Do you have a burning question you want answered in the GCN Tech clinic? Leave it in the comments below using the #AskGCNTech and we'll answer it in a future episode!
Hi folks! I got a brand new 2020 Cannondale SupersixEvo (about 500km ridden so far - already submitted to the bike vault 😉) and I am hearing a clicking noise every time my left foot reaches the bottom of the pedal stroke. I took the bike to my lbs, the replaced a bearing (but did not explain further) but the noise remains. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks! #AskGCNTech
Hi Ollie, so I've recently got into cycling, brought myself a canyon roadlite (which is a hybrid bike), I'm now starting to wish I had gotten a drop bar bike. I've seen others who have converted this specific bike and am thinking of making the switch, would you recommend I go ahead with the conversion or stick with it as it is? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNtech, hi would it be relatively straight forward to upgrade to Udi2, from ultegra mech on my 2020 Trek Madone. I’m a big fan of the integrated cabling I’ve got now, would that remain the same by upgrading? Thanks
Ollie, you are the best man! Your episodes are always so fantastic, someone who doesn’t take himself too seriously, not afraid to admit having made mistakes, yet wonderfully insightful, honest and thorough in his answers. Keep up the excellent work, love your presentations.
My powermeter on two sides told me I went from 49/51 to 39/61 over an 8 month period while my lumbar region from L3 - S1 seriously degenerated. Pretty helpful to be able to characterize what is happening and also what therapies actually work to restore order. Surely not everyone need this, but some of us benefit immensely from this.
Di2 draining guy - I’d recommend checking that wireless unit again. My BMC Raodmachine started losing charge last year, about 6 months after fitting a new Shimano wireless unit. The shop discovered that the unit had developed a fault. I returned it and received a replacement under warranty and have not had any discharging problems since.
How about no-sided. Cause I'm poor Edit: man, this episode covers almost everything I've been wondering about in the past 2 weeks! Coincidence? 🤔 Thanks GCN!
as a matter of fact, there is a no-sided power meter. Velocomp Powerpod is its name. I can't vouch for its accuracy, but claims that Velocomp makes are quite ambitious.
Power pod is using air pressure. So I wouldn't expect it to be great at immediate response to short efforts like a direct force power meter. Would be better for fine tuning aero position than normal power meter use
What about all the issues surrounding inaccurate drive side power meter readings on Shimano cranksets? It's fairly well documented so I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned here. Also, even if there is a slight physiological discrepancy between left and right it doesn't really matter; at the end of the day most people use power meters for training purposes and so the actual value is almost irrelevant, it's more about consistency. On that basis a left sided crank based power meter more than fulfils the requirements.
Made a similar comment about the right side issue. As whats the point of a more "accurate" dual sided pm if they have an inherent flaw to hsve accuracy issues on the right side
Exactly. My one-sided stages is within 1 watt of my smart trainer whereas the two-sides Giant Power Pro that came with my bike always reads 3-4% higher than both. It makes the bike seem slow.
@@jamesmiller5318 What is your opinion of the Stages vs 4iiii since you have used both? Even though I'm a much older cyclist I'm considering a power meter for self improvement. Do you think a dual would be more beneficial?
@@TexasNightRider Short answer - both excellent. If I was shopping today I'd probably for for the 4iiii for a couple of reasons 1) rechargeable battery 2) if you do have a known L/R imbalance (which is VERY common) you can correct for this via the app. I find this helps if you have more than one power meter of different types. I don't really see any point in dual sided at all, especially not for the average punter.
For the di2 battery drain question. Check using the e-tube app that the wireless unit is set to communicate via ant+ only and not low energy Bluetooth. That will drain the battery really quickly if it is continuously looking for a device to connect to.
On the tires question, I have sciatica and bought an endurance bike for the same reasons (Canton Endurace). It came with 28c tires, but I swapped them out for 32c Specialized Roubaix tires (running tubeless). They’re much more comfortable and feel grippier on corners and climbs. I have a lot of bad/choppy roads around my house and it’s made a big difference.
Hi Ollie. That question from Mike Ellington about his Di2 battery draining quickly, the exact same thing happened to me on my 6800 series Di2 after 6 months. Luckily I have a very good local bikeshop with a mechanic who is an expert in everything bike related. They had a it a couple days, diagnostics showed no fault but battery went flat in the shop so he determined that it is an intermittent fault. They kept it for a week or two and went through a process of elimination by charging up and then isolating each component to see if it went flat. Eventually found the last component was at fault, the rear derailleur. As under warranty, Shimano replaced immediately and problem fixed. Later testing found a fault with a circuit board or something in the RD. I hope that helps. Mark
Real question on power meter is how accurately do you want to measure your effort? Are you developing detailed training plans based on power? Will a 10% error in the number make a difference? Some dual sided are actually less accurate than single sided because of issues introduced by crankset asymmetries. Or you could have total power measured at the rear hub and not care about sidedness of power
Di2 Battery issue, if you use the wireless unit to connect to your head unit, make sure you completely power off your head unit when finished with a ride. Leaving head unit in sleep mode (like walking away with it on) can keep a connection open to Di2 this draining the battery.
One of the main advantages to Campagnolo EPS aside from being Campagnolo is that it has an actual magnetic switch so you don't need to worry about phantom power drains or random pressing of the shift buttons
Before getting a dual-sided power meter I had been always wondering why my power on a bike was lower at the same perceived effort as on a smart trainer. It just so happens that my right leg is stronger, as I am a leftie. I am consistently getting 48/52% discrepancy, which perfectly coincides with the difference between a single-sided Stages and a Saris Hammer built-in power meter.
Discrepancy can increase with fatigue. Some riders favor their strong leg even more, when they are tired at the end of a long ride, or even at the end of a hard interval.
Thanks for answering the question in the video title first! The quality of your content is high enough that people will watch the rest anyways, I think.
Tires can make a huge difference. A year and a half ago I got a new bike that came with Clement Strada LGG 28x700c and rode it twice (same loop). Swapped them out for Continental GP4000ii 28x700c. Same ride, same tire pressure, same effort = 3.5 kph faster on the Continentals. Also, I have found the bicyclerollingresistance website to be a great resource for tire rolling resistance (and other metrics like puncture resistance) comparisons. They take a tire (eg GP 4000ii or Marathon) and measure the rolling resistance of each width available (23c, 25c, 28c, 32c) at various pressures. They also include a general review of the tire as well.
My solution for reasonably priced power measurement was a power pod. Very cheap compared to the alternatives and gives me figures that are consistent enough to my turbo trainer that I don't feel the need to upgrade anytime soon.
Really nice and honest video mate. I loved how you over extend your answers and an boil them all down to all the possibilities. Ive learned so much just from this video than tens of other videos combined. Thanks lots.
