I don’t ever comment on videos rarely but I gotta say this video was so informative and well done thank you so much!! I seriously just felt I went through an entire days or month long class in less than 5minutes keep up the good work
I've been watching how to videos for over 15 years and consider myself a professional in all subjects. You sir, I believe know what you're talking about. Very nice.
How come nobody uses vibration to make the bubbles rise and to help level? I strapped one to the leg of the table I was working on and during the pour itself. I saw my bubbles rise , break and fill in without having to use heat and causing wind that might stir up dust. I just put a couple of rubber bands to hold it. After the pour (2min.) I put some cloth around the massager till the vibes were hard to distinguish.. Checking a couple of times saw nothing.Coverd the table with a clean cheesecloth supported above the surface to keep bugs, hair and dust off. Watched a lot of videos and no one mentioned using these very helpful steps in my opinion.
It all depends on the wood, pour and application. We've heard of vibrating tables but never tested it ourselves. Ecopoxy Flowcast is great for bubbles!
Vibration reduces the issue but doesn't get rid of the problem with bubbles. You still need to apply all the other mitigating factors (seal the wood so it doesn't outgas, torch surface bubbles, manually check for trapped bubbles). But in case of a DIY melamine board & silicone form, the vibration does increase the chance of a leak, and increases the spill rate through any leak. Vibration also depends on the mass of the object you're vibrating, and is much simpler to achieve for objects with smaller mass. So vibration is nice to have for small one piece molds, but not really necessary.
I'm being asked to make an epoxy Island with cool cherry wood I have. So if I use Rubio on the top I dont need to sand the epoxy above 180 grit!?? And it will be come out like this video with no sanding swirls? That will save time. Is Rubio food safe? Thanks!!
Great to find some useful content on this subject however, I would have to ask...how do you calculate how much epoxy resin is required for any job big or small.
great video, very useful to a beginner like myself Also noticed that all tables i see are quite deep in regards to pour, is it not possible to do a 2" pour table?
You could get away with 2" depending on the epoxy you use. We have pushed flowcast to 2" but you need the perfect shop temps and pour size. You really risk an exothermic reaction at that thickness!
@@jeffmackdesigns hi and ty for answering so promptly, the reason i asked is that i have a 4 ft x 6ft table and would probably look out of proportion with a 4" pour
Very helpful video thank you! Do you have a video on embedding objects into a tabletopsuvh as small knives/swords? I wish to make a tabletop featuring Sting from lord or the rings/Hobbit.
I used to do empoxy flooring and found an intrest in this hobby i was wondering is there a website and or classes perhaps you recommend for begginers i need more practice in shaping the wood for the process
Jeff, Just found your channel. Beautiful!!! There are so many videos and varying artist’s commentary’s, I appreciate all the guidance. I am preparing an “attempt” to make a charcuterie board (River style). I am going to use wood material a bit less than 1” thick. I also hope to embed “carved” wood items I made in the pour. So… I have a few questions I hope you can help me with. I have purchased a few different types of epoxy, or so the product states. Names or types such as “Art”, “Table Top”, and “Deep pour”. The only type that specified pour depth “spec” was the deep pour. I have watched enough videos to get an understanding about table top products being 1/8” or a bit less. The guys that make pendants and such rarely pour anything over an inch thick. Similarly, the huge river tables always use “Deep pour” products. 1) Regarding choice of resin type: The pour will be 1” or less. Is there a specific “type” of epoxy for pours 1” or less? 2) Do I need to seal the wood material (all around)? Should I use “deep pour” product to seal the wood? 3) I want to embed a 1/2’’ thick wood carving in the “River”… Is there a technique you recommend? I do expect to make some River board and tables, but I doubt there will be pours deeper than 2” in my future. Mostly 1-1/2” and less. Best regards,
I'm about to build an outdoor bench, narrow and long - about 58x16 - with inverted live edge for a river run epoxy through the middle. I figure the best way to keep it 4 seasons weatherproof is to have a layer of epoxy over the top. Early in your video I see the epoxy pours and a lot of it is covering the top of the wood. Are you removing all that epoxy with the planing and sanding? Because if you aren't then I'm confused as to why you use the oil coat at the end, which would seem to be good for wood, but is it good for epoxy too? And if I really just want coverage so it stays waterproof, do I really need to do the planing?
