I went from underneath as per the Honda service manual and all i had to remove was the intake manifold bracket, quick easy replacement, there is no need to go through all of this.
I normally don't make comments on you tube, but I absolutely had to this time. My experience with mechanics has been limited to oil changes, fixing flats and I have changed out my brake rotors and brake pads. On Friday I had an issue that regardless of how much we tried to jump my brand new battery, it just wouldn't start. If not for your video on how to change a starter I would probably be about $800 dollars if not more in the negative right now. Thank you very much for your video and all the step by step instructions you provided. I replaced the starter on Saturday and the car is running better than ever!
YOU ARE THE MAN!!! My 2007 Honda CRV starter went down and what timing right before X-MAS. I always hit up you tube for my car fixes to see if it is something I can do. I am in NO WAY a mechanic but willing to try if I have the tools. Watched your video and said to myself I can do this (I had NO idea were the starter was even located) I did the alternator on the car a couple months ago (watched a youtube video) I can say the alternator was a pain in the A** but I got it done. This video saved me at least 200 to 400. The new starter and the gaskets ran me around 250.00 If I took it to a mechanic the bill would be 400 to 600. Thank you for the video and helping people who are just trying to keep food on the table.
At first I thought of going through the bottom. Initially this method may seem intimidating but let me tell you it is a breeze. Very glad i went this way. Hardest part is removing some stubborn hoses. Once TB is out the manifold comes out a lot easier that in looks in the video. Having a friend's helping hand to grab things it took me a little over 2.5hrs the whole job. Accessing the starter from the top is incredibly convenient. One tip, remove the starter before removing the power cable. Once loose you can tilt it and remove the power cable very easy. Same process back. Great thanks to the video creator!!
Same here Alex... Watched a dozen videos on doing this, both from below and above. Going from below seemed like an exercise in frustration... Finally decided on going from above, mostly because I replaced the steel cooling tube that goes from the thermostat housing to the firewall about a year ago, and changing out the starter required the same process. Finished it up yesterday around dinner time... Don't regret going at it from above. Taking everything out was a pain in the ass at times, but getting at the starter was MUCH easier this way! I still found that I had to remove the air dam/fairing to make it easier to get at the bracket that goes from the engine block to the air intake I highly recommend anyone reading this to bite the bullet and go at the starter from above. One tip... Drain the coolant out of the radiator (there's a convenient valve at the bottom of the radiator) to below the level of the throttle body. You'll avoid a lot of mess (coolant pouring out everywhere) and it just makes removing the coolant hoses a lot less of a hassle.
THE STARTER CAN BE REMOVED FROM UNDERNEATH! It is much easier that way. I will repeat what I read in earlier comments from more knowledgeable people than myself:the only hard part is removing the 14 mm starter back-bolt! You must remove the knock sensor to free up some room and will need a 1 1/16 socket to fo this (pretty sure that is the size) then it is just a matter of getting a socket onto the bolt, you will not be able to see what you are doing, but after a bit you will get it. You will need a decent set of sockets and extensions, but nothing special really. Easy breezy
@@HowtoAutomotive Thank you for that. Is it possible to provide a link? I browsed your videos from around the same time you uploaded this, and also the starter video playlist but couldn't find something for replacing the starter on a CRV from the bottom. Thanks again!
This video was very helpful to me. Thank you. I used this video to get to the heater pipe behind the starter on my 2009 Honda CRV. The intake manifold and attached plastic air chamber were the biggest difficulty I had but I managed to remove and reinstall using this video as a guide. The heater pipe started leaking coolant because Honda used poor quality pipe metal that rusted through the metal leaving 3 pencil lead-size holes. The car only has 79K miles and placed in service August 2010. Once I removed and inspected the rusted heater pipe it had 4 more sections that rust has started to eat through the metal as well. Genuine Honda 07-09 CR-V Heater Pipe 19510-RTB-000 was on national back order and took me 3 weeks to get a new one from eBay. We had four large Honda dealerships in our area and none of them has the part in stock. Once I replaced the heater pipe, I decided to replace the starter because I'm seeing a trend on RUclips that Honda starters usually go bad at the 100K mile mark. The starter replacement was a generic part from AMAZON and only cost a fraction of the OEM version. And since I've already drained the coolant, I decided to replace the thermostat and upper/lower radiator hoses. The manifold and throttle body gaskets are generic from Amazon. For this kind of work I expected to find anti-freeze/coolant and vacuum leaks. No coolant leak but I had a vacuum leak indicated by the engine "idiot" light and an OBDII Code P0171. There were two vacuum hoses that I did not do a good job connecting and securing. Tool note: Vise grip and long needle nose plier for the clamp removal. 1/4 in. drive ratchet and 8 to 14 metric regular and deep sockets, 1/4 universal (swivel) joint extension, and 1/4 drive 3-in/5-in/10-in extensions for the manifold. Liquid soap or detergent to ease the hose installation.
