OK, so I just did this job yesterday on my son's 2017 Forester and it bordered on nightmarish. If you live anywhere in the rust belt, be prepared and be sure that you have the equipment to tackle this job. With the wheel, caliper/bracket & rotor off (easy) and the 4 hub retaining bolts loose from back of the knuckle, hub wouldn't budge. Tried a slide hammer over the studs...no dice; tried hammering the flange with a 5lb copper sledge...no dice. Finally used a long barrel air chisel with a blunt punch on the loosened hub bolts from in back of the spindle. Dialed up to 140 lbs of air pressure it took 10 minutes of air hammering to push the hub out, completely destroying the bolt heads. Now comes the fun part, removing the hub from the backing plate. Held it on my lap and repeatedly struck the hub, trying to drive it from the backing plate...no dice. Air chisel with punch...no dice. Had to disassemble the parking brake and support the backing plate between two large logs stood on end and drove out the hub with the 5lb copper sledge, bending the bejesus out of the backing plates in the process. Reassembly is a breeze! So, although they are about $100 each from the stealer, I'd strongly recommend buying new backing plates (dust shields in Subaru vernacular) before you start. I was astonished that a 5 year old vehicle had so much rust around these hubs, but the bearing area where they mount is large. This job was a bear!
Thanks for the heads-up. I'm in the rust belt and will have to consider if I want to attempt this or not. I certainly don't have an air chisel. Thanks again.
Hey, I just did mine with 104K miles. I would suggest spraying freeall once your ready to remove the hub after the bolts are out. I used a light hammer with a flathead and slowly changed from right to left side until it was able to be pulled out. Driver side took 2.5 hours total. After I determined the best course of action. 1 hour. I was able to keep my old parts. I am also in WNC so I'm Sure salt and snow doesn't help others situation.
@@MaxLewandowski-zx5wr I’m in Maryland which is below the salt belt and I had to replace the backing plate because it was between the a place to press. Not too bad once you realize your out another $80
@@MaxLewandowski-zx5wr 100% accurate. Here in Pennsylvania, the road salt (now brine and it's much worse) makes separating the backing plates from the hub very difficult. It's not as bad here as Michigan or Chicago for example, but rust binds these buggers tight! Next time, I'd opt to just spend the extra money and replace the backing plates also cuz I bent the bejesus ought of them and took a bunch of time to straighten them back out.
Wow! This video unrealistically made me believe this was a cake job. Rear right bearing went out at 70K miles in my 2017 XT. Using the same puller used in the video only separated the hub from the rest of the bearing assembly. Then came 8 solid hours of 8lb sledge hammer, air hammering and chiseling before needing to remove knuckle assembly and eventually press out remaining cartridge pieces from behind. Then, destroyed backing plate when trying to separate it from seized casting. 2nd trip to the parts dept was for a new backing plate. Then, a 3rd trip was necessary to replace the cracked ABS speed sensor. Don't know why removing the sensor isn't step #1. Inadvertently damaging that sensor cost almost as much as the bearing.
@@dustinkumar8289 I was able to do both rear wheel bearings on a 2016 forester with a good amount of rust in 35 minutes. All you need is a good hammer or if you really wanna get spicy an air hammer.
Thank you for the video. I was able to replace the entire hub assembly just like you showed and it only tok me 90min not too shabby for never have done it before. The only hard part was torquing the 4 backing plat bolts to 48lbs. Now my car sounds smooth again.
This video helped me tremendously! Thank you!! My dealership quoted me $680 to replace one wheel bearing. I said no, started researching, and came across this video (and others). I bought the wheel bearing for a little over $100, and even though it took me about 3 hours (I went slowly, and had to go get some supplies), it was done well and it was fixed! My next one should take about 30-45 minutes at most (but I don't have much rust at all on my hub assemblies). If anyone is doing this at home without an air wrench, I HIGHLY recommend two helper tools - a crowbar to brace across the bearing nuts when you're removing the axle nut, and a "cheater bar" - a steel pipe to slide over the socket wrench/breaker bar handle. Makes the job super easy. And I will echo others' sentiments - this is the last Subaru I will ever own. I've owned Toyotas and Mazdas all my life, and never had a wheel bearing go out, or any other of the quirky CVT issues this car has. It drives like a delivery truck, and has something new wrong with it every 20K miles. A 2014 car with under 100K miles shouldn't have so many problems.
I use a piece of wood instead of a crowbar in order to not damage any threads. And I think I'm on the other side of Subaru karma, my 6 year old 80k mile vehicle has had 0 problems outside of recall stuff
My 2014 with 140k has been wonderful. Yes, some wheel bearings have gone bad, but they do in all cars at high mileage. The CVT isn't my favorite, but it gets great gas mileage.
I have to disagree, I own 2017 Forester and the first Suburu ever. So far 158000 miles and besides brake pads, oil, filters and other minors, I only replaced the serpentine belt becuse of milage, but still in perfect condition. Absolutely love 4 WD and the tracking in winter conditions. Perhaps I'm lucky??😮😊
I really appreciate all of these comments about what went wrong. My dad and I tackled this job together and were able to do it without the puller assembly. Getting the bearing out of the back pad was difficult- but we used 2 old rotors, a few blocks of wood, a little bit of penetrating spray, and broke it loose. No damage done to the speed censor- thank you again for the warning on that. Overall the job took us less than an hour because we knew what to expect going in. I think the best part about this is knowing that I can watch these videos myself and actually know what I’m doing. It’s doable! Just gotta be prepared and that can be the hardest part. Thank you everyone for the insight!
Thanks for the video! I've had one wheel bearing go bad at 43,000mi and another at 58,000. Now my forester is out of warranty, and needs another one at 70,000. I will not be buying another Subaru after this one. Thanks again for the instructions.
Every car has its weaknesses. Still better than many American brands. Thanks for stopping by and I’m glad you found it helpful. Have an awesome weekend. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🔧🔧🔧🔧
My 2017 Forester just had a rear wheel bearing go bad at 41K miles. Not really happy with Subaru at this point, between this and the abomination nav/infotainment system which is a horrible failure and has never been updated, and a dozen other irritating little problems, I can’t say I’d buy another Subaru again.
@@w3vjp568 Your next one will go out soon, as mine just went out at around 45k, now I'm near 53k and I'm hearing the honing sound around 40ish mph which I'm getting more a tuned with as time goes on. Why Subaru puts a different wheel bearing in the rear than the front is beyond me. Luckily I'm certified so I stll have 10 months of powertrain, but my guess is a little over 100k I'll have a repeat of this. Again to me if that is my only issue I'll be lucky. In my last vehicle the tranny died at 68k that was hard to stomach after buying the vehicle at 43k. I'll see where this goes.
My first rear bearing went out at 120k. My second just went out at 190k. My gosh that thing is a pain. Wanted to get it myself, but ended up making an appointment back to the garage. You guys make it look so easy in the videos. Having the right tools helps, youtube videos helps. But your mechanics jobs will be safe as not everyone can be a mechanic, you guys don’t get paid enough!!. We tried everything. Including a slide hammer. Lol thanks for sharing!.
Potter County Diggers Lol. Thanks for the comment. That is one of the reason I have a huge slide hammer. I struggled too long with a normal slide hammer and now I don’t have to work as hard.
Helpful. Will be doing this on our 2016 with 106k. Right rear is making noise. Odd, because it’s predecessor, our 2004, has never had a bearing issue and is at 300k and going strong!!
one item that is worth mentioning is that if you are doing this in your garage on a jackstand, disengage the parking break, as you won't be able to pull the rotor with the binders on. At least on the passenger side. One tool that worked for me for breaking the bearing is a pickle fork. did minimal damage to surfaces and while it was work, an hours worth of pounding freed it up.
PRO TIP - If the hub is stuck and being stubborn you can use a cold chisel to wedge in between the knuckle and the back plate. Works it out nicely. If you can get just a little bit of a gap first it works even better. Just be careful.
Rust belt, that's exactly how I got it off. 3/8" wedge cold chisel just pounded it in between and got a small gap started. Worked around and used bigger and bigger chisels. Then, banged on the hub with a sledge until it finally came off. Took about 4 hours to figure it out. I have one more to do and hopefully I can do it quicker.
