Well done! I had the same issue and thought I had an issue with the fuses located under the subwoofer. Fortunately for me, the issue was the sequence that I used to reconnect the batteries after doing some servicing. Mercedes requires the two batteries to be reconnected in a certain order. Once I followed their instructions (found in the owner's manual), I was able to clear the red battery code using my Foxwell scanner. Got lucky, as I hear replacing the fuses can be a bit of a bugger. Cheers
Hi Stevezenk7813, thanks for the kind words, I just realised that I referred to the fuse behind the subwoofer as resistors, but I meant fuses ! Our SL's are so clever for their day, Such a joy to work on them, Hope your's is going strong, thanks if you considered following me !
@@fredrezfield1629 With the car running, I was getting 13+ volts (charging voltage) on the rear (convenience battery). That was an indicator to me that the fuses under the subwoofer were not blown, otherwise the battery would not receive a charge from the alternator.
@@sweetxfrost9 Per the manual (page 405), here is the sequence to use for reconnecting the batteries: 1. Connect the positive cable to the starter (front) battery, 2. Connect the positive cable to the consumer (rear) battery, 3. Connect the negative cable to the starter battery, 4. Connect the negative cable to the consumer battery. After this is completed, you may need to resynchronize the ESP and side window positions (see pages 341 and 195 respectively). Hope this helps.
Got the red battery light for the first time, along with a Battery/Alternator red light. Took the car for a 20 mile run, and everything cleared after about 2 miles, with convenience functions all good. I have a plug in double USB unit with a built in voltmeter, and voltage was steady at 14.2v. This morning, the vehicle started without issues, voltage still showing 14.2 or there about, and I used my iCarSoft to do an automatic scan, with no issues found. I then did a manual scan for the first time since I bought the iCarSoft, and any and all errors found were deemed ‘historical’, and I was able to clear them all. I am aware that the consumer battery is dropping below 12v, so will keep an eye on that with my Topdon tester, and fingers crossed, no more red battery light! Finally, a big “Thank you”, as watching your videos, plus your always prompt responses to your followers questions, has given me the confidence to fault find issues that I would have previously stayed well clear of, and that would have likely cost me a lot of time and money!
Hey there, great problem solving solutions my friend, well done for checking the changing voltage, so you know the alternator is good. If it takes 20mins for your convenience error to clear on dash it does sound like rear battery is on its way out yes. When you start the car have a listen, if the front battery is is good it will sound nice and strong and fast. If you do get another battery, I cannot recommend enough genuine Mercedes batteries, they are amazing and don't cost more than the best aftermarket battery. I can leave my car for a month with no starting issues. If none of that stops the red battery error, it will likely just be the fuse behind subwoofer in passenger foot well. Good luck. Let me know and thanks for subscribing🙏
@@GrooveOn …one question if I may - is the voltmeter checking (a) starter battery voltage (b) consumer battery voltage, or (c) system voltage ( a + b)?
@@jeffstewart7045 good question, my little volt meter is wired to the cigarette lighter, I noticed that when I had a weak rear battery and got the convenience not functioning message on dash, my volt meter didn't work. As soon as the error message went my volt meter came on, which tells me it's the rear battery I believe. The front battery is really only for starting, the alternator charges both batteries though. The volt meter when engine on is showing my alternator voltage about 14.1 V. With engine off, my volt meter will be giving me the voltage of rear battery. To test your batteries I would check your voltage drop over a couple of days
I usually do the negative first in case of contact with the body. That way the positive can't touch the earth when disconnecting. Positive goes on first when new one goes in. Good video 👍
Standard practice is to always disconnect the negative first on a negative earth vehicle so as not to arc weld 800amps across the spanner and blow yourself up by accident
@@jonatday I never know either but I think I read somewhere that disconnecting positive first was recommended by Benz having something to do with the settings not being reset. When I disconnect the negative first I notice I always have to reset the windows. When I do the positive I don’t seem to have to do this.
