Got some minor corrections on the Parts Placement diagram found on the video. Please base your parts placement from the downloadable file package. I forgot to add some footnotes. To avoid confusion, I changed some of stuff. Link: bit.ly/2ZrGrXS (Same link from the descriptions tab)
Gud day sir, that's a nice video tutorial but can I ask you if what computer software you are using to design and to know the exact values of components you need to use on your circuit projects? Can I know that? Thanks
Hey there and thanks for a great project but are you going to upload the gerber files to your shared folder? Also, you may want to design it with a LM7805 style power supply for any style of Arduino device such as the Nano you are using. Thanks
Nice design, my wife and I built something similar inside a large, deep plastic stacking parts organizer. UV LED's along the inside of the drawer, to use we turn it over and slide the project underneath (on a letter sized clipboard). She uses hers for a photographic exposure box for workshops, so thankfully it doesn't need anything as precise as this, but I was certainly tempted! Also tempted by making the tray rocker, would certainly get good use in the darkroom!
Increasing the distance from light source to PCB gives better resolution of fine tracks and less "undercutting" of them. Basically, the light rays ar more parallel and scatter less around the mask. You'll need to increase exposure times as per inverse square law though. Also with longer times you need to avoid stray light getting in so use in darkened room or make from opaque material. Best light source I ever used for UV PCB was a DeVere large format photgraphic enlarger with colimator/condenser head. Distance form light source to PCB was 120cm. The resolution of the tracks was insane (mid 1980s)
Hello, Nice work! I have done mine digital PCB exposure Box based on yours( i will post pictures later) I will give you a tip...you are using a TIP31C wich is a low gain base current (low Hfe)...Wich mean you can´t deliver the full power to the leds, because if you don't provide enough current at the base, you won't have full current going to the Led's strip. If you use a TIP 101, wich is a NPN Darlington array transistor, wich is same package, the current delivery increase drastically. I have made led panels for up side and low side for exposing double sided boards at the same time, and switched the NPN transistor for a logic level N channel FET logic. just added a 10K resistor from source to gate and everything is going fine...both panels consume 4.3 Amp. Other thing it should be changed is that the UV leds shouldn´t be on when power is applied, but only when you press the start button....Because if you take 20 seconds to put the board and align the film, and put the timer for 1min and 30 seconds, the board will be exposed 1min and 50 seconds... Best Regards and keep doing the good work ;)
Nice, simply build. Only suggestion would be to use a container that has dark/black wall, and maybe a drop down swinging door. That way in the event you have something cooking, and get pulled off on another task, interruption or appointment, you can be assured that it will not be over-exposed.
very informatic video. I intend to make a UV exposure box for stamp making. thought to put an analog timer but I will use this digital time with nice known which I like. Could you guide me to make a digital time with this technique with a relay to control any appliances
Nice project, I like it but Is much better to use a MOSFET instant of this low current transistor. Also, you have to correct your code. The lights have to remain off until you start the new time cycle. Thank you for sharing :)
I went with a BJT since it was more common for others to follow. But yeah, a MOSFET would much be better. The light was intended to turn off when the timer goes off, this was done to prevent the PCB from getting overexposed.
I had read somewhere that it is necessay to use 365nm uv leds for this. Watching your video though that does not seem to be true. So, you are using white led strips then? Would uv led strips work just as well?
Hi, I managed to get the circuit working but I would like to know 2 things: 1 - The LEDs to be used are normal high brightness LEDs or UV LEDs; 2 - Are there 12V at the input of the circuit? Thank you.
Hi, I think you have done a great job with this light box. You explain it very well and I have just build one from your designs. BUT I have a problem. I've programmed the nano and the dimmer works but the timing does not. All I get is a flickering display with some Ö or solid blocks. Any help would be great. Keep up the fantastic work!!
Hi! great video. I'm kind of new to this... why some pcb require UV light and some can be done with only with fluorescent lamp? and why some have to invert the color of the circuit in the printed paper but your didn't seem to need it, i.e, what you printed on paper is what you got on the pcb? Thanks
Perfect idea and video Thanks for the details (the files), but I've a question about the light source it's supposed to use ultraviolet light source, is the led is a kind of this or it's a special kind of led ?
