@@cocoloco7295 its all about the adventure to come. One stage in the process will be replaced by a new and maybe even better process. And Mads being Mads, im sure he'll keep the channel going 🥰 it'll be cool.
Hi Mads, I want to tell you that Aircraft wire bought on a full roll is great value for money. Ok having said that, aircraft standard wire is copper, silver tinned and covered in a Teflon sheath. Its very strong, light but most of all the voltage drop is minimal and perfect for modern yachts with LED's, the wire lasts forever and takes up very little space in the ducting. Unfortunately it only come in white, that's okay, just colour code the ends and label them, easy. I don't know why more people are using it. My boat is a very wet boat and I don't have any problems anymore.
Madds. I agree with Luke he is the best plus he will show you how do repairs an more.Plus his Hardware is awesome and tuff. Don’t be afraid he Dam Good what he Does and please read over what he said to you!. I like to throw in something that make cost a little more but try Kevlar rope and maybe DuPont could help you a little on Price. Hope you add a stripe too the Hull. Well take Care . Greg of USA.
At first I thought your channel was kind of uninteresting but after watching you since you started working on Athena, well it’s been a joy. I really like you. I think you are going to have the time of your life when you get to sailing.
Hi Mads. Can't help but think a 33kg Rocna is somewhat overkill. We have four 45' boats that we charter out here on the west coast of Scotland and all have the 25kg Rocnas fitted. So far as we are aware none of them have ever dragged once properly set - in fact we also had a 42' boat which had the windlass and anchor locker pullet out during one blow! The 33kg unit will just put greater strain on your windlass and deck gear (one of our 45'boats is an Amel, ie a 'proper' displacement cruising boat) I'd also recommend staying with relatively standard standing rigging. Synthetic has its place but, for ease of getting it repaired around the world, conventional is much simpler.
Hi Mads! Watching your channel is a wonderful Zen-like experience! Great work. Funny after a lifetime of cruising including 18 Crossings in and out of New Zealand, Southern Ocean Etc and countless refits on super yachts, that I'm watching someone else work on their boat! The 65 pound anchor and necessary chain is a storm set up for your boat, you may want to reconsider putting it at the pointy end! You can save money and do all the rigging yourself with wire and mechanical fittings even with the Mast up!. Keep up the great work!
Mads that expansion tank looks a bit crazed. Plastic may be more brittle than when new. Engine vibration may cause fractures or failure of the mounting and that would be a problem you dont want! See other comment about bad placement and using a bulkhead mount which solves the likelihood of vibration fatigue in the old plastic.
I'm doing my own standing rigging on my 37' O'Day! DIY for sure!!! Use Sta-lok fittings and buy the cable in bulk with one extra length for mistakes. It's not hard at all and you'll save a freaking ton
I couldn't help thinking Mads was happy to nick the core so there was another DIY task to add to the list! Looking great, can't wait to see her splashed in 2023 :)
Hi Mads. The cable mounting blocks are different because your gearbox and sail drive are electrically isolated from the engine. You need to ensure that the centre core of the gearbox shift cable (and the outer) are isolated from the shift lever and outer retaining bracket on the gearbox. It's in the exploded drawing for the lever assembly. FAILURE TO DO THIS GIVES AN ELECTRICAL PATH between the engine negative and the saildrive via the control cables!!!!!!! Basically; Ooops no anode or saildrive very quickly. The coolant header tank is better off the engine for two reasons. 1. The vibration from the engine shakes the tank until the tapered mounting falls apart. But, more importantly: 2. The heat exchanger is quite high on your engine and the header tank low. This can cause air or lack of coolant in the heat exchanger when the boat is healed. Commercial installations of this engine have the coolant header 300mm+ above the heat exchanger and remote to the engine to avoid both these issues. We (I) carried out this mod from new on our engine, and of course you can then use a standard hose and carry spare of it without the very, very expensive VP shaped hose. Hope this has helped, if so how about a plug for our little chanel where we cover many of the issues above and many more. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Contacting B&G or Garmin to get new electronics or a MASSIVE discount on the end of last year's line is pretty much what ALL the other RUclipsrs are getting as a deal. Please look into it to save money as I love Athena and your channel. Also, have you decided on the prop yet? Even the prop can get a massive discount as you will pretty much not only dedicate an episode to it with the install but you'll be getting footage on it throughout and in cleaning barnies so that's another big win for you. Keep up the great work and I'm sharing your channel with a LOT of other people because I'm positive you should have more than 200 Subscribers! My new mission :") Cheers from Canada
@iBiana Doubt Ya I hear him saying it a LOT over the years and it always makes me laugh as I watch because this is like a class to me. I'm leaving for Mexico to settle in for a bit and search for the boat down there so... acquisition of some parts will be considered both those words LOL. I'll check out AvE and never forgive you for it.
Mads, today is Tuesday and I am hoping you were able to paint. You certainly have drier weather than us right now as I sit here waiting for a hurricane to come ashore and move on. We set two anchors on our tub and shes still riding fine even though the windage has her sailing on her anchor a bit. We pulled the jib down so as long as she doesn't drag and the cover stays on the main I think shell be fine. We cant wait for Athena to be splashed again!
Hi Mads, It would be great if you had a video on Rigging inspection... from a boat owner’s perspective, of course... I hate paying tons of $$$ to rigging inspectors to do a basic inspection. Anyway, you do such a great job on all your videos An I think the boat community, myself included, would appreciate something like that. Cheers and keep up the great work.
