Flashlight Tail Spring Bypass (How To Video) On The Convoy C8
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2017
- This is a how to... step by step video to perform a tail spring bypass on most flashlights out there today. Also in this video is a comparison of both the open spring and closed spring (button top) tail caps and I bypassed both styles. Performing a tail spring bypass help with a better/faster current flow from the battery to the flashlight, driver and led emitter by shortening the path of travel by bypassing the coils in the springs resulting in better output of the light.
I hope this video was informative to you and if so please give it a like and don't forget to subscribe for more future reviews and diy flashlight project's. 
Наука
![Eminem - Houdini [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/22tVWwmTie8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks bro I was able to fix my pressure switch cable by watching this.
thanks to your video i was able to repair my terminal point .. appreciate alot man
My advice would be to always put the heat on the part with more mass first. Like the top of the spring, don't put your iron on the braid, put it on the spring, the solder will liquify and the flux inside the braid will draw the solder into the braid.
I find the braid is so quick to draw in solder, that I get the solder liquid and then just barely push the braid into it and remove the iron quickly. I tug on the braid, if it grabs I leave it alone. Going back to add extra solder can get you in trouble. It can get too stiff and the spring won't compress all he way.
Good job on the video.
Agree, but also, do not transfer solder by soldering tip to stuff you want to solder. If you have to, do it as fast as possible - the nice smoke you see, it is all the flux vaporing into the air and only thing left on iron tip is burnt solder, which will be almost imposible to stick to anything, even desoldering wick. I learn it the hard way, so keep this as advice. ;)
Very informative tip and tricks.....following more of your modding.....
I wonder about the spring. In normal use, passing current through that spring should alter the spring resistance. My guess is it would increase resistance.
The copper braid should make resistance more stable.
Since the copper braid is in 'parallel' with the spring, resistance should actually be lower.
How much brighter was the light and how much longer did the batteries last?
I can't see this will make any noticable difference but I will try it for the hell of it!
sparkyuiop if you are able to measure the output before and after you will see the difference it makes but it will not be high enough of a difference for the eye to see unless you have the same light to compare it to.
Is it possible to do this on a Bushnell red dot sight?
So which one is better 2mm wick or 21 awg wire (9A)
To remove and tighten the "thing" holding in the tail piece, use a pair of small, needle nose pliers. Place each of the needle nose tips in the 2 indents on the "thing". You will have much more control of the "thing", especially when you're replacing it and need to find just the right position to find the threads and avoid cross threading. It's also easier to screw in, after you get it started, if you control both sides, rather than controlling only one side with a screw driver.
I'm new to modding torches and wonder how much do you gain from this. I just opened my BLF A6 (same as Astrolux S1) and measured the resistance between spring and the outer copper ring, it's about 8.5-9ohm depending where I put the probe. Any idea how does this compare to other switches?
OhFishyFish personally i wonder about the gain but I would suggest to you to touch you meter leads together first, if possible zero the meter at this point. The best way to measure such low ohms and possibly even check how the mod improves current flow is to pass a known current through the spring/switch assembly and measure voltage drop across assembly. Then use ohms law to mathematically deduce the resistance, most likely a fraction of an ohm. You is be measuring the leads of your meter if you seeing upwards of 5-10 ohms.
Thanks for the vid.
Stacy Keen you're welcome!
If that tailcap spring is really gold coated, is this hack necessary? Gold is an excellent electrical conductor.
Think of it as using one wire or a pair of wires to carry current
my 3$ 18650 light broke today coz the plastic caming switch at the bottom got a tiny bit bent from me pushing the button at a weird angle.... not sure this will help me now but would of helped me get to this point in dissasembly darn.
Where do you find the parts to build flashlights? I would like to build a premium flashlight with premium parts i.e. most powerful drivers/ boards cree leds, flashlight bodies.
aliexpress and mtnelectronic have all stuff you need... build some light using sst40 Led, im sure you be amaze on how it performs..
Hey man tks for your nice video. I have the cheap one. Any suggestions on spring bypass?
