What Surfing is Actually Like at 50 - Through my Eyes
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- Опубликовано: 4 дек 2023
- Now I appreciate every good surf more than ever.
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Whenever I walk my dog the waves look good . Then it’s 40 min walk , drive home (10 minutes), warm up and stretch (20 minutes), drive back (10 more minutes), and now either the wind is up or 15 blokes have hit it !
Can't believe that I will be surfing at this exact beach in 5 weeks ;) Love the video...the raw audio increases the pov feeling!
I was going to ask about that you talked about at minute 8! I love my early sessions with no one out! But as a rule i dont go out alone, unless is real small and chance of an accident minimizes
Watching you paddle out it's interesting that your board front is mostly underwater the entire time. Do you like having that current buoyancy or do you think more meat in the board would be better? I'm guessing you like the thinner density shredding the faces like you were - just curious.
Sweet!
54 years old here and feel ya...
kool man..i dream of surfing warmer waters...isnt there an advanced battery that lasts longer for the hero 9 upwards..I keep a spare battery with my car key in an aquapack in my wetsuit..if I was where you are i,d stash a spare battery on the beach someplace
still trying to work out where in guanacaste you are. can you give a hint without naming the break?
Fint
hi there, can you add the dimensions of your board please? and your height?
I am 6'3 200 pounds and am trying to order a new board (fish), currently, I am surfing a 6'7 22 44 liters 3 finds.
Why 4 fins and not 2?
Thank you.