I live in CALIFORNIA, took my car to the dealer to find out I was having the exact same issue. They were charging me $3,300 to fix it so I decided to do it my self. This video is pure GOLD, I was able to replace the part over LABOR day weekend and my ac is back 100%..... THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video, I really appreciate it.
Ever since I fixed mine, I haven't been turning it all the way to the max position, either left, or right. I still get plenty of AC even on hot days. And I hope that will keep from breaking the door again. Good luck, glad I could help.
I wanted to say thank you for posting this video I just finished placing all the peaces back and the ac is blowing cold 🥶 I had my ac compressor replace this morning thinking that was the issue but it was the blend door all along… this video really helped and it’s no that difficult to do it. Hope you all have an amazing day
I finally got around to this project today. I had to pinch the heater hose for summer AC now I need my heater back For starters, you need to be very much a mechanical handyman/tech person to do this job. You will need a well stocked tool box with "stuff". It is definitely doable. But If you are the angry type with no patience, this job is not for you. You will just f..k it all up. This is a one shot deal. This blend door failure sucks. I love my SS 2013 Camaro and hate to see her hurt. I ran it by the dealer. They quoted me $2800 to fix and they were very familiar with the problem. They also suggested heater and evaporator core replacement with this job. I can't imagine removing the whole complete dashboard. Just think of all the rattles and noises you will hear once it is all put back together. No way will I have them do this major surgery. My tips and what I learned from the workaround: Obviously disconnect the ground from your battery in the trunk compartment. If you close the trunk lid accidentally like I did, you can drop the rear seats and pull the emergency cord to open. I removed the chair(Roberts instructions). There is a drop down hump from the chair floor board so I added some pads for comfort. You will be going back and and forth many times from under the dash. You should be comfortable laying awkward under the dash and for steady cutting procedure. Heck, this is your precious Camaro and you want to do the best job right? The confusing part at first was to remove the vent tube. Huge cable in the way. All the wires together were connected to something. So I decided to unplug all the connectors one at a time. I noticed a molded enclosure box where the plugs connected. This box (a computer module) is removable. Push the middle clip and it slides right out. Now you will have clearance to remove the vent tube and everything is exposed for the procedure. Obviously I removed the actuator then stuck a flat blade into the slot to see if the blend door moved. NOPE! The broken piece pushed through. I used a dremal saw device like Robert. These saws have angular adjustments on the blade. If you have read this far, you should be able to figure out the geometry adjustment of the blade/motor attachment. I aimed mine about 45 degrees to the right motor shaft facing you. Blade "L" angle up towards you. Pretty much all my cuts used this and using the lowest motor speed. Slow and steady. Although a very clean cut , which is what I wanted, I still had to finish up with a rotary dremal using a 1/8' round bit along the bottom line for removal clearance. Once I FINALLY got the cut out plate removed(Whew!), I was able to fish out the door and broken piece. I was surprised to see that the blend door piece looked like it was violently snapped off as if the actuator passed its limits. So I will be replacing the actuator as well. This is where I am at so far. I am sure it will be much easier now to put it all back together. I want to thank the original pioneer that actually took a chance and figured out how to repair this hideous problem without removing the complete dashboard. So very clever. And thank you so much Robert for the excellent video. Dean
Great video. Wasn't able to use the same tools that you used but there was a lot in this video that made it very helpful. Saved myself $1400! Thank you so much for posting!
Thanks Robert. Did my 2010 SS today and it came out great. I used a Harbor Freight multi tool for the cuts and also took my seat out. That made it so much easier. Air is nice and cold now.
Thank you - done my 2012 after following your video - worked well. The cut was clean and the part was difficult to remove and reinstall. I didn’t have to remove the body control module which made it more difficult to remove the duct piece.
Nice job! I’m getting ready to do this on my son’s camaro. This is the cleanest cut/finish I’ve seen replacing it this way. Thanks for sharing I believe you’ve helped the boy and I a great deal.