Great work !!! thanks for sharing your knowledge. Do you think is possible to modify by the use of an rotary encoder to select exposure presets we saved (like pcb dimensions or by pcb brand etc) because i dont think that we use a lot the brightness potentiometer (always at 100%)...
Im trying to work that out. If i can figure out how to get this PCB layout into Eagle or EasyEda, Ill let you know. I was looking for the gerber files also.
@@mdaslamknl NP but I think I am going to just settle for putting mine on a solder-able breadboard since its not that big of a circuit and with the cost and wait for 1 or 2 of these boards being built and shipped to me, i could could build plenty of these. Ill work out at least a dxf file and it can be imported into any design program to my knowledge
hello sir 👋, if i connect the led with series connection, how can i maximise the output from Arduino, cause already try, but the light brightness is low due i applied series circuit, can you help me?
I'm looking to build one of these, but I'm looking to make it smaller, primarily in height. I'm just wondering if there's any reason yours are as high as they are? Is there a reason the pcb should be further away from the leds? Or would it be okay to make it smaller so the pcb is closer to the leds?
Does anyone know where in the States PCB's can be done cheaply? I just want to have a couple of these made to make this exposure box and dont want to start etching my own until i have it and the agitator made 1st. Thanks
I'm doing the same exact circuit of yours, the difference is I'm using a Arduino Uno. Why my TIP31C is so hot, overheating? And also my 2 potentiometer is smoking. Whats wrong?
Bro, i found you while i'm looking for ideas for our thesis project proposal. Can you vlog doing some tips/tricks using EagleCad? Thanks bro for your response. God bless you! :)
Hi great video, thanks. Q: what program do you use to edit the videos ? , How do you do the animation/intro with the background white at the begining of this video? Thanks.
Hello I love your project and in fact I am building an imsoladora like that since it seems very interesting to use an Arduino and to be able to easily control the exposure of the boards. You could upload the schematic files to be able to make some modification. Thanks and best regards. Great video.
@@TechBuilder I know that 😀 but isn't there a way to buy the roll of a wire like this? Cause the thin wires are not strong enough > for example if I want to solder a micro usb port I can solder it on the board with a loop to make the connection more durable, I hope U know hat I mean 😊
I built this, but any time I turn my brightness knob less than 90%, it shuts off everything, and shows weird symbols on the screen. Otherwise, it works fine. I may try a different 10k potentiometer.
this is a slightly off topic question, but would you know how brushless gimbals do fine position control? I searched a lot but couldn't find a definitive sensorless brushless motor driving solution that could be used to make gimbals for small cameras say a GoPro. Since you've worked on electric vehicles involving brushless motors, i thought you could send me in the right direction :p
I made a gimbal from scratch before. As far as it goes, position tracking is all up to the gyroscope sensor while the BLDC controller controls the motor's direction and speed. The code creates a closed loop feedback structure between the motor, controller and the gyro. That's the conventional way. On the other hand, there's FOC (Field Oriented Control) but it much more complicated and is a whole other story (probably too overkill).
@@TechBuilder I understand how the closed loop system works, but I'm still confused how the esc manages to hold the motor position, after the error in the camera position is zero. All escs I've seen only control the speed of the brushless motor, and neither the torque nor the position of the shaft (I make multirotors)
Nice video. Thanks for sharing! I wonder WHY I didn't find your channel earlier! // Question: Any portable drill you can recommend me for my PCB projects? Thanks!
Thank you! For PCB fabrication, any cheap generic drill would do. I wouldn't recommend using a Dremel 3000 since it's too big. You need something small and fits at the palm of your hand, not unless you plan to buy those drill press Dremel attachments. I hope this helps! :)
@@TechBuilder Thanks for responding! I'll keep in mind your suggestions and Google for something smaller than those that you mentioned. Hopefully I'll find something. Thanks again and keep up with your channel and projects!
