I love the little shutters of any scale and especially so with n scale. Seeing something so tiny move under under its own power is really impressive. I actually just ordered the bachmann version of this off eBay the other day since the one I had before had the chassis broken in half.
The biggest reason you are having pick up trouble is because you appear to be missing one of the metal draw bar pieces that allow the tender to provide contact from both rails. I saw only one of these pieces on your model when you separated the tender from the engine. Originally the plastic draw bar was sandwiched between two thin , silver pieces that were shaped the same as the draw bar. Given the small foot print of these models, having dual rail tender pick up went a long way to improving their performance. You might consider fashioning a new piece from .005 brass sheet .
You need to show us SPECIFICALLY how you put dcc in this thing. There are a lot of people who would love to grasp ahold of that information is there is little-to-no article on how to put DCC in literally one of the smallest steam locomotives in N scale
Do you know if a Rivarossi Mikado purchased in 1980 but not run on a layout since 1985 can be restored? It does not run now. Does it just need to be cleaned and lubed? If it needs more than that, what trouble spots should I look for?
Thank you for answering. I've never taken an N scale engine apart, but I figure if I get a good work surface, made with a rim so small parts can't roll off onto the rug, and dig up some light oil and a couple of screwdrivers, and watch as many RUclips videos as I can find on the subject, I"ll have nothing to lose, because right now, that beautiful Mike is good for nothing more than a model park display with chain link fencing around it! Yuck! That thing was really beautiful when it chugged along, three decades back.
I think you have the right idea. Sometimes you find broken parts inside that are not available for purchase, but a lot of stuff can be fabricated if you have some patience and creativity!
the PRR had I-1s class 2-10-0's post war some were rebuilt to I-1sa with improved tractive effort. i have serveral older Minitrix I-1s those that I've had to remoter I've numbered as I-1sa rebuilds
I won't ask you to encroach on any endorsement issues, but this video gave me an idea.... Do you think *that* particular motor would fit (with mods of course!), in the old Athearn BB SW7? That looks like it runs incredibly smooth! Especially at crawling speeds. Also, and I'm truly shocked that I never came across this... What exactly IS a "coreless" motor??? I've never used them, and really don't have enough knowledge to start messing with really expensive stuff!! Is it like Brushless? There's no field wire, only + and -, so I know it's not exactly.... Do you have a clue? Thanks, Carmine 🚂
Hi, Please can you link to the new motor product? I need to replace 4 of my nscale locos that have these rivarossi motors and they are all burnt out from years of use.
Hi Eitienne, We generally do not refer people to specific distributors, as that would be an implicit endorsement. You can probably search on Google for a "faulhaber Coreless Can Motor for N Scale locomotive" and find a place to buy it.
Oooh, I love those adorable little things and I've got one that runs pretty damn well right now. But ya'll's method for extracting the worm won't help me solve the one issue mine has :|. My motor...still the factory original...runs fairly smoothly in forward. But, the front bushing is worn right out, so reverse is wonky and it gets stupidly noisy from time to time. I have a spare can, magnet, bushing assembly that's practically brand new in my junk drawer from an 0-8-0 I repowered, but I need to be able to get the worm off my shaft *without* mutilating it to swap cans over and get my 0-4-0 running properly in reverse.
I had the same troubles you had with the worm using the same puller you're using here, but my solution was a bit different. First I put the hex end of the puller shaft in a drill and spun the working end against a fine flat file, lightly milling the end down to the right size. Next I heated the brass worm with a lighter before trying to pull it from the shaft, and the puller worked great. Oddly enough, this was for a re-motor project of mine on an 0-4-0 as well except my project was for a Bachman Dockside. Here is a video of a test I ran of the completed new motor: ruclips.net/video/mAmWqVsouRg/видео.html
I love the little shutters of any scale and especially so with n scale. Seeing something so tiny move under under its own power is really impressive. I actually just ordered the bachmann version of this off eBay the other day since the one I had before had the chassis broken in half.
My gramps gave me this engine in H.o scale, mine smoked too and it didn't have a smoke unit as well turns it's the motor so this was cool to see
great tips Dan and John
I Have one of these still engines still running interesting rebuild
Super cool and very interesting! :-)
Any good options for replacement traction bands for a Rivaroossi c.1975 0-40- model 2185
Where did you purchase the motor from?