Found the blend door on rock auto for $11.36, father fabricated me a hot knife, I'm excited to get this done and after this video I'm confident I can do so.
A hot knife is probably a good way to do it. There os less chance of damaging the A coil or heater core. Be careful, the fumes from melting the plastic can't be good for you. Wear a respirator or at least use a fan to ventilate the area. Good luck.
@@noahmonti1148 I forgot to add, I used that aluminum AC tape to seal it, it conforms to the irregular surfaces flaelessly, nothing has moved that tape is on solid.
No, I just set the temperature control in the middle, so when I put the actuator back on it was not at one extreme or the other. But even if you don't do that, it shouldn't be a problem. The actuator only moves about 90°. And in normal use, I try not to set the temperature all the way hot or cold, so maybe this won't happen again. Good luck.
No, I checked to make sure the the actuator was working, the set it in the middle to make it easier to reassemble. I never set the temperature all the way cold, or hot anymore. My hope is by not settling it to either extreme, I'll keep it from breaking in the future. Good luck.
@@robertgreene1701 the motor turns 90 but the door only moves about thirty or fourty. Programming is necessary,that's why it broke, somewhere along the line the car forgot it's zero points for hot and cold. It's either due to low battery or some service tech stepped on your dick and don't reprogram after they did whatever they did.
Thanks for all the info! ... very helpful ! ( Even though there is no way where I could have cut the piece out with a Dremel saw .... it had to be a rotary tool ) I heard about people using a heat soldering gun.. makes sense, but to sit the piece back in place later, a good about of the piece will have to be grinded off to get more wiggle room. So that will be hard with a soldering gun. I just finished my repair ... A/C working great now !
Hi! Great video! I know you said you set temp in the middle as put the motor back but so you also try to set blend door in the middle position as well before you closed that plastic? Or it doesn’t matter and will sync on its own? Thank
Not really it only moves about 90°, so when you install the white coupling it keeps the door from falling inside, and should have the range of motion to allow you to reinstall the actuator, make sure to not knock it out while you are putting the actuator back on. Before I disconnected the battery, I moved the temperature control to the middle, that way I didn't have to worry about the actuator being in a bind as I reinstalled the screws. Good luck, it's a tedious job, but not impossible.
Ok so I currently went under the dash and unbolted the foot vent tube. How did you manage to unplug the pedal sensor and the rest of the 5 harness plugs to move the bunch of wires out the way to make room to access the Actuator?
@@adanortega4008 I unplugged the cables from the control module and removed it. It was a pain, I have big hand , but I also have long fingers, that helped a lot Everything is just hard to get to, but it beats paying the dealer $2000.00.
I finally came around to fixing the blend door today took a few hours but managed to accomplish it. I just wanna tell you thank you sir for the help. You saved me lots of money but also gave me a learning experience.
Hi Robert! Due to not having heat or air, the dealership told me I too need to replace the blend door. They are telling me they have to pull out the dash and the windshield to do it with a hefty cost of $2500. Since I don't have the tools or time to do this, would you have any suggestions of who might do this without breaking the bank? A specialized AC mechanic? Or is there a natl chain you might suggest?
Just a good mechanic. I don't think it need to be an AC guy, your not really touching the AC system. Just the blend door. But they need to be careful, one slip and the heater core or evaporator can be damaged, and that will be expensive. Robert.
Wait, so I need a scanner to know if the actuator needs replacement as well? I just order everything except the actuator, is it really necessary to get it replaced?
You shouldn't, just disconnect the actuator without taking anything else apart. When you turn the temperature control, with the car running, you should see the actuator move. I think it moves about 90°. Good luck.
I would think so, as long as the AC was off, and the heater core is working properly. You may need to remove the actuator, it may have the door stuck in the AC position, if you remove the actuator, you should be able to see if the door is broken. Also make sure your radiator has water in it, no water, no heat. Just a couple of ideas, could be lots of things stoping the heat.
