Afternoon Steve. What a great video 👍🏻 What I love about your videos is the verity of content and you’re not afraid to take any tasks on in your workshop 😊 Well done 👏🏻 Cheers Stevie 🏴
Good work with this MGA... It's not easy repairing a car of this vintage simply because of expensive parts. I really liked your makeshift jig for pulling out the dents. Only one thing I would say is maybe use a domed planishing hammer inside the bodyshell rather than the one with the square head or it will leave marks. I like the systematic approach that you always use. Looking forward to the next video.
Hi Steve, the MG took a pretty hard knock, lots of stretched metal there. It would help if you made some thick card profile templates or "sweeps" of the shape of the good side
Your setup for pulling the dents out looks pretty good ----- some good ideas there -------- I was going to ask you what size the sway bar was and what did it come off of -- since you said the MGA did not have one ----- but -- in the comments I see you just purchased the car and that the previous owner was kind of reluctant in telling much about the car ---- sorry that happened ----- Will see Part 2 soon ----- Fifty years ago I had a '57 ---- Wish I had never sold it ----- Thank You for you Videos ---- they are all very interesting and helpful ----- Hope you have a Good week ----- Rodney
In my first view down the nose (1:52) it looked to me as though the tire nearest the damage had its top more inboard than the driver side tire. Perhaps an optical illusion but worth measuring carefully
Thanks for the comments, indeed camber and overall alignment is to be checked after the body is repaired.. and there could be some issues with that suspension.
Better to start on the damaged door and get that fixed first. All other panels will then be aligned to it. Trying to fix the front first could result in not having correct alignment
I don't understand the need to have 2 oil coolers...with present synthetic oils im not sure we need any cooler's as most times even under race conditions the oil is not getting hot enough.
Those were fitted, I would not fit two either,,, one for sure as the cooling efficiency of the radiator and the associated airstream for the MGA is very restricted . It works for the normal standard engine... but not for the 1950cc tuned engine. Tracks are veru hot in the summer, sittng there on the start for minutes at high rev's causes a lot of heath. Its not only for the Oil itself , its the overall temp of the engine. I use ester-based oil Motul 3000 v. Txs for the comments\
@@D3Sshooter I live in Australia and run a MGA on the track 1950 and have found it unessary and yes use Motul oil I have removed every 2nd slat from the grill temp. Not a problem. Do enjoy your video's
@@austinblanch1715 Thanks for the comments, I have not run this MGA on the track yet as I just bought it after it had a crash from a previous owner through a sales point. The previous owner is not very informative and seems very frustrated and reserved when I ask questions. Anyhow, will test it and see... If you have no issue in Australia( I would love to visit it, in fact I tried as a young engineer in the early 80's to immigrate but it did not work as I did not have the cash needed at the time) it will work in cold Belgium. I will let you know... In each case, I would appreciate some of your secrets in terms of geometry (TOE, Camber, Caster).. I know on how to set my MGB-GT, but the MGA is something else.... although the suspension is very simular , if not the same. Happy to hear what your best settings are ... If you want to share it of course or by email steve@flashsplash.be Thanks alot and happy racing
D3, always start by identifying the first point of contact. That's where you start to pull it back into shape. This dent should come out pretty easy with a bit of patience and a stud gun. ruclips.net/video/TS-LmFGI-CY/видео.htmlfeature=shared
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Warms my heart to see you working on a 1950s MG. Great job, Steve 👍
Thank you....
well done! looking forward to the rest of the MGA videos.
Thanks
Afternoon Steve. What a great video 👍🏻 What I love about your videos is the verity of content and you’re not afraid to take any tasks on in your workshop 😊 Well done 👏🏻 Cheers Stevie 🏴
Wow, thank you!
