great video, it's very nice to watch homemade tutorials like this video, no ads, no sponsors. just Woodcraft Hamster doing his thing.. well done and Thank You.
Just tried this using equal amounts of ground nut oil and beeswax - worked ok. I applied mine hot, straight from the hob! People also say that hot rapeseed oil is great too as it penetrates well and so can be used to weatherproof. Other videos show people heating oil/wax finishes with a heat gun to aid penetration and provide an even finish.
Hi, thank you, I found your video today, it's Aug 2020. I followed your instructions. I had bees wax pellets. I used your 2 parts wax and one part olive oil as that's all I have on hand. I have an antique carved wooden nutcracker that I wanted to restore. I rubbed the softish wax oil mix onto the wood figure with my fingers. It was quite thick. Then rubbed the mixture into the wood well, and used elbow grease to get the residue off. I used paper towel to keep cleaning off the residue and got it to a nice patina. It's a vintage female figure nutcracker. Looks much better. Happy. Thanks again for your for video.
I made a batch of beeswax and 100% virgin olive oil. I used a touch more oil than you did, and I came up with a very nice paste texture, Thank you for your videos and help. new sub earned
I use 3 parts walnut oil to 1 part beeswax... I apply this when its still liquefied and runny and still very warm to touch, Use it on all my axe handles, Kitchen chopping boards and my workbench including my tablesaw bench. Penetrates lovely and dries non greasy. I also use the same ingredients 2 parts beeswax to 1 part walnut oil and this gets applied to all my leather goods including all my work boots etc, Makes them very waterproof as well. This gets applied dry in its solid form, I store it all in old .22 pellet tins
if you add more oil ratio then beeswax, you will get a much easier to apply substance , no heat required. kinda like a lip balm quite honestly , applied to wood tho it will soak and protect the wood just as it's doing on this video
I actually use a similar concoction for both leather and wood. I use half beeswax, 25% sweet almond oil and 25% virgin coconut oil. It works well as a leather finish as well as a protectant for woods. I also use the stuff for chapped hands, lips, to apply over cuts or rough skin.
I just discovered this finish by accident. I have been making salves and balms For a couple of years now and have just started carving spoons (eg. comfrey salve, dried comfrey leaves steeped in EV olive oil for about ten weeks and then strained and blended with the beeswax in a Bain Marie (pan of heated water with your grated beeswax, once melted blend the oil and pour into jars), I had some poplar from the local golf club which I have carved, I also boiled the finished products in salt water for a few minutes (prevents splitting apparently?). Once dried, I lightly sanded and applied a good layer of salve and let it soak in. I’m not sure how durable it is though. Top tip 1 - tell the missus you are making skin products for her and you will be able to use any pan in the kitchen Top tip 2 - comfrey salve is great for healing cuts and grazes which is fantastic when you are a beginner at whittling spoons, trust me I have the scars.
I found a dumped bee house beside a fire pit in a park near my home. 8 trays full of wax a small amount of honey. I dumped the honey gave the wax 3 heats to get rid of grit & so on. Feels awesome getting a freebee like that will use your method thank you.
Use cleaned empties tuna tins or other small shallow tin can, they work much better than foil. Also, try adding a bit more oil to the mixture with a small amount of vodka while still warm. It makes it easier to spread and penetrate. I make a gunstock wax product that is all natural that is beeswax based.
+John Saia I was going to say the same thing except for the vodka. I make a couple of beeswax mixtures. One is beeswax with coconut and walnut oil. Another is just with walnut oil. I've done the same with some mineral oil added to the above mixtures and have also done one with linseed oil and beeswax. All of them are safe for your skin so you can use them to wax wood and metal and then as a hand or lip lotion. :) I carry a small round tin with a screw top in my every day carry stuff to protect my knives, scissors and other tools. I keep my tools in a roll and this way I don't have oily tools soaking into the roll because I wax my tools instead of oiling them to protect them from rust.