I'm a Rigger that works specifically with Dyneema. I rigged SV Lady Africa, made some parts and consulted for Tula's Endless Summer, and also helped S/V Zingaro sort out his rigging with some better solutions and Deadeyes. I recently rigged a 54 ft John Alden Ketch that had 22 Shrouds and Stays. Firstly, I noticed that the mast terminations on some of the bundled shrouds are T-fittings. There is only one piece of hardware currently made that I am aware of that adapts a T-fitting, its called a T-Bail. It only comes in one size and does not have any published strength data so I am hesitant to use them if I can't be sure that the hardware rated strength matches or exceeds the rated strength of the rigging. Otherwise, you'd have to replace the mast hardware and that adds to cost and labor. Besides that, you want to stick to wire for the forestay, Dyneema is not compatible with headsail furling foils. Otherwise, Dyneema saves a ton of weight aloft over wire and it will never corrode. On the price side it isn't significantly cheaper than wire and hardware changes can drive up that cost. Based on the quote you got for wire replacement (which is pretty outstanding compared to any US based Rigger) I would stick with wire if cost is a primary factor. If you are interested in Dyneema's performance attributes, at least for a cost comparison, I'd be glad to build you a quote. Shoot me a message here or via Facebook, just search for my Kraken Structures page.
I saw your work on Sailing Lady Africa. It looked amazing but isn't Dyneema sensitive to temperature changes? As in retensioning the rig a few times a year?
@@bobadam7021 That factor has been exaggerated, but it is partially true. It takes very extreme temperature swings, like an early summer morning in Maine that is below 60 but it gets to over 90 by 3pm. The tensioning in the first year, if done right, isn't repeated in subsequent years.
I saw your work on SLA, and had looked at synthetic rigging myself, but the sheer size/bulk of it (since it's sized for creep) plus a protective uv cover (I'm in the tropics now), seemed prohibitive, considering my rigging is already 8mm anyway. My cost was actually similar to what Mads was quoted. I had mine mad up and replaced by Almerimar Marine in Spain. The boat is Prout Snowgoose 35.
Luke Just a hint buddy, if you want to draw attention to a reply you’ve made don’t use the @ symbol as it does NOT create a link in RUclips. Do what I did to draw your attention, to create a link via the three little dots, one of which says “reply”. Failing that you can also click the tiny “page” at the bottom of each comment, one of them should work.
I think what we like most is when you get new parts - especially because we're not paying for them, ha ha ha. Nothing like lots of sparkling new parts.
I know you are a Comp Sci/ IT guy but having worked in engineering departments for 40 years I can assure you that you have the "nomenclature" down pat!
I’m going to rig my Moody 36S with Dyneema SK78, already acquired, and reusing the T-fittings by welding a 3/8 stainless loop to them. The splicing will be done in the winter. Rigging Doctor has all Dyneema and can answer to the the challenges.
I would suggest going for the Rocna 25, it will be plenty! I am certain you have checked rocna recommendations (for50kts and poor holding) already but...just wanted to say :) You will notice the extra weight when the bow starts digging going downwind :)
You know, I don't generally like most DIY videos. Even boat refit videos tend to bore me and I scroll through them and lose interest. But when I found this channel several years ago, I've followed along closely and have seen every video up to the present. Mads, keep doing what you're doing. You have a very entertaining, real, and down to Earth way of presenting. Even "boring" stuff like sanding becomes entertaining to watch. And I can't wait to see your sailing videos. I figure they will be even more fun to watch. Now, back to the video with the cussing in Danish. I'm determined to learn how to do that.
Mads, as a final sanity check, do an online instant quotation at “Ratseys Yacht Rigging” they sell the raw materials, fittings or completed turn-key, quality materials, cheap if you do a DIY like for like replacement, cheers John
Have you considered a bowsprit for the anchor? You can get the anchor as far as you want from your hull. And you get a perfect mount point for a blister/spinnaker. Love your channel! Really nice job!
Hi Mads, just a quick one with the Duralac, while it does seal and prevent galvanic corrosion it is also a jointing compound so it will make removing the screw/bolt harder in the future, great for a locktite like effect but not so great for something temporary. I work on large Navy vessels and Tefgel or a similar teflon based product is what we use to prevent corrosion and also seizing of stainless steel bolts/fittings and it works really well. Love the channel, keep up the great work
I haven’t found the “locking” feature to be a problem, but what really annoys me is how quickly Duralac goes hard once the tin has been opened. For the cheapest Duralac around, google “Elise” in Denmark. A firm specialising in spares for Lotus Elise cars. Tefgel is great but so bloody expensive.
Mads, one comment on the bow roller: don't forget to take into consideration that you need room for the anchor to clear the pulpit when being dropped. Based on my experience, such a large anchor might in fact interfere with the pulpit while going down and up. Worth double checking it. In my case, I ended up extending the bow roller forward.
Instead of paying for that $80 hose consider mounting that expansion tank on the bulkhead, my engine cut a hole in the tank via the bracket. I resolved it by mounting the new tank on a near bulkhead and it’s been faithfully chugging along ever since
Dyneema Rigging. Mega strong, no more corrosion, diy able. Feels nice soft and cuddly on the hands compared to steel. Easy to carry extra rigging material to make changes or repairs while at sea. It’s something like 15x stronger than steel by weight. High abrasive, uv and cut resistance, I had it on my boat for 10 years before selling and it stayed beautiful.
Colligo Synthetic Rigging. I redid mine and very happy. I know you have done your chain plates but he also did never corrode Titanium chain plates for me.
