I know the Team Reved driver in Japan runs about 2 deg of toe, he said it gives him faster steering response for competitive driving which I believe is true. I normally run 1 deg on all my cars but lately I've gone back to running 3 deg as it helps alot with Front motor cars, (i would run less on rear motor) it does feel like it provide much more lateral grip on throttle.
Toe plus or minus equals drag. When you have a 12” wide tire a few degrees can mean seconds lost. Learned that from wrenching on a 1:1 race car. Dial in just enough to make the car stable and no more.
Slippa’s are good every where except when you see old men wearing them at the beach in their “Speedo thongs”. That just burns a hole in my brain! 😝🤯 Great video Troy! Makes total sense to me to have the rear tires squared up for faster times , as the tires have more surface area on the ground putting much of that power to a bigger contact patch on the ground . Should allow you to pull tighter turns but with some possible steering consequences exiting the turns. As long as you can correct it coming out smoothly it should be quicker in my mind, but with more input needed. With the bottom of the tires kicking out and the tops leaning in, there seems to be a bit less contact but wi more control up front which might explain better accuracy. This was an awesome test Troy. You always got the best experiment videos!👊🏼👍🏻😋
Tried 0° toe myself. The chassis felt more on the edge and spinning out was a lot more frequent than with default toe in (about 2/5 chance with 0 vs 3 in 100 laps with default)
Plz link somewhere if you have another video getting maximum traction out of the rds, I like drifting fast as well and this car is so much slower than my dc10. If you do I probably watched it and don't remember 😅
Hi there! There is more in your RDS for sure. Mine makes my DC10 look SLOW. I don't think there is 1 specific thing I did that made the most difference. It is just the accumulation of all the small changes. Here is the playlist of all of the changes. See what stands out: Redcat RDS: ruclips.net/p/PLzanpL0DCFXy8ndybTvqk96SYkV0njFpI
@@RoadsideRC absolutely it would take ages trying ever ° lol. Might just give you a little more predictability and stability if you find a happy medium between 0° and 1.1° and still maintain speed. Just my brain trying to squeeze every bit of tuning out of the car haha
I feel like toe in on the rear helps me on slicker surfaces and hurts me when I get more traction for some reason it’d be interesting to learn more about the dynamics
Toe in on the front steering wheels keeps a car darty right? So that could be a plus when steering is involved due to geometry. So if rear is toe'd in, it wants to go straight but also less traction when the car turns because the direction of the tires are fighting against each other, in which the inside wheel wins since its pushing outwards, thus easier oversteer(drifting)? I'm also trying to understand cause it seems like rocket science in my head😅
"As the rear toe angle increases, the vehicle gains stability, but it doesn't lose speed. For this, for example, the rear toe angle can be set to 1° while not making the front toe-out angle too extreme. For instance, I use a rear toe angle of 1.5° and a front toe-out angle of 2°. However, to make the vehicle exit corners faster, my rear linkage points are different. In this way, I achieve both speed and stability. Just the rear toe angle is not enough. The front toe-out angle is also a factor that affects speed. In fact, many factors need to be adjusted together at the correct values to achieve stability and speed in the vehicle."
I’m having problems with reconnecting my transmitter to my receiver! Any suggestions? It’s the exact yd2 rtr yokomo ! I had to factory reset my transmitter just fyi!
@@RoadsideRC I’ve tried to do what the manual says…. It stats the receiver will blink as well as the transmitter but only the transmitter blinks but makes 3 blinking sounds and continues to blink, as for the receiver it blinks for 10 seconds and stops. I’ve tried holding the bind button and even letting it go after completing the instructions and seeing if it’ll connect that way… any help from that information?
The good news - that price range allows you MANY options. 1) Futaba 4PM 2) Flysky Noble 3) Radiolink RC8X If you plan to use a Futaba gyro, then there is some value in pairing it with the Futaba radio. Otherwise, you basically pick your preference. The good news - there are MANY radios out there in 2024 that cover ALL of the basic needs any drifter would need.
Can you please Convert your Cheap lightning AWD rc drift into a RWD drift car.? Cause we have a lot of friends there that buy a cheap awd chassis and convert it to rwd because they cannot buy an rwd chassis. Thank you so much in advance.
I did look into this actually...A LOT. Here is the truth: it would have cost me more to convert it to RWD (properly) than it would cost to buy a RWD chassis. You can get the Sakura D5 and the Redcat RDS chassis for less than $150.
@@RoadsideRC i'm actually from Philippines. And i don't know where i can buy a Redcat RDS in that price. Rwd ec drift chassis here is too expensive. So sad.
Interesting I have found the opposite on my chassis rmx with mb rear suspension. Toe in goes faster, but I find the car ends up too far inside some times. 0 toe the car is slower but easier to get the car to the outside of the corner. There is no real difference in stability.