Di2 battery drain issue: one more possibility is the app as I noticed you mentioned using the Bluetooth add on. In the app you MUST press disconnect Bluetooth before closing it or pressing any buttons on the di2 system. Don’t just close the app after doing stuff as it leaves it in Bluetooth searching mode on the bike and will drain in 2-3 days just searching for connection. Bluetooth LE disconnect button on main page in app once connected. Any more info just ask
The early 10 speed Di2 had a bad batch of front junction boxes that flattened batteries in a day or two. This didn't show up on the Shimano diagnostic system and it took my local Shimano importer 3 or 4 unsuccessful attempts to diagnose it before I threatened legal action if they didn't replace the junction box. I didn't have any problems after they reluctantly did this. The other factor to take into account when comparing Ultegra Di2 and Dura Ace mechanical is warranty. 2 years for Ultegra and 3 for Dura Ace. this may be an issue if you are paying for your bike yourself. After saying that the junction box is the only warranty problem I have ever had with Shimano which tends to be annoyingly reliable (few excuses for upgrades, other than "I want it")
RE: cheap chainrings, I've had good results with Stone brand direct mount narrow wide rings for single ring set ups but I agree with Ollie if you're planning on using a front derailleur.
I had the same problem with my DI2 (drains in about a couple of days/week). Turns out the internals of one the shifters was corroded and create a high resistance short circuit that would drain the battery. The LBS opened up the shifter, cleaned it all out and now it is fine. It only took a year for them to figure it out.
Re: "one sided" power meters - it's worth clarifying that what's being talked about here is one sided *crank-based* power meters. Spider-based power meters (e.g. P2M, quarq, SRM etc) are "one sided" in a sense, but obviously integrate the torque from both cranks because they are measuring it where it is delivered to the drivetrain. It's only with crank-based meters (or one-sided pedal-based ones, if such things exist), where torque is being measured in the crank arm itself, where having a one sided as opposed to two sided will use power from one leg only. That won't be obvious to a lot of people who are new to power meters.
Rim brakes may be on fewer and fewer new bikes, but you'll be able to buy replacements and spares for a good while yet. Mountain bikes have had disc brakes for a lot longer, but it's still possible to buy cantilever and v-brakes.
Regarding Di2 battery drain: Wife's bike had a sudden battery drain problem a while back and I thought for sure it would be a bad battery (still under warranty). Took to shop for diagnostic and they found no faults with any component, but did a firmware update because one was available. No problems with battery drain after that. BTW, as Ollie said, the Di2 battery should last for months between charges even with multiple rides per week.
I used my dual sided power meter to fit my bike. I have had a broken femur and this caused my right leg to be shorter. I started adding shims until the power is back to 50/50
I would answer the power meter question with: It depends on whether you need to measure your power against others, or if it's just against yourself. If against others, go for a dual one, and verify it with another form of power meter, if against yourself, as long as it's an accurate meter, use a single sided one. It'll stay accurate to your own power regardless of which leg is stronger. As for psychologically pressing harder on one pedal than the other, try it for five minutes up hill, see how long you can keep it up, or try it in a sprint and see how close you get to your KOM.
Interesting about the thought of a discrepancy and having a larger leg (side with power meter), my left leg is weaker than my right and has smaller quads, seems to be slightly shorter, my stronger leg is my right leg. Had a stages power meter since 2015
#askgcntech I have a suggestion for the guy suffering with di2 battery drain, my system was doing exactly this for quite some time and it was really frustrating, it turned out to be my left hand shifter shorting out inside somewhere, I've now got a new shifter and it's all sorted, I figured this out by fully charging the battery and then unplugging each component one at a time and leaving over night to see if it was still draining, process of elimination.
Hi guys, love the channel. Currently I’ve a 11-28 casette but I’m looking for some new set of wheels with 11-30 casette in the back. The question is: do I need a new longer chain if I go from 11-28 to 11-30 casette? #AskGCNTech
You should test dual vs single, what really worries me is that fluctuations in power are greater in single sided and that can affect sticking to training plans
I have Ultegra 8020 shifters on my gravel bike. On a ride Sunday, I had the pivot cover rattle loose and the single tiny screw that holds this on has disappeared. I have the plastic cover, but I will need to find a replacement for this tiny screw. Any suggestions on where to get this or at least find the size and thread pitch?
Regarding Di2 battery drain. i notice if i hang my bike from the top tube it can drain the battery within a couple of days. If i hang from the front rim vertically its fine. i guess hanging may cause it to stay on.
Im biased since I have a single side but wouldnt the most important aspect of a pm be consistency? Even if theres a tiny discrepancy between legs the power percentage increase/decrease and effort would be the same. The price for dual sided doesnt seem worth it imo
This current gen of shimano crank sets also has an inherent flaw when measuring power on the right side. Gplama did a indepth test on it. So by going dual sided you could introduce more inaccuries if it is a shimano based pm. Which is the opposite most people are trying to do.
@_Finley_ Ultegra DI2! DI2 is way easier to work on, clean, maintain, etc. Also Part replacements on ultegra down the road are wayyy more affordable. I also swear by the durability of ultegra cassettes over dura ace. I've gotten way more miles out of Ultegra than Dura Ace in terms of durability
Hello, hi! Which plays a bigger factor in terms of comfort, Saddle or bib shorts? And I am looking for an excuse to upgrade the suggested. Ive got a few decent mid-tier bibs and mid-tier Prologo saddle. Its time for a treat so which would you recommend upgrading? Thanks, bye!
I have an assioma uno and I had to do a 12% discrepancy in order to match my smart trainer power. Otherwise it would measure like 20w lower. So definitely helps to have something to calibrate it.
I did the same v my Keiser spin bike but how do you which one is accurate? Luckily for me they were within 2 watts. From Keiser ..........”First and foremost the M3 is not a ergometer nor is it priced like one. Power is an estimate. The price and our maximum usage (group exercise) dictate that it is not for testing and it cannot be calibrated. Though we do have some people that have used it with an IMET test when a bike is more preferential than a treadmill. One thing not mentioned below is magnet strength, they are consistent and do not weaken over the life of the bike. . Watts are calculated from the gear setting. A potentiometer is attached to the magnet holder (the round cone shaped disc at the end of the shifter cable). As the shifter is moved, the cable rotates the magnet holder. A potentiometer is rotated by the rotation of the magnet holder, thus feeding information to the computer on the position of the magnet holder. The rotation of the potentiometer is broken down into 24 gear settings. A dynamometer was used to test and develop a table of wattage at various gear settings and speeds. The speed of the crank is determined by a magnet attached to the large pulley on the right crank arm and a magnetic switch attached to the circuit board in the magnet holder assembly. Each time the magnet on the pulley passes by the magnetic switch, a signal is sent to the computer to compute the RPM's of the crank arm. Power equals force times velocity. The force is determined by the magnet position and the speed by the crank speed. The lookup table is programmed into the computer and the computer simply looks at the gear setting and speed and goes to the lookup table to find and display the Watts for those two settings.”