Great job Steve, good idea pulling the car straight. As always, a well-filmed video. And you do everything alone👍🙋
Thanks for the comments
I gave my car a little bumb into the barriers a few weeks ago. Sad times but all part of racing. Thanks for the great content
We all have been there , part of racing
Good work Steve, it's amazing that metal seems to almost want to return to position
Thanks for the comments
Good work with this MGA... It's not easy repairing a car of this vintage simply because of expensive parts. I really liked your makeshift jig for pulling out the dents. Only one thing I would say is maybe use a domed planishing hammer inside the bodyshell rather than the one with the square head or it will leave marks. I like the systematic approach that you always use. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you very much!, good point....more to come
Your videos are genuinely a joy to watch! A true mechanic and very knowledgeable gent you are 😊
When you say you're not the bodywork type of guy, a certain Elise comes to mind :)
II would say as a profesional 😀
Great video. Looking forward to see the progress on the car 😊
Thank you
Hi Steve, the MG took a pretty hard knock, lots of stretched metal there.
It would help if you made some thick card profile templates or "sweeps" of the shape of the good side
Outstanding work thanks for sharing Steve .I remember your lotus! You are very good at bodywork!
Many thanks
Your setup for pulling the dents out looks pretty good ----- some good ideas there -------- I was going to ask you what size the sway bar was and what did it come off of -- since you said the MGA did not have one ----- but -- in the comments I see you just purchased the car and that the previous owner was kind of reluctant in telling much about the car ---- sorry that happened ----- Will see Part 2 soon ----- Fifty years ago I had a '57 ---- Wish I had never sold it ----- Thank You for you Videos ---- they are all very interesting and helpful ----- Hope you have a Good week ----- Rodney
Thanks for the comments
In my first view down the nose (1:52) it looked to me as though the tire nearest the damage had its top more inboard than the driver side tire. Perhaps an optical illusion but worth measuring carefully
Thanks for the comments, indeed camber and overall alignment is to be checked after the body is repaired.. and there could be some issues with that suspension.
My favorite MG model
Better to start on the damaged door and get that fixed first. All other panels will then be aligned to it. Trying to fix the front first could result in not having correct alignment
I was always told that you work a dent out backwards from the way it was formed initially..
If you can have access yes.. bud sometimes you need to pull like in this case
Thank You! I could watch this for much longer!
Thanks for the comments
Hi Steve, I was wondering how your Toolmania carlift is holding up? Anything been replaced/broke down yet?
works fine so far
I don't understand the need to have 2 oil coolers...with present synthetic oils im not sure we need any cooler's as most times even under race conditions the oil is not getting hot enough.
Those were fitted, I would not fit two either,,, one for sure as the cooling efficiency of the radiator and the associated airstream for the MGA is very restricted . It works for the normal standard engine... but not for the 1950cc tuned engine. Tracks are veru hot in the summer, sittng there on the start for minutes at high rev's causes a lot of heath. Its not only for the Oil itself , its the overall temp of the engine. I use ester-based oil Motul 3000 v. Txs for the comments\
@@D3Sshooter I live in Australia and run a MGA on the track 1950 and have found it unessary and yes use Motul oil I have removed every 2nd slat from the grill temp. Not a problem. Do enjoy your video's
@@austinblanch1715 Thanks for the comments, I have not run this MGA on the track yet as I just bought it after it had a crash from a previous owner through a sales point. The previous owner is not very informative and seems very frustrated and reserved when I ask questions. Anyhow, will test it and see... If you have no issue in Australia( I would love to visit it, in fact I tried as a young engineer in the early 80's to immigrate but it did not work as I did not have the cash needed at the time) it will work in cold Belgium. I will let you know... In each case, I would appreciate some of your secrets in terms of geometry (TOE, Camber, Caster).. I know on how to set my MGB-GT, but the MGA is something else.... although the suspension is very simular , if not the same. Happy to hear what your best settings are ... If you want to share it of course or by email steve@flashsplash.be Thanks alot and happy racing
Loved mine but it was so slow...
Well this one is fast, 180 HP and only 868kg.. 1955cc engine, stage III head, etc.... tuned for the racetrack...
D3, always start by identifying the first point of contact. That's where you start to pull it back into shape. This dent should come out pretty easy with a bit of patience and a stud gun. ruclips.net/video/TS-LmFGI-CY/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Much appreciated...