That was a really good result for you! It does make you wonder why Mercedes feel they need a separate battery to feed the starter? It must require all sorts of other electronic bits to co ordinate the main battery in the boot into the system, why not just fit a higher amperage battery, and if the engine starting battery was good enough to turn the engine why would it show up as a fault, that battery would have gone on for another year. On the positive side it is nice to see you have some sunny weather, we have plunged to 32 degs here! Chris B.
Hi there, this is a good question,. The reason for the two batteries is to maintain the level of power needed for all the different computers and electronics. The front starter battery gets trickle charged from the main battery, starting the car uses huge current especially in the cold months, so could deplete the power if there was just one battery,
@@GrooveOn This must be overkill on the part of Mercedes,(or a quest for more profit from selling spares), as your Range Rovers do not have 2 batteries, and they have even more computer junk fitted. Stay dry! Chris B.
awesome video. question.. I have 2004 sl 500 with same issue red battery light on dash visit workshop...code B1829 and B1833. codes won't clear... after testing batteries 12.5 volts sitting and 14.5 votes with car on using alternator. The code B1829 states the fuse under passenger side which is a big project to get to. I'm getting 14.5 volts to both batteries so in my mind that fuse must be good... yes ? Thanks
Looks like you are getting a good charge from the alternator, however the front battery and rear battery are linked through the BCM at the back, so if the fuse has gone behind the sub, it may still look like its charging. What tool are you using to clear the faults, I used my icarsoft and had to manually clear, it wont clear sometimes by itself. If you want to get to the fuse in passenger foot well, I did a video. ruclips.net/video/6MTLPD3x01w/видео.html
Well done. I’ve had a red battery light for a couple of years. Press the menu button and it goes until the next start. Everything works fine. I might look at replacing the batteries. Ps you’re supposed to disconnect the consumer battery before the front one 😮 😉
Thanks for the encouragement mate, one man RUclipsr, but get such a buzz if I hear I help people save money and time!!🤟 Thanks so much if you subscribed
Great video, as ever!! One question: is bad to leave the roof nearly allways open? I have my SL in my home garaje, with a complete cover, and I allways drive it with the roof open (I live on Spain) so I use to not close the roof ever.
Now I am envious of you, lo sento ! I would mucho love to live in Espanol ! I would say it's fine to leave the roof down, just cycle it closed now and then to keep the motors and pump good. Adiós.
Hello. Super helpful video. I own a Sl 55amg from 2003. 97k km . Just had that light pop up on my dash after 1.5 months without driving it ( went on holidays) and when back, battery dead… anyway the battery was already from 2014. Replaced for a new one, same as yours and the light still on . Took it to the garage and they told me they need to check it since they could not erase the message ( I’m wondering if they don’t want to milk me). I would like to buy the icarsoft y ou have to see if I can do the same as you. Could you specify the model and if comes already with the software and cables that is necessary to do what you did? Also since I changed the batttery the car goes like nothing has ever happened . Many thanks for the educational videos . Cheers
Hi PedroGoncalves, the SL55 AMG is a lovely car wow. For the iCarSoft I used in the video you can buy a multi car version that you can choose up to 19 models. It's available on my Amazon Store and here is the link: amzn.to/3QRSfgK (I get a small commission but it doesn't cost you anymore than normal so win win !)