Nope, don’t think so. I’m using it with a garmin and the battery did not drain any faster than without one. I’m only need to charge it a couple of times a year.
First couple of weeks I had my new bike with Di2, the battery drained really quickly. Within 2 weeks the battery was drained. But since then, the battery has lasted several months on a charge. Have no idea what happened.
Would it be possible to make a video about cyclocross tires with J-Pow? I’m getting a cyclocross bike but I’m a bit lost in the different tread patterns and wether to put different tires front and rear
I've recently attempted a local 10TT course, just to gauge my fitness level against other riders. I was about 5 mins off the quickest time! I was riding a Cube Attain pro disc bike, so not aero! Therefore my question is how much time difference can a full TT bike & kit set up take off my finishing time? So I can compare my result against other riders times! #AskGCNTech
The difference between a standard road bike and a full on TT bike is huge! As soon as you add clip on bars to a standard road bike and get into a more 'Time Trial' like position, the difference shrinks massively! Position is by far the most important thing - so if you can replicate a TT position on your road bike, you're 80% of the way there.
I got some new carbon bars. They have grippy areas for the stem and shifters, however the areas for the shifters are too far around the drops so the shifters feel like they're pointing down. Is it ok to just attach the shifters further up, away from the grippy spots? Just want to make sure there are reinforced areas I need to stick to for attaching them.
Dear GCN Commenters, for the last 4 years I road a 10 year old Aluminium bike which i bought for 300€, but since last year the bike is basically to small for me but i wanted to wait to save up some more money. I now have ~2.500 € and i’m wondering if you have tips and recommendations for my new ride.
I’m replacing the original bottom bracket bearings in my Trek Emonda (BB90). Should I install the new bearings with grease on the outside of the outer races or with a Loctite retaining compound? I don’t think I’m having any issues with proper fit/creaking of the bearings within the frame, one of them just got rusty and gritty. The creak/fit issue seems to be why folks recommend Loctite. What do you do to install if fit/creak is not an issue? Thanks for the show. Watch it every week and love you guys. #AskGCN
In April I upgraded my 10 year old Cervelo R3 to an all ultegra groupset. I live by the ocean and keep my bike indoors when its not in use. Unfortunately, I have noticed that all of the components, screws, etc... are constantly coated with salt and starting to rust. All of the local bike shops have a wait time of 2+ weeks for a tuneup and I can't bear to be without my bike that long. I have tried cleaning the bike myself using GCN videos, however the problem still remains. Do you have any recommendations on how to prevent (and remove) salt corrosion and rust? #AskGCNTech
Hi ollie, As awlays, and enjoyable and informative episode! Could you give us a short clip on master/quick links would be good. E.G. Why use them, ease of fitting? How often can you re-use them? I'm from Nunthorpe in Yorkshire so the last one is an important factor!
If for 11 speed most of them are technically not reusable. But you can get away reusing them 3-5 times or so at least in my experience. And for me its definitely a ease of taking things off.
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie its been half a year since im in to cycling and watching GCN videos and I am about to buy my 1st road bike but on a budget What should, i choose an 8 speed bike with better frame or an shimano 105 bike with lesser frame quality?
I have discrepancy with my right being stronger. If my single sided power meter subliminally makes my left work harder, then I might fix my leg discrepancy?
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie as I have been riding more lately I have been getting a lot more punctures and was wondering if I could convert my normal clincher rim to tubless without having to buy new rims thanks.
Its very much a hack it can be dont but its alot harder on road rims then it is on say mountain bike. Road tubeless can be quite the pain at times on tubeless ready rims. I believe there are kits out there to try and convert but results specailly on road rims are iffy
A power meter is a training tool. A single-sided meter is internally consistent. It allows you to track your training perfectly well. It allows you to pace your ride. What more do you need? In addition, there are serious questions about the accuracy of ANY duel-sided power meters implemented on Shimano cranks. Your answer is poor. I had the Di2 draining problem and it was an issue with a connection. That was two years ago, no problems since. I definitely agree, Ultegra Di2 over Dura Ace mechanical, having spent considerable time with both.
Hi ! This is now 4 years that I bought a shimano 5700 105 Stages power meter (single sided) and it work really well for me !! But, I recently upgraded my groupset with a shimano ultregra R8000, which then has a different color than my 105 power meter. Just wonderring then, is it possible to repaint the crank in order to match the color of the crankset (of course without painting all the tech inside the crank) without compromising the accuracy of the power meter ?? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech I have rotor aldhu cranks and they creak and fall apart on me. Most recently I broke the crank bolt, it tore apart and my drive side crank arm just fell of on a highway. Before that I replaced that bolt as the cranks were making noise and when investigating I found the washers all chewed up. What could be causing this? I use a torque wrench to get the correct torque on the cranks and lube everything. I don't output much power and I am lost as to why I am breaking them.
I haven't seen 180mm dual sided power meters available. That's why I have single sided (non-drive side). I doubt the subconscience idea works for me since my left leg is significantly weaker than my right.
I have to smile when the rim vs disc brake debate pops up (and keeps popping up) with the issue of weight. Comparing the weight difference of Ultegra R8000 rim vs discs (shifters, rotors & callipers). Disc system is 233g heavier. If your bike weighs 7.0kg in rim brake version means disc is 7.233kg (assuming same wheel/trye combo on both). Taking the whole bike weight into account, means it it is 1.03% heavier as a disc version. Surely such a small difference is negligible compared to having better modulation, stopping power, grip, ride comfort. But really when calculating you should include the riders weight as well. When you do this the percentage gets ridiculously small.
Ey up Ollie, im from Yorkshire like yourself but travelled to the lake district for the first time(cycling) at the weekend. I did The Struggle and Blea Tarn on a 34 - 28 lowest gear. I was thinking of tackling hardknott pass soon and wondered if fitting a 30 or 32 on the rear cassette would be possible and work fine with the rear deraileur? i have 11 speed ultegra on the bike. Thanks pal. #AskGCNTech
Hello gcn tech, I would like to know if there is such a thing as electronic/electrical/wireless brake now with abs on a road bike and will it matter in terms of responsiveness and weight? Or this is just my imagination? Thank you.
#AskGCNTech hey I was in crash (I am okay) and my Shimano Claris STI left lever moved over. I was wondering how to adjust it over to the correct position. Also, should I replace my helmet even though I didn’t land on my head? Luckily I was about a mile away from home. Will a higher quality tire have more grip on the wet surface?
#AskGCNTech I understand Ollie’s been at Decathlon, but I would like to ask if it would be better to upgrade my current cheap hybrid bike’s groupset and go to drop bars (currently a 7-speed Shimano Tourney with cable-actuated disc brakes on narrow-ish flat bars) over buying a brand new RC 120 Touring Bike? Looking to use it on my daily commute and transition to drop bars. My current bike also feels like it is right at the edge of how large my bike should be.
