It's always great listening to experienced modelers explain the their techniques. Especially liked the explanation of running under address '00'. Cheers, Jim L
I bought a early 90s era Kato UP SD40 but I didn't know it had an aftermarket decoder installed, and whoever installed it made a rats nest mess out of it. Since I don't do DCC, and I have no way to "reset" the thing, I opted to remove the decoder. In doing so, I noticed the person who installed the decoder also cut the tabs off the motor that makes contact with the frame halves, to electrically isolate it from the frame. So what I would like to know is: will any Kato motor for 6 axle units work, or is there a specific type of motor I need to buy? Thank you in advance for your advise.
Thanks for this repair video! If you have time to answer I am hoping for advice. I recently bought a used N scale locomotive. The engine pulls nearly full speed even when power supply is barely on. At this time I don't have any other engines to troubleshoot what is causing the issue, but am planning on getting a second engine soon. What is your advice for testing issue, and repairing? Thanks for your content!
I would love to help, you can contact me via Email sfwarbonnet11@gmail.com lets start with the basics make and model of the locomotive, system your operating with, DC or DCC, and your test setup. This will help me to figure out the direction we will go. Hope I can help, Dave
Great video but I have one question. Where do you buy replacement brushes and springs for Kato motors? I can't find them listed on kato USA website. I am in Australia and can't find any down here. Thanks.
Sorry it took so long to answer, they were ordered by my local hobby shop direct from Kato USA. They do come in and out of stock. The part number used in this video is common to a great many Kato locos so they will eventually come back in stock. Good hunting, Dave Ramirez Warbonnet Trains
Not knowing what kind of loco it is or what your running it with, this is all that I could think of, if its non DCC it could be that the mechanism is binding, or that the motor wire has broken off one of the motor leads. If its an older steam loco it may have an older 3 pole motor and is stuck between poles and just needs a little nudge to get it moving. If it is a DCC loco maybe wrong address, or the decoder was glitched and needs a reset. With a little more info maybe I could help you better. Have a good one.
@@WarbonnetTrains Bachmann Industries ALCO 2-6-0 PRR 3234 Steam Locomotive Car. This is the name it’s dcc ready. It was a very nice running engine. I noticed the bottom plate was loose and took it off and seen two nuts on an axle fallen out of place. It was now run in reverse only
Wow and thats not Enough I felt like I was in the Classroom listening to the Awesome teacher and subject for the Day was how to Run a Model Railroad in the most proper of Ways.. We need our Educators in this Hobby and Sir you got my Vote.! On my RDA N Scale I run both DC and DCC and in your mentioning dont Run your Trains to long in length, you can for sure tell this just by pulling with you finger on a Freight I usually use a flat car how hard the pull is and strain its going to inflict, my Question is you mentioned Running 2 to 3 engine's can help with the Weight of the pull to add to my ? if 1 or all 3 are running different speeds say I'm running 3 SD40-2 KATO'S geared the same 2 are running slightly faster than the 1 how do I set up the Consist of Engines so the 1 isn't being over powered and do I need a more powerful DC controller currently for DC I'm using a MRC 1370 controller.. my Layout is totally flat it sets on 4X8 picnic table.. To see my Layout Please visit my La Junta Hutch & Pratt mini Sub Div.. RDA N Scale Thanks for the Video you put out & Sorry for Loss..
First sorry it took so long, but here's my two cents, if there is just a slight difference on locomotive speed, I put the faster loco on the train, then the slower locos ahead of it. Here is my theory, the train will dramatically slow the engine enough where the slower locos can properly give assistance pulling. Now with that said, if the faster loco is still pushing on the lead locos even with the load of the train on it, then the speed difference is to great to run them together. Now on the other hand, if the faster loco is in the front it not only has to pull the train, but the slower locomotives as well. If it holds traction, that is a large load to bear, more than likely it will loose traction and spin the wheels. Hope this helps, Dave Warbonnet Trains
Thanks Dave I Verry much appreciate you getting back with me with What where still putting up with the covid I forgot to reply back to ya myself this stuff gets to much in everybody's hair and makes forget things but im trying to do better and just Run my Trains, And I got a New NCE SB5 just before Thanksgiving its doing OK but I done a boo boo I accidentally threw one of my KATO Unitrack Turnouts while cleaning my Track and I plugged in 🔌my SB5 & on initial hook up the Booster didn't act like there was an issue I left for about 5 minutes to help assist on something for My Mom which has a hard time getting Around and when I returned it was trying to reset i got it shut down reset the Turnout and checked my tracks my Buss Line checked out ok my Engine which at the time of the miss hap was my Atlas Gold Series Santa Fe GP39-2 with ESU Lok Sound which Atlas mentions has Overload & short Circuit Protection built in it was ok so I replugged in the SB5 reset the command station & reset the ProCab and it seem to be ok but I wonder if there was anything internally hurt 🤔 it didn't warp or melt the plastic on the SB5 it was luke Warm to the touch just after unplugging the Booster do you think sir it could've sustained any Damage. Want to Add: when I plug it the Light function as Normal so does it's Power Supply.. Thanks for Reading this Allen RDA N Scale
It's always great listening to experienced modelers explain the their techniques. Especially liked the explanation of running under address '00'. Cheers, Jim L
Glad to have you back Dave....sorry to hear about the deaths in the family....great video
Always enjoy your info video Dave, glad you are back, hope to see more. Bob
It's awesome to hear from you again. Thanks for sharing, this was really informative video. Thanks for teaching us.....Wilmer
Do love my Kato locos,,great info on the motors,sorry for your family losses
A fine presentation. informative and concise. Thankyou.