@@PedroGoncalves-gu1ih p.s. I have a Mercedes playlist on my channel there are loads of SL videos to help you.👍 Mercedes Fixes by GrooveOn: ruclips.net/p/PLIcL6boQ-d8jVnGTSS5Rc21O-7CkMhBZX
Hello very good video very interesting, can you help me I would like to ask you a question: how can we enter a reference of a used battery or there is nothing written on the battery and how to do it? And if I buy a new varta battery, there are not always his numbers how to do it, thank you cordially. Audi q7
Great video man. I'm a diy benz owner myself and have a 2010 w207 e550 coupe. I have been having battery issues for years and the car just keeps killing batteries (thankful for warranty).. they have changed the alternator, the starter, the battery many times and still I am having battery issues. I find the car battery almost dead (12.1v usually) when I start the car with a brand new battery and a very loud higher pitched whine from the alternator that changes with acceleration. On the w207 model there is a mechanic mode where I can read the voltage while driving similar to your cig lighter setup and I noticed that voltage drops to 12 spontaneously while driving and then jumps up to 14v but it seems to sit around mid 13v. The alternator is a 14v so I am wondering if maybe my voltage regulator is bad and that whining noise is the alternator working extra hard to adjust the drops? After watching your video you mentioned the subwoofer in the trunk.. there is a similar setup on the w207 and I notice that when i turn the car off and sit in it for a while I can hear a buzzing from back there that comes and goes. Is that a sign of that resistor you mentioned? It has been doing this for years. I have Icarsoft as well and the only relevant code it gave me was "communication with the battery sensor has a malfunction" not sure what that could be as i've never seen that one and I was charging the battery at the time (maybe that caused it). Sorry for all the words thanks in advance.
The last about not connecting to battery sensor interests me. My car has a BCM battery condition monitor , when they fail, can catch fire and total you car. Have a look if your car had this, it will be near battery, my car has an aux and starter battery, my BCM sits near to rear aux battery Also does your car need the battery to be advised it's new? Some cars use BMS battery monitor system, new batteries need less current to charge, whilst older batteries use more, so you enter this info in icarsoft
@@GrooveOnI don’t think I have a bcm but the sensor is attached to the negative terminal and I think sends signals to the alternator to work harder or less. I tried to charge the battery and it was almost fully dead after driving all day. I have never had anyone program the new battery and they have all failed within a year maybe that’s my issue? I have the I carsoft like yours can I do this operation off that?
@@Dnasty1 yes you can with icarsoft, I really recommend the original Mercedes battery many people will say the same, use forum's to help you like mb world or Benz world you'll find me there too A1EK is me. You could phone up mercedes parts and just ask them if you bought a battery from them , do you need to program it to car.
I've got the older iCarsoft ( MBII ) and yeah, you can't get a hold of support. I tried updating to the 3.0 code but doesn't work. Doesn't seem much different in yours. Now onto the question - 2005 SL55 - I'm getting intermittent Battery / Visit Workshop and the other night, while on a drive, it came on and shut down my accessories, maybe 2 min later they came back on and all was well. First time that's happened in the 4 years I've owned the SL, used to happen on my E55 when the car sat too long and the accessories would power up a few min into the drive. New batteries about 2 years ago after chasing a slow crank when hot which, 2 weeks after replacing the batteries, the starter locked up so I guess it was the starter all along. So, anyway, no DTC's stored so I'm a bit perplexed.
I've heard the iCsrsoft customer service is not great, hence why I started to do the videos. I had the same slow crank when hot, I had to replace me starter motor, you can do it from under the car, here is my video to help you: ruclips.net/video/Bs4jU21d7_U/видео.html Are your batteries genuine Mercedes? other brands care just not the same, i've had 3 different types in my rear, but since I have fitted the Mercedes genuine not had issues in 3 years ! I wonder if your starter motor is draining the power from the starter front battery? do you lose your convenience functions like heated seats when you see the message on dash?
@@GrooveOn yeah, already did the starter 2 years ago... I did some further diagnistics yesterday. My cranking battery is at 12.67 but my convenience battery was only 11.9v. These are also 2 year old batteries. I put it on my charger with the recovery function and will do some further troubleshooting today. On my E55, there was some sort of pack in the trunk that I replaced that was causing an issue but my buddy the Mercedes Mechanic said the SL is different. I haven't bugged him yet but wondering if you know where the electronics are that regulate the charging power to the rear battery?
