One of the reasons, in my 45 years experiance in the business" that vapor canisters fail is from constant overfilling of the gas tank. This fills the canister with liquid fuel. Eventually the charcoal breaks loose and gets logged in the valves in the evap. system. Over the years I repaired many of them with charcoal in the vapor lines all the way from the rear to the front of the vehicle. When the pump at the gas station clicks off do not keep trying to add more fuel.
This is the same with modern VW cars. When I was at VW we had many Seats and VWs where they overfilled and the vapor canister fail and then had one where it got into the lines. Just because you want to fill up the car more than you should fill
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
When my 2001 Tundra was just out of warranty, it lit up the check engine light. Rather than take it to the dealer, I bought a $30 OBDII reader which showed a fault in the evap system. A quick search under the hood showed a hose had disconnected. I have used that reader dozens of times on a variety of vehicles including in the last decade a couple of motorcycles... saved me thousands.
Exactly. A PocketScan is $30. Time to come into the 21st century. The cars are so much better than in the old days it's not even comparable. Most of the time the scan tool will tell you the exact problem. Not always. But most of the time.
Another tip about shopping around for parts: don't always assume that OEM will cost a lot more than aftermarket , it's not always the case so include OEM in your comparison.
True, and depending on the make you may not have to go through a dealership to buy parts either. In my case, when I need Toyota parts I shop the dealers (they do vary in price somewhat) plus online sources as well.
Exotic = foreign, imported. Not special. Not high-end. Not flash. Not unusual. Not rare. Here in New Zealand every car on the road is exotic because we don't manufacture any cars at all. Japanese used cars mostly end up here because we also drive on the left. Our roads are full of foreign cars you never see, and your roads are full of foreign cars we never see. I'm always amused that you've managed to create a growing RUclips audience just by operating your business with integrity and honesty. That says a lot about the state of the automotive repair industry, and none of it good. Love your channel.🥰
@@garychiles4924 In the US, "Exotic" in common usage would be something that is unusual in design, built in small numbers, and requires specialized knowledge to maintain, and are typically (but not always) expensive, high-performance, and built by a non-mainstream manufacturer. Many are generally impractical in some way where most people would not daily one. These usually are foreign/imported, but not always, and not all imports are exotic. A Volkswagen Jetta or a Mazda3 would not be considered "Exotic" because while they are imported, there's hundreds of thousands of them on the road and you can find them for sale all over the place for mainstream prices. There's nothing unusual about them. A Ferrari or McLaren would be considered exotic, though, because they've got a look that stands out, are imported in comparatively tiny numbers, need special maintenance, cost a fortune, have way more performance than a road car needs, and come from extremely niche brands. They check basically every box. We don't have a lot, but domestic supercars such as Saleen or Hennessy I believe would generally be considered exotic to most people even though they're not foreign because they've never heard of the brands, never seen one, and they're so unlike everything else on the road. Also expensive, excessively fast, and extremely impractical as a daily driver. The line can get a bit muddled, though. A Mercedes G-Wagon 6x6 AMG does come from a mainstream brand and isn't exceptionally fast, but I think a lot of people would call it exotic because it's just so rare and so outside the box. The Ford GT comes from a domestic brand that's a household name, but it's a hand-built supercar where just having money wasn't enough, you had to put in an application why you deserved to buy one. A Lotus Elise might slip into the "Exotic" category as well because while it isn't crazy high-end or ridiculously expensive, it is a unique looking and impractical car that sold in small numbers from a extremely niche brand that most people don't know even exists.
@@tempestsquall5882 that’s hilarious my 92-year-old grandfather thought that his 2005 Accord with 136,000 miles on it was worth 10k. It was an ongoing in my family. But it has the V-6!!
I have a 97 Camry 2.2 I thought you needed to remove the canister to test them . For mine I just replaced the faulty check valve and checked for vacuum leaking. It fixed my charcoal canister problem
I'm familiar with a 1k evap issue. Threw a code... took it in for warranty. Warranty denied due to rodent damage. The rodent was my new puppy. He chewed the thermoplastic end of a metal line that went to the gas tank. 400 fur the part 4 hours labor. Fixed it in 10min w scrap aquarium tubing. 3yrs no more codes.
@nuthinbutlove almost as funny as the quick lube place I started going to after I stopped doing my own oil changes. You need brakes,declined... next visit, brakes are good....next visit, you'll need new brakes. next visit ,I had them done because I had reached the milage at which my brakes usually wear based on my driving habits. Got another 15k miles on em since the first recommended change....only variable was the shop manager!
@charlierumsfeld6626 it was an evap line from tank to charcoal cannister , not a fuel line. The cannister is tucked right above the frame, near the LR tire.
Whenever I see EVAP codes show up on the scan tool, the very first thing I do is put the scan tool down, get up, check the gas cap. Couldn't say how many times I went down a rabbit hole of other things only to find the gas cap was loose!
Hey car wizard you need to make a video reminding people to check their fluids once a month. In the morning before you start your car once a month. Pop ur radiator cap off and make sure it’s full to the top. The amount of vehicles on the road right now with no or low oil and or coolant is unreal. Check those fluids regularly it could save you an engine. Also people need to know about pcv systems and piston rings as well. Blow by is so bad. It causes fluids to leak out of seals and can kill an engine
I was chasing a P0446 on my 99 ES300 for months. It was the canister. Located in the sane place as this camry. Fortunately theres a bit more room to work with so i didnt have to drop the rear subframe assembly. Just the exhaust and wiggle it out. This was after trying to reseal it and testing it to no avail. I did eventually also replace the purge valve assumbly which sits on top of the engine.
Wizard ain't that the truth..I've been chasing a PO300 code on my 2000 Silverado...I thought I only had to injectors left to do..I thought i had replaced everything else I am on SS early retirement and don't have the resources to send it to a shop.. but you gave me food for thought.. and my motorcycle gets me around. It dumping fuel in the oil and the exhaust... My friend a maven on everything when it started..said rev it up...next clouds of what turned to gas vaporized by the catalytic converter bellowing...it's bad gas he said..rev it... I shut it down.. now I probably need the new catalytic converter... The cloud was so huge.. I'm lucky it didn't blow up that's the rabbit hole your warning about.. thank you for the lesson.. I appreciate it
Even when they went to fuel injection, they were still under the hood. My 85 iroc is under the hood. But I'm not sure where he is getting that price of 3to 500 for a new one, I just replaced one on my Camry, it was 180 from Toyota. Could have gotten a aftermarket replacement for around 100 bucks.