I've been struggling with rear brake rub on my Cervelo R3 with Ultegra R8000 dual pivot brakes. I get the caliper centered and the pads not rubbing in the stand, but it seems by the time I'm in the middle of the first ride one of the pads is rubbing again. I believe the bolt attaching the brake to the frame is tightened correctly. What am I to do? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hi Olly, I am looking for a new bike and I am looking into the trek Emonda SL 6 Pro. Now I found out that the difference between the SL 6 pro and SL 6 is only 200grams in weight but €500 in price. On their site they're saying that all the parts are exactly the same except for the wheels. But they only cost €200 more and have a weight difference of only 10 gram. Do you know what causes the weight loss and increase in Price?
Hey Ollie and Manon. I have been strictly a Shimano chain guy for years, only thing I'd put on my bikes. However, recently I've tried KMC, because of the gold chain 🤜🤛. I have noticed that the KMCs are wearing slower. What can you suggest for an explanation? Are they made with tighter tolerances to begin with? Made of better material? #askGCNtech
#AskGCNTech Hey Ollie and/or Manon. Question of aerodynamics. If I were to buy a TT bike with 35 mm deep wheels and I would want an upgrade, would it be better to get a disc wheel on the back and keep the stock wheel on the front, or should I rather get an 80 mm wheelset and not get the disc. Thanks for all the help in this show, I love it.
#AskGCNtech, hi would it be relatively straight forward to upgrade to Udi2, from ultegra mech on my 2020 Trek Madone. I’m a big fan of the integrated cabling I’ve got now, would that remain the same by upgrading? Thanks
Hey all! Im currently riding a rim brake bike (2 years old) and im thinking to upgrade my current alu wheels to a carbon set. Is it still worth doing? The wheels im looking for are the Campagnolo WTO 45 or 60's. By the way I'm slim and tall, any suggestions? #askGCNTech
similar doubts regarding Di2 and mechanical. But I will go mechanic, because more and more we ear guys having problems with their batteries after 2 years. I don't want to be spending money on a batery every 2 years. And then, its something else that we need to have in mind that has to be fully charged. Because we see that you have half batery (before leaving home) but as the batery gets older and losing properties, you could end up with your batery fully drained before you get home. And then what? I would really really like to go with the Di2 option, but I fear that batery technologie is not there yet. For competition it is perfect, but for the average user, I fear not. Cheers.
Personally I don't care about power meters, starve and these things. I ride for fun. And power meters and all those things take away the fun in it I think. At least it does for me. Are Di2 and Etap better than EPS form Campagnolo? I always liked the EPS system.
Vegan cyclist does a more relevant video on dual sided v single sided. Convinced me to buy single sided. Maybe if you have an injury to one leg it’s relevant otherwise as long as the numbers are consistent, single sided is great
Favero assioma Uno. Works brilliantly all the time. I struggled to decide because of all the options and reviews putting me off some but I can say I've never had any issues with it in a year. And one-sided is plenty good unless you're pro and get your kit free.
Agree - brilliant bit of kit. I know my left leg is a bit stronger from the Watt bike but so what? Also whenever I have tried to even up on the Wattbike it takes a lot of concentration. Even for a few minutes so no way I am going to do this on even a short ride on the road even if I had Duo.
Rim Brakes: for now, second hand Rim brake wheels etc are probably cheap because of all people converting to Disc Brakes, and as such a good buy for a number of years. (Until Rim brake bikes become vintage)
#AskGCNTech Hi gcn I just got my first road bike and I want to have a way to GPS track it in case it gets stolen. I know locks are the best way to prevent theft but good locks are bulky and heavy; any thief can break a lock bike in less than a minute (depending on the lock). Would you get a GPS and a lock or just a high quality lock. If you said lock then what lock would you recommend And if you said GPS what would you recommend Thank you DJ
#AskGCNTech i am using a campagnolo centaur 11 speed groupset, and im looking for some new wheels. Does it matter if i use a campagnolo cassette or a shimano? (I dont Think all hubs can fit a campagnolo cassette on it)
Shimano 11 spd and Campagnolo 11 spd cassettes are close enough in most cases to be compatible. If you buy a wheel with a Shimano/sram freehub and use a Shimano cassette it should work decently. Although my preference is to go with either a Campagnolo wheelset or a wheelset that has or can be converted to Campagnolo cassette compatible
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie, after nice ride (5 flats in 20km) I switched from Schwalbe Pro to Pirelli Cinturato tubless and so far no issues at all, but now I have half-empty saddle bag. I go for 150km on average per ride and I wonder what should I carry with me now, multitool obviously, but I guess spare tube isn't necessary, small bottle with extra sealant instead? Cheers and keep up the good helpful show :)
Do you have a burning question you want answered in the GCN Tech clinic? Leave it in the comments below using the #AskGCNTech and we'll answer it in a future episode!
Hi folks! I got a brand new 2020 Cannondale SupersixEvo (about 500km ridden so far - already submitted to the bike vault 😉) and I am hearing a clicking noise every time my left foot reaches the bottom of the pedal stroke. I took the bike to my lbs, the replaced a bearing (but did not explain further) but the noise remains. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks! #AskGCNTech
Where have all the tools gone!?
#AskGCNTech - Where have all the tools gone!?
Hi Ollie, so I've recently got into cycling, brought myself a canyon roadlite (which is a hybrid bike), I'm now starting to wish I had gotten a drop bar bike. I've seen others who have converted this specific bike and am thinking of making the switch, would you recommend I go ahead with the conversion or stick with it as it is? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNtech, hi would it be relatively straight forward to upgrade to Udi2, from ultegra mech on my 2020 Trek Madone. I’m a big fan of the integrated cabling I’ve got now, would that remain the same by upgrading? Thanks
I have had a single and never even thought about over emphasizing that side.
That's why he said subconscious. Because you don't think about it.
You're subconscious is forcing you to ignore then 10 size difference in your left leg lol
Ollie, you are the best man! Your episodes are always so fantastic, someone who doesn’t take himself too seriously, not afraid to admit having made mistakes, yet wonderfully insightful, honest and thorough in his answers. Keep up the excellent work, love your presentations.
Olly still hasn't brought all the tools back from home.
My powermeter on two sides told me I went from 49/51 to 39/61 over an 8 month period while my lumbar region from L3 - S1 seriously degenerated. Pretty helpful to be able to characterize what is happening and also what therapies actually work to restore order. Surely not everyone need this, but some of us benefit immensely from this.
Did you get it treated?
Di2 draining guy - I’d recommend checking that wireless unit again. My BMC Raodmachine started losing charge last year, about 6 months after fitting a new Shimano wireless unit. The shop discovered that the unit had developed a fault. I returned it and received a replacement under warranty and have not had any discharging problems since.