You should use an empty can (tin) of tuna for the purpose of melting the oils. Then you'll always have them around. I use empty cans for everything, paints, water, etc
+Kasia K M Yea, my sister told me about those, that they have chemicals in them. I was just trying to be helpful for those who don't use a double boiler. I do. It has a pot for boiling the water, and then you have an insert with holes in it so the steam comes up, and then I put a glass or ceramic bowl with a lid on it in there, and that's where I melt all my bees wax and other natural products like cocoa butter etc to make lotions from. But if you're just making it for polishing wood, it would be good enough melting it in a tin.
I'm not even totally sure it's possible to get tin cans without the epoxy liners now, because they were introduced in order to stop the leaching of chromium and nickel (depending on the composition of the 'tin can' of course!) into the contents of cans. The epoxy liners are food-grade when at their designed temperature. However, they contain bisphenol A (a carcinogen) and a host of other harmful substances, which when heated will leach into the contents of the can. Aluminium foil is designed for high temperatures and cooking, so personally I would opt for that. Generally I would be wary of using a can for heating, especially if doing so repeatedly over a long period of time. This is important because food-safe wood finishes are a necessity for any wood product that will be used with food ( to state the obvious!) and using a can risks introducing metallic or plastic byproducts into the finish.
+Kasia K M, well if that's the case, good point. Find a tiny iron pan and cook it in there! I have a cute little black iron skillet which I use to burn sage in, as well as cook a couple eggs in every once in awhile. I think that would be the safest bet for someone who wants to melt wax. Just purchase one at a garage sale or second hand store. Those pans last a long time. But of course, if you get them all rusty, you'll have to clean em up first and then do some oiling with heat until they're black and smooth as new. Haha!
almond oil is that a food cooking oil as where i am in Australia where we are limited on woodworking finishes and if i can make my own would save a lot of money and time.
Rob's Woodworking it is indeed, the same stuff you can pick up at the supermarket. I use almond, walnut and rapeseed most often but many cooking oils work well, I try to avoid olive and vegetable oils as I have found they don’t work to well and can leave a funny residue. I started using them ages ago as the are easily available, come in a variety of colours/shades and generally speaking are cheaper than “proper” wood oils. You just need to be carful with things like almond and walnut due to nut allergies.
It works fine with olive oil as I use this on some of my spoons and spatulas however I have never tried with sunflower oil. In principle it should work just fine. There are some who worry about food oils going rancid but I have never had a problem with olive, walnut, almond or rapeseed though perhaps a very low grade vegetable oil may cause this type of problem.
I have a school project, in which i need to make a sanding block. My teacher specified non toxic finishes only, and i was wondering if this would be a viable option. If so, how many layers would you recommend and how long should i wait between layers?
For something like a sanding block that will have fairly heavy use I would about any type of wax, although good for food items the pressure of sanding will quickly run the wax off. Usually I would say use boiled linseed oil as this is my mainstay for tool handles and the like but there is some debate over its toxicity (I have personally never had an issue but other I know have had adverse reactions to it). Your best bet would be raw linseed oil otherwise known as flaxseed oil. If possible slightly warm up the block in an oven in a low heat and apply the first coat, let this soak in for an few hours and then wipe off any excess. Repeat the applications daily for a few days and you should be good to go.
Just one application is right however I don't use my cup every day. Like any wax finished item it does need occasional maintenance and re applications, I probably refinish mine once every 3 or 4 months. If your planning on using it heavily with hot liquids I would suggest giving it a hot oil finish first then applying the wax as this will make it a lot more durable.
I recently have finished crafting a tobacco pipe, along with a case. Is this beeswax mixture okay to apply on dried oil paint? I have to commit to using it in liquid form with a brush, as some of the pieces are too thin or covered with a thin layer of paint to rub it on. Thanks for the upload, Dave
Applying it won't be a problem with a brush but you do need to buff it off quite vigorously to bring it to a shine. Not sure how you would manage it if the surface was as thin or brittle as you say.