@@bigboytoyz541 i don't think they are a cheap shop... If you have guys that specialize in exotics you aren't paying "corner shop" labor rates and parts markup.
Always check the main dealer first for price. They are often cheaper that aftermarket sellers. I have found, many times, that even second hand parts are more expensive than new parts from the dealer.
Dealer parts have good odds for being made in China during a weekday shift. Cheapo parts have a better chance of being "made somewhere on a weekend midnight shift using tweaked brand new dumpster scrap.
I get evap codes for my 2003 Toyota Solara during the warm months when we have what I understand to be the "summer blend" fuel in our region Pop up after about 1/4 tank used and I just clear them. They don't happen from about October/March. No misfires or anything and I've tested the solenoids to make sure they at least respond to voltage on/off. Pushing 200k and it has done it for years so this isn't one I'm chasing down - may not be anything to chase down other than something about the seasonal gas.
I could have sworn one of your choices was the purge valve. I just replaced the one on my audi a4. Similar issues fixed with a $20 part. Love your stuff
Maybe Mrs Wizard should teach the audience how to be better listeners.😂 I had a 97 Camry w/4cyl & I used to "top off" fueling constantly so I didn't need to stop as often. I'm surprised I never had canister problems. It had 265,000 miles before I got rid of it. Great cars! 👍
Yeah I used to always overfill. But then had an under hood charcoal canister go bad, partially full of gasoline, not vapor. The wierd eat thing I had was a 2006 Mustang that would only fill half way up, click the pump off even if you held the lever on the pump. I unplugged an electrical connector of a wire going to the evap box under the tank and the problem went away for over a year..
Question:- Would it not be easier to drain and remove the fuel tank to get at the charcoal canister? The rear exhaust section would have to come off either way, but there's less to remove.
Thanks Wizard! Another very interesting and helpful video. But, wow! That Camry's charcoal cannister location is terrible. If I didn't know better I would have thought you were showing us one of our favorite domestic manufacturer's brilliant designs. 😄 I have a 2009 BMW E82 that was due for a new charcoal cannister. It was still functioning, but after 15 years I decided to replace it myself preventatively. It was actually pretty easy; just up in behind the right rear wheel well lining.
I wonder if it's because it's a car manufactured in the Us? From where I am, we buy Japanese cars that are only manufactured in Japan and it seems the cars they make and design for their market are a lot different and up to higher standards. I have had a couple and those that were designed and built in Japan were someyelse never had an issue. But one Japanese car designed & built in India has had a couple of small niggling issues. It's like buying a Mercedes from South Africa basically.
Japanese pollution laws are so strict that for a long time repairs after 30,000 miles were so expensive that they scraped the car. They would pull the engines and resale the in the United States as replacements for worn out ones. I don't know if that still applies today but it sound like they still design the cars so they don't expect most of the parts to ever be replaced.
Love your matter of fact attitude Wizard and love all your videos. Learned a lot from you. Car channels on RUclips have taught me more about cars than my dad did! Thanks for everything
Smart. A how to video would’ve been awesome…. How did you get it open? And I thought I was being smart rebuilding an alternator, replacing diodes on a 1976 Saab.
On my 96 Toyota corolla seca was idling 159 r.p.m higher than should have been, but only in Park or Neutral. I couldn't at first find anything wrong so with engine idling I listen for a vacuum leaks., replace all vacuum lines the one that was really bad was from the charcoal canister to a valve on the back of steering wheel pump. To the inlet manifold, that solved the problem asap. I don't over fill the fuel tank ever .
I OWNED A 2008 CAMRY HYBRID, NOT 1 PROBLEM IN 8 YEARS, NOT 1, IT GOT 38 MPG, PRETTY GOOD, MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON A FEW TIMES, I TIGHTENED THE GAS CAP A FEW TIMES THE LIGHT WENT OFF.
Good Video. i just sold my original 03 Camry 291K with random misfires, conking out after warm up ,did the coil swap and plugs, and checked everything and then it wouldn't start, maybe it was the evap as it did have the light on last year for it, but i cant see 1000 beans into any car with super high mileage. This 09 Camry however in better shape ...
I have a friend with a 2000 ish Honda CR-V. He was getting the engine light and EVAP codes anytime he drove for more than like 30 minutes. His "mechanic" couldn't find the problem. I checked out his gas cap, and it was suspect. It looked cheap, and I felt no pressure on it when I unscrewed it. I told him to buy a new one because it's not that expensive, it needs replacement anyways, and if it fixes the problem, great. The engine codes went away immediately, and he was able to pass emissions testing and get his car registered.
Over a period of a few emissions canister codes, we moved away from those specific parts sold at Napa, Oriellys and AutoZone. We prefer OEM parts due to the quality of valves and canisters rather than aftermarket. However, we’re forced to use them due to unavailability in some older vehicles.
My brother has an 09 Camry cylinder. It was burning oil around 80k miles but at the time the Toyota dealers were still running their campaigns to rebuild the engines for free. After the rebuild the car now has about 190k and doesn't burn oil anymore!!
Lol I liked the extra reminder at the end that *Omega Auto Works On Asian Vehicles*. People got really upset even though you specified, just no American branded autos.
I’ve had vacuum leaks on several cars I’ve owned and they never caused a misfire. Rough idling yes, pulsing idle yes, lean mixture yes. But it shouldn’t cause a misfire. I would also think a lean mixture code would occur. But I would think the ECM would adjust fuel mixture to compensate. So to me this is crappy design by Toyota.
When I run into this problem I go to a aquarium store and buy a bag of charcoal . I cut the filter open ( just a flap ) then put in the appropriate amount of charcoal. Then I glue the ABS plastic box back together with black ABS glue for black plumbing pipe.
