Mr. Guptill, I cannot thank you enough for your video. My blower motor went out this morning, and thanks to you, I can track down and replace the failed parts. Your video is very informative, detailed and you clearly stated the important information that one should know, to tackle this job. This is my Saturday morning job tomorrow, and I can address it with complete confidence. Thanks again!!
Don, Thanks to your detailed instructions, the job was a success. I did have to replace the motor, and it's a challenge for a large man, but can be done. I'm estimating I saved myself around $150 labor, thanks to your video! Thanks!!
We had our blower fan quit last summer, just in time for those 103 degree days in California. Therefore, no AC in front. The resistor happened to be the culprit, thank goodness, but now, the wife complains that the front blower motor makes noise and smells like burning wire. While I didn't enjoy your talk about that last screw "being a bear", I think you hit the nail on the head. Thanks for a good description of the process.
+Kent Carlin Thanks Kent. I take it the motor had to be replaced. I think sometimes when a motor is dying it pulls more amps to run and kills the resistor. Could be your motor was on it's way out.
+Don Guptill I have a bad blower motor, I've replaced the resistor twice and each time I put the new resistor in with the bad motor it smells burnt. So just get yourself a new blower motor.
Went last year Florida to Ontario then to New Hampshire then back to Florida. My 2001 Grand Caravan made it to the top of Mt Washington, but before that I had the same problem with only high and low fan speeds. Once I got home and found this video, I was able to put in a new resistor easy as pie!This year the same trip, and ended up having the same problems, only the fan controls also stopped working altogether the last day of our return trip. 95+ at stop lights in Florida - Ugh! So I changed the resistor again but still nothing. So I bought a new blower and again this video helped me out tremendously. I even got that pesky #5 screw out without removing the sound deadening! Right now it's raining buckets, but it'll be all sunny in a few minutes, and I'll finish putting it all back together. I did test the new blower OOTB on the resistor, before diving too deep into the teardown, and it runs on all speeds. Thanks loads Don - you helped me twice now!
The fan in my wife's car started dying in the middle of a heat wave, and this video was just what I needed to avoid a divorce! :-) Thanks for the tips!
Thanks, Donny. I just did this job on my 2005 Grand Caravan today. Because of your video, I was prepared with the tools I needed and the correct level of expected pain-in-the-ass effort. Whoever thought it was OK to burry that screw way back there, imbedded in an inch of fibrous insulation, should not be designing cars! Thanks for saving me a few hundred bucks and helping me keep cool this summer!
Don,This was helpful to watch and much appreciated. However, I did want to share with the group that the resister pack actually resists the ground circuit to the motor, not the power/voltage. The motor has power on with ignition (far right top green wire out to motor). By selecting a different setting on the fan switch will allow more or less resistance to ground and will make the fan run at slow to fast speed. To test this, just jump a chassis ground wire to the bottom far right black wire. If the motor/fan blows, it is still good. I have just tested mine and it is just the resistor pack.Thanks again, just wanting to offer some advice that may save someone money that may still have a good motor/fan.Good luck all, John
Don, thanks for this video, saved me a ton of money and effort in replacing my blown resistor. +J Taylor, I owe you a beer! My initial diagnosis was that my blower motor was toast. But after reading your suggestion about grounding the black wire of the blower motor to chassis, I tried it and it worked. Thus, I only needed a $15 resistor and not a $72 blower motor. At least for now! Thanks JTaylor!
READ J TAYLOR COMMENT BEFORE PULLING FAN OUT. I wish I would have read your comment earlier. I tore apart the whole fan assembly and hooked up the fan to a battery and it worked. So I hooked it back up to the resistor and it didn't. I tried a power wire from the resistor (green wire) but grounded it instead to the frame and it worked fine, so that is how I figured out the role of the resistor in grounding. So if that had been explained in this video in the first place, I could have saved myself over an hour disassembling the fan unit and ripping out insulation. Now I have to try to put it all back together. Makes me wonder if after he replaced the fan in the video, if it wasn't actually a dead spot in the motor, but it was also the resistor and he had to replace that too.
Thanks Don for your step by step instructions and for including details like disconnecting the negative wire and making sure the fresh air door was in the right position when replacing motor. I saved myself having to pay an hour of the mechanic's time and gained the satisfaction of doing it myself. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the great video. Following your instructions I was able to replace the blower in my 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan and save a ton of money. I wouldn't have had a clue without watching your video. Regarding your disclaimer, my Caravan has an automatic climate control and your procedure was exactly the same.
Great job explaining everything most videos always skip important parts and leave you guessing which is frustrating when you don't know what your doing. Big help thank you
Don, Replaced my blower and resistor today in about three hrs. Many thanks to you, as your video saved me many hrs. Not only did I know about the $#** 5th screw, I had all the tools I needed on hand. Went from no blower operation at all, to 4 functioning speeds. Again, many thanks!
I'm no mechanic, but thanks to your video I was able to change the blower motor in my 2006 Town and Country. we live in Tampa and use the AC year round. My wife and I BOTH thank you!
This video helped me fix my ac yesterday, which was hardly blowing. I live in Houston and we are battling 100 degree weather. On behalf of my family, thank you sir.
Thanks for doing the video. The most important thing you mentioned was when you bench tested the motor it worked. I did the same and put it back together. I wasn't sure what was wrong. After seeing your video you pointed out something important, the motor has a dead spot. Thanks. I haven't fixed it yet, but you answered an important question. Thanks.
Thanks Teresa. If it stops working on you again, you can some times get it started again by striking the fan housing a few times. It may move the fan position a little bit and get the motor back to a good spot. Thanks for the comment.
Very well explained instructional video. Thanks for this. I will now (attempt to) replace the blower motor on my '05 Town & Country mini van. Hold on for dear life, kids...daddy's gonna try and 'fix the car'!!
Don, Thanks for this terrific video. I was able to replace the blower motor on my 2001 Chrysler mini-van (with automatic temp control) by following your nice clear instructions. Anyone attempting this blower motor replacement should pay close attention to how that "door" is popped up out of the housing. I also recommend taking needle nose pliers and pulling out the portion of the insulating pad behind the back housing screw--the one you need a flex shaft (or 1/4" drive universal joint) with 8 mm socket to remove. Pulling away all insulation in the working space gives max room for your socket and shaft to reach that back vertical screw. I watched the video several times before starting, and once during the job to make sure I had the "door" in the correct default position before reattaching the actuator motor. THANKS AGAIN--Chuck in Daytona
pur914 Thanks for thr kind message Chuck. The one thing I wish I would have mentioned is leaving that screw out upon reassembly. A mechanis friend of mine that workes for a Chrysler dealer said they never do when they replace the motors.
I watched a few of these and yours was by far the most helpful. Just the right amount of information and you went slow enough for me to follow unlike some other videos on RUclips where they move/talk to fast. My only recommendation would be to not hesitate to break off that back bolt if you’re having trouble. I couldn’t get it so I made sure to get a clean break and snap it. 4 8mm screws hold the housing on just fine. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks Steve. You are right about that back screw. Others have suggested the same thing or at least not replacing it reassembling. if i had to do it again... that's what I would do.
Don, can't thank you enough for the detailed video of doing this job. That 5th screw is in the worst spot. I'm 5'8" tall and average weight and I could not get a visual on it with my best effort. I had to do it all by feel and using a 1/4" drive with about a 3" extension mounted to a 5/16" socket. Needless to say, I did not replace that screw in case I ever had to get back in there again. Once I got the old fan out the job is pretty straight forward. Thank you again. Keep working safe and thanks for having the patience to do the job AND take video of the whole thing. Very helpful.