I have tried to quantify drift setups before, but I found it hard to get reliable results. Drift setup is very subject as well I found testing 2 different setups while chasing a consistent driver to be a much better test. On full size drift car toe in should give more forward aceleration wiel on Throttle relative to the car, not the direction of travel.
Lap times is an easy way to measure the impact of a chanceon the car setup. Grip and speed are VERY important in drifting, especially when trying to tandem with others and in comps.
You will find RWD drifting is rather slow. Slick surface + slick tire = slower speed. In fact, we actually change the surface and tire to make them SLOWER sometimes. Too fast is actually a bad thing.
Super interesting! Can't wait to see your new alignment settings video with all the new RDS upgraded parts!!!
Thanks! I have not done that yet - but it is on the list!
Find myself watching your content more and more, love all the information you give in all your videos 💪
Thank you for that vote of confidence!!
Love these kind of tuning vids Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
hello @RoadsideRC have you seen the newly release 1/24 RWD kit by Onishiki "Kodama".the kit look slick.tryin to get my hand on those kits.
I did see those! They look pretty nice!
Hey, no judgement on the footwear. It’s low 70’s where I’m at and we wear “slippahs” everywhere. Socks not a requirement but get some folks that do.
Ha! Yes sir!
I know the Team Reved driver in Japan runs about 2 deg of toe, he said it gives him faster steering response for competitive driving which I believe is true. I normally run 1 deg on all my cars but lately I've gone back to running 3 deg as it helps alot with Front motor cars, (i would run less on rear motor) it does feel like it provide much more lateral grip on throttle.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing.
I do imagine this changes a lot based on a person's specific car setup, driving style, and track.
Toe plus or minus equals drag. When you have a 12” wide tire a few degrees can mean seconds lost. Learned that from wrenching on a 1:1 race car. Dial in just enough to make the car stable and no more.
That makes sense to me!
Slippa’s are good every where except when you see old men wearing them at the beach in their “Speedo thongs”. That just burns a hole in my brain! 😝🤯 Great video Troy! Makes total sense to me to have the rear tires squared up for faster times , as the tires have more surface area on the ground putting much of that power to a bigger contact patch on the ground . Should allow you to pull tighter turns but with some possible steering consequences exiting the turns. As long as you can correct it coming out smoothly it should be quicker in my mind, but with more input needed. With the bottom of the tires kicking out and the tops leaning in, there seems to be a bit less contact but wi more control up front which might explain better accuracy. This was an awesome test Troy. You always got the best experiment videos!👊🏼👍🏻😋
Thank you!
No slippas for me at the beach!
@@RoadsideRC 😝
Tried 0° toe myself. The chassis felt more on the edge and spinning out was a lot more frequent than with default toe in (about 2/5 chance with 0 vs 3 in 100 laps with default)
Yes - I agree. To run the zero toe, your setup and electronics needs to be right-on.
Good vid
Thanks!
Nice job with the info you share .. am guilty of also watching to spy on the 71 Chevelle/Malibu lol
Thanks!
Dont forget the look :D I just builded my RMX2.5s. The manual uses a lot of tow in, but that looks awful.
Personal preference for sure!
Plz link somewhere if you have another video getting maximum traction out of the rds, I like drifting fast as well and this car is so much slower than my dc10. If you do I probably watched it and don't remember 😅
Hi there!
There is more in your RDS for sure. Mine makes my DC10 look SLOW.
I don't think there is 1 specific thing I did that made the most difference. It is just the accumulation of all the small changes.
Here is the playlist of all of the changes. See what stands out:
Redcat RDS: ruclips.net/p/PLzanpL0DCFXy8ndybTvqk96SYkV0njFpI
Thanks that is a great help with tuning. Very useful. How about if you went 0.10°.
Ha! I clearly skipped doing all of the intermediate angles. I would be there for days.
@@RoadsideRC absolutely it would take ages trying ever ° lol. Might just give you a little more predictability and stability if you find a happy medium between 0° and 1.1° and still maintain speed. Just my brain trying to squeeze every bit of tuning out of the car haha
I feel like toe in on the rear helps me on slicker surfaces and hurts me when I get more traction for some reason it’d be interesting to learn more about the dynamics
Common theory is that toe-in helps with traction - so I was surprised by my results.
Toe in on the front steering wheels keeps a car darty right? So that could be a plus when steering is involved due to geometry. So if rear is toe'd in, it wants to go straight but also less traction when the car turns because the direction of the tires are fighting against each other, in which the inside wheel wins since its pushing outwards, thus easier oversteer(drifting)? I'm also trying to understand cause it seems like rocket science in my head😅
You just need to try it for yourself and see! One thing we know for sure - you do NOT want toe-in on the front.