@@billfromgermany hj bill, i have the dux rigging but havent stepped the mast or launched yet. hope happens this winter . btw the weight difference is amazing. the dux has been around long enough now that there is lots of data available.
Hey Mads, just binged your channel (from the start of Athena) and you nail it every time in your videos. Good job with everything so far, and keep the content coming. Real quick thought. I don't recall hearing you say if you plan on keeping the name of Athena or changing it. My thinking is that with all the "oh glorious" work you've done so far, there's not much of Athena even left. My top vote for a new name would be Spiffy for obvious reasons. A close second and third would be Gloria (for glorious) and Sandy (for sanding)..."Oh Glorious sanding." However it is, like you say your boat just thought I'd mention it. Keep up the good work Mads. It's very inspirational watching how you see a problem, and teach yourself through the solution. Gives me hope for my own future project. P.S. Here in the states we throw around the term "widget" to describe an unknown object ;)
Have you considered making your own rigging with Sta-Lok or similar fittings? I know that time is precious but the fix-it-yourself aspect should be right up your alley. There are three excellent videos on the process on the Drake Paragon channel.
As you approach the end of this humongous project, we hope you have the opportunity to deeply savor the sense of satisfaction you have earned. Your investment of $$$ and time boggles my small mind. Your discipline to consistently maintain superior level of craftsmanship and willingness to try new ideas and master new skills is outstanding. We have limited amount of time on this earth. Hope you soon are in position to begin enjoying what you have masterfully created. Good luck!
Mate, before you order your standing rigging have a good look at Sta Lok fittings. I just did my Catalina and love the system. Next time your rigging needs replacing all you replace is the cables, you keep your fittings. Love your work and wish you more sunshine Cheers Reiner Australia
SOrry Sorry Sorry, You are such a precise working guy, so it will not go in my mind that you mounted a very dirty expansiontank on the Volvo. For the rest I appreciate your video's. I love it. Let me guess about the leaking chain plate I think it is the double one I think its leaking between the plates maybe you should weld them together.
Be sure to check the clutch when you fire up the engine. If the cables aren't adjusted properly, your clutch can slip and it won't be long before you are replacing the clutch plates (which are not cheap). It shouldn't turn the prop at all when in neutral and when the transmission is engaged in forward or reverse it shouldn't slip at all.
Mads, if the weather doesn't give you a window before winter sets in, this might be a good time to bite the bullet and pay for a few days in a shed to get that last coat on, since it can really delay other things you want to finish.
Also, its much lighter. The less weight on the masts, the smoother the ride. Not to mention, you can carry enough dyneema on board to completely re-rig Athena two times over and barely add any significant weight. You can’t carry spare steel rigging. Just my two cents and two comments;)
Regarding riggers to contact, I would recommend getting a quote from Hansen & Hamacher in Vamdrup near Kolding. Very knowledgeable, great service and fair prices.
Im guessing its already been said, but i would not be a bad idea to look into Dyneema rigging. Way cheaper, stronger, and easily maintained. Athena is looking great!
As far as stainless wire rope standing rigging is concerned I wouldn't think of anything else. Rod is a major PITA when you have to remove the mast and carry it with you like when you need to go through the erie canal to get to the great lakes. It has a performance benefit, but isn't worth it if you aren't a performance sailor and racing. Dyneema is strong but fragile. Chafe is an issue. Make an error and your genoa sheets are rubbing on it all night in a storm somewhere in the middle if the Atlantic and didnt realize it and you are up the brown creek without a paddle really damn fast. I've seen boats drag down into other boats in an anchorage and get their shrouds tangled, have seen shrouds caught/snagged on overhangs and pilings in marinas too. It doesn't take much to damage fiber compared to steel. The last thing I want to worry about in the middle of a storm when some bozo with too small of an anchor or not enough scope is dragging into me is getting dismasted on top of everything else as our anchors, chains, lifelines, and shrouds are all tangling and we are getting blown into only god knows what to leward. Nope, I'll take good strong heavy-aloft wire rope. This is a cruising boat, we don't pretend to be a racer. We have Hayne swageless fittings. They aren't hard to redo with new cones inside. We have enough extra wire stored down below to completely redo the standing rigging when that time comes.
Love this channel and look forward to it every week. If you are modifying the anchor roller anyway, you might want to consider adding a ring at the end for an asymmetric spinnaker
As you are such a perfectionist I think it would be a good idea to clean the inside of the header tank of the coolant system. You will more clearly see the new coolant. Cheers Ian Langley New Zealand
Hi Maz If you going to use old expansion tank you can clean the inside with dish liquid water and half a cup of clean builders sand close openings and shake around it will look all spiffy ☺
since you're looking at estimates...check out the dyneema varients...(aka kevlar) it's lighter and stronger than that steel and does not rust....get the covered version and it's protected from UV as well.... Might also look at the Cape Horn autopilot system.....
For any of the longer shank anchors like the Rocna and Mantus, the issue I have experienced is that as the anchor dips down towards the water, the shank lifts up in the rear just like you depicted. Depending on the height of the cross-bars in the bow pulpit, that is where the shank tends to hit. You really need to have the bow pulpit back on as well, or at least on the boat in order to dry fit to ensure the shank will clear the crossbar as the rear lifts. I have an 82lb Mantus on my Hylas 46 which I absolutely love, but this is the same experience I have every time we anchor. Because the rear of the shank lifts up into the pulpit crossbar, I have to step on the chain the keep the rear "down" and flat until it finally clears said bar. Once it does I can let it go and fully deploy the anchor. It's a bit of gymnastics for sure. It happens on the way up as well since the shank is pointed 45 degrees into the air and I have to force it down manually to clear that bar. Enjoy!