Pulled the broken one out, and replaced with a new one. The new is exactly the same as the one that broke, so I don't turn the temperature selector fully either way.
Please help, i have the same issue and i was able to follow your good video and managed to do the cut. however, i still cannot pull the cut piece after removing the 7/32 screws. what do i have to do...please help.
After I cut the plastic, it was very difficult to get the piece out. I used a small screwdriver to pry it out. Make sure you cut around the edges completely, if you missed a spot it probably won't come out. But be careful, Don't go too deep, you do not want to hit the AC or the heater core. It was kind of hard to get back in too. If it's cut completely and hard to come out, I'd say you did a good job with that part. Just be careful and go slow.
Hey! may I ask where are you located? I am having the same AC issue, but I am having a hard time removing the floor air duct at the beginning. If you are somewhat close to where I live (Los Angeles), I am willing to pay for labor!
As best as I remember, there are a couple of screws holding it in. And after that it should come right out, other than being a tight fit, and not much room to work in I don't remember any problem getting it out.
@@johnwu98 I live in Oxnard CA, 50 min from Los Angeles. Were you able to fix it? I just fixed mine over the weekend. Let me know if you need any help.
Now go to Chevy or your trusted garage and tell them you want HVAC relearn. The reason that thing broke is because somewhere along the line the computer forgot where cold and hot stops where. The motor just keeps turning the door to it's physical stop and not it's programmed stop. It twits off the knob.
You butcher! Watching you makes me want to cringe. Ha ha, I am just kidding. I am the first person to comment on your first video. FIRST! This is an excellent video. 5 star. You gave the pattern and the tool, and pointed out the problems along the way. You did not do it with an iphone and dark lighting like all the rest of the videos.
Thanks, I've learned a lot from RUclips, just thought I'd give a little back. I appreciate the your response, and I owe a lot of thanks to a friend who helped me edit this video. Thanks again, and maybe I'll come up with something else to make a video about.
I live in CALIFORNIA, took my car to the dealer to find out I was having the exact same issue. They were charging me $3,300 to fix it so I decided to do it my self. This video is pure GOLD, I was able to replace the part over LABOR day weekend and my ac is back 100%..... THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video, I really appreciate it.
Ever since I fixed mine, I haven't been turning it all the way to the max position, either left, or right. I still get plenty of AC even on hot days. And I hope that will keep from breaking the door again. Good luck, glad I could help.
@@robertgreene1701 oh ok cool, good advice.... thanks
I wanted to say thank you for posting this video I just finished placing all the peaces back and the ac is blowing cold 🥶 I had my ac compressor replace this morning thinking that was the issue but it was the blend door all along… this video really helped and it’s no that difficult to do it. Hope you all have an amazing day
Sorry to hear about the compressor, that must have hurt. Glad I could help, just wanted to give something back.
I finally got around to this project today. I had to pinch the heater hose for summer AC now I need my heater back For starters, you need to be very much a mechanical handyman/tech person to do this job. You will need a well stocked tool box with "stuff". It is definitely doable. But If you are the angry type with no patience, this job is not for you. You will just f..k it all up. This is a one shot deal.
This blend door failure sucks. I love my SS 2013 Camaro and hate to see her hurt. I ran it by the dealer. They quoted me $2800 to fix and they were very familiar with the problem. They also suggested heater and evaporator core replacement with this job. I can't imagine removing the whole complete dashboard. Just think of all the rattles and noises you will hear once it is all put back together. No way will I have them do this major surgery.
My tips and what I learned from the workaround:
Obviously disconnect the ground from your battery in the trunk compartment. If you close the trunk lid accidentally like I did, you can drop the rear seats and pull the emergency cord to open. I removed the chair(Roberts instructions). There is a drop down hump from the chair floor board so I added some pads for comfort. You will be going back and and forth many times from under the dash. You should be comfortable laying awkward under the dash and for steady cutting procedure. Heck, this is your precious Camaro and you want to do the best job right?