@@Eric66MD okay, good so you can rule out the starter as you've changed it. Front battery seems strong, rear battery looks dead though. I believe the BCM battery control monitor is in truck right side behind liner above wheel arch, they are prone to faults and can also short out dangerously
@@Eric66MD have you gone deep into all the menus, there a lot to go through. How long can you leave the car without starting before convenience error on dash? I get a good 3 weeks. Your car may not be sleeping, canbus issues?
hi i just want to ask do you need to register the consumer (rear) battery? i did change the battery (After Market) but 5 to 7 days not using the car the consumer (rear) battery is losing charge (7 volts). hope you or any one can help me. thanks
I have never been able to locate a starter battery for my 2003 SL that would fit into the compartment . Mercedes is the only one do to it's small size . Trust me I have looked long and hard !
I wouldn't buy any other battery for the SL, the Mercedes one is far superior, I have mentioned this many times before, although Varta are the manufacturers of the Mercedes battery the quality that they have to meet for Mercedes standards is second to none I have a Mercedes battery in the rear and the Mercedes battery in the front and they are excellent
there is only one battery you need, get the original Mercedes battery from the dealer, in your front and back you will not be disappointed and your car will thank you for it !
Hi mate, I have this red battery light on plus ABS light now as my starter battery isn't being charged. My mechanic has changed the 100 amp fuse you mentioned.. didn't fix it, he has tested the battery and that was fine. My mechanic is all out of ideas.. do you have any thoughts? Thanks.
So you changed the fuse behind the sub yeah? Have you checked both front and rear batteries? Did your mechanic clear the fault with his diagnostic as the red light doesn't always go away on its own, you need to clear codes. Are your convenience functions off? I.e heated seats , cigar lighter?
@@GrooveOn thanks for quick reply, yep fuse behind the sub changed, faults cleared with diag, rear battery working fine with a stable voltage and all convenience functions working. Just no charge going to the starter battery. Great videos by the way!
@@LewisburnsSL interesting so when you put a meter on the front battery cables with engine running you should get 14.1 V is this not the case? are you seeing les around 12.4V? Have you checked your BCM Battery Condition Monitor in the trunk? Talking about the fuse behind the sub its the larger F52f2 fuse 100Amp
@@GrooveOn you had a different icon on top of the battery ? was there a message on top of the battery icon/ and when you were getting it was it incessant or was it sporadic?
@@fredrezfield1629Yes I have km there. if you look at this video I show all the menus. ruclips.net/video/XymdY4DVwmo/видео.html Year is 2004, 2003 older models had different settings, e.g. I can automatically fold Mirrors when locked car, or operate roof from remote
Definatley disconnect negative first, major safety point!!
Well done! I had the same issue and thought I had an issue with the fuses located under the subwoofer. Fortunately for me, the issue was the sequence that I used to reconnect the batteries after doing some servicing. Mercedes requires the two batteries to be reconnected in a certain order. Once I followed their instructions (found in the owner's manual), I was able to clear the red battery code using my Foxwell scanner. Got lucky, as I hear replacing the fuses can be a bit of a bugger. Cheers
Hi Stevezenk7813, thanks for the kind words, I just realised that I referred to the fuse behind the subwoofer as resistors, but I meant fuses ! Our SL's are so clever for their day, Such a joy to work on them, Hope your's is going strong, thanks if you considered following me !
what voltage were you getting? 13.45? when measuring the starter battery ? or 12 or less?
@@fredrezfield1629 With the car running, I was getting 13+ volts (charging voltage) on the rear (convenience battery). That was an indicator to me that the fuses under the subwoofer were not blown, otherwise the battery would not receive a charge from the alternator.
What is the way to recommend way to put it on?
@@sweetxfrost9 Per the manual (page 405), here is the sequence to use for reconnecting the batteries:
1. Connect the positive cable to the starter (front) battery,
2. Connect the positive cable to the consumer (rear) battery,
3. Connect the negative cable to the starter battery,
4. Connect the negative cable to the consumer battery.
After this is completed, you may need to resynchronize the ESP and side window positions (see pages 341 and 195 respectively).
Hope this helps.
