Best video yet. Cordwood challenge has always allowed the use of a saw for the backcut when felling, as the axe gives almost zero control over direction. That dead wood really sucks to cut. I've found the only axes that cut it well have super thin grinds or super thin geometry. One of the big reasons I like my thin rinaldi and don't like the stock grinds on gransfors, or at least think they are ill suited for camping. The wood you may have permission to cut or want to cut for immediate firewood is dead standing and the very convexed thick edges of gransfors don't cut it well. The fresh resinous pine they recommend them for on the website is not what 9/10 wood types you are going to cut. For the record even for fresh pine I think a flatter edge with more cheek on the geometry doesnt stick as much
Thanks, that means a lot coming from you. This one was especially fun to make. There’s so much to cover. I knew I’d never even come close to scratching the surface with only one tree. As for the saw, I stand corrected. I thought Stephen’s original challenge was axe-only, and you permitted the saw for the backcut. In any case it’s how I fall most of the trees I take down with an axe, because as you said it gives you more control. That said, I’ve been meaning to experiment with a squarish backcut with an axe to see if I could lift a tree with a make shift lever of some kind. Similar to the way you might use a pump jack. Ever try that?
Concerning the Gransfors, I actually really like it after I made a few mods. And believe me part of me wanted it to fail. I’m running a 18 degree Scandi grind right now with no secondary bevel, and I only have very very minimal damage to the edge. So I’ll probably stone the edge at a steeper angle and run it just like that. The main thing is the head hasn’t come loose. As for wild camping, the Silky Saw is King! When I still did some regular through-hiking, I didn’t even take an axe. Very few serious through hikers do. Just a small saw and knife. I’d baton kindling and then just use small rounds for fuel. The really light weight guys don’t even take that. They either use stick stoves or fuel cells of some kind. Me, I have to have a fire at night in the woods or I’m not camping.
@@KevinsDisobedience yeah yours seemed to be cutting much better than mine ever could in a stock condition. 18 degree scandi is pretty good going for the steel. What even is the point of camping without a fire? Seems like no fun to me!
The steel is definitely hard. It sucks to file. I actually took a break and came back to it later. That said, I prefer light axes. Any 3lb axe regardless of the grind will put preform the Gransfors. Seasoned through-hikers are a weird lot actually. Most of them are gearheads, always trying to cut ounces, always chasing the newest and best piece of equipment. They talk about it endless at campsites-that and how many miles they can hike it a day. I’ve been with a group of guys who walked right past a bear without even noticing because it’s head down, poles in the mud. (I think the walking poles are a little silly, but that’s a rant for another time). Needless to say, I tended to keep to myself unless there were single girls around lol, although some of those hippie chicks were a strange sort too. But yeah, many of them sat in the dark and cooked over gas stoves and ate food out of foil bags. I tried it one night and it was miserable.
The deep face cut is not a bad way to do it in general, unless you're going to need to place wedges. I primarily deal with Red (Norway) pines which are butt heavy. If I don't make a deep face cut they don't want to fall.
Yeah it works just fine. I usually error on the side of a larger face cut, but as long as it’s halfway through it’ll tip over assuming it’s not leaning hard back.
Definitely not for bucking. SkillCult’s original guidelines were no saws, period. But I’m pretty sure Ben allows the saw for the backcut and maybe even for felling in general. Basically the idea is to use the axe to process the tree, not so much to get it on the ground.
No, you are right. Also Ben said saws were always allowed for the backcut. I operated under the axe only principal the first two years, although I never took a camera with me.
Learn to use an axe left handed as well as when you are felling the cut will not be easily kept in a horizontal plane . I notice quite a few You tube axemen trying to keep the bottom half of the cut at 90 degrees . That is not the way with an axe. Yo do not cut at 90 degrees but bring the cut up , much like bucking. To get a good understanding watch a beaver.
You can do that, sure, as I did with the second tree I cut (not sure if you got that far), but there’s a major problem with that approach I’m going to do a video on at some point. It has to do with the hinge being cut unevenly. Most of us have been influenced by D. Cook’s book, and he suggests the 90 bottom cut. I teach that method, but it has its dangers too-chiefly it requires a higher stump, which is prone to glances.
@@KevinsDisobedience The cuts will meet the same i.e just above the face cut leaving a hinge .I have only learnt what i was shown by my grandfather who was a woodman in the New Forest U.K.
Always a satisfying feeling taking one down
Never gets old.
Nice video mr.
Thank you. Subscribe and keep watching. More on the way.
nicely done
Thank you
@@KevinsDisobedience No problem i did volunteer tree felling with just my axe an my wedges and then i did it with my chainsaw and my wedges
Good vid mate
Thanks Kurt.