The confusing part at first was to remove the vent tube. Huge cable in the way. All the wires together were connected to something. So I decided to unplug all the connectors one at a time. I noticed a molded enclosure box where the plugs connected. This box (a computer module) is removable. Push the middle clip and it slides right out. Now you will have clearance to remove the vent tube and everything is exposed for the procedure. Obviously I removed the actuator then stuck a flat blade into the slot to see if the blend door moved. NOPE! The broken piece pushed through. I used a dremal saw device like Robert. These saws have angular adjustments on the blade. If you have read this far, you should be able to figure out the geometry adjustment of the blade/motor attachment. I aimed mine about 45 degrees to the right motor shaft facing you. Blade "L" angle up towards you. Pretty much all my cuts used this and using the lowest motor speed. Slow and steady.
Although a very clean cut , which is what I wanted, I still had to finish up with a rotary dremal using a 1/8' round bit along the bottom line for removal clearance. Once I FINALLY got the cut out plate removed(Whew!), I was able to fish out the door and broken piece. I was surprised to see that the blend door piece looked like it was violently snapped off as if the actuator passed its limits. So I will be replacing the actuator as well. This is where I am at so far. I am sure it will be much easier now to put it all back together. I want to thank the original pioneer that actually took a chance and figured out how to repair this hideous problem without removing the complete dashboard. So very clever.
And thank you so much Robert for the excellent video.
Dean
Nice write up... thanks
Great video. Wasn't able to use the same tools that you used but there was a lot in this video that made it very helpful. Saved myself $1400! Thank you so much for posting!
Thanks Robert. Did my 2010 SS today and it came out great. I used a Harbor Freight multi tool for the cuts and also took my seat out. That made it so much easier. Air is nice and cold now.
hey guys 👋
i had a question about this issue…
would you need to have the system reset done after installing?
I have a 2010 ss that needs this
Thank you - done my 2012 after following your video - worked well. The cut was clean and the part was difficult to remove and reinstall. I didn’t have to remove the body control module which made it more difficult to remove the duct piece.
Nice job! I’m getting ready to do this on my son’s camaro. This is the cleanest cut/finish I’ve seen replacing it this way. Thanks for sharing I believe you’ve helped the boy and I a great deal.
Found the blend door on rock auto for $11.36, father fabricated me a hot knife, I'm excited to get this done and after this video I'm confident I can do so.
A hot knife is probably a good way to do it. There os less chance of damaging the A coil or heater core. Be careful, the fumes from melting the plastic can't be good for you. Wear a respirator or at least use a fan to ventilate the area. Good luck.
This is the absolute best video for this repair. Thank you kindly sir.
I have the confidence do this job now
Great video, I reinforced the new piece with epoxy for plastics to avoid this happenning again, repair has been holding for 1 1/2 years.
Where did you get the new piece?
@@noahmonti1148 tasca or rock auto, i cant remeber, its not hard to find.
@@noahmonti1148 I forgot to add, I used that aluminum AC tape to seal it, it conforms to the irregular surfaces flaelessly, nothing has moved that tape is on solid.
Definitely the best video on how to do this. Thank you for this
No it's not. 737mechanic's video is better. I'm looking for the most detailed ones before I attempt to do mine
You would think this would be a RECALL issue.... I'm having the same problem with my Camaro
Mega thanks for the video!!!!!! Saving me mega bucks on my 2012 with exact part!!
Wow great video. Chevy dealer said 2,471 to do this. Also said they have to take off the windshield. Wow.
Did you have to do any reprogram for the body module or hvac actuator? Planning to do the job by myself, but don't have the computer in case needed.