We tend to flood our pieces for a few reasons. It helps stabilize the wood once it absorbs some epoxy, and also for processing. It levels and becoms flat which makes it easier to cnc after. For a bench, you would want to do a flood coat. For 4 season durability there may be better products than epoxy. It will turn yellow from UV rays over time. UV Poxy is best for withstanding Uv rays but clear epoxy will always turn yellow in the end.
@@jeffmackdesigns That's good to know, thanks. I don't know what else to use other than epoxy. I suppose if it turns yellow that isn't so bad, but I'll see if I can research a UV epoxy or some other type of treatment.
Most of our videos cover all kinds of tips and tricks for beginners to learn and get started with woodworking and epoxy. An up front investment will always depend on what you're looking to achieve. You could start with little projects or jump all in and buy machinery, large slabs and gallons of epoxy (which we don't recommend). Best of luck!
Could you please help me understand how much capital (including the raw materials and tools) is expected while starting this business for SKUs like Small and Large Tables and some handy artifacts, clocks and other basic stuff.
I have a 5" thick piece of cedar I'd like to make into a coffee table....what is the thickest piece of wood do you suggest ? ....for a beginner...like this my first time 😳😬......🧑🏭 me welder
Are you supposed to have run them through a jointer/planer? I have a piece of rough wood that I cleaned up and am using that in a mold. What all needs to be done on a piece of wood?
Depends on your final outcome. All of our pieces are debarked and processed before setting in epoxy but the finish sanding and flattening happens after. They're typically around 80 grit before placing them in a mold, but this can always vary.
I've wanted to do a table but I can't get my ahead around the cost of the epoxy. Maybe some advice on projects sizes leading up to big table and larger investment.
So we need to build a table a coffee table on the outside border of it I wanted to make regular what style and the center I want to put wine corks since I am going to be making it as an ad about the bottom part is going to be a wine barrel half of it, which is gonna be holding the coffee table you guys have any ideas of how can I do it? Do I still need to get a mold about the same size.
You can order reusable molds like this on our website here: jeffmacksupply.com/collections/empire-molds-guaranteed-for-life/products/one-piece-resin-molds-black-edition
We normally go up to 180 and sometimes up to 220 grit. When using an oil finish, the higher you sand to, the less protection you get. For example, on flooring, they normally only sand to 120 grit to get more protection.
Yes that is something you could do! Heat tends to warp epoxy as you cut if you plan on ripping pieces on a table saw so keep that in mind. It can be done!
I’m curious if you think this would work as it’s something I really want to do. I want to make an epoxy table like this out of a few of my old, beat up skateboard decks preserving the graphic on the bottom as the top of the table
@@BigDawg588 10 months later and I’m revisiting this idea. I have enough decks now that I can try this on something small like an end table. I’ll post something on it if it goes well
Depends on the application. We have very large forms that allow us to put dividers in for custom sizes, but most of the time yes. The most recent thing we did for a 14" river table was silicon and seal off our work bench and block off the ends.
Hoy vamos a compartir todos los consejos y trucos que hemos aprendido después de hacer cientos de mesas de epoxi y madera. El primer paso es quitar toda la corteza y limpiar el borde vivo hasta que expongas la madera de albura. Aquí estamos usando un cincel y un martillo debido al perfil de la tabla. También puedes usar un cuchillo de sierra si el borde vivo es bastante recto y no redondeado como este trozo. Después de limpiar las tablas, puedes recortarlas al tamaño que necesites. Estamos usando una sierra de riel y una sierra de inglete para hacer estos cortes. Hay otros métodos para recortar. Bajamos las tablas, pero encontramos que esto es lo más fácil y rápido para este vertido. Estamos usando pegamento caliente y silicona para mantener la madera en su lugar. También puedes usar abrazaderas y bloques de sujeción de HDPE. La idea es tener un 70 por ciento de madera y un 30 por ciento de epoxi al decidir el diseño de las losas. Es hora de mezclar un poco de pigmento; estamos usando polvo de castor violeta azul. [Música] Tomamos notas en cada proyecto sobre cuánta cantidad de pigmento y epoxi se usó para poder replicar ese color en el futuro si otro cliente lo solicita. Selecciona una resina adecuada para tu proyecto. A menudo, tenemos clientes que compran