I’m spending $6,000 on my 2007 Lexus Ls460L for an array of repairs. New right front caliper, valley plate reseal, new wire harness down the valley plate, 4 new tires, new brakes all around and other misc stuff.
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
@HksF16 if it's a BMW VW Rolls-Royce Bentley Audi it doesn't. Don't expect a 30-year-old car to not need some repairs. But again drive your Chevrolet or Japanese car not knowing truth and I'll enjoy my push button keyless go quiet air condition seat 17 year old S Class as I pass you on the highway. Ignorantly thinking I spend more on maintenance cost than you do when I probably spend the same or less. But hey whatever man you do you that's why I retired at 23 years old and I serve the Lord. Happily married for 16 years on the Gulf side of Florida because of knowledge that Jesus gave me for a easy life to serve him and make it to heaven that can be applied in as simple as a phone purchase or a car purchase to keep our lives simple and trouble-free as best as possible to serve our Lord
@@scottoleson1997 (JESUS SAID) Matthew 7:6 Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet, and turn again and rend you.
The charcoal canister was a normal problem when I was at VW because people overfilled them. There was one car that had, although not this severe, had charcoal canister issues because they tried to fill it up more than they can actually fill
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
Once I had a check engine light for both cam sensors sending check engine lights. When I looked online everyone kept saying alternator. I’m like alternator but then I noticed the whine that I thought was the synchros. Changed the alternator and the codes went away and the whine was gone.
On the toyota front, my family (parents) owned a camry around this age. The trans self destructed at 128k miles. This car was serviced on time all the time (and babied). Then we had a 2009 rav 4. It goes through brakes and tires in less than 2 years. Now, even with oil under coating, the rust owns it (120k). Curently, we own a 2009 toyota highlander which (like the rav4) has been going through tires and breaks in less than 2 years (toyota breaks parts and falken or contintal tires suv rated tires). The highlander also has intermittent trans issues, oil cooler lines, vac lines, oil leaks, every suspension part front and rear replaced, electrical issues, and, yes rust... Our mechanic just told us that we need to trade this highlander in before next inspection due to (lots of money in repairs and new exhaust from cat back now) frame rot. It has 112k miles on it and it has been under coated and we have not been driving it that much (maybe 10k a year). Now we are racking up miles on our other cars (2014 audi allroad 160k and 1991 audi 200 20v 311k) and they have been much less problematic. Im now living in the bizzaro world where our audis with substantialy more miles have been vastly more reliable. Unless i can find a nice older 4 runner (i love the 4 runners) i wont buy toyotas again.
I was first thinking it was the catalytic converter because in the O6-2010 ish Camry 2.4 L and the Toyota RAV4 2.4 L and their off car SCION also had this issue very much as 1 quart every 1k miles so by time u hit 5k miles there’s no oil left Iin them and some engines blow up cuz 😊they burn oil which then clogs up the catalytic converter needing replacement and that’s probably about $1200 roughly or more!
I think it's time for a project update Wizard ! Since the blue 4 door not a Muscle car is staring at us during this video! The engine swap on the truck ? Is the bus project dead ? Mrs. Wizard isn't working her teaching job anymore , thought the bus project would be moving along ... guess not ! 😮😮😮
If it was a random misfire in all cylinders and it had 100,000+ miles I would think probably dirty fuel injectors. One thing though is that this Camry had that 2AZ-FE engine that was notorious for oil burning. Some of them burned oil so badly that they clogged the catalytic converters. I really doubt that oil burning would cause an engine to run rough or misfire but with this one it would cross my mind.
@@brassmule That service campaign came way late and not until a class action lawsuit was filed. Don't get me wrong. I like Toyota but that was disappointing.
Had the same codes on my 09 Camry and my was broken wire on the evap sensor it’s self barely could catch the issue cause shaking and low rpm was chasing it for a while didn’t wanna throw $300 into a new canister and glad I didn’t now lol
I swapped a motor from a 98 wrecked Camry into my 97. Everything was identical except the location of the charcoal canister. I ended up having to reuse the wiring harness from the 97 just to be able to plug in the darn sensor for emissions.
Is there another way to check for this like f.e. if you dont have a scantool? Like could you unplug/plug that system to bypass it (so if the car runs fine after that you could tell it has failed)?
P0300 should be disregarded if the vehicle also logs P0171/174 codes. But it's kind of surprising that a stuck vent valve would leak enough air in to cause misfires.
reduce restrict the amount of open to evap but never leave stuck closed no one needs a pressurized gas tank but thats a emergency fix if you will that has worked in the past fixing things right is the best way
Hi Wizard! I love watching your content as well as Hoopties Garage!!! Keep the amazing work and your friendship! Question for you I am looking to purchase the S 500 between 2017 and 2019 with no warranty obviously, would you recommend a this car or would you say it has lots of issues that are very expensive? . Thank you
Based on his comments, there are numerous workshops that repair 'traditional US' cars - eg. Chevs, Fords, etc. however far less workshops that specialise in 'Exotic, European, and Asian cars.
I just wanted to ask where you were at on the Wander Lodge. Hopefully you’ve made a good amount of progress in getting it operational and back on the road. Please give us an update.
My 2007 Camry just did the same thing at 132k miles, had the long series of 6 codes that signifies bad charcoal canister so I went to the Toyota dealer and bought the OEM part for $275. Trying to change the canister on the 2007-2009 models is a huge PITA because you gotta drop the rear subframe/sway bar setup to get at it. I eventually changed it in my driveway and no issues at all now, I bought it from the original owner and I remember she used to do the double-click at the pump to "fill it all the way"
The more I read about those toyotas the less reliable and diy friendly they seem, quite a bit issues, and the "legendary" V6 that needs to be taken out to do any job on timing and it have common issue of leaking that timing side gasket and water pump that everyone is replacing. Then on fse it's carbon build up. On FE they consume oil. So much for Toyota quality and reliability half the engines have serious issues
Mine as a 07 has the same issue and engine runs like butter, stupid emissions, got the part for 95$ didn’t install it yet until I need it😅, the p0455 is my specific gross leak so it’s still working I guess just runs a bit rich to compensate
$1000 for a camry is a great repair. It will last another 20 years with not so much service. just a $19.95 oil change once a year and a $5 air filter will do you just fine. Drive and go. Toyotas are excellent, durable and most reliable cars in the world. We currently have a 2023 4runner ,a 2019 Avalon and a 2021 Highlander in the family. Excellent cars.
