I have been told so many times I couldnt use my machine for quilting, and I couldnt see why not, with a few adjustments. Now I know how! Thank you. Wish you lived in the UK so I could have you service and set the machine for me.
I've had my 1181 for a couple months. I use Tex 40 sewing (top to bottom) 2 layers thin/slick poly poplin, 1-2 layers of batting, 1 layer stabilizer (Pellon 50 or 926). The adjustments I found that worked were: reducing the thread tension as much as possible. It seemed like the tension adj (pg 23 of the manual) only helped so far before the takeup spring tension & travel (pg 24) added its own tension. I reduced the spring tension so that the spring is loose for the first 1/16" of travel. The spring's full travel during a cycle is 1/4" (I might reduce that travel a little still, or reduce the tension a little more so the first 1/8" is slop before the spring tension engages). Pg 46 says the thread-guide above the tension spring should move the right for lighter fabrics. (I moved mine 1/8" from the center line. Maybe going going further would accomplish what I might try above: reducing the spring travel a little more, and/or reducing the spring tension a little more with more slop in the spring's initial state). Those seemed to help the thread tension, stopped getting puckering. (The next thing I was going to try is the thread post on top. The thread wraps around that to go through two holes. That might add more tension to the thread than going through one hole. Raising the silver presser-foot pressure screw (on top) helped a lot. I'm still unclear how it and its neighbor black feed-pressure screw work together. I feel like that should be raised too (then maybe the silver presser screw lowered again). These two are mysterious to me. It's not clear what they do independently of each other. Pg 27 recommends lowering the feed dogs for lighter material (esp. if it puckers). I haven't tried that yet (but, I'm not getting puckering with the above adjustments). Pg 34 talks about multi-layer fabric not feeding properly, and adjusting the "longitudinal" position of the outer walking foot to the center presser foot. (that was on my list to try if I wasn't satisfied with any of the above). I installed my bobbin in its case pointing the opposite direction than pg 19 shows. Mine winds _into_ the slot, not against the slot. That seemed to give me less bobbin tension than I could get with the bobbin unwinding against the slot (it unwinds into it). I.e., the official bobbin tension screw stopped helping at some point. (I should revisit this to verify after getting the top tension dialed in). It would be interesting to see a video going through all these things showing what they do (at their extremes) with lighter fabric, multi layers.
Thank you for the video it is helpful, however when switching to sewing on lighter materials you only mention the thread as being a tex40 I believe but you never mention needing to change the needle size for lighter fabrics or any adjusting the bobbin case for lighter thread, this would be super helpful
Hello! For minky fabric, if I am just using two layers, would you recommend this machine or a regular straight stitch machine? I also want to sew light weight fabric as well so I am not sure which industrial machine to go with. Thanks!
is the Juki DU-1181N for thicker fabrics and vinyl? I make bags with thicker fabrics and vinyl. Corners are really tough on even the "work horses" of home machines. I have never had an industrial.
Again as always love all your videos, was watching the timing hook video, wish you had one specific for the DNU 1181, PLEASE, and ran across this outstanding video for lighter fabrics. Thank you💕❤️💕😍😍
Got it figured out, my problem was, trying to time it in the lowest position, on the Du 1181 it has to be 1/16 inch above the lowest point for the timing to be accurate for that machine. Thank you for the link I will save it for the next time it goes out, because I am sure it will happen again. Had my 1181 for 8 years, this is only the second time it has ever gone out,. I am so grateful that you guys are taking the time to share these videos!!
I have been told so many times I couldnt use my machine for quilting, and I couldnt see why not, with a few adjustments. Now I know how! Thank you. Wish you lived in the UK so I could have you service and set the machine for me.
Thank you Steve for setting the check spring on my Juki DU-1181 when we bought it from you. It works great for binding quilts.
No problem Ann. Your machine setup was the inspiration for this video. Thank you!
I've had my 1181 for a couple months. I use Tex 40 sewing (top to bottom) 2 layers thin/slick poly poplin, 1-2 layers of batting, 1 layer stabilizer (Pellon 50 or 926). The adjustments I found that worked were: reducing the thread tension as much as possible. It seemed like the tension adj (pg 23 of the manual) only helped so far before the takeup spring tension & travel (pg 24) added its own tension. I reduced the spring tension so that the spring is loose for the first 1/16" of travel. The spring's full travel during a cycle is 1/4" (I might reduce that travel a little still, or reduce the tension a little more so the first 1/8" is slop before the spring tension engages). Pg 46 says the thread-guide above the tension spring should move the right for lighter fabrics. (I moved mine 1/8" from the center line. Maybe going going further would accomplish what I might try above: reducing the spring travel a little more, and/or reducing the spring tension a little more with more slop in the spring's initial state). Those seemed to help the thread tension, stopped getting puckering. (The next thing I was going to try is the thread post on top. The thread wraps around that to go through two holes. That might add more tension to the thread than going through one hole.