Hello Mads. The weight of the anchor chain should stop the anchor flipping and hitting the hull when you release it. Appologies if you have had same thoughts from others but I have not read them all. Great project. Thanks.
Even though you have a fuel polishing system would you consider having two fuel filters in parallel as a backup? That enable you to switch over to a clean filter if the one in use has a problem. Very simple with the flick of the wrist.
Hi Mads, I strongly suggest to install a double racor in the engine room. As soon as you purchase diesel with biodiesel in it and you forget to add diesel additives, you risk diesel bug to build up in your tank, fuel lines, and racor filter. Then you can switch to the second racor and keep going to a place where you can clean your system. I speak from multiple experience, in the Mediterranean. I do not know how the biodiesel situation is in the Northern latitudes, though. Regards from Switzerland, Silvano
A 500-series Racor is rated at 60 gallons of flow per hour, which is 60x what this little Volvo green devil drinks. If the bug in the tank is so bad that the racor is plugging up to the point where it can not even flow at only 1gph then switching to another filter isn't going to help for very long -minutes at that point. Then, it too, will plug up as well.
I was always told when having standing rigging done, make sure you get fittings that allow you to turn them end-to-end every so often thus extending their life.
I think it is best that you are combining the double chainplate. But I bet you could have gotten away with it as it was with the butyl in there between them. The only caveat would have been to make the butyl section short enough so that if it did fail it wouldn't have much room to trap water up against the metal to contribute to crevice corrosion. Worst case is you get a very few tiny drips down below. I have bedded plexiglass glass portlights in aluminum frames where I could not find the proper rubber gasket (because the plexiglass replacement pane was thinner than the original unobtainium safety glass) and it worked just fine for years with no leaking, and that is with minimal continuing pressure on the butyl from the frame and the plexiglass part only held in by the butyl itself, only floating there in the frame. Butyl has wonderful self-healing properties as a sealant as long as movement is kept to an absolute minimum. The haters can call me names and say all sorts of BS but this is real world long-distance cruising experience, not armchair weekend warrior whatever taking. Credibility is a credibility does. As always, I can't wait for next week's video.
Bow roller dohicky = Roller Stemhead. Engine control do-dad = Morse control (although "Morse" is like "Hoover", a trade name that has become generic). Fine example of a dohicky = R-clip.
The do hickie is necessary because the thing a ma jig requires backup in case the whatcha call it loosens up. Make sure the thing-a-ma-bob is set to righty tighty, not lefty loosey.
Nominated for best drama series due to its gripping cliffhangers: "the third coat of painting" / the final countdown.
Don't forget oh glorious sanding
Right on 😂
And the Doo-Hicky...
Henning Croissant lol... lol...
This is one of the best sailing channels on RUclips despite the fact that there really hasn't been any sailing in the last few years.
Can't wait to see him go sailing.. I believe he tends to get seasick.. 😂😂
And the day he gets to go sailing we're going to miss the diy videos 😁
@@cocoloco7295 its all about the adventure to come. One stage in the process will be replaced by a new and maybe even better process. And Mads being Mads, im sure he'll keep the channel going 🥰 it'll be cool.
I agree. When/if he goes sailing, I will probably have to unsubscribe. (NOT)
It must feel awesome being so close to splashing
Hi Mads, I want to tell you that Aircraft wire bought on a full roll is great value for money. Ok having said that, aircraft standard wire is copper, silver tinned and covered in a Teflon sheath. Its very strong, light but most of all the voltage drop is minimal and perfect for modern yachts with LED's, the wire lasts forever and takes up very little space in the ducting. Unfortunately it only come in white, that's okay, just colour code the ends and label them, easy. I don't know why more people are using it. My boat is a very wet boat and I don't have any problems anymore.
The pivoting anchor roller is a great idea. Typically called self-launching, you are making a wise decision
Madds. I agree with Luke he is the best plus he will show you how do repairs an more.Plus his Hardware is awesome and tuff. Don’t be afraid he Dam Good what he Does and please read over what he said to you!. I like to throw in something that make cost a little more but try Kevlar rope and maybe DuPont could help you a little on Price. Hope you add a stripe too the Hull. Well take Care . Greg of USA.
At first I thought your channel was kind of uninteresting but after watching you since you started working on Athena, well it’s been a joy. I really like you. I think you are going to have the time of your life when you get to sailing.
Hi Mads.
Can't help but think a 33kg Rocna is somewhat overkill. We have four 45' boats that we charter out here on the west coast of Scotland and all have the 25kg Rocnas fitted. So far as we are aware none of them have ever dragged once properly set - in fact we also had a 42' boat which had the windlass and anchor locker pullet out during one blow! The 33kg unit will just put greater strain on your windlass and deck gear (one of our 45'boats is an Amel, ie a 'proper' displacement cruising boat)
I'd also recommend staying with relatively standard standing rigging. Synthetic has its place but, for ease of getting it repaired around the world, conventional is much simpler.
it is one of the laws of life, as soon as you stop looking for something and no longer desperately need it, then it turns up
Hi Mads! Watching your channel is a wonderful Zen-like experience! Great work. Funny after a lifetime of cruising including 18 Crossings in and out of New Zealand, Southern Ocean Etc and countless refits on super yachts, that I'm watching someone else work on their boat! The 65 pound anchor and necessary chain is a storm set up for your boat, you may want to reconsider putting it at the pointy end! You can save money and do all the rigging yourself with wire and mechanical fittings even with the Mast up!. Keep up the great work!