+Woodcraft Hamster I am thinking of using a Dremel, complimented with a buffing wheel bit. I looked into other finishes....My first idea was to use shellac, but I have have bad experiences when adding it to colors- it soaked into the berry stain, and dulled the brightness. And synthetic finishes do not sound like a good idea due to the chemicals involved.
A dremel buffer should work just fine, and be a lot easier than hand buffing. All you need is enough friction to remove the top layer of wax which a rotary tool should provide far easier than your hands.
Dave, I know your comment is two years old, but I too use Beeswax on my tobacco pipes. The trick is to use pure beeswax; don't mix it with oil. The oil evaporates when the pipe heats up and leads to uneven burning, which as you know could ruin the pipe. Beeswax is fine, but there's a reason Carnuba is the wax of choice on wood pipes.
It's pretty durable even with hot liquids however if you are using none wooden utensils (especially metal) in it you do risk scraping away small amounts of wax. If you give it an oil finish first this is just an aesthetic issue and can be easily solved by giving it a fresh coat periodically. If you don't pre oil it should still be durable as long as you apply the finish in its liquid form I.e hot as it will then penetrate the wood in a similar way.
Hello, from Esquimalt, BC! Many woodworkers here use this type of finish, specially on food boards, carved forks, spoons, etc. As far as I know, if you wish to darken the compound, there are 2 ways to do it. On a food item I'd melt wax crayons to get the right colour; Crayola's marketed as non-toxic. The other way (which may be faster), buy a wax finishing pencil available at paint and hardware stores. Get one that exposes the core by pulling a string through layers of paper and peeling It off. They come in a range of colours, you'll find one that works for you.
No silly questions just silly answers (and people a lot of the time). It generally stands up quite well to heat from food and liquids but you do have to take a bit of care when cleaning - no dishwashers or soaking. What your tying to do when applying it is to get the hot finish to penetrate into the wood, once it's in it take a lot to get it out.
In theory provided it's 100% natural beeswax you can't go far wrong. If your using it on wooden ware for eating you can play it safe by going with food grade but I have used several types with no ill effects. The best place I have found to buy it is small markets and craft fairs where you can support local small businesses or if this isn't possible you can pick it up fair cheaply on places like eBay. Hope that helps.
+Joe Smith Just get 100% pure beeswax. It's either white or yellow. The yellow stuff varies in color from a bright yellow to almost brown. If you buy a "grade" you'll probably pay more than it's worth. Sellers assume you don't know that beeswax is beeswax and jack up the price as if their "cosmetic grade" is something extra special. It's not.
Well, thank you. I've been searching for weeks to find out if I need a special kind of beeswax to use on my cutting boards. Finally, someone addressed it. Thanks Fuzzy Johnson.
jah vaults I dont see why not, im not an expert on leather finishes so stand to be corrected but I know beeswax if often the main ingredient and cant imagine the oil would be harmful.
Woodcraft Hamster just made some today! It was good fun and easy to make. I made it with olive oil as thats all i had. It even works as a boot polish! :p
Glad it worked out well for you. Good tip about the boot polish too, not tried it on any leather but don't see why it wouldn't work to create a weatherproof barrier and the oil may go some way to penetrating and nourishing the leather. It's always nice to have something like this that you have made yourself and from natural materials (even if mine are shop bought).
+Rory McCabe Should be absolutely fine for a dresser but would take a fair while to apply and then buff off afterwards. The modern shop bought finishes you can buy are designed to be easier to apply but if your happy to put in the elbow grease this should be fine.
I can't see any reason why not! The beeswax finish is just creating a surface barrier to water and staining, I sometimes finish with oil first before the wax is applied, especially if it is someone that will be holding hot liquids.
I would imagine that other waxes, such as paraffin, would work however beeswax is what I am familiar with. I couldn't comment on the food safe qualities of other waxes but if it is just going to be a decorative item I can't see that being an issue.