una resina más barata en Amazon y luego se encuentran con problemas porque el epóxico no era de buena calidad o estaba diseñado para poros de mesas de un cuarto de pulgada de profundidad. Después, tienen el reto de conseguir soporte al cliente de epóxico en Amazon. Lo mejor es comprar epóxico de empresas que también lo utilizan, así pueden responder tus preguntas y ofrecerte apoyo si lo necesitas. Para este vertido, estamos usando Ecopoxy Flow Cast; están vertiendo en un... Los moldes prehechos nos parecen mucho más eficientes que hacer el tuyo propio, además, los moldes prehechos eliminan el riesgo de fugas, lo cual puede ser costoso y estresante. Vigilamos nuestra mezcla durante las próximas horas para asegurarnos de que todo se vea bien. Las cosas a las que prestamos atención incluyen asegurarnos de haber vertido suficiente epoxi; a veces el epoxi se absorbe en la madera y en huecos que no puedes ver. No quieres que el epoxi se hunda por debajo de la superficie de la madera; si eso pasa, tendrás que mezclar más. otro lote de epoxi para rellenar tu molde. Mantén un ojo en los pedazos sueltos de madera o escombros flotando en el epoxi y sácalos con pinzas o un palito de helado. Quieres revisar y asegurarte de que no haya filtraciones, especialmente si construiste tu propio molde. Asegúrate de que tu mezcla no se esté calentando demasiado; si empieza a calentarse, agarra un ventilador y dirígelo sobre la mezcla para ayudar a disipar el calor y lograr una mejor curación. Los epoxis de curado profundo tardan alrededor de tres días en curarse. Podrás saber si está listo. listo para desmoldar presionando con la uña en la epoxi; si no puedes presionar tu uña en la epoxi, ya está listo para sacarlo del molde. Es hora de aplanar tu pieza. Usamos una CNC porque tenemos una en el taller, pero hay otras alternativas como usar una cepilladora o un enrutador con una base. Para proyectos realmente pequeños como una tabla de servir o posavasos, puedes empezar directamente a lijar con lija de 40 si la madera y la epoxi están casi al mismo nivel. Al retirar la pieza curada del molde, recortamos la pieza a. "Para el tamaño, al usar nuestra sierra de pista en piezas más pequeñas, puedes usar una sierra de banco o una sierra de inglete. Lijar tu pieza es uno de los pasos más críticos en los que la mayoría de la gente se apresura o comete errores importantes. Algunos puntos clave al lijar: asegúrate de no saltarte ningún grano. Nos gusta lijar con grano 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 150 y luego 180. Tómate tu tiempo con cada grano; no es una carrera y hacerlo más despacio te dará mejores resultados. Añadimos un detalle en los bordes en todas nuestras piezas usando una fresadora." Solo usaríamos una lijadora para aplicar el detalle del borde, pero encontramos que era inconsistente. Algunos de los perfiles diferentes que nos gusta incluir son un redondeado de 1/8, un redondeado de un cuarto de pulgada o un bisel de 1/8 para un look más moderno. Para esta mesa, optamos por el bisel de 1/8. La mesa está lista para un acabado al aceite; usamos Rubio Monocoat Pure en todos nuestros proyectos de madera y resina. Es fácil de aplicar y se ve genial, es un acabado perfecto tanto para principiantes como para profesionales. Usamos una rasqueta para esparcir el acabado de aceite por la superficie. De la pieza, también puedes usar una almohadilla blanca y una lijadora/búfer para trabajar el aceite en la pieza. Tenemos un video completo en RUclips explicando cómo terminar una mesa de epoxi y madera, y puedes verlo aquí. Ahora, cuéntanos qué tipo de contenido quieres ver a continuación; queremos experimentar un poco con contenido de negocios, así que si tienes preguntas sobre negocios, avísanos. Y no te olvides de darle like y suscribirte.
We've got a few videos that have included objects. One that stands out would be our custom golf table ruclips.net/video/PeBZFup2AA0/видео.htmlsi=fGnwoBb30e0OGE5v
We sell pre made molds but do not take custom size orders. You can purchase an oversized mold and use HDPE dividers to achieve custom dimensions though! empiregoods.com
It is usually the weakest point when considering bonding epoxy to wood. You really want to get the bark out of the way and let the resin soak in to the sap wood. If you leave the bark on, it's highly likely to fail. Stay safe!
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been really wanting to get into epoxy tables and this was a perfect introduction I appreciate your content Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I don’t ever comment on videos rarely but I gotta say this video was so informative and well done thank you so much!! I seriously just felt I went through an entire days or month long class in less than 5minutes keep up the good work
That’s awesome to hear! Thank you so much for the feedback!! We appreciate it!