I'm not sure why his Nano hasn't blown up also being fed with 12Vdc according to the schematic and the PCB layout pic but the Nano's max input voltage is 9Vdc but with every Nano that I have used, anything over 7.5Vdc has caused me issues so I use a simple 7805 power supply or an adjustable bulk power supply you can get from Amazon and feed the Nano and any other devices with the 5Vdc from the 7805 / bulk power supply and never feed any other device in my project from the 5Vdc output of a Nano. I hope this helps you from frying anymore Nano's.
@@k7ilo_Las_Vegas Finally i made working In youtube he mention wrong to put 12v, it will burst everything lcd, arduino nano I made Arduino nano with 5v , its working In potentio control if i make low it will restart both working as brightness I will look and modify, i will use i2c for lcd
Hi Angelo How is your BB8?Are you part of the BB8 builder's club?Kuya Kenneth in E-Gizmo says you sometimes stop by there,I built the BB8 for myself,because the Sphero which I always wanted my mom said It is too expensive so I found you and did it.Do you know Rimstarorg?I now have Spero BB8 special edition Unlike you I know how to invent but sadly I never had a real invention Of my own,by the way my tito is a coach for the Green Archers in your school.I really love the movie Meet the Robinsons walt Disney because the way Lewis invents is what I want to do.Engineering.Do you know that Movie?
Got some minor corrections on the Parts Placement diagram found on the video. Please base your parts placement from the downloadable file package.
I forgot to add some footnotes. To avoid confusion, I changed some of stuff.
Link: bit.ly/2ZrGrXS
(Same link from the descriptions tab)
How much does photoresist liquid cost are all the same do they work for diferent Metals specially including gold and others like chromium
Gud day sir, that's a nice video tutorial but can I ask you if what computer software you are using to design and to know the exact values of components you need to use on your circuit projects? Can I know that? Thanks
Like those resistor values and even the potentiometer and transistor how can you calculate its values needed for your project
Hey there and thanks for a great project but are you going to upload the gerber files to your shared folder? Also, you may want to design it with a LM7805 style power supply for any style of Arduino device such as the Nano you are using. Thanks
Nice design, my wife and I built something similar inside a large, deep plastic stacking parts organizer. UV LED's along the inside of the drawer, to use we turn it over and slide the project underneath (on a letter sized clipboard). She uses hers for a photographic exposure box for workshops, so thankfully it doesn't need anything as precise as this, but I was certainly tempted!
Also tempted by making the tray rocker, would certainly get good use in the darkroom!
Your automatic hand sanitizer dispenser is worldwide hit.all credit goes to you.i started to manfacture your model.thank you for saving the world.
Increasing the distance from light source to PCB gives better resolution of fine tracks and less "undercutting" of them. Basically, the light rays ar more parallel and scatter less around the mask.
You'll need to increase exposure times as per inverse square law though. Also with longer times you need to avoid stray light getting in so use in darkened room or make from opaque material.
Best light source I ever used for UV PCB was a DeVere large format photgraphic enlarger with colimator/condenser head. Distance form light source to PCB was 120cm. The resolution of the tracks was insane (mid 1980s)
You got a lot of materials to invent, It's all interesting!!
Thanks!!! Yeah, I love to collect parts hahaha
@@TechBuilder Sana all!
Hello, Nice work! I have done mine digital PCB exposure Box based on yours( i will post pictures later)
I will give you a tip...you are using a TIP31C wich is a low gain base current (low Hfe)...Wich mean you can´t deliver the full power to the leds, because if you don't provide enough current at the base, you won't have full current going to the Led's strip.
If you use a TIP 101, wich is a NPN Darlington array transistor, wich is same package, the current delivery increase drastically.
I have made led panels for up side and low side for exposing double sided boards at the same time, and switched the NPN transistor for a logic level N channel FET logic. just added a 10K resistor from source to gate and everything is going fine...both panels consume 4.3 Amp.
Other thing it should be changed is that the UV leds shouldn´t be on when power is applied, but only when you press the start button....Because if you take 20 seconds to put the board and align the film, and put the timer for 1min and 30 seconds, the board will be exposed 1min and 50 seconds...