I did the same job about two years ago Ernie (that metal heater pipe that goes from the thermostat housing to the firewall feed hose). At the time, that pipe/part was out of stock worldwide. Figured out that the heater pipe from the Honda Element was about 90% the same and best of all, it was in stock from online Honda parts outlets. The job was intimidating at first, but if you are organized, methodical and watch a RUclips video or two on doing it, things go fairly well. Same goes for the starter replacement... Same steps as the cooling tube replacement and I think it's a hell of a lot easier than trying to route around for the bolt head on that back mounting screw, then contorting yourself to get the starter out. Took me about an hour and half or so to remove everything, then another 30 minutes or so to get the starter out. Re-installation (of everything) took less than an hour, with a lot of it spent wrestling with all the rusted fasteners/hose clamps. It's pretty amazing how much better the new starter works... The car sounded "sick" when you'd go to start it prior to it dying completely (another reason to go from the top, I couldn't run the car up on ramps for better bottom access!). It was an experience... Learned some stuff. Saved a little money. Feel good that I "did it myself".
Just did this repair yesterday. 1. You don't need to Jack up the car at all-very easy to access bracket bolt with extensions. 2. You don't need to completely remove intake manifold just move it the right and the starter is easily accessible.
After watching this video I decided to take on the task of replacing the starter on my 07 crv. Here is what I have learned. 1. watch this video several times and have it ready as you do the work. 2. follow the steps just the way he says. I tried to do some things my way and all I did was waste time. by the way, he is not kidding when he says you have to playing around moving things around to get the manifold out. At first it feels like it is impossible, but believe me, it comes out. Anyways, thanks so much for posting this video. I am saving some money. Last but not least, in case people want to know, I bought my stater at O'Reillys for $135.99 with a $44 core charge. cheaper than advance and autozone. The intake manifold gasket sells for $19.
Glad that you did your own work. But never skimp on parts. The cheap remanufactured parts from the parts stores are junk and only last 1-3 years tops. OEM are ridiculously expensive but will last 10-20 years. Depending on miles driven. I learned this the hard way unfortunately
@@JasonSmith-utube I have learnt that lesson too in the past few years. Fortunately this starter is still working fine, but we don't drive the car that much.
Thank you sooo much for sharing this video. The gut below comment is right on the money. I saw a norther video doing it from the bottom way less stuff came off. BUT after 4 hours of trying to get the last starter bolt off from the bottom I quit and went your way from the top. Beware don't waist your time going from the bottom. The only suggestion I have is drain a little from the radiator and take the top hose off. Manifold come right out then. Thanks Again.
Just want to say thank you! I was able to successfully replace my fiancé's starter following this video. A couple things that might be helpful for anyone else using this video as a guide. - Don't overwork the bolt holding the bottom bracket to the intake manifold. You WILL round it off! I tried to remove it without penetrating oil and a with a cheater bar and it was a big mistake. I had to use a 1/2" bolt extractor to remove it. USE PENETRATING OIL! - You don't need to fully remove the intake manifold. Just move it as far as you can to the side. You will be able to access the starter. - Once you get the intake manifold out of the way and you're starting on removing the starter, be aware of the bolt securing the electrical connection. I found this bolt extremely difficult to remove with the tools I had. There's a metal coolant line which blocks anything but the shortest sockets and the collar around the bolt prevents a regular wrench from fitting. I had to pull the starter partially out to get that bolt off. - The bolts holding in the starter are extremely difficult to remove. Use lots of penetrating oil. I ended up having to go in through the bottom to get enough torque with a breaker bar. If I have to do this again, I'll probably try just going from the bottom instead of pulling out the intake manifold.