No, I think it’s the actual charcoal canister, I know I just had to screw with a perch Cell Noyd on a company truck to make it pass smog and then my close friend had a situation with his 2018 Ford fusion with a canister not purging right…
Hey Wizard - what’s your opinion on detailing engines/engine bays? (The dirt in this one made me think of this question). Good idea, or potentially cause problems where none may exist?
Believe it or not, my 1978 Mustang II has a charcoal canister. It is under the passenger side front fender. As there were no computers on cars back then and it has the horrible carb. with automatic choke, not sure if it is good at this point.
It's #2. So what's happening is the vent valve is staying open or getting stuck closed the only other valve is the purge valve under the hood. The vent is supposed to be naturally open so you don't create a vacuum in the fuel tank making the engine not run
Just after you completely filled the fuel tank? Might be a perished/loose filler hose to the tank.... leaks a little when really full (liquid fuel getting to the outside of the hose... then when the level falls... the liquid no longer migrates to the outside of the hose and the charcoal canister system puts the tank under a vacuum... so no smell...
Then u start watching car care nut and learn that all those "super reliable" engines have SERIOUS issues that can cost thousands in repairs or are so friendly that you need to take whole fucking engine out of car for simple repair (2gr V6)
Hey car wizard just a random question but would you work on a domestic brand that uses an Asian made engine, for example my Saturn vue with a Honda j35 V6
Such a shame they put the canister under the rear subframe. The older years had it in the engine bay under the brake booster / master cylinder and close to under the air box.
That EVAP crap can make it take forever to pump gas also. It will close the system and as you put fuel into your tank there is nowhere for the air in you tank to go except the fuel filler neck.
So what actually goes wrong with the canisters,what part stops working ,is it affected by gas fumes ?Carbon build up ? Didn't the canisters used to be manual,no electronics? Emissions,all they do is complicate and add cost to something that used to work without engine management
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the reasons, in my 45 years experiance in the business" that vapor canisters fail is from constant overfilling of the gas tank. This fills the canister with liquid fuel. Eventually the charcoal breaks loose and gets logged in the valves in the evap. system. Over the years I repaired many of them with charcoal in the vapor lines all the way from the rear to the front of the vehicle. When the pump at the gas station clicks off do not keep trying to add more fuel.
Now this makes sense.
I hear the extra clicks from people overfilling and I fight the urge to inform them of the gamble they’re making.
This is the same with modern VW cars. When I was at VW we had many Seats and VWs where they overfilled and the vapor canister fail and then had one where it got into the lines. Just because you want to fill up the car more than you should fill
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
I thought this was common knowledge
When my 2001 Tundra was just out of warranty, it lit up the check engine light. Rather than take it to the dealer, I bought a $30 OBDII reader which showed a fault in the evap system. A quick search under the hood showed a hose had disconnected. I have used that reader dozens of times on a variety of vehicles including in the last decade a couple of motorcycles... saved me thousands.
Exactly. A PocketScan is $30. Time to come into the 21st century. The cars are so much better than in the old days it's not even comparable. Most of the time the scan tool will tell you the exact problem. Not always. But most of the time.
@Blair62 better lmao cheap crap 20 year old care 180 no check engine light 2022 truck 30 thousand miles tranny blown out new cars junk lol 🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂😂😮
A 16-year-old car with $1000 repair is worth every every penny.
Especially a Toyota
@@longnguyen-zu1qe You can't find another Camry for $1k in that condition, so the repair is worth it.
I love this body style but weren't these the oil burning years??
Toyota yes... Dodge, debatable.
If this is one the oil burning Toyota's then this this already totalled and not worth it
man i just love to hear this guy talks.. explains everything well.. talk soo smoothly.. thank you for educating us sir.
so what's app means it's a scam and not car wizard
just send it over to the Car Care Nut. he's the Toyota expert 😊
He is indeed the expert!
Every video of yours I watch, I always think to myself "It's so hard to find a good mechanic".
That's for sure. Or simply an honest one.
Another tip about shopping around for parts: don't always assume that OEM will cost a lot more than aftermarket , it's not always the case so include OEM in your comparison.
True, and depending on the make you may not have to go through a dealership to buy parts either. In my case, when I need Toyota parts I shop the dealers (they do vary in price somewhat) plus online sources as well.
Exotic = foreign, imported. Not special. Not high-end. Not flash. Not unusual. Not rare.
Here in New Zealand every car on the road is exotic because we don't manufacture any cars at all.
Japanese used cars mostly end up here because we also drive on the left.
Our roads are full of foreign cars you never see, and your roads are full of foreign cars we never see.
I'm always amused that you've managed to create a growing RUclips audience just by operating your business with integrity and honesty. That says a lot about the state of the automotive repair industry, and none of it good.
Love your channel.🥰
Just being a foreign car makes it an exotic car?
@@Rhaspun To be honest, it might only mean that on this side of the world. I keep forgetting there are different versions of English language.
Sorry exotic does not mean any imported car lol.
@@garychiles4924 In the US, "Exotic" in common usage would be something that is unusual in design, built in small numbers, and requires specialized knowledge to maintain, and are typically (but not always) expensive, high-performance, and built by a non-mainstream manufacturer. Many are generally impractical in some way where most people would not daily one. These usually are foreign/imported, but not always, and not all imports are exotic.
A Volkswagen Jetta or a Mazda3 would not be considered "Exotic" because while they are imported, there's hundreds of thousands of them on the road and you can find them for sale all over the place for mainstream prices. There's nothing unusual about them.
A Ferrari or McLaren would be considered exotic, though, because they've got a look that stands out, are imported in comparatively tiny numbers, need special maintenance, cost a fortune, have way more performance than a road car needs, and come from extremely niche brands. They check basically every box.
We don't have a lot, but domestic supercars such as Saleen or Hennessy I believe would generally be considered exotic to most people even though they're not foreign because they've never heard of the brands, never seen one, and they're so unlike everything else on the road. Also expensive, excessively fast, and extremely impractical as a daily driver.