Mads that expansion tank looks a bit crazed. Plastic may be more brittle than when new. Engine vibration may cause fractures or failure of the mounting and that would be a problem you dont want! See other comment about bad placement and using a bulkhead mount which solves the likelihood of vibration fatigue in the old plastic.
Love the technological terms, that said you also read a lot and get it done correctly more often than not.
Keep it up.
You always find what you're looking for, a little while after you buy new ones.
I call this “putting something in a safe place”
I'm doing my own standing rigging on my 37' O'Day! DIY for sure!!! Use Sta-lok fittings and buy the cable in bulk with one extra length for mistakes. It's not hard at all and you'll save a freaking ton
I couldn't help thinking Mads was happy to nick the core so there was another DIY task to add to the list! Looking great, can't wait to see her splashed in 2023 :)
Hi Mads. The cable mounting blocks are different because your gearbox and sail drive are electrically isolated from the engine. You need to ensure that the centre core of the gearbox shift cable (and the outer) are isolated from the shift lever and outer retaining bracket on the gearbox. It's in the exploded drawing for the lever assembly. FAILURE TO DO THIS GIVES AN ELECTRICAL PATH between the engine negative and the saildrive via the control cables!!!!!!! Basically; Ooops no anode or saildrive very quickly. The coolant header tank is better off the engine for two reasons. 1. The vibration from the engine shakes the tank until the tapered mounting falls apart. But, more importantly: 2. The heat exchanger is quite high on your engine and the header tank low. This can cause air or lack of coolant in the heat exchanger when the boat is healed. Commercial installations of this engine have the coolant header 300mm+ above the heat exchanger and remote to the engine to avoid both these issues. We (I) carried out this mod from new on our engine, and of course you can then use a standard hose and carry spare of it without the very, very expensive VP shaped hose. Hope this has helped, if so how about a plug for our little chanel where we cover many of the issues above and many more. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
SV Impavidus Bang on good advice.👍
@@normanboyes4983 Hi Norman, did not see you in the corner with a pint 😉Thank you mate. Would you like another? Same again?
SV Impavidus 👍🍺
👍 same as electrical golf carts. Saw one that had melted the foot throttle cable from a poor ground.
As water, it WILL find its easiest path.
Wow Dude that’s a great job! And a great heads up!! I will be sure to check out your channel!
This channel makes me happy for reasons I dont fully understand! Athena is a marvel.
Contacting B&G or Garmin to get new electronics or a MASSIVE discount on the end of last year's line is pretty much what ALL the other RUclipsrs are getting as a deal. Please look into it to save money as I love Athena and your channel. Also, have you decided on the prop yet? Even the prop can get a massive discount as you will pretty much not only dedicate an episode to it with the install but you'll be getting footage on it throughout and in cleaning barnies so that's another big win for you. Keep up the great work and I'm sharing your channel with a LOT of other people because I'm positive you should have more than 200 Subscribers! My new mission :") Cheers from Canada
Additional nautical terms to impress my friends with; doohickie, doodad, thingamajig,...thank you Mads.
He's forgotten "gronicle (american spelling) or "ironical"
? Are those ALL SCRABBLE approved? 😉
@iBiana Doubt OMG That made me laugh a little too loud! Well done!!!
@iBiana Doubt Ya I hear him saying it a LOT over the years and it always makes me laugh as I watch because this is like a class to me. I'm leaving for Mexico to settle in for a bit and search for the boat down there so... acquisition of some parts will be considered both those words LOL. I'll check out AvE and never forgive you for it.
When you can't think of the right word: a "who's your daddy?"". Pronounce slightly ironically
My gawd mon.
You are just SCREAMING towards the Finnish line !
Mads, today is Tuesday and I am hoping you were able to paint. You certainly have drier weather than us right now as I sit here waiting for a hurricane to come ashore and move on. We set two anchors on our tub and shes still riding fine even though the windage has her sailing on her anchor a bit. We pulled the jib down so as long as she doesn't drag and the cover stays on the main I think shell be fine. We cant wait for Athena to be splashed again!
A 90 degree pex fitting might save you a little money on a special hose from Volvo. Looks like you could point it right to the engine.
Hi Mads,
It would be great if you had a video on Rigging inspection... from a boat owner’s perspective, of course... I hate paying tons of $$$ to rigging inspectors to do a basic inspection.
Anyway, you do such a great job on all your videos An I think the boat community, myself included, would appreciate something like that.
Cheers and keep up the great work.
Sunday is complete at last thanks Mads
I'm a Rigger that works specifically with Dyneema. I rigged SV Lady Africa, made some parts and consulted for Tula's Endless Summer, and also helped S/V Zingaro sort out his rigging with some better solutions and Deadeyes. I recently rigged a 54 ft John Alden Ketch that had 22 Shrouds and Stays. Firstly, I noticed that the mast terminations on some of the bundled shrouds are T-fittings. There is only one piece of hardware currently made that I am aware of that adapts a T-fitting, its called a T-Bail. It only comes in one size and does not have any published strength data so I am hesitant to use them if I can't be sure that the hardware rated strength matches or exceeds the rated strength of the rigging. Otherwise, you'd have to replace the mast hardware and that adds to cost and labor. Besides that, you want to stick to wire for the forestay, Dyneema is not compatible with headsail furling foils. Otherwise, Dyneema saves a ton of weight aloft over wire and it will never corrode. On the price side it isn't significantly cheaper than wire and hardware changes can drive up that cost. Based on the quote you got for wire replacement (which is pretty outstanding compared to any US based Rigger) I would stick with wire if cost is a primary factor. If you are interested in Dyneema's performance attributes, at least for a cost comparison, I'd be glad to build you a quote. Shoot me a message here or via Facebook, just search for my Kraken Structures page.
