About 5 years ago I did two drain and refills as preventive maintenance on my Xd. It was shifting fine and I went with Valvoline Max life full synthetic. My gas mileage actually improved by about two mpg. What made it shift like butter I did accidentally, my battery died and I had to have one delivered, it took about a week. During that week it was completely removed so it drained the computer of residual energy and reset itself. When I put in the new battery the shifts were noticeably smoother.
just some extra tips to anyone a little hesitant to change the transmission fluid, here's everything you need to know: 1. you very likely do NOT need to flush the system. It is not only a painstaking process but it can actually allow the transmission to slip if you have too many miles on your car and you flush it, more on that later. a flush is really not required, despite only getting at most half of the fluid changed out. 2. do your fluid changes every 50k miles! when looking to buy an xd, or if you already have one, ask when the fluid was last changed. 99% of the time youre either going to get a "what?" or "never" sort of answer, because most people dont bother. you absolutely should though if you want the transmission to _really_ last and continue shifting smoothly. 3. if you have over 150k miles, and the fluid was never changed, do a thorough inspection of the fluid and talk to a shop if you arent sure. Too many miles on transmission fluid can burn it out or leave too much dirt in the system, and this extra dirt may be the only reason your transmission still shifts. change the fluid now and you run the risk of slip. my old volvo had 172k miles when we bought it and i never changed the fluid in it because it mightve slipped, and i sold it before it ever did, which is what youre gonna wanna do. watch scotty kilmer or chrisfix on their transmission change videos for more information, they break it down a whole lot better than i can here. 4. change the right type and amount! your vehicle was designed to run on a specific kind of fluid and too little or too much of it can be harmful. 5. change the filter every other time, if not every time! replace the gasket on the transmission cover just as often. it does add to the cost but a new filter is a whole lot more inexpensive than a new transmission, and a whole lot less headache. i change the filter every time because i want my car to go as long as itll go with as little breakdowns as possible, but hey you do what you want. 6. exactly as was done in the video, shift through each gear several times, i suggest 10 times for each specific gear, at first slower (10sec) but you can speed up for later shifts. this will allow the fluid to get all throughout the transmission and give you an accurate reading, and minimize damage while driving. check out this forum for more info; of course its about the more popular xb but majority of the same principles will apply. invertalon's comment sums up a whole lot of info real nicely. www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-xb-2nd-gen-owners-lounge-1768/transmission-fluid-change-229479/
Isn’t a drain and refill the same has a flush??? If not whats the difference? Also what’ did you use for the gasket to keep it secure from moving during reinstalling? Thank you
A drain and refill is not the same as a flush. A flush is cleaning out all of the transmission fluid, dirt, debris etc that is in your transmission. It takes a certain type of high level machine that only some mechanics have. Some of those things in your transmission (like older fluids and debris) are actually necessary for your transmission to not slip (keeps friction). That’s why when you hear about people doing a flush and they drive their car again it starts to slip instead of operating normally. Only drain and refill. Meaning, what I’ve done in this video - let old fluid out and then fill new fluid back in. I’m not really sure what you mean about what I used to keep the gasket secure from moving during reinstall but I just installed the new gasket to the pan and then attached it back and it was secure. Hopefully that explains things for you.
@@how2foryoudiy ok so a flush is probably the vacuum system they offer at Jiffy lube, Valvoline oil shops. And about the gasket, I thought many you need a special hot glue to secure gasket in place. Thank you for your reply. And if you have any other useful tips please comment them:)
so what you did was drain and fill or you did a flush and fill. and do you have to change the gasket and filter every time you fill up transmission fluid?. in my case on the dipstick i have reddish color fluid which is obvioudly good but it is low and needs to be filled. so do i have to do a flush and fill or just drain and fill and also do i need to change the gasket and filter like you did. I have a 2012 scion xb thanks
A drain and refill. Do not do a flush. I would highly recommend changing the gasket and filter since you’re doing all that work anyways. I would just recommend following the steps like this video, all of them are important and necessary.