The biggest reason you are having pick up trouble is because you appear to be missing one of the metal draw bar pieces that allow the tender to provide contact from both rails. I saw only one of these pieces on your model when you separated the tender from the engine. Originally the plastic draw bar was sandwiched between two thin , silver pieces that were shaped the same as the draw bar. Given the small foot print of these models, having dual rail tender pick up went a long way to improving their performance. You might consider fashioning a new piece from .005 brass sheet .
You need to show us SPECIFICALLY how you put dcc in this thing. There are a lot of people who would love to grasp ahold of that information is there is little-to-no article on how to put DCC in literally one of the smallest steam locomotives in N scale
You can see step by step on the video: tsgmultimedia.com/product/n-dcc-installs-volume-3-blu-ray/
OK......now I got to wait.....great....My first N scale Loco was the Smokey Job by Aurora in 1967, still got it...somewhere. Bob
Do you know if a Rivarossi Mikado purchased in 1980 but not run on a layout since 1985 can be restored? It does not run now. Does it just need to be cleaned and lubed? If it needs more than that, what trouble spots should I look for?
The answer is almost always yes. You need to evaluate it because no two will need exactly the same work.
Thank you for answering. I've never taken an N scale engine apart, but I figure if I get a good work surface, made with a rim so small parts can't roll off onto the rug, and dig up some light oil and a couple of screwdrivers, and watch as many RUclips videos as I can find on the subject, I"ll have nothing to lose, because right now, that beautiful Mike is good for nothing more than a model park display with chain link fencing around it! Yuck! That thing was really beautiful when it chugged along, three decades back.
I think you have the right idea. Sometimes you find broken parts inside that are not available for purchase, but a lot of stuff can be fabricated if you have some patience and creativity!
Can you do an Ho steam locomotive motor swap?
the PRR had I-1s class 2-10-0's post war some were rebuilt to I-1sa with improved tractive effort. i have serveral older Minitrix I-1s those that I've had to remoter I've numbered as I-1sa rebuilds
It has the look and feel of a Pennsylvania locomotive
It is actually a B&O prototype
Also this particular model if I’m not mistaken came blank when it was new and it came with a bunch of decals so you could brand it however.
I won't ask you to encroach on any endorsement issues, but this video gave me an idea....
Do you think *that* particular motor would fit (with mods of course!), in the old Athearn BB SW7? That looks like it runs incredibly smooth! Especially at crawling speeds.
Also, and I'm truly shocked that I never came across this...
What exactly IS a "coreless" motor??? I've never used them, and really don't have enough knowledge to start messing with really expensive stuff!!
Is it like Brushless? There's no field wire, only + and -, so I know it's not exactly....
Do you have a clue?
Thanks, Carmine 🚂
I replaced my Mantua 0-4-0's original motor with an MC-94.
the axle bushings are DONE that need to be replaced XD
Hi, Please can you link to the new motor product? I need to replace 4 of my nscale locos that have these rivarossi motors and they are all burnt out from years of use.
Hi Eitienne,
We generally do not refer people to specific distributors, as that would be an implicit endorsement. You can probably search on Google for a "faulhaber Coreless Can Motor for N Scale locomotive" and find a place to buy it.
Well performance would be even better if you had not cut off the second shaft and add a small flywheel instead.
Oooh, I love those adorable little things and I've got one that runs pretty damn well right now. But ya'll's method for extracting the worm won't help me solve the one issue mine has :|.
My motor...still the factory original...runs fairly smoothly in forward. But, the front bushing is worn right out, so reverse is wonky and it gets stupidly noisy from time to time. I have a spare can, magnet, bushing assembly that's practically brand new in my junk drawer from an 0-8-0 I repowered, but I need to be able to get the worm off my shaft *without* mutilating it to swap cans over and get my 0-4-0 running properly in reverse.
I had the same troubles you had with the worm using the same puller you're using here, but my solution was a bit different. First I put the hex end of the puller shaft in a drill and spun the working end against a fine flat file, lightly milling the end down to the right size. Next I heated the brass worm with a lighter before trying to pull it from the shaft, and the puller worked great. Oddly enough, this was for a re-motor project of mine on an 0-4-0 as well except my project was for a Bachman Dockside. Here is a video of a test I ran of the completed new motor: ruclips.net/video/mAmWqVsouRg/видео.html
I think its pronounced fallhaber 😛
Sorry, can't watch. My OCD is just triggering watching you butcher that poor 0-4-0.