a tip about the smart object... you can right click the smart object and click 'edit smart obj.'... it opens in a new window, you can add layers and adjustments within that new window, save and close it and it will save as the original smart object so you can go back into it
I like to think of it as smart image inception... you could have a smart image in that new window, and edit that in a second new window xD if you really wanted to......
Thanks Rob. I echo what everyone said about you and your videos. Didn't know about saving as a smart object in Camera raw. Looking forward to the upcoming live.
Hi Rob! Thank you for sharing your knowledge about infrared photography. I would be interested to know more about "how to edit infrared photos with Capture One, unconverted camera with 720nm filter".
You can sometimes avoid colour fringe if you adjust the hue/saturation bar (below hue, saturation and brightness) after you've picked a colour with the select tool. And curves can also sometimes be a good colour balance tool, by using the hand picker in the upper left corner. Choose each channel one by one and with the hand picker you click and hold on an area you want more (move up) or less (move down) of.
Thank you for sharing! I didn't want too get to deep into color fringing, since this video was already getting long. I'm thinking about doing a video that just addresses color fringing and will explore these options. Thanks!
Great video brother .. I was hoping to do a I think you mentioned 65.00 lesson .. if it’s more that’s fine … I’m doing well with your tutorials, but could definitely use your help with a better understanding and ability to effect color separation a little better
Will phones get an infrared feature soon?? It’s such a great method, you can really maximize the colors. We’ve been using similar things for outer space, but I never thought of this.
It may depend on your sensor and/or the filter you are using. When I try Green output channel settings of R=100, G=0, B=100, the greens are completely blown out. R=50, G=0, B=50 produces a result similar to, but not exactly the same as Invert. Thanks for the tip!
@@robshea My complete settings for the channel mixer looking like this: Red Channel R:0 G:0 B:100 Green Channel R:100 G:-100 (important -100) B:100 Blue Channel R:100 G:0 B:0 It gives you yellow-ish/white leafs and a blue sky. It is important that it is Green -100 in the green channel. Otherwise you have a very strong green cast. ;)
In my experience you don’t even need to mess with the red channel just swap blue and green. This is a step most people don’t do but I find if you have your WB set correctly it will give an almost perfect end result without having to mess with hue.
@@robshea yea its a Hoya 67mm R72 screw in. I have had the thought that it might be a light bleed but it happens at random times where it wouldt make sense. I can take a picture in bright sunlight and not get the lines but go into the shadow and they overtake the picture
Hey that was great. But I have had some problems with the fringeing. I use many different filters in a full converted Canon EOS 5 DRS 51MP full frame camera. Im not a very advanced Photoshop user, but have played around with the editing enough to see this problem come up with my color IR images. Since you just mentioned in this video but didn't dive in to it I would love some guidance with it. Any links directed in that direction or instructions to try would be great.
Fringing is a challenge due to the extreme color manipulation that we do in IR. The best way to avoid it is to minimize the amount of hue shift that occurs after a color swap. The best way to do this is to use a color swap method that gets as close as possible to the desired colors you seek. I would try the different methods: Hue, Invert Channel Mixer, Channel Mixer with green shift, etc. I was hoping that the new Point Color feature in LR and CR would help, it has not been as helpful as I would like.
a tip about the smart object... you can right click the smart object and click 'edit smart obj.'... it opens in a new window, you can add layers and adjustments within that new window, save and close it and it will save as the original smart object so you can go back into it
I like to think of it as smart image inception... you could have a smart image in that new window, and edit that in a second new window xD if you really wanted to......
Thanks Rob. I echo what everyone said about you and your videos. Didn't know about saving as a smart object in Camera raw. Looking forward to the upcoming live.
As usual, fantastic job, Rob. I continue to believe your tutorials on NIR photography are the best on RUclips. Please keep them coming.
Invert and set blend mode to Color. Wow. So easy! I get great results, thank you.
Excellent video Rob. Thanks for updating your earlier videos, as the software changes.
Excellent tutorial! Can’t wait to get home and work this out some of mine.
Superb, just makes it so much easier and quicker to edit these files. Thanks.
Great tip about color balance adding contrast!
A very good instructional video; thanks for sharing. One of the best content of this type on the web!
I must admit, I've known some of the stuff before, but you really presented that well, thank You!
Hi Rob! Thank you for sharing your knowledge about infrared photography. I would be interested to know more about "how to edit infrared photos with Capture One, unconverted camera with 720nm filter".
