We we’re aware that the distributor vacuum advance was in the incorrect location and used an incorrect type of wire. This video’s purpose was to “simply” explain where to run a wire to the distributor and how to connect it. Not how to completely install one. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! I've been putting in a new 22 circuit wiring harness and I really needed that information before I could keep going on my wiring. You did good!! It's Hard to find that particular information anywhere else!
Thank you very much for your video. You were a big help. Now I have my big block Chevy running great in my 47 cabover truck with the engine in the rear
Hook the tach the green wire to your tack to the HEI distributor text I'd read goes to ignition black is ground that has to go to the frame and that's pretty much it
So I'm about to hook up an hei distributor to my car. Due to the year of my car I do not have an ignition terminal. Can i just wire it to the bat terminal or the accessory terminal? I have been going back and forth on forums and they say do not wire it to a fused terminal. I just don't know what to do.
Basically all you have to do is wire the distributor to something on the fuse panel or whatever power source location on your car to something that has power when the key is on. But also turns off when the key is off. If you don’t have anything like that you can wire in a switch yourself to control the distributor.
Some accessory terminals cut power when the key moves to the cranking position. You can check that with a multimeter or test light. If I’m not mistaken most cars have the batt terminal is always on regardless of the key position even in the off position.
Yes it should work as long as you make sure it still has power when the key goes in the cranking position. Mine didn’t blow any fuses when I did it. If it does no biggie that’s what they are there for. If it blows one then you’ll know you can’t put it there.
Excellent! My 71 C10 left me stranded few days ago. Short story: resistor wire went dead on me (cause still unknown). Ran a 12g wire from fusebox to dist..."was" concerned about over voltage...until now! Thank you!
Thank you for the simple answer Sir. Few have a simple approach to everything mechanical. Your video helped me far more than ALL THE NINKUMPOOPS who puff their chests out. Hail Victory!
Hey could you tell me we're the wires from starter go to through the harness , I turn key and get no ignition signal the problem is between key to starter , thanx in advance
There is a ignition switch at the bottom of the steering columon on the top side of it. Kinda hard to see but there should be a wire harnes that plugs into it check that.
@@ATDGarage very well and good sir. And not a horrible choice. As an electrician i can tell you the wire has about 2 yrs life in that situation. Check for cracking by bending from time to time. Once that happens the insulation will start to crumble off and will need to be replaced. Purists might say never but i understand you run what runs. Good job and it is educational.
I don't know. Wrong type of wire, vacuum connection in wrong position, should check the actual voltage at fuse panel, open intake manifold, and touched electrical components in distributor with bare hands. I think you should reshoot video.
I actually just learned about this a few weeks ago thought it was pretty interesting. That explains why it wouldn’t work. I tried using them back when this video was made but that explains why I was getting inconsistent results
We we’re aware that the distributor vacuum advance was in the incorrect location and used an incorrect type of wire. This video’s purpose was to “simply” explain where to run a wire to the distributor and how to connect it. Not how to completely install one. Thanks for watching!
So you don't need to connect the tach?
I had to stop when your watch started talking to you. Great video, and a big thumbs up for the laugh.
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. Definitely caught me off guard lol
Thanks! I've been putting in a new 22 circuit wiring harness and I really needed that information before I could keep going on my wiring. You did good!! It's Hard to find that particular information anywhere else!
I like how easy it was, one wire
Thank you very much for your video. You were a big help. Now I have my big block Chevy running great in my 47 cabover truck with the engine in the rear
Glad we could help. 😉
Awesome vid man! I was definitely overthinking it haha. My turd gen Camaros gunna hit the road real soon now!
thanks for the video helps out alot but i notis distributor is out 180 degrees vac avance should be on the passenger side of the car
I would be nervous with nothing over the open intake manifold. Thanks for the video!!!!
