Having the same issue on mine, I'll be replacing the sensor and cleaning the throttle body and ecg valve. Any update with the issue coming back? Thank you
Changing that sensor fixed the "Exhaust Gas Recirculation No Flow Detected" code on my S80, but I'm still having sometimes very brief losses of power. Not as much as before but I'm still having it sometimes. And there is no error codes whatsoever.
I'd suspect the egr may still have a problem on your case as if the egr actuator was sticking or the flap was jammed up it'd cause that. Have you done what I did on previous video and cleaned out the egr as much as you could? That's where I'd be looking at next
Yep, the RGR, the throttle body and the pipe to the intake manifold are perfectly clean. Took me half a day to clean up all the "mud". I suspect that automatic gearbox may have something to do with it.
@@petkozhivkov4271 if it's the auto gearbox, you'd probably get a raise in revs without power (like car going into neutral, a rev then it re engaged). Is it worse when car/transmission is hot? If so then yes could be the autobox fluid needs changing. I had mine done a year ago and it definitely improves the gear changes as they became smoother. The problem is trying to track down your exact issue without doing expensive jobs to solve it. Good luck, hopefully you'll catch a fault code or be able to spot something they helps narrow it down
I’d be looking at the MAP sensor on the intake manifold. My 2.0 5-cyl D4 V70 occasionally has a hiccup at part throttle when cold but never brings up an error code. It’s had 3 MAP sensors over its 187,000 miles. Whenever I change them it gets rid of the problem for a good while (2-3 years) but it always comes back so I’m treating them as a consumable. Bosch ones are only £40 from my local motor factor. And it’s literally a 5 minute job to change it (unlike the one in this video) so no big deal to change it. It’s double that cost just to get a Volvo agent to read the code, so it might be worth a gamble just changing it anyway.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Sir are the issues solved so far.
No use replaced the turbo boost sensor still getting the same error
Having the same issue on mine, I'll be replacing the sensor and cleaning the throttle body and ecg valve. Any update with the issue coming back? Thank you
Glad you finally semm to have managed to get to the bottom of the issue and it wasnt anything too expensive
Changing that sensor fixed the "Exhaust Gas Recirculation No Flow Detected" code on my S80, but I'm still having sometimes very brief losses of power. Not as much as before but I'm still having it sometimes. And there is no error codes whatsoever.
I'd suspect the egr may still have a problem on your case as if the egr actuator was sticking or the flap was jammed up it'd cause that. Have you done what I did on previous video and cleaned out the egr as much as you could? That's where I'd be looking at next
Yep, the RGR, the throttle body and the pipe to the intake manifold are perfectly clean. Took me half a day to clean up all the "mud". I suspect that automatic gearbox may have something to do with it.
@@petkozhivkov4271 if it's the auto gearbox, you'd probably get a raise in revs without power (like car going into neutral, a rev then it re engaged). Is it worse when car/transmission is hot? If so then yes could be the autobox fluid needs changing. I had mine done a year ago and it definitely improves the gear changes as they became smoother.
The problem is trying to track down your exact issue without doing expensive jobs to solve it. Good luck, hopefully you'll catch a fault code or be able to spot something they helps narrow it down
It actually happens when the car is cold and weather is hot. The gearbox fluid has been changed.
I’d be looking at the MAP sensor on the intake manifold. My 2.0 5-cyl D4 V70 occasionally has a hiccup at part throttle when cold but never brings up an error code. It’s had 3 MAP sensors over its 187,000 miles. Whenever I change them it gets rid of the problem for a good while (2-3 years) but it always comes back so I’m treating them as a consumable. Bosch ones are only £40 from my local motor factor. And it’s literally a 5 minute job to change it (unlike the one in this video) so no big deal to change it. It’s double that cost just to get a Volvo agent to read the code, so it might be worth a gamble just changing it anyway.