Best Regards and keep doing the good work ;)
Great project and very well conveyed! I can't wait to see your soldering station tutorial.
holy shit like literally everything i was planning to make was shown in the intro, subscribed
loving all the new videos. excited for the ebike
Thanks!!!!! I see you're updated, hahaha ♥️
Nice, simply build. Only suggestion would be to use a container that has dark/black wall, and maybe a drop down swinging door. That way in the event you have something cooking, and get pulled off on another task, interruption or appointment, you can be assured that it will not be over-exposed.
I mean you can always spray paint a clear container, but yeah best to get a dark one.
Fan mo ko since ginawa mo yung "smart" shoe generator. Galing talaga ng mga gawa mo. More vids Angelo :)
Using blue or black led would be great.
New subs here 😍 i am enjoying all your vids 😍
Hi. May I know where you got your Proteus library for Nano? I only have the schematic but I do not have the PCB footprint or layout. Thanks!
Well done.
Greetings from Brazil.
Really nice project, but shouldn't you use UV LEDs, because the photoresist cures with UV light?
yes, im also confused about this
no words to say bro....
Really amazing ❤❤❤
Thanks!!!
can i also use a UV light bulb instead of led strips?
what components should i use if I have a 5V UV LED strip?
very informatic video. I intend to make a UV exposure box for stamp making. thought to put an analog timer but I will use this digital time with nice known which I like. Could you guide me to make a digital time with this technique with a relay to control any appliances
Excellent
When i connect 12v dc, smoke coming from Arduino fired why
Thanks
Nice project, I like it but Is much better to use a MOSFET instant of this low current transistor.
Also, you have to correct your code.
The lights have to remain off until you start the new time cycle.
Thank you for sharing :)
I went with a BJT since it was more common for others to follow. But yeah, a MOSFET would much be better.
The light was intended to turn off when the timer goes off, this was done to prevent the PCB from getting overexposed.
Hi, I like it very much! Did you use normal LEDs or are they particular LEDs? Thanks.
I had read somewhere that it is necessay to use 365nm uv leds for this. Watching your video though that does not seem to be true. So, you are using white led strips then? Would uv led strips work just as well?
im wondering exactly the same
Hi! Please, when you will upload the video about the DIY soldering station?
How would you know if the pcb is property exposed?
Where did you get the blue desk mat?
great job... what size container is that & where did you get it?
Another good video, thanks ☺
When are you gonna do the soldering station ?
Plzz make a video on how did you make health band
Someday! :)
about LED, can i use old LCD backlight as exposure? i can remove filter and COF that give picture from it
Hi, I managed to get the circuit working but I would like to know 2 things:
1 - The LEDs to be used are normal high brightness LEDs or UV LEDs;
2 - Are there 12V at the input of the circuit?
Thank you.
nice project man!
Thanks!!!
for the buzzer can i use TMB12A05 Instead of 12085? and btw do you have olshop link for push button switch?
Hi, I think you have done a great job with this light box. You explain it very well and I have just build one from your designs. BUT I have a problem. I've programmed the nano and the dimmer works but the timing does not. All I get is a flickering display with some Ö or solid blocks. Any help would be great. Keep up the fantastic work!!
Hi! great video. I'm kind of new to this... why some pcb require UV light and some can be done with only with fluorescent lamp? and why some have to invert the color of the circuit in the printed paper but your didn't seem to need it, i.e, what you printed on paper is what you got on the pcb? Thanks
Man you are the one........perfect job😉👍...... bravo 👏👏👏👏
Fantastic! You “destroyed” what I intended to do. Congratulations! Thank you!
👍🙏✌️👏🤝😀🤪!
Perfect idea and video
Thanks for the details (the files), but I've a question about the light source
it's supposed to use ultraviolet light source,
is the led is a kind of this or it's a special kind of led ?
im also confused why there are white leds
Great work !!! thanks for sharing your knowledge. Do you think is possible to modify by the use of an rotary encoder to select exposure presets we saved (like pcb dimensions or by pcb brand etc) because i dont think that we use a lot the brightness potentiometer (always at 100%)...
hi: uv wave lenght ???
Very good video.and want more
Hello, nice project! I wish you a happy new year! I would be interested in what paper you print the drawing on?
hi, can you please make a adjustable power supply using 14 volt transformer and lm317 only
Excellent
There are no gerber files inside the folder
Can you give eagle .brd file so that we can make trace little big in easyeda
Thanks
Im trying to work that out. If i can figure out how to get this PCB layout into Eagle or EasyEda, Ill let you know. I was looking for the gerber files also.
