FlexPVC® Present The Correct Way To Make A PVC Glue Joint So You Never Have A Leak
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Want leak free pvc glue joints and connections? In this video we show you how to get a perfect joint every time.
Also watch our most popular video, "How To Fix A Leak In PVC Pipe" (for free):
• FlexPVC® - How To Fix ...
You sir may be the only person I'd trust to glue my pvc joints. Well said, and easy to understand demonstration regarding proper attachment of pvc fittings.
Thanks much! :-)
Thank you so much for posting this 🙏🙏🙏. I don’t know what I would do without RUclips.
Thanks. Glad we could help. :-)
The best tutorial on cementing PVC
Excellent advice/video. I needed a quick review to use this weekend and I appreciate your demonstration.
Glad to help! :-)
Dang, another Master Class.
Great channel
If possible always remember to twist pipe after connection is made. This is important and is part of the pvc glue instructions. Good information Sir. Thank you.
That is incorrect for Flexible PVC pipe. You should never twist flexible pipe. The general rule has been a twist for rigid pipe and that's okay, but it's not for flexible pipe. There is a reason for it, I'll have to make another video explaining why.
Thanks very much for the video. The drawings helped explain a lot!
Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. :-)
Thank you so much
That was very informative. Now I understand the need for primer if I make a permanent joint.
However, I have a somewhat unusual application for PVC pipes and fittings, where they need to be able to hold up running water through it at 30 PSI or less, but I need the pipe joints to be only SEMI-permanent, so they can be disassembled and re-assembled for repairs. What's the best product to make such a joint?
if you are using IPS pipe size (sch 40/80, etc) then there really isnt an option for you. If you are using CTS pipe size 1/2", 3/4" and maybe 1" there are some press in fittings that could do this for you. Give us a call (monday) or email (anytime) and let us know and we'll help you out. 🙂
The website is amazing and informative as are these videos. Thank you very much for the time and energy you've put into both. I will be purchasing from you as soon as I figure out what I'm doing! I've got big plans lol
You are welcome! Glad we could help. :-)
You are welcome. :-)
You need to twist it, quarter turn or more after you put the pieces together and then hold for a few seconds (depending on glue type) to make sure the joint doesn't back out. The spinning of the pipe distributes the glue more evenly.
That is true for rigid pipe yes. But for flexible pipe that is not true. You should just push the pipe in and hold. No twisting flexible pipe.
there was no mention of deburring or Chamfering is that required for flex pvc?
Hi, Eric. I recently watched several of your youtube videos and have learned so much. For 20+ years I did not know what I was doing, letting my primer dry and sanding my pipe connections. Lucky I have not had more leaks. I just ordered some fittings and pipe dope from you today. GREAT VIDEOS!!!
Some pool tech videos show disassembling old pvc joints using heat in order to reuse connections, especially where tight and it would be much work to replace everything. Your thoughts???
Yes, I've used heat to remove pipe from a fitting. It works. I will try to make a video showing how I do it. Thanks for the comments and suggestion. :-)
All the ones we sell are rated for plastic fittings.
Thanks man, great video and u showed me a few things I definitely needed to do different. Right on!
Hello Eri, please I need help. I have a leak in my pool return pipe, which is a hard flexible pvc, can I follow the same instructions ?? Please I hope you can help me. Thank for sharing your knowledge with us.
Yes. Thank you. 🙂
Interesting information! With the many years of experience you have with PVC pipe, I'm curious to know how flexible 4'' PVC pipe is. The reason I ask is, because I'm lifting the floor in a house about 2'' and the septic pipe is on the side I'm lifting. Another question, if I need to cut the pipe and rebuild it. Can it be cut at the elbow where it is glued and a new elbow glued in?
Hello,
4" flexible pipe has a min. bend radius of 28" (see flexpvc.com/Reference/FlexiblePVCPipeSpecs.shtml) but you'd need machinery to bend it that tight. A typical person could take an 8' long piece and bend into a U shape without too much trouble.