The line can get a bit muddled, though. A Mercedes G-Wagon 6x6 AMG does come from a mainstream brand and isn't exceptionally fast, but I think a lot of people would call it exotic because it's just so rare and so outside the box. The Ford GT comes from a domestic brand that's a household name, but it's a hand-built supercar where just having money wasn't enough, you had to put in an application why you deserved to buy one. A Lotus Elise might slip into the "Exotic" category as well because while it isn't crazy high-end or ridiculously expensive, it is a unique looking and impractical car that sold in small numbers from a extremely niche brand that most people don't know even exists.
A thousand dollar car repair is not much in today’s exorbitant new car prices, providing that the repair is legitimate.
New, used it's all high now. People think they're 99 base honda according 200k plus miles is worth 5k
@@tempestsquall5882 that’s hilarious my 92-year-old grandfather thought that his 2005 Accord with 136,000 miles on it was worth 10k. It was an ongoing in my family. But it has the V-6!!
Problem is its not likely to be the last repair. The Car Wizard gave you a list of repairs already made on that car.
@@EJBert I get it. But half that car is new now lol.
I have a 97 Camry 2.2 I thought you needed to remove the canister to test them . For mine I just replaced the faulty check valve and checked for vacuum leaking. It fixed my charcoal canister problem
stuck in off position and on position I am thinking somethings stuck!🤣🤣
How to destroy a evap system? Keep on adding fuel after the pump shuts off automatically.
Just disconnect that shit and plug the vacuum line.
I cringe when people keep adding gas after it clicks multiple times
I only add once more after the first shutoff. I find that this is optimal because you let the gas settle in a bit and do a final top off.
@@Bizija123 NOPE DON"T DO IT! only one click is the design! TRUST US! Over time u are doing damage!!!!!!
We built lots of these 4 cylinder Camrys at the Subaru plant in Lafayette Indiana
I'm familiar with a 1k evap issue. Threw a code... took it in for warranty. Warranty denied due to rodent damage. The rodent was my new puppy. He chewed the thermoplastic end of a metal line that went to the gas tank. 400 fur the part 4 hours labor. Fixed it in 10min w scrap aquarium tubing. 3yrs no more codes.
😮😂
@@300zxturbo depends on the tubing, some is silicone.
How did the puppy get to the fuel line?? Where is it?
@nuthinbutlove almost as funny as the quick lube place I started going to after I stopped doing my own oil changes. You need brakes,declined... next visit, brakes are good....next visit, you'll need new brakes. next visit ,I had them done because I had reached the milage at which my brakes usually wear based on my driving habits. Got another 15k miles on em since the first recommended change....only variable was the shop manager!
@charlierumsfeld6626 it was an evap line from tank to charcoal cannister , not a fuel line. The cannister is tucked right above the frame, near the LR tire.
The previous owner mentioned the problem? Kansas must have honest people there to disclose that.
There are honest and ethical people all over. They are taken for granted. It's only the scammers you hear about.
@@wernerdanler2742scammers tend to have a bad reputation
Whenever I see EVAP codes show up on the scan tool, the very first thing I do is put the scan tool down, get up, check the gas cap. Couldn't say how many times I went down a rabbit hole of other things only to find the gas cap was loose!
I CLICK IT ABOUT 3 TIMES JUST TO BE SURE.
@@7c8f9x Haha!
Hey car wizard you need to make a video reminding people to check their fluids once a month. In the morning before you start your car once a month. Pop ur radiator cap off and make sure it’s full to the top. The amount of vehicles on the road right now with no or low oil and or coolant is unreal. Check those fluids regularly it could save you an engine. Also people need to know about pcv systems and piston rings as well. Blow by is so bad. It causes fluids to leak out of seals and can kill an engine
yes, bcuz so many cars in past 20 years are increasingly oil burners, quite early in life and severe burners
I was chasing a P0446 on my 99 ES300 for months. It was the canister. Located in the sane place as this camry. Fortunately theres a bit more room to work with so i didnt have to drop the rear subframe assembly. Just the exhaust and wiggle it out. This was after trying to reseal it and testing it to no avail. I did eventually also replace the purge valve assumbly which sits on top of the engine.
Always do a proper diagnosis. With amazing teachers like the Car Wizard, you have no excuse not to.
Wizard ain't that the truth..I've been chasing a PO300 code on my 2000 Silverado...I thought I only had to injectors left to do..I thought i had replaced everything else I am on SS early retirement and don't have the resources to send it to a shop.. but you gave me food for thought.. and my motorcycle gets me around. It dumping fuel in the oil and the exhaust... My friend a maven on everything when it started..said rev it up...next clouds of what turned to gas vaporized by the catalytic converter bellowing...it's bad gas he said..rev it... I shut it down.. now I probably need the new catalytic converter... The cloud was so huge.. I'm lucky it didn't blow up that's the rabbit hole your warning about.. thank you for the lesson.. I appreciate it
Anyone that drives a Ford knows that yes...and evap system can be the cause of weird engine issues.
Lol thank you
Those canisters used to be under the hood in the 70s and 80s when cars still had carburetors.
They looked like coffee cans too!
Even when they went to fuel injection, they were still under the hood. My 85 iroc is under the hood. But I'm not sure where he is getting that price of 3to 500 for a new one, I just replaced one on my Camry, it was 180 from Toyota. Could have gotten a aftermarket replacement for around 100 bucks.
@@bigboytoyz541 i don't think they are a cheap shop... If you have guys that specialize in exotics you aren't paying "corner shop" labor rates and parts markup.
@@volvo09 oh, no doubt.
Always check the main dealer first for price. They are often cheaper that aftermarket sellers. I have found, many times, that even second hand parts are more expensive than new parts from the dealer.
Dealer parts have good odds for being made in China during a weekday shift. Cheapo parts have a better chance of being "made somewhere on a weekend midnight shift using tweaked brand new dumpster scrap.
