Things used to be so simple back when there was only Tubular and Clincher to worry about. The various types of tubeless "standards" have thrown detrimental complexity to cycling. I think most people can easily understand Tubulars and Clinchers. An entire video could be spent just talking about tubeless (and you didn't even mention hookless vs hooked rims and tubeless tire inserts which throw EVEN MORE complexity to the tubeless systems). Would be great if you could expand on this video with a focus on tubeless entirely. I would love your take on hookless rims (not sure I trust them at this point due to rim and tire compatibility, severe tire selection limitations, and safety, but as I said I would be interested in your take on it).
Hello Omar thank you for your feedback. The video and commentary you suggested will be a good video in time. I don’t know enough about hookless rim technology yet or at least not enough to go public 😂 When I present topics on my channel I wish to be well informed and have used a product to talk confidently about it. Let’s give it some time and see what happens. Thanks for watching Omar!
I generally run tubless on all my bikes (road, gravel and MTB). Whilst the sealing works great on gravel and MTB, I've had a few big punctures on the road that couldn't seal. The holes were around 5 to 8mm each time. Gluing a tube repair patch seems to have worked for me. I still go to the hassle of setting my road bikes up tubless for the superior ride quality. Its hard to explain, but the bike just rides smoother. I'm trying the new Silca sealant this winter to see how that stands up. Mucoff has always blown out through punctures at road pressures. Another great video George 👍
I ride all three! Zipp 404 and 303’s. I run sealant in them as a safeguard, and carry a can of Zefal puncture repair in my jersey pocket. The ride feel is indeed sublime, and I have found my Vittoria Corsa’s quite robust. I do however only run 95psi to allow for tyre compliance to mitigate against cuts and punctures. All other road wheel sets are clincher for ease of service and repair, and I also run sealant inside those butyl tubes. Tubeless is reserved for my gravel bike as it runs at much lower pressures. I have found that attention paid when installing the rim tape tape ( Stans tape👍🏽) makes or breaks the experience.
Great video but one thing you didn’t cover is the difference between a non-tubeless ready rim and a tubeless ready rim, never really realised how different they are. I picked up a cheap pair of older Zipp 404’s, which I thought I would convert for Cyclo Cross. I sealed them with tape and fitted a pair of Vittoria Terreno Mix tyres (TR). Initially I ran them with about 35psi to 40psi on local trials and all good, I entered the first round of our local CX this weekend, the course was a little slippy, so I dropped the pressures, I usually ride around about 26psi for CX. My race lasted about 8 corners before the rear tyre was pulled off the rim (Burped). My understanding is the older rims that are no tubeless ready have a totally different profile and don’t retain the tubeless tyres on the rim as well, particularly with lower pressures, you live and learn, just fitted a pair of latex inner tubes an all seems good.
You’re right I don’t trust old rims that claim to be tubeless ready. Hopefully you weren’t injured when your tire rolled off. CX seems to still be a place where tubulars are still preferred. Is that true?
George, awesome video. As per your advice in an earlier exchange, I changed my clincher gatorksins out for some lower roller resistance hutchinsons and have increased my speed. For the tubeless-ready tire, my question is can you put this on a clincher rim using the stans no tubes products? I know the clincher rims have the hooks for the clincher beads so I am not sure if the tubeless ready will work. If so any advice for successful mounting?
Hello Seth thank you for coming back through and providing me with a history of our conversation and your positive outcome from my recommendation. Keep in mind you will lose some puncture protection as you chose tires that favor speed and comfort in their design. It is highly recommended that you use a Tubeless ready rim and a tubeless ready tire in combination. For liability reasons that is my strongest recommendation from me to you and all other viewers of my channel. What follows is just a history lesson and in no way a recommendation. In the past before everything was designed to work together people would do “ghetto tubeless”. They would take a non tubeless specific rim and non tubeless specific tire use gorilla tape and create a home and unsanctioned tubeless setup. Thanks for watching
I have trek fx3 disc with TLR wheels . Current tyres are bontrager tube 700/32. Can I install continental 5000 clincher ? Or should I go with continental gator skin clincher ? What would you recommend. Usually ride around 30 km a day . Thank you.