The resistor that I used in my 2004 dodge caravan looks identical,it has auto climate control,and when I replaced the resistor,it worked.Thx for the post!
This is better than finding out that I would have to remove the dashboard like i expected. Our fan hit that dead spot last fall, we had an engine failure and I rebuilt the engine over a couple months time. After all that and getting van running again the blower was running again too. I believe the fan vibrated out of the dead spot with all the action in engine removal/install. I am certain it will fail again (land in the dead spot) and plan on replacing it before that happens. Thank you for the informative video
Thanks for the comment. Some have said they restarted the motor by banging on the blower housing which still indicates a dead spot so if it fails before you can replace it, that may get you going again for a little while. Good luck and in case you haven't read some of the comments... some have just twisted and broke out the housing rather than trying to remove the 5th screw. The four screws that are left are more than adequate to hold the housing in place after installing the fan motor. Good luck!
Don - just replaced the blower motor on my 2001 Caravan. The vehicle was frying blower motor resistors every time I put one in and I figured the old blower motor was just drawing too much current (also the two prong connection where the motor wires connect to the resistor block was melted). The old motor was difficult to turn once removed; the replacement was more or less free-running. Anyway, a successful project thanks to your excellent video! However, I hope this is a once in a lifetime experience. The van just passed the smoke test - here's hoping it lasts.....
Hi Don, thank you for you video. I was able to switch out my blower in about 30 mins because of your knowledge. I really appreciated the diagnosing that you demonstrated to troubleshoot the problem, I have had an intermittent fan the last month or so and knew I had to get the problem fixed before the snow flies here in North Dakota. Surely a dead spot on the motor as it was off/on for a while with more and more off. I used a 8mm nut driver for everything except the front right screw that is right side up and had to use an open end wrench. Like several others, I loosened the 2 visible screws and the one that is easy to feel near the left rear, and then flexed the plastic until the ear broke off of the one that is too hard to get to. Not the way the dealer would have done it, but I am done now and not cussing up a storm out in my driveway. Thanks again.
Absolutely great video. If you hadn't warned me about the "hidden" fastener behind the blower motor housing, I probably would have given up and taken it to a dealer. Fantastic video!! Travis
you speak very clear and patiently in order to instruct others. thank you for your time and clarity. I get no motor speeds with while turning the speed control. I have read if it is the resistor i would at least get high speed only. this would indicate a bad resistor.
scooter12368 I would agree that if you have any operation at any speed that it is probably the resistor. High speed is battery direct with no resistor in the circuit. Typically ( I've heard) you tend to loose the lower speeds as the resistors fail. They get pretty hot during operation.
Did this today along with radiator and starter. Thank you for the back screw information. I had wife start it back with smaller hands. Now church sister has front blower! Tires in the next few days. Resistor also replaced. It was burnt.
Don, glad you posted this excellent video when you did because there is nothing else out there nearly this comprehensive. We just R&R'd the fan and thanks to your video, we were ready for the unexpected and got through it in about 1 1/2 hrs!
Thanks for the feed back Clint. My motivation to do the video was the frustration I had with R&R on utube for good info. I hoped to help others with this common problem.
Thank you for this very informative video. Using the instructions and demonstrations provided, I was able to determine that it was my resistor that went out and not the actual blower motor. I was able to buy the part for
Replaced resistor and blower motor today (symptoms intermittent function of blower motor and inconsistent fan speeds) - three humid sweat drenched hours on a Houston June afternoon - was it worth otherwise $400 bill? Absolutely! lol - totally tore up the under carpet padding for the infamous "back screw" (needless to say that screw it did NOT go back in - & will buy & glue replacement padding) - could not have done without this vid - thanks much.
I'm going to be replacing my motor this week before going on vacation. The fan stopped working, but a little bump to the motor housing and it started working again for a few hours and then stopped again, and sputtered on and off. I'm guessing if the resistor was bad the motor just would flat out not work. Thank you for this excellent video. The biggest issue I see is my big hands in these little places. Thanks again!
Noneya Frigginbezwax Thanks for the feed back. Sounds like you have a motor problem. Usually I understand that a bad resistor will cause some speed settings to fail or sometimes all settings. If you can restart a motor by banging on the housing... it's definitely the motor. Big hands is definitely a handicap working on newer cars. I too suffer from huge hand syndrome. He He. Good luck and when you put it all back together... throw that difficult screw away. You don"t need it!
Don Guptill Difficult screw as in the one in the back where you need to take out the insulation? I may be lucky...I had more money than I had time a couple days before going on vacation and had to have the shop fix the problem, which I'm sure was the motor. Hopefully they left that agravating screw out for me! I'm used to this big hand problem. It started when I became a copier tech back in the 90's...I always joked that these big American hands were not made to fit in those little Japanese spaces (Minolta copiers). Panasonic came out with their new line of copiers a few years later and fixed that problem - 2-3 screws and almost anything came out in units and were easy to work on with big hands. :0) TY for the confirmation that this was indeed the motor.
Don Guptill That SaxualProblems name is me...I play the saxophone, but not very well...thus the name LOL. I think my motor was good, but I replaced it anyway. Even though the motor would stop and start, when I pulled the wires from the resistor part of both had melted where there was some kind of short. I was able to pull the big plug out without problem, but I had to get vise grips to get the motor plug out because it had partially fused into the resistor, so I ended up replacing both motor and resistor. I was actually able to get that rear screw out fairly easily, but maybe I just happened to have the perfect size flexible extension, and I was using a screwdriver here, not a rachet. I didn't even remove any of the insulation, and probably could have gotten by without pulling the carpet back. Thanks for the tip on not reinstalling that same screw though, I would still be there now if I was dead set on replacing it. For me, the screw that was the bear was the downward facing screw on the right. Thanks also for the tip on putting the door back all the way to the right. I probably wouldn't have thought of that otherwise.
Noneya Frigginbezwax I suspected it had something to do with a saxophone LOL. Interesting situation you had with the short. It could have been caused by a bad motor as well. On another site a real mechanic diagnosed a repeated resistor failure with a tired motor pulling way to many amps to run and overheating the resistor. The motor replacement fixed it so replacing both motor and resistor will be the end of your problems. Good luck and keep playing.
Thank you for the video. Instead of trying to get that back screw out, I just wiggled it back and forth and split the tab and just pulled it out. The other 3 will hold it in just fine. Screw trying to get screw out then back in again. Otherwise everything else went well. As well as it can when your 5'11" and 235lbs. Man I hate tight spaces!
Thanks Mr. Guptill, exactly what I needed. Followed your instructions almost exactly for my 2005 Chrysler Pacifica and had the job done in an hour or so. Sure do appreciate that.
Thank you so much for posting this video, it was very clear and easy to understand. I've done blower motors plenty before, but never on these vans. Your tip on the air recirculation door was SPOT ON, and your video was a huge help as just this afternoon I replaced the blower motor in my '05 Town & Country. I successfully did the job in about an hour and fifteen minutes, using the tools you show here (the flexible driver is a MUST-HAVE!!!). I did not need the 8mm wrench to remove the downward-facing bolt, as I was able to use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a stubby extension and socket (stick the socket/extension behind the antenna wire and it's not too bad to get out). That hidden bolt at the rear of the cage I didn't even bother reinstalling, because I didn't cut/move the carpet padding. I would recommend owners perform a HVAC panel recalibration after this job (search on RUclips or Google, it's ridiculously easy), just so the stepper motor for the recirculation door is back in sync with the control panel. If, following this video's diagnosis procedures, the blower motor is indeed at fault, I would highly recommend owners remove the blower motor resistor pack ANYWAY, and blow it out with electronics cleaner or compressed air. I have seen blower motor resistors fail due to debris *literally* burning on the bare wires, and since you have easy access to it, why not take a few minutes and clean out out, and extend its life a little bit? (As a sidenote, the metal-caged resistor pack is Mopar original, the circuit board ones are typically aftermarket and tend to not last as long, but are less vulnerable to debris.) I've rambled on enough... But let me say thank you again for the video, especially the diagnosis portion, great tips there for the novice.