I get evap codes for my 2003 Toyota Solara during the warm months when we have what I understand to be the "summer blend" fuel in our region
Pop up after about 1/4 tank used and I just clear them. They don't happen from about October/March. No misfires or anything and I've tested the solenoids to make sure they at least respond to voltage on/off. Pushing 200k and it has done it for years so this isn't one I'm chasing down - may not be anything to chase down other than something about the seasonal gas.
First major repair in 16 yrs and its a charcoal cannister. Wow that's a first and a Toyota. That's a first too. Great video. 😊
Car Wizard is a great RUclips channel!
I could have sworn one of your choices was the purge valve. I just replaced the one on my audi a4. Similar issues fixed with a $20 part. Love your stuff
Maybe Mrs Wizard should teach the audience how to be better listeners.😂
I had a 97 Camry w/4cyl & I used to "top off" fueling constantly so I didn't need to stop as often. I'm surprised I never had canister problems. It had 265,000 miles before I got rid of it. Great cars! 👍
Yeah I used to always overfill. But then had an under hood charcoal canister go bad, partially full of gasoline, not vapor. The wierd eat thing I had was a 2006 Mustang that would only fill half way up, click the pump off even if you held the lever on the pump. I unplugged an electrical connector of a wire going to the evap box under the tank and the problem went away for over a year..
FYI for those interested who use RockAuto, it's listed as a "Vapor Canister" under the "Exhaust and Emission" section.
CAR WIZARD. Keep pumping them out PLEASE you make amazing videos dude. LOVE IT
Very good point and it's always been overlooked..
Question:-
Would it not be easier to drain and remove the fuel tank to get at the charcoal canister?
The rear exhaust section would have to come off either way, but there's less to remove.
Thanks Wizard! Another very interesting and helpful video. But, wow! That Camry's charcoal cannister location is terrible. If I didn't know better I would have thought you were showing us one of our favorite domestic manufacturer's brilliant designs. 😄 I have a 2009 BMW E82 that was due for a new charcoal cannister. It was still functioning, but after 15 years I decided to replace it myself preventatively. It was actually pretty easy; just up in behind the right rear wheel well lining.
I wonder if it's because it's a car manufactured in the Us? From where I am, we buy Japanese cars that are only manufactured in Japan and it seems the cars they make and design for their market are a lot different and up to higher standards. I have had a couple and those that were designed and built in Japan were someyelse never had an issue. But one Japanese car designed & built in India has had a couple of small niggling issues. It's like buying a Mercedes from South Africa basically.
Japanese pollution laws are so strict that for a long time repairs after 30,000 miles were so expensive that they scraped the car. They would pull the engines and resale the in the United States as replacements for worn out ones. I don't know if that still applies today but it sound like they still design the cars so they don't expect most of the parts to ever be replaced.
Hopefully that engine isn’t burning oil, those years where notorious for bad piston rings on the 4 cylinder, that’s why I got the V6 from those years
Love your matter of fact attitude Wizard and love all your videos. Learned a lot from you. Car channels on RUclips have taught me more about cars than my dad did! Thanks for everything
I rebuilt my Camry cannister using activated charcoal & filter media. Has worked for over 4 years w/o any codes. Cost me @ $30.
Smart. A how to video would’ve been awesome…. How did you get it open?
And I thought I was being smart rebuilding an alternator, replacing diodes on a 1976 Saab.
Make a video of it please 🙏
The Camry is more domestic than a Scat pack
😅😅😅😅
That's a clean looking Camry...paints looks brand new
On my 96 Toyota corolla seca was idling 159 r.p.m higher than should have been, but only in Park or Neutral. I couldn't at first find anything wrong so with engine idling I listen for a vacuum leaks., replace all vacuum lines the one that was really bad was from the charcoal canister to a valve on the back of steering wheel pump. To the inlet manifold, that solved the problem asap. I don't over fill the fuel tank ever .
I OWNED A 2008 CAMRY HYBRID, NOT 1 PROBLEM IN 8 YEARS, NOT 1, IT GOT 38 MPG, PRETTY
GOOD, MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON A FEW TIMES, I TIGHTENED THE GAS CAP A FEW TIMES THE LIGHT WENT OFF.
Good Video. i just sold my original 03 Camry 291K with random misfires, conking out after warm up ,did the coil swap and plugs, and checked everything and then it wouldn't start, maybe it was the evap as it did have the light on last year for it, but i cant see 1000 beans into any car with super high mileage. This 09 Camry however in better shape ...
My Check Engine light was for the same but no misfiring. The check valve was faulty, so I junkyard found that part & fixed it.
I have a friend with a 2000 ish Honda CR-V. He was getting the engine light and EVAP codes anytime he drove for more than like 30 minutes. His "mechanic" couldn't find the problem. I checked out his gas cap, and it was suspect. It looked cheap, and I felt no pressure on it when I unscrewed it. I told him to buy a new one because it's not that expensive, it needs replacement anyways, and if it fixes the problem, great. The engine codes went away immediately, and he was able to pass emissions testing and get his car registered.
Over a period of a few emissions canister codes, we moved away from those specific parts sold at Napa, Oriellys and AutoZone. We prefer OEM parts due to the quality of valves and canisters rather than aftermarket. However, we’re forced to use them due to unavailability in some older vehicles.
My brother has an 09 Camry cylinder. It was burning oil around 80k miles but at the time the Toyota dealers were still running their campaigns to rebuild the engines for free. After the rebuild the car now has about 190k and doesn't burn oil anymore!!
Lol I liked the extra reminder at the end that *Omega Auto Works On Asian Vehicles*. People got really upset even though you specified, just no American branded autos.
I’ll bring him my Pontiac vibe. It’s a Toyota matrix in disguise 😂
Yeah but why ? Is this some sort of hint American vehicles suck? Even if that’s the case millions of Americans own them.
@@cutehumorI just learned this. That's pretty cool for Vibe owners.
I’ve had vacuum leaks on several cars I’ve owned and they never caused a misfire. Rough idling yes, pulsing idle yes, lean mixture yes. But it shouldn’t cause a misfire. I would also think a lean mixture code would occur. But I would think the ECM would adjust fuel mixture to compensate. So to me this is crappy design by Toyota.
Why? I'm guessing it's because that's what he wants to do... Burgers are great, but I don't expect them on the menu of a sushi restaurant.