I ALMOST HAD AN ORGASM WATCHING THIS VIDEO. MY GOD THAT'S WHAT IM GONNA DO FOR MY KITCHEN COUNTERTOP
Hello, this is the first video of yours that I have watched and I loved it. The tips are very helpful and the pieces you create are amazing ❤
Thanks for watching! We appreciate the support!
Fantastic end to end tips here! So much gold!
Thanks guys! Appreciate the support!
Very informative, detailed video for beginners like myself. I appreciate it and I have subscribe and will recommend your channel to others. Thank you.
I've been watching how to videos for over 15 years and consider myself a professional in all subjects. You sir, I believe know what you're talking about. Very nice.
I have been wanting to do this for a few years.... Im nervous to even start and I dont have all of these tools.
Thank you
great video thanks. Can I ask where you buy your molds please?
Temu has some for cheap!
@@zemyawhite666thx
How come nobody uses vibration to make the bubbles rise and to help level? I strapped one to the leg of the table I was working on and during the pour itself. I saw my bubbles rise , break and fill in without having to use heat and causing wind that might stir up dust. I just put a couple of rubber bands to hold it. After the pour (2min.) I put some cloth around the massager till the vibes were hard to distinguish.. Checking a couple of times saw nothing.Coverd the table with a clean cheesecloth supported above the surface to keep bugs, hair and dust off. Watched a lot of videos and no one mentioned using these very helpful steps in my opinion.
Vibration doesnt help if the air comes from the wood
Makes more 🫧 bubbles
It all depends on the wood, pour and application. We've heard of vibrating tables but never tested it ourselves. Ecopoxy Flowcast is great for bubbles!
Thanks. I will try that
Vibration reduces the issue but doesn't get rid of the problem with bubbles. You still need to apply all the other mitigating factors (seal the wood so it doesn't outgas, torch surface bubbles, manually check for trapped bubbles). But in case of a DIY melamine board & silicone form, the vibration does increase the chance of a leak, and increases the spill rate through any leak.
Vibration also depends on the mass of the object you're vibrating, and is much simpler to achieve for objects with smaller mass.
So vibration is nice to have for small one piece molds, but not really necessary.
I'm being asked to make an epoxy Island with cool cherry wood I have. So if I use Rubio on the top I dont need to sand the epoxy above 180 grit!?? And it will be come out like this video with no sanding swirls? That will save time. Is Rubio food safe? Thanks!!
Great video. I’m looking to make a dyi cutting board. Where do you get the forms?
Great video, Seems like you actually understand what you're talking about.
This is the best table video I’ve ever seen! Where do you guys purchase your molds?
Great to find some useful content on this subject however, I would have to ask...how do you calculate how much epoxy resin is required for any job big or small.
Looks great. Chamfer is what the "bevel" is called.
Can you put links to the tools and products you guys use in the description? 🙏
great video, very useful to a beginner like myself
Also noticed that all tables i see are quite deep in regards to pour, is it not possible to do a 2" pour table?
You could get away with 2" depending on the epoxy you use. We have pushed flowcast to 2" but you need the perfect shop temps and pour size. You really risk an exothermic reaction at that thickness!
@@jeffmackdesigns hi and ty for answering so promptly, the reason i asked is that i have a 4 ft x 6ft table and would probably look out of proportion with a 4" pour
Great tips here Jeff!
Thanks Lucas! Appreciate the support!
@@jeffmackdesigns anytime!!
Very helpful video thank you! Do you have a video on embedding objects into a tabletopsuvh as small knives/swords? I wish to make a tabletop featuring Sting from lord or the rings/Hobbit.
Great video I would like to start doing some Apoxsee pores where do I get the premade molds?
You are a good instructor.
Where did you get that white tub to put the wood in with the epoxy? And what material is it made out of? Just plastic?
I wish I had equipment like yours. My dream table is a round, breakfast apoxy table. How much are they from your company?
Really want to get into this
Thank you sooo much for making this video!❤😊
You are so welcome!
You make it look so easy!
I used to do empoxy flooring and found an intrest in this hobby i was wondering is there a website and or classes perhaps you recommend for begginers i need more practice in shaping the wood for the process
RUclips videos and some hand tools...Dive in brother
Jeff,
Just found your channel. Beautiful!!! There are so many videos and varying artist’s commentary’s, I appreciate all the guidance.