Very informational , thanks I learned alot, sorry to hear about your losses
Great video Dave well done!
Great information !!!!! would love more information on none dcc locomotives and possible conversion to dcc
I bought a early 90s era Kato UP SD40 but I didn't know it had an aftermarket decoder installed, and whoever installed it made a rats nest mess out of it.
Since I don't do DCC, and I have no way to "reset" the thing, I opted to remove the decoder. In doing so, I noticed the person who installed the decoder also cut the tabs off the motor that makes contact with the frame halves, to electrically isolate it from the frame.
So what I would like to know is: will any Kato motor for 6 axle units work, or is there a specific type of motor I need to buy?
Thank you in advance for your advise.
Wow this is a awesome video thanks so much for sharing very very informative,,,,this can be carried over to ho scale,,,,Ken
Thanks for this repair video! If you have time to answer I am hoping for advice. I recently bought a used N scale locomotive. The engine pulls nearly full speed even when power supply is barely on. At this time I don't have any other engines to troubleshoot what is causing the issue, but am planning on getting a second engine soon. What is your advice for testing issue, and repairing? Thanks for your content!
I would love to help, you can contact me via Email
sfwarbonnet11@gmail.com lets start with the basics make and model of the locomotive, system your operating with, DC or DCC, and your test setup. This will help me to figure out the direction we will go.
Hope I can help,
Dave
Great video but I have one question. Where do you buy replacement brushes and springs for Kato motors? I can't find them listed on kato USA website. I am in Australia and can't find any down here. Thanks.
Sorry it took so long to answer, they were ordered by my local hobby shop direct from Kato USA. They do come in and out of stock. The part number used in this video is common to a great many Kato locos so they will eventually come back in stock. Good hunting,
Dave Ramirez
Warbonnet Trains
My steam endings ran fine yesterday today it won’t move. The headlight comes on but that’s it. Any ideas?
Not knowing what kind of loco it is or what your running it with, this is all that I could think of, if its non DCC it could be that the mechanism is binding, or that the motor wire has broken off one of the motor leads. If its an older steam loco it may have an older 3 pole motor and is stuck between poles and just needs a little nudge to get it moving. If it is a DCC loco maybe wrong address, or the decoder was glitched and needs a reset. With a little more info maybe I could help you better. Have a good one.
@@WarbonnetTrains Bachmann Industries ALCO 2-6-0 PRR 3234 Steam Locomotive Car. This is the name it’s dcc ready. It was a very nice running engine. I noticed the bottom plate was loose and took it off and seen two nuts on an axle fallen out of place. It was now run in reverse only
Nicely presented.
Wow and thats not Enough I felt like I was in the Classroom listening to the Awesome teacher and subject for the Day was how to Run a Model Railroad in the most proper of Ways.. We need our Educators in this Hobby and Sir you got my Vote.! On my RDA N Scale I run both DC and DCC and in your mentioning dont Run your Trains to long in length, you can for sure tell this just by pulling with you finger on a Freight I usually use a flat car how hard the pull is and strain its going to inflict, my Question is you mentioned Running 2 to 3 engine's can help with the Weight of the pull to add to my ? if 1 or all 3 are running different speeds say I'm running 3 SD40-2 KATO'S geared the same 2 are running slightly faster than the 1 how do I set up the Consist of Engines so the 1 isn't being over powered and do I need a more powerful DC controller currently for DC I'm using a MRC 1370 controller.. my Layout is totally flat it sets on 4X8 picnic table..
To see my Layout Please visit my La Junta Hutch & Pratt mini Sub Div.. RDA N Scale Thanks for the Video you put out & Sorry for Loss..
First sorry it took so long, but here's my two cents, if there is just a slight difference on locomotive speed, I put the faster loco on the train, then the slower locos ahead of it. Here is my theory, the train will dramatically slow the engine enough where the slower locos can properly give assistance pulling. Now with that said, if the faster loco is still pushing on the lead locos even with the load of the train on it, then the speed difference is to great to run them together.
Now on the other hand, if the faster loco is in the front it not only has to pull the train, but the slower locomotives as well. If it holds traction, that is a large load to bear, more than likely it will loose traction and spin the wheels. Hope this helps,
Dave
Warbonnet Trains
Thanks Dave I Verry much appreciate you getting back with me with What where still putting up with the covid I forgot to reply back to ya myself this stuff gets to much in everybody's hair and makes forget things but im trying to do better and just Run my Trains,
And I got a New NCE SB5 just before Thanksgiving its doing OK but I done a boo boo I accidentally threw one of my KATO Unitrack Turnouts while cleaning my Track and I plugged in 🔌my SB5 & on initial hook up the Booster didn't act like there was an issue I left for about 5 minutes to help assist on something for My Mom which has a hard time getting Around and when I returned it was trying to reset i got it shut down reset the Turnout and checked my tracks my Buss Line checked out ok my Engine which at the time of the miss hap was my Atlas Gold Series Santa Fe GP39-2 with ESU Lok Sound which Atlas mentions has Overload & short Circuit Protection built in it was ok so I replugged in the SB5 reset the command station & reset the ProCab and it seem to be ok but I wonder if there was anything internally hurt 🤔 it didn't warp or melt the plastic on the SB5 it was luke Warm to the touch just after unplugging the Booster do you think sir it could've sustained any Damage.
Want to Add: when I plug it the Light function as Normal so does it's Power Supply.. Thanks for Reading this
Allen RDA N Scale
Should be labeled advanced