Got the red battery light for the first time, along with a Battery/Alternator red light. Took the car for a 20 mile run, and everything cleared after about 2 miles, with convenience functions all good. I have a plug in double USB unit with a built in voltmeter, and voltage was steady at 14.2v. This morning, the vehicle started without issues, voltage still showing 14.2 or there about, and I used my iCarSoft to do an automatic scan, with no issues found. I then did a manual scan for the first time since I bought the iCarSoft, and any and all errors found were deemed ‘historical’, and I was able to clear them all. I am aware that the consumer battery is dropping below 12v, so will keep an eye on that with my Topdon tester, and fingers crossed, no more red battery light! Finally, a big “Thank you”, as watching your videos, plus your always prompt responses to your followers questions, has given me the confidence to fault find issues that I would have previously stayed well clear of, and that would have likely cost me a lot of time and money!
Hey there, great problem solving solutions my friend, well done for checking the changing voltage, so you know the alternator is good. If it takes 20mins for your convenience error to clear on dash it does sound like rear battery is on its way out yes. When you start the car have a listen, if the front battery is is good it will sound nice and strong and fast. If you do get another battery, I cannot recommend enough genuine Mercedes batteries, they are amazing and don't cost more than the best aftermarket battery. I can leave my car for a month with no starting issues. If none of that stops the red battery error, it will likely just be the fuse behind subwoofer in passenger foot well. Good luck. Let me know and thanks for subscribing🙏
@@GrooveOn …one question if I may - is the voltmeter checking (a) starter battery voltage (b) consumer battery voltage, or (c) system voltage ( a + b)?
@@jeffstewart7045 good question, my little volt meter is wired to the cigarette lighter, I noticed that when I had a weak rear battery and got the convenience not functioning message on dash, my volt meter didn't work. As soon as the error message went my volt meter came on, which tells me it's the rear battery I believe. The front battery is really only for starting, the alternator charges both batteries though. The volt meter when engine on is showing my alternator voltage about 14.1 V. With engine off, my volt meter will be giving me the voltage of rear battery. To test your batteries I would check your voltage drop over a couple of days
@@GrooveOn …that aligns with my thoughts, my cigarette lighter/usb/ voltmeter only kicks in when the convenience functions are back on line…👍
@@jeffstewart7045 good stuff!
I usually do the negative first in case of contact with the body. That way the positive can't touch the earth when disconnecting. Positive goes on first when new one goes in. Good video 👍
interesting, I never really know which way is best to disconnect so appreciate the knowledge mate !
Standard practice is to always disconnect the negative first on a negative earth vehicle so as not to arc weld 800amps across the spanner and blow yourself up by accident
@@jonatday I never know either but I think I read somewhere that disconnecting positive first was recommended by Benz having something to do with the settings not being reset. When I disconnect the negative first I notice I always have to reset the windows. When I do the positive I don’t seem to have to do this.
Thanks for the vid very helpful - I have just bought a 2005 SL350 so starting my now maintenance journey
Enjoy the ride, thanks for following me!
That was a really good result for you! It does make you wonder why Mercedes feel they need a separate battery to feed the starter? It must require all sorts of other electronic bits to co ordinate the main battery in the boot into the system, why not just fit a higher amperage battery, and if the engine starting battery was good enough to turn the engine why would it show up as a fault, that battery would have gone on for another year. On the positive side it is nice to see you have some sunny weather, we have plunged to 32 degs here! Chris B.
Hi there, this is a good question,. The reason for the two batteries is to maintain the level of power needed for all the different computers and electronics. The front starter battery gets trickle charged from the main battery, starting the car uses huge current especially in the cold months, so could deplete the power if there was just one battery,
@@GrooveOn This must be overkill on the part of Mercedes,(or a quest for more profit from selling spares), as your Range Rovers do not have 2 batteries, and they have even more computer junk fitted. Stay dry! Chris B.
thats a fair point ! my Range Rover battery was definitely an issue in winter, I ended up buying the best battery I could find.