Best video yet. Cordwood challenge has always allowed the use of a saw for the backcut when felling, as the axe gives almost zero control over direction. That dead wood really sucks to cut. I've found the only axes that cut it well have super thin grinds or super thin geometry. One of the big reasons I like my thin rinaldi and don't like the stock grinds on gransfors, or at least think they are ill suited for camping. The wood you may have permission to cut or want to cut for immediate firewood is dead standing and the very convexed thick edges of gransfors don't cut it well. The fresh resinous pine they recommend them for on the website is not what 9/10 wood types you are going to cut. For the record even for fresh pine I think a flatter edge with more cheek on the geometry doesnt stick as much
Thanks, that means a lot coming from you. This one was especially fun to make. There’s so much to cover. I knew I’d never even come close to scratching the surface with only one tree. As for the saw, I stand corrected. I thought Stephen’s original challenge was axe-only, and you permitted the saw for the backcut. In any case it’s how I fall most of the trees I take down with an axe, because as you said it gives you more control. That said, I’ve been meaning to experiment with a squarish backcut with an axe to see if I could lift a tree with a make shift lever of some kind. Similar to the way you might use a pump jack. Ever try that?
Concerning the Gransfors, I actually really like it after I made a few mods. And believe me part of me wanted it to fail. I’m running a 18 degree Scandi grind right now with no secondary bevel, and I only have very very minimal damage to the edge. So I’ll probably stone the edge at a steeper angle and run it just like that. The main thing is the head hasn’t come loose. As for wild camping, the Silky Saw is King! When I still did some regular through-hiking, I didn’t even take an axe. Very few serious through hikers do. Just a small saw and knife. I’d baton kindling and then just use small rounds for fuel. The really light weight guys don’t even take that. They either use stick stoves or fuel cells of some kind. Me, I have to have a fire at night in the woods or I’m not camping.
@@KevinsDisobedience never tried a jack with axe felling but using a long pole or lever really helps push the tree over if it has a slight back lean
@@KevinsDisobedience yeah yours seemed to be cutting much better than mine ever could in a stock condition. 18 degree scandi is pretty good going for the steel. What even is the point of camping without a fire? Seems like no fun to me!
The steel is definitely hard. It sucks to file. I actually took a break and came back to it later. That said, I prefer light axes. Any 3lb axe regardless of the grind will put preform the Gransfors.
Seasoned through-hikers are a weird lot actually. Most of them are gearheads, always trying to cut ounces, always chasing the newest and best piece of equipment. They talk about it endless at campsites-that and how many miles they can hike it a day. I’ve been with a group of guys who walked right past a bear without even noticing because it’s head down, poles in the mud. (I think the walking poles are a little silly, but that’s a rant for another time). Needless to say, I tended to keep to myself unless there were single girls around lol, although some of those hippie chicks were a strange sort too. But yeah, many of them sat in the dark and cooked over gas stoves and ate food out of foil bags. I tried it one night and it was miserable.
The deep face cut is not a bad way to do it in general, unless you're going to need to place wedges. I primarily deal with Red (Norway) pines which are butt heavy. If I don't make a deep face cut they don't want to fall.
Yeah it works just fine. I usually error on the side of a larger face cut, but as long as it’s halfway through it’ll tip over assuming it’s not leaning hard back.
Great advice I am learning a lot thanks - atb 👍🏽
Thanks man, but definitely be sure to check out some other people’s perspectives-SkillCult & Ben Scott especially-if you haven’t already.
For the Cordwood Challenge I think you are only allowed the saw in felling so you can wedge. I don't think it's okay in bucking.
Definitely not for bucking. SkillCult’s original guidelines were no saws, period. But I’m pretty sure Ben allows the saw for the backcut and maybe even for felling in general. Basically the idea is to use the axe to process the tree, not so much to get it on the ground.
@@KevinsDisobedience Oops, I was unaware of the revised criteria. Nevermind!
No, you are right. Also Ben said saws were always allowed for the backcut. I operated under the axe only principal the first two years, although I never took a camera with me.
Learn to use an axe left handed as well as when you are felling the cut will not be easily kept in a horizontal plane . I notice quite a few You tube axemen trying to keep the bottom half of the cut at 90 degrees . That is not the way with an axe. Yo do not cut at 90 degrees but bring the cut up , much like bucking. To get a good understanding watch a beaver.
You can do that, sure, as I did with the second tree I cut (not sure if you got that far), but there’s a major problem with that approach I’m going to do a video on at some point. It has to do with the hinge being cut unevenly. Most of us have been influenced by D. Cook’s book, and he suggests the 90 bottom cut. I teach that method, but it has its dangers too-chiefly it requires a higher stump, which is prone to glances.
@@KevinsDisobedience The cuts will meet the same i.e just above the face cut leaving a hinge .I have only learnt what i was shown by my grandfather who was a woodman in the New Forest U.K.
That’s cool. Nothing like learning from an old timer. But check out Cook’s book. It’s full of great information on axe use.