How about no-sided. Cause I'm poor
Edit: man, this episode covers almost everything I've been wondering about in the past 2 weeks! Coincidence? 🤔 Thanks GCN!
training by heart rate and perceived effort is plenty good for lots of people
as a matter of fact, there is a no-sided power meter. Velocomp Powerpod is its name. I can't vouch for its accuracy, but claims that Velocomp makes are quite ambitious.
Power pod is using air pressure. So I wouldn't expect it to be great at immediate response to short efforts like a direct force power meter. Would be better for fine tuning aero position than normal power meter use
@@IraklyShanidze00X I suppose Hub and spindle power meters are technically "no-sided" as well
Thankyou very much for answering my question Ollie!
What about all the issues surrounding inaccurate drive side power meter readings on Shimano cranksets? It's fairly well documented so I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned here. Also, even if there is a slight physiological discrepancy between left and right it doesn't really matter; at the end of the day most people use power meters for training purposes and so the actual value is almost irrelevant, it's more about consistency. On that basis a left sided crank based power meter more than fulfils the requirements.
Made a similar comment about the right side issue. As whats the point of a more "accurate" dual sided pm if they have an inherent flaw to hsve accuracy issues on the right side
I have a Stages single side, a 4iii single side, a Qarq dual side and a Shimano DA dual side. The Shimano is by far the least accurate.
Exactly. My one-sided stages is within 1 watt of my smart trainer whereas the two-sides Giant Power Pro that came with my bike always reads 3-4% higher than both. It makes the bike seem slow.
@@jamesmiller5318 What is your opinion of the Stages vs 4iiii since you have used both? Even though I'm a much older cyclist I'm considering a power meter for self improvement. Do you think a dual would be more beneficial?
@@TexasNightRider Short answer - both excellent. If I was shopping today I'd probably for for the 4iiii for a couple of reasons 1) rechargeable battery 2) if you do have a known L/R imbalance (which is VERY common) you can correct for this via the app. I find this helps if you have more than one power meter of different types. I don't really see any point in dual sided at all, especially not for the average punter.
For the di2 battery drain question. Check using the e-tube app that the wireless unit is set to communicate via ant+ only and not low energy Bluetooth. That will drain the battery really quickly if it is continuously looking for a device to connect to.
Can you guys do a video on cheap deep section wheels versus expensive
Just Google Hambini aero wheel test, for the most independent review on the net.
Thank you
I would do that but I want to see GCN personal preference
On the tires question, I have sciatica and bought an endurance bike for the same reasons (Canton Endurace). It came with 28c tires, but I swapped them out for 32c Specialized Roubaix tires (running tubeless). They’re much more comfortable and feel grippier on corners and climbs. I have a lot of bad/choppy roads around my house and it’s made a big difference.
Thanks for answering my question!!! You are the best!!! I really appreciate this channel and all the information you provide.
Looking at the Favero Assioma and this video reinforced my decision to go with dual sided, thanks GCN!
Compariring my Garmin Vector 3 pedals to my Assioma pedals, I actually like the Favero Assiomas in every way except looks.
As a strain gauge designer/manufacturer I can tell you now that there is no need for a double sided power meter unless your a professional cyclist.
Hi Ollie. That question from Mike Ellington about his Di2 battery draining quickly, the exact same thing happened to me on my 6800 series Di2 after 6 months. Luckily I have a very good local bikeshop with a mechanic who is an expert in everything bike related. They had a it a couple days, diagnostics showed no fault but battery went flat in the shop so he determined that it is an intermittent fault. They kept it for a week or two and went through a process of elimination by charging up and then isolating each component to see if it went flat. Eventually found the last component was at fault, the rear derailleur. As under warranty, Shimano replaced immediately and problem fixed. Later testing found a fault with a circuit board or something in the RD.
I hope that helps.
Mark
Real question on power meter is how accurately do you want to measure your effort? Are you developing detailed training plans based on power? Will a 10% error in the number make a difference? Some dual sided are actually less accurate than single sided because of issues introduced by crankset asymmetries. Or you could have total power measured at the rear hub and not care about sidedness of power
Di2 Battery issue, if you use the wireless unit to connect to your head unit, make sure you completely power off your head unit when finished with a ride. Leaving head unit in sleep mode (like walking away with it on) can keep a connection open to Di2 this draining the battery.
“Good quality stuff is generally better quality” 9:45
to quote thundercats. SIGHT BEYOND SIGHT
One of the main advantages to Campagnolo EPS aside from being Campagnolo is that it has an actual magnetic switch so you don't need to worry about phantom power drains or random pressing of the shift buttons
Before getting a dual-sided power meter I had been always wondering why my power on a bike was lower at the same perceived effort as on a smart trainer. It just so happens that my right leg is stronger, as I am a leftie. I am consistently getting 48/52% discrepancy, which perfectly coincides with the difference between a single-sided Stages and a Saris Hammer built-in power meter.
Discrepancy can increase with fatigue. Some riders favor their strong leg even more, when they are tired at the end of a long ride, or even at the end of a hard interval.
Thanks for answering the question in the video title first! The quality of your content is high enough that people will watch the rest anyways, I think.
Tires can make a huge difference. A year and a half ago I got a new bike that came with Clement Strada LGG 28x700c and rode it twice (same loop). Swapped them out for Continental GP4000ii 28x700c. Same ride, same tire pressure, same effort = 3.5 kph faster on the Continentals.
Also, I have found the bicyclerollingresistance website to be a great resource for tire rolling resistance (and other metrics like puncture resistance) comparisons. They take a tire (eg GP 4000ii or Marathon) and measure the rolling resistance of each width available (23c, 25c, 28c, 32c) at various pressures. They also include a general review of the tire as well.
My solution for reasonably priced power measurement was a power pod. Very cheap compared to the alternatives and gives me figures that are consistent enough to my turbo trainer that I don't feel the need to upgrade anytime soon.
Really nice and honest video mate.
I loved how you over extend your answers and an boil them all down to all the possibilities.
Ive learned so much just from this video than tens of other videos combined.
Thanks lots.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Di2 battery drain issue: one more possibility is the app as I noticed you mentioned using the Bluetooth add on. In the app you MUST press disconnect Bluetooth before closing it or pressing any buttons on the di2 system. Don’t just close the app after doing stuff as it leaves it in Bluetooth searching mode on the bike and will drain in 2-3 days just searching for connection. Bluetooth LE disconnect button on main page in app once connected. Any more info just ask
The early 10 speed Di2 had a bad batch of front junction boxes that flattened batteries in a day or two. This didn't show up on the Shimano diagnostic system and it took my local Shimano importer 3 or 4 unsuccessful attempts to diagnose it before I threatened legal action if they didn't replace the junction box. I didn't have any problems after they reluctantly did this.