Kindly rather farm with Hamsters. How can I warm a whole tabletop? Expensive oils no go. Use turpentine or thinners. Wood will gulp it up and once evaporated only wax is left. Mine lasted for fifty years!
Unless I'm missing something the type of nut oil I am using is produced specifically for consumption. That of course doesn't apply to people with nut allergies.
+Woodcraft Hamster yes I no but if you have a nut alagey it is not safe I had a chap that gave one of my pieces as a present to his sisster who ended up ill with using it
great video, it's very nice to watch homemade tutorials like this video, no ads, no sponsors. just Woodcraft Hamster doing his thing.. well done and Thank You.
Just tried this using equal amounts of ground nut oil and beeswax - worked ok. I applied mine hot, straight from the hob! People also say that hot rapeseed oil is great too as it penetrates well and so can be used to weatherproof. Other videos show people heating oil/wax finishes with a heat gun to aid penetration and provide an even finish.
Hi, thank you, I found your video today, it's Aug 2020. I followed your instructions. I had bees wax pellets. I used your 2 parts wax and one part olive oil as that's all I have on hand. I have an antique carved wooden nutcracker that I wanted to restore. I rubbed the softish wax oil mix onto the wood figure with my fingers. It was quite thick. Then rubbed the mixture into the wood well, and used elbow grease to get the residue off. I used paper towel to keep cleaning off the residue and got it to a nice patina. It's a vintage female figure nutcracker. Looks much better. Happy. Thanks again for your for video.
I made a batch of beeswax and 100% virgin olive oil. I used a touch more oil than you did, and I came up with a very nice paste texture, Thank you for your videos and help. new sub earned
I use 3 parts walnut oil to 1 part beeswax... I apply this when its still liquefied and runny and still very warm to touch, Use it on all my axe handles, Kitchen chopping boards and my workbench including my tablesaw bench. Penetrates lovely and dries non greasy. I also use the same ingredients 2 parts beeswax to 1 part walnut oil and this gets applied to all my leather goods including all my work boots etc, Makes them very waterproof as well. This gets applied dry in its solid form, I store it all in old .22 pellet tins
if you add more oil ratio then beeswax, you will get a much easier to apply substance , no heat required. kinda like a lip balm quite honestly , applied to wood tho it will soak and protect the wood just as it's doing on this video
I actually use a similar concoction for both leather and wood. I use half beeswax, 25% sweet almond oil and 25% virgin coconut oil. It works well as a leather finish as well as a protectant for woods. I also use the stuff for chapped hands, lips, to apply over cuts or rough skin.
The oils (Walnut, Almond, or Coconut) won't go rancid over time?
I just discovered this finish by accident. I have been making salves and balms For a couple of years now and have just started carving spoons (eg. comfrey salve, dried comfrey leaves steeped in EV olive oil for about ten weeks and then strained and blended with the beeswax in a Bain Marie (pan of heated water with your grated beeswax, once melted blend the oil and pour into jars), I had some poplar from the local golf club which I have carved, I also boiled the finished products in salt water for a few minutes (prevents splitting apparently?). Once dried, I lightly sanded and applied a good layer of salve and let it soak in. I’m not sure how durable it is though.
Top tip 1 - tell the missus you are making skin products for her and you will be able to use any pan in the kitchen
Top tip 2 - comfrey salve is great for healing cuts and grazes which is fantastic when you are a beginner at whittling spoons, trust me I have the scars.
This helps a lot with my kuksa-making-project! Thanks a lot. Also I appreciate how you respond to many people's questions:) keep up the great work.
Heating the wood beforehand was a good tip. Yeah I don't own a microwave either. I like eating food in its natural state :)
I found a dumped bee house beside a fire pit in a park near my home. 8 trays full of wax a small amount of honey. I dumped the honey gave the wax 3 heats to get rid of grit & so on. Feels awesome getting a freebee like that will use your method thank you.
Use cleaned empties tuna tins or other small shallow tin can, they work much better than foil. Also, try adding a bit more oil to the mixture with a small amount of vodka while still warm. It makes it easier to spread and penetrate. I make a gunstock wax product that is all natural that is beeswax based.