No, I just set the temperature control in the middle, so when I put the actuator back on it was not at one extreme or the other. But even if you don't do that, it shouldn't be a problem. The actuator only moves about 90°. And in normal use, I try not to set the temperature all the way hot or cold, so maybe this won't happen again. Good luck.
@@robertgreene1701 Great.Thanks Robert!
No, I checked to make sure the the actuator was working, the set it in the middle to make it easier to reassemble. I never set the temperature all the way cold, or hot anymore. My hope is by not settling it to either extreme, I'll keep it from breaking in the future. Good luck.
@@robertgreene1701 the motor turns 90 but the door only moves about thirty or fourty. Programming is necessary,that's why it broke, somewhere along the line the car forgot it's zero points for hot and cold. It's either due to low battery or some service tech stepped on your dick and don't reprogram after they did whatever they did.
Thanks for all the info! ... very helpful ! ( Even though there is no way where I could have cut the piece out with a Dremel saw .... it had to be a rotary tool ) I heard about people using a heat soldering gun.. makes sense, but to sit the piece back in place later, a good about of the piece will have to be grinded off to get more wiggle room. So that will be hard with a soldering gun. I just finished my repair ... A/C working great now !
Do you know if these still happening to the news models like 2017 Camaro.. driver side is got cold ac but passenger is hot.
Sorry, my car is a 2014. I don't know anything about new newer ones.
Hi! Great video!
I know you said you set temp in the middle as put the motor back but so you also try to set blend door in the middle position as well before you closed that plastic? Or it doesn’t matter and will sync on its own? Thank
I will work no matter how it's set, I just think it's a little easier that way. It only moves through about 90° of rotation. Good luck.
@@robertgreene1701 thank you
Is there a certain way the blend door has to be, before the actuator is attached to it? Like is it completely blend door closed or half opened?
Not really it only moves about 90°, so when you install the white coupling it keeps the door from falling inside, and should have the range of motion to allow you to reinstall the actuator, make sure to not knock it out while you are putting the actuator back on. Before I disconnected the battery, I moved the temperature control to the middle, that way I didn't have to worry about the actuator being in a bind as I reinstalled the screws. Good luck, it's a tedious job, but not impossible.
Thank you sir! Very much appreciated ima tackle this job this weekend.
Ok so I currently went under the dash and unbolted the foot vent tube. How did you manage to unplug the pedal sensor and the rest of the 5 harness plugs to move the bunch of wires out the way to make room to access the Actuator?
@@adanortega4008 I unplugged the cables from the control module and removed it. It was a pain, I have big hand , but I also have long fingers, that helped a lot Everything is just hard to get to, but it beats paying the dealer $2000.00.
I finally came around to fixing the blend door today took a few hours but managed to accomplish it. I just wanna tell you thank you sir for the help. You saved me lots of money but also gave me a learning experience.
The dealer should repair these this way! Oh wait...How would they make $2000 in repair labor?
Hi Robert! Due to not having heat or air, the dealership told me I too need to replace the blend door. They are telling me they have to pull out the dash and the windshield to do it with a hefty cost of $2500. Since I don't have the tools or time to do this, would you have any suggestions of who might do this without breaking the bank? A specialized AC mechanic? Or is there a natl chain you might suggest?
Just a good mechanic. I don't think it need to be an AC guy, your not really touching the AC system. Just the blend door. But they need to be careful, one slip and the heater core or evaporator can be damaged, and that will be expensive.
Robert.
@@robertgreene1701 thank you! Calling around now:) Too bad Chevy didn’t issue a recall on this since I’ve seen so many folks have the same problem!
You talked me into finally doing this repair.. thanks.
Did you do it? I'm considering doing it myself
@@kevin-qc7zv actually not yet lol..
@@kevin-qc7zv I did it.. It's easy but sucks at the same time.
@@lbb-ridge482 did it solve your issue? Also is there a door blender on the passenger side as well?
@@kevin-qc7zv yes!