Thanks for the comment and good additional information as well. I was not aware of the HVAC calibration. I've gotten a lot of good info here from responders and I hope that viewers take a look at them.
I really enjoyed the video but one piece of advice that I would strongly give is to check the fuse first and replace the resistor no matter what. I followed the directions in this video to properly check the resistor and according to the voltmeter my resistor was functioning properly. I then went through the arduous process of changing the blower motor. After the new motor went in I still did not have power. So I did the next thing and changed the resistor. SUCCESS. My advice would be to just change the super easy $5 part and if it doesn't work, at least you have a brand new $5 part installed. If it does work you just saved yourself a lot of frustration. Thanks for the video! Helped a lot. Cheers
Hi Jordan. I apologise for leading you in the wrong direction on the resistor. i was operating on bad info myself there. Power at the resistor shows that the fuse is OK but I have learned that power to the motor is actually through the ground wires on the resistor pack meaning that if the speed selector is set on a specific setting there should be power at the corresponding ground wire and the motor should operate at that particular speed. You are right about just changing the resistor first. If the motor does not run then it IS the motor and you could take the resistor back to the autoparts store and get the motor. So I hope other viewers see your comment and take heed.
Don Guptill I appreciate the apology but probably unnecessary haha. Your video guided me through the process and I now have a working blower motor so that’s success in my books. Thanks for the clarification and I do hope that we save someone a little extra time. Thanks again
About the dead spot, your friend is dead on! Starters are also notorious for dead spots. Thanks for sharing this video, it will make changing the fan and resister on my friends Caravan much easier :)
Excellent video and explanation. FWIW, our resistor assy checked good as shown in the video and seemed to provide power to the fan motor but the fan motor didn't work. Before replacing the fan motor, we tried a new resistor assy anyway ($17 and 5 minutes vs $80 and God knows how long). The blower immediately started working again. Now just hoping the fan motor is good and doesn't burn out the new resistor. Thanks again.
Excellent video. Thanks. I replaced the blower motor yesterday but could not get the part that opens and closes the fresh air door back on. When I got the spindle to align with the teeth in the moving door, the screw holes would not line up. I can't get the door to move, maybe when I put the housing back on it pinched the door?IN any event, the blower works and I have ventilation again. Most of my time was spent running from store to store looking for a flexible nut driver, which nobody had. I didn't need it anyway. Managed to get that back screw out with a short socket extension and vise grip. The killer was the downward screw. There's only enough room to turn an open end wrench 1/8 of a revolution. I was half tempted to cut my wrench in half!Putting it all back together, I only got the back screw and the downward screw halfway in and gave up. Good enough!
Thanks. Yea that door shaft is kind of a blind operation. As long as you got adequate defrost... it's easy to live with. I never put that back screw in and no problem.
Thanks Don! After watching your video and reading the comments I was able to R&R the blower motor in my 2005 Grand Caravan in under and hour. The readers tip about breaking the tab of the 5th screw by "wiggling" (more like wrenching) the blower housing back and forth really helped save me a lot of time and agony. Especially since I did it outside on my driveway and the temp was 17 degrees.
+Ken Skaggs Thanks Ken. I'm with you on reinstalling that last bolt. My mechanic friend at a Chrysler dealership says they never do either. It will be fine. Hope your blower issue is cured.
thanks for the video. the easy way you explained it to the troubleshoot it helped a lot. every resistor coil is good in my resistor pack but the thermistor or thermal fuse appears to be burnt out. hopefully a new resistor pack will fix that and we get things only takes about 5 minutes to change it out.
Great video and I'm glad my motor is good- tested it with a small 12v battery jumped onto that 2 wire plug after taking it out, and the blower turned on, so it's my resister that needs replacement
I use the French to English translation sorry if it makes it difficult to read. I have two identical 2005 van and I had the idea to make a booster pack this winter with an 18 Volt makita tool battery. with 2 wires to the pole of my battery... it actually starts very well! but this created a short circuit and caused me to no longer have a motor that pushes any interior air... (It is not my resistance because I have already needed to change this resistance and when it is the resistor the fan motor and still assuming to run at high mode only... This is a good sign to say it's your resistor which costs around 20 bucks in my experience with my van) I used this module to boost the start-up this winter on my two van and doubly created the one and same problem on both: "no more air from the fan system." so do not try to boost with any source more than 12 Volts because it can be very damaging and bypass the fuses that still work. If this caused the fan's motor to fall to the famous dead point as you say... I will try to get them out of this dead point by reactivating them like yours on your video by giving a 12 volt power supply. banging on it ... (like waking up to the engine starter which no longer starts) I know the cause which is my short circuit so it's not a question of wear and tear to neutral and in all case if they go back for testing I put them back in place to see. logically I will not see why it would not continue to work... (I personally find that the mechanics have the option of replacing a part a little too easy to my taste, it seems to me that reworking must be possible, example a few drops of oil on the shaft etc... Because the fan motor is $200...) but hey I'll run all this... track to follow I will report a feedback here on these superb fans supposedly good for trash. thank you for your video sincerely I speak French but I activated the translation of RUclips in French. Long live mutual aid! Anyone who takes the time to make similar videos... you are all good people, with a good heart! A+ Jonathan
Thanks Donny. Watched this last night, replaced the blower motor in a 2007 today. Whoever thought up that 5th screw in the back deserves a punch in the mouth. 😀
Jim Tucker the Blower motor needs replaced as well. Iam a 12 year master certified chrysler dodge jeep tech , both should be replaced at the same time the blower motor itself is what took the resister out, the motor has overheated at one point in time and needs to be replaced at the same time
Great video! No question that a flexible 1/4 inch extension would make removal of the back bolt easier (at 7:15 into the video). However, I was able to use a 5/16 inch six point nutdriver to remove that screw. 5/16 inch is slightly bigger than 8mm, so the nutdriver was able to turn the 8mm screw head at a slight angle. Using a nutdriver might even eliminate the need to remove the padding.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post this video! Just changed out the blower fan on my wife's 2007 Caravan and because of your video it went smooth as silk!
Don, I studied your vid and a few others as well. The blower on my 2002 Grand Caravan was clearly bad. Your video took me right where I needed to go and ... I was defeated by that damn 5th screw in the back, even with an extension ready, I just couldn't get a good turn on it. Because I'm smaller guy I thought I would have an relatively easy time. I would warn anyone attempting this to have a few band-aids ready, once that carpet and insulation comes off there's a few sharp things under there that were ripping up my hands and fingers. I will probably try this again following Affatori316's "wiggle" method. Thanks for sharing.
Yes. I think Affatori316's method is a good idea. You may have read in some other comments that replacing that 5'th screw is not necessary so if you can break it out, it still gets the job done. Good luck with it and thanks for the comment.
Success! "Wiggled" that housing out, apparently there were some squirrels living in there based on some of the stuff I cleaned out. Hearing a fan blowing in the front is sweet music, my cold feet will be loving life tomorrow!