I went from below to get my old stater off. Got it off, got the new one on. Spent 6 hours trying to get the back bolt threaded. It's in position, just won't screw in. Now I'm contemplating going from the top just to get the bolt.
I found the video extremely helpful to replace the starter on my daughter's 10-year old CR-V. I negotiated the price of a rebuilt starter down to $150 at my local parts store, plus another $25 for the gaskets. It would have cost many times that at a Honda dealership. My daughter mentioned over a year ago that the car was starting more and more slowly. I replaced the battery as that was several years old, but the car still started the same. About a year later it gave up the ghost. I got it home by whacking the starter body with an 18" long form stake that I could feed up the access hole for the radiator drain valve. It kicked over with my daughter holding the key in the start position while I poked the starter from below. Once it started, I drove it home to my garage and proceeded to follow your directions. In the Honda service manual, it directs the mechanic to remove the lower plastic shield and work the starter replacement from below. Yeah, right ...
I tried going from under, and could not for the life of me get the rear starter bolt. Don't even attempt it unless you have an angled socket wrench. Going from above and this helpful walkthrough were massive time savers. THANK YOU
The starter on a 2007 Crv is easily removed from under the vehicle. Remove the knock sensor and unbolt the starter. No need for additional work or gaskets.
Rick Taylor I did one from underneath recently and it went well and did one two days later and the bolts would not budge so I had to take the intake off anyways. I do look forward to filming it from underneath though. Thank you for writing.
Don't know about easily..... But no worries about induction leaks removing the starter from the bottom. Did my son's starter from the bottom this afternoon. Followed the procedure in the shop manual. The shop manual does not mention removing the knock sensor but I don't see how it's physically possible to get the top starter bolt out without removing it. It a clearance issue. Disconnect the battery for safety reasons. Jack up the car to give yourself some room to work. Remove the bottom plastic shroud by popping a bunch of plastic push pins. Remove the "bitch bracket". NOTE - if you remove the plastic shroud and use a long extension(s) and it's not a bitch bracket. Actually very easy. Remove the bottom starter bolt (17 mm). REMOVE THE KNOCK sensor - if you have a 3/8" breaker bar you MIGHT get lucky. Otherwise just remove the sensor. WARNING - Now is time when you will fully understand why your local mechanic wanted to charge you hundreds of dollars to change the starter!!! Remove the top bolt (14 mm) - This is an extended bolt. You only have to go back about 4" from the end of the starter to get to the head of the bolt. By now you might be second guessing yourself and wishing you removed the intake manifold. Too late! You've in too deep. Power through it. I used a 1/2" breaker bar (to crack the top bolt) connected to a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to a 3/8" - 14 mm deep socket. The total length of the 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and the 17 mm deep socket was exactly 5" long. You will understand later why I'm giving you this measurement :) Once you crack the bolt you can use a 1/2" ratchet to loosen the bolt. Once the top bolt is removed you may have to tap the starter with a mallet to break it free. Turn the starter to gain access to the two cables connected to the starter. Disconnect both wires/cables. Follow these steps in reverse to install the new starter. So the top bolt is the show stopper using either method. Everything else is straight forward. THIS IS NOT A 30 MINUTE JOB!! So make sure you don't need the car for a few hours (assuming the problem was intermittent) It took me a total of five hours from start to finish to change the starter on the 2007 CR-V. My 1997 Jeep TJ took 30 minutes! Gotta love old school!
Thank you for the great addition to this clip. I need this job done soon on my 09 CRV. I'm leaning toward the underneath approach since it seems to involve less dismentle and parts. When you stated "REMOVE THE KNOCK sensor - if you have a 3/8" breaker bar you MIGHT get lucky. Otherwise just remove the sensor.", did you mean to take the sensor cable + plug out or to screw the sensor unit out from the engine?
Your instructions were spot on! I just replaced my starter this morning per your instructions and it wasn't difficult at all. The hardest part was removing the starter bolt with the shank on it. It took me an hour to get it out because I was using hand tools. I used a lot of PB Blaster on the bolt and tried to work it on the threads. Once the bolt came out, it was slightly crooked! Good thing I bought new fasteners from Honda.