When I run into this problem I go to a aquarium store and buy a bag of charcoal . I cut the filter open ( just a flap ) then put in the appropriate amount of charcoal.
Then I glue the ABS plastic box back together with black ABS glue for black plumbing pipe.
I’m spending $6,000 on my 2007 Lexus Ls460L for an array of repairs. New right front caliper, valley plate reseal, new wire harness down the valley plate, 4 new tires, new brakes all around and other misc stuff.
Price shopping can save so much. Did ball joints on my corolla and found oem for half the price than parts stores.
I guessed canister because Toyota has lot's of problems with them. Many people try to top up their gas tank and it can contaminate the canister.
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
@@JESUS_IS_GOD German and reliability don't fit together
@HksF16 if it's a BMW VW Rolls-Royce Bentley Audi it doesn't. Don't expect a 30-year-old car to not need some repairs. But again drive your Chevrolet or Japanese car not knowing truth and I'll enjoy my push button keyless go quiet air condition seat 17 year old S Class as I pass you on the highway. Ignorantly thinking I spend more on maintenance cost than you do when I probably spend the same or less. But hey whatever man you do you that's why I retired at 23 years old and I serve the Lord. Happily married for 16 years on the Gulf side of Florida because of knowledge that Jesus gave me for a easy life to serve him and make it to heaven that can be applied in as simple as a phone purchase or a car purchase to keep our lives simple and trouble-free as best as possible to serve our Lord
@@JESUS_IS_GOD the fact that you’re commenting this on multiple threads just feels like you’re coping. Did someone hurt your precious Merc?
@@scottoleson1997 (JESUS SAID) Matthew 7:6 Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet, and turn again and rend you.
The charcoal canister was a normal problem when I was at VW because people overfilled them. There was one car that had, although not this severe, had charcoal canister issues because they tried to fill it up more than they can actually fill
I always add another half a gallon after the click and all of the Mercedes I've owned never had one fail. This is why I drive Mercedes best tech best reliability as long as your account for regular maintenance. If you stay away from the dealership and get aftermarket parts you can get tires brakes everything cheap as long as it's not a Mercedes AMG or Maybach and it'll cost just as much to run as a Toyota unless you have an S class, then you have to replace the air bladders on the air suspension every 10 yrs years, so a little more maintenance. My 17 year old Mercedes S550 5.5 L V8 everything works perfectly ice cold AC here in Florida my daily driver doesn't burn any oil doesn't leak a thing. But just like the Bible says for lacking knowledge by people perish so I know a bunch of people will attack my comment yet I bought my car 10 years old used cheaper than a new Toyota Corolla.
Sad the wizard will now really never work on my Mustang, but still love the content!
Agree. Got a 1980 Mark6 I'd gladly send him fur a refresh after sitting fur 5 years since my dad died. Nobody around here will touch it.
I wonder if that vapor canister and valve could be remounted in the engine compartment, avoiding cumbersome disassembly under the car?
Once I had a check engine light for both cam sensors sending check engine lights. When I looked online everyone kept saying alternator. I’m like alternator but then I noticed the whine that I thought was the synchros. Changed the alternator and the codes went away and the whine was gone.
What is the mileage on the car? And how do you test the evap Canister before replacing it?, while it's on the vehicle.
As a short term hack. What about just cutting and plugging the vacuum hose at the engine, effectively disabling the cannister system?
Not recommended 😅
With the lean, stumble & e-vap I was thinking of two different things a vacuum leak and or a loose gas cap.
On the toyota front, my family (parents) owned a camry around this age.
The trans self destructed at 128k miles.
This car was serviced on time all the time (and babied).
Then we had a 2009 rav 4.
It goes through brakes and tires in less than 2 years.
Now, even with oil under coating, the rust owns it (120k).
Curently, we own a 2009 toyota highlander which (like the rav4) has been going through tires and breaks in less than 2 years (toyota breaks parts and falken or contintal tires suv rated tires).
The highlander also has intermittent trans issues, oil cooler lines, vac lines, oil leaks, every suspension part front and rear replaced, electrical issues, and, yes rust...
Our mechanic just told us that we need to trade this highlander in before next inspection due to (lots of money in repairs and new exhaust from cat back now) frame rot.
It has 112k miles on it and it has been under coated and we have not been driving it that much (maybe 10k a year).
Now we are racking up miles on our other cars (2014 audi allroad 160k and 1991 audi 200 20v 311k) and they have been much less problematic.
Im now living in the bizzaro world where our audis with substantialy more miles have been vastly more reliable.
Unless i can find a nice older 4 runner (i love the 4 runners) i wont buy toyotas again.
How about buying the new canister and installing it some where else that is easier to get to and abandoning the old one?
best idea!
Yep, need to look at the big picture. Multiple systems interacting.
I was first thinking it was the catalytic converter because in the O6-2010 ish Camry 2.4 L and the Toyota RAV4 2.4 L and their off car SCION also had this issue very much as 1 quart every 1k miles so by time u hit 5k miles there’s no oil left Iin them and some engines blow up cuz 😊they burn oil which then clogs up the catalytic converter needing replacement and that’s probably about $1200 roughly or more!
I think it's time for a project update Wizard ! Since the blue 4 door not a Muscle car is staring at us during this video! The engine swap on the truck ? Is the bus project dead ? Mrs. Wizard isn't working her teaching job anymore , thought the bus project would be moving along ... guess not ! 😮😮😮
Exotics, europeans and asians.. sounds like my type. Wizard you are the best, love your channel.
If it was a random misfire in all cylinders and it had 100,000+ miles I would think probably dirty fuel injectors. One thing though is that this Camry had that 2AZ-FE engine that was notorious for oil burning. Some of them burned oil so badly that they clogged the catalytic converters. I really doubt that oil burning would cause an engine to run rough or misfire but with this one it would cross my mind.
Toyota had a service campaign to fix that issue, and a lot of them got done. It's pretty easy to check of the repair has been done or not.
@@brassmule That service campaign came way late and not until a class action lawsuit was filed. Don't get me wrong. I like Toyota but that was disappointing.