@@k7ilo_Las_Vegas Thank you
@@mdaslamknl NP but I think I am going to just settle for putting mine on a solder-able breadboard since its not that big of a circuit and with the cost and wait for 1 or 2 of these boards being built and shipped to me, i could could build plenty of these. Ill work out at least a dxf file and it can be imported into any design program to my knowledge
hello sir 👋, if i connect the led with series connection, how can i maximise the output from Arduino, cause already try, but the light brightness is low due i applied series circuit, can you help me?
I'm looking to build one of these, but I'm looking to make it smaller, primarily in height. I'm just wondering if there's any reason yours are as high as they are? Is there a reason the pcb should be further away from the leds? Or would it be okay to make it smaller so the pcb is closer to the leds?
Nice project.
Thanks!!!
Can I use a 12V 10A power supply?
Does anyone know where in the States PCB's can be done cheaply? I just want to have a couple of these made to make this exposure box and dont want to start etching my own until i have it and the agitator made 1st. Thanks
Good project
this project can i change the arduino with PIC ? its will
work or not?
Can you build an analog multimeter as accurate as Sanwa. Tnx
I'm doing the same exact circuit of yours, the difference is I'm using a Arduino Uno. Why my TIP31C is so hot, overheating? And also my 2 potentiometer is smoking. Whats wrong?
Sensei, pa adopt ng concept ah. Thank you.
can we mask the pcb with that stuffs for the next level?
I can use ne555 and relay no arduino
what a soldering station ?
Bro, i found you while i'm looking for ideas for our thesis project proposal. Can you vlog doing some tips/tricks using EagleCad? Thanks bro for your response. God bless you! :)
Great 👌👌... I loved it 👏👏👏
Hi, I download your pcb PDF file. When I print it in A4 paper, the size is wrong. Way too big.
Please help.
19 seconds ago 3rd comment ...
Bro plz make video how to make a 3 d printer at home...
It's on my list! Probably by the end of the year! :)
@@TechBuilder Bro plz don't make it too long make it first in the list... please...
Ask in a poll to community..
where to buy the display, what model? Thanks a lot
Hi great video, thanks. Q: what program do you use to edit the videos ? , How do you do the animation/intro with the background white at the begining of this video? Thanks.
Please make a video on Diy green mask for pcb
Hello I love your project and in fact I am building an imsoladora like that since it seems very interesting to use an Arduino and to be able to easily control the exposure of the boards. You could upload the schematic files to be able to make some modification. Thanks and best regards. Great video.
I mean the proteus file, when I open the one that currently exists, only the pcb appears and not the schematic. Thank you
Hi, nice video's 👍, can you also please post the link where we can buy the jumpers as I'm having a hard time finding them ☹. Thanx in advance 😁
Just buy a solid wire and strip them from their insulation. You can also use the leads from the resistors, capacitors or diodes once you cut them :)
@@TechBuilder I know that 😀 but isn't there a way to buy the roll of a wire like this? Cause the thin wires are not strong enough > for example if I want to solder a micro usb port I can solder it on the board with a loop to make the connection more durable, I hope U know hat I mean 😊
does it works to esp8266 to replace the Arduino? thanks in advance new subscriber here.. nice video..
I built this, but any time I turn my brightness knob less than 90%, it shuts off everything, and shows weird symbols on the screen. Otherwise, it works fine. I may try a different 10k potentiometer.
Nice!!
Thanks!!!!
hello sir, can i get the schematic diagram for this project?
No UV Lights? With normal white LED's? cool :)
this is a slightly off topic question, but would you know how brushless gimbals do fine position control? I searched a lot but couldn't find a definitive sensorless brushless motor driving solution that could be used to make gimbals for small cameras say a GoPro. Since you've worked on electric vehicles involving brushless motors, i thought you could send me in the right direction :p
I made a gimbal from scratch before. As far as it goes, position tracking is all up to the gyroscope sensor while the BLDC controller controls the motor's direction and speed. The code creates a closed loop feedback structure between the motor, controller and the gyro. That's the conventional way. On the other hand, there's FOC (Field Oriented Control) but it much more complicated and is a whole other story (probably too overkill).