Flexible pvc pipe glues into fittings, not the other way around. If you cut it flush with the elbow you'll have to replace the elbow. We do have some inside pipe couples that would work in drainage, but not pressure situations.
Please email us via our website (top of the page, just to the right of the phone no. ) and we can answer that way. Or you can call 888 782 3539 from 10am to 4pm M-F to talk with us.
Thank you for the questions.
The HVAC people put in PVC for the exhaust outside and used the primer too far down
( purple color) and did not get it sealed so it drips water condensation. They needed bigger daubers for 4 inch pipe.
See our video #3 at flexpvc.com/TechArticles/FlexPVCVidList.shtml on how to fix that leak. Costs you almost nothing but a little time.
Thank-you, I did. Tricky being attached to the furnace and outside.
Fantastic
what kind of glue do you use?
Any of the major brands. You can find our glue page here: pvcglue.com Thanks!
Thanks for theses helpful videos. Should we sand paper pipe/fittings before primer-glue, I was told to sand but it seems wasteful and time consuming. (mostly 2'' swimming pool plumbing)
I've never sanded a piece of pipe unless it deformed. There is no benefit to sanding perfectly good pipe.
Sounds good to me. The guy said that there is a "coating" from the manufacturer that you need to take off but isnt that what the primer does?
@@Latinos4Trump Yes. Also that coating is just the release agent.
Great video thanks. Is it necessary to clean dirt or dust off the fittings or give them a light sanding so they are clean?
Yes, I clean off dirt and dust. I don't ever sand the pipe unless it's damaged or very old pipe that has swelled. Sanding removes material at the critical point. Sanding came from the plumbers who were soldiering copper tube. Correct for copper, not correct for pvc. :-)
Large junk yes. I wipe it if it's got mud, or grease, etc.
I have a place with an 8 ft octagonal in-ground spa. It was leaking. I removed the concrete and dug down. The 1.5 I/D flexible pipes were severely kinked in numerous places. It is the most atrocious bit of plumbing I have ever seen. I would like to keep as many air-water mixers/ jets as possible. For most of the pipes I can cut the flexible pipes at two inches from the jets and add a straight coupling. The jets are in the middle of the octagon side. This means I need to insert 28 inch pipe sections into two couplings at 45 degrees to each other. My question... will I be able to bend a 28" section of EZ-Flow 1.5 into an "S" shape to accomplish this. If so - put me down for a 50 ft roll.
ps Excellent video, much enjoyed.
pps. Does warming the pipe in the Florida sun make it easier to bend?
Hello,
I'll try to answer this here. If you still need help, please call us at 888 782 3539 or use the "contact" us link on our website.
Will the EZ Flow (or any) flexible pvc pipe in 1.5" x 28" long bend into an S shape? Yes, but it will be a very mild S. NOT much of a curve to it. I can't see your pool, but based on what you say, I would use flexible pvc pipe with 45 degree wyes (475-015 on our site) and then run a line "around" the pool and branch off to get to each jet. That way you can make the pipe as long as you need it. You can also use Tees, but I think the wyes will work better for you.
YES, very much, the warmer the weather the easier it is to bend and shape. You can even use a heat gun (CAREFULLY) to warm up the pipe and it'll make it much more pliable.
If you still need help, please use the contact us link on our website and send some pictures. Or post a video here on youtube and we'll have a look. Thanks for the questions. :-)
Thank for the prompt answer. Re-reading my question it didn't make as much sense as I intended. What I MEANT to say is I have embedded jets in the spa, which I would rather not remove - just to avoid the can-of-worms syndrome. I want to cut out the existing flexible pipe leaving two inches at ended to which I can glue straight couplings. I want a new single piece of EX-Flex which will be glued to one coupling. It will then bend 45 degrees round the outside of the tub to the other coupling. I will have to 'distort' the pipe to slot it into this other coupling. All I wanted to know is the pipe had enough flexibility to make this easy allowing for the fact that the glue sets very quickly. From what I have now seen this doesn't appear to be a problem.
There are 16 such pipes to replace and I thought it a good idea to replace all of them at the same time inluding any not leaking.