I am preparing an “attempt” to make a charcuterie board (River style). I am going to use wood material a bit less than 1” thick. I also hope to embed “carved” wood items I made in the pour. So… I have a few questions I hope you can help me with.
I have purchased a few different types of epoxy, or so the product states. Names or types such as “Art”, “Table Top”, and “Deep pour”. The only type that specified pour depth “spec” was the deep pour. I have watched enough videos to get an understanding about table top products being 1/8” or a bit less. The guys that make pendants and such rarely pour anything over an inch thick. Similarly, the huge river tables always use “Deep pour” products.
1) Regarding choice of resin type: The pour will be 1” or less. Is there a specific “type” of epoxy for pours 1” or less?
2) Do I need to seal the wood material (all around)? Should I use “deep pour” product to seal the wood?
3) I want to embed a 1/2’’ thick wood carving in the “River”… Is there a technique you recommend?
I do expect to make some River board and tables, but I doubt there will be pours deeper than 2” in my future. Mostly 1-1/2” and less.
Best regards,
Very, very informative! Thanks!
I'm about to build an outdoor bench, narrow and long - about 58x16 - with inverted live edge for a river run epoxy through the middle. I figure the best way to keep it 4 seasons weatherproof is to have a layer of epoxy over the top. Early in your video I see the epoxy pours and a lot of it is covering the top of the wood. Are you removing all that epoxy with the planing and sanding? Because if you aren't then I'm confused as to why you use the oil coat at the end, which would seem to be good for wood, but is it good for epoxy too? And if I really just want coverage so it stays waterproof, do I really need to do the planing?
We tend to flood our pieces for a few reasons. It helps stabilize the wood once it absorbs some epoxy, and also for processing. It levels and becoms flat which makes it easier to cnc after. For a bench, you would want to do a flood coat. For 4 season durability there may be better products than epoxy. It will turn yellow from UV rays over time. UV Poxy is best for withstanding Uv rays but clear epoxy will always turn yellow in the end.
@@jeffmackdesigns That's good to know, thanks. I don't know what else to use other than epoxy. I suppose if it turns yellow that isn't so bad, but I'll see if I can research a UV epoxy or some other type of treatment.
Beautiful! How much of the powder pigment did you use to get that semi-translucent look? Thanks
Hey, we go with 1/8 of a teaspoon per 1 litre to achieve a medium transparency like this one.
@@jeffmackdesigns Thanks!!
Very informative, thank you!
What are your tips for someone that is starting? What is up front investment? Thanks!
Most of our videos cover all kinds of tips and tricks for beginners to learn and get started with woodworking and epoxy. An up front investment will always depend on what you're looking to achieve. You could start with little projects or jump all in and buy machinery, large slabs and gallons of epoxy (which we don't recommend). Best of luck!
Could you please help me understand how much capital (including the raw materials and tools) is expected while starting this business for SKUs like Small and Large Tables and some handy artifacts, clocks and other basic stuff.
I have a 5" thick piece of cedar I'd like to make into a coffee table....what is the thickest piece of wood do you suggest ? ....for a beginner...like this my first time 😳😬......🧑🏭 me welder
I wouldn’t pour deeper than 2” thick unless you plan on pouring in layers.
Thanks for this video! What company do you get premade molds from?
You can order the molds on our website www.JeffMackSupply.com
Awesome vid
Are you supposed to have run them through a jointer/planer?
I have a piece of rough wood that I cleaned up and am using that in a mold. What all needs to be done on a piece of wood?
Depends on your final outcome. All of our pieces are debarked and processed before setting in epoxy but the finish sanding and flattening happens after. They're typically around 80 grit before placing them in a mold, but this can always vary.
@@jeffmackdesigns what do you mean "processed"
Awesome video
I love this!!!
I've wanted to do a table but I can't get my ahead around the cost of the epoxy. Maybe some advice on projects sizes leading up to big table and larger investment.
I'm assuming the hot glue or silicone used on the bottom would be sanded off? Also would a planer work for sanding off layers?
Yep, that would all be removed by either CNC, planer or sanding. We often use a planer on our wood and epoxy projects. A
@@jeffmackdesigns Sweet, Thank you! Currently waiting on a mold from your shop!
@@promnesia343_3 Thank you! We appreciate the business!
Correct! You could definitely run it through a planer to get it to thickness, just make sure the epoxy has fully cured.