I saw your work on Sailing Lady Africa. It looked amazing but isn't Dyneema sensitive to temperature changes? As in retensioning the rig a few times a year?
@@bobadam7021 That factor has been exaggerated, but it is partially true. It takes very extreme temperature swings, like an early summer morning in Maine that is below 60 but it gets to over 90 by 3pm. The tensioning in the first year, if done right, isn't repeated in subsequent years.
Luke is there any more videos of your work?
I saw your work on SLA, and had looked at synthetic rigging myself, but the sheer size/bulk of it (since it's sized for creep) plus a protective uv cover (I'm in the tropics now), seemed prohibitive, considering my rigging is already 8mm anyway. My cost was actually similar to what Mads was quoted. I had mine mad up and replaced by Almerimar Marine in Spain. The boat is Prout Snowgoose 35.
Luke Just a hint buddy, if you want to draw attention to a reply you’ve made don’t use the @ symbol as it does NOT create a link in RUclips. Do what I did to draw your attention, to create a link via the three little dots, one of which says “reply”. Failing that you can also click the tiny “page” at the bottom of each comment, one of them should work.
I think what we like most is when you get new parts - especially because we're not paying for them, ha ha ha.
Nothing like lots of sparkling new parts.
I know you are a Comp Sci/ IT guy but having worked in engineering departments for 40 years I can assure you that you have the "nomenclature" down pat!
I’m going to rig my Moody 36S with Dyneema SK78, already acquired, and reusing the T-fittings by welding a 3/8 stainless loop to them. The splicing will be done in the winter. Rigging Doctor has all Dyneema and can answer to the the challenges.
I’m glad you showed that throttle lever, I’ve been planning to buy the same exact one.
Everytime I get ready to cut my yard, one of your awesome videos pops up and I must watch. One good excuse to put yard work off for a bit.
I would suggest going for the Rocna 25, it will be plenty! I am certain you have checked rocna recommendations (for50kts and poor holding) already but...just wanted to say :) You will notice the extra weight when the bow starts digging going downwind :)
You know, I don't generally like most DIY videos. Even boat refit videos tend to bore me and I scroll through them and lose interest. But when I found this channel several years ago, I've followed along closely and have seen every video up to the present.
Mads, keep doing what you're doing. You have a very entertaining, real, and down to Earth way of presenting. Even "boring" stuff like sanding becomes entertaining to watch. And I can't wait to see your sailing videos. I figure they will be even more fun to watch.
Now, back to the video with the cussing in Danish. I'm determined to learn how to do that.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :)
Jimmy Green Marine in the UK. Very good service. Will ship abroad as well.
Mads, as a final sanity check, do an online instant quotation at “Ratseys Yacht Rigging” they sell the raw materials, fittings or completed turn-key, quality materials, cheap if you do a DIY like for like replacement, cheers John
Good luck for the final coat
Have you considered a bowsprit for the anchor? You can get the anchor as far as you want from your hull. And you get a perfect mount point for a blister/spinnaker.
Love your channel! Really nice job!
Hi Mads, just a quick one with the Duralac, while it does seal and prevent galvanic corrosion it is also a jointing compound so it will make removing the screw/bolt harder in the future, great for a locktite like effect but not so great for something temporary. I work on large Navy vessels and Tefgel or a similar teflon based product is what we use to prevent corrosion and also seizing of stainless steel bolts/fittings and it works really well. Love the channel, keep up the great work
I haven’t found the “locking” feature to be a problem, but what really annoys me is how quickly Duralac goes hard once the tin has been opened. For the cheapest Duralac around, google “Elise” in Denmark. A firm specialising in spares for Lotus Elise cars. Tefgel is great but so bloody expensive.
Mads, one comment on the bow roller: don't forget to take into consideration that you need room for the anchor to clear the pulpit when being dropped. Based on my experience, such a large anchor might in fact interfere with the pulpit while going down and up. Worth double checking it. In my case, I ended up extending the bow roller forward.
New to the Channel. Binge watching some of the older one to get caught up.... Enjoying so far.
Great video of renewing expansion tank
Instead of paying for that $80 hose consider mounting that expansion tank on the bulkhead, my engine cut a hole in the tank via the bracket. I resolved it by mounting the new tank on a near bulkhead and it’s been faithfully chugging along ever since
Hi , YOUR PROJECT IS A CREDIT TO YOU .I have just about watched very one ,solid well thought out ,your pride and joy
Dyneema Rigging. Mega strong, no more corrosion, diy able. Feels nice soft and cuddly on the hands compared to steel. Easy to carry extra rigging material to make changes or repairs while at sea. It’s something like 15x stronger than steel by weight. High abrasive, uv and cut resistance, I had it on my boat for 10 years before selling and it stayed beautiful.
Dyneema with high cut/abrasion resistance? It must have a sheathing of some sort. Sounds intriguing. Instead of $3000 it would likely be $6000.
Colligo Synthetic Rigging. I redid mine and very happy. I know you have done your chain plates but he also did never corrode Titanium chain plates for me.
hi mads! i recommend calling john franta at colligo marine for dynex dux rigging. best wishes
Very interesting stuff. Have you had direct experience with it? Would be interested to hear.