Great instructional! I just replaced ours in three hours. I'm not a mechanic, either. This was very helpful. The hardest part was getting the intake manifold out. Oh, and I broke the electrical connection to the starter (that screw holding the terminal to the starter). I basically punched a hole in the old starter. Haha. That nut is very hard to get to. You can probably pull the starter out a little way and get to the nut easier. That's what I did on the reinstall. I bolted the terminal, then installed the starter. Pow! Thanks again for the video. A+!!
Thank you for the video. It is smart and straightforward, and if the viewer follows your method, they will be able to do this job. I would like to add a couple of things I learned from doing this today, not because your instruction is lacking anything, I just personally like to see as many relevant tips from viewers as possible, when attempting a repair. 1: Like alfredobrown says, "follow the steps just the way he says"- which I did, right up to the point where you said to leave everything attached to the throttle body when removing it. I found it difficult to maneuver the throttle body with the hoses attached, so I removed them, and I thought about removing the electrical connector too, but decided against it (good decision), just know that the hoses are coolant lines so don't be surprised when some coolant leaks (especially later when removing intake manifold and you have to squeeze radiator hose to maneuver it) just plug them after you remove them. 2: The bracket you reference at around 5:45 in the video, (I'll call it the bitch bracket) I found out, as you did, is much easier to remove from the bottom,(I didn't raise the car though, and it was not ideal, but doable) from my experience, I would definitely say remove the bitch bracket first BEFORE unbolting the intake manifold, by first removing the TOP fastener (you will need a 12mm deep well socket, and about 15" of extension on your ratchet, and this nut was somewhat rusted on mine, so I doused it with penetrant before continuing, because if you break or strip it, you're screwed) then remove the bottom fastener ( a 12 mm bolt.) This will allow you to then remove the intake manifold. I almost forgot, the radiator hose is definitely in the way when you are trying to remove the bitch bracket, my solution was not to remove it, but to zip tie it to the cooling fan guard. 3: Although I think it is a very good practice to replace gaskets when doing a job like this, don't panic if you don't have them on hand before you start. Mine weren't available the day I needed to do this, and the intake and throttle body gaskets were both intact and reusable in my case. If worse comes to worst, and I need to go back in, at least the intake doesn't have to be completely removed to replace the gasket, and the throttle body comes off pretty easily too. This ended up being a time consuming job based on the amount of removal to gain access, but nothing top of the lungs curse-worthy either. Again, thanks for the great video, your time and effort to make this is appreciated.
Hello Thomas and wow!! I'd like to start out by saying thank you very much for adding all these comments. This Will bring so much value to the future viewers. Bitch bracket was funny:) thank you so much for your time and I'm glad this help you out.
Thanks for the video - great step-by-step instructions! I am a novice mechanic and replaced the starter with my teenage sons. We ended up pretty much removing the throttle body and giving it a good cleaning since it was pretty dirty. This led to some additional leaking of coolant as we worked on it, but it made it much easier to maneuver the manifold. It was a bear getting the bracket underneath the manifold off - got some help on this with addition of liquid wrench and some creative use of wobble sockets from underneath the car. Once that was off the rest was pretty straightforward. It was nice to finally get the car running again - my boys are excited to use it and/or sell it!
Cut the time in a third and take out the knock sensor and you can access the back 14mm relatively easy with a short extension and a long ratchet with leverage. Won't need to touch anything on top except for the battery cable. In and out in less than 90mins.
Thank you very much, at first I was gonna take my car to the dealership but when the guy quoted me about the price I changed my mind even at the local repair shop is also very expensive, after watching your video I had a courage to do this by myself, this is not an easy job to do but with your video instruction it makes it a little bit easy for me. That bracket at the bottom that support the manifold and holds the connector harness is a bitch to remove I almost gave up on this.Now I understand why repair shop charge a lot to do this job.But thanks so much I save some money.
This is a great video! Straight forward and fast! Do you need to change out the manifold gasket and throttle body gasket? I understand it’s good practice but I can’t seem to find genuine Honda throttle body gasket. I can find a manifold gasket but not the throttle body unless I go to Honda
My CR-V was having intermittent problem with cranking very slow, then would be fine for next 10 starts. Then it started happening more often. Had my local battery guy (Ed's in Westbrook, ME is the best!) check my battery and charging system, they found no problems so we figured next most likely thing would be the starter. Was not sure I wanted to take on this job until I found this video and comments. Instruction in video very good, I took my starter to a local rebuilder (Kaza in Portland, ME) who verified it was fried and not worth rebuilding. He was able to supply me a Japanese manufactured starter for $150. Thank You for a great instruction video. I would like to make some video of boat work that I do and was impressed with your camera angles and video quality, what did you use to film and how did you mount it so you had such good angles while working with 2 hands?