Thank you so much for your knowledgeable video you have saved me money and kept me safe from mechanical voltures 😅
Lovely, that's my goal!
awesome video. question.. I have 2004 sl 500 with same issue red battery light on dash visit workshop...code B1829 and B1833. codes won't clear... after testing batteries 12.5 volts sitting and 14.5 votes with car on using alternator. The code B1829 states the fuse under passenger side which is a big project to get to. I'm getting 14.5 volts to both batteries so in my mind that fuse must be good... yes ? Thanks
Looks like you are getting a good charge from the alternator, however the front battery and rear battery are linked through the BCM at the back, so if the fuse has gone behind the sub, it may still look like its charging. What tool are you using to clear the faults, I used my icarsoft and had to manually clear, it wont clear sometimes by itself. If you want to get to the fuse in passenger foot well, I did a video. ruclips.net/video/6MTLPD3x01w/видео.html
Well done. I’ve had a red battery light for a couple of years. Press the menu button and it goes until the next start. Everything works fine. I might look at replacing the batteries. Ps you’re supposed to disconnect the consumer battery before the front one 😮 😉
I know I know, I've had lots of people correct me on the leads oops, at least I learnt from the vid
You are such a cool lad! Keep it up💪🏻
Thanks for the encouragement mate, one man RUclipsr, but get such a buzz if I hear I help people save money and time!!🤟 Thanks so much if you subscribed
Great video, as ever!! One question: is bad to leave the roof nearly allways open? I have my SL in my home garaje, with a complete cover, and I allways drive it with the roof open (I live on Spain) so I use to not close the roof ever.
Now I am envious of you, lo sento ! I would mucho love to live in Espanol ! I would say it's fine to leave the roof down, just cycle it closed now and then to keep the motors and pump good. Adiós.
Hello. Super helpful video. I own a Sl 55amg from 2003. 97k km . Just had that light pop up on my dash after 1.5 months without driving it ( went on holidays) and when back, battery dead… anyway the battery was already from 2014. Replaced for a new one, same as yours and the light still on . Took it to the garage and they told me they need to check it since they could not erase the message ( I’m wondering if they don’t want to milk me).
I would like to buy the icarsoft y ou have to see if I can do the same as you. Could you specify the model and if comes already with the software and cables that is necessary to do what you did?
Also since I changed the batttery the car goes like nothing has ever happened .
Many thanks for the educational videos . Cheers
Hi PedroGoncalves, the SL55 AMG is a lovely car wow. For the iCarSoft I used in the video you can buy a multi car version that you can choose up to 19 models. It's available on my Amazon Store and here is the link: amzn.to/3QRSfgK
(I get a small commission but it doesn't cost you anymore than normal so win win !)
Hi @Grooveon, many thanks for your comments. Cheers and looking forward for more of your videos . Cheers
@@PedroGoncalves-gu1ih p.s. I have a Mercedes playlist on my channel there are loads of SL videos to help you.👍 Mercedes Fixes by GrooveOn: ruclips.net/p/PLIcL6boQ-d8jVnGTSS5Rc21O-7CkMhBZX
Hello very good video very interesting, can you help me I would like to ask you a question: how can we enter a reference of a used battery or there is nothing written on the battery and how to do it? And if I buy a new varta battery, there are not always his numbers how to do it, thank you cordially. Audi q7
hi there, the Mercedes SL unlike say a BMW does not need to have the battery registered, you just install thats it.
Excellent work mate
Thank you! Cheers! Do you have an SL? thanks if you decided to follow me.
@@GrooveOn I follow you. I have a 07 SL 550 with about 83k here in the states. I Watch all your videos. Thank you!
@@xelent1 Our SL's were made for the open roads of the states!
@@GrooveOn yes they were! I was wondering Can you do some maintenance videos on the hardtop.