@@billfromgermany hj bill, i have the dux rigging but havent stepped the mast or launched yet. hope happens this winter . btw the weight difference is amazing. the dux has been around long enough now that there is lots of data available.
Hi Mads,
We use Frank from Riggerne in Svendborg when it comes to our Rig.
Great video as always :)
Maybe look at dyneema rigging, can be done by yourself and less weight up top. Makes for a less rolly sleep at anchor. Just a thought.
Hey Mads, just binged your channel (from the start of Athena) and you nail it every time in your videos. Good job with everything so far, and keep the content coming. Real quick thought. I don't recall hearing you say if you plan on keeping the name of Athena or changing it. My thinking is that with all the "oh glorious" work you've done so far, there's not much of Athena even left. My top vote for a new name would be Spiffy for obvious reasons. A close second and third would be Gloria (for glorious) and Sandy (for sanding)..."Oh Glorious sanding." However it is, like you say your boat just thought I'd mention it. Keep up the good work Mads. It's very inspirational watching how you see a problem, and teach yourself through the solution. Gives me hope for my own future project.
P.S. Here in the states we throw around the term "widget" to describe an unknown object ;)
O'Gloria Sandy...until he starts on the 45 footer "O'Gloria Sandy II"
Have you considered making your own rigging with Sta-Lok or similar fittings? I know that time is precious but the fix-it-yourself aspect should be right up your alley. There are three excellent videos on the process on the Drake Paragon channel.
As you approach the end of this humongous project, we hope you have the opportunity to deeply savor the sense of satisfaction you have earned. Your investment of $$$ and time boggles my small mind. Your discipline to consistently maintain superior level of craftsmanship and willingness to try new ideas and master new skills is outstanding. We have limited amount of time on this earth. Hope you soon are in position to begin enjoying what you have masterfully created. Good luck!
Yes Mads go with swage less terminals, diy is necessary in remote areas, don't forget covers for the spreader ends. Lazy jacks and a boom brake too.
Mate, before you order your standing rigging have a good look at Sta Lok fittings. I just did my Catalina and love the system. Next time your rigging needs replacing all you replace is the cables, you keep your fittings.
Love your work and wish you more sunshine
Cheers
Reiner
Australia
I agree, did mine top and bottom.
Did mine with Sta-lock also. Worked out great.
SOrry Sorry Sorry, You are such a precise working guy, so it will not go in my mind that you mounted a very dirty expansiontank on the Volvo. For the rest I appreciate your video's. I love it. Let me guess about the leaking chain plate I think it is the double one
I think its leaking between the plates maybe you should weld them together.
Be sure to check the clutch when you fire up the engine. If the cables aren't adjusted properly, your clutch can slip and it won't be long before you are replacing the clutch plates (which are not cheap). It shouldn't turn the prop at all when in neutral and when the transmission is engaged in forward or reverse it shouldn't slip at all.
Mads, if the weather doesn't give you a window before winter sets in, this might be a good time to bite the bullet and pay for a few days in a shed to get that last coat on, since it can really delay other things you want to finish.
Mads. Better add 15 minutes to that prop install. Great progress - can't wait! Ron
Also, its much lighter. The less weight on the masts, the smoother the ride. Not to mention, you can carry enough dyneema on board to completely re-rig Athena two times over and barely add any significant weight. You can’t carry spare steel rigging. Just my two cents and two comments;)
Regarding riggers to contact, I would recommend getting a quote from Hansen & Hamacher in Vamdrup near Kolding. Very knowledgeable, great service and fair prices.
Our thumbs are up!!
Busy busy... best of luck
Rocna 33 seems a bit of overkill for your boat. We have a 42 with a Rocna 25 and never had it fail. You might want to reconsider the size.
I was sure you would go with Dyneema light and easy
Its coming together nicely Mads, all the hard work and patients will be rewarded. Looking forward to splash day, as many others.
Wow, you’re getting so close. Soon we’ll be watching Sail life videos from the high seas.
Im guessing its already been said, but i would not be a bad idea to look into Dyneema rigging. Way cheaper, stronger, and easily maintained.
Athena is looking great!
Cheaper? I would think that impossible with DCF.
As far as stainless wire rope standing rigging is concerned I wouldn't think of anything else. Rod is a major PITA when you have to remove the mast and carry it with you like when you need to go through the erie canal to get to the great lakes. It has a performance benefit, but isn't worth it if you aren't a performance sailor and racing.
Dyneema is strong but fragile. Chafe is an issue. Make an error and your genoa sheets are rubbing on it all night in a storm somewhere in the middle if the Atlantic and didnt realize it and you are up the brown creek without a paddle really damn fast.
I've seen boats drag down into other boats in an anchorage and get their shrouds tangled, have seen shrouds caught/snagged on overhangs and pilings in marinas too. It doesn't take much to damage fiber compared to steel.
The last thing I want to worry about in the middle of a storm when some bozo with too small of an anchor or not enough scope is dragging into me is getting dismasted on top of everything else as our anchors, chains, lifelines, and shrouds are all tangling and we are getting blown into only god knows what to leward.
Nope, I'll take good strong heavy-aloft wire rope. This is a cruising boat, we don't pretend to be a racer.
We have Hayne swageless fittings. They aren't hard to redo with new cones inside. We have enough extra wire stored down below to completely redo the standing rigging when that time comes.