The other factor to take into account when comparing Ultegra Di2 and Dura Ace mechanical is warranty. 2 years for Ultegra and 3 for Dura Ace. this may be an issue if you are paying for your bike yourself. After saying that the junction box is the only warranty problem I have ever had with Shimano which tends to be annoyingly reliable (few excuses for upgrades, other than "I want it")
RE: cheap chainrings, I've had good results with Stone brand direct mount narrow wide rings for single ring set ups but I agree with Ollie if you're planning on using a front derailleur.
I use an ultegra di2 and a 105 group. I go back on a weekly basis, both groups are fine. Electronic shifting is smile inducing, but that's it.
I had the same problem with my DI2 (drains in about a couple of days/week). Turns out the internals of one the shifters was corroded and create a high resistance short circuit that would drain the battery. The LBS opened up the shifter, cleaned it all out and now it is fine. It only took a year for them to figure it out.
Re: "one sided" power meters - it's worth clarifying that what's being talked about here is one sided *crank-based* power meters. Spider-based power meters (e.g. P2M, quarq, SRM etc) are "one sided" in a sense, but obviously integrate the torque from both cranks because they are measuring it where it is delivered to the drivetrain. It's only with crank-based meters (or one-sided pedal-based ones, if such things exist), where torque is being measured in the crank arm itself, where having a one sided as opposed to two sided will use power from one leg only. That won't be obvious to a lot of people who are new to power meters.
1:43 The look when Ollie imagines someone with an absolutely massive left leg and tries not to laugh. Brilliant.
Rim brakes may be on fewer and fewer new bikes, but you'll be able to buy replacements and spares for a good while yet. Mountain bikes have had disc brakes for a lot longer, but it's still possible to buy cantilever and v-brakes.
Regarding Di2 battery drain: Wife's bike had a sudden battery drain problem a while back and I thought for sure it would be a bad battery (still under warranty). Took to shop for diagnostic and they found no faults with any component, but did a firmware update because one was available. No problems with battery drain after that. BTW, as Ollie said, the Di2 battery should last for months between charges even with multiple rides per week.
I used my dual sided power meter to fit my bike. I have had a broken femur and this caused my right leg to be shorter. I started adding shims until the power is back to 50/50
I would answer the power meter question with: It depends on whether you need to measure your power against others, or if it's just against yourself. If against others, go for a dual one, and verify it with another form of power meter, if against yourself, as long as it's an accurate meter, use a single sided one. It'll stay accurate to your own power regardless of which leg is stronger. As for psychologically pressing harder on one pedal than the other, try it for five minutes up hill, see how long you can keep it up, or try it in a sprint and see how close you get to your KOM.
On tires - I end up flatting a lot whenever I try to run anything less than a 25c tire. I prefer a 28c if the clearance is there.
"If you accidently cut the cable, which I've done once, that could drain the battery quickly." Classic Ollie
Interesting about the thought of a discrepancy and having a larger leg (side with power meter), my left leg is weaker than my right and has smaller quads, seems to be slightly shorter, my stronger leg is my right leg. Had a stages power meter since 2015
#askgcntech I have a suggestion for the guy suffering with di2 battery drain, my system was doing exactly this for quite some time and it was really frustrating, it turned out to be my left hand shifter shorting out inside somewhere, I've now got a new shifter and it's all sorted, I figured this out by fully charging the battery and then unplugging each component one at a time and leaving over night to see if it was still draining, process of elimination.
Hi guys, love the channel. Currently I’ve a 11-28 casette but I’m looking for some new set of wheels with 11-30 casette in the back. The question is: do I need a new longer chain if I go from 11-28 to 11-30 casette? #AskGCNTech
You should test dual vs single, what really worries me is that fluctuations in power are greater in single sided and that can affect sticking to training plans
I have Ultegra 8020 shifters on my gravel bike. On a ride Sunday, I had the pivot cover rattle loose and the single tiny screw that holds this on has disappeared. I have the plastic cover, but I will need to find a replacement for this tiny screw. Any suggestions on where to get this or at least find the size and thread pitch?
Regarding Di2 battery drain. i notice if i hang my bike from the top tube it can drain the battery within a couple of days. If i hang from the front rim vertically its fine. i guess hanging may cause it to stay on.
Im biased since I have a single side but wouldnt the most important aspect of a pm be consistency? Even if theres a tiny discrepancy between legs the power percentage increase/decrease and effort would be the same. The price for dual sided doesnt seem worth it imo
Clinton For cat.2 and above riders, go dual. For everyone else, single side pm is still much better than rpe.
This current gen of shimano crank sets also has an inherent flaw when measuring power on the right side. Gplama did a indepth test on it. So by going dual sided you could introduce more inaccuries if it is a shimano based pm. Which is the opposite most people are trying to do.
@@Demon09-_- right side as in driveside?
So for shimano one can make the argument _for_ single-crankarm(non-drive side) power meters?
@_Finley_ Ultegra DI2! DI2 is way easier to work on, clean, maintain, etc. Also Part replacements on ultegra down the road are wayyy more affordable. I also swear by the durability of ultegra cassettes over dura ace. I've gotten way more miles out of Ultegra than Dura Ace in terms of durability
The dual sided shimano cranks the right side seems to have an inherent flaw gplama did a pretty indepth test on the matter
Hello, hi! Which plays a bigger factor in terms of comfort, Saddle or bib shorts? And I am looking for an excuse to upgrade the suggested. Ive got a few decent mid-tier bibs and mid-tier Prologo saddle. Its time for a treat so which would you recommend upgrading? Thanks, bye!
I have an assioma uno and I had to do a 12% discrepancy in order to match my smart trainer power. Otherwise it would measure like 20w lower. So definitely helps to have something to calibrate it.
I did the same v my Keiser spin bike but how do you which one is accurate? Luckily for me they were within 2 watts. From Keiser ..........”First and foremost the M3 is not a ergometer nor is it priced like one. Power is an estimate. The price and our maximum usage (group exercise) dictate that it is not for testing and it cannot be calibrated. Though we do have some people that have used it with an IMET test when a bike is more preferential than a treadmill. One thing not mentioned below is magnet strength, they are consistent and do not weaken over the life of the bike. . Watts are calculated from the gear setting. A potentiometer is attached to the magnet holder (the round cone shaped disc at the end of the shifter cable). As the shifter is moved, the cable rotates the magnet holder. A potentiometer is rotated by the rotation of the magnet holder, thus feeding information to the computer on the position of the magnet holder. The rotation of the potentiometer is broken down into 24 gear settings. A dynamometer was used to test and develop a table of wattage at various gear settings and speeds. The speed of the crank is determined by a magnet attached to the large pulley on the right crank arm and a magnetic switch attached to the circuit board in the magnet holder assembly. Each time the magnet on the pulley passes by the magnetic switch, a signal is sent to the computer to compute the RPM's of the crank arm. Power equals force times velocity. The force is determined by the magnet position and the speed by the crank speed. The lookup table is programmed into the computer and the computer simply looks at the gear setting and speed and goes to the lookup table to find and display the Watts for those two settings.”