Bill Duggan I'm glad the video helped out. Thank you for watching! As far is filming goes my set up is really simple. I use an IPhone 7 and for most of the shooting I hold it by hand and occasionally are use rags that I kind of made from cell phone mounts that I attached magnets to and some go pro mounts that I modified to hold the cell phone. My last hundred or so videos I have been doing voiceover work in the editing process. I would say don't get too fancy just start making videos and as you learn and your videos start making money for yourself you can invest in different camera equipment.
Fantastic Brian , I just recently replace the coolant pipe and went thru the same disassembly as you did. I think you should had replaced your coolant pipe as well , while you had access to it..just a thought. Thanks
Hello. Was everyone's problem on these an intermittent crank? Be fine for awhile and then won't start till you turn the key a bunch? Got an 08 doing it. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. after everything is done and when I turned on the engine the front part of the car is getting really hot. I'd say extremely hot. Also, when I press gas there's some kind of new strange sound at the end (about when I got my feet off of the gas pedal). Any suggestion?
I did an '08 model from underneath. The dreaded back bolt was ceased so I simply unscrewed the starter housig bolts (8mm) and it fell out in half. Removed the back bolt. The trick putting it back is to get a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with an assortment of 1" and 2" extensions. Yeah no need to remove that knock sensor. After all is set and done just assemble the old starter and get your core fee back from the parts store
How to Automotive I did fail to mention I lifted the vehicle and had to literally lay my full body underneath (head oriented forward) to stream line the replacement. I could have replaced it in 20 minutes but the idea of being crushed with the vehicle delayed my work to an hour. Obviously I should have used jack stands but didn’t have any at the time.
.brian i hope u get a chance to step up to the plate and take this pat on the back ,that u so well deserve..the video u done on the crv starter replacement was beyond a big help to me thank,s again bud ..and have a great day ..your friend from canada ..
Thank you to the author of this video, without it I would not have been able to complete job as there is very valuable info. That ring said, the starter can come out from underneath!!
Charl Reyneke if you don't mind spending the extra money I would recommend a dealer. Or check your local parts suppliers there'll be better at recommending a starter.
Thank you so much for posting this! And just in time for me to be having starter issues nonetheless ;) I followed your guide and and was able to successfully replace my starter and get my starter in under 3hrs. Great step-by-step guide! However, I think I may have over-torqued the intake and throttle body bolts/nuts because I am experiencing a significant decrease in gas milage. I replaced the gaskets and cleaned the surfaces well, but should I replace them again if I over-torqued them? What do you think?
Cody Cloyd hello Cody. Congrats on getting the starter done. Most likely if there is something wrong the check engine light would be on. You could possibly have some type a vacuum leak. I would look for a hose off.
All this is unnecessary. You can get it out from underneath without removing any of the manifold. I did it this morning with very basic tools. Buy a set of ramps or a jack and stands then do it that way. The 14mm behind the starter was the only real issue. The guys done a good job, it's just the manifold is not actually limiting the removal of the starter. This is just a different way to access it.
Mark Davies how long it took you to pull it out fro tje bottom? im gotta start mine on monday. i plan to do it from underneath. pls i need more info. thank you and god bless
I agree. I've even done it on a Gen2 CRV and a Element from underneath. On those you need to remove the knock sensor to give you the extra little bit of room. On the Gen3 CRV you also need to remove the knock sensor and remove the bracket that is in front of the starter for the extra room needed. Then just remove the wires and starter bolts.
How to Automotive I know it was a year ago but do you remember about how long it took you as an “average guy” or non-experienced guy? Or did you end up having someone else do it?
How did you get the nut off the top of the starter? I had to drop the starter because I couldn't get access to the nut with any of the tools I had. Is there a special tool? Don't forget to tell the people they should - 1. drain the radiator before doing this job. 2. After you take off the intake manifold, stuff rags or paper tools into the intakes so nothing drops into the engine. Remember the "My Cousin Vinnie" story about rebuilding the carburetor?