+John Saia I was going to say the same thing except for the vodka.
I make a couple of beeswax mixtures. One is beeswax with coconut and walnut oil. Another is just with walnut oil.
I've done the same with some mineral oil added to the above mixtures and have also done one with linseed oil and beeswax.
All of them are safe for your skin so you can use them to wax wood and metal and then as a hand or lip lotion. :)
I carry a small round tin with a screw top in my every day carry stuff to protect my knives, scissors and other tools.
I keep my tools in a roll and this way I don't have oily tools soaking into the roll because I wax my tools instead of oiling them to protect them from rust.
Great idea . With that same compounds in this could that be used as a wood polish or would that be made up different material.??? THANKS
Hello, would this be suitable for a wooden floor? Thanks for the informative video.
You won me over for the following: not a fan or microwave and "tin foil." Thanks for the video.
Sorry, I want to know something. Can be used other than olive oil, if using cooking oil, refined palm oil. Can I use oil like that?
Thank you for the great video. Do I have to use wax or can ai inky coat it with oil as well? Without wax?
Does beeswax create a light color on the wood or does it make it more yellow and could I use pure almond oil on the floor?
is it any special type of bees wax you're using, nice vid thanks
I normally buy natural or 100% beeswax from online retailers. It's not particularly expensive.
Beeswax pellets is the way to go.
You should use an empty can (tin) of tuna for the purpose of melting the oils. Then you'll always have them around. I use empty cans for everything, paints, water, etc
+Belialith Thanks for the tip I really like that idea.
+Belialith Just beware of the plastic liners!
+Kasia K M Yea, my sister told me about those, that they have chemicals in them. I was just trying to be helpful for those who don't use a double boiler. I do. It has a pot for boiling the water, and then you have an insert with holes in it so the steam comes up, and then I put a glass or ceramic bowl with a lid on it in there, and that's where I melt all my bees wax and other natural products like cocoa butter etc to make lotions from. But if you're just making it for polishing wood, it would be good enough melting it in a tin.
I'm not even totally sure it's possible to get tin cans without the epoxy liners now, because they were introduced in order to stop the leaching of chromium and nickel (depending on the composition of the 'tin can' of course!) into the contents of cans. The epoxy liners are food-grade when at their designed temperature. However, they contain bisphenol A (a carcinogen) and a host of other harmful substances, which when heated will leach into the contents of the can. Aluminium foil is designed for high temperatures and cooking, so personally I would opt for that. Generally I would be wary of using a can for heating, especially if doing so repeatedly over a long period of time. This is important because food-safe wood finishes are a necessity for any wood product that will be used with food ( to state the obvious!) and using a can risks introducing metallic or plastic byproducts into the finish.
+Kasia K M, well if that's the case, good point. Find a tiny iron pan and cook it in there! I have a cute little black iron skillet which I use to burn sage in, as well as cook a couple eggs in every once in awhile. I think that would be the safest bet for someone who wants to melt wax. Just purchase one at a garage sale or second hand store. Those pans last a long time. But of course, if you get them all rusty, you'll have to clean em up first and then do some oiling with heat until they're black and smooth as new. Haha!
almond oil is that a food cooking oil as where i am in Australia where we are limited on woodworking finishes and if i can make my own would save a lot of money and time.
Rob's Woodworking it is indeed, the same stuff you can pick up at the supermarket.
I use almond, walnut and rapeseed most often but many cooking oils work well, I try to avoid olive and vegetable oils as I have found they don’t work to well and can leave a funny residue.
I started using them ages ago as the are easily available, come in a variety of colours/shades and generally speaking are cheaper than “proper” wood oils.
You just need to be carful with things like almond and walnut due to nut allergies.
I heard that edible oils and waxes will eventually mold on the utensil , have you had this problem
What about oak wood flooring? New wood....would you recommend the same? I've seen Olive oil and Vinegar as an option too.