Hi bro thanks for your explanation. I bought a Trek Roscoe 7, Maxxis tires. On the tires it says Tubeless ready. Does it mean they have actually tubeless ready system or it means I can make them tubeless? I bought 2 tubes by the way when I got the bike since 27.5 are harder to find (especially when you're in the mountains right). Thanks again!
I don't know what Trek does from the factory or at their bike shops when the mechanics build the bikes. If a tire says Tubeless Ready it just means it can be ridden tubeless or with a tube. It also means you need sealant should you decide to run it without tubes i.e. tubeless. You should always have tubes when riding tubeless since the sealant won't work 100% of the time. You need to ask YOUR bike shop what they did when they built YOUR bike. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing.
I am using the normal GP 5000 tires, because I am not using tubeless anymore. I travel for months at a time and my sealant dries out and gives me headaches. I had a bike shop install GP5000 STR 28mm on my bike , which I use an innertube and I paid almost $100 per tire. Last week I purchased the standard GP 5000 30mm tires. They were on sale for $38 each , after mounting them, I pulled out my micrometer to measure the width. The 28mm STR were 29.6 mm and my new 30mm were 29.5mm. The tires were not easy to mount, but I learned a few tips, mount the stem part last,, use gloves and spray some water near the bead, which helps the installation.. Are TL tires actually a better ride??
I got larger measurement on the 30 mm on the same wheels both tubeless. I’m not convinced the tubeless offer a better ride. Yes the tubeless are at LEAST $100
I just got a cheap e-bike with clincher rims and tires and tubes. When the tires get worn, can I go tubeless without replacing the clincher style rims?
I have a Cannondale Quick 1. The tires (700 x 32) say "Tubeless Ready". Does that mean they are tubeless or just ready to be tubeless if I want to go in that direction?
You need to find out if they have tubes installed and if the rim has tubeless tape installed. A tubeless ready tire means it can be ridden tubeless AND you should have sealant in them
Ha ha! It’s not really. Based on your riding there is only one clear choice. There may seem to be so many options but when you get right down to it one only tire type and rim combination is right for you.
Yes they both have tubes inside. But with a clincher you can replace the tube with relative ease on the side of the road. With a tubular typically speaking you have to replace the entire tire you don’t have access to the tube.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad yes I get...but both seems to be sealed that you have to loosen the thread and sew to get the tubes out...one of the tires I have... the tubes seems glued to the tire..And I think the rims are tubulars...it’s just a road bike which I exchanged my mtb bike from a bike dealer..ever since then I’ve not rode it...the tires has been and issue
I’ve been trying to mend the ones that came with it they are bad..or see if I could get a used tubular tire size 28...I’ve gone round the city where I live no one seems to know about it.
@@DanTuber personally I don’t recommend people ride carbon wheels. However, you will need to provide A LOT more information before me or anyone could ever make a recommendation on a set of wheels for you.
@@DanTuber because most carbon wheels are just waiting to break! There is a long list as to why I don’t recommend carbon wheels. You still didn’t give me any information on yourself.
Things used to be so simple back when there was only Tubular and Clincher to worry about. The various types of tubeless "standards" have thrown detrimental complexity to cycling. I think most people can easily understand Tubulars and Clinchers. An entire video could be spent just talking about tubeless (and you didn't even mention hookless vs hooked rims and tubeless tire inserts which throw EVEN MORE complexity to the tubeless systems). Would be great if you could expand on this video with a focus on tubeless entirely. I would love your take on hookless rims (not sure I trust them at this point due to rim and tire compatibility, severe tire selection limitations, and safety, but as I said I would be interested in your take on it).
Hello Omar thank you for your feedback. The video and commentary you suggested will be a good video in time. I don’t know enough about hookless rim technology yet or at least not enough to go public 😂
When I present topics on my channel I wish to be well informed and have used a product to talk confidently about it. Let’s give it some time and see what happens.
Thanks for watching Omar!
I generally run tubless on all my bikes (road, gravel and MTB). Whilst the sealing works great on gravel and MTB, I've had a few big punctures on the road that couldn't seal. The holes were around 5 to 8mm each time. Gluing a tube repair patch seems to have worked for me.
I still go to the hassle of setting my road bikes up tubless for the superior ride quality. Its hard to explain, but the bike just rides smoother. I'm trying the new Silca sealant this winter to see how that stands up. Mucoff has always blown out through punctures at road pressures.
Another great video George 👍
Thank you Simon!
That Silca sealant is really messy. Be prepared for it 😂
Thanks for watching!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad oh, yes. Cleans up easy enough with wipes. It is an outside in the garden job, or an area you don't mind getting mucky
I ride all three!
Zipp 404 and 303’s.
I run sealant in them as a safeguard, and carry a can of Zefal puncture repair in my jersey pocket. The ride feel is indeed sublime, and I have found my Vittoria Corsa’s quite robust. I do however only run 95psi to allow for tyre compliance to mitigate against cuts and punctures.
All other road wheel sets are clincher for ease of service and repair, and I also run sealant inside those butyl tubes.
Tubeless is reserved for my gravel bike as it runs at much lower pressures. I have found that attention paid when installing the rim tape tape ( Stans tape👍🏽) makes or breaks the experience.
Excellent presentation.
Thank You and thanks for watching! Please consider subscribing
I'm running both - a latex tube + clincher in the front and tubeless in the back with Silca sealant. No issues mounting the tubeless on my rims.
That’s interesting! How did that happen?
Great video but one thing you didn’t cover is the difference between a non-tubeless ready rim and a tubeless ready rim, never really realised how different they are. I picked up a cheap pair of older Zipp 404’s, which I thought I would convert for Cyclo Cross. I sealed them with tape and fitted a pair of Vittoria Terreno Mix tyres (TR).
Initially I ran them with about 35psi to 40psi on local trials and all good, I entered the first round of our local CX this weekend, the course was a little slippy, so I dropped the pressures, I usually ride around about 26psi for CX. My race lasted about 8 corners before the rear tyre was pulled off the rim (Burped).
My understanding is the older rims that are no tubeless ready have a totally different profile and don’t retain the tubeless tyres on the rim as well, particularly with lower pressures, you live and learn, just fitted a pair of latex inner tubes an all seems good.
You’re right I don’t trust old rims that claim to be tubeless ready. Hopefully you weren’t injured when your tire rolled off. CX seems to still be a place where tubulars are still preferred. Is that true?
Hi Georges, great vidéo..!
I just want to know if I can convert Zipp 303's clinchers into tubeless...?
George, awesome video. As per your advice in an earlier exchange, I changed my clincher gatorksins out for some lower roller resistance hutchinsons and have increased my speed. For the tubeless-ready tire, my question is can you put this on a clincher rim using the stans no tubes products? I know the clincher rims have the hooks for the clincher beads so I am not sure if the tubeless ready will work. If so any advice for successful mounting?
Hello Seth thank you for coming back through and providing me with a history of our conversation and your positive outcome from my recommendation. Keep in mind you will lose some puncture protection as you chose tires that favor speed and comfort in their design.
It is highly recommended that you use a Tubeless ready rim and a tubeless ready tire in combination. For liability reasons that is my strongest recommendation from me to you and all other viewers of my channel.
What follows is just a history lesson and in no way a recommendation. In the past before everything was designed to work together people would do “ghetto tubeless”. They would take a non tubeless specific rim and non tubeless specific tire use gorilla tape and create a home and unsanctioned tubeless setup.
Thanks for watching
when i raced in the fifties tubs were only for racing and inter changeable with a normal tyre and tube no glue same valve thoughts on that
What's the difference on clincher folding vs wire beaded? Both use tubes?
Yes they both use tubes. Higher end tires are usually folding and super supple. Wire bead tires are usually lower grade tires and stiffer sidewalls.