I just did my sisters caravan...tear down and reassembled took me 45 minutes...but I had watched this video 5 times at work the night before and had it memorized. That one screw is a bear...I'm convinced a really really long flex driver would have been great cuz you can't get both shoulders in there to work....but if you want it bad enough you can sprawl out and shove your head in there and use a 8mm and 3" extension and ratchet..anyone should be able to do this as I'm 6'2" and almost 300 lbs....I too did not reinstall that 5th screw and threw that thing as far as I could into someone's yard as I did this in a parking lot. Good tip on removing the cover by shoving the nut driver up through the actuator motor hole....I probably would have fought with that one.
Good job whiskey Tango. (great handle) I'm a bit oversized too. I also cant see well at close range anymore. That makes it difficult. Gjad you got it fixed and in an impressive 45 minutes!
Thanks Ed. I'm glad my video helped. I have other videos but they are not automotive related. I would refer you to "South Main Auto Repair". Unlike me, this guy is a professional mechanic and makes great videos on just about everything.
Great job on the video. Thanks for taking the time. I all ready changed my resistor but that's not the issue. I do have power to the motor but won't move. The "dead spot" makes total sense. Thank your bud for me too. Haha.
Thx for the great detailed vid. Sorry you broke the door but you helped the rest of us keep ours in tact. I liked and subscribed with notifications in hopes you do more repair vids on this vehicle. Mine is an 01 Chrysler Voyager and the blower assembly etc is exactly the same.
If you want to avoid tearing the insulation away from the wheel well because its glued to it, use a small pry bar that will fit behind the blower motor or your finger and just pull a few pieces of the insulation away from below the screw area.
Thank you! Thanks also to pur914 for the comments. With most of the insulation gone, I really did not have any difficulty removing or replacing the back screw (using a 1/4 drive flex extension). The blower from RockAuto was $34.79 plus shipping.
+Floorcraft Installation Thanks for the comment. In the fuse compartment there are a few relays that are interchangeable so simply replace the relay related to the heater and see if it works again. I'm not a mechanic but a mechanic I know says it's very unlikely it's the relay at fault.
Just a note, I checked for power like you said. Had power so changed motor. still nothing. Called a friend and he said you need to check ground to resistor not the frame. Checked power with ground to resistor, no power. Now I either take back apart to return motor or eat the cost of the motor.
I have foreseen myself swearing, throwing tools, beating down my neighbor, kicking the fender, and drowning myself in warm beer in a soggy solo cup while sitting on the porch with tears falling on my phone screen because I knew I had to do this. But thanks to you, this should be a breeze. 05 Pacifica....Here we go...thank you sir.
Thanks for the great video. I need some tips on reassembly. As far as I can tell, I have the recirculation door aligned properly, but once I tighten the screws on the fan housing, it seizes up and the actuator motor won't turn it. Everything works fine if I leave the screws a little loose. I'd prefer not to do that, because I'm pretty sure all four screws (there's no way number five is going back in) will be on the floor within about 10 miles. Any ideas?
David Snow Sorry you are having trouble David. The only thing I can think of is the plastic shaft on the bottom of the door may not be seated properly with the motor. They snap back together kinda hard.
thank you i needed that confirmation. i was thinking if the rear fan control is working at all speeds, and the rear fan works off the same resistor then wouldn't the resistor be good. thanks again
Great thanks for clarifying the door. Got it. Ok that sucks but plugged the New motor n the plug It fired up great and I always put new resisters in we got resistor v$8 and blower for $47 In AZ Pennie Pinchers. Auto parts.
I would like to thank you for posting this. I had the same problem with the motor and the resistor. This was a great help to anyone with this problem, because this is one son of a bitch of a job:-)
Never could get that back 8 mm screw back in, but it works fine. Been a few years in Florida with NO AC and that was a long hot haul, although it was a second car that was rarely used. Replaced that resistor a couple of times and it lasted a few days and then blew, so I knew that motor had to be bad......Thank You So Much:-)
Perplexed: I just jumped a wire from the dark blue power wire in the resistor harness to the power green line going to the fan. I then grounded the fan by jumping a wire from the black line going to the fan, to the screw under glove box. FAN went on, but only 1 speed. So i have power to the resistor and power to the fan. So do I change resistor even though I get no speeds without jumping the connectors? My test light came on when checking the green power line going to fan and also i checked to see if light came on for the black line of the same connector and light also came on. I thought if it was bad resistor i would get the high power at least. I didn't get any without jumping.
Thanks for the detailed video. I'm a 31 year old woman and I had no problem replacing these parts. You saved me over $400.00.
Just because you're a woman and 31 years old doesn't make you more or less capable of anything in this world.
I cant get the screw in the back
Mr. Guptill, I cannot thank you enough for your video. My blower motor went out this morning, and thanks to you, I can track down and replace the failed parts. Your video is very informative, detailed and you clearly stated the important information that one should know, to tackle this job. This is my Saturday morning job tomorrow, and I can address it with complete confidence. Thanks again!!
Thanks Phil. Hope it goes well for you.
Don, Thanks to your detailed instructions, the job was a success. I did have to replace the motor, and it's a challenge for a large man, but can be done. I'm estimating I saved myself around $150 labor, thanks to your video! Thanks!!
This is by far the best video I have ever used on You Tube, it was very detailed, easy to understand and short and to the point....Thanks Don!
Thanks Scott. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Watching your video saved me a lot of trial and error AND over $350!
Bless you and Thank You Sir.
Thanks BigDizzad. Like your International Harvester logo. I have a1855 IH cub lo boy to mow my lawn. Great tractor!
We had our blower fan quit last summer, just in time for those 103 degree days in California. Therefore, no AC in front. The resistor happened to be the culprit, thank goodness, but now, the wife complains that the front blower motor makes noise and smells like burning wire. While I didn't enjoy your talk about that last screw "being a bear", I think you hit the nail on the head. Thanks for a good description of the process.
+Kent Carlin Thanks Kent. I take it the motor had to be replaced. I think sometimes when a motor is dying it pulls more amps to run and kills the resistor. Could be your motor was on it's way out.
+Don Guptill I have a bad blower motor, I've replaced the resistor twice and each time I put the new resistor in with the bad motor it smells burnt. So just get yourself a new blower motor.
Went last year Florida to Ontario then to New Hampshire then back to Florida. My 2001 Grand Caravan made it to the top of Mt Washington, but before that I had the same problem with only high and low fan speeds. Once I got home and found this video, I was able to put in a new resistor easy as pie!This year the same trip, and ended up having the same problems, only the fan controls also stopped working altogether the last day of our return trip. 95+ at stop lights in Florida - Ugh! So I changed the resistor again but still nothing. So I bought a new blower and again this video helped me out tremendously. I even got that pesky #5 screw out without removing the sound deadening! Right now it's raining buckets, but it'll be all sunny in a few minutes, and I'll finish putting it all back together. I did test the new blower OOTB on the resistor, before diving too deep into the teardown, and it runs on all speeds. Thanks loads Don - you helped me twice now!
Thanks for the comment Andrew. I'm glad I was able to help. That old blower motor was going on you last year most likely. You should be all set now.
Bought the fan motor for around $70 - took a couple of hours to replace. "That one screw" was a doozie. All is well again! Thanks Don.
Thanks for the comment Jason. Glad to help.
The fan in my wife's car started dying in the middle of a heat wave, and this video was just what I needed to avoid a divorce! :-) Thanks for the tips!
LOL. Thanks for the comment. Never dreamed I'd save a marriage with the video!
Thanks, Donny. I just did this job on my 2005 Grand Caravan today. Because of your video, I was prepared with the tools I needed and the correct level of expected pain-in-the-ass effort. Whoever thought it was OK to burry that screw way back there, imbedded in an inch of fibrous insulation, should not be designing cars! Thanks for saving me a few hundred bucks and helping me keep cool this summer!
Thanks FXM. I'm glad my video was helpful to you.