CHERRYBOY5000 no special tool need it to get to it. Just use a 17 mm socket an a 3 inch extension. So you'll you'll be real close to the knock sensor with your ratchet. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Have removed many starters in my days, this one is almost as bad as removing one from a Cadillac North Star where it sits on the top of the engine, hidden under the intake...but the CRV is no Accord or Civic...pain in the ass, yes but doable...but differ from brian and Honda's service manual, this entire process can be done from the top..how the hell brian got that intake out beats me, i twisted and turned and it aint coming, BUT what worked for me was to take the radiator and condenser brackets out about 4 10mm bolts each side and let the intake rest against the fan shroud, NOW you got room to get out the starter bolts 1-14mm and 1-17mm also easy access to the battery cable bolt and unplug the starter wire..unplug the knock sensor, you dont have to remove it...once all bolts and wires are removed, standing in front of the vehicle pull the starter out with your left hand, plenty clearance....note: i removed the 2 intake studs just to be able to roll that intake to create more room to get to the starter. Time consuming job? You bet...but talk to 5 mechanics and they will tell you 5 different ways to do it. This way was easy for me...tip of the hat to brian for getting the intake out, but i got small hands, i don't need a lot of space to work with..
I don’t understand why people are taking the starter out from the top you have to remove so much from the bottom is so much easier but to each his own good video though
That's gross. He has videos on both, for some of us the top is way more convenient. Stop trying to be better than strangers on the internet, and stop being a jerk.
I am stuck trying to remove power terminal nut on the starter itself. There is not enough clearance to put a ratchet and socket on it because of the stupid metal pipe right above it. A 12mm wrench body is too wide and it doesn't fit because of the stupid plastic ring around it. I can't reach the bolt in the back either because the terminal cable is on its way. Any ideas?
I ended up putting the socket on the bolt by its self then clamped vise grips around the socket and was able to twist it loose. Now if the front rusted starter mounting bolt would just break loose I would be in business. WD40 do your magic!
Haha I thought you labeled the vid wrong, OMG you tore the engine apart to change the starter motor haha too much. I like my Chevys. 4 hours to change a starter . Cheers buddy...
i was hoping you where doing a prank to us by telling that you had to remove all those parts to get to the starter. but sadly by half of the video i realize you was serious. Honda is really bad doing that design. Ones I had to replace the starter of my seat ibiza and didn't have to remove anything extra. was accessible and easy. Good designs are harder to find...
Thank you for the video. I just finished my 2009 CRV (182.5K miles) starter ... I'd like to share what I've learned: 1. I first tried from the bottom. I don't have a lift as I'm at home. Only have a jack and jack-stands. I removed the bottom plastic shield - it's tedious, but doable. Then the bitch bracket - true to its name, especially the top bolt, which needs a deep 12 mm socket, and some extensions to the ratchet. Be careful, don't strip it; the bottom 12 mm is easy. Then I loosen the front 17 mm bolt on the starter. It's a bit tight, but doable. After that, everything is a nightmare. First you can't see, but can only feel the back bolt with the tip of my middle finger (fittingly). I took off the knock sensor connector. But I can't even fit the socket onto the bolt because I can't see anything (I didn't even know how long of a socket to use), and there's just no room to work. Working from the bottom my arms and hands can't twist and turn as well. I wondered how people can torque anything from the bottom ... So after half a day, I gave up working on the bottom. I researched some more to see how people did it from the top, which brought me to this video. 2. I followed everything to this video to a Tee ... that is all the way until taking the intake plenum out. I couldn't do it even after wiggling and jiggling everything. The radiator hose was blocking me. The part of the intake that was taken out (the one with 4 bolts, strapped away to the hood hinge) was blocking me. So I didn't take it out. I orient it like the video says to the right and upward - it's a quarter way out. But I now can see the starter and have enough room to work on it. 3. I find it easiest to break the black plastic around the + connector (12 mm nut) and fit a wrench in there to hand loosen it. After that's out, remove the connector clip. After all that's out, then you can really access the back 14mm long bolt. It's a bit tough to get it out but follow the video and you can work it out. (I didn't have a 14mm socket with the right depth to fit right between the Knock sensor and the + cable). 