Very helpful
Glad you think so!, Thanks if you subscribed
Great video man. I'm a diy benz owner myself and have a 2010 w207 e550 coupe. I have been having battery issues for years and the car just keeps killing batteries (thankful for warranty).. they have changed the alternator, the starter, the battery many times and still I am having battery issues. I find the car battery almost dead (12.1v usually) when I start the car with a brand new battery and a very loud higher pitched whine from the alternator that changes with acceleration. On the w207 model there is a mechanic mode where I can read the voltage while driving similar to your cig lighter setup and I noticed that voltage drops to 12 spontaneously while driving and then jumps up to 14v but it seems to sit around mid 13v. The alternator is a 14v so I am wondering if maybe my voltage regulator is bad and that whining noise is the alternator working extra hard to adjust the drops? After watching your video you mentioned the subwoofer in the trunk.. there is a similar setup on the w207 and I notice that when i turn the car off and sit in it for a while I can hear a buzzing from back there that comes and goes. Is that a sign of that resistor you mentioned? It has been doing this for years. I have Icarsoft as well and the only relevant code it gave me was "communication with the battery sensor has a malfunction" not sure what that could be as i've never seen that one and I was charging the battery at the time (maybe that caused it). Sorry for all the words thanks in advance.
The last about not connecting to battery sensor interests me. My car has a BCM battery condition monitor , when they fail, can catch fire and total you car. Have a look if your car had this, it will be near battery, my car has an aux and starter battery, my BCM sits near to rear aux battery
Also does your car need the battery to be advised it's new? Some cars use BMS battery monitor system, new batteries need less current to charge, whilst older batteries use more, so you enter this info in icarsoft
@@GrooveOnI don’t think I have a bcm but the sensor is attached to the negative terminal and I think sends signals to the alternator to work harder or less. I tried to charge the battery and it was almost fully dead after driving all day. I have never had anyone program the new battery and they have all failed within a year maybe that’s my issue? I have the I carsoft like yours can I do this operation off that?
@@Dnasty1 yes you can with icarsoft, I really recommend the original Mercedes battery many people will say the same, use forum's to help you like mb world or Benz world you'll find me there too A1EK is me. You could phone up mercedes parts and just ask them if you bought a battery from them , do you need to program it to car.
I've got the older iCarsoft ( MBII ) and yeah, you can't get a hold of support. I tried updating to the 3.0 code but doesn't work. Doesn't seem much different in yours. Now onto the question - 2005 SL55 - I'm getting intermittent Battery / Visit Workshop and the other night, while on a drive, it came on and shut down my accessories, maybe 2 min later they came back on and all was well. First time that's happened in the 4 years I've owned the SL, used to happen on my E55 when the car sat too long and the accessories would power up a few min into the drive. New batteries about 2 years ago after chasing a slow crank when hot which, 2 weeks after replacing the batteries, the starter locked up so I guess it was the starter all along. So, anyway, no DTC's stored so I'm a bit perplexed.
I've heard the iCsrsoft customer service is not great, hence why I started to do the videos. I had the same slow crank when hot, I had to replace me starter motor, you can do it from under the car, here is my video to help you: ruclips.net/video/Bs4jU21d7_U/видео.html Are your batteries genuine Mercedes? other brands care just not the same, i've had 3 different types in my rear, but since I have fitted the Mercedes genuine not had issues in 3 years ! I wonder if your starter motor is draining the power from the starter front battery? do you lose your convenience functions like heated seats when you see the message on dash?
@@GrooveOn yeah, already did the starter 2 years ago... I did some further diagnistics yesterday. My cranking battery is at 12.67 but my convenience battery was only 11.9v. These are also 2 year old batteries. I put it on my charger with the recovery function and will do some further troubleshooting today. On my E55, there was some sort of pack in the trunk that I replaced that was causing an issue but my buddy the Mercedes Mechanic said the SL is different. I haven't bugged him yet but wondering if you know where the electronics are that regulate the charging power to the rear battery?
@@Eric66MD okay, good so you can rule out the starter as you've changed it. Front battery seems strong, rear battery looks dead though. I believe the BCM battery control monitor is in truck right side behind liner above wheel arch, they are prone to faults and can also short out dangerously
@@GrooveOn Thanks. it's curious that I'm not storing any faults though. I'll be unhappy if it's the battery but it has a pro-rated warranty...