I always always clean rust where the bearing goes in, carefully not touching the abs sensor. Then apply some copper grease on the bearing, cv axle and 4 nuts that hold it in place. It saves you so much trouble in the future.
I also just remove the ABS sensor, and apply antiseize to the sensor screw also. My '10 Impreza bearings were so bad I had to pull the knuckles and press the hub assemblies out with my shop press. If you leave the struts attached, you can get away without an alignment, but you will have to deal with more mass when wrangling things around. I cleaned up and painted the knuckles and painted the new bearings, and antiseized everything. I had to replace the rear axle seal last weekend, and it all came apart in under 15 minutes this time around. I didn't need wheel bearings until after 190,000 miles. So things were really rusted up. Subaru makes the tolerances a bit too snug, given they do nothing to prevent rust around the hub assemblies. The wheel bearings on my '94 Sundance came out with no trouble at 125,000, but those have a lot more slop.
Our 2016 Subaru Forester has rear bearing/hub growl, or so I thought. Listening to the whirring on your video, now I'm certain. 71,000 miles. R/R Hub assy. Going to use OEM Parts. Thank You for your video, you just made my day a little easier!
Replacing mine now. Thanks for listing tq spec for axle nut and hub mtg bolts! Mine made it to 135000 miles.2017 West Coast Forester . 2.5i FJB Edition
This guy did it in four minutes; between ordering parts (including the hub blaster tool) and whacking with a sledgehammer after spraying with penetrating oil it took me a week.
That’s horrible I am on 4 hrs and the hub is separated on my 17 Outback when I used the slide hammer. Now I have to take off the rest😢. Not a fun task I am looking for that miracle tool.
One wheel bearing of my 18 Forester was bad and was in the 5year/60k warranty. So the dealer has replaced it for free. Now another one has turned bad and is out of warranty. I would DIY. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Our Forester'17 is making noise at highway speed. Only 85K kms (~52K miles) on the Odo... Dealer is saying to replace BOTH bearings, at C$815+13% tax, for EACH 😱! I have to shop around.. Wish I could do all this work myself and save significant dough 😥
Did you have any luck replacing yiur rear Subies bearing hub? I need to do mine on my 2010 outback but think ill just take it to a mechanic as the rusted in part is kinda making not want to do it.
This car has obviously never seen salt. I have done 3 of these in NY, minimum of 4 hours of heat, PB, pound, repeat one of them took 10 hours. Always use some type of never seize on everything when you put it back together.
2014 forester, replaced one rear at 45k and now the other one at 53k. If you look up OEM part, notice it has been "upgraded/superceded" because of this being a known issue. After 2 minor recalls, 2 bearings, complete AC replacement (another known issue with subaru service number)...I'm very disappointed after 53k. Used to have a 2005 Honda accord with 230k with an oxygen sensor being the only issue I had.
Not normal to come out that easy! On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping. Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
I have a 2014 just had my wheel bearing changed started making noise at 47000 miles got it replaced at 51000. This guy got a free wheel bearing replacement obviously as he is under 60k
I tried this on my 2017 impreza and the existing barring assembly separated.. the piece that slides over the drive shaft came out but the other piece still remains.. is there any trick to unfu*k myself here..?
Known issue on these. My 16’ has had both rear bearings replaced and I’m doing it a second time this weekend, only at 113,000 miles. Autozone bearings are junk, seeing how the “upgraded” moog ones work this time, and see how many miles I get. Think it’s an under design issue from Subaru.
@@brackishadventures2577 seems like consensus here is that the Subaru OEM are the junk ones that fall apart after 50,000 miles to begin with. Why would you replace him with the same crap?
I just had both wheel bearing replaced on my 2017 Forester with 103000km on the odo. Three days after replacement, the drive shaft dislocated whilst driving the car. What would have caused this? and it may seem obvious, but is this due to poor workmanship?
The driveshaft shouldn’t have been touched during the wheel bearing replacement so it may have been a coincidence. Unless the shaft was removed to inspect the carrier bearing for noise.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks for the reply. On inspecting the damaged part at the dealership it appears that the end tip section of the spline on the shaft - where it goes into the wheel hub, sheared clean off - just the tip section from where the circlip goes over the shaft - it is as if this end section was bearing all the torque from the drive?
Hey man. Thanks for the video. I had my rear bearing replaced and now I have ABS and traction control lights on my dash on. Is that related? Did they mess something up?
It is possible. The wheel speed sensor is mounted right behind the wheel bearing and some of these sensors read a magnet in the wheel bearing and some rear a toothed wheel on the axle.
Is it the same between the AWD and 2wd? I also noticed you used a puller. I started to use a puller too but I was afraid I would damage the axle with all the force needed to pull the hub out
First Off! This Forester He Is Working On Has 50k Miles So Subaru Should Own This Defect Regardless Of Miles! I Have Astro Vans That Go 500k Miles Never Needing Wheel Bearing/Hubs! Second: This Forester Has Never Seen Salt Or New England Weather! So After Doing Both Sides Of My 2014 XT Once Its Rusted In The Wheel Nut Puller Only Rips The Bearings Out Leaving You With The Seized Housing That Is Rusted! So: All You Need is A Tiny Chisel In The Right Spot and A Big Machinist Hammer Hammer! It Took Me 4 Days Watching RUclips Videos And Rust Inhibitor Letting It Soak That Did Nothing For Days! Now From Doing It The Hard Way To 5 Hours Doing It The EZ Way! Yes I Have Impact Guns and The 4 Bolts Might Need Extra Impact But If The Bolt Heads Shear Off And They Didn't, No Problem The Hub Will Come Out And The New One Doesn't Come With New Ones But At $900 Plus Dollars A Few Bolts Won't Ever Cost anywhere Near The Cost To Have Subaru Do It! Here We Have A Subaru With 50K Miles! Mine Has 120 Thousand Miles and All Replaced But One! Why Are We Doing This To A 40 Thousand Dollar Car? Well They Gave You A Harman Kardin Stereo System and A Back Up Camera. Put The Camera Under The Car So We Can Watch The Break lines Rust Out Because Stopping Was Always A Great Feature! Amazon Sells This Same Part For $157.00 Genuine Subaru Parts On Line/$300 Dealer Discount And Just A Little Chisel and Hammer Like Shawshank Redemption And A Metric 33mm Socket and Torque Is Very Important! Don't Over Tighten The Wheel Nut Just The 4 Hub Nuts. Anti-Seize Everything Because If You Keep It You Will Be Doing It Again Like Oil Changes And Are The New Standard Of How Long They Feel You Should Be Enjoying Your 40 Thousand Dollars So Renting Your Hubs Makes Money! It's a Pretty Massive Unit But Must Have Just Enough Engineered Grease To Go Over Your Warrantee Period! The Chisel By The Way Goes Behind The Rotor Shield Between The Housing and What Ever They Call It! Mother nature Adds An Entirely Different Procedure! She Seems To Like a Little Chisel :O) I Was Thinking Of UP-Grading To A HONDA PASSPORT WHITE/BLACK Addition But All Raw Steel! So My Question Would Be: Why Are We Working For Our Cars When They Should Work For Us With 50K Miles? That Cost This Money? I'm So Happy With My 1995 Astro Van At 500K Miles Never Needing Wheel Bearings Or Really Anything If Undercoated Before Rusting Out. Can We Interest You In Our Phone Apps. No Thank You I Have Been Screwed Enough Thank You :O)
2016 Forester and it sounds like I have a single engine airplane motor attached to the read of my car. Is it common for wheel bearings going out on these cars?
These look like an assembly with the bearing already pressed in. I replaced wheel bearings on some older vehicles I owned and there was a big cast knuckle thing you had to press the bearing in and out of, or pay some astronomical amount for a new knuckle with the bearing pressed in already.
The CV axle was free from the hub. If you live in a rusty area, you may need to use a different style polar to push the axle out of the hub first. Some vehicles require the use of penetrating oils and or heat to get the axle to come free from the hub. This was a very low mileage vehicle in a part of the country that gets minimal rest made the job look easier than most vehicles that come in the door.
if i jack my car up by all fours and put it in d would both backs spin so i can listen for that noise? i think it's my right as i can hear something when i spin it by hand. from inside the car it sounds like a single engine airplane cruising by at an air show starting at 25 mph and gets louder and faster from there up.