4. I slowly remove the starter (remember I don't have my intake out completely and only partially). I put in the new one (from O'Reilly's, new Ultima Starter) with the back bolt already loosely on the starter. Then I slowly thread it with my hand until it catches. Thereafter I hand thread the bottom 17mm (from bottom of the car). You may have to use 3 fingers to align the starter by supporting it, and use the other 2 fingers to hand thread. After a while it'll only turn with a ratchet, get it all the way down and snug it. Then snug the bottom bolt (again, from the bottom of the car, which is easier - it might not be accessible if you didn't have the bottom plastic shield removed). 5. Then I put on the 12mm nut on the + terminal of the starter. There's just enough room to do that ... some say it's easier to do this FIRST before the back bolt, but because I don't have the right depth 14mm socket, this is the route I took. Then I connected back the connector, knock sensor, and put everything back. 6. The car started, but there's a high frequency buzz ... it just doesn't want to go away. It starts/drives no problem except for that noise. At this point I was very upset. I just spent 4 to 5 hrs and now I might have to take it all apart again. I could have nicked a cable? Not connect something correctly? Missed a vacuum line? I spent the night thinking about what the hell I didn't do - or was it a bad "brand new starter?" 7. In the morning I decided to take it out ... which means I'm doing it again (bad news) ... the good news is I know exactly what to do. It took about 1 hr to remove everything, including the starter. (I only have all hand tools and no power tools). 8. I went to another local Auto Part store and asked for a Denso Starter (280-6007) ... They had it (a re-man) and I bought it (for about the same price as the Ultima starter). 9. I went home and put it on. The only difference is their + terminal on the starter is more raised and uses a 13mm nut. Putting it on was very easy. 10. I buttoned up everything. It took about 45 minutes. Started the car (sweet sound of a nice start) and no buzz no hum afterwards. After putting in the plastic bottom, I'll be finally done! 11. Conclusion - A. Don't buy after market shit. Don't even bother. Go with either OEM or Denso for Hondas. End of story. I feel so angry that I had to do this 2x. But I was also glad to have done it again so now I feel like I'm certified to do this from now on (dumb joke) ... B. For Honda Accord, there's much more room in front of the radiator so the plenum comes out without a problem. For the CRV there's just not much room, but I got the job done without getting it completely out. You just need to orient the plenum enough to expose the Starter. C. For do it at home guys, I just don't see how you can do it from the bottom. I've read that you can take out the Knock Sensor (with a 27 mm or 1-1/16), but for the most part you're working blind ... I hate that. Maybe a tech can do it from the bottom if they have a lift AND they've done it from the top before to know exactly where everything is ... if you can't work blind, I'd suggest not wasting time down there. Just not worth it. D. Follow this video ... and you won't go wrong. E. The 2nd time, I did it in about 2 hrs. So the first timers, I'd suggest saving at least a good part of the day to do this. In the end you'd save yourself $500 to $800 worth of labor.
A lot of people need to understand you have to replace all these gaskets you can’t just remove this shit and not replace the gaskets for throttle body and exhaust manifold
Soooo stupid removing the intake for such a simple task. Did it from under in less than 30 minutes... the bolt in the back seems like a pain in the ass, but it has a extension on it. No big deal....
Patrick McNulty you can actually do this without taking the throttlebody and intake off but it is difficult. I agree if you though the old cars are much easier to work with.
Screw this! Every other car company allows you to get to the starter from underneath the vehicle. All of this nonsense just to remove a part with two bolts. What the Hell is Honda's problem?
I went from underneath as per the Honda service manual and all i had to remove was the intake manifold bracket, quick easy replacement, there is no need to go through all of this.
I need to re write the Honda service manual, did this job all from top, did not raise the vehicle nor remove the intake...see comments above..
How to see this manual?
Love it
I purchased it along time ago probably off of ebay@@fivefalls
You have a video link for this because I did it on e from the top and don't want to do it again
I normally don't make comments on you tube, but I absolutely had to this time. My experience with mechanics has been limited to oil changes, fixing flats and I have changed out my brake rotors and brake pads. On Friday I had an issue that regardless of how much we tried to jump my brand new battery, it just wouldn't start. If not for your video on how to change a starter I would probably be about $800 dollars if not more in the negative right now. Thank you very much for your video and all the step by step instructions you provided. I replaced the starter on Saturday and the car is running better than ever!
Jose Calzadilla I'm glad the video helped. Thank for sharing and watching!