Don,This was helpful to watch and much appreciated. However, I did want to share with the group that the resister pack actually resists the ground circuit to the motor, not the power/voltage. The motor has power on with ignition (far right top green wire out to motor). By selecting a different setting on the fan switch will allow more or less resistance to ground and will make the fan run at slow to fast speed. To test this, just jump a chassis ground wire to the bottom far right black wire. If the motor/fan blows, it is still good. I have just tested mine and it is just the resistor pack.Thanks again, just wanting to offer some advice that may save someone money that may still have a good motor/fan.Good luck all, John
Don, thanks for this video, saved me a ton of money and effort in replacing my blown resistor.
+J Taylor, I owe you a beer! My initial diagnosis was that my blower motor was toast. But after reading your suggestion about grounding the black wire of the blower motor to chassis, I tried it and it worked. Thus, I only needed a $15 resistor and not a $72 blower motor. At least for now! Thanks JTaylor!
READ J TAYLOR COMMENT BEFORE PULLING FAN OUT. I wish I would have read your comment earlier. I tore apart the whole fan assembly and hooked up the fan to a battery and it worked. So I hooked it back up to the resistor and it didn't. I tried a power wire from the resistor (green wire) but grounded it instead to the frame and it worked fine, so that is how I figured out the role of the resistor in grounding. So if that had been explained in this video in the first place, I could have saved myself over an hour disassembling the fan unit and ripping out insulation. Now I have to try to put it all back together. Makes me wonder if after he replaced the fan in the video, if it wasn't actually a dead spot in the motor, but it was also the resistor and he had to replace that too.
great information
Thanks Don for your step by step instructions and for including details like disconnecting the negative wire and making sure the fresh air door was in the right position when replacing motor. I saved myself having to pay an hour of the mechanic's time and gained the satisfaction of doing it myself. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the comment Andreas. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for the great video. Following your instructions I was able to replace the blower in my 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan and save a ton of money. I wouldn't have had a clue without watching your video. Regarding your disclaimer, my Caravan has an automatic climate control and your procedure was exactly the same.
Thanks George. I'm glad my vid was helpful. Wasn't sure about automatic climate control. Good info for future viewers!
Great job explaining everything most videos always skip important parts and leave you guessing which is frustrating when you don't know what your doing. Big help thank you
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Don,
Replaced my blower and resistor today in about three hrs. Many thanks to you, as your video saved me many hrs. Not only did I know about the $#** 5th screw, I had all the tools I needed on hand.
Went from no blower operation at all, to 4 functioning speeds.
Again, many thanks!
Thanks Todd. I am very gratified to have helped so many with this problem. Always enjoy the feedback.
I'm no mechanic, but thanks to your video I was able to change the blower motor in my 2006 Town and Country. we live in Tampa and use the AC year round. My wife and I BOTH thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad I could help.
This video helped me fix my ac yesterday, which was hardly blowing. I live in Houston and we are battling 100 degree weather. On behalf of my family, thank you sir.
I'm in Vermont and it's 95 today. Just a taste of what you have. Glad I was able to help.
Thanks for doing the video. The most important thing you mentioned was when you bench tested the motor it worked. I did the same and put it back together. I wasn't sure what was wrong. After seeing your video you pointed out something important, the motor has a dead spot. Thanks. I haven't fixed it yet, but you answered an important question. Thanks.
Thanks Teresa. If it stops working on you again, you can some times get it started again by striking the fan housing a few times. It may move the fan position a little bit and get the motor back to a good spot. Thanks for the comment.
Very well explained instructional video. Thanks for this. I will now (attempt to) replace the blower motor on my '05 Town & Country mini van. Hold on for dear life, kids...daddy's gonna try and 'fix the car'!!
Don, Thanks for this terrific video. I was able to replace the blower motor on my 2001 Chrysler mini-van (with automatic temp control) by following your nice clear instructions. Anyone attempting this blower motor replacement should pay close attention to how that "door" is popped up out of the housing. I also recommend taking needle nose pliers and pulling out the portion of the insulating pad behind the back housing screw--the one you need a flex shaft (or 1/4" drive universal joint) with 8 mm socket to remove. Pulling away all insulation in the working space gives max room for your socket and shaft to reach that back vertical screw. I watched the video several times before starting, and once during the job to make sure I had the "door" in the correct default position before reattaching the actuator motor. THANKS AGAIN--Chuck in Daytona
pur914 Thanks for thr kind message Chuck. The one thing I wish I would have mentioned is leaving that screw out upon reassembly. A mechanis friend of mine that workes for a Chrysler dealer said they never do when they replace the motors.
I watched a few of these and yours was by far the most helpful. Just the right amount of information and you went slow enough for me to follow unlike some other videos on RUclips where they move/talk to fast. My only recommendation would be to not hesitate to break off that back bolt if you’re having trouble. I couldn’t get it so I made sure to get a clean break and snap it. 4 8mm screws hold the housing on just fine. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks Steve. You are right about that back screw. Others have suggested the same thing or at least not replacing it reassembling. if i had to do it again... that's what I would do.
This was great, I am here in 2021 learning about my van that is older then all my kids and 5000 miles from 200,000
Don, can't thank you enough for the detailed video of doing this job. That 5th screw is in the worst spot. I'm 5'8" tall and average weight and I could not get a visual on it with my best effort. I had to do it all by feel and using a 1/4" drive with about a 3" extension mounted to a 5/16" socket. Needless to say, I did not replace that screw in case I ever had to get back in there again. Once I got the old fan out the job is pretty straight forward. Thank you again. Keep working safe and thanks for having the patience to do the job AND take video of the whole thing. Very helpful.
Thanks Dominic. Glad to help..
The resistor that I used in my 2004 dodge caravan looks identical,it has auto climate control,and when I replaced the resistor,it worked.Thx for the post!
Good for you John. Replacing the resistor is what we all hope for.
This is better than finding out that I would have to remove the dashboard like i expected. Our fan hit that dead spot last fall, we had an engine failure and I rebuilt the engine over a couple months time. After all that and getting van running again the blower was running again too. I believe the fan vibrated out of the dead spot with all the action in engine removal/install. I am certain it will fail again (land in the dead spot) and plan on replacing it before that happens. Thank you for the informative video
Thanks for the comment. Some have said they restarted the motor by banging on the blower housing which still indicates a dead spot so if it fails before you can replace it, that may get you going again for a little while. Good luck and in case you haven't read some of the comments... some have just twisted and broke out the housing rather than trying to remove the 5th screw. The four screws that are left are more than adequate to hold the housing in place after installing the fan motor. Good luck!
Don - just replaced the blower motor on my 2001 Caravan. The vehicle was frying blower motor resistors every time I put one in and I figured the old blower motor was just drawing too much current (also the two prong connection where the motor wires connect to the resistor block was melted). The old motor was difficult to turn once removed; the replacement was more or less free-running. Anyway, a successful project thanks to your excellent video! However, I hope this is a once in a lifetime experience. The van just passed the smoke test - here's hoping it lasts.....
Francis Darsillo Glad my video was helpful to you. Sounds like you found the culprit.
Hi Don, thank you for you video. I was able to switch out my blower in about 30 mins because of your knowledge. I really appreciated the diagnosing that you demonstrated to troubleshoot the problem, I have had an intermittent fan the last month or so and knew I had to get the problem fixed before the snow flies here in North Dakota. Surely a dead spot on the motor as it was off/on for a while with more and more off. I used a 8mm nut driver for everything except the front right screw that is right side up and had to use an open end wrench. Like several others, I loosened the 2 visible screws and the one that is easy to feel near the left rear, and then flexed the plastic until the ear broke off of the one that is too hard to get to. Not the way the dealer would have done it, but I am done now and not cussing up a storm out in my driveway. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment Brian. Glad you found my video useful.