Went to but today to do this activity. No longer blocks sold just pellets. lol
does it work with olive oil or sunflower oil
It works fine with olive oil as I use this on some of my spoons and spatulas however I have never tried with sunflower oil. In principle it should work just fine. There are some who worry about food oils going rancid but I have never had a problem with olive, walnut, almond or rapeseed though perhaps a very low grade vegetable oil may cause this type of problem.
I have a school project, in which i need to make a sanding block. My teacher specified non toxic finishes only, and i was wondering if this would be a viable option. If so, how many layers would you recommend and how long should i wait between layers?
For something like a sanding block that will have fairly heavy use I would about any type of wax, although good for food items the pressure of sanding will quickly run the wax off.
Usually I would say use boiled linseed oil as this is my mainstay for tool handles and the like but there is some debate over its toxicity (I have personally never had an issue but other I know have had adverse reactions to it). Your best bet would be raw linseed oil otherwise known as flaxseed oil. If possible slightly warm up the block in an oven in a low heat and apply the first coat, let this soak in for an few hours and then wipe off any excess. Repeat the applications daily for a few days and you should be good to go.
Hello,thank you for the video. May i ask: one aplication and that's it? If you say it's durble in hot liquids then is very interesting!
Just one application is right however I don't use my cup every day. Like any wax finished item it does need occasional maintenance and re applications, I probably refinish mine once every 3 or 4 months.
If your planning on using it heavily with hot liquids I would suggest giving it a hot oil finish first then applying the wax as this will make it a lot more durable.
+Woodcraft Hamster : Thank you, much obliged.
I recently have finished crafting a tobacco pipe, along with a case. Is this beeswax mixture okay to apply on dried oil paint? I have to commit to using it in liquid form with a brush, as some of the pieces are too thin or covered with a thin layer of paint to rub it on.
Thanks for the upload,
Dave
Applying it won't be a problem with a brush but you do need to buff it off quite vigorously to bring it to a shine. Not sure how you would manage it if the surface was as thin or brittle as you say.
+Woodcraft Hamster I am thinking of using a Dremel, complimented with a buffing wheel bit. I looked into other finishes....My first idea was to use shellac, but I have have bad experiences when adding it to colors- it soaked into the berry stain, and dulled the brightness. And synthetic finishes do not sound like a good idea due to the chemicals involved.
A dremel buffer should work just fine, and be a lot easier than hand buffing.
All you need is enough friction to remove the top layer of wax which a rotary tool should provide far easier than your hands.
I am just going to have to take it slow I guess. Hopefully it runs smoothly.
Dave, I know your comment is two years old, but I too use Beeswax on my tobacco pipes. The trick is to use pure beeswax; don't mix it with oil. The oil evaporates when the pipe heats up and leads to uneven burning, which as you know could ruin the pipe. Beeswax is fine, but there's a reason Carnuba is the wax of choice on wood pipes.
Is that 100°C or 100°F?
Use can also use pure flaxseed oil.
how long does this finish last? and is it durable?
If it isnt durable, how could you make it so while keeping it food safe?
It's pretty durable even with hot liquids however if you are using none wooden utensils (especially metal) in it you do risk scraping away small amounts of wax.
If you give it an oil finish first this is just an aesthetic issue and can be easily solved by giving it a fresh coat periodically.
If you don't pre oil it should still be durable as long as you apply the finish in its liquid form I.e hot as it will then penetrate the wood in a similar way.
how do you get that dark brown finish that antique furniture has? Is that a certain type of oil?
Hello, from Esquimalt, BC!
Many woodworkers here use this type of finish, specially on food boards, carved forks, spoons, etc.
As far as I know, if you wish to darken the compound, there are 2 ways to do it. On a food item I'd melt wax crayons to get the right colour; Crayola's marketed as non-toxic.
The other way (which may be faster), buy a wax finishing pencil available at paint and hardware stores. Get one that exposes the core by pulling a string through layers of paper and peeling It off. They come in a range of colours, you'll find one that works for you.