Love this channel and look forward to it every week. If you are modifying the anchor roller anyway, you might want to consider adding a ring at the end for an asymmetric spinnaker
As you are such a perfectionist I think it would be a good idea to clean the inside of the header tank of the coolant system. You will more clearly see the new coolant. Cheers Ian Langley New Zealand
Hi Maz
If you going to use old expansion tank you can clean the inside with dish liquid water and half a cup of clean builders sand close openings and shake around it will look all spiffy ☺
since you're looking at estimates...check out the dyneema varients...(aka kevlar) it's lighter and stronger than that steel and does not rust....get the covered version and it's protected from UV as well....
Might also look at the Cape Horn autopilot system.....
As hard as you work is as relaxed I get watching you. Thank you.
Looking forward to the super glorious splash day!
hi the boat is looking very good
Dude did we go to the same high school in 1988? Todays vernacular made me nostalgic for my senior year :)
For any of the longer shank anchors like the Rocna and Mantus, the issue I have experienced is that as the anchor dips down towards the water, the shank lifts up in the rear just like you depicted. Depending on the height of the cross-bars in the bow pulpit, that is where the shank tends to hit. You really need to have the bow pulpit back on as well, or at least on the boat in order to dry fit to ensure the shank will clear the crossbar as the rear lifts. I have an 82lb Mantus on my Hylas 46 which I absolutely love, but this is the same experience I have every time we anchor. Because the rear of the shank lifts up into the pulpit crossbar, I have to step on the chain the keep the rear "down" and flat until it finally clears said bar. Once it does I can let it go and fully deploy the anchor. It's a bit of gymnastics for sure. It happens on the way up as well since the shank is pointed 45 degrees into the air and I have to force it down manually to clear that bar. Enjoy!
Hello Mads. The weight of the anchor chain should stop the anchor flipping and hitting the hull when you release it.
Appologies if you have had same thoughts from others but I have not read them all. Great project. Thanks.
Have just found the same in another persons post.
Even though you have a fuel polishing system would you consider having two fuel filters in parallel as a backup? That enable you to switch over to a clean filter if the one in use has a problem. Very simple with the flick of the wrist.
See you!
B&G all day every day!
The dohicky is a cotter pin or retaining pin. You got me on the thingamajig. 😉
I thought it an s-clip but I have been away while.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 There are probably half a dozen names depending on usage. 🙂
Killer video as always. Keep it up.
Nicely done with the AvE reference. 👍🏼
Now I 'have' to rewatch the video to spot it 😅
I've been watching your DYI videos of Athina since this series started. Im so sad that its soon over! Regards from Sweden.
Hi Mads. Suggestion what about having a spinnaker pole now you have fokus on the Bow. Thanks for a great serie.
Hi Mads, I strongly suggest to install a double racor in the engine room. As soon as you purchase diesel with biodiesel in it and you forget to add diesel additives, you risk diesel bug to build up in your tank, fuel lines, and racor filter. Then you can switch to the second racor and keep going to a place where you can clean your system. I speak from multiple experience, in the Mediterranean. I do not know how the biodiesel situation is in the Northern latitudes, though. Regards from Switzerland, Silvano
He has an entire fuel polishing rig. I believe the filter he installed is the final filter. There are one to two additional filters upstream.
Than he might be out of trouble...
A 500-series Racor is rated at 60 gallons of flow per hour, which is 60x what this little Volvo green devil drinks. If the bug in the tank is so bad that the racor is plugging up to the point where it can not even flow at only 1gph then switching to another filter isn't going to help for very long -minutes at that point. Then, it too, will plug up as well.
Take a look in nautos.com.br/inicial/products-en/ for standing riggin, the company does costum for you
I was always told when having standing rigging done, make sure you get fittings that allow you to turn them end-to-end every so often thus extending their life.
You know Mads, I think thats more like a whatchamacallit than any one of those other thingamajigs
I think it is best that you are combining the double chainplate. But I bet you could have gotten away with it as it was with the butyl in there between them. The only caveat would have been to make the butyl section short enough so that if it did fail it wouldn't have much room to trap water up against the metal to contribute to crevice corrosion. Worst case is you get a very few tiny drips down below.
I have bedded plexiglass glass portlights in aluminum frames where I could not find the proper rubber gasket (because the plexiglass replacement pane was thinner than the original unobtainium safety glass) and it worked just fine for years with no leaking, and that is with minimal continuing pressure on the butyl from the frame and the plexiglass part only held in by the butyl itself, only floating there in the frame.
Butyl has wonderful self-healing properties as a sealant as long as movement is kept to an absolute minimum.
The haters can call me names and say all sorts of BS but this is real world long-distance cruising experience, not armchair weekend warrior whatever taking. Credibility is a credibility does.
As always, I can't wait for next week's video.
You could always put a keelguard on the bow to help protect it from the anchor.
Bow roller dohicky = Roller Stemhead.
Engine control do-dad = Morse control (although "Morse" is like "Hoover", a trade name that has become generic).
Fine example of a dohicky = R-clip.
You are a good project manager, and "doer" in one person. Fantastic if you indeed manage to get her splashed in October.
Great work as always!
She's really coming along nicely.
Cheers from Southern California USA ~
boat is really looking good mate, good job
The do hickie is necessary because the thing a ma jig requires backup in case the whatcha call it loosens up. Make sure the thing-a-ma-bob is set to righty tighty, not lefty loosey.
Don't forget to order extra replacement parts that are rubber or plastic Mads
RTFM....it works!
A Comment!!! CHEERS from Canada!
It’s a good thing that you have an analytical mind with all you have to address in putting your vessel back together.
I would guess the plastic clip for the gear is to insulate it from the engine. Same as for the plastic washers between the drive and the engine.