So we need to build a table a coffee table on the outside border of it I wanted to make regular what style and the center I want to put wine corks since I am going to be making it as an ad about the bottom part is going to be a wine barrel half of it, which is gonna be holding the coffee table you guys have any ideas of how can I do it? Do I still need to get a mold about the same size.
wow nice one, could you please tell where can I get the mold like this? 2:45
You can order reusable molds like this on our website here: jeffmacksupply.com/collections/empire-molds-guaranteed-for-life/products/one-piece-resin-molds-black-edition
Please make a video on how many tools are required to make a proxy table other projects
i am thinking if it is proper i will be using it for tops and sides only to restore a top of study table?
Sure! Whatever works best for you.
Are y’all able to put drawers on the walnut river desk?
The best and cheapest epoxy Schell from the Netherlands.
We have great results with Ecopoxy, but maybe we'll check them out! Thanks.
About how much do you charge for a table like this? I'm drawing up some estimates now and I just want to see if I'm pulling the same numbers.
If you would like a quote you can reach us at www.jeffmackdesigns.com
So do you only go up to 180 grit then oil finish, would there be any benefit going higher?
We normally go up to 180 and sometimes up to 220 grit. When using an oil finish, the higher you sand to, the less protection you get. For example, on flooring, they normally only sand to 120 grit to get more protection.
@@jeffmackdesigns ohh didn't know that thanks :)
Where can I order custom size molds? I noticed u used a small amt of glue on the wood. How do u keep the epoxy from getting under the wood?
What’s size mold is this and where can I purchase please?
Hi is there any chance you could explain how to know how much epoxy is needed
That premade mold that looks like a tennis racket I have to say I would consider using that
They're pretty efficient!
Have you ever considered in bedding, LED lights in a table like this?
Here is an interesting idea. Can you cut this down and make it so thin that you could spray it on a vehicle?
does the table go in top down or top up into the mould?
We go top up.
Can epoxy resin with wood make a good combination when making photo frames
Yes that is something you could do! Heat tends to warp epoxy as you cut if you plan on ripping pieces on a table saw so keep that in mind. It can be done!
Phenomenal!
What kind of material that white tray where you put two or and pour in the Epoxy to? It does not gluing to that white tray!
So helpful! Can you please provide epoxy and resin and mold supplier name website
Thank you
www.jeffmacksupply.com
I’m curious if you think this would work as it’s something I really want to do. I want to make an epoxy table like this out of a few of my old, beat up skateboard decks preserving the graphic on the bottom as the top of the table
That would be dope!
@@BigDawg588 10 months later and I’m revisiting this idea. I have enough decks now that I can try this on something small like an end table. I’ll post something on it if it goes well
Can you tell me which tree log you are using in it?
What is the white table? You’re using to hold the wood and paint ?
Our work tables are wooden benches with a sheet of HDPE on top!
I saw you have the GEM sander/polisher do you get scratches with it? What grits do you use it for?
Yep, we use our Gem all the time! It’s a great machine. We don’t get scratches with it. We use it for grits 100, 120, 150 and 180
where do you get the white bins you put the wood in?
In which country and city is your workshop? Do you have a showroom.Could you leave more information about your location?
We're based just outside of Toronto, Ontario.
So you’re saying with these huge pours like a kitchen table you’re using premade forms and not self made forms?
Depends on the application. We have very large forms that allow us to put dividers in for custom sizes, but most of the time yes. The most recent thing we did for a 14" river table was silicon and seal off our work bench and block off the ends.
Hello are u guys in California are ❓✌🏼thanks
No we are located in Ontario, Canada!
what happens if doing pour in layers with 1 final large pour do you measure that final pour for the depth
Where do you guys find this kind of wood material. Never seen anything like this at lowes so I'm assuming some kind of mill
Hi, thanks for the question! We have multiple providers we've worked with over the years. They work with local mills and other importers.
Could you please let me know how to fix my wooden legs to my apoxie resin tabel top with out damage my apoxie tabel top please 🙏
You can use a product like this! jeffmacksupply.com/products/universal-mounting-plates?_pos=1&_sid=b0d70761c&_ss=r&variant=42149919719621
where do you get the preset molds from?