Is the OMG V4 Gyro and OMG D2-18S Server good for an MST RMX 2.5? I can't find any videos on RUclips.
Those are not frequently used. I have also not personally used them, so can't help here. Sorry.
Any thoughts on if you can get the speed back while having it toed in so you have both speed and stability?
Yes! There are multiple things that impact speed.
1) camber
2) rear weight bias
3) total weight
4) shock setup
5) driving style
"As the rear toe angle increases, the vehicle gains stability, but it doesn't lose speed. For this, for example, the rear toe angle can be set to 1° while not making the front toe-out angle too extreme. For instance, I use a rear toe angle of 1.5° and a front toe-out angle of 2°. However, to make the vehicle exit corners faster, my rear linkage points are different. In this way, I achieve both speed and stability. Just the rear toe angle is not enough. The front toe-out angle is also a factor that affects speed. In fact, many factors need to be adjusted together at the correct values to achieve stability and speed in the vehicle."
Thanks for sharing!
😎😎👍👍
I’m having problems with reconnecting my transmitter to my receiver! Any suggestions? It’s the exact yd2 rtr yokomo ! I had to factory reset my transmitter just fyi!
You need to rebind it. The manual says how to.
@@RoadsideRC I’ve tried to do what the manual says…. It stats the receiver will blink as well as the transmitter but only the transmitter blinks but makes 3 blinking sounds and continues to blink, as for the receiver it blinks for 10 seconds and stops. I’ve tried holding the bind button and even letting it go after completing the instructions and seeing if it’ll connect that way… any help from that information?
@@tg6323 I'm sorry - I am limited in how much help I can be via text. Sorry.
I know it’s not related to this video but I have 200 to 300 pound what transmitter would you recommend for mid range also maybe video ideas 😂
The good news - that price range allows you MANY options.
1) Futaba 4PM
2) Flysky Noble
3) Radiolink RC8X
If you plan to use a Futaba gyro, then there is some value in pairing it with the Futaba radio.
Otherwise, you basically pick your preference. The good news - there are MANY radios out there in 2024 that cover ALL of the basic needs any drifter would need.
I’m sure I know the answer but why not try toe out? I’m new so I’ll stick to toe in for now😅
Toe-out was a trick on AWD cars. Would make them VERY snappy.
Can you please Convert your Cheap lightning AWD rc drift into a RWD drift car.?
Cause we have a lot of friends there that buy a cheap awd chassis and convert it to rwd because they cannot buy an rwd chassis.
Thank you so much in advance.
I did look into this actually...A LOT.
Here is the truth: it would have cost me more to convert it to RWD (properly) than it would cost to buy a RWD chassis.
You can get the Sakura D5 and the Redcat RDS chassis for less than $150.
@@RoadsideRC i'm actually from Philippines. And i don't know where i can buy a Redcat RDS in that price.
Rwd ec drift chassis here is too expensive. So sad.
What about rear camber
A whole different subject! Simple answer: get as much contact patch ad possible.
I too am an old man, with feet.
Great content!!!!! Data!!! Results!!! Knowledge!!!! Skill!!! Thanks I'll see myself out.
Ha! Glad to hear it. :)
Interesting I have found the opposite on my chassis rmx with mb rear suspension. Toe in goes faster, but I find the car ends up too far inside some times. 0 toe the car is slower but easier to get the car to the outside of the corner. There is no real difference in stability.
Interesting! How have you quantified it? I used lap times to show it, but what you are describing is more of an acceleration effect.
I have tried to quantify drift setups before, but I found it hard to get reliable results. Drift setup is very subject as well I found testing 2 different setups while chasing a consistent driver to be a much better test. On full size drift car toe in should give more forward aceleration wiel on Throttle relative to the car, not the direction of travel.
What about drift angle? I even run below 1° rear toe although a lot o stock settings are btw 1-2,5°
@@gianpaolomiraglia5418 Drift angle is set more with front suspension alignment.
It may be faster, but for the most part lap times are not important in drifting, IMO.
Lap times is an easy way to measure the impact of a chanceon the car setup.
Grip and speed are VERY important in drifting, especially when trying to tandem with others and in comps.
now this is really interesting mate
*👍like☑full view✅💯Au😎🦘*
Thank you!
feels like 0 toe also transitioning faster
I agree - much more nimble.
NGL, every single one of those cars looked painfully slow around that track.
You will find RWD drifting is rather slow. Slick surface + slick tire = slower speed.
In fact, we actually change the surface and tire to make them SLOWER sometimes. Too fast is actually a bad thing.
Did you ever try RC RWD Drift on the track ???
Small track too, but they looked too slide at a decent pace