Thank for you tips on working with casts in hydro stone. I have never used it and am about to cast my sculptures in that material. Your methods save me a lot of time and headaches/heartbreak in knowing how to repair areas. 😊
Jon it’s such a professional I watched a lot of his videos and if you were to get the knowledge that he has sitting in a classroom you’ll be spending a lot of money I highly recommend watching his videos and learning from his expertise he’s such a great teacher
I’ve just watched the first 2 videos, which I found FANTASTIC formative information, you are SO TALENTED, hopefully I will be trying to make sculpting a career myself, the difficulty was getting ENOUGH information on mild making . Once again! LOVE what your doing , Beautiful sculptures and Extremely informative information on mild making.
You can use a general purpose 2-part epoxy. Loctite is a good brand. Fast-setting is better so you can avoid holding it forever. Thanks for watching Roshan!
How long do you have to start and complete the chasing after demolding? Does Hydro-Stone ever get impossibly hard to where you can no longer chase or edit it?
Hi Phylicia. The hydrostone tends to crumble while it is post curing. If you want to do any chasing, this is a good time but you should wait to attempt sanding as the grit or grain will be super aggressive and show evidence of it. When the hydrostone has fully cured and dried (you'll hear an audible "ting") more aggressive tools like a Dremel will be necessary. Sanding is best at this stage but avoid 100/200 grit as your final sanding grit. I also have a video on using modeling paste to help fill air bubbles and minor imperfections. ruclips.net/video/dl3aT-i8O-U/видео.html Thanks for watching!
Other than stone or bronze for sculptures, is hydrostone very durable? I want something that I can similar to stone sculptures. I want it to feel heavy and durable.
It's good and 25x harder than plaster.you may want to check out other forms of gypcrete and such. I have no experience with those but understand they are even harder.
I've used gorilla glue on ceramic. It expanded enough to move the piece out of alignment. I don't prefer it. I'd use Elmer's glue before I'd use gorilla glue, just dampen the plaster first. PC7 is another choice. But if you go with gorilla glue, secure it firmly before it sets. I'd do a practice piece beforehand. Best of luck 🤞
Thank you, Jon, we seem to have similar working habits! You have knowledge I don't have. Perhaps you can give me some casting tips. I am casting a very large, multi piece mold (36" high, 20" wide) with lots of undercuts. I am to use hydrostone, which I have not used before. I am going to pour a thin base coat into each half which will not go completely to the edges. Then reinforce the pour with fiberglass cloth in the arm and hand areas. Hopefully I can bolt the two halves together and pour a second coat into the whole mold filling in the bound together halves. Then a third coat for thickness and durability. I am wondering if this process will be workable. Do you have any thoughts about this?
I've deliberately dropped 3/8" hydrostone mother molds that have been reinforced by fiberglass. From a three foot drop, table height, it withstands impact. The edges chipped a little. Amazing stuff, fiberglass. Your approach sounds good. I'll attach a link below from another sculptor I follow who resides in Florence. He's worth watching. Two layers should suffice. After that you're getting into heavy territory unless you believe weight adds perceived value. If you don't have a rotational casting machine, get a sturdy galvanized trash can. That should contain your mold's dimensions. Pack newspaper or whatever to secure it. That will allow you to easily rotate the piece horizontally at least more easily than by hand. I'd use a workbench so you could tip it more easily and still keep it within your powerzone (don't over extend yourself). Remember to watch attached link for tips. He uses resin but it's the same approach you're describing. ruclips.net/video/l7o04mrfv6Q/видео.html
Los videos son buenos, se nota que hay mucha experiencia en lo que se describe, muestran el proceso paso a paso, pero creo hay 2 fallos en la reparación de la rotura de la pierna a nivel de la rodilla. No se añade un refuerzo metálico inoxidable en la unión, por ejemplo un trozo de varilla roscada de inoxidable, y no se muestra algo tan importante como es el modo de sujetar esa pierna mientras seca el pegamento. Por otro lado, si bien el usar cola blanca de carpintero puede ser útil, es preferible una resina epoxi 2 componentes y hacer la unión en 2 tiempos. Primero unir la varilla al muslo, y cuando haya fraguado hacer la unión con la pierna. Naturalmente antes de la unión definitiva con la resina epoxi deben hacerse pruebas de posición exacta con la varilla de inoxidable sin resina.
Hey Antonio! In my experience, glue is sufficient, unless of course, someone is prone to hitting the same spot over and over. I wouldn't be concerned otherwise.
Thank for you tips on working with casts in hydro stone. I have never used it and am about to cast my sculptures in that material. Your methods save me a lot of time and headaches/heartbreak in knowing how to repair areas. 😊
Really helpful. A great glue to use is Paraloid b72. It can also be mixed with dust to make a filler.