Absolutely great video. If you hadn't warned me about the "hidden" fastener behind the blower motor housing, I probably would have given up and taken it to a dealer. Fantastic video!!
Travis
Travis Whitlow Thanks Travis. I'm glad it helped. Is'nt utube great!
you speak very clear and patiently in order to instruct others. thank you for your time and clarity. I get no motor speeds with while turning the speed control. I have read if it is the resistor i would at least get high speed only. this would indicate a bad resistor.
scooter12368 I would agree that if you have any operation at any speed that it is probably the resistor. High speed is battery direct with no resistor in the circuit. Typically ( I've heard) you tend to loose the lower speeds as the resistors fail. They get pretty hot during operation.
Did this today along with radiator and starter. Thank you for the back screw information. I had wife start it back with smaller hands. Now church sister has front blower! Tires in the next few days. Resistor also replaced. It was burnt.
Wow you have a project! I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Don, glad you posted this excellent video when you did because there is nothing else out there nearly this comprehensive. We just R&R'd the fan and thanks to your video, we were ready for the unexpected and got through it in about 1 1/2 hrs!
Thanks for the feed back Clint. My motivation to do the video was the frustration I had with R&R on utube for good info. I hoped to help others with this common problem.
Thank you for this very informative video. Using the instructions and demonstrations provided, I was able to determine that it was my resistor that went out and not the actual blower motor. I was able to buy the part for
Thanks Harry. Glad you had the easy fix.
Replaced resistor and blower motor today (symptoms intermittent function of blower motor and inconsistent fan speeds) - three humid sweat drenched hours on a Houston June afternoon - was it worth otherwise $400 bill? Absolutely! lol - totally tore up the under carpet padding for the infamous "back screw" (needless to say that screw it did NOT go back in - & will buy & glue replacement padding) - could not have done without this vid - thanks much.
Thanks for the comment. Glad I was able to help. And yes... that back screw never went back in on mine either.
I'm going to be replacing my motor this week before going on vacation. The fan stopped working, but a little bump to the motor housing and it started working again for a few hours and then stopped again, and sputtered on and off. I'm guessing if the resistor was bad the motor just would flat out not work. Thank you for this excellent video. The biggest issue I see is my big hands in these little places. Thanks again!
Noneya Frigginbezwax Thanks for the feed back. Sounds like you have a motor problem. Usually I understand that a bad resistor will cause some speed settings to fail or sometimes all settings. If you can restart a motor by banging on the housing... it's definitely the motor. Big hands is definitely a handicap working on newer cars. I too suffer from huge hand syndrome. He He. Good luck and when you put it all back together... throw that difficult screw away. You don"t need it!
Don Guptill Difficult screw as in the one in the back where you need to take out the insulation? I may be lucky...I had more money than I had time a couple days before going on vacation and had to have the shop fix the problem, which I'm sure was the motor. Hopefully they left that agravating screw out for me! I'm used to this big hand problem. It started when I became a copier tech back in the 90's...I always joked that these big American hands were not made to fit in those little Japanese spaces (Minolta copiers). Panasonic came out with their new line of copiers a few years later and fixed that problem - 2-3 screws and almost anything came out in units and were easy to work on with big hands. :0) TY for the confirmation that this was indeed the motor.
Don Guptill That SaxualProblems name is me...I play the saxophone, but not very well...thus the name LOL. I think my motor was good, but I replaced it anyway. Even though the motor would stop and start, when I pulled the wires from the resistor part of both had melted where there was some kind of short. I was able to pull the big plug out without problem, but I had to get vise grips to get the motor plug out because it had partially fused into the resistor, so I ended up replacing both motor and resistor. I was actually able to get that rear screw out fairly easily, but maybe I just happened to have the perfect size flexible extension, and I was using a screwdriver here, not a rachet. I didn't even remove any of the insulation, and probably could have gotten by without pulling the carpet back. Thanks for the tip on not reinstalling that same screw though, I would still be there now if I was dead set on replacing it. For me, the screw that was the bear was the downward facing screw on the right. Thanks also for the tip on putting the door back all the way to the right. I probably wouldn't have thought of that otherwise.
Noneya Frigginbezwax I suspected it had something to do with a saxophone LOL. Interesting situation you had with the short. It could have been caused by a bad motor as well. On another site a real mechanic diagnosed a repeated resistor failure with a tired motor pulling way to many amps to run and overheating the resistor. The motor replacement fixed it so replacing both motor and resistor will be the end of your problems. Good luck and keep playing.
Thank your mechanic friend for the explanation of the motor failure. That is exactly my problem.
Thank you for the video. Instead of trying to get that back screw out, I just wiggled it back and forth and split the tab and just pulled it out. The other 3 will hold it in just fine. Screw trying to get screw out then back in again. Otherwise everything else went well. As well as it can when your 5'11" and 235lbs. Man I hate tight spaces!
Yes. I'm 6' 4'' and 240. I know what you mean. I never put that back screw back in and it stayed together fine. Thanks for the comment.
Hell, yes. I did manage to get that screw out with a flex extender, but I certainly did NOT bother to put it back in.
Thanks! I've been living with two speed AC and Heat for 4 years. I didn't realize replacing the resistor was a 5 min fix! So awesome!
Good news Frantic Bob. Glad I was able to help.
Thanks Mr. Guptill, exactly what I needed. Followed your instructions almost exactly for my 2005 Chrysler Pacifica and had the job done in an hour or so. Sure do appreciate that.
Thanks Clint. I'm glad I was able to help.
Thank you so much for posting this video, it was very clear and easy to understand. I've done blower motors plenty before, but never on these vans. Your tip on the air recirculation door was SPOT ON, and your video was a huge help as just this afternoon I replaced the blower motor in my '05 Town & Country.
I successfully did the job in about an hour and fifteen minutes, using the tools you show here (the flexible driver is a MUST-HAVE!!!). I did not need the 8mm wrench to remove the downward-facing bolt, as I was able to use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a stubby extension and socket (stick the socket/extension behind the antenna wire and it's not too bad to get out). That hidden bolt at the rear of the cage I didn't even bother reinstalling, because I didn't cut/move the carpet padding.
I would recommend owners perform a HVAC panel recalibration after this job (search on RUclips or Google, it's ridiculously easy), just so the stepper motor for the recirculation door is back in sync with the control panel. If, following this video's diagnosis procedures, the blower motor is indeed at fault, I would highly recommend owners remove the blower motor resistor pack ANYWAY, and blow it out with electronics cleaner or compressed air. I have seen blower motor resistors fail due to debris *literally* burning on the bare wires, and since you have easy access to it, why not take a few minutes and clean out out, and extend its life a little bit? (As a sidenote, the metal-caged resistor pack is Mopar original, the circuit board ones are typically aftermarket and tend to not last as long, but are less vulnerable to debris.)
I've rambled on enough... But let me say thank you again for the video, especially the diagnosis portion, great tips there for the novice.
Thanks for the comment and good additional information as well. I was not aware of the HVAC calibration. I've gotten a lot of good info here from responders and I hope that viewers take a look at them.
Thanks for the video! I was able to change out the blower motor by myself using this video! And I'm a 41 year old woman. Thanks again!
911zette Thanks for the comment. I am glad it helped.
Excellent video, Thank you. It's summer in Florida, hot. My AC is finally working. I couldn't have done it without you.
Thanks for the comment. Glad you can stay cool. It's hot in VT. I can only imagine what Fla is like in summer.
