Thank you Doug! We're glad you found the video helpful, and we're happy to help you with any parts you'll need. Keep in mind, if you're in Canada we've got stores across the country!
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. If there is a sensor that is located in a concealed or other position, then you'll likely have to remove a cover to access it. If it is also made by Sloan then the sensor might be similar to this but there are variations between models.
I have a couple of what I think are non-op sensors. Your video said that in order to test a sensor unit, I must both insert good batteries, and then plug the sensor into the solenoid tether. Do you have to plug the sensor into the solenoid in order to get the red light to light up? I am hoping I can test for a dead sensor without a solenoid since I don't have an extra one, and the rest of the flushometer is at a different location. Thank you!
Thanks for watching. It has been a while since we've filmed this series and I don't have one of these readily on hand. I am unsure if the sensor detects if the solenoid is connected or not as I don't know what sort of circuitry is under the hood. If trying it without the solenoid doesn't work, you could take a 500 ohm resistor and connect it to where the solenoid is to complete the circuit.
Thanks for watching. If the batteries are good, and the solenoid is working and you've followed the steps to calibrate the distance, then listen to see if it is triggering a flush. If there is no click after an object moves away, then it is an issue with the solenoid or sensor module. If there is a click after an object moves away, it could be an issue with the diaphragm. ruclips.net/video/bHQaC-gTYVc/видео.html
How are you doin sir? I'm dealing with this same exact Sloan setup but on a urinal and the water just continuously runs when I turn on the the valve. I replaced the solenoid and tried installing a new diaphragm to no avail. I'm omw to replacing the whole fixture but want to know if maybe I should try to change the sensor first? The water continuously runs and even comes out of the threads and the nuts by the diaphragm body and the and by the valve. And the threads are clean and have teflon tape and and stick tight sealant. What should I do?
Thanks for watching. If the valve is leaking on the threads then its best to clean the threads and reseat the diaphragm as it might not be positioned ideally on the valve. As well check the manual, thread tape or sealant is not recommended on these threads and can compromise the seal.
Thanks for watching. The Sloan manuals don't seem to say much about a solid red light, but it might mean that the battery is low and needs to be replaced.
I have two of these urinals at our church. One of the units was not flushing, we changed the batteries and nothing happened. I took the sensor out of another unit and put it on the one not flushing. The light was flashing but when I connected to the solenoid it did a quick flush and then the light will not come back on and I cannot get a flush out of it. Could the solenoid have shorted out both sensors? Please advise. Thank You
Hi Chad Argon. In this case the solenoid might just be worn out but its best to test a few things first. After you placed the sensor from the functioning unit, into the non-function unit, does it still work when you place it back in the original unit? Also does the sensor from the non-functioning unit work when placed in your functioning unit? If both sensors still work in the functioning unit then its a pretty good sign that the solenoid is getting stuck.
Thank you for responding! So after I placed the working sensor in the non working toilet the light stopped coming on and now they both don't work. It is almost as if plugging into the solenoid shorted it out or something. I tried the holding down for 40 seconds and the light will not come on.
Hmm the light should come on after holding down for 40 seconds as that begins the range adjustment. The light also should come on anytime you open/ close the battery cover or place new batteries in. If you can't get the light to come on either sensor even when re-opening the battery cover then it could mean that its shorted. Its not common but its a possibility. Try re-opening the battery cover on both sensors to see if it resets it. Also its still good to try both sensors sensors in working toilet as well to be sure.
Generally the sensor module is replaced as one piece so i don't think it can be repaired if its shorted out. It might be best to ask the Sloan Tech Support T: 888.756.2614 as they are quite knowledgeable and might have come across this particular case before.
Hi Annad, thank you for watching. Currently the batteries for many devices come installed are sealed by the manufacture, its not feasible to open every device that we receive from manufacturers. It would be best to share your experience with Sloan directly as they do like hearing feedback. Overall leaking can occur naturally overtime through self discharge. As well high temperatures and humidity can also cause batteries to leak, so even if a battery is good during storage, they can leak sometimes when shipped.
Thanks for watching. When it comes to sensors they can be problematic. Was there anything specific that keeps reoccurring? We're always curious to learn what problems are most common out in the field.
@@AmreSupply they're maintenance nightmare I've got about 15-20 these things the ones that work work fine but the ones that don't are a real pain. I would prefer the building did not have them at all. And replace them is 200 plus dollars a piece. I have been able to fix some of them with electric Parts cleaner.
Thanks for the video. Jack of most trades but not a master of the toilet.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to share some good info!
Very helpful! Thanks, you got my business when I need parts.
Thank you Doug! We're glad you found the video helpful, and we're happy to help you with any parts you'll need. Keep in mind, if you're in Canada we've got stores across the country!
Thank you! Very helpful information 👌
You're welcome!
Great video thank you what about the wall tank sensor
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. If there is a sensor that is located in a concealed or other position, then you'll likely have to remove a cover to access it. If it is also made by Sloan then the sensor might be similar to this but there are variations between models.
