ur Blue Diamond,, I'm wondering if the problem goes deeper,, like brushes on the motor,, or dirty armature, good luck
Hi Barry! Thanks for the comment! Possibly, I haven't really looked at it yet, but will do a video on it when I do! Should be interesting! 🤔👍😁
Further to the other advice given, about cleaning, that particular chassis is notorious for being slightly twisted as the equipment that produces the main extrusion is quite old. Put the loco on a straight and flat surface and see if all four wheels touch. It can be almost microscopic but if it's there, the loco will never run well. I had a diesel shunter which was rubbish until I found another loco, with a broken body and did a swap - problem solved. I can also recommend Gaugemaster DC controllers, although I've gone DCC now to get the sound effects.
Hi Paul, thanks for the feedback! I have seen a few comments about the little 040 loco being of... Lower quality... But think you are the first one who mentioned it being twisted! I will check it when I come to revisit the loco in a future video, and will check out if it's twisted! Thanks! 😀👍
Steer clear of the Propanol when cleaning track - it's an electircal insulator and leaves a thin, insulating residue on the rails when it dries which doesn't help conductivity. If you must use a solvent to clean the surface of your track, use WD40 which is a water displacer specially designed for electrical equipment and conducts. The best solution of all is to use a small block of balsa wood in the same way you'd use a track rubber which will remove the tarnishing (it requires some elbow grease) without scratching the rail surface. Good luck with your build and enjoy!
Hi Paul! Thanks for the comments and feedback!
I have heard conflicting information about using WD40 / ISO on track to clean it... Some say use one whilst some say avoid it and use the other... I guess it really comes down to personal preference really?
However, I HAVE heard a lot of people suggest using the wood technique, so think I'll adopt this as my regular go-to method going forwards!
(Once I actually get the layout sorted! 🤣😂) 👍👍
Hi just come across your channel so I subscribed look forward to seeing some more updates and follow your progress
Hi Mark! Thanks for watching and subscribing! Theres a new video every week (usually on a Friday) so there will be plenty of updates to come! :)
I saw a video recently talking about different methods and the one the guy used was wood. Sure enough I took a scrap piece of 2 X 4 with a nice smooth side and ran it along track that was giving me issues (N Scale) and it actually picked up dust and grime. The engine giving me issues was working fine after that. I feel like my N scale trains are more prone to failure from dirt than my HO trains, since they are lighter and wont have as good contact on the rails due to the lessened pressure between the rails and the wheels. My trains and track are all still fairly new, since I started building last winter, but dust has been a big issue. Sanding down on the rails will make them work again temporarily, but you will need to take care of them a lot after that or they'll corrode and rust.
Hi Dana! Thanks for the feedback! I have had a lot of feedback about cleaning the rails, what to do and what not to do. I realise that sanding the rails was probably NOT the best idea... All is not lost though, as it was an older piece of track that I got as part of a bulk buy, so will eventually replace anyway... However, I have tried using the wipe wood on the rails" technique off camera which seems to be working... I will be posting a follow up video once I am further down the line (pun intended!) with my track!
Ive had lots of unavoidable delays with my layout build, but I'm looking forward to the simple pleasure of a train, or just a loco, running around the circuit.
You've already had lots of good advice, but my two pence worth:-
Track cleaning can be a challenge. W&D or Sandpaper can leave micro scratches attracting more dirt. A piece of hardboard rubbed over the rails, maybe with a squirt of IPA is a good place to start. If not using DCC or Portescap motors then an electronic cleaner can be really good too. If the track/baseboard is completely level put a coating of pencil onto the rails (graphite) cuts down on cleaning etc. Hornby track (rails) which is Bright Zinc Plate (BZP) iirc, will deteriorate, you're much better going for Nickel Silver rail - but I understand your reasoning.
For reliability bonding the points with hard wiring helps no end, also helps if you're planning on going DCC too, but bonding the running rails and switching frog polarity (instead of relying on the switch rails for contact) is best practice for DC or DCC. Also check all aspects of a point before laying it, even when new, there are times when light fettling is required.
I've a Duette, circa 1976, I still use it now, I knocked it over circa 1977 and it's got a slightly twisted body/chassis, but it works well even now, with 7mm stock. I've also got a twenty year old Guagemaster and that's a great controller too - a bit more finesse than the Duette and a bit kinder on modern motors especially N gauge etc.
The little 0-4-0 (Smokey Joe style chassis)? Check the back to back measurements, give it a light service, you might need to fit a later Hornby motor (depending on its age) - they run better on DCC too though.
Hi there!
Tha k you for the comments and feedback! Its much appreciated!
Since this video, the layout has changed and moved and been disconnected somewhat, but once I have the chance to give the locos a good run again, I am planning on giving it a good service...
Also, I will be reviewing cleaning techniques as well, as I have had many comments about what I did and why using abrasives are not the best option.
Also, thanks for the controller recommendation! A better controller is definitely a future purchase for the layout!
Keep watching and enjoy your model railway! 🚉🚂🛤😃😊
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Thank you. Good luck with the rebuild I'll keep an eye open for any future developments 😊👍
@@musoseven8218 Thanks!
Hi, thanks for sharing your modelling adventure. Just reflecting on your track plan, if you're able to add a short straight after the curve, it might offer you smoother transition. Well done on getting to the trains "running" stage. It's inspirational to see. Keep going!
Thanks for your comment! Am glad my layout is inspiration for people!😀
Thanks for the suggestion... Where about are you suggesting I add a straight? 🤔😊
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Yip - just to ease the transition and make for a lower derailment risk as both those corner points will be expected to handle a lot of traffic. A short straight might help.
@@Herriot7 Ahhh, right! I get you now! The corner which enters the shunting yard... Thanks for clarifying!
Hi Richard.
Great video, you may want to use wire wool on the track to clean it then a wipe down after.
The Basic Hornby controller is terrible and the dial setting’s are way off compared to other controllers out there
Also serviced locos run better may be a motor issue or pick ups need a bit of tlc
Combine all 3 methods you should see some great results
Kind Regards
Jack
Hi Jack! Thanks for the feedback!
I definitely want to replace the Hornby controller, and once the track is back down I will give it and the loco a service! 🚂⚒👍
i have a few of the 0-4-0 s and maybe i'm just lucky but they run fine... contacts would be my suggestion too... 🚂👍🏻Neil
Hi Neil. Thanks for the comment! I will be looking at giving mine a service at some point, so will be posting a video on that at some point! 😁👍
Hi Richard, I have an E-link DCC controller by Hornby and have had no problems with it. Nice video keep going, Have a look at my layout Smallton you might get dome ideas and I tend to do how to videos from time to time
Hi Jetmec! Thanks for your comments and suggestions! The layout is DC, not DCC (at the moment at least), so have literally no experience of DCC controllers, so couldn't comment- other than to say I'm glad to hear you're happy with it! 😂
I will check out your videos soon! 👍👍
hi brilliant video i am currently re build my lay out after a house move . but no i have a door into the room how and which is the best way to hinge and get a connection many thanks David
Hi David! Nice on the layout room!
If you are making a folding lift up section, ideally you want the tracks to lift up and away... To do this, put the hinge slightly above the tracks or it will try and fold in on itself... Let me know how it goes! 👍👍🚂🛤⚒
I do have of of those duet controllers if u want it to get u going
Oh really?! That would be wonderful! Thank you! Drop me an email and we can sort something out! Thank you!! 👍👍😎😄
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway i will sort out for u over the next few days
Wow! That is wonderful! Thank you so much!!
All model locos eventually require that the pick ups are removed and cleaned, as the collect a coating of gunk over years of running.
Lima locos tend to be the worst for this, followed by Hornby 0-4-0' and SSPP (sprung axle) 0-6-0 locos. Triang Railways / Triang Hornby locos seem to be able to run for decades between pickup cleaning maintainance.
If I'm honest, this little loco has had absolutely NO cleaning or maintenance done in a while... (like at least the last 12 or so years I've had it...) 😶🙄🤔😔
Hi Richard, I use a light sandpaper don't press to hard a soft rubbing, then I use WD40 to rub down with a bit of cloth, then a clean bit to wipe of any left, you should run better, not a good idea but it's clean and running. I've also used flexi track, yesterday for the first time and yes I had fun and games just like you, I had two bits on my inner track one or two engines didn't like, stopping or leaving the track, I screwed down the flexi after a bit of gigging and thank goodness alls good. Keep going Richard and I'm sure you will end up with fine layout,.....
Hi Francis! Thanks for the comment! I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has issues with Flexi track! Haha!
Saying that, I will be revisiting using Flexi track in the future, as I think it would ultimately be better to use on the layout than set track... Will be interesting to see how I get on! Keep watching to find out! 😁😊🎈
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Hi Richard, this morning I watched a vid here on RUclips, and this guy had soldered the flexi track to the other and then started to lay the track which didn't move or stick out one side, so I should have watched that first!
Ooh, that sounds like an idea! Will have a look for that... Do you know what channel it was on? 👍
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway soldering flexi track is on RUclips, just search working with flexi track! I think you could out that in and see what turns up, who knows it may just work, you want to take a look at Tony North Eastern layout or matt Slades new layout jubilee Road its called......
7:31 i am by no means an expert but maybe add more weight to the blue train that might help, also take the loco apart and lube the motor if you can and see if you got cracked plastic on the wheel axles or cracked plastic anywhere, or just run it for hours and hours on end and maybe it just needed to be ran
Thanks for the feedback! I have NEVER serviced it in the 15+ years I've had it, so it definitely needs done... Plus a good running session will probably do it good too! 🚂🛤⚒👍
by the way when clean your track again, first thing I would do (this might sound crazy) is use a cloth and spray it with WD40, and apply the cloth to the track then leave overnight. ✔✔😃😃
Visit Budget Model Railways, and look up episode 22 of Tutorial Tuesdays. It is about building yourself a simple controller using a cheap Pulse Width Modulation module, fitted to one of their 3D printed controller cases - they seem to be much more reliable than the Hornby item.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the suggestion! I'm hoping that Santa has a better controller on his gift list for me... lol
Either way, I'll have a look at the video! 👍👍
You may have to do some maintenance on your little loco. Might be the pickups, or a bad solder connection. Cheerio
Hi there! Thanks for the comment! Will look into a service for it! ⚒🚂👍
buy gaugemaster power supply twin controllers you can use 1 side for the locos and the other side for your track lights etc etc great for beginners
Hi there! Thanks for the suggestion!
I'm looking at either a GuageMaster or Duette controller when I can afford to get one! 👍👍
Are you using steel track if so you will get problems with dirt biuld up , i use nickel silver much better,
Sanding is a big nono, it may leave tiny holes ready to be filled with dirt and dust.
As for that loco, spacing of the wheels might be an issue, I sometimes have the same issues in N scale.
Hi Ed. Thanks for the comment and feedback! Do you have any suggestions for how to solve spacing issues? Cheers. 👍😀
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway The track might have suffered a bit from frequent use, eg pulling it apart and then together again.
I sometimes buy used trackage and there is almost always the odd piece of damaged track.
You could also measure the width from flange to flange on the model itself.
With older models these measurements might not always be correct which can cause a problem for picking up power.
It might do alright on a straight but might loose contact in a curve.
Older models might also have the problem that they don't run well on newer trackage because of the height of the wheelflange.
And ofcourse the railhead itself might be dirty, with smaller locos it can be a real nuisance.
You don't always see dirt on the track but it might still be there.
I use a rag with some kind of cleaning fluid on smaller layouts and you wouldn't believe how dirty tracks can be even though they look shiny.
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Forgot to mention, a little service would also never hurt.
With older models they used different oils then today, some of these can harden up inside.
I'm guessing these use motor brushes too, could also be worn out and the same goes for contacts inside, mostly thin strips that could have oxidation or are slightly off position.