Thank you again.
You will need to let the glue dry 24 hours before putting any stress on the joint.
So was he a ghost this whole time? Is that why he faded away at the end?
Here is what i want to do...i have 2" pvc,,with coupling on end,,now i want to install flex pvc to that,,and continue to my salt generator which i need a 2" union,nut and tailpiece...then continue to my pool heat pump inlet and outlet unions...are all the fittings same ? and ok to use on FLEX pvc? andy special glues? or same process and parts as pvc sch 40 ? thanks..i hope i explained that,,haha...thanks....
Flexible pvc pipe glues directly into standard fittings just like regular pvc pipe with standard glue and primer.
Yes our flexible pvc pipe has a NSF 50 rating for swimming pool use (among other uses.) Thanks
thank you ..have a great day.
But how do you glue white flex pvc and type of glue ?
All pvc is glued with primer and cement. The primer softens the pvc and the cement makes the bond. For the cement, see flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Glue-Cement, for the primer see flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Glue-Primer
(you will need to scroll down.)
There are roughly 4 kinds of cement. Clear, gray, blue and green, but the colors are more of a tradition than anything scientific. Gray is the cheapest. Clear is the next, Blue is the most expensive. Green is transition glue and it's meant to bond ABS to PVC for drainage joints (not pressure.) It's unacceptable for flexible pvc pipe. The gray is also not recommended, it's bond does not work well with flexible pvc pipe.
We no longer list brands any more because during the lockdowns it was too hard to keep certain brands in stock. But all the ones we sell are major brands: Oatey, Weldon, Uniweld, Christys, Pool Tite, etc.
The blue glue is for wet situations. It's the most aggressive and and will cure even in damp/wet environments. The clear is best for all around use but your pipes need to be clean and dry.
Clear is used in "factory" or controlled environments like people who make Spas, Whirlpool Baths, etc. Blue is best for field work where you can't control the environment.
@@FlexPVC never use primer it actually weakens bond and that why they sell it so you keep buying it
@@myviews469 LOL. I can tell you hundreds of stories of people who did just what you said and spent thousands of dollars redoing their systems. I can tell you about a blueberry farmer out in California who a hired a crew who believed as you did. He spend $50K to redo his entire irrigation system. I"ve been doing this for almost 50 years. Use the primer. It's cheap and makes the proper glue joint. If you don't believe me, call Uniweld, Christys, Oatey, IPS, United Chemical, Rectorseal, and as them about not using primer. They will laugh in your face. Just try to do a residential or commercial job that required pvc plumbing and an inspection and try not to use the purple primer and you'll be redoing all of it.
SERIOUSLY??? Aren't you supposed to twist it in about a quarter inch and then hold it together for 10 - 30 seconds till it dries??? That is a pretty important point if you don't want a crap joint.
No, not with flexible pipe. You should not twist. Rigid pipe is okay with twisting a little, but flexible. Thanks for the question.
Half turn too
Your buildup begs for an actual demonstration using primer and glue.
You made no mention of exerting enough pressure to "bottom out" the pipe in the fitting.
I've had to redo joints because I did not insert the pipe quickly or hard enough before the glue drying made it almost impossible to get the pipe in far enough. You might consider the importance of these tidbits for the inexperienced.
You don't mention letting the primer dry or not before applying the glue. Which do you recommend?
+Roger Thornhill Hello Roger. Last questions first. No you do not let the primer dry before applying the glue. The primer is a chase. It pulls the glue with it, put another way, it leads the glue into the pvc material. There is another video I need to make to show the difference between gluing rigid PVC and flexible pvc pipe. There are a few differences. One if them is the amount of pressure used to push in the pipe. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll include them in the next video.
+Flexpvc Just noting that the instructions on my can of Oatey primer definitely say to apply the solvent cement while the primer is wet. Wonder why.
+Roger Thornhill Sorry. I misread your response. I saw another video that said to let the primer dry. Got yours and his mixed up.
That's cool. Thanks. :-)
This info is clearly from someone who knows their shit.