I really enjoyed the video but one piece of advice that I would strongly give is to check the fuse first and replace the resistor no matter what. I followed the directions in this video to properly check the resistor and according to the voltmeter my resistor was functioning properly. I then went through the arduous process of changing the blower motor. After the new motor went in I still did not have power. So I did the next thing and changed the resistor. SUCCESS.
My advice would be to just change the super easy $5 part and if it doesn't work, at least you have a brand new $5 part installed. If it does work you just saved yourself a lot of frustration.
Thanks for the video! Helped a lot. Cheers
Hi Jordan. I apologise for leading you in the wrong direction on the resistor. i was operating on bad info myself there. Power at the resistor shows that the fuse is OK but I have learned that power to the motor is actually through the ground wires on the resistor pack meaning that if the speed selector is set on a specific setting there should be power at the corresponding ground wire and the motor should operate at that particular speed. You are right about just changing the resistor first. If the motor does not run then it IS the motor and you could take the resistor back to the autoparts store and get the motor. So I hope other viewers see your comment and take heed.
Don Guptill I appreciate the apology but probably unnecessary haha. Your video guided me through the process and I now have a working blower motor so that’s success in my books. Thanks for the clarification and I do hope that we save someone a little extra time. Thanks again
About the dead spot, your friend is dead on! Starters are also notorious for dead spots. Thanks for sharing this video, it will make changing the fan and resister on my friends Caravan much easier :)
Excellent video and explanation. FWIW, our resistor assy checked good as shown in the video and seemed to provide power to the fan motor but the fan motor didn't work. Before replacing the fan motor, we tried a new resistor assy anyway ($17 and 5 minutes vs $80 and God knows how long). The blower immediately started working again. Now just hoping the fan motor is good and doesn't burn out the new resistor. Thanks again.
Excellent video. Thanks. I replaced the blower motor yesterday but could not get the part that opens and closes the fresh air door back on. When I got the spindle to align with the teeth in the moving door, the screw holes would not line up. I can't get the door to move, maybe when I put the housing back on it pinched the door?IN any event, the blower works and I have ventilation again. Most of my time was spent running from store to store looking for a flexible nut driver, which nobody had. I didn't need it anyway. Managed to get that back screw out with a short socket extension and vise grip. The killer was the downward screw. There's only enough room to turn an open end wrench 1/8 of a revolution. I was half tempted to cut my wrench in half!Putting it all back together, I only got the back screw and the downward screw halfway in and gave up. Good enough!
Thanks. Yea that door shaft is kind of a blind operation. As long as you got adequate defrost... it's easy to live with. I never put that back screw in and no problem.
Thanks. Saved me a lot of hassle. Replaced my resistor in 5 minutes flat. Total cost $12.99+tax.
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for going back over the part on the resistor at the end as well nicely done and you didn't rush while speaking ..thank you
Thanks Rodney.
thank you for your tutorial. I watched and successfully changed my own blower motor and resistor after another resistor failed.
Nurse Darla Thank you very much. I'm glad it helped.
Thanks Don! After watching your video and reading the comments I was able to R&R the blower motor in my 2005 Grand Caravan in under and hour. The readers tip about breaking the tab of the 5th screw by "wiggling" (more like wrenching) the blower housing back and forth really helped save me a lot of time and agony. Especially since I did it outside on my driveway and the temp was 17 degrees.
Fast work Peter! Glad it went well for you. If i had to do it again... I'd just snap it off too!
This video is SO well done! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Great video. You walked me through it all the way. That one hard bolt in the back- I didn't put it back in. I don't think it's that important.
+Ken Skaggs Thanks Ken. I'm with you on reinstalling that last bolt. My mechanic friend at a Chrysler dealership says they never do either. It will be fine. Hope your blower issue is cured.
+Don Guptill It is cured, thanks to you:)
Really good instructional video. Much, much better than others I've seen, thank you sir.
Thanks Marty. Hope you are blowing air at 4 speeds again.
thanks very much 4 the details on how to remove this fan blower. I couldn't have done it without you thanks a lot.
Thank you Joseph. I'm glad I could help.
thanks for the video. the easy way you explained it to the troubleshoot it helped a lot. every resistor coil is good in my resistor pack but the thermistor or thermal fuse appears to be burnt out. hopefully a new resistor pack will fix that and we get things only takes about 5 minutes to change it out.
Thanks for the comment. Hope the resistir change fixes your blower.
Great Job! Thank you. Replaced ours for $45
Great video and I'm glad my motor is good- tested it with a small 12v battery jumped onto that 2 wire plug after taking it out, and the blower turned on, so it's my resister that needs replacement
I use the French to English translation sorry if it makes it difficult to read.
I have two identical 2005 van and I had the idea to make a booster pack this winter with an 18 Volt makita tool battery. with 2 wires to the pole of my battery... it actually starts very well! but this created a short circuit and caused me to no longer have a motor that pushes any interior air... (It is not my resistance because I have already needed to change this resistance and when it is the resistor the fan motor and still assuming to run at high mode only... This is a good sign to say it's your resistor which costs around 20 bucks in my experience with my van) I used this module to boost the start-up this winter on my two van and doubly created the one and same problem on both: "no more air from the fan system." so do not try to boost with any source more than 12 Volts because it can be very damaging and bypass the fuses that still work. If this caused the fan's motor to fall to the famous dead point as you say... I will try to get them out of this dead point by reactivating them like yours on your video by giving a 12 volt power supply. banging on it ... (like waking up to the engine starter which no longer starts) I know the cause which is my short circuit so it's not a question of wear and tear to neutral and in all case if they go back for testing I put them back in place to see. logically I will not see why it would not continue to work... (I personally find that the mechanics have the option of replacing a part a little too easy to my taste, it seems to me that reworking must be possible, example a few drops of oil on the shaft etc... Because the fan motor is $200...) but hey I'll run all this... track to follow I will report a feedback here on these superb fans supposedly good for trash. thank you for your video sincerely I speak French but I activated the translation of RUclips in French. Long live mutual aid! Anyone who takes the time to make similar videos... you are all good people, with a good heart! A+ Jonathan
You Sir are a gem thanks for the info offered here and thanks for taking the time and explaining everything.God bless
Thanks. I'm glad you found my video helpful.
Thanks Donny. Watched this last night, replaced the blower motor in a 2007 today. Whoever thought up that 5th screw in the back deserves a punch in the mouth. 😀
Thank you so very much for posting this. Fortunately, just my resistor was bad. Your video helped tremendously.
Jim Tucker the Blower motor needs replaced as well. Iam a 12 year master certified chrysler dodge jeep tech , both should be replaced at the same time the blower motor itself is what took the resister out, the motor has overheated at one point in time and needs to be replaced at the same time
Great video!
No question that a flexible 1/4 inch extension would make removal of the back bolt easier (at 7:15 into the video).
However, I was able to use a 5/16 inch six point nutdriver to remove that screw. 5/16 inch is slightly bigger than 8mm, so the nutdriver was able to turn the 8mm screw head at a slight angle. Using a nutdriver might even eliminate the need to remove the padding.
Good advice Gromittoo. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post this video! Just changed out the blower fan on my wife's 2007 Caravan and because of your video it went smooth as silk!
Thanks DavidI'm glad my video was helpful to you..
Thanks for sharing your experience and know how. It will save me a ton of time and frustration. Great job!
Thanks Joe
Don, I studied your vid and a few others as well. The blower on my 2002
Grand Caravan was clearly bad. Your video took me right where I needed
to go and ... I was defeated by that damn 5th screw in the back, even
with an extension ready, I just couldn't get a good turn on it. Because
I'm smaller guy I thought I would have an relatively easy time. I would
warn anyone attempting this to have a few band-aids ready, once that
carpet and insulation comes off there's a few sharp things under there
that were ripping up my hands and fingers. I will probably try this
again following Affatori316's "wiggle" method. Thanks for sharing.