Mongo work on open intake hoping to drop gift in cave
This has to be the dumbest fucking thing ever typed into a youtube comment section
Hook the tach the green wire to your tack to the HEI distributor text I'd read goes to ignition black is ground that has to go to the frame and that's pretty much it
Crazy part of the first half of video is your year model car has factory ign feed on the harness lol
Great video thanks
Do distributors need a ground wire?
Nope they don’t.
So I'm about to hook up an hei distributor to my car. Due to the year of my car I do not have an ignition terminal. Can i just wire it to the bat terminal or the accessory terminal? I have been going back and forth on forums and they say do not wire it to a fused terminal. I just don't know what to do.
Does the battery terminal always have power?
Basically all you have to do is wire the distributor to something on the fuse panel or whatever power source location on your car to something that has power when the key is on. But also turns off when the key is off. If you don’t have anything like that you can wire in a switch yourself to control the distributor.
Some accessory terminals cut power when the key moves to the cranking position. You can check that with a multimeter or test light. If I’m not mistaken most cars have the batt terminal is always on regardless of the key position even in the off position.
@@ATDGarage so then wiring the hei to the accessory should work I'm just afraid that it'll blow the fuses
Yes it should work as long as you make sure it still has power when the key goes in the cranking position. Mine didn’t blow any fuses when I did it. If it does no biggie that’s what they are there for. If it blows one then you’ll know you can’t put it there.
Doesn't the distributor need a resistor wire for it not to eventually burn up from too much voltage?
Only points style ignitions require some kind of resistance, HEI requires constant 12v
Excellent!
My 71 C10 left me stranded few days ago. Short story: resistor wire went dead on me (cause still unknown). Ran a 12g wire from fusebox to dist..."was" concerned about over voltage...until now!
Thank you!
Can you use a 14g wire or is it strictly 12g wire only
14g should be fine but 12g is ideal
@ATDGarage ok that's good enough for me I'm just using what I have laying around
Why is mine not turning off by the ignition
Thank you , it helped
Glad to hear!
Thank you for the simple answer Sir. Few have a simple approach to everything mechanical. Your video helped me far more than ALL THE NINKUMPOOPS who puff their chests out. Hail Victory!
I was waiting for that open intake manifold to swallow one of your tools, or anything else that might fall into it?😀
hopefully that never happen to us lol. Thanks for watching!
Hey could you tell me we're the wires from starter go to through the harness , I turn key and get no ignition signal the problem is between key to starter , thanx in advance
There is a ignition switch at the bottom of the steering columon on the top side of it. Kinda hard to see but there should be a wire harnes that plugs into it check that.
@@ATDGarage will do , thanks alot
Is that distributor 180 out?
yep and fuel filter is backwards
why are you using thhn 12awg house wire on a car?
Cuz it’s what I got. And she’s workin mint
@@ATDGarage very well and good sir. And not a horrible choice. As an electrician i can tell you the wire has about 2 yrs life in that situation. Check for cracking by bending from time to time. Once that happens the insulation will start to crumble off and will need to be replaced. Purists might say never but i understand you run what runs. Good job and it is educational.
Thanks for the info as well, didn’t know that.
Glad you liked the video.
Looks like 12ga electrical wire to me.
Vacuum advance module should be pointing kinda at the passenger side headlight......that one points kinda master cylinder
Yep, vacuum canister is supposed to point towards passanger side.
I agree it definitely should be pointing towards the passenger side headlight
I'm about 3 years late but I'm pretty sure your fuel filter is backwards
Thanks
Talk about everything else
I don't know. Wrong type of wire, vacuum connection in wrong position, should check the actual voltage at fuse panel, open intake manifold, and touched electrical components in distributor with bare hands. I think you should reshoot video.
Why not just use the old ignition wire that connected to the old coil ?
they are resistance wires and dont provide a clean 12 volts. you can hook to the regulator.
I actually just learned about this a few weeks ago thought it was pretty interesting. That explains why it wouldn’t work. I tried using them back when this video was made but that explains why I was getting inconsistent results
@@ATDGarage also can fry the coil iirc. there is a power source that feeds the regulator though that is 12 volt you can use on the firewall.