But you changed only 60-70% of ATF ,if I remember correctly this Scion takes around 3.7 qt of ATF . After changing ATF first time you need to drain out ATF at least another 1-2 times after driving your car 500 miles and add fresh ATF again .
I just did a transmission fluid change on my Xd.. turned on perfectly before i did it and now it doesnt even crank... Do you think the oil chnage has something yo do with it
I have so many questions. So you changed the transmission fluid only and now it won’t start? Did you also change your oil? If you changed your oil, how much did you put in? Also, how much transmission fluid did you change? Did you change your ATF like this or another way? Be as specific as possible? This doesn’t seem right. Could be a whole other issue.
I did not. I just tightened them pretty snug without stripping the bolts. I’m sure there are torque specifications online to find but it’s fine to just securely tighten them.
i understand not wanting to overtorque or undertorque the bolts which could be difficult to those who are unexperienced or even anyone who is trying to maximize thread life. torque specifications are as follows: atf drain plug: 36ft-lbs atf pan bolts: 5.9ft-lbs atf filter bolts: 4.1ft-lbs hope this helps.
Do you really need a new filter?? I've heard toyotas use ones with filters you just clean out and re use since it's a screen. Also toyota dealership also said this as well. I have the same car and am about to do it also.
You can reuse the old filter if you clean it out and then reinstall it. But why do that when you’re doing all that work? From my research, and imo, I believe you should just replace with a new filter.
How many miles were on your car? I just got a 2009 Scion from my wife (she gets the new car and I sold my car), and I want to change the fluid. I am scared it's going to be black.. will check it out later.
There was roughly 45k miles. I would suggest since your car is already this old to just go ahead and change it (especially if it's never been changed before). Most Japanese cars need ATF changes in intervals of every 30 - 50 miles. Hope this helps.
You can just use any Toyota ATF WS for the fluid and for filter just something like this will do just fine: www.amazon.com/ATP-B-207-Automatic-Transmission-Filter/dp/B000C8NTXK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3QOSLQZ8G5NZM&keywords=2009+scion+XD+transmission+filter&qid=1678159901&replacementKeywords=transmission+filter&sprefix=2009+scion+xd+transmission+filter%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-2&vehicle=2009-91-6591------------&vehicleName=2009+Scion+xD
@@UriyZ9mb8e i want to buy all toyota brand parts. Just the filter from toyota is over $100. I feel like autozone parts are not that good. I will like to find all the parts numbers. Even the drain plug crush washer
@@depdark1 ill start by saying that it is not necessary to get exact oem parts, toyota did not manufacture the crush washers, they bought them and then put them into the cars, any crush washer that fits should work fine. here are as many original part numbers as i could find. it should apply to any U341E transmission. crush washer: 90430-A0003 or 9043018008 drain plug: 90341-18021 or 9008034016 fill plug: 90341-18038 pan bolts: 9008011496 filter: 353300W020 fluid: 00289ATFWS
It’s sealed in terms of you need to take the transmission pan off in order to get to the transmission filter and fluid. Don’t think you can access the transmission itself without dropping the transmission out from under the car in order to access that part itself. Hope that helps.
About 5 years ago I did two drain and refills as preventive maintenance on my Xd. It was shifting fine and I went with Valvoline Max life full synthetic. My gas mileage actually improved by about two mpg. What made it shift like butter I did accidentally, my battery died and I had to have one delivered, it took about a week. During that week it was completely removed so it drained the computer of residual energy and reset itself. When I put in the new battery the shifts were noticeably smoother.
Where did you buy that bucket with the measurements? Excellent!
I think it was just like this. You can get it at Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-5-Gallon-Natural-Paint-Bucket-05GHDXMX/314119192
just some extra tips to anyone a little hesitant to change the transmission fluid, here's everything you need to know:
1. you very likely do NOT need to flush the system. It is not only a painstaking process but it can actually allow the transmission to slip if you have too many miles on your car and you flush it, more on that later. a flush is really not required, despite only getting at most half of the fluid changed out.
2. do your fluid changes every 50k miles! when looking to buy an xd, or if you already have one, ask when the fluid was last changed. 99% of the time youre either going to get a "what?" or "never" sort of answer, because most people dont bother. you absolutely should though if you want the transmission to _really_ last and continue shifting smoothly.
3. if you have over 150k miles, and the fluid was never changed, do a thorough inspection of the fluid and talk to a shop if you arent sure. Too many miles on transmission fluid can burn it out or leave too much dirt in the system, and this extra dirt may be the only reason your transmission still shifts. change the fluid now and you run the risk of slip. my old volvo had 172k miles when we bought it and i never changed the fluid in it because it mightve slipped, and i sold it before it ever did, which is what youre gonna wanna do. watch scotty kilmer or chrisfix on their transmission change videos for more information, they break it down a whole lot better than i can here.
4. change the right type and amount! your vehicle was designed to run on a specific kind of fluid and too little or too much of it can be harmful.
5. change the filter every other time, if not every time! replace the gasket on the transmission cover just as often. it does add to the cost but a new filter is a whole lot more inexpensive than a new transmission, and a whole lot less headache. i change the filter every time because i want my car to go as long as itll go with as little breakdowns as possible, but hey you do what you want.
6. exactly as was done in the video, shift through each gear several times, i suggest 10 times for each specific gear, at first slower (10sec) but you can speed up for later shifts. this will allow the fluid to get all throughout the transmission and give you an accurate reading, and minimize damage while driving.
check out this forum for more info; of course its about the more popular xb but majority of the same principles will apply. invertalon's comment sums up a whole lot of info real nicely.
www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-xb-2nd-gen-owners-lounge-1768/transmission-fluid-change-229479/
i agree with this
EXTREMEMLY HELPFUL! Thank you 🙏
Did you put the floor jack under the transmission pan?
Isn’t a drain and refill the same has a flush??? If not whats the difference? Also what’ did you use for the gasket to keep it secure from moving during reinstalling? Thank you
A drain and refill is not the same as a flush. A flush is cleaning out all of the transmission fluid, dirt, debris etc that is in your transmission. It takes a certain type of high level machine that only some mechanics have. Some of those things in your transmission (like older fluids and debris) are actually necessary for your transmission to not slip (keeps friction). That’s why when you hear about people doing a flush and they drive their car again it starts to slip instead of operating normally. Only drain and refill. Meaning, what I’ve done in this video - let old fluid out and then fill new fluid back in. I’m not really sure what you mean about what I used to keep the gasket secure from moving during reinstall but I just installed the new gasket to the pan and then attached it back and it was secure. Hopefully that explains things for you.
@@how2foryoudiy ok so a flush is probably the vacuum system they offer at Jiffy lube, Valvoline oil shops. And about the gasket, I thought many you need a special hot glue to secure gasket in place. Thank you for your reply. And if you have any other useful tips please comment them:)
@@22cecegirl Most likely. Just don’t do it. Only drain and refill. Most good mechanics know this. As for the gasket, no glue. Thank you.
so what you did was drain and fill or you did a flush and fill. and do you have to change the gasket and filter every time you fill up transmission fluid?. in my case on the dipstick i have reddish color fluid which is obvioudly good but it is low and needs to be filled. so do i have to do a flush and fill or just drain and fill and also do i need to change the gasket and filter like you did. I have a 2012 scion xb thanks
A drain and refill. Do not do a flush. I would highly recommend changing the gasket and filter since you’re doing all that work anyways. I would just recommend following the steps like this video, all of them are important and necessary.
Thanks for the video, I own a Scion auto trans 2013 xD
Thanks for watching. They are great little, reliable cars.
But you changed only 60-70% of ATF ,if I remember correctly this Scion takes around 3.7 qt of ATF . After changing ATF first time you need to drain out ATF at least another 1-2 times after driving your car 500 miles and add fresh ATF again .
