How to Photograph the 2024 Solar Eclipse - with Stan Honda
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2024
- Join AAA astrophotographer Stan Honda as he explains how to photograph the April 8, 2024 solar eclipse, and answers questions about gear, preparation, and getting the most out of the experience.
Stan Honda is a New York-based photographer and worked as a photojournalist for 34 years, most recently for Agence France-Presse (AFP), the French news agency, covering a wide range of topics including news events, politics, economics, sports, and human interest stories.
Send your eclipse photography questions to Stan.honda@aaa.org. 
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I live just north of Dayton Ohio. It will be amazing in my back yard. I used to be an avid photographer but stopped that hobby when kids arrived. I may dust off the old digital with my lenses and see if I can get some pics. I took the day off to enjoy the show regardless 😮
I just realized the Meridian flip earlier today when I checked photopills augmented reality for Sulphur springs, TX. Thanks for bringing this up... 01:21:20
That is very true and aye I’m going to be in Commerce, TX.
hi Stan do you have the vimeo link for the photoshop composition ?
You SHOULD change the camera settings for the diamond ring and Bailey’s beads! If you’re shooting at something like ISO 200 f/11 1/250 with the filter, you need to go to more like 1/2000 for the diamond rings and Bailey’s beads.
Go to 30:20 in the video to see consecutive RAW frames of the partial to diamond ring effect transition shot at the same exposure. The ring effect only lasts 15-20 seconds and fades fast. So the simplest method is to keep the camera settings the same.
I wish I had changed my shutter speed. Most of my diamond ring images are blown out. I am however happy with the modest success I had photographing my first total eclipse.
If your remote doesn't trigger the entire sequence during bracketing, you can set the "countdown" or "interval before" to 2 seconds. Then the remote will trigger the camera, and it will wait 2 seconds then fire the entire sequence. This is my experience on my Sony a7RIV,
Hoping the comet will be visible during totality!
Isn't there supposed to be a Nova visible soon? Do you know what constellation?
Stan, for the wide angle shot with the aperture priority, isn't a solar filter needed before totality?
Absolutely! Take establishing shots of your location during totality, with no filter, but use a filter during the partial phases, then combine the shots in a photo editor afterwards.
Hi, what head is that on your tripod? The one that you show with the thousands oaks film on it . Thanks
The head with the telephoto zoom is a Benro geared head. Very useful and stable.
Is there a way to practice photographing totality? I could spend all day practicing the partial eclipse phases, but I don't know how to even practice for the totality.
No real practical way to practice totality. It's good to practice your set up, making sure you have the equipment you need and it all works. If you are shooting with a telephoto, it's good to see how fast the sun travels through your frame at the focal length you are using (with filter ON). Most critical is practicing taking off the filter, shooting a burst for about 15-20 seconds to get the diamond ring/Bailey's beads, then changing the camera setting for totality. Then doing the reverse for the end of totality. You can do this in twilight when it is not so bright, don't need to aim at the sun to practice your camera settings. Mainly know where the controls are you need and how to change them quickly. Then you can see more of the eclipse with your eyes.
I'm confused about bracketing for shutter speeds. Video refers to F-stops which is bracketing for aperture, right? Also, my camera bracket settings are based on EV. Any clarification appreciated!
1 EV (Exposure Value) is the same as 1 f-stop. So 1 EV difference is 1 f-stop. f-stop can be used as a measurement of light, as discussed in the video. The difference between f4 and f5.6 is 1 f-stop of light. The difference between 1/500 sec and 1/250 sec is 1 f-stop. The difference between ISO 400 and ISO 800 is 1 f-stop. You can use the +/- 4 f-stop range to talk about any of the 3 camera settings. But in the eclipse example, changing shutter speeds is the best method.
I live 2.5 hrs from totality.Its the WEATHER. In northern New Hampshire 😢 it is a crap shoot at that time of year.
I booked a motel already which will put me 7 miles from totality. All the hotels and inn's were already booked in the path of totality for 3 New England states in January. I'm Optimistic.
Good luck from another New Hampshirite. I have my fingers crossed for the location I chose in Maine - I'll drive up early and hope for good weather.
should i still do the bracketing mode if i chose a wide angle shot to capture the eclipses totality along with either sky, or a foreground shot, or possibly time lapse> And would I still need to use a solar filter if I did a time lapse/wide angle? I assuming so. My main concern for a shot with a foreground is that itll be too high up in the sky over the trees and horizon. ( my wide angle lens is a 35mm Sigma Art, my other is a Canon 75-300mm with a R6)
You can do the bracketing mode with a wide angle lens if you want. Following the outline in the video, you will get longer exposures to get more of the corona and more foreground details. You could just change the shutter speed to 5-6 stops more exposure during totality and skip the bracketing mode. Yes, you will need the filter for the partial phases of the eclipse. Remove the filter just before totality. 35mm is not very wide, especially on a crop sensor camera. Look up the eclipse info to see the altitude of the sun/moon and compare to the field of view of your lens. It's possible you could shoot a vertical photos to get foreground and the eclipse.
If you have never shot an eclipse with two cameras, I highly recommend just using one, especially if this is your first total eclipse.
i only have once camera so thats not a problem, I've seen most say to use bracketing mode during totality and I think I can make a custom button to click during totality so it is simpler and faster. I already bought my solar filter for my 35mm so I'd hate to get another and change my mind but now knowing there is a comet visible possibly will make me have fomo on not using my zoom lens.I prbably will go vertical tho Thanks@@StanHonda-bn7tk
Hello. I am newer to photography. When you say remove the filter that’s the solar one right? Because I thought not having a solar filter would damage the camera. Or is it ok to remove when it’s its totality.
Yes, it is ok to remove the solar filter just during totality. You should place it back on the lens at the end of totality.
Totality is also the ONLY time that it is safe to look at the eclipse without wearing eclipse glasses!
Sam, just want to confirm you're still at F8 in this example. Thanks!
Depends on your equipment. f8 may work fine for you. I was using f11 in many examples in the video since that is what I used for that eclipse.
@StanHonda-bn7tk - I'll be using a Sony A7iii with a Tamron 150-500, but wanted to use ISO400 f8. Is it safe to assume that I can follow your guidance and just double the exposure times? i.e. ISO400 f8 1/1000 for partials, diamond ring, same just remove the filter, and then bracket 9 shots +/-1 x9 shots set at 1/60. When I just go out and shoot the sun it seems that my best exposure for ISO400 f8 is 1/400, not 1/1000 - why would there be so much difference between your settings and mine? I'm not worried about the partials or totality, but I want to hit the diamond ring and you only get a few seconds, no time to adjust.
My equipment and filters may be different than yours. It's good you are going out to determine YOUR starting point. I use the Thousand Oaks Optical SolarLite film. Your settings are not far off, just over a 1 f-stop difference. Try using ISO 640, if you get a good frame at 1/500 sec, you will be fine. Your mid-point shutter speed for the bracket mode would be 1/30 sec. (9 frames is +/- 4 stops). My recommendation did not say to double the exposure time. You need much more exposure, 4-6 stops more to record more of the corona.
@@StanHonda-bn7tk - - Thanks Stan, yes I’m using the thousandoaks solar film as well, and I’m sure I’ll have no issue with partial phases and corona since there will be time to adjust. I was mostly worried about the diamond ring and beads since they are so elusive. Like you, I’d rather be able to stay with one setting and shoot, shoot, shoot. I can do a 9 shot bracket, or 3, but I just feel that will limit how many shots I can get during this few seconds. There’s a bit of delay one bracketed series to the next - I could just go continuous with one setting.
@@doplinger1This video may help: ruclips.net/video/7HQ9kL4C5yA/видео.html Yes, keep the same setting for the partial phases with filter on for the diamond ring/Bailey's beads transition. Don't do any bracketing at this point. At full eclipse when you can see the corona with your eyes, then switch to bracket mode.
The ND filter 15.6 stop is good for do this job.? Thanks
That’s my question too.
Nd filter 20 stop will be much safer
I have used a #10 welding helmet lens in 2017 and it worked great. Will be using again on the 8th.
I do not recommend using the thousand oaks filters. I have a full aperture solarlite polymer filter and my shutter speeds where very slow during the last annular eclipse. My exposures were 1/10-1/50th F10 ISO 640. Luckily I bought some baader astrosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8. This film is NOT viewing safe, but allows much faster shutter speeds. I was able to photograph the last annular eclipse handheld with the baader photo film with exposures of 1/5000 - 1/6400 F10 ISO 100. If you want a viewing safe film I would get the baader astrosolar SAFETY film OD 5.0 over the thousand oaks film. It blocks a little less light.
I have a Nikon Z6II with a 100 to 400 with a 2x teleconverter, I would be afraid to take the filter off during diamond ring portion of the eclipse.
This seems to say it's ok, just don't want to destroy my camera.