Raising the silver presser-foot pressure screw (on top) helped a lot. I'm still unclear how it and its neighbor black feed-pressure screw work together. I feel like that should be raised too (then maybe the silver presser screw lowered again). These two are mysterious to me. It's not clear what they do independently of each other. Pg 27 recommends lowering the feed dogs for lighter material (esp. if it puckers). I haven't tried that yet (but, I'm not getting puckering with the above adjustments). Pg 34 talks about multi-layer fabric not feeding properly, and adjusting the "longitudinal" position of the outer walking foot to the center presser foot. (that was on my list to try if I wasn't satisfied with any of the above).
I installed my bobbin in its case pointing the opposite direction than pg 19 shows. Mine winds _into_ the slot, not against the slot. That seemed to give me less bobbin tension than I could get with the bobbin unwinding against the slot (it unwinds into it). I.e., the official bobbin tension screw stopped helping at some point. (I should revisit this to verify after getting the top tension dialed in).
It would be interesting to see a video going through all these things showing what they do (at their extremes) with lighter fabric, multi layers.
Your videos are so incredibly helpful. Found you through the Juki group on Facebook. Thank you, thank you!
You are very welcome.
Thanks for that Steve I wondered how I could get rid of puckering on lightweight material.
You are most welcome.
Thanks for your videos,are really helpful.
You are welcome!
thanks for great video. am going to buy a juki 8000A soon. maybe next week. I love juki.
Thank you for this video. Would you change the needle size and if so, to what size please?
We are using a size 14 needle in this video.
why will my juki 1181n not sew with size 18 needle
Hi! I know this video is older, but i bought the juki du-1181 and would like to sew delicate materials with it too. Is that even possible?
Thank you for the video it is helpful, however when switching to sewing on lighter materials you only mention the thread as being a tex40 I believe but you never mention needing to change the needle size for lighter fabrics or any adjusting the bobbin case for lighter thread, this would be super helpful
He is using a size 14 needle in the video
@@RC-jf6rjthank you
Thanks Steve for the demonstration. I do have juki DDL 8100ehx which I want to see lighter material too. So can I do the same adjustment like you did?
Yes, absolutely.
Hi Steve, Do you know how to adjust the torque on the Reliable 6000sm motor? I need more torque. i sew veg tan leather. Thanks.
Why is the machine draging and not sewing freely
Hello! For minky fabric, if I am just using two layers, would you recommend this machine or a regular straight stitch machine? I also want to sew light weight fabric as well so I am not sure which industrial machine to go with. Thanks!
A regular straight stitch like the Juki DDL-5550N or Juki DDL-8700 would be better for 2 layers of you fabric.
Steve... I found this helpful. Would it be the same for the Judi 1541S? I do have tension issues on lighter fabrics.
Adjusting the check spring on the DNU-1541S is slightly different. We have not tried it yet.
@@Sewinggold I was wondering the same thing, would love to see how to make this adjustment on a 1541 & 1508.
Hi what size needle do you use? And size thread to go with the needle please?
This video is with T40 thread. We were either using a size 14 or 16 needle. The class of needle was DPx17.
This is really great to know thank you !
Any time!
is the Juki DU-1181N for thicker fabrics and vinyl? I make bags with thicker fabrics and vinyl. Corners are really tough on even the "work horses" of home machines. I have never had an industrial.
The Juki DU-1181N is definitely for thicker fabrics and vinyl. This video was a request to sew on some lighter weight material.
What foot is that?
It is the standard split toe the machine comes with.
Nic
Again as always love all your videos, was watching the timing hook video, wish you had one specific for the DNU 1181, PLEASE, and ran across this outstanding video for lighter fabrics. Thank you💕❤️💕😍😍
Use this video for hook timing on the DU-1181N. It is the same. ruclips.net/video/GxMT3UfE_tk/видео.html
Got it figured out, my problem was, trying to time it in the lowest position, on the Du 1181 it has to be 1/16 inch above the lowest point for the timing to be accurate for that machine. Thank you for the link I will save it for the next time it goes out, because I am sure it will happen again. Had my 1181 for 8 years, this is only the second time it has ever gone out,. I am so grateful that you guys are taking the time to share these videos!!
:)