Thanks my mom needed her cars changed
Glad it helped.
What was the mileage on the car before the oil Change ? I have one with 109k miles do you think its a good idea changing it
About 45 thousand miles. Yes, I would highly recommend you change it.
I just did a transmission fluid change on my Xd.. turned on perfectly before i did it and now it doesnt even crank... Do you think the oil chnage has something yo do with it
I have so many questions. So you changed the transmission fluid only and now it won’t start? Did you also change your oil? If you changed your oil, how much did you put in? Also, how much transmission fluid did you change? Did you change your ATF like this or another way? Be as specific as possible? This doesn’t seem right. Could be a whole other issue.
Thank you, this helps!
So it should be in park with engine running? Or engine off?
In park and engine off while working on the car. Follow the directions starting @ 6:35
@@how2foryoudiy It sounds like it is idling, though.
Hey u when put back transmission pan did u torque the bolts??
I did not. I just tightened them pretty snug without stripping the bolts. I’m sure there are torque specifications online to find but it’s fine to just securely tighten them.
@@how2foryoudiy oh ok thanks
i understand not wanting to overtorque or undertorque the bolts which could be difficult to those who are unexperienced or even anyone who is trying to maximize thread life. torque specifications are as follows:
atf drain plug: 36ft-lbs
atf pan bolts: 5.9ft-lbs
atf filter bolts: 4.1ft-lbs
hope this helps.
Do you really need a new filter?? I've heard toyotas use ones with filters you just clean out and re use since it's a screen.
Also toyota dealership also said this as well.
I have the same car and am about to do it also.
You can reuse the old filter if you clean it out and then reinstall it. But why do that when you’re doing all that work? From my research, and imo, I believe you should just replace with a new filter.
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you enjoyed.
How many miles were on your car? I just got a 2009 Scion from my wife (she gets the new car and I sold my car), and I want to change the fluid. I am scared it's going to be black.. will check it out later.
There was roughly 45k miles. I would suggest since your car is already this old to just go ahead and change it (especially if it's never been changed before). Most Japanese cars need ATF changes in intervals of every 30 - 50 miles. Hope this helps.
@@how2foryoudiy Thanks, one more question. Was there a crusher on the transmission pan?
@@JohnSmith-ef6rg I can't remember but it's a good idea to use one. So doesn't hurt.
Can you link all the toyota part numbers. Im meaning to do this soon
You can just use any Toyota ATF WS for the fluid and for filter just something like this will do just fine:
www.amazon.com/ATP-B-207-Automatic-Transmission-Filter/dp/B000C8NTXK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3QOSLQZ8G5NZM&keywords=2009+scion+XD+transmission+filter&qid=1678159901&replacementKeywords=transmission+filter&sprefix=2009+scion+xd+transmission+filter%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-2&vehicle=2009-91-6591------------&vehicleName=2009+Scion+xD
@@UriyZ9mb8e i want to buy all toyota brand parts. Just the filter from toyota is over $100. I feel like autozone parts are not that good. I will like to find all the parts numbers. Even the drain plug crush washer
@@depdark1 ill start by saying that it is not necessary to get exact oem parts, toyota did not manufacture the crush washers, they bought them and then put them into the cars, any crush washer that fits should work fine. here are as many original part numbers as i could find. it should apply to any U341E transmission.
crush washer: 90430-A0003 or 9043018008
drain plug: 90341-18021 or 9008034016
fill plug: 90341-18038
pan bolts: 9008011496
filter: 353300W020
fluid: 00289ATFWS
Do these have a sealed transmission?
It’s sealed in terms of you need to take the transmission pan off in order to get to the transmission filter and fluid. Don’t think you can access the transmission itself without dropping the transmission out from under the car in order to access that part itself. Hope that helps.
Que mucho tu sabes de transmisión jajaja ese aceite nunca se cambia nuncaaaaa por qué de seguro la vas a dañar por haberlo hecho