Wow a new starter made your car run better than ever?
YOU ARE THE MAN!!! My 2007 Honda CRV starter went down and what timing right before X-MAS. I always hit up you tube for my car fixes to see if it is something I can do. I am in NO WAY a mechanic but willing to try if I have the tools. Watched your video and said to myself I can do this (I had NO idea were the starter was even located) I did the alternator on the car a couple months ago (watched a youtube video) I can say the alternator was a pain in the A** but I got it done. This video saved me at least 200 to 400. The new starter and the gaskets ran me around 250.00 If I took it to a mechanic the bill would be 400 to 600. Thank you for the video and helping people who are just trying to keep food on the table.
At first I thought of going through the bottom. Initially this method may seem intimidating but let me tell you it is a breeze. Very glad i went this way. Hardest part is removing some stubborn hoses. Once TB is out the manifold comes out a lot easier that in looks in the video. Having a friend's helping hand to grab things it took me a little over 2.5hrs the whole job. Accessing the starter from the top is incredibly convenient. One tip, remove the starter before removing the power cable. Once loose you can tilt it and remove the power cable very easy. Same process back. Great thanks to the video creator!!
Same here Alex... Watched a dozen videos on doing this, both from below and above. Going from below seemed like an exercise in frustration... Finally decided on going from above, mostly because I replaced the steel cooling tube that goes from the thermostat housing to the firewall about a year ago, and changing out the starter required the same process. Finished it up yesterday around dinner time... Don't regret going at it from above. Taking everything out was a pain in the ass at times, but getting at the starter was MUCH easier this way! I still found that I had to remove the air dam/fairing to make it easier to get at the bracket that goes from the engine block to the air intake
I highly recommend anyone reading this to bite the bullet and go at the starter from above. One tip... Drain the coolant out of the radiator (there's a convenient valve at the bottom of the radiator) to below the level of the throttle body. You'll avoid a lot of mess (coolant pouring out everywhere) and it just makes removing the coolant hoses a lot less of a hassle.
I've done it from the bottom and it sucks. I will be going from the top this time.
THE STARTER CAN BE REMOVED FROM UNDERNEATH! It is much easier that way. I will repeat what I read in earlier comments from more knowledgeable people than myself:the only hard part is removing the 14 mm starter back-bolt! You must remove the knock sensor to free up some room and will need a 1 1/16 socket to fo this (pretty sure that is the size) then it is just a matter of getting a socket onto the bolt, you will not be able to see what you are doing, but after a bit you will get it. You will need a decent set of sockets and extensions, but nothing special really. Easy breezy
andrew warram I have videos on doing it both ways to give people options.
@@HowtoAutomotive Thank you for that. Is it possible to provide a link? I browsed your videos from around the same time you uploaded this, and also the starter video playlist but couldn't find something for replacing the starter on a CRV from the bottom. Thanks again!
@@kamesenLBC On You tube there is a video: "How To Replace a Honda K Series Starter the 'Easy' Way" I tried that way and it's works!
@@damiank837 I can confirm I replaced the starter by going through the bottom. Loosening that custom bolt took A LOT of patience though!
This video was very helpful to me. Thank you. I used this video to get to the heater pipe behind the starter on my 2009 Honda CRV. The intake manifold and attached plastic air chamber were the biggest difficulty I had but I managed to remove and reinstall using this video as a guide. The heater pipe started leaking coolant because Honda used poor quality pipe metal that rusted through the metal leaving 3 pencil lead-size holes. The car only has 79K miles and placed in service August 2010. Once I removed and inspected the rusted heater pipe it had 4 more sections that rust has started to eat through the metal as well. Genuine Honda 07-09 CR-V Heater Pipe 19510-RTB-000 was on national back order and took me 3 weeks to get a new one from eBay. We had four large Honda dealerships in our area and none of them has the part in stock. Once I replaced the heater pipe, I decided to replace the starter because I'm seeing a trend on RUclips that Honda starters usually go bad at the 100K mile mark. The starter replacement was a generic part from AMAZON and only cost a fraction of the OEM version. And since I've already drained the coolant, I decided to replace the thermostat and upper/lower radiator hoses. The manifold and throttle body gaskets are generic from Amazon. For this kind of work I expected to find anti-freeze/coolant and vacuum leaks. