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Butt Welding Auto Body Sheet Metal: Settings, Problems, Solutions
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- Опубликовано: 31 дек 2019
- Addresses real world issues when butt welding auto body sheet metal such as welder settings, unexpected problems, and solutions.
/ @lakesideautobody
Thanks for taking the time to go over the settings and size wire. It really helps us new to welding.
You're welcome - feel free to ask ?'s - I read the comments often.
Yep, 2 years later and I FINALLY got my project car. 1969 Pontiac Bonneville. Awesome instructions. Gonna go buy a welder.
Congrats! Feel free to ask questions as you go.
I been using Mechanic gloves in winter for tacking, & for Christmas I got a pair of tight fitting leather insulated driving gloves, & I will say I have been impressed for welding, a lot more comfortable than my welding gloves, & better warmth for cold metal, & also sparks not burning holes or sticking to top of glove. lol. my primary mechanic glove is the cheapo copy from Harbor Freight, but do try a leather driving glove, it will make you wonder why didnt try sooner.
as for people mentioning about tip hot, some cheap welders will arc, I know I have read how to install a resistor across lead internally to eliminate that, but mine do not arc.
I just saw your response to a previous question regarding flux core. You can disregard! Thanks again.
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Learning a lot from you! Gonna do floors and rockers on my 84 Chevy truck when it starts to get warm outside😎😎😎
Great. Let me know how it goes.
Butt butt butt...I don't know how to grind it down to perfection.
Thanks for all your videos! Do you have any videos on grinding your welds in hard to grind areas?
Great idea for a video. I use a Dremel with a burr bit - something like these - shorturl.at/bfrGQ You can use a die grinder too with a worn cut off wheel to fit in there. I'm writing that down - thanks for the comment FJB :)
Really enjoy all of your videos. I also noticed that you do a great job of filming everything very well.
I currently have a mig welder, but I don't have gas. Can you tell me if flux core will work with this method as well, assuming I adjust my settings appropriately, or should I wait for the gas tank? Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks - glad you like the quality of the videos - I try hard to make them worth your while.
I used flux core for years...but it is not ideal for body work. Very dirty and lots of blow threws. Once i switched to gas(75/25) i will never go back!
New Subscriber, I don't know much about welding but I will need to know "somethings" this Summer as I have an old car that needs some (lots) of work... I am watching and hopefully Learning & will put into practice soon... Videos are Good and show very well what Your Doing
I'll make sure I do some more on welding patches - butt welding and lap welding.
Great video, I always learn something new from your videos. Did you plug weld the top and bottom of this panel? I didn't see a video of it listed, but I see one where you are removing the old ones
Too much heat should move around and cool welds with air,ok on small area but would get into big trouble on big panels.
You're exactly right - in this rigid area it's perfectly fine but not in large open spaces that can flex :)
You mentioned this car has galvanized metal, but didn’t mention how you prepped it for welding. I know for a fact that if the zinc coating is not removed completely, the weld will be contaminated leading to sputtering, blown holes, green deadly zinc smoke, and early death! Plus galvanized panels are very thin, 20 or 22 gauge, subject to extreme warpage from the heat. I have a ‘96 GM project car and am using a 140 Millermatic with gas. Even after carefully removing all the paint using a 2” sanding disc followed by removing the zinc layer with a 2” scotch bright pad, my welds sputter and pop and look like crap! Even though I’m stitch welding in single short bursts every 6 “, the welds seem contaminated. I think I need to remove the paint ant zinc on the BACK side too! What do you think?
I think I did mention that you have to grind the galvanized coating off - but I'll check. Anyway it's a different color so you can tell if you got it all. You don't have to do the back side. Make sure you are using a sharp disc - like a 36 grit fiber resin to really clean the metal and remove the galvanized layer.
I would think after all these years you would get a newer activated helmet to keep both hands free. It would have been nice if we could have seen the grind after you did it before you bondo filled the area.
I'll keep that in mind for the next videos
Thanks for showing real world set up.
Get a modern helmet and stop flipping it up and down.
You're right - gotta look for a decent one. Tired of junk....
In auto Collision repair school. And in welding class we are butt weld with backing. Is it a good idea to weld a bead or distribute the welds so dont over heat and burn through. Welding on 16gauge sheet metal
You'll really never run a bead on sheet metal. Use spots to distribute the welds and heat. You'll also be welding 20 or 22 gauge in the body shop - that's .035' and .030" but it's good to practice like you are on the 16 gauge - feel free to always ask ?s
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the information.
can it be done with color on the metal surface
You'll have to grind or sand off the paint where you are going to weld.
If the weldment is in an area that cannot be seen do you grind it down? Slightly off topic but my stick welder (Everlast 200ST) is IGBT and requires only 58% of the electricity of the Millers I used in welding school. Do you think IGBT MIG welders require less juice than the older types?
If you mean where trim is going to go or weather stripping... I usually grind it just a bit sand blast it clean then prime/paint - just so if someone takes it apart, it looks nice. Maybe - I have to check one of those welders out. Happy New Year.
How do I make the rust not come back? Lol...getting a wheel well repaired with new metal and people keep saying the rust will come back. Esp at the weld spot in future because water will somehow get in...really bummed about this because I just got the car smh.. can I Plasti dip over the repair to ensure no water ever comes into contact with the weld repair again? Lol. Best options to make sure the wheel well doesn't rust again at the weld spot ? Thanks for any replies. Need some optimism lol. Going to be paying $800 for a wheel well repair ( cut out old metal and weld in new )
Please watch these closely and don't listen to the negativity - they're wrong. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
Use minimum overlap, weld solid, knock down patch, fill, prime, paint, make sure the panel can drain well. No trapped moisture at the bottom of the panel or trapped debris inside the panel. Try to use some type of rust prevention technique - I like used motor oil in the panels - That's the answer or just replace panels - been studying this for years and years - hope that helps - Jerry
Do you sand blast all your weld seams, if so why?
I never did in a body shop 'cause it made a mess. I do now because it looks nice and it's a good surface for the filler to stick to. Never had a problem not blasting it either though - just grinding the area and using a wire wheel to clean up the welds a bit.
I would think the best practice on welding would be to skip back and forth on the joint, instead of one continuous bead. Yes I realize that you were stitch welding which does make for a little less heat , but I would still skip back and forth.
Good point - when you are welding something that can distort. A rocker panel won't give you any problems when continuously welding - too rigid.
@@LakesideAutobody you've got a good point there put I'd still skip around a bit anyway.
@@jsh3234 Absolutely - should have stated that in the vid
@@LakesideAutobody 👍
Are you just aiming for gap in between the metals , does it have to hit the gap in the middle of the 2metals if so how do you do this so fast and accurate.
Great ? - When I but weld like that, I aim for not only the gap but the bottom of the previous weld so that just in case the gap is too large the wire doesn't just slip through. If the gap is real big I aim for the prev. weld, one side then the other and fill it in.
Lakeside Autobody thanks for the quick reply, I’m trying to repair a footwell on my bmw behind driver wheel I have a video up on my channel, if you could look at it could you tell me if it’s a easy our hard repair, if you could get time , if not thank you anyways👍, by the way I have all the old rust cut out now.
@@marc-leemoran5556 That's one of my favorite BMW's :) As long as there is good sheet metal surrounding the hole, it really doesn't matter how big the hole is. For floors just cut the rust out, grind the edges clean for welding, cut a patch a form it to fit using lap welds. use auto body seam sealer to cover the seam and prevent moisture from entering car. I think you could do it with out too much problem. Jerry
Lakeside Autobody thank you , great videos , I’ll give it a go 👍.
So can you confirm that .023 is for autobody?
Yes. Just clear things up: I have 2 welders. One is a Miller MIG welder that uses .023" wire - it's a gas wire feed welder. The other is a Harbor Freight flux core welder (no gas) and it uses .030" wire. Both work fine for auto body work :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for that confirmation. In terms of texture, is it fair to say that the number has to do with soft or hardness of the wire.
@@shawnlawrence4840 Hi Shawn, the number is the thickness of the wire. .023" means 23/1000 of an inch or about 5 hairs thick. .030" means 30/1000 of an inch which is about 6 hairs thick. Good questions - feel free to ask any ones you have :)
@@LakesideAutobody I appreciate that, thicker means more heat and possibility of more burn through. I'm greatful for selfless people like you. You echoed Marcus Garvey's sentiment that knowledge not shared is wasted.
@@shawnlawrence4840 I appreciate that Shawn - very kind of you. I'll have to look up this guy Marcus G. Nice talking to you and enjoy the rest of the week - Jerry
How do you feel about using a good quality flux core wire doing these type of repairs
I started with a Miller MIG 220v gas in the first body shop I worked at - it was gas and I have always used gas. I tried flux core once when I bought this little welder and probably didn't give it enough time or practice and changed right back to gas. For me it did not weld as clean as the gas - but that's just me. Maybe I was doing something wrong.
Thanks for reaching out to me on that heard other people say the welds are not strong enough to use for like frame rails and repair on things like that
Flux welds are plenty strong, but too hot for thin metal you’ll burn holes 🕳 and struggle
@@PnwOnTour I figured that was the case just seems to me at my auto repair I difently can weld better with flux core like when doing exhaust work
@@LakesideAutobody its not just you! You're right. Its very dirty and lots of burn threws...
I used flux core for yrs, but after going with a bottle, i would never go back! Night and day difference.
How do you grind inside corners ?
either a die grinder with a very used up small die grinding cut off wheel or a die grinder with a carbide burr tool square or round. Good subject for a video.
With great difficulty lol
Do you wear a breathing mask at all when welding?
No - probably should though. Probably would steam up the glass inside the helmet. I wounder if people who weld all day on buildings, bridges and other stuff wear one?
@@LakesideAutobody I never see welders wear one, i guess its generally recommended. Might depend on what kind of metal you weld and if you have good ventilation. Awesome video BTW.
@@15farcry Thanks - glad you enjoyed it - have a good end of the week :)
Emailed you
⚡️⚡️👨🏻🏭⚡️⚡️
Isn't that MIG welding?
Yes - it's a Millermatic 90. Not flux core if that's your ?. If not ask again. Jerry
80 garbage tacks in a row isn’t a weld, then ground down and bondo over, this is trash work
You do know that one piece had a galvanized coating on it right? Makes it tougher to get a perfect weld. Did you ever weld upside down with two dissimilar metals - one that might have thin spots, while trying to stay out of the view of the camera? Do that for me and send a picture to my email under the "about" tab on my home page. Don't hide anything either - I don't hide anything when I make a video :|
Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
this is not good actualy is bed
It's held up real well for two salty winters so far. I'll do an update video on this truck so stop back and check that out.
Yuck
You don't like to weld?