For a pad separator, I cut up some old library and credit cards then glued them together. Stiffer material than a business card.
Could having a bluetooth connection between the Di2 and your head unit cause the battery to drain more quickly?
Nope, don’t think so. I’m using it with a garmin and the battery did not drain any faster than without one.
I’m only need to charge it a couple of times a year.
First couple of weeks I had my new bike with Di2, the battery drained really quickly. Within 2 weeks the battery was drained. But since then, the battery has lasted several months on a charge. Have no idea what happened.
Would it be possible to make a video about cyclocross tires with J-Pow? I’m getting a cyclocross bike but I’m a bit lost in the different tread patterns and wether to put different tires front and rear
I've recently attempted a local 10TT course, just to gauge my fitness level against other riders. I was about 5 mins off the quickest time! I was riding a Cube Attain pro disc bike, so not aero! Therefore my question is how much time difference can a full TT bike & kit set up take off my finishing time? So I can compare my result against other riders times! #AskGCNTech
The difference between a standard road bike and a full on TT bike is huge! As soon as you add clip on bars to a standard road bike and get into a more 'Time Trial' like position, the difference shrinks massively! Position is by far the most important thing - so if you can replicate a TT position on your road bike, you're 80% of the way there.
I got some new carbon bars. They have grippy areas for the stem and shifters, however the areas for the shifters are too far around the drops so the shifters feel like they're pointing down. Is it ok to just attach the shifters further up, away from the grippy spots? Just want to make sure there are reinforced areas I need to stick to for attaching them.
Dear GCN Commenters,
for the last 4 years I road a 10 year old Aluminium bike which i bought for 300€, but since last year the bike is basically to small for me but i wanted to wait to save up some more money. I now have ~2.500 € and i’m wondering if you have tips and recommendations for my new ride.
+1 for the 32mm GP 5000 tubeless...find them to be super fast, although be warned...a nightmare to install (at least on my wheelset!)
I’m replacing the original bottom bracket bearings in my Trek Emonda (BB90). Should I install the new bearings with grease on the outside of the outer races or with a Loctite retaining compound? I don’t think I’m having any issues with proper fit/creaking of the bearings within the frame, one of them just got rusty and gritty. The creak/fit issue seems to be why folks recommend Loctite. What do you do to install if fit/creak is not an issue? Thanks for the show. Watch it every week and love you guys. #AskGCN
In April I upgraded my 10 year old Cervelo R3 to an all ultegra groupset. I live by the ocean and keep my bike indoors when its not in use. Unfortunately, I have noticed that all of the components, screws, etc... are constantly coated with salt and starting to rust. All of the local bike shops have a wait time of 2+ weeks for a tuneup and I can't bear to be without my bike that long. I have tried cleaning the bike myself using GCN videos, however the problem still remains. Do you have any recommendations on how to prevent (and remove) salt corrosion and rust? #AskGCNTech
I would be interested to hear some tips also :)
What's happened to all the tools that used to be behind Ollie? Did somebody nick them during lockdown?
Hi ollie, As awlays, and enjoyable and informative episode! Could you give us a short clip on master/quick links would be good. E.G. Why use them, ease of fitting? How often can you re-use them? I'm from Nunthorpe in Yorkshire so the last one is an important factor!
If for 11 speed most of them are technically not reusable. But you can get away reusing them 3-5 times or so at least in my experience. And for me its definitely a ease of taking things off.
#AskGCNTech
Hi Ollie its been half a year since im in to cycling and watching GCN videos and I am about to buy my 1st road bike but on a budget
What should, i choose an 8 speed bike with better frame or an shimano 105 bike with lesser frame quality?
I have discrepancy with my right being stronger. If my single sided power meter subliminally makes my left work harder, then I might fix my leg discrepancy?
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie as I have been riding more lately I have been getting a lot more punctures and was wondering if I could convert my normal clincher rim to tubless without having to buy new rims thanks.
Its very much a hack it can be dont but its alot harder on road rims then it is on say mountain bike. Road tubeless can be quite the pain at times on tubeless ready rims. I believe there are kits out there to try and convert but results specailly on road rims are iffy
#AskGCNTech my friend wants to get into turbo trainers but we're not sure what to get them. Would all smart turbo trainers work with zwift?
Both ;) I really want a iQsquare tbh
A power meter is a training tool. A single-sided meter is internally consistent. It allows you to track your training perfectly well. It allows you to pace your ride. What more do you need? In addition, there are serious questions about the accuracy of ANY duel-sided power meters implemented on Shimano cranks. Your answer is poor.
I had the Di2 draining problem and it was an issue with a connection. That was two years ago, no problems since.
I definitely agree, Ultegra Di2 over Dura Ace mechanical, having spent considerable time with both.
Hi ! This is now 4 years that I bought a shimano 5700 105 Stages power meter (single sided) and it work really well for me !! But, I recently upgraded my groupset with a shimano ultregra R8000, which then has a different color than my 105 power meter. Just wonderring then, is it possible to repaint the crank in order to match the color of the crankset (of course without painting all the tech inside the crank) without compromising the accuracy of the power meter ?? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech I have rotor aldhu cranks and they creak and fall apart on me. Most recently I broke the crank bolt, it tore apart and my drive side crank arm just fell of on a highway. Before that I replaced that bolt as the cranks were making noise and when investigating I found the washers all chewed up. What could be causing this? I use a torque wrench to get the correct torque on the cranks and lube everything. I don't output much power and I am lost as to why I am breaking them.
I haven't seen 180mm dual sided power meters available. That's why I have single sided (non-drive side). I doubt the subconscience idea works for me since my left leg is significantly weaker than my right.
Hi Ollie and Manon, I recently bought an ultrasonic cleaner. What fluids would you recommend in it for use on drive chains etc. Thanks, Andy
Watch tracevelo cos he has one
@@pigeonpoo1823 watched him and he didn't specify much.
I have to smile when the rim vs disc brake debate pops up (and keeps popping up) with the issue of weight. Comparing the weight difference of Ultegra R8000 rim vs discs (shifters, rotors & callipers). Disc system is 233g heavier. If your bike weighs 7.0kg in rim brake version means disc is 7.233kg (assuming same wheel/trye combo on both). Taking the whole bike weight into account, means it it is 1.03% heavier as a disc version. Surely such a small difference is negligible compared to having better modulation, stopping power, grip, ride comfort. But really when calculating you should include the riders weight as well. When you do this the percentage gets ridiculously small.
I completely agree with you but your math is a little off: 0.233kg / 7kg = 3.19%.