Thanks for your comments! I am definitely planning on giving the loco a service once I have a layout set up, and I will also be giving it a good clean as well...
Most of the track is newer track - I think it would be best in the long run to try and avoid used / dirty track or the frustration would probably put me off haha! 🚂🚂😡😡
Once I have set the layout up, I will be undergoing servicing of my locos, wagons and track... Don't worry - I will be making a video about it! 🚂🚃🎥
Just dropped you A sub. check the quatering on the 040 they may have moved or not been assembled very well at the factory. You can use a 9v battery on the wheels to get one side to rotate so that where the connecting rods fix to the wheels are say at the 12 O`clock position the other side should be say at quater turn to that IE at 9 O`clock, if there out you should be able to grip them in your finger and rotate it so they line up. controller wise H & M are plentiful but the transformer weight will push ebay prices up on the postage, there are some single units that dont go for great money I sold a pair a few months ago. I have the panel mount Gaugemaster ones that use a seperate transformer. I`m still using an old triang one for Dc on vids at the mo and a prodigy for the Dcc stuff, I have a home built feedback one I built that i keep saying i`ll show on a vid, It will run a loco so slow it will rival a Dcc controller for slow speed running, If you get handy with that soldering iron you could build one with a few cheap componants
Hi there. Thanks for the sub! I'll try that with the 9V battery on my little 040 loco and see how it performs!
Would be interested in seeing your controllers, so if you have a video, let me know and I'll check it out! 😁
@@modelrailwayfantasia I`ll write you a story next time. Lol
@@modelrailwayfantasia Its not about the length of the comment, it's how you use it! (Or so my missus says...) 😉🤣😂
@@modelrailwayfantasia Haha only 1 line comment from me?! 🤔🤔
You need to get a back back gage
Is that one of those measurement slider things? 🤔💭📏
Back to back measurement should be 14.5 but anything between 14.0 and 14.5 should be good to go.
Hi there, thanks for the comment! I'll be reviewing the loco in a future video, and will look into the spacing between the wheels, as well as giving it a good service using lots of the feedback I've received! 👍😁
I just use a hornby rubber works well for me
Hi Gary. Thanks for the comment. Quite a few people have said to invest in those. Definitely something I'm going to look into. Thanks! 👍😁😀
Use foil to cover the central rail areas as the contact and gaps are too great..by moulding foil on thse black areas you extend the rail and reduce the gap..do not clean...
Is that like how electrofrog points work? 🤔
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway See Peco points compared to Hornby
I have decided to go for Peco points whenever I buy new ones... Thanks for the comment!
wire wool
Wouldn't that leave scratches on the track? 🤔🤔
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway would eventually but as a light rub might help.not permenent
@nikbarr1721 Ahhh, ok! Thanks for the clarification!👍😁
For the weels and then see
I actually have a measurement tool I will give a go and see the spacing is OK. 👍😄🚂🛤
The train wheels are slipping, very little traction. Add some weights to the loco. Also, check the depth of the wheel flanges. This could cause poor contact with the track. Just buy a gauge to check the width of the wheels or just use a ruler if you can find the measurement online.
Hi there, thanks for the comment! I don't think it was lacking of traction as the wheels had completely stopped... I will check out the wheel width when I come to giving it a service! Thanks! 👍👍👍😁
100 grit ? ! I hope that's equivalent to 400 in the USA. 100 will start the rust quicker than you can say "Bob's Your Sister !"
the Hornby basic0-4-0 chassis is too crude to work well
Hi Peter. Thanks for the comment! Is there anything you would recommend? Is Bachmann or other brands any better? I haven't been able to compare them because I only have my little Hornby! 🤔
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway yes I've found Bachmann to be much better made and far more reliable and accurate model, also I clean my track with white spirit initially also use a track rubber for bad bits
Mine run superb
Hi Jackie. Interesting! Perhaps either I have a duff one, or perhaps a good service and track clean will help! Thanks for the feedback! 👍🙂
@@DarlingbroughModelRailway Bachmann are better quality all round