How to Take Dark and Flat Frames | High Point Scientific

In this video Teagan reviews the importance of calibration frames and why you need to take them for your astrophotography. These include things such as darks, flats, and more.
Interested in learning more about calibration frames? Check out our most recent article: www.highpoints...
Looking to expand your astronomy knowledge even further? The Astronomy Hub is the place to learn everything from what’s in the sky this month, to what gear can help you capture the best celestial images. Learn more here ➡️ www.highpoints...
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[@setnes]

Boarding up the door to the room was a nice touch. :)

[@highpointscientific]

We think so too!

[@markszkil]

Thanks for your presentation. Very concise and to the point.

[@highpointscientific]

Glad it was helpful!

[@humphrysr]

Think I had a 10" refractor dropped on my head, so I came back to listen again. Lot to unpack in these tutorials. They are great. If I can get through these, I will reward myself with an opaque donut

[@highpointscientific]

Glad to help!

[@rainerehlert]

Hi, If you make qa tutorial I think it would be good to get rid of the background music which only dystracts from the talking. Thanks

[@briankotak403]

Thanks Teagan! I like the idea of taking Darks with the astronomy camera not attached to the telescope. Makes it much easier. Also easier to just block off some time and shoot/create a whole library of darks at different temps, gains and exposure lengths. Thanks for the video. Dr B from Manitoba, Canada

[@highpointscientific]

Thanks for watching!

[@humphrysr]

This guy is real good.

[@highpointscientific]

Thank you!

[@raycampbell939]

At around 2:02 you say to keep your camera orientation the same as your light frames. In the very next breath you say to reorient your scope to point straight up to facilitate flat frames. This seems contradictory, no?

[@highpointscientific]

Hi Ray, thanks for pointing that out! To clarify, you'll want to make sure that you do not rotate or adjust the camera in any way. The scope can be pointed in any direction towards the sky to take sky flats because the scope, camera sensor, filters, optics, etc. are all moving together in unison. Nothing in the imaging train is being changed.
When you change the orientation of the camera only, any dust specs that may reside on your filters or field flatteners are now in a different position when you take your flats frames. Since your flats frames are used to simply reverse the effects of vignetting and dust specs, if you rotate your camera, these specs are now in a different location when you take the flat frame and now they cannot be properly subtracted out

[@jtepsr]

How about bias frames

[@sebastianfamularo5030]

Awesome vedios!!.

[@highpointscientific]

Thank you!

[@tommypaul9036]

In using a DSLR and 135 mm lens, are the calibration frames shot in RAW or JPG?

[@jtepsr]

how do you take dark flat frames

[@jesuschrist2284]

Hoe do you keep your focus while stretching the tshirt and rubber banding it?

[@AntPDC]

Goes from simple white T-Shirt with elastic band 😀to an unknown concept called "ADU" in 30 secs flat 😅. When we get to "unity gain" a minute later I had to lie down in a foetal position 🥵

[@milanradulovic3915]

When taking those flat frames, the focus should remain the same. And when putting the shirt on it, focus ring can easy be moved on

[@scalemodelenthusiast1633]

Everybody like Texan