What resin and epoxy do you use? Also is this preformed
We have another video on all of the epoxy types we use and when to use them. Check it out here! ruclips.net/video/DlMZro2xbRI/видео.html
Hoy vamos a compartir todos los consejos y trucos que hemos aprendido después de hacer cientos de mesas de epoxi y madera. El primer paso es quitar toda la corteza y limpiar el borde vivo hasta que expongas la madera de albura. Aquí estamos usando un cincel y un martillo debido al perfil de la tabla. También puedes usar un cuchillo de sierra si el borde vivo es bastante recto y no redondeado como este trozo. Después de limpiar las tablas, puedes recortarlas al tamaño que necesites. Estamos usando una sierra de riel y una sierra de inglete para hacer estos cortes. Hay otros métodos para recortar.
Bajamos las tablas, pero encontramos que esto es lo más fácil y rápido para este vertido. Estamos usando pegamento caliente y silicona para mantener la madera en su lugar. También puedes usar abrazaderas y bloques de sujeción de HDPE. La idea es tener un 70 por ciento de madera y un 30 por ciento de epoxi al decidir el diseño de las losas. Es hora de mezclar un poco de pigmento; estamos usando polvo de castor violeta azul. [Música] Tomamos notas en cada proyecto sobre cuánta cantidad de pigmento y epoxi se usó para poder replicar ese color en el futuro si otro cliente lo solicita.
Selecciona una resina adecuada para tu proyecto. A menudo, tenemos clientes que compran una resina más barata en Amazon y luego se encuentran con problemas porque el epóxico no era de buena calidad o estaba diseñado para poros de mesas de un cuarto de pulgada de profundidad. Después, tienen el reto de conseguir soporte al cliente de epóxico en Amazon. Lo mejor es comprar epóxico de empresas que también lo utilizan, así pueden responder tus preguntas y ofrecerte apoyo si lo necesitas. Para este vertido, estamos usando Ecopoxy Flow Cast; están vertiendo en un...
Los moldes prehechos nos parecen mucho más eficientes que hacer el tuyo propio, además, los moldes prehechos eliminan el riesgo de fugas, lo cual puede ser costoso y estresante. Vigilamos nuestra mezcla durante las próximas horas para asegurarnos de que todo se vea bien. Las cosas a las que prestamos atención incluyen asegurarnos de haber vertido suficiente epoxi; a veces el epoxi se absorbe en la madera y en huecos que no puedes ver. No quieres que el epoxi se hunda por debajo de la superficie de la madera; si eso pasa, tendrás que mezclar más.
otro lote de epoxi para rellenar tu molde. Mantén un ojo en los pedazos sueltos de madera o escombros flotando en el epoxi y sácalos con pinzas o un palito de helado. Quieres revisar y asegurarte de que no haya filtraciones, especialmente si construiste tu propio molde. Asegúrate de que tu mezcla no se esté calentando demasiado; si empieza a calentarse, agarra un ventilador y dirígelo sobre la mezcla para ayudar a disipar el calor y lograr una mejor curación. Los epoxis de curado profundo tardan alrededor de tres días en curarse. Podrás saber si está listo.
listo para desmoldar presionando con la uña en la epoxi; si no puedes presionar tu uña en la epoxi, ya está listo para sacarlo del molde. Es hora de aplanar tu pieza. Usamos una CNC porque tenemos una en el taller, pero hay otras alternativas como usar una cepilladora o un enrutador con una base. Para proyectos realmente pequeños como una tabla de servir o posavasos, puedes empezar directamente a lijar con lija de 40 si la madera y la epoxi están casi al mismo nivel. Al retirar la pieza curada del molde, recortamos la pieza a.
"Para el tamaño, al usar nuestra sierra de pista en piezas más pequeñas, puedes usar una sierra de banco o una sierra de inglete. Lijar tu pieza es uno de los pasos más críticos en los que la mayoría de la gente se apresura o comete errores importantes. Algunos puntos clave al lijar: asegúrate de no saltarte ningún grano. Nos gusta lijar con grano 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 150 y luego 180. Tómate tu tiempo con cada grano; no es una carrera y hacerlo más despacio te dará mejores resultados. Añadimos un detalle en los bordes en todas nuestras piezas usando una fresadora."
Solo usaríamos una lijadora para aplicar el detalle del borde, pero encontramos que era inconsistente. Algunos de los perfiles diferentes que nos gusta incluir son un redondeado de 1/8, un redondeado de un cuarto de pulgada o un bisel de 1/8 para un look más moderno. Para esta mesa, optamos por el bisel de 1/8. La mesa está lista para un acabado al aceite; usamos Rubio Monocoat Pure en todos nuestros proyectos de madera y resina. Es fácil de aplicar y se ve genial, es un acabado perfecto tanto para principiantes como para profesionales. Usamos una rasqueta para esparcir el acabado de aceite por la superficie.