The diamond ring/Bailey's beads lasts for about 20 seconds or so, to brief to do any damage to your sensor. Take off the filter when the sun becomes a very thin crescent. Put the filter back on when the moon just starts to move off the sun's face, you will notice this happening.
Ok, thanks, great!@@StanHonda-bn7tk
1hr and 38 min to explain this?
Stan, you have a Windows 11 upgrade pending...but I wouldn't do it. Stay on 10.
Thanks, I have avoided the upgrade. Win 10 seems fine for now.
Savorinen and greetings to all science journalists around the Earth.
On April 8, 2024, Mexicans and Texans may have a chance to make history and scientifically prove the current atomic model wrong.
The so-called Allais Effect may be a real phenomenon, but in such a way that it does not always occur during a solar eclipse.
It would be about how close to the center of the Earth the line between the center of the Sun and the center of the Moon intersects the center of the Earth.
That is, how close the alignment of the Sun, the Moon and the Moon’s shadow passes the center of the Earth.
The closer, the stronger the phenomenon.
If so, scientific experiments should always be done when a total solar eclipse occurs at noon and near the equator.
The April 8 solar eclipse is pretty much exactly at noon in Mexico, I believe, and the area is much closer to the equator than the North Pole.
Ok, there is a lot of pressure in the center of the Earth.
I assume that massive and dense particles originating from the center of the Earth are pushed out of the Earth all the time, and on April 8th they are pushed through the area shadowed by the Moon directly towards the Moon and the Sun.
They meet particles corresponding to the countersphere, which originate from the Sun and the Moon.
During straight alignment, these particles have time to push through the corresponding particles again and again.
During the pushing through of each opposing particle, there is a strong interaction and thus the energy in the particles is dispersed over a larger area and the probability of encountering the next one increases, etc.
Pushing through the moon also activates these particles. Inside the moon, this small-scale energy moves more densely and inside these particles, etc.
Pushing towards the moon, these particles already have time to activate more than normal, because they encounter particles that have already penetrated the moon and activated inside the moon.
Physicists are already planning a new particle accelerator at Cern. Its price is estimated at around 20 billion euros.
On April 8, anyone can do scientific experiments very cheaply.
For example, local tennis clubs could use devices that launch tennis balls.
First, the device is adjusted to fly the balls as far and accurately as possible.
So it’s not necessarily worth trying to make the balls fly just as far as possible, if you can’t make the balls fly quite precisely the same distance, you know.
Ok, when we find out how far the balls fly with a certain power on average normally, we wait for the Solar eclipse and when the Moon’s shadow starts to reach the area, we start sending tennis balls into the air and monitor how far the balls fly.
Perhaps a surprise will be experienced during the exam.
You should fly the balls in at least two different directions. From north to south and from south to north.
The more distinct groups, the better.
Everyone should also think about some other scientific experiments that can be done in connection with the so-called to gravitation.
Traditionally, experiments have been done with pendulums and gravity measuring devices. You should also use them.
If someone has ready these small rockets that don’t aim for orbit, but only test how high you can get, then maybe during the solar eclipse it would be interesting to try if you can maybe even get much higher than you could assume based on the calculation in advance.
Ps. If the solar eclipse occurs in June, then I assume that it is worth doing these experiments even if the eclipse is closer to one of the polar regions than the equator and even if it is late evening or early morning.
This is because then the Earth is in the area between the Sun and the supermassive object in the center of the galaxy.
Perhaps from the center of the galaxy there is also a kind of matter / energy that physicists do not yet understand.
At least that’s what I assume.
That is, these supermassive objects in the centers of galaxies may emit dark matter as separate condensations that are much denser than the separate condensations in the nuclei of the atoms of the observable matter.
The denser, the slower the internal motion / time and the less these dark matter particles would interact with observable matter.
In June, when the Earth is in the area between the Sun and the center of the galaxy, these dark matter particles inside the Earth would meet the energy from the Sun in the opposite sphere and thus their internal movement / time would speed up and the interaction with the Earth’s matter would intensify.
I assume that the Earth gets new matter in its center in June when these dark matter particles collide in the center of the Earth with the nuclei of the Earth’s atoms.
Could the Earth even get new water molecules in its center?
That is, would new solid matter, but also new water and gas molecules, be born in the center of the Earth?
If so, perhaps the researchers should observe that more water and gas molecules escape from the Earth than estimated.
Greetings to all Mexicans and Texans. Also for all those who have the opportunity to participate in scientific experiments on April 8.
April 8, 2024 may be a very significant day for humanity, but it may not be so without you🙂
❤️