MetalSir which host are you working on?
luxLumen GR hey! You replied to me very fast but I didn't get the notification from RUclips. I'm on a cheap imitation of a convoy c8. It's my first soldering attempt but I really want to do this thing myself. :) so where did you attached the wire at the top of the spring? To the spring top and then putting the "button" on top? Tks man
They all arrere cheap imitation Convoy C8 (they all come from China) you can use solder braid or 18ga wire, all that is happening is the current flow no longer runs down the spring to thru the switch...a spring is more or less a long piece of wire wound up...and it's spring steel so not all that great current carrying capacity..putting a low resistance path bypasses the current flow meaning more current can flow and makes your emitter run brighter
+Brian C that is correct!
Brian C did it. To be honest i can't see any difference.. maybe I did something wrong eheh
Bypassing the spring and increased voltage on bulb. Would that decrease bulb life or possibly cause it to burn out?
+Larry Olimb it will slightly decrease the bulb or led life but not by much at all. As far as blowing a bulb I'm not sure but I do know it will not blow an led.
Your driver will prevent that.
What is that device called that has the magnifying glass on it I need one of those. can you buy those or did you make that?
RROKNG1RRLL99 SueAnn I think it's called a third hand. Not expensive and easily bought online.
elmanitasdeplomo
Thank you! And I been rigging up little vice grips, tape, paper clips, ect., all this time, which were never stable like that thing!
@Whoop!
how much inprovement?
I have an c8 with an XP-L HI great throw too but mine has like a weird deadspot if i shine on something thats within 30 feet
+bram m is it like a donut effect?
yeh but like 1/3 of the donut is darker light something is blocking the light if i unscrew the lens a little then its gone but when i fully screw it down it comes back like the reflector doesnt sit quite right
bram m I heard a say on a C cell maglight led conversion to install new bulb & then push sideways 10 degrees & sure enough it solved the donut problem,
1:09 - "Cheap knockoff of an Ultrafire"
Well Ultrafire is a cheap knockoff, so what you have there is a cheap knockoff of a cheap knockoff lol
🤣 Very True 😂
Using the bypass can increase the amperage, but not the voltage.
Increasing amperage will increase brightness and performance
Now he has ended up with a blob of solder contacting the battery instead of the gold plating on the spring. The overall resistance has probably increased, defeating the intention of the mod.
Can this destroy the flashlight?
Lynge Randen Børding No it will not.
Lynge Randen Børding No it will not.
When you have a Flashlight with a Luminus SSt40 and a good DD Driver and a Sony VTC6 this mod can destroy the LED.
@@schnorrespit no, i run my sst40 dedome in my c8 with vtc6 and samsung 30q, it still not destroy yet after a years of using... i always run it on maximum more than 10minutes until the flashlight get terrible hot and cant hold it in hand, but it still survive... the key is a good thermal paste and good cooper led mcpcb..
@@harisyoung4110 how about the NCR18650B? will this also destroy the light? I am using S2+ SST40 which is already bypassed when i got it.
I actually do want a "cheap" tailcap for my Convoy S2+, because the spring either destroys batteries or gets the Convoy to not function properly.
All these people playing with single point contact for locking collars.
Why don't they just do like I.
Small Needle nose Pliers. File tips down to suit.
You get a level pressure both side of rings to screw down\up,.
EVERY time???.
Mack Carson since this video I have done that and also retaining clip pliers.
the bigger the GLob the better the job NOT
actually the're no difference at all my god flashholics people so sassy
depends on driver you use.. if you do it on stock convoy 7135 chip type driver sure it will make no difference.. if you do it on direct fet driver the one that astrolux use, than it will make a bit difference... im done it on my astrolux c8 and blf q8 and gain about 150 Lux more after do it on q8 measure with ceiling bounce style....
@@harisyoung4110 and what about astrolux eco3,can ı see big difference ,eco3 has double springs.What can u say?
@@TheSuvari Go to budgetlightforum.com and search for a spring bypass vs double spring thread.. there will be more scientific test present there that show the resistance measurement result between those two.. sure will be more difference with ec03 bypass but at only few second before the temp control kick down the brightness.. i have a sp36 narsil that can set to turn off the temp control and with all the 3 spring bypass, in just 2minutes of turbo it build so much heat till i cant hold it with bare hands.. but the most benefit i get is when the batteries is not fully charge it still give the best performance due to lower resistance.. and sp36 also come with double spring at all 3pcs batteries slot.