Would this work on a wood floor?
Wouldn't the new wax come right out as soon as the bowel is subjected to heat?
May be a silly question
No silly questions just silly answers (and people a lot of the time).
It generally stands up quite well to heat from food and liquids but you do have to take a bit of care when cleaning - no dishwashers or soaking.
What your tying to do when applying it is to get the hot finish to penetrate into the wood, once it's in it take a lot to get it out.
+Woodcraft Hamster thank you
Don’t heat your bowel.
@@Barnagh1
Lord knows, there's nothing worse than a hot bowel!
Woodcraft hamster a empty baked beast tin be quicker ? But very great video very nice job on your kuksa 👌🐺🐾🐻🐗
I've never bought beeswax before. Where do I buy it, and what do I look for? I've seen food grade, cosmetic grade and candle grade. Which do I buy?
In theory provided it's 100% natural beeswax you can't go far wrong. If your using it on wooden ware for eating you can play it safe by going with food grade but I have used several types with no ill effects. The best place I have found to buy it is small markets and craft fairs where you can support local small businesses or if this isn't possible you can pick it up fair cheaply on places like eBay. Hope that helps.
+Joe Smith Just get 100% pure beeswax. It's either white or yellow. The yellow stuff varies in color from a bright yellow to almost brown.
If you buy a "grade" you'll probably pay more than it's worth. Sellers assume you don't know that beeswax is beeswax and jack up the price as if their "cosmetic grade" is something extra special. It's not.
Well, thank you. I've been searching for weeks to find out if I need a special kind of beeswax to use on my cutting boards. Finally, someone addressed it. Thanks Fuzzy Johnson.
Great vid mate! Got some bees wax from ebay yesterday so just in time for me to give this a go. Do u think this would work on veg tan leather aswell?
jah vaults I dont see why not, im not an expert on leather finishes so stand to be corrected but I know beeswax if often the main ingredient and cant imagine the oil would be harmful.
Woodcraft Hamster just made some today! It was good fun and easy to make. I made it with olive oil as thats all i had. It even works as a boot polish! :p
Glad it worked out well for you. Good tip about the boot polish too, not tried it on any leather but don't see why it wouldn't work to create a weatherproof barrier and the oil may go some way to penetrating and nourishing the leather.
It's always nice to have something like this that you have made yourself and from natural materials (even if mine are shop bought).
Hindi bhasa me bolo
How about this on a dreesser
+Rory McCabe Should be absolutely fine for a dresser but would take a fair while to apply and then buff off afterwards. The modern shop bought finishes you can buy are designed to be easier to apply but if your happy to put in the elbow grease this should be fine.
Try WHITE beeswax pellets, it does not discolor the wood.
could I do a layer of linseed oil and then the beeswax mixture?
I can't see any reason why not! The beeswax finish is just creating a surface barrier to water and staining, I sometimes finish with oil first before the wax is applied, especially if it is someone that will be holding hot liquids.
+Rinabobina12345 i make linseed oil bees wax for wood its works great
Does it have to be bees wax?
I would imagine that other waxes, such as paraffin, would work however beeswax is what I am familiar with.
I couldn't comment on the food safe qualities of other waxes but if it is just going to be a decorative item I can't see that being an issue.
You'd have made a better show finishing that cutting board
Kindly rather farm with Hamsters. How can I warm a whole tabletop? Expensive oils no go. Use turpentine or thinners. Wood will gulp it up and once evaporated only wax is left. Mine lasted for fifty years!
[WARNING] NUT OIL IS NOT FOOD SAFE
Unless I'm missing something the type of nut oil I am using is produced specifically for consumption. That of course doesn't apply to people with nut allergies.
+Woodcraft Hamster yes I no but if you have a nut alagey it is not safe I had a chap that gave one of my pieces as a present to his sisster who ended up ill with using it
You should edit this, Nut oil is Food safe for those with no allergies.
you talk too much