Great edit man, I struggle to get the shaft to pull back in like yours do, it’s something I fluked once building the RDX stock shocks, is the trick to stop threading the top cap halfway, push in the shaft then fully tighten like you did? How you finding the load transfer setup?
Yes that’s how you have to bleed diaphragm shocks for the feel you want. I’m doing the load transfer myself and figuring out what works best on this chassis.
@shredcraftrc exaaactly, man i re build my shocks every couple months just to keep them clean and never have an issue. Just bought another set and no issues😅👌
I'm having issues. Using blue orings they just leak out after a few sessions. I've used green slime and everything. Only shocks I've ever owned that have been like this. I have a set of Tamiya trf shocks I built 10 years ago that still have their rebound.
Yokomo Big bores are junk. The shaft guides are sloppy and the internal surface is rough. They are the worst aluminum shock I've ever built. Even yokomo plastic shocks are far smoother and less sloppy
I saw it now. You put it on after you set the O-ring on the shaft. Which is too late in my book. I coat the rings in grease before I put them on the shaft. The threads on the shaft can cut the ring otherwise. Everything else looked spot on. Great video, keep them coming!
@@flatlander7288that’s why I titled this how I build shocks, I see most people build the lower cap and push the piston through the assembled o ring and shaft guide. I never had an issue and as I always say, shocks are subjective for your car.
@@flatlander7288 I never let the o-rings touch shaft threads. I use a small plastic cylinder you can find on some artist paintbrushes in the craft store. Simply slide it over the shaft threads and then slide the o-rings on the shaft. That way the o-rings are never in contact with the shaft threads at all.. ;-)
Like butter😮
Keeping it smooth! 🤙
I just picked up a set of these in purple for my rdx. Keep up the awesome drift content.
Awesome! Will do! I have a new chassis for the RDX coming out soon!
Good stuff sir … that curved ball cup is genius learn something everyday
Glad to share some ideas!
Nice bro!
The ReveD o rings work well in the yoks
They actually advertise them to suit the yok big bores
Nice editing too BTW
They sure do 🤙
Keep coming back to this videos for rebuilding shocks. Curious if you have experimented with different rebound settings like shaft lengths.
Na haven’t seen a need to change anything they work fine, drift cars on a smooth surface don’t need too move too much.
@@shredcraftrc got ya. I guess tuning for asphalt concrete layouts are a bit of a challenge.
I just turn the preload up when I run outside, no need to overcomplicate anything.
Where did you get your oils from? Cant find any 50 cst. Lowest i can find is 100 cst. Thanks for all the good tips
I got mine at my local track/hobby shop, you can checkout SuperG they have everything drifting related. 100 will be fine.
Are you doing a load transfer style tune ? With the high bat and the spacers on the front nuckle ?
Yup, that’s the plan!
ReveD red o-rings vs Yoko blue o-rings?? Trying to eliminate some of the sticking with Yoko big bores(O- rings lubed with green slime).
Red ones have worked fine for me, these are from my RDX kit.
I'll try those next..also gonna try some aftermarket shaft guides@@shredcraftrc
Red Reve d o rings are money good luck finding some seem to sold out everywhere
@@Brevdrift gotta buy an RDX to get em these days!
I thought you were going to use the vacuum pump and talk about how adjusting settings affects the car haha
No vacuum pump needed, settings are so subjective for individual chassis and weight, everyone will run different setups for their track surface.
Great edit man, I struggle to get the shaft to pull back in like yours do, it’s something I fluked once building the RDX stock shocks, is the trick to stop threading the top cap halfway, push in the shaft then fully tighten like you did? How you finding the load transfer setup?
Yes that’s how you have to bleed diaphragm shocks for the feel you want. I’m doing the load transfer myself and figuring out what works best on this chassis.
@@shredcraftrc thanks buddy, will try that on my toplines I have bought for the rdx 👍🏻
I dont understand how people have problems with these shocks🤣
Right, it’s a super simple design.
@shredcraftrc exaaactly, man i re build my shocks every couple months just to keep them clean and never have an issue. Just bought another set and no issues😅👌
@@Jacobp_RC yup, never really seen anyone have problems with them, hence why they’re my go to.
I'm having issues. Using blue orings they just leak out after a few sessions. I've used green slime and everything. Only shocks I've ever owned that have been like this. I have a set of Tamiya trf shocks I built 10 years ago that still have their rebound.
Yokomo Big bores are junk. The shaft guides are sloppy and the internal surface is rough. They are the worst aluminum shock I've ever built. Even yokomo plastic shocks are far smoother and less sloppy
Your poor O-rings. Where is the O-ring grease?
It’s in the video! I literally put it on, and threaded it on the shaft, my fingers were oil when assembled so I might not have typed that.
I saw it now. You put it on after you set the O-ring on the shaft. Which is too late in my book. I coat the rings in grease before I put them on the shaft. The threads on the shaft can cut the ring otherwise.
Everything else looked spot on. Great video, keep them coming!
@@flatlander7288that’s why I titled this how I build shocks, I see most people build the lower cap and push the piston through the assembled o ring and shaft guide. I never had an issue and as I always say, shocks are subjective for your car.
@@flatlander7288 I never let the o-rings touch shaft threads. I use a small plastic cylinder you can find on some artist paintbrushes in the craft store. Simply slide it over the shaft threads and then slide the o-rings on the shaft. That way the o-rings are never in contact with the shaft threads at all.. ;-)
@@bakko9302 that’s some artisan style effort right there.