Yes, just be cautious of what’s in front of you, behind you and under the car because the movement of the wheels may cause a shift in weight and shake the car off the jack stands. I have done it many times with jack stands without a problem.
I saw another commenter on a different bearing replacement video said he had to weld a piece of metal to it and quenched it so that it shrank really fast which broke it loose.
I've been trying a hub buster tool with no luck. It's almost completely pulled out the hub from the race/housing attached to the knuckle. Trying an air hammer on the flange bolts from behind next but if that doesn't work I'll remove the entire knuckle and have a shop press it out.
If you have the suspension hanging like I do in the video the axle will have a slight angle on it but shouldn’t be in a bind unless the vehicle is lifted.
This video was done in a totally new car ,this removal procese never happen so easy ,this Subaru get rusted and the bearing most of the time gets almost welded to the spindle and it take a lot of effort to remove ,most of the car you will have to remove a lot of suspensions components to remove the 4 bolts that hold the knuckle ,not in the subaru but ,(this cars are very mechanic friendly) but when they get rust jajajaja they rust really bad
I haven’t done an Impreza recently but it should be the same. The older Subaru’s used a press in bearing but I believe all the newer ones use a bolt in hub assembly.
I like my 09 legacy but I don't think I'll own another subaru again. I think they really missed the mark with the ascent being a turbocharged / cvt. this is crazy. Next you'll be doing a headgasket for them at 59k.
2018 Forester with 22,300 miles. Pretty sure I have a bad wheel bearing on the driver side rear. That and the weird bucking the thing does all the to 70 MPH and I think it'll be my first and last Subaru.
Since it's all wheel drive and the wheels are not under load it will spin them up when I run the car in gear. I just accelerate smoothly to prevent the viscous coupler from heating up or having the traction control kick in.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks. The howling humming sound in my car comes on and off.. does this mean it’s it’s still in the early stages of failure? I’ve only got 50k kms on it. Hate to go to the dealer hoping it’s warranty then they’ll charge me for diagnostics saying they can’t replicate the noise I’m saying.
Again Look At The Hub Where It Mounts To The What (They) Call A Knuckle I Call A Vital Thing That Holds The Wheel On The Vehicle! The (4) Bolts Are At The Back Behind The Breaks, They For The Most Part Come Right Out With Impact Wrench But The Hub? Not So Much! The Flange Of The Hub Has Rotted Inside The Knuckle, Once You See it You Will Understand! You Can Use Slide Hammers That Will Separate The Bearings From The Hub That Is Fused And Rotted To The Control Arms That Hold The Hub! On The Right Side Of The Hub Where It Mounts After Removing The Bolts (4) From The Back Side Look At The Flange! On The Upper Right Side Use A Half Inch Chisel From The Top And Hammer That Puppy In! Once You See A Gap Between The Flange It's Out In A Few Minutes! A 900 Dollar Secret! Each And The Parts Cast 150 OEM Amazon But 327.00 Dealer Make Sure To Remove The Anti- Lock Wheel Sensor. You Might Get ABS Codes Otherwise! I Went From Four Days To 4 Hours! 900- 150 Should Be A Recall But Engineered To Fail After Extended Warrantees. 500K Miles I Only Need A Wheel Bearing On A 1991 Nova That Cost 20 Bucks And A Few Hours Replacing The Bearing And Race, Setting The Bearing And Grease, Now It's A Sealed Hub No Fittings With Just Enough Grease To Last for 70k Miles! And They Thought We Are Stupid? Only Our Dealerships Have The Tools And Monkeys That Can Do This Job But RUclips Is A Tool They Don't Have\, Not A Job For Local Mechanics! They Use Slide Hammers And The Damage They Do You Pay As They Learn. A 1/2 Inch Chisel And Machinist Hammer. But You Do Need Impacted If In The Salt Belt If You Have 125 Thousand Miles, Our XT Has All New! Everything So Buckle For Electric Cars With Electric Bills Like We Should Pay For The Convenience Of Screw Guns To Make Money And Pay Tax.
It would be a good idea but is not always required. I make sure the car drives straight and doesn't pull after the repair. If the car has higher miles or hasn't had an alignment in a while it would be a good idea to get one done. Make sure the shop is capable of performing a 4 wheel alignment.
At the customers request. The dealership is over an hour away and the customer didn’t want to deal with it. We often call the dealerships on low mileage vehicles to verify if the repair is covered under warranty and then inform the customer. Most thank us and take it in for the free repair but some choose to have us perform the work.
This video is invalid I BOUGHT THE SAME POS BEARING PULLER that bearing came out way TO EASY In this video had to use a 12 ton press in order to get the bearing out almost broke the press. Used about a half of a tank of mapp gas the bearing broke free sending parts across my garage while bending my harbor freight press had about 10 tons of force applied and it wouldn’t move don’t go off this video at all trust me I’m saving your life.
Its their supplier called NTN they just slap their own part# on it., mine went out at 30k at the front then at 90k. subaru is using a cheap supplier for their bearings. great video, on another note i noticed subaru use that cheap ass drum brakes on the forester. UGH!
Gary Anderson it seems like more and more manufacturers are going for cheap instead of good. If all the aftermarket manufacturers have to do is meet the OE spec their stuff isn’t much better. Thank you for the OE brand of Subaru wheel bearing.
@@Hallowsaw I went moog on my impreza- going to do the wife's forester with moog in a few weeks- 60k on the first set, 30k on the second set - unbelievable
Subaru! It's What People Love About Subaru! The 2.5 Oil Sucking Design! The 2.0 XT It's What Makes A Subaru, The Love? Engineer Your Cars With Engines That Don't Drink Oil On The 2.5, Selling These Engines Is In My Opinion Fraud With Extended Bumper To Bumper That A Non Warranted Part Damaged The Parts And Located Between The Front And Rear bumper! Your Not Covered For Anything
I guess I've got lucky, 2017 with 158000 and right rear bearing just started making some noise so I want to fix it before winter. Love the 4 wheel drive. Love to buy a new one but the price went up $10,000, can't afford 😢😢😢
All The Wheel Bearings Are Now Breaking Down From 2012 to 2015 On Foresters The Top Selling Loved Vehicle! HUBS $900 At The Dealer Each! No It's No Cake Walk! Once You Do One Then It's 2.5 Hours Even In New England. Sledge Hammers, Slide Hammers, Etc. Why Is This Happening To People When We Owned Vehicles That Never Need These At 400K Miles? MONEY! 900 Each Dealer. $155 Do It Yourself But You Need Tools That People Don't Have. Using A Slide Hammer On A Frozen Hub Will Only Pull The Bearings From The Hub And Nothing To Pull On After That! Once You Remove The Wheel Sensor! Look At The Top Right Of The Flange That Mounts The Hub To The Knuckle! Remove The 4 Bolts Behind The Hub And One Or Two Might Require An Impact Wrench And Rust Inhibitor? Look At The Flange On The New Bearing And How It Mounts To The Knuckle! On The Top Right There Is An Area (Flat) Take A 1/2 Inch Chisel And A Machinist Hammer And Hammer The Chisel In That One Spot And Without Rust Remover Causing No Damage Repeatedly Hammer The Chisel In That Spot! Anywhere Else On The Flange The Chisel Has Bolts In The Way Preventing It From Being Hammered Directly To Separate The Hub. As Far As Subaru Technicians? They Provide Video's Of How EZ It Is! In Florida Maybe? Read Below, Some Victim Needed To Replace His At 70k Miles! Engendered To Fail, They Want Your Love Of Subaru To Pay Them On Repair After The Extended Warrantee Has Expired! I Have 1995 Vehicles With 400K Miles That Never Need These Repairs! Hold On Contact Engineering! Everything Has A Best If Used Date! Ya! Your Fifty Thousand On Car Payments Was Nice But We Need To Make More Money. Why Are These Products Working So Long? No Money In That! Can't We Adjust The Amount Of Grease That Goes 100K And Eliminate Grease Fitting So They Can't Maintain Our Products? That Is Want Makes Subaru A Subaru! The Love Of Money And Payments. Honda Is The Same! Toyota And VVTI All Garbage..
I was just think it was weird at 50k. In my area they normally last 100k. Your absolutely correct, Subaru has had bearing issues for a long time. Must cost too much to engineer and produce a longer lasting bearing and cost is a big factor in new cars.
I went to 180k with my Saturn not a single wheel bearing issue on it and sold it to someone with working wheel bearings. I did not baby it took it on many road trips even one night when I was tired on a road trip I didn't see the speed bump warning and hit it at 45 of course sending me airborne. Subaru must have a bad wheel bearing supplier.
THE FIRST QUESTION! Why are We Replacing A Wheel Hub On A 50k Mile Subaru? This Is Not Mentioned In Commercials Of What Makes A Subaru A Subaru And The Love! Buy Old Pre-Engendering Failures! Seal The Oil Fills And No Grease Fittings Because People Are Maintaining Our Products And We Can't Allow That! If Your In The Salt Belt This Professional Video Is Not Useful And Will Cost 2 Grand In Damages. Looks Easy Right? If You Want Someone To Do It For Less Than 1,000 Under The $900 Estimated Expense Reports! Your Bill For One Hub Is 1,000 Dollars On XT A 38 Thousand Dollar Vehicle! Subaru Stands Behind All Claims.
So In 2017 They Re-Engineered The 2014 XT Wheel Hubs To Last 50K miles Renting Parts That Cost 800 To Replace Each? But Astro/Fari Vans Go 500k Miles? They Stopped Making Them! Can We Interest You In Our Phone App? Like A Washing Machine You Would Think That You Wouldn't Have To Work For Shit That Should Work For You But There Is No Money In Selling Shit That Actually Works Past The Extended Warrantee You Paid! 47 Years I have Never Needed Wheel Hub Bearings In Any Car Ever Except a 71 Chevy Nova SS with 1K Miles! EZ Job Bearing and A Race And Grease But Now Its A Hub That Cost (4) $900's Each As Your Washing Machines Have Been Engineered To Fail Renting Parts! Put Enough Grease That Will Go 70k Miles On Our 60k Extended Warrantee From 2016. Some Idiots Have Cars That Last 500k Miles When Engineering Was Quality So That's Done If We Can Interest You In Phone Apps Telling You Your Oil And Washing Machine Has A leak And Your House Is Ruined.
Depends on the rust. Even for vehicle in dry climates the bearings can rust up on the axle and in the knuckle. It also depends on the tool. The slide hammer I used to pull it apart is a $800 tool and it works amazing. With a standard size slide hammer it may take much longer to break things apart. Labor time for that job depending on rust will typically be between 1.5hrs and 2.5 hrs per side.
Its been several months since I worked on this one but I think the reason was this. The closest dealer is over an hour away and the customer didn't want to have to drive there and wait for the repair. We recommend most of our customers back to the dealer if the car is still under warranty and even drop off their vehicle at the dealer if it is a local dealer.
In Response! If They Are Pinching Pennies Or Manufacturing This To Fail? They Have So Much Money To Make Commercials Telling How They Love And How Muck Love Goes Into These Subaru's But As The Payments Stop The Rents You These! Maybe If They Had To Change One And Have It The Love? The Love Is Not Working Changing Bearings That Vans at 300k Miles Never Need So If We Can Sell Stuff And You Can Buy And Make Payments And Can Rent! That Is Engineering! We Can Get If They Change their Oil On Wheel Bearings/Hubs. In Manufacturing And 37 Year Old Vehicles Without Cameras One The One I Want Would Be Focused On The Raw Steel In My $100 Thousand Dollar Shit Box Under My Car? I Live Under There Too So?
25 year ASE professional mechanic here: even in a shop with lifts, power tools, acetylene torch, experience, etc we cringe when this job comes in. It takes my Ingersoll Rand air hammer set to kill to break the bastard loose. Figure on replacing the backing plate as well. Start soaking with penetrant daily a month in advance and HAVE FUN !😅 Very misleading video. Thumbs down.
Are you kidding me? Did this car have 10 miles on it? I've been pounding on mine, used heat, slide hammer, air chisel for 2 DAYS and it hasn't moved at all! Now I have to TOW it someplace. Hows about showing us real world and not fantasy land.
It says right in the description that the car has 50000 miles. Most require the use of a slide hammer to remove if you live in a rusty area. If you live in an area of rust I suggest moving somewhere else like fantasy land. In fantasy land vehicles live longer than 5 yrs and come apart easily. Sometimes it’s more expensive to live in fantasy land also. If you need a good slide hammer I suggest a muellerkueps unit with the extra weight to make things easier. Be warned though it doesn’t have a 6 lug pattern. It will work on 4 and 5 lug vehicles. Have a great day!!
OK, so I just did this job yesterday on my son's 2017 Forester and it bordered on nightmarish. If you live anywhere in the rust belt, be prepared and be sure that you have the equipment to tackle this job. With the wheel, caliper/bracket & rotor off (easy) and the 4 hub retaining bolts loose from back of the knuckle, hub wouldn't budge. Tried a slide hammer over the studs...no dice; tried hammering the flange with a 5lb copper sledge...no dice. Finally used a long barrel air chisel with a blunt punch on the loosened hub bolts from in back of the spindle. Dialed up to 140 lbs of air pressure it took 10 minutes of air hammering to push the hub out, completely destroying the bolt heads.
Now comes the fun part, removing the hub from the backing plate. Held it on my lap and repeatedly struck the hub, trying to drive it from the backing plate...no dice. Air chisel with punch...no dice. Had to disassemble the parking brake and support the backing plate between two large logs stood on end and drove out the hub with the 5lb copper sledge, bending the bejesus out of the backing plates in the process. Reassembly is a breeze!
So, although they are about $100 each from the stealer, I'd strongly recommend buying new backing plates (dust shields in Subaru vernacular) before you start. I was astonished that a 5 year old vehicle had so much rust around these hubs, but the bearing area where they mount is large. This job was a bear!
Amen brother! I admitted defeat and bought a new knuckle and backing plate
Thanks for the heads-up. I'm in the rust belt and will have to consider if I want to attempt this or not. I certainly don't have an air chisel. Thanks again.
Hey, I just did mine with 104K miles. I would suggest spraying freeall once your ready to remove the hub after the bolts are out. I used a light hammer with a flathead and slowly changed from right to left side until it was able to be pulled out. Driver side took 2.5 hours total. After I determined the best course of action. 1 hour. I was able to keep my old parts. I am also in WNC so I'm Sure salt and snow doesn't help others situation.
@@MaxLewandowski-zx5wr I’m in Maryland which is below the salt belt and I had to replace the backing plate because it was between the a place to press. Not too bad once you realize your out another $80
@@MaxLewandowski-zx5wr 100% accurate. Here in Pennsylvania, the road salt (now brine and it's much worse) makes separating the backing plates from the hub very difficult. It's not as bad here as Michigan or Chicago for example, but rust binds these buggers tight! Next time, I'd opt to just spend the extra money and replace the backing plates also cuz I bent the bejesus ought of them and took a bunch of time to straighten them back out.
Wow! This video unrealistically made me believe this was a cake job. Rear right bearing went out at 70K miles in my 2017 XT. Using the same puller used in the video only separated the hub from the rest of the bearing assembly. Then came 8 solid hours of 8lb sledge hammer, air hammering and chiseling before needing to remove knuckle assembly and eventually press out remaining cartridge pieces from behind. Then, destroyed backing plate when trying to separate it from seized casting. 2nd trip to the parts dept was for a new backing plate. Then, a 3rd trip was necessary to replace the cracked ABS speed sensor. Don't know why removing the sensor isn't step #1. Inadvertently damaging that sensor cost almost as much as the bearing.
Rust belt suby?
Yes I’m right at the point of just replacing the whole knuckle. This is so dumb.
@@bryanhain969 I think the life of these hubs is inversely proportional to the number of potholes hit, and the amount of salt on the roadways.
I might have the same issue with the rust.. Any tips?
@@dustinkumar8289 I was able to do both rear wheel bearings on a 2016 forester with a good amount of rust in 35 minutes. All you need is a good hammer or if you really wanna get spicy an air hammer.
Thank you for the video. I was able to replace the entire hub assembly just like you showed and it only tok me 90min not too shabby for never have done it before. The only hard part was torquing the 4 backing plat bolts to 48lbs. Now my car sounds smooth again.
This video helped me tremendously! Thank you!! My dealership quoted me $680 to replace one wheel bearing. I said no, started researching, and came across this video (and others). I bought the wheel bearing for a little over $100, and even though it took me about 3 hours (I went slowly, and had to go get some supplies), it was done well and it was fixed! My next one should take about 30-45 minutes at most (but I don't have much rust at all on my hub assemblies). If anyone is doing this at home without an air wrench, I HIGHLY recommend two helper tools - a crowbar to brace across the bearing nuts when you're removing the axle nut, and a "cheater bar" - a steel pipe to slide over the socket wrench/breaker bar handle. Makes the job super easy.
And I will echo others' sentiments - this is the last Subaru I will ever own. I've owned Toyotas and Mazdas all my life, and never had a wheel bearing go out, or any other of the quirky CVT issues this car has. It drives like a delivery truck, and has something new wrong with it every 20K miles. A 2014 car with under 100K miles shouldn't have so many problems.
I use a piece of wood instead of a crowbar in order to not damage any threads. And I think I'm on the other side of Subaru karma, my 6 year old 80k mile vehicle has had 0 problems outside of recall stuff
My 2014 with 140k has been wonderful. Yes, some wheel bearings have gone bad, but they do in all cars at high mileage. The CVT isn't my favorite, but it gets great gas mileage.
I’m having issues getting the bearing out of the backing plate help!
@@brandenoa288 penetrating oil and a hammer. That was the hardest part of the job for me. Just keep beating on it.
I have to disagree, I own 2017 Forester and the first Suburu ever. So far 158000 miles and besides brake pads, oil, filters and other minors, I only replaced the serpentine belt becuse of milage, but still in perfect condition. Absolutely love 4 WD and the tracking in winter conditions.
Perhaps I'm lucky??😮😊
I really appreciate all of these comments about what went wrong. My dad and I tackled this job together and were able to do it without the puller assembly. Getting the bearing out of the back pad was difficult- but we used 2 old rotors, a few blocks of wood, a little bit of penetrating spray, and broke it loose. No damage done to the speed censor- thank you again for the warning on that. Overall the job took us less than an hour because we knew what to expect going in.
I think the best part about this is knowing that I can watch these videos myself and actually know what I’m doing. It’s doable! Just gotta be prepared and that can be the hardest part. Thank you everyone for the insight!
Can you please describe your technique? I am in the middle of this and would appreciate the short cut. Thanks.
Thanks for the video! I've had one wheel bearing go bad at 43,000mi and another at 58,000. Now my forester is out of warranty, and needs another one at 70,000. I will not be buying another Subaru after this one. Thanks again for the instructions.
Every car has its weaknesses. Still better than many American brands. Thanks for stopping by and I’m glad you found it helpful. Have an awesome weekend. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🔧🔧🔧🔧
He is right every vehicle has it's weakness as long as it isn't electronics, tranny or engine your better off with this vehicle
My 2017 Forester just had a rear wheel bearing go bad at 41K miles. Not really happy with Subaru at this point, between this and the abomination nav/infotainment system which is a horrible failure and has never been updated, and a dozen other irritating little problems, I can’t say I’d buy another Subaru again.
@@w3vjp568 Your next one will go out soon, as mine just went out at around 45k, now I'm near 53k and I'm hearing the honing sound around 40ish mph which I'm getting more a tuned with as time goes on. Why Subaru puts a different wheel bearing in the rear than the front is beyond me. Luckily I'm certified so I stll have 10 months of powertrain, but my guess is a little over 100k I'll have a repeat of this. Again to me if that is my only issue I'll be lucky. In my last vehicle the tranny died at 68k that was hard to stomach after buying the vehicle at 43k. I'll see where this goes.
@Cbeddoe19 there might be a recall for yours oil burning.
Thanks for the video! This is the one that convinced me to get a hub puller.
It still took me 4 hours... But it's done!
My first rear bearing went out at 120k. My second just went out at 190k. My gosh that thing is a pain. Wanted to get it myself, but ended up making an appointment back to the garage. You guys make it look so easy in the videos. Having the right tools helps, youtube videos helps. But your mechanics jobs will be safe as not everyone can be a mechanic, you guys don’t get paid enough!!.
We tried everything. Including a slide hammer. Lol thanks for sharing!.
Potter County Diggers Lol. Thanks for the comment. That is one of the reason I have a huge slide hammer. I struggled too long with a normal slide hammer and now I don’t have to work as hard.
Thanks for that.😓
Helpful. Will be doing this on our 2016 with 106k. Right rear is making noise. Odd, because it’s predecessor, our 2004, has never had a bearing issue and is at 300k and going strong!!
one item that is worth mentioning is that if you are doing this in your garage on a jackstand, disengage the parking break, as you won't be able to pull the rotor with the binders on. At least on the passenger side. One tool that worked for me for breaking the bearing is a pickle fork. did minimal damage to surfaces and while it was work, an hours worth of pounding freed it up.
PRO TIP - If the hub is stuck and being stubborn you can use a cold chisel to wedge in between the knuckle and the back plate. Works it out nicely. If you can get just a little bit of a gap first it works even better. Just be careful.
Rust belt, that's exactly how I got it off. 3/8" wedge cold chisel just pounded it in between and got a small gap started. Worked around and used bigger and bigger chisels. Then, banged on the hub with a sledge until it finally came off. Took about 4 hours to figure it out. I have one more to do and hopefully I can do it quicker.
I always always clean rust where the bearing goes in, carefully not touching the abs sensor. Then apply some copper grease on the bearing, cv axle and 4 nuts that hold it in place. It saves you so much trouble in the future.
I also just remove the ABS sensor, and apply antiseize to the sensor screw also.
My '10 Impreza bearings were so bad I had to pull the knuckles and press the hub assemblies out with my shop press. If you leave the struts attached, you can get away without an alignment, but you will have to deal with more mass when wrangling things around. I cleaned up and painted the knuckles and painted the new bearings, and antiseized everything.
I had to replace the rear axle seal last weekend, and it all came apart in under 15 minutes this time around.
I didn't need wheel bearings until after 190,000 miles. So things were really rusted up.
Subaru makes the tolerances a bit too snug, given they do nothing to prevent rust around the hub assemblies.
The wheel bearings on my '94 Sundance came out with no trouble at 125,000, but those have a lot more slop.
Our 2016 Subaru Forester has rear bearing/hub growl, or so I thought. Listening to the whirring on your video, now I'm certain. 71,000 miles. R/R Hub assy. Going to use OEM Parts.
Thank You for your video, you just made my day a little easier!
Replacing mine now. Thanks for listing tq spec for axle nut and hub mtg bolts! Mine made it to 135000 miles.2017 West Coast Forester . 2.5i FJB Edition
FJB, lol
This guy did it in four minutes; between ordering parts (including the hub blaster tool) and whacking with a sledgehammer after spraying with penetrating oil it took me a week.
That’s horrible I am on 4 hrs and the hub is separated on my 17 Outback when I used the slide hammer. Now I have to take off the rest😢. Not a fun task I am looking for that miracle tool.
One wheel bearing of my 18 Forester was bad and was in the 5year/60k warranty. So the dealer has replaced it for free. Now another one has turned bad and is out of warranty. I would DIY. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Our Forester'17 is making noise at highway speed. Only 85K kms (~52K miles) on the Odo... Dealer is saying to replace BOTH bearings, at C$815+13% tax, for EACH 😱! I have to shop around.. Wish I could do all this work myself and save significant dough 😥
Doing both rear bearings on a 2014 in New England. One side came out somewhat okayishly… the other side I’ve been fighting for 4 hours.
Thank you for your video, just love Chet Atkins and the 8 track too. Best video ever!😊
Almost NEVER this easy on most Subies in the rust belt. Replacing my 2010's rear bearings 135,000 miles.
Did you have any luck replacing yiur rear Subies bearing hub? I need to do mine on my 2010 outback but think ill just take it to a mechanic as the rusted in part is kinda making not want to do it.
I just did this on my OB… a sledgehammer was the tool of choice. This never ever ever this easy.
@@MyBridgestone24 Totally agree, all of the ones we have done were much more involved.
Great video. Nothing fancy. Straight to the point. Thank you!!
This car has obviously never seen salt. I have done 3 of these in NY, minimum of 4 hours of heat, PB, pound, repeat one of them took 10 hours. Always use some type of never seize on everything when you put it back together.
Edited: The torue spec in this video is correct. 190 N·m (19.37kgf-m, 140.1ft-lb). Sorry if I misled anyone.
Where did you see 162? I see 140 everywhere.
@@surfobx031 Yeah sorry. I'm not sure where I found that information but you're right. It's 190 N·m (19.37kgf-m, 140.1ft-lb).
@@7511fsm right on, thanks.
My left rear hub is making noise at only 37,000, but looks like something I can tackle. Thanks!
2014 forester, replaced one rear at 45k and now the other one at 53k. If you look up OEM part, notice it has been "upgraded/superceded" because of this being a known issue. After 2 minor recalls, 2 bearings, complete AC replacement (another known issue with subaru service number)...I'm very disappointed after 53k. Used to have a 2005 Honda accord with 230k with an oxygen sensor being the only issue I had.
It’s probably still under warranty. Let someone else do it!
Uh,..read the comments before attempting this, dude.
I really should have read the comments on this. Took me 7 hours.
Not normal to come out that easy! On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping.
Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
I’m getting my front left done tomorrow 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5i with 142000km
I have a 2014 just had my wheel bearing changed started making noise at 47000 miles got it replaced at 51000. This guy got a free wheel bearing replacement obviously as he is under 60k
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I tried this on my 2017 impreza and the existing barring assembly separated.. the piece that slides over the drive shaft came out but the other piece still remains.. is there any trick to unfu*k myself here..?
Even with slide hammer, could not get bearing out. Bearing Started separating NEVER had on get this stuck.
Only 77K miles
2017 Outback 70k miles driver side rear bearing done
Slobber anti seize on all metal mating surfaces before reassembly.
Subaru replaced my front passenger wheel bearing at 18000 miles. According to Subaru my 2 rear wheel bearings need replacement now at 80,000
very nice video. thank you!
Thanks 4 the video it very helpful.
Known issue on these. My 16’ has had both rear bearings replaced and I’m doing it a second time this weekend, only at 113,000 miles. Autozone bearings are junk, seeing how the “upgraded” moog ones work this time, and see how many miles I get. Think it’s an under design issue from Subaru.
Use only subaru OEM parts. very cheap online.
@@brackishadventures2577 seems like consensus here is that the Subaru OEM are the junk ones that fall apart after 50,000 miles to begin with. Why would you replace him with the same crap?
Once I do this will an alignment be needed?
Not if you didn't need one before
I just had both wheel bearing replaced on my 2017 Forester with 103000km on the odo. Three days after replacement, the drive shaft dislocated whilst driving the car. What would have caused this? and it may seem obvious, but is this due to poor workmanship?
The driveshaft shouldn’t have been touched during the wheel bearing replacement so it may have been a coincidence. Unless the shaft was removed to inspect the carrier bearing for noise.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks for the reply. On inspecting the damaged part at the dealership it appears that the end tip section of the spline on the shaft - where it goes into the wheel hub, sheared clean off - just the tip section from where the circlip goes over the shaft - it is as if this end section was bearing all the torque from the drive?
Hey man. Thanks for the video. I had my rear bearing replaced and now I have ABS and traction control lights on my dash on. Is that related? Did they mess something up?
It is possible. The wheel speed sensor is mounted right behind the wheel bearing and some of these sensors read a magnet in the wheel bearing and some rear a toothed wheel on the axle.
Inexpensive bearing may do that. Pay for a quality Timkin, BCA or better yet OEM bearing the first time so you don’t have to do the job twice.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Be careful about getting any magnets near the new bearing or you might damage the magnets embedded in the bearing.
thanks for the video
Is it the same between the AWD and 2wd? I also noticed you used a puller. I started to use a puller too but I was afraid I would damage the axle with all the force needed to pull the hub out
First Off! This Forester He Is Working On Has 50k Miles So Subaru Should Own This Defect Regardless Of Miles! I Have Astro Vans That Go 500k Miles Never Needing Wheel Bearing/Hubs!
Second: This Forester Has Never Seen Salt Or New England Weather!
So After Doing Both Sides Of My 2014 XT Once Its Rusted In The Wheel Nut Puller Only Rips The Bearings Out Leaving You With The Seized Housing That Is Rusted!
So: All You Need is A Tiny Chisel In The Right Spot and A Big Machinist Hammer Hammer!
It Took Me 4 Days Watching RUclips Videos And Rust Inhibitor Letting It Soak That Did Nothing For Days! Now From Doing It The Hard Way To 5 Hours Doing It The EZ Way!
Yes I Have Impact Guns and The 4 Bolts Might Need Extra Impact But If The Bolt Heads Shear Off And They Didn't, No Problem The Hub Will Come Out And The New One Doesn't Come With New Ones But At $900 Plus Dollars A Few Bolts Won't Ever Cost anywhere Near The Cost To Have Subaru Do It!
Here We Have A Subaru With 50K Miles! Mine Has 120 Thousand Miles and All Replaced But One! Why Are We Doing This To A 40 Thousand Dollar Car? Well They Gave You A Harman Kardin Stereo System and A Back Up Camera.
Put The Camera Under The Car So We Can Watch The Break lines Rust Out Because Stopping Was Always A Great Feature!
Amazon Sells This Same Part For $157.00 Genuine Subaru Parts On Line/$300 Dealer Discount And Just A Little Chisel and Hammer Like Shawshank Redemption And A Metric 33mm Socket and Torque Is Very Important! Don't Over Tighten The Wheel Nut Just The 4 Hub Nuts.
Anti-Seize Everything Because If You Keep It You Will Be Doing It Again Like Oil Changes And Are The New Standard Of How Long They Feel You Should Be Enjoying Your 40 Thousand Dollars So Renting Your Hubs Makes Money!
It's a Pretty Massive Unit But Must Have Just Enough Engineered Grease To Go Over Your Warrantee Period!
The Chisel By The Way Goes Behind The Rotor Shield Between The Housing and What Ever They Call It! Mother nature Adds An Entirely Different Procedure! She Seems To Like a Little Chisel :O)
I Was Thinking Of UP-Grading To A HONDA PASSPORT WHITE/BLACK Addition But All Raw Steel!
So My Question Would Be: Why Are We Working For Our Cars When They Should Work For Us With 50K Miles? That Cost This Money? I'm So Happy With My 1995 Astro Van At 500K Miles Never Needing Wheel Bearings Or Really Anything If Undercoated Before Rusting Out.
Can We Interest You In Our Phone Apps. No Thank You I Have Been Screwed Enough Thank You :O)
Highly articulate rant, dude. Think that covered everything. Punctuation saves lives, though.😂
Great video!
Do I need to replace the hub if I need my bearing replace?
We replaced the right rear wheel bearing on our 2017 Outback at 50,000 also, about to replace the left one at 81K miles.
2016 Forester and it sounds like I have a single engine airplane motor attached to the read of my car. Is it common for wheel bearings going out on these cars?
William Turner yes it very common for them to fail. Many on here have had to replace many of them.
Turner your comment made me laugh. Im replacing the rear pas side @80k.
Never seen a wheel bearing come out that easy 😭 usually have to bolt on an old modified wheel bearing and beat on it to get it out
These look like an assembly with the bearing already pressed in. I replaced wheel bearings on some older vehicles I owned and there was a big cast knuckle thing you had to press the bearing in and out of, or pay some astronomical amount for a new knuckle with the bearing pressed in already.
So when you use hub puller, it's pulling against cv axle? That won't damage it?
The CV axle was free from the hub. If you live in a rusty area, you may need to use a different style polar to push the axle out of the hub first. Some vehicles require the use of penetrating oils and or heat to get the axle to come free from the hub. This was a very low mileage vehicle in a part of the country that gets minimal rest made the job look easier than most vehicles that come in the door.
@@ThePracticalMechanic pretty sure then it will take a lot to get mine out. 80,000 miles. Norther NJ.
if i jack my car up by all fours and put it in d would both backs spin so i can listen for that noise? i think it's my right as i can hear something when i spin it by hand. from inside the car it sounds like a single engine airplane cruising by at an air show starting at 25 mph and gets louder and faster from there up.
Yes, just be cautious of what’s in front of you, behind you and under the car because the movement of the wheels may cause a shift in weight and shake the car off the jack stands. I have done it many times with jack stands without a problem.
@@ThePracticalMechanic great, thank you
Hi,
if my 2018 forester has eyesight, is the process the same? Or are they additional steps? TIA
It should be the same process. If you need an alignment afterwards you may have to get the eyesight calibrated.
@ThePracticalMechanic thanks so much for responding!
Can you just take the 32mm axel nut off without "unpunching" it? How do i get the nut off its punched in
I normally just lube up the threads and zip it off with an impact. I normally don’t try to unpunch the nut.
Up here in Ohio a couple year old Japanese steel vehicle does not come apart like this it takes hours to remove.
Did anyone have an issue where the bearing separated but the back half stayed in the spindle? 2016 forester right rear
I'm having this problem now, looking for a solution. It's partially apart in my garage and I don't know what I'm supposed to do from here.
I saw another commenter on a different bearing replacement video said he had to weld a piece of metal to it and quenched it so that it shrank really fast which broke it loose.
I've been trying a hub buster tool with no luck. It's almost completely pulled out the hub from the race/housing attached to the knuckle. Trying an air hammer on the flange bolts from behind next but if that doesn't work I'll remove the entire knuckle and have a shop press it out.
is this process approximately the same on a crosstrek (same year same miles_
Yeah, not too different, basically the same
Quick question...when you test the bearing, is the axle at a bind pointing down, or is it at level?
If you have the suspension hanging like I do in the video the axle will have a slight angle on it but shouldn’t be in a bind unless the vehicle is lifted.
30k miles and im in need of doing this already.
I assume this is not a rust belt car. It looks awfully clean.
This video was done in a totally new car ,this removal procese never happen so easy ,this Subaru get rusted and the bearing most of the time gets almost welded to the spindle and it take a lot of effort to remove ,most of the car you will have to remove a lot of suspensions components to remove the 4 bolts that hold the knuckle ,not in the subaru but ,(this cars are very mechanic friendly) but when they get rust jajajaja they rust really bad
would this be the same process for a 2017 impreza rear hub?
I haven’t done an Impreza recently but it should be the same. The older Subaru’s used a press in bearing but I believe all the newer ones use a bolt in hub assembly.
I like my 09 legacy but I don't think I'll own another subaru again. I think they really missed the mark with the ascent being a turbocharged / cvt. this is crazy. Next you'll be doing a headgasket for them at 59k.
Can you post a link for the hub puller?
I used components from this kit from OTC. amzn.to/2U5w9Z2
2018 Forester with 22,300 miles. Pretty sure I have a bad wheel bearing on the driver side rear. That and the weird bucking the thing does all the to 70 MPH and I think it'll be my first and last Subaru.
Don't use subaru oem bearings if they are failing that early. I'd go with SKF branded bearings since they have 3 year warranty.
Same process for the XT?
Most of them in this year range should be very similar.
71 k on Forrester bought new. Now need rear bearings. Needed fronts at 40k. AC compressor now. Never again! Toyota Honda only!!!
How did you get the rear to run when it is lifted on a hoist
Since it's all wheel drive and the wheels are not under load it will spin them up when I run the car in gear. I just accelerate smoothly to prevent the viscous coupler from heating up or having the traction control kick in.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thanks. The howling humming sound in my car comes on and off.. does this mean it’s it’s still in the early stages of failure? I’ve only got 50k kms on it. Hate to go to the dealer hoping it’s warranty then they’ll charge me for diagnostics saying they can’t replicate the noise I’m saying.
I don’t have any wheel play as well. No vibrations. Just the howling humming noise that comes and goes.
I want to see you chang one with 100 k from Newelingland not Arazona
i wanna see him doing at 80K in Maine :)
Again Look At The Hub Where It Mounts To The What (They) Call A Knuckle I Call A Vital Thing That Holds The Wheel On The Vehicle! The (4) Bolts Are At The Back Behind The Breaks, They For The Most Part Come Right Out With Impact Wrench But The Hub? Not So Much! The Flange Of The Hub Has Rotted Inside The Knuckle, Once You See it You Will Understand! You Can Use Slide Hammers That Will Separate The Bearings From The Hub That Is Fused And Rotted To The Control Arms That Hold The Hub!
On The Right Side Of The Hub Where It Mounts After Removing The Bolts (4) From The Back Side Look At The Flange! On The Upper Right Side Use A Half Inch Chisel From The Top And Hammer That Puppy In! Once You See A Gap Between The Flange It's Out In A Few Minutes! A 900 Dollar Secret! Each And The Parts Cast 150 OEM Amazon But 327.00 Dealer
Make Sure To Remove The Anti- Lock Wheel Sensor. You Might Get ABS Codes Otherwise! I Went From Four Days To 4 Hours! 900- 150 Should Be A Recall But Engineered To Fail After Extended Warrantees. 500K Miles I Only Need A Wheel Bearing On A 1991 Nova That Cost 20 Bucks And A Few Hours Replacing The Bearing And Race, Setting The Bearing And Grease, Now It's A Sealed Hub No Fittings With Just Enough Grease To Last for 70k Miles!
And They Thought We Are Stupid? Only Our Dealerships Have The Tools And Monkeys That Can Do This Job But RUclips Is A Tool They Don't Have\, Not A Job For Local Mechanics! They Use Slide Hammers And The Damage They Do You Pay As They Learn. A 1/2 Inch Chisel And Machinist Hammer.
But You Do Need Impacted If In The Salt Belt If You Have 125 Thousand Miles, Our XT Has All New! Everything So Buckle For Electric Cars With Electric Bills Like We Should Pay For The Convenience Of Screw Guns To Make Money And Pay Tax.
where did you get that pulley from
Here is the slide hammer set I use. amzn.to/2FWu12q
Will a '16 Crosstrek be similar?
Should be very similar if not identical. Some of the older Subarus had press in bearings but the newer ones have the bolt in flange.
Do you need to do a wheel alignment afterwards?
It would be a good idea but is not always required. I make sure the car drives straight and doesn't pull after the repair. If the car has higher miles or hasn't had an alignment in a while it would be a good idea to get one done. Make sure the shop is capable of performing a 4 wheel alignment.
Why are you replacing parts on a vehicle that is under warranty?
At the customers request. The dealership is over an hour away and the customer didn’t want to deal with it. We often call the dealerships on low mileage vehicles to verify if the repair is covered under warranty and then inform the customer. Most thank us and take it in for the free repair but some choose to have us perform the work.
the rear bearing failure are known issue on these 2017 forester.....some also have aircond compressor and front suspension bushing issue....
Is Subaru doing anything about it? Mine failed at approx 50K miles too.
@@jimross8627 if you still got the warranty on them, claim them. Else, be prepared to replace them when the issue occurred.
This video is invalid I BOUGHT THE SAME POS BEARING PULLER that bearing came out way TO EASY In this video had to use a 12 ton press in order to get the bearing out almost broke the press. Used about a half of a tank of mapp gas the bearing broke free sending parts across my garage while bending my harbor freight press had about 10 tons of force applied and it wouldn’t move don’t go off this video at all trust me I’m saving your life.
Same. Mine didnt come out until I brought the torch out.. lol
What is that separation tool called
Shawn Warnick a slide hammer and wheel hub adaptor is what I used.
Its their supplier called NTN they just slap their own part# on it., mine went out at 30k at the front then at 90k. subaru is using a cheap supplier for their bearings. great video, on another note i noticed subaru use that cheap ass drum brakes on the forester. UGH!
Gary Anderson it seems like more and more manufacturers are going for cheap instead of good. If all the aftermarket manufacturers have to do is meet the OE spec their stuff isn’t much better.
Thank you for the OE brand of Subaru wheel bearing.
Dude that is a drum brake for the parking brake so don't worry the main brake is on the disc rotor. Many manufactures do this.
Jow are moog bearings?
@@Hallowsaw I went moog on my impreza- going to do the wife's forester with moog in a few weeks- 60k on the first set, 30k on the second set - unbelievable
Subaru! It's What People Love About Subaru! The 2.5 Oil Sucking Design! The 2.0 XT It's What Makes A Subaru, The Love? Engineer Your Cars With Engines That Don't Drink Oil On The 2.5, Selling These Engines Is In My Opinion Fraud With Extended Bumper To Bumper That A Non Warranted Part Damaged The Parts And Located Between The Front And Rear bumper! Your Not Covered For Anything
I guess I've got lucky, 2017 with 158000 and right rear bearing just started making some noise so I want to fix it before winter. Love the 4 wheel drive. Love to buy a new one but the price went up $10,000, can't afford 😢😢😢
All The Wheel Bearings Are Now Breaking Down From 2012 to 2015 On Foresters The Top Selling Loved Vehicle! HUBS $900 At The Dealer Each! No It's No Cake Walk! Once You Do One Then It's 2.5 Hours Even In New England. Sledge Hammers, Slide Hammers, Etc. Why Is This Happening To People When We Owned Vehicles That Never Need These At 400K Miles?