Jon it’s such a professional I watched a lot of his videos and if you were to get the knowledge that he has sitting in a classroom you’ll be spending a lot of money I highly recommend watching his videos and learning from his expertise he’s such a great teacher
I’ve just watched the first 2 videos, which I found FANTASTIC formative information, you are SO TALENTED, hopefully I will be trying to make sculpting a career myself, the difficulty was getting ENOUGH information on mild making . Once again! LOVE what your doing , Beautiful sculptures and Extremely informative information on mild making.
Sláinte!
Dear,your work very interesting ,i want to ask wich glue you use join leg?
You can use a general purpose 2-part epoxy. Loctite is a good brand. Fast-setting is better so you can avoid holding it forever. Thanks for watching Roshan!
Very Very helpful. Thanks bro
Hey, I work in plaster... do u have a formula to make white plaster, lightly aged? Like a yellowed brown finish? I will wax afterwards. Thx. -Cliff
So beautiful art
How long do you have to start and complete the chasing after demolding? Does Hydro-Stone ever get impossibly hard to where you can no longer chase or edit it?
Hi Phylicia. The hydrostone tends to crumble while it is post curing. If you want to do any chasing, this is a good time but you should wait to attempt sanding as the grit or grain will be super aggressive and show evidence of it. When the hydrostone has fully cured and dried (you'll hear an audible "ting") more aggressive tools like a Dremel will be necessary. Sanding is best at this stage but avoid 100/200 grit as your final sanding grit.
I also have a video on using modeling paste to help fill air bubbles and minor imperfections. ruclips.net/video/dl3aT-i8O-U/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
Other than stone or bronze for sculptures, is hydrostone very durable? I want something that I can similar to stone sculptures. I want it to feel heavy and durable.
It's good and 25x harder than plaster.you may want to check out other forms of gypcrete and such. I have no experience with those but understand they are even harder.
Hi Jon! Thanks for this video! I recently broke an anatomical cast that I need to fix. Can I substitute the Titebond glue with Gorilla wood glue?
I've used gorilla glue on ceramic. It expanded enough to move the piece out of alignment. I don't prefer it. I'd use Elmer's glue before I'd use gorilla glue, just dampen the plaster first. PC7 is another choice. But if you go with gorilla glue, secure it firmly before it sets. I'd do a practice piece beforehand. Best of luck 🤞
Thank you, Jon, we seem to have similar working habits! You have knowledge I don't have. Perhaps you can give me some casting tips. I am casting a very large, multi piece mold (36" high, 20" wide) with lots of undercuts. I am to use hydrostone, which I have not used before. I am going to pour a thin base coat into each half which will not go completely to the edges. Then reinforce the pour with fiberglass cloth in the arm and hand areas. Hopefully I can bolt the two halves together and pour a second coat into the whole mold filling in the bound together halves. Then a third coat for thickness and durability. I am wondering if this process will be workable. Do you have any thoughts about this?
I've deliberately dropped 3/8" hydrostone mother molds that have been reinforced by fiberglass. From a three foot drop, table height, it withstands impact. The edges chipped a little. Amazing stuff, fiberglass. Your approach sounds good. I'll attach a link below from another sculptor I follow who resides in Florence. He's worth watching. Two layers should suffice. After that you're getting into heavy territory unless you believe weight adds perceived value. If you don't have a rotational casting machine, get a sturdy galvanized trash can. That should contain your mold's dimensions. Pack newspaper or whatever to secure it. That will allow you to easily rotate the piece horizontally at least more easily than by hand. I'd use a workbench so you could tip it more easily and still keep it within your powerzone (don't over extend yourself). Remember to watch attached link for tips. He uses resin but it's the same approach you're describing.
ruclips.net/video/l7o04mrfv6Q/видео.html
@@JonBurnsFineArt m
Thank you SO MUCH. You answered beyond my expectations. Also, let me say you are a very natural teacher. Blessings!
Los videos son buenos, se nota que hay mucha experiencia en lo que se describe, muestran el proceso paso a paso, pero creo hay 2 fallos en la reparación de la rotura de la pierna a nivel de la rodilla. No se añade un refuerzo metálico inoxidable en la unión, por ejemplo un trozo de varilla roscada de inoxidable, y no se muestra algo tan importante como es el modo de sujetar esa pierna mientras seca el pegamento. Por otro lado, si bien el usar cola blanca de carpintero puede ser útil, es preferible una resina epoxi 2 componentes y hacer la unión en 2 tiempos. Primero unir la varilla al muslo, y cuando haya fraguado hacer la unión con la pierna. Naturalmente antes de la unión definitiva con la resina epoxi deben hacerse pruebas de posición exacta con la varilla de inoxidable sin resina.
Hey Antonio! In my experience, glue is sufficient, unless of course, someone is prone to hitting the same spot over and over. I wouldn't be concerned otherwise.