@@Eric66MD have you gone deep into all the menus, there a lot to go through. How long can you leave the car without starting before convenience error on dash? I get a good 3 weeks. Your car may not be sleeping, canbus issues?
hi i just want to ask do you need to register the consumer (rear) battery? i did change the battery (After Market) but 5 to 7 days not using the car the consumer (rear) battery is losing charge (7 volts). hope you or any one can help me. thanks
My light just came on after 3 years ago I replaced the alternator the batteries and voltage Regulator
Thought you had disconnected bout battery first
NEGATIVE always FIRST (out) and LAST in.
What brand and model of diagnostic controller are you using?
the one in the video is iCarSoft, brilliant little tool. I have done many videos on it. amzn.to/43F1Lbq
here is a playlist for icarsoft: studio.ruclips.net/user/playlistPLIcL6boQ-d8j_lKoGdY0HHWWQjfGlrFJr/edit
Thank you...
I have never been able to locate a starter battery for my 2003 SL that would fit into the compartment . Mercedes is the only one do to it's small size . Trust me I have looked long and hard !
I wouldn't buy any other battery for the SL, the Mercedes one is far superior, I have mentioned this many times before, although Varta are the manufacturers of the Mercedes battery the quality that they have to meet for Mercedes standards is second to none I have a Mercedes battery in the rear and the Mercedes battery in the front and they are excellent
I’m having the Same problem the car isn’t start stop do
I still need to get a start stop battery?
there is only one battery you need, get the original Mercedes battery from the dealer, in your front and back you will not be disappointed and your car will thank you for it !
Hi mate, I have this red battery light on plus ABS light now as my starter battery isn't being charged. My mechanic has changed the 100 amp fuse you mentioned.. didn't fix it, he has tested the battery and that was fine. My mechanic is all out of ideas.. do you have any thoughts?
Thanks.
So you changed the fuse behind the sub yeah? Have you checked both front and rear batteries? Did your mechanic clear the fault with his diagnostic as the red light doesn't always go away on its own, you need to clear codes. Are your convenience functions off? I.e heated seats , cigar lighter?
@@GrooveOn thanks for quick reply, yep fuse behind the sub changed, faults cleared with diag, rear battery working fine with a stable voltage and all convenience functions working. Just no charge going to the starter battery.
Great videos by the way!
@@LewisburnsSL interesting so when you put a meter on the front battery cables with engine running you should get 14.1 V is this not the case? are you seeing les around 12.4V? Have you checked your BCM Battery Condition Monitor in the trunk? Talking about the fuse behind the sub its the larger F52f2 fuse 100Amp
Okay mate thank you, I will go and double check those things and come back.
@@GrooveOn so the fuse that has been changed is the F52F1 100amp fuse? The larger one F52F2 is the 200amp fuse.. should I try replacing that?
hi what error message were you getting originally?
what if it's just a red battery coming on and off every once and while and no code?
The error message was as shown in the video 'visit workshop '
@@GrooveOn you had a different icon on top of the battery ? was there a message on top of the battery icon/ and when you were getting it was it incessant or was it sporadic?
Hi I'm bit confused sorry, the error on my right dash was visit workshop, left was battery icon and speed above it all in red .
The error was constant
yes you had speed/km on top of the battery icon what year is your mercedes ?@@GrooveOn i only got the battery icon coming on and off
@@fredrezfield1629Yes I have km there. if you look at this video I show all the menus.
ruclips.net/video/XymdY4DVwmo/видео.html
Year is 2004, 2003 older models had different settings, e.g. I can automatically fold Mirrors when locked car, or operate roof from remote
Can you clear the SRS code with this OBD?
Yes, icarsoft will clear it
i had no choice it was an emergency and i had to use my sl to jump start a hyundai and the red battery sign came up.
Fuse
Hello
600 dollars??