Had the same codes on my 09 Camry and my was broken wire on the evap sensor it’s self barely could catch the issue cause shaking and low rpm was chasing it for a while didn’t wanna throw $300 into a new canister and glad I didn’t now lol
Well it sounds legit. I mean they need the air filter changed. And you just can't let it leave with those old timing chains.
I remember having that problem on my 2010 Scion TC because it has the same engine as that Camry.
I swapped a motor from a 98 wrecked Camry into my 97. Everything was identical except the location of the charcoal canister. I ended up having to reuse the wiring harness from the 97 just to be able to plug in the darn sensor for emissions.
Is there another way to check for this like f.e. if you dont have a scantool? Like could you unplug/plug that system to bypass it (so if the car runs fine after that you could tell it has failed)?
P0300 should be disregarded if the vehicle also logs P0171/174 codes. But it's kind of surprising that a stuck vent valve would leak enough air in to cause misfires.
reduce restrict the amount of open to evap but never leave stuck closed no one needs a pressurized gas tank but thats a emergency fix if you will that has worked in the past fixing things right is the best way
Hi Wizard! I love watching your content as well as Hoopties Garage!!! Keep the amazing work and your friendship!
Question for you
I am looking to purchase the S 500 between 2017 and 2019 with no warranty obviously, would you recommend a this car or would you say it has lots of issues that are very expensive? .
Thank you
Maybe, it depends...
Why don’t you work on American cars anymore? I feel like I probably missed a video explaining why.
Same thing I’m wondering. I could see how the newer ones would annoy him…but who knows.
Based on his comments, there are numerous workshops that repair 'traditional US' cars - eg. Chevs, Fords, etc. however far less workshops that specialise in 'Exotic, European, and Asian cars.
The lowly old Camry doesn't get a walk-around and inspection 😢
I just wanted to ask where you were at on the Wander Lodge. Hopefully you’ve made a good amount of progress in getting it operational and back on the road. Please give us an update.
My 2007 Camry just did the same thing at 132k miles, had the long series of 6 codes that signifies bad charcoal canister so I went to the Toyota dealer and bought the OEM part for $275. Trying to change the canister on the 2007-2009 models is a huge PITA because you gotta drop the rear subframe/sway bar setup to get at it. I eventually changed it in my driveway and no issues at all now, I bought it from the original owner and I remember she used to do the double-click at the pump to "fill it all the way"
The more I read about those toyotas the less reliable and diy friendly they seem, quite a bit issues, and the "legendary" V6 that needs to be taken out to do any job on timing and it have common issue of leaking that timing side gasket and water pump that everyone is replacing. Then on fse it's carbon build up. On FE they consume oil. So much for Toyota quality and reliability half the engines have serious issues
Mine as a 07 has the same issue and engine runs like butter, stupid emissions, got the part for 95$ didn’t install it yet until I need it😅, the p0455 is my specific gross leak so it’s still working I guess just runs a bit rich to compensate
This helped my lean code diagnosis
I remember when PCV valves were required...made a ton of money replacing them.
$1000 for a camry is a great repair. It will last another 20 years with not so much service. just a $19.95 oil change once a year and a $5 air filter will do you just fine. Drive and go. Toyotas are excellent, durable and most reliable cars in the world. We currently have a 2023 4runner ,a 2019 Avalon and a 2021 Highlander in the family. Excellent cars.
No, I think it’s the actual charcoal canister, I know I just had to screw with a perch Cell Noyd on a company truck to make it pass smog and then my close friend had a situation with his 2018 Ford fusion with a canister not purging right…
Hey Wizard - what’s your opinion on detailing engines/engine bays? (The dirt in this one made me think of this question). Good idea, or potentially cause problems where none may exist?
I have the 2007 Camry, I seen where that charcoal canister is located and it's a real mother too.
Believe it or not, my 1978 Mustang II has a charcoal canister. It is under the passenger side front fender. As there were no computers on cars back then and it has the horrible carb. with automatic choke, not sure if it is good at this point.
It's #2. So what's happening is the vent valve is staying open or getting stuck closed the only other valve is the purge valve under the hood. The vent is supposed to be naturally open so you don't create a vacuum in the fuel tank making the engine not run
I love the Wizard's kind of German way of thinking :)
Does a failing canister also causes fuel smell into the car? I have a 07 Camry and sometimes a fuel smell gets into the cabin.
Just after you completely filled the fuel tank?
Might be a perished/loose filler hose to the tank....
leaks a little when really full (liquid fuel getting to the outside of the hose...
then when the level falls...
the liquid no longer migrates to the outside of the hose
and the charcoal canister system puts the tank under a vacuum...
so no smell...
Constantly topping the fuel off until it's to the top of the filler neck can cause that problem.
It doesn't matter the question the answer is Toyota Camry or Corolla (or the Lexus equivalent) or the Honda Accord or Civic (or the Acura equivalent).
Then u start watching car care nut and learn that all those "super reliable" engines have SERIOUS issues that can cost thousands in repairs or are so friendly that you need to take whole fucking engine out of car for simple repair (2gr V6)
Hey car wizard just a random question but would you work on a domestic brand that uses an Asian made engine, for example my Saturn vue with a Honda j35 V6
My 3800 powered 2000 lesabre has a gross evap leak and runs like a champ
How come you don’t work on USA domestic cars anymore?
I have a 2003 Camry with the same issue that came up a few years ago. Problem came up after filling my gas tank. Never fixed it
Such a shame they put the canister under the rear subframe. The older years had it in the engine bay under the brake booster / master cylinder and close to under the air box.
That EVAP crap can make it take forever to pump gas also. It will close the system and as you put fuel into your tank there is nowhere for the air in you tank to go except the fuel filler neck.
A little TLC they have a nice car. Maybe some new hubcaps too
Will log that one in the old noodle. My mother has this car. Thanks.👍
Would blocking the line at the intake work? Ridiculous price for some charcoal in a plastic box 😮
So what actually goes wrong with the canisters,what part stops working ,is it affected by gas fumes ?Carbon build up ?
Didn't the canisters used to be manual,no electronics?
Emissions,all they do is complicate and add cost to something that used to work without engine management
Nice information ! Thankyou.