I have a couple of what I think are non-op sensors. Your video said that in order to test a sensor unit, I must both insert good batteries, and then plug the sensor into the solenoid tether. Do you have to plug the sensor into the solenoid in order to get the red light to light up? I am hoping I can test for a dead sensor without a solenoid since I don't have an extra one, and the rest of the flushometer is at a different location. Thank you!
Thanks for watching. It has been a while since we've filmed this series and I don't have one of these readily on hand. I am unsure if the sensor detects if the solenoid is connected or not as I don't know what sort of circuitry is under the hood. If trying it without the solenoid doesn't work, you could take a 500 ohm resistor and connect it to where the solenoid is to complete the circuit.
Great info. Very helpful
Thanks, we're just happy to help!
I see flashing red light and heard a click after replacing the battery, however no flush even after holding the button for 40 seconds
Thanks for watching. If the batteries are good, and the solenoid is working and you've followed the steps to calibrate the distance, then listen to see if it is triggering a flush. If there is no click after an object moves away, then it is an issue with the solenoid or sensor module. If there is a click after an object moves away, it could be an issue with the diaphragm. ruclips.net/video/bHQaC-gTYVc/видео.html
Great instructor!!!
Thank you!
Thank you sir
You're welcome!
Super random, but thank you so much for these videos! I have a severe phobia of autoflush toilets and I've been using vids to help desensitize myself.
We're glad that you found it helpful. All the best to you.
How are you doin sir? I'm dealing with this same exact Sloan setup but on a urinal and the water just continuously runs when I turn on the the valve. I replaced the solenoid and tried installing a new diaphragm to no avail. I'm omw to replacing the whole fixture but want to know if maybe I should try to change the sensor first? The water continuously runs and even comes out of the threads and the nuts by the diaphragm body and the and by the valve. And the threads are clean and have teflon tape and and stick tight sealant. What should I do?
Thanks for watching. If the valve is leaking on the threads then its best to clean the threads and reseat the diaphragm as it might not be positioned ideally on the valve. As well check the manual, thread tape or sealant is not recommended on these threads and can compromise the seal.
Thanks very useful. Video
You're welcome Jakir, we're glad that you found it helpful!
what does it mean when the light is solid red?
Thanks for watching. The Sloan manuals don't seem to say much about a solid red light, but it might mean that the battery is low and needs to be replaced.
Quite helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome Jamie M!
Thanks for the help!
You're welcome Mike Acosta Jr. we're glad you found the video helpful!
Thanks
You're welcome Jakir!
Do the batteries need to be rechargable
Thanks for watching. You can use regular non-rechargeable batteries in these valves.
Do you have spern products
Thanks for watching. That is not a manufacturer that I'm aware of. If you are looking for specific parts you can search our website: amresupply.com
I have two of these urinals at our church. One of the units was not flushing, we changed the batteries and nothing happened. I took the sensor out of another unit and put it on the one not flushing. The light was flashing but when I connected to the solenoid it did a quick flush and then the light will not come back on and I cannot get a flush out of it. Could the solenoid have shorted out both sensors?
Please advise. Thank You
Hi Chad Argon. In this case the solenoid might just be worn out but its best to test a few things first.
After you placed the sensor from the functioning unit, into the non-function unit, does it still work when you place it back in the original unit?
Also does the sensor from the non-functioning unit work when placed in your functioning unit?
If both sensors still work in the functioning unit then its a pretty good sign that the solenoid is getting stuck.
Thank you for responding!
So after I placed the working sensor in the non working toilet the light stopped coming on and now they both don't work. It is almost as if plugging into the solenoid shorted it out or something. I tried the holding down for 40 seconds and the light will not come on.
Hmm the light should come on after holding down for 40 seconds as that begins the range adjustment. The light also should come on anytime you open/ close the battery cover or place new batteries in. If you can't get the light to come on either sensor even when re-opening the battery cover then it could mean that its shorted. Its not common but its a possibility.
Try re-opening the battery cover on both sensors to see if it resets it. Also its still good to try both sensors sensors in working toilet as well to be sure.
AMRE Supply the light won’t come on in both sensors when opening and changing batteries either. Is there a way to fix it if is is shorted out?
Generally the sensor module is replaced as one piece so i don't think it can be repaired if its shorted out. It might be best to ask the Sloan Tech Support T: 888.756.2614 as they are quite knowledgeable and might have come across this particular case before.
Stop shipping the sensor modules with the batteries in, we have 3 of them and the batteries leaked in all.
Hi Annad, thank you for watching. Currently the batteries for many devices come installed are sealed by the manufacture, its not feasible to open every device that we receive from manufacturers. It would be best to share your experience with Sloan directly as they do like hearing feedback. Overall leaking can occur naturally overtime through self discharge. As well high temperatures and humidity can also cause batteries to leak, so even if a battery is good during storage, they can leak sometimes when shipped.
I hate these things with every fiber of my being.
Thanks for watching. When it comes to sensors they can be problematic. Was there anything specific that keeps reoccurring? We're always curious to learn what problems are most common out in the field.
@@AmreSupply they're maintenance nightmare I've got about 15-20 these things the ones that work work fine but the ones that don't are a real pain. I would prefer the building did not have them at all. And replace them is 200 plus dollars a piece. I have been able to fix some of them with electric Parts cleaner.