I'm trying to find out what a Wire Bead tire is, bought one to replace my old tires and now I'm thinking that the purchase is a mistake
I have trek fx3 disc with TLR wheels . Current tyres are bontrager tube 700/32. Can I install continental 5000 clincher ? Or should I go with continental gator skin clincher ? What would you recommend. Usually ride around 30 km a day . Thank you.
Hi bro thanks for your explanation. I bought a Trek Roscoe 7, Maxxis tires. On the tires it says Tubeless ready. Does it mean they have actually tubeless ready system or it means I can make them tubeless? I bought 2 tubes by the way when I got the bike since 27.5 are harder to find (especially when you're in the mountains right). Thanks again!
I don't know what Trek does from the factory or at their bike shops when the mechanics build the bikes. If a tire says Tubeless Ready it just means it can be ridden tubeless or with a tube. It also means you need sealant should you decide to run it without tubes i.e. tubeless. You should always have tubes when riding tubeless since the sealant won't work 100% of the time. You need to ask YOUR bike shop what they did when they built YOUR bike.
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing.
I am using the normal GP 5000 tires, because I am not using tubeless anymore. I travel for months at a time and my sealant dries out and gives me headaches. I had a bike shop install GP5000 STR 28mm on my bike , which I use an innertube and I paid almost $100 per tire. Last week I purchased the standard GP 5000 30mm tires. They were on sale for $38 each , after mounting them, I pulled out my micrometer to measure the width. The 28mm STR were 29.6 mm and my new 30mm were 29.5mm. The tires were not easy to mount, but I learned a few tips, mount the stem part last,, use gloves and spray some water near the bead, which helps the installation.. Are TL tires actually a better ride??
I got larger measurement on the 30 mm on the same wheels both tubeless. I’m not convinced the tubeless offer a better ride. Yes the tubeless are at LEAST $100
I just got a cheap e-bike with clincher rims and tires and tubes. When the tires get worn, can I go tubeless without replacing the clincher style rims?
You need tubeless rims
I have a Cannondale Quick 1. The tires (700 x 32) say "Tubeless Ready". Does that mean they are tubeless or just ready to be tubeless if I want to go in that direction?
You need to find out if they have tubes installed and if the rim has tubeless tape installed. A tubeless ready tire means it can be ridden tubeless AND you should have sealant in them
I am confused is clincher tires can be converted to tubeless? Also can you mount a clincher tires in hookless rims?
Clincher tires should not be converted to tubeless. Tubeless can be used with a tube. You can not mount clincher tires on hookless rims.
Just getting into cycling, why is it all so complicated 😩
Ha ha! It’s not really. Based on your riding there is only one clear choice. There may seem to be so many options but when you get right down to it one only tire type and rim combination is right for you.
What is the difference between tubular and clinchers they both seems to be similar and has tubes therein
Yes they both have tubes inside. But with a clincher you can replace the tube with relative ease on the side of the road. With a tubular typically speaking you have to replace the entire tire you don’t have access to the tube.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad yes I get...but both seems to be sealed that you have to loosen the thread and sew to get the tubes out...one of the tires I have... the tubes seems glued to the tire..And I think the rims are tubulars...it’s just a road bike which I exchanged my mtb bike from a bike dealer..ever since then I’ve not rode it...the tires has been and issue
@@user-tw9pq4qt4m it would be rare that the bike dealer didn’t tell you that he “sold” you a bike with tubular tires
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad yea..and tubulars are quiet expensive
I’ve been trying to mend the ones that came with it they are bad..or see if I could get a used tubular tire size 28...I’ve gone round the city where I live no one seems to know about it.
What carbon wheels do you recommend?
That is a very broad question. I’m not a fan of carbon wheels. Tell me why you want carbon wheels?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Cos they're faster and feel better than my alloys
@@DanTuber personally I don’t recommend people ride carbon wheels. However, you will need to provide A LOT more information before me or anyone could ever make a recommendation on a set of wheels for you.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Why don't you recommend?
@@DanTuber because most carbon wheels are just waiting to break! There is a long list as to why I don’t recommend carbon wheels. You still didn’t give me any information on yourself.