How did you get the foot vent back? I got everything back on but that :( I took off the vent without removing anything the first time…
Mine went back on without too much trouble, I had to work on it a little. As they say, "you have to hold your mouth right".
Wait, so I need a scanner to know if the actuator needs replacement as well? I just order everything except the actuator, is it really necessary to get it replaced?
You shouldn't, just disconnect the actuator without taking anything else apart. When you turn the temperature control, with the car running, you should see the actuator move. I think it moves about 90°. Good luck.
@@robertgreene1701 Thank you so much, you have no idea how much it means to me for your reply.
Thanks for this video heading to get supplies now to do my own ..
would it blow some heat if the door was broken
I would think so, as long as the AC was off, and the heater core is working properly. You may need to remove the actuator, it may have the door stuck in the AC position, if you remove the actuator, you should be able to see if the door is broken. Also make sure your radiator has water in it, no water, no heat. Just a couple of ideas, could be lots of things stoping the heat.
Thanks Robert! Multitool at walmart $20 + part on ebay for $20 + great youtube video = Job Done.
Did you just pull the blend door or did you install a new one in there?
Pulled the broken one out, and replaced with a new one. The new is exactly the same as the one that broke, so I don't turn the temperature selector fully either way.
Please help, i have the same issue and i was able to follow your good video and managed to do the cut. however, i still cannot pull the cut piece after removing the 7/32 screws. what do i have to do...please help.
After I cut the plastic, it was very difficult to get the piece out. I used a small screwdriver to pry it out. Make sure you cut around the edges completely, if you missed a spot it probably won't come out. But be careful, Don't go too deep, you do not want to hit the AC or the heater core. It was kind of hard to get back in too. If it's cut completely and hard to come out, I'd say you did a good job with that part. Just be careful and go slow.
I used dremel attachment . Its a pen like attachment . that make it alot easyer to cut. Take breaks it helps. In less your a lefty.
Hey! may I ask where are you located? I am having the same AC issue, but I am having a hard time removing the floor air duct at the beginning. If you are somewhat close to where I live (Los Angeles), I am willing to pay for labor!
Couple of thousand miles away. Memphis
Would you mind sharing how you get the floor air duct out? I tried wiggling and pulling, but no luck
As best as I remember, there are a couple of screws holding it in. And after that it should come right out, other than being a tight fit, and not much room to work in I don't remember any problem getting it out.
@@johnwu98 I live in Oxnard CA, 50 min from Los Angeles. Were you able to fix it? I just fixed mine over the weekend. Let me know if you need any help.
Edgar Loza thank you for asking! I actually was able to fix it myself last month!
Thanks for sharing..BUD....
Now go to Chevy or your trusted garage and tell them you want HVAC relearn. The reason that thing broke is because somewhere along the line the computer forgot where cold and hot stops where. The motor just keeps turning the door to it's physical stop and not it's programmed stop. It twits off the knob.
Great video!
Gotta do mine, common problem. Part needs a redeign.
I no longer turn the temperature sector to full hot, or full cold. I hope that will keep it from breaking in the future. Good luck.
Thank you Sir.
Nice instruction I got it..👍
You butcher! Watching you makes me want to cringe. Ha ha, I am just kidding. I am the first person to comment on your first video. FIRST! This is an excellent video. 5 star. You gave the pattern and the tool, and pointed out the problems along the way. You did not do it with an iphone and dark lighting like all the rest of the videos.
Thanks, I've learned a lot from RUclips, just thought I'd give a little back. I appreciate the your response, and I owe a lot of thanks to a friend who helped me edit this video. Thanks again, and maybe I'll come up with something else to make a video about.
Is anyone in Texas doing this?
Hey I need mine done
So you tell us the size T-50 torx for the seat then don't bother to say the sizes of anything else that was removed off camera...
SKIP! 👎
Two T-50 bolts. And the plug. That's all my Camaro has. The front just drops in the slots. Skipped nothing, that's all there is.