@@TechBuilder I understand how the closed loop system works, but I'm still confused how the esc manages to hold the motor position, after the error in the camera position is zero. All escs I've seen only control the speed of the brushless motor, and neither the torque nor the position of the shaft (I make multirotors)
Nice video. Thanks for sharing! I wonder WHY I didn't find your channel earlier! // Question: Any portable drill you can recommend me for my PCB projects?
Thanks!
Thank you! For PCB fabrication, any cheap generic drill would do. I wouldn't recommend using a Dremel 3000 since it's too big. You need something small and fits at the palm of your hand, not unless you plan to buy those drill press Dremel attachments. I hope this helps! :)
@@TechBuilder Thanks for responding! I'll keep in mind your suggestions and Google for something smaller than those that you mentioned. Hopefully I'll find something. Thanks again and keep up with your channel and projects!
Excellent
Thanks!
Make video on how do you shoot your videos 😁
Will do!
good job bro i liked your video and i subscribed your Chanel
good job
Hello, sir.
I'm really into boxes! Thanks for this video.
Btw, sorry we got deferred in LBYEC36 :((
Sure Benj! Haahahaha! Hope this covid thing ends so we can get back to our lab classes 😂
Its not working
when i connect 12v nano fired
can you tell how can i make it working
Thanks
I'm not sure why his Nano hasn't blown up also being fed with 12Vdc according to the schematic and the PCB layout pic but the Nano's max input voltage is 9Vdc but with every Nano that I have used, anything over 7.5Vdc has caused me issues so I use a simple 7805 power supply or an adjustable bulk power supply you can get from Amazon and feed the Nano and any other devices with the 5Vdc from the 7805 / bulk power supply and never feed any other device in my project from the 5Vdc output of a Nano. I hope this helps you from frying anymore Nano's.
@@k7ilo_Las_Vegas Thank you
for reply and clarifying
Thanks
@@k7ilo_Las_Vegas Finally i made working
In youtube he mention wrong to put 12v, it will burst everything lcd, arduino nano
I made Arduino nano with 5v , its working
In potentio control if i make low it will restart both working as brightness
I will look and modify, i will use i2c for lcd
CAN I REQUEST FOR A HELP? I GOT A PROBLEM UPLOADING THE CODE ON MY ARDUINO NANO, WHAT SHOULD I DO, PLEASE HELP ME😭😭😭
If you got a clone, kindly install the CH340 driver
Damn son ... Thumbs up !!!
good video
Hi, I did the circuit twice but it doesn't work, there is no output current, why? Thanks.
What transistor did you use?
@@TechBuilder TIP31C
thanks for the programe
Nie lepiej zamiast ardiuno nano użyć razbery pi nano większe możliwości i więcej ramu
good
Ahh thata the PCB u made in previous video
Nice
Thanks! :)
A led rgb niebieskie mogą być
Please show also that how to make a life size avengers rc hulkbuster
Good
Best❤️
Will you collab with me?
G! That would be great! Judt email me if you have some ideas in mind. Nice vids you got there! Subbed!
@@TechBuilder Thanks for your reply, wait i will mail you
I text you on Instagram (i don't get your email address)
Hi Angelo How is your BB8?Are you part of the BB8 builder's club?Kuya Kenneth in E-Gizmo says you sometimes stop by there,I built the BB8 for myself,because the Sphero which I always wanted my mom said It is too expensive so I found you and did it.Do you know Rimstarorg?I now have Spero BB8 special edition
Unlike you I know how to invent but sadly I never had a real invention Of my own,by the way my tito is a coach for the Green Archers in your school.I really love the movie Meet the Robinsons walt Disney because the way Lewis invents is what I want to do.Engineering.Do you know that Movie?
CHICKEN AND EGG. How can I make the pcb if I don't have the exposure box!!
Like I said: use a flourescent lamp. Or just do the toner tranfer method.
wow
👌👌👌👌
You heard me