Hi Ollie, Hair is looking strong mate lol. Thinking of buying my first torque wrench. Should I buy a 2-14Nm or a 10-60Nm. Thanks #AskGCNTech
Ey up Ollie, im from Yorkshire like yourself but travelled to the lake district for the first time(cycling) at the weekend. I did The Struggle and Blea Tarn on a 34 - 28 lowest gear. I was thinking of tackling hardknott pass soon and wondered if fitting a 30 or 32 on the rear cassette would be possible and work fine with the rear deraileur? i have 11 speed ultegra on the bike. Thanks pal. #AskGCNTech
Hello gcn tech, I would like to know if there is such a thing as electronic/electrical/wireless brake now with abs on a road bike and will it matter in terms of responsiveness and weight? Or this is just my imagination? Thank you.
#AskGCNTech hey I was in crash (I am okay) and my Shimano Claris STI left lever moved over. I was wondering how to adjust it over to the correct position. Also, should I replace my helmet even though I didn’t land on my head? Luckily I was about a mile away from home. Will a higher quality tire have more grip on the wet surface?
#AskGCNTech I have an old 1985 trek carbon road bike what cheap upgrades should I do to make it more stable on the road?
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN, just got into road cycling, any sugestions to with powermeter I should buy ?
#AskGCNTech I understand Ollie’s been at Decathlon, but I would like to ask if it would be better to upgrade my current cheap hybrid bike’s groupset and go to drop bars (currently a 7-speed Shimano Tourney with cable-actuated disc brakes on narrow-ish flat bars) over buying a brand new RC 120 Touring Bike? Looking to use it on my daily commute and transition to drop bars. My current bike also feels like it is right at the edge of how large my bike should be.
I've been struggling with rear brake rub on my Cervelo R3 with Ultegra R8000 dual pivot brakes. I get the caliper centered and the pads not rubbing in the stand, but it seems by the time I'm in the middle of the first ride one of the pads is rubbing again. I believe the bolt attaching the brake to the frame is tightened correctly. What am I to do? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hi Olly, I am looking for a new bike and I am looking into the trek Emonda SL 6 Pro. Now I found out that the difference between the SL 6 pro and SL 6 is only 200grams in weight but €500 in price. On their site they're saying that all the parts are exactly the same except for the wheels. But they only cost €200 more and have a weight difference of only 10 gram. Do you know what causes the weight loss and increase in Price?
Hey Ollie and Manon. I have been strictly a Shimano chain guy for years, only thing I'd put on my bikes. However, recently I've tried KMC, because of the gold chain 🤜🤛. I have noticed that the KMCs are wearing slower. What can you suggest for an explanation? Are they made with tighter tolerances to begin with? Made of better material? #askGCNtech
#AskGCNTech Hey Ollie and/or Manon. Question of aerodynamics. If I were to buy a TT bike with 35 mm deep wheels and I would want an upgrade, would it be better to get a disc wheel on the back and keep the stock wheel on the front, or should I rather get an 80 mm wheelset and not get the disc. Thanks for all the help in this show, I love it.
Ollie: lockdown is easing
Everyone in the US:
#AskGCNtech, hi would it be relatively straight forward to upgrade to Udi2, from ultegra mech on my 2020 Trek Madone. I’m a big fan of the integrated cabling I’ve got now, would that remain the same by upgrading? Thanks
What is that MASSIVE allen key for?
Great vid!
#askgcntech I have a ofo London hire bike and it uses soldid rubber tires how do install the tires
Good show!
Hey all! Im currently riding a rim brake bike (2 years old) and im thinking to upgrade my current alu wheels to a carbon set. Is it still worth doing? The wheels im looking for are the Campagnolo WTO 45 or 60's. By the way I'm slim and tall, any suggestions? #askGCNTech
similar doubts regarding Di2 and mechanical. But I will go mechanic, because more and more we ear guys having problems with their batteries after 2 years. I don't want to be spending money on a batery every 2 years. And then, its something else that we need to have in mind that has to be fully charged. Because we see that you have half batery (before leaving home) but as the batery gets older and losing properties, you could end up with your batery fully drained before you get home. And then what? I would really really like to go with the Di2 option, but I fear that batery technologie is not there yet. For competition it is perfect, but for the average user, I fear not. Cheers.
disc is better for flat tt's or crits? nah
Personally I don't care about power meters, starve and these things.
I ride for fun.
And power meters and all those things take away the fun in it I think.
At least it does for me.
Are Di2 and Etap better than EPS form Campagnolo?
I always liked the EPS system.
I like low spoke count on road bike wheels so disc brakes are out.
Vegan cyclist does a more relevant video on dual sided v single sided. Convinced me to buy single sided. Maybe if you have an injury to one leg it’s relevant otherwise as long as the numbers are consistent, single sided is great
Favero assioma Uno. Works brilliantly all the time. I struggled to decide because of all the options and reviews putting me off some but I can say I've never had any issues with it in a year. And one-sided is plenty good unless you're pro and get your kit free.
Agree - brilliant bit of kit. I know my left leg is a bit stronger from the Watt bike but so what? Also whenever I have tried to even up on the Wattbike it takes a lot of concentration. Even for a few minutes so no way I am going to do this on even a short ride on the road even if I had Duo.
@@marcdaniels9079 I've found the exact same on a Watt bike with my power. One-sided still allows me to have good tailored training.
Rim Brakes: for now, second hand Rim brake wheels etc are probably cheap because of all people converting to Disc Brakes, and as such a good buy for a number of years. (Until Rim brake bikes become vintage)
#AskGCNTech
Hi gcn I just got my first road bike and I want to have a way to GPS track it in case it gets stolen.
I know locks are the best way to prevent theft but good locks are bulky and heavy; any thief can break a lock bike in less than a minute (depending on the lock).
Would you get a GPS and a lock or just a high quality lock.
If you said lock then what lock would you recommend
And if you said GPS what would you recommend
Thank you
DJ
Ghosts can also drain your Di2 batteries. So there's that...
bikeTRYBE ...and Gremlins too! Must watch out for those guys. They haven’t had much to do since those films in the 1980’s.
Presta chuck especially that little bastard mogwai. He’s the worst.
#AskGCNTech i am using a campagnolo centaur 11 speed groupset, and im looking for some new wheels. Does it matter if i use a campagnolo cassette or a shimano? (I dont Think all hubs can fit a campagnolo cassette on it)
the freehub body the cassette is slottet over is not the same between campagnolo and shimano, but can be changed
Shimano 11 spd and Campagnolo 11 spd cassettes are close enough in most cases to be compatible. If you buy a wheel with a Shimano/sram freehub and use a Shimano cassette it should work decently. Although my preference is to go with either a Campagnolo wheelset or a wheelset that has or can be converted to Campagnolo cassette compatible
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie, after nice ride (5 flats in 20km) I switched from Schwalbe Pro to Pirelli Cinturato tubless and so far no issues at all, but now I have half-empty saddle bag. I go for 150km on average per ride and I wonder what should I carry with me now, multitool obviously, but I guess spare tube isn't necessary, small bottle with extra sealant instead? Cheers and keep up the good helpful show :)