MONEY! 900 Each Dealer. $155 Do It Yourself But You Need Tools That People Don't Have. Using A Slide Hammer On A Frozen Hub Will Only Pull The Bearings From The Hub And Nothing To Pull On After That! Once You Remove The Wheel Sensor! Look At The Top Right Of The Flange That Mounts The Hub To The Knuckle! Remove The 4 Bolts Behind The Hub And One Or Two Might Require An Impact Wrench And Rust Inhibitor?
Look At The Flange On The New Bearing And How It Mounts To The Knuckle! On The Top Right There Is An Area (Flat) Take A 1/2 Inch Chisel And A Machinist Hammer And Hammer The Chisel In That One Spot And Without Rust Remover Causing No Damage Repeatedly Hammer The Chisel In That Spot! Anywhere Else On The Flange The Chisel Has Bolts In The Way Preventing It From Being Hammered Directly To Separate The Hub.
As Far As Subaru Technicians? They Provide Video's Of How EZ It Is! In Florida Maybe?
Read Below, Some Victim Needed To Replace His At 70k Miles! Engendered To Fail, They Want Your Love Of Subaru To Pay Them On Repair After The Extended Warrantee Has Expired!
I Have 1995 Vehicles With 400K Miles That Never Need These Repairs! Hold On Contact Engineering!
Everything Has A Best If Used Date! Ya! Your Fifty Thousand On Car Payments Was Nice But We Need To Make More Money.
Why Are These Products Working So Long? No Money In That! Can't We Adjust The Amount Of Grease That Goes 100K And Eliminate Grease Fitting So They Can't Maintain Our Products?
That Is Want Makes Subaru A Subaru! The Love Of Money And Payments. Honda Is The Same! Toyota And VVTI All Garbage..
went with a Timken unit
Good Choice. They always make quality parts.
The hand brake needs to be off to get the bearing out!!!
Why won’t Subaru do something about their junky wheel bearings. No it’s not weird. Been issue for years.
I was just think it was weird at 50k. In my area they normally last 100k. Your absolutely correct, Subaru has had bearing issues for a long time. Must cost too much to engineer and produce a longer lasting bearing and cost is a big factor in new cars.
I went to 180k with my Saturn not a single wheel bearing issue on it and sold it to someone with working wheel bearings. I did not baby it took it on many road trips even one night when I was tired on a road trip I didn't see the speed bump warning and hit it at 45 of course sending me airborne. Subaru must have a bad wheel bearing supplier.
Yeah mine was junk at 100k
210K on my Honda before a wheel bearing went..... 64k on my 2017 Subaru. :(
I think the car manufactures like these hub bearings because they fail AFTER warranty reliably.
That's a whole hub replacement, not a bearing replacement.
I don't think you can separate the bearing from the hub, so you must replace it as a unit.
I lost a rear wheel bearing on my 2015 Forester at only 38,000 miles.
Lost mine on my 2017 at 20k. Seems a little premature lol
8lb sledge, as hard as you can
This is a nightmare of job to do....it is not that easy this is a newer car....
THE FIRST QUESTION! Why are We Replacing A Wheel Hub On A 50k Mile Subaru? This Is Not Mentioned In Commercials Of What Makes A Subaru A Subaru And The Love!
Buy Old Pre-Engendering Failures! Seal The Oil Fills And No Grease Fittings Because People Are Maintaining Our Products And We Can't Allow That! If Your In The Salt Belt This Professional Video Is Not Useful And Will Cost 2 Grand In Damages. Looks Easy Right? If You Want Someone To Do It For Less Than 1,000 Under The $900 Estimated Expense Reports!
Your Bill For One Hub Is 1,000 Dollars On XT A 38 Thousand Dollar Vehicle! Subaru Stands Behind All Claims.
these bearings are crap. mine failed at 65K miles the first time and again at 79k miles.
So In 2017 They Re-Engineered The 2014 XT Wheel Hubs To Last 50K miles Renting Parts That Cost 800 To Replace Each? But Astro/Fari Vans Go 500k Miles? They Stopped Making Them! Can We Interest You In Our Phone App? Like A Washing Machine You Would Think That You Wouldn't Have To Work For Shit That Should Work For You But There Is No Money In Selling Shit That Actually Works Past The Extended Warrantee You Paid! 47 Years I have Never Needed Wheel Hub Bearings In Any Car Ever Except a 71 Chevy Nova SS with 1K Miles! EZ Job Bearing and A Race And Grease But Now Its A Hub That Cost (4) $900's Each As Your Washing Machines Have Been Engineered To Fail Renting Parts! Put Enough Grease That Will Go 70k Miles On Our 60k Extended Warrantee From 2016. Some Idiots Have Cars That Last 500k Miles When Engineering Was Quality So That's Done If We Can Interest You In Phone Apps Telling You Your Oil And Washing Machine Has A leak And Your House Is Ruined.
I’m not sure if it was engineered with short lifespan or if they were pinching pennies in production.
They do not come out that easy after about 50000 miles total rusted in the hub north east vehicles rust belt sorry not just that simple
WAY TOO EASY
For an experienced mechanic at the dealer seems like about a 1 hour job?
Depends on the rust. Even for vehicle in dry climates the bearings can rust up on the axle and in the knuckle. It also depends on the tool. The slide hammer I used to pull it apart is a $800 tool and it works amazing. With a standard size slide hammer it may take much longer to break things apart. Labor time for that job depending on rust will typically be between 1.5hrs and 2.5 hrs per side.
should be still under factory warranty.
Its been several months since I worked on this one but I think the reason was this. The closest dealer is over an hour away and the customer didn't want to have to drive there and wait for the repair. We recommend most of our customers back to the dealer if the car is still under warranty and even drop off their vehicle at the dealer if it is a local dealer.
Good save. It is under warranty until 60K. This is some bs having these go out at 50K here.
In Response! If They Are Pinching Pennies Or Manufacturing This To Fail? They Have So Much Money To Make Commercials Telling How They Love And How Muck Love Goes Into These Subaru's But As The Payments Stop The Rents You These! Maybe If They Had To Change One And Have It The Love? The Love Is Not Working Changing Bearings That Vans at 300k Miles Never Need So If We Can Sell Stuff And You Can Buy And Make Payments And Can Rent! That Is Engineering! We Can Get If They Change their Oil On Wheel Bearings/Hubs. In Manufacturing And 37 Year Old Vehicles Without Cameras One The One I Want Would Be Focused On The Raw Steel In My $100 Thousand Dollar Shit Box Under My Car? I Live Under There Too So?
25 year ASE professional mechanic here: even in a shop with lifts, power tools, acetylene torch, experience, etc we cringe when this job comes in. It takes my Ingersoll Rand air hammer set to kill to break the bastard loose. Figure on replacing the backing plate as well. Start soaking with penetrant daily a month in advance and HAVE FUN !😅
Very misleading video. Thumbs down.
Definitely not a professional install.
Only 50k miles on a 2017? wheel bearing replacement already?WOW Subaru's are garbage.
All vehicles have their problems and wheel bearings are an issue on these.
Are you kidding me? Did this car have 10 miles on it? I've been pounding on mine, used heat, slide hammer, air chisel for 2 DAYS and it hasn't moved at all! Now I have to TOW it someplace. Hows about showing us real world and not fantasy land.
It says right in the description that the car has 50000 miles. Most require the use of a slide hammer to remove if you live in a rusty area. If you live in an area of rust I suggest moving somewhere else like fantasy land. In fantasy land vehicles live longer than 5 yrs and come apart easily. Sometimes it’s more expensive to live in fantasy land also.
If you need a good slide hammer I suggest a muellerkueps unit with the extra weight to make things easier. Be warned though it doesn’t have a 6 lug pattern. It will work on 4 and 5 lug vehicles.
Have a great day!!