The color swapping process for Capture One should be similar to what I covered in this video: ruclips.net/video/5yrQisDwp9A/видео.html
Another great video thanks Rob
This has helped immensely. Thank you.
Thanks so much! amazing tips and advice!! :D
Many thanks indeed Rob, I never knew you could do that :-)
Excellent video!
You can do the "color balance" changes that you made (blue to shadows; yellow to highlights) by using the Color Grading tool in Lightroom.
Absolutely, and certainly a step up from the old Split Toning tools.
You can sometimes avoid colour fringe if you adjust the hue/saturation bar (below hue, saturation and brightness) after you've picked a colour with the select tool.
And curves can also sometimes be a good colour balance tool, by using the hand picker in the upper left corner. Choose each channel one by one and with the hand picker you click and hold on an area you want more (move up) or less (move down) of.
Thank you for sharing! I didn't want too get to deep into color fringing, since this video was already getting long. I'm thinking about doing a video that just addresses color fringing and will explore these options. Thanks!
@@robshea yea personally i mostly stay within the yellow to reddish hues. That generally avoid lot of colour fringing from what I noticed
Great video brother .. I was hoping to do a I think you mentioned 65.00 lesson .. if it’s more that’s fine … I’m doing well with your tutorials, but could definitely use your help with a better understanding and ability to effect color separation a little better
You can book a session here: 590.red/coach
Thank you very much!
Brilliant, many thanks.
So, can’t find the downloads
Bob.
Will phones get an infrared feature soon?? It’s such a great method, you can really maximize the colors. We’ve been using similar things for outer space, but I never thought of this.
Here is a video with details on how to shoot IR on a mobile phone: ruclips.net/video/4SqtnlPX0RU/видео.html
You can also swap the green channel with R=100, B=100, G=-100 in addition to Red/Blue swap. It gives you a similar result, like the invert method.
It may depend on your sensor and/or the filter you are using. When I try Green output channel settings of R=100, G=0, B=100, the greens are completely blown out. R=50, G=0, B=50 produces a result similar to, but not exactly the same as Invert. Thanks for the tip!
@@robshea My complete settings for the channel mixer looking like this:
Red Channel
R:0
G:0
B:100
Green Channel
R:100
G:-100 (important -100)
B:100
Blue Channel
R:100
G:0
B:0
It gives you yellow-ish/white leafs and a blue sky. It is important that it is Green -100 in the green channel. Otherwise you have a very strong green cast. ;)
In my experience you don’t even need to mess with the red channel just swap blue and green. This is a step most people don’t do but I find if you have your WB set correctly it will give an almost perfect end result without having to mess with hue.
@@haroldcarlson2775 thank you for the input. I'll test that out. Never thought on that. 👍
@@70dega31 Excellent! I will do some testing. Might make for a good comparison video.
Boss can I edit on Android phone ? Because I buy the filter and don't have a pc to edit just smartphone
You can edit in Lightroom Mobile on Android.
@@robshea how can you make a video edit on smartphone ?🙏
@@daus.ring1999 I've made a video about editing infrared on a mobile phone here: ruclips.net/video/4SqtnlPX0RU/видео.html
When i edit my infared photos green and blue lines shows up and i dont know why. Any ideas?
Could you post an example somewhere and share the link? Or you can send me an example to 590.red/share
@@robshea Hey thanks for the responds. I have shared a photo i took with you where you can see the green and blue lines👍
@@robshea i.imgur.com/yaHX5g6.jpg
Picture of grass
@@trold8424 This looks like a light leak or a bad filter. What kind of filter are you using? Is it a circular screw-in filter?
@@robshea yea its a Hoya 67mm R72 screw in. I have had the thought that it might be a light bleed but it happens at random times where it wouldt make sense. I can take a picture in bright sunlight and not get the lines but go into the shadow and they overtake the picture
Hey that was great. But I have had some problems with the fringeing. I use many different filters in a full converted Canon EOS 5 DRS 51MP full frame camera. Im not a very advanced Photoshop user, but have played around with the editing enough to see this problem come up with my color IR images. Since you just mentioned in this video but didn't dive in to it I would love some guidance with it. Any links directed in that direction or instructions to try would be great.
Fringing is a challenge due to the extreme color manipulation that we do in IR. The best way to avoid it is to minimize the amount of hue shift that occurs after a color swap. The best way to do this is to use a color swap method that gets as close as possible to the desired colors you seek. I would try the different methods: Hue, Invert Channel Mixer, Channel Mixer with green shift, etc. I was hoping that the new Point Color feature in LR and CR would help, it has not been as helpful as I would like.