Yes. I think Affatori316's method is a good idea. You may have read in some other comments that replacing that 5'th screw is not necessary so if you can break it out, it still gets the job done. Good luck with it and thanks for the comment.
Success! "Wiggled" that housing out, apparently there were some squirrels living in there based on some of the stuff I cleaned out. Hearing a fan blowing in the front is sweet music, my cold feet will be loving life tomorrow!
Great job Don, it really helps me a lot.
Thanks Florin. I'm glad I could help.
I just did my sisters caravan...tear down and reassembled took me 45 minutes...but I had watched this video 5 times at work the night before and had it memorized. That one screw is a bear...I'm convinced a really really long flex driver would have been great cuz you can't get both shoulders in there to work....but if you want it bad enough you can sprawl out and shove your head in there and use a 8mm and 3" extension and ratchet..anyone should be able to do this as I'm 6'2" and almost 300 lbs....I too did not reinstall that 5th screw and threw that thing as far as I could into someone's yard as I did this in a parking lot. Good tip on removing the cover by shoving the nut driver up through the actuator motor hole....I probably would have fought with that one.
Good job whiskey Tango. (great handle) I'm a bit oversized too. I also cant see well at close range anymore. That makes it difficult. Gjad you got it fixed and in an impressive 45 minutes!
Great job! Followed the video knocked it out in about an hour.
I'm glad my video helped. Good to give back a little for all of the "how to" posts that people make. Iv'e benefited much more that I've shared.
Thank you for your time and detail saved me alot of time
Thanks. I'm glad you found it helpful'
Very informative video. Based on the video I was able to replace blower motor.
Thanks Drazen. I'm glad so many have found it helpful. I use you tube quite often to research fixes around the house and shop.
The Best video I have seen for the blower motor and actuator replacement. My actuator was bad also. Thanks. Got anymore videos?
Thanks Ed. I'm glad my video helped. I have other videos but they are not automotive related. I would refer you to "South Main Auto Repair". Unlike me, this guy is a professional mechanic and makes great videos on just about everything.
Awesome video! I fixed it myself and saved over $200
Thanks Kathy. Way to go girl!
Thank You Donny for the great video and explanations.
Great job on the video. Thanks for taking the time. I all ready changed my resistor but that's not the issue. I do have power to the motor but won't move. The "dead spot" makes total sense. Thank your bud for me too. Haha.
Thanks for the nice comment. I'm glad I was able to help.
Thank you for this very informative video and commentary.
You are welcome. Hope it is helpful to you.
Thx for the great detailed vid. Sorry you broke the door but you helped the rest of us keep ours in tact. I liked and subscribed with notifications in hopes you do more repair vids on this vehicle. Mine is an 01 Chrysler Voyager and the blower assembly etc is exactly the same.
I appreciate your thorough explanation. Thanks
+Ozzy Lozada Thank you.
Great video. very informative and easy to understand.
Don, Thanks so much for taking your time to produce this very informative video. Much appreciated.
Thanks Pat. Glad to help.
Thank guy my kids are happy with the heat God bless
Awesome job. Thanks so much, you saved me money and time!
Thanks Brian. I'm glad it helped.
Thanks, very informative. Will use the info when troubleshooting my 06 Caravan. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment Tim. Hope your fix goes well.
If you want to avoid tearing the insulation away from the wheel well because its glued to it, use a small pry bar that will fit behind the blower motor or your finger and just pull a few pieces of the insulation away from below the screw area.
Thanks for your video you helped me greatly . Thank You so much.🌹🙏✌
Thank you! Thanks also to pur914 for the comments. With most of the insulation gone, I really did not have any difficulty removing or replacing the back screw (using a 1/4 drive flex extension). The blower from RockAuto was $34.79 plus shipping.
William Roberts Wow! Good price on that blower motor. Thanks for the feedback.
But thank you Don for showing us this!! Bless you
great video it work for me I just need to replace the rear one but I don't know where is the part located in the van. ..
Don, this is the best well documented video I have seen - THANK YOU! How did you test the relay?
+Floorcraft Installation Thanks for the comment. In the fuse compartment there are a few relays that are interchangeable so simply replace the relay related to the heater and see if it works again. I'm not a mechanic but a mechanic I know says it's very unlikely it's the relay at fault.
Just a note, I checked for power like you said. Had power so changed motor. still nothing. Called a friend and he said you need to check ground to resistor not the frame. Checked power with ground to resistor, no power. Now I either take back apart to return motor or eat the cost of the motor.
otherwise it was a great video, thanks !!
Thanks a million, excellent video, very helpful!
Thanks Dwight. Glad to help.
You can try to smack the motor to see if it starts working. If it starts working after smacking it then it needs a new one.
have that problem- so, at 275,000 miles, I'm just gonna keep smacking.
Thank you so much i actual changed out my own blower motor with your help and I am a GIrl
Good for you. of course you already know being a girl is no handicap. Thanks for the feed back.
I have foreseen myself swearing, throwing tools, beating down my neighbor, kicking the fender, and drowning myself in warm beer in a soggy solo cup while sitting on the porch with tears falling on my phone screen because I knew I had to do this.
But thanks to you, this should be a breeze.
05 Pacifica....Here we go...thank you sir.
You articulate a picture we can all relate to. I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for the comment.
Exceptional video, thanks
Thanks for the great video. I need some tips on reassembly. As far as I can tell, I have the recirculation door aligned properly, but once I tighten the screws on the fan housing, it seizes up and the actuator motor won't turn it. Everything works fine if I leave the screws a little loose. I'd prefer not to do that, because I'm pretty sure all four screws (there's no way number five is going back in) will be on the floor within about 10 miles. Any ideas?
David Snow Sorry you are having trouble David. The only thing I can think of is the plastic shaft on the bottom of the door may not be seated properly with the motor. They snap back together kinda hard.
great video i am trouble shooting problem...thank you!
I thank the Lord for your help.
Excellent, Helpful tip's thanks so much
You are welcome. I'm glad I could help
thank you i needed that confirmation. i was thinking if the rear fan control is working at all speeds, and the rear fan works off the same resistor then wouldn't the resistor be good. thanks again
scooter12368
Front and rear fan controls are completely separate. Different fuse, different power relay, different speed control.
Great thanks for clarifying the door. Got it. Ok that sucks but plugged the New motor n the plug It fired up great and I always put new resisters in we got resistor v$8 and blower for $47 In AZ Pennie Pinchers. Auto
parts.
Glad to help and good deal on those parts
I would like to thank you for posting this. I had the same problem with the motor and the resistor. This was a great help to anyone with this problem, because this is one son of a bitch of a job:-)
You got that right Bruce and thanks for the comment.
Never could get that back 8 mm screw back in, but it works fine. Been a few years in Florida with NO AC and that was a long hot haul, although it was a second car that was rarely used. Replaced that resistor a couple of times and it lasted a few days and then blew, so I knew that motor had to be bad......Thank You So Much:-)
Perplexed: I just jumped a wire from the dark blue power wire in the resistor harness to the power green line going to the fan. I then grounded the fan by jumping a wire from the black line going to the fan, to the screw under glove box.
FAN went on, but only 1 speed. So i have power to the resistor and power to the fan. So do I change resistor even though I get no speeds without jumping the connectors?
My test light came on when checking the green power line going to fan and also i checked to see if light came on for the black line of the same connector and light also came on. I thought if it was bad resistor i would get the high power at least. I didn't get any without jumping.