De la pieza, también puedes usar una almohadilla blanca y una lijadora/búfer para trabajar el aceite en la pieza. Tenemos un video completo en RUclips explicando cómo terminar una mesa de epoxi y madera, y puedes verlo aquí. Ahora, cuéntanos qué tipo de contenido quieres ver a continuación; queremos experimentar un poco con contenido de negocios, así que si tienes preguntas sobre negocios, avísanos. Y no te olvides de darle like y suscribirte.
I'd really like to see how you do tables that have objects in them, like seashells or rocks.
We've got a few videos that have included objects. One that stands out would be our custom golf table ruclips.net/video/PeBZFup2AA0/видео.htmlsi=fGnwoBb30e0OGE5v
Where did you get the reusable frame
You can order our reusable molds on our website www.JeffMackSupply.com
do you guys sell custom size premade molds?
We sell pre made molds but do not take custom size orders. You can purchase an oversized mold and use HDPE dividers to achieve custom dimensions though! empiregoods.com
where did you bought the molder sir?
They fabricate them with plastic , wood , tape etc
You can order the molds on our website www.JeffMackSupply.com
Make sure the form is level! Learned that the hard way. Lol! I thought my table was level....... i was wrong
Its always handy to keep some of those round flat levels in the shop!
what corrugated plastic sheets do I use to build the molds?
Is there a link where I could get the epoxy and the pre made molds?
I’ve seen the molds sold on Etsy
Sorry for the late reply! You can order epoxy and molds on our website www.JeffMackSupply.com
Where can I buy the molds for a coffee table size
Same question
Dumb question here, but what side will be the top of the table?
Where do you buy premade molds?
We sell our own! www.empiregoods.com
I'd like to see you do a table with bullet shells. How to keep air out of em etc. That would be cool.
I think you could fill your shells before hand. I think that could work well
A great concise video…..As a beginner, this is not a “beginners” video. You’ll need thousands in tools, knowledge, and a workshop to follow.
where is a good place to buy the prefab molds?
They're available here! empiregoods.com
Make a video about costs
Thanks!❤
Glad you got to learn from us!
What material is the box? what material does epoxy not stick to?
HDPE. www.google.com/search?q=what+material+does+epoxy+not+stick+to%3F&ei=jQhuZObsDomF0PEPxfCp0AI&ved=0ahUKEwim5_TP_43_AhWJAjQIHUV4CioQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=what+material+does+epoxy+not+stick+to%3F&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMggIABCKBRCGAzIICAAQigUQhgM6CggAEEcQ1gQQsAM6CggAEIoFELADEENKBAhBGABQ0hBY0hBgshZoBXABeACAAW-IAW-SAQMwLjGYAQCgAQKgAQHAAQHIAQo&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
Can you do a video on how beginners can start using only basic equipments
Added to our notes!
I thougth it was an sop to use. torch to get rid of bubbles you did not do that in this video? please elabortate thanks
You can use a torch or a heat gun.
What if I don't want to trim the bark outside 🤔 ?
For real stubborn bubbles could use pulsed ultrasonics.
That is true!
Don't u need to put a finish on the wood prior to pouring the epoxy to limit bubbles?
You can, but you don't have to. Depends on the type of epoxy being used or how porous your wood is!
So everyone has sake WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR MOLDS?
You can order the molds on our website www.JeffMackSupply.com
@@jeffmackdesigns Thank you 😊
Where do we get a mold that big at least 4 ft.
www.empiregoods.com! They offer a 24x48" mold.
mouth watering, if i can get one near id be well chuffed.
Where is the best place to aquire wood to be used for tables like this
Offerup, Craigslist, the neighbors are a few good choices depending where you live. But I'm in the pnw so it's everywhere.
Can I ask, why do you trim the bark?
The bark will separate from the wood. Removing the bark will ensure the epoxy and wood have a solid bond
@Big27AFROMAN This piece of wood Im going to use is over 8 years cut, the bark is very strongly attached. Will the epoxy cause it to detach?
It is usually the weakest point when considering bonding epoxy to wood. You really want to get the bark out of the way and let the resin soak in to the sap wood. If you leave the bark on, it's highly likely to fail. Stay safe!
where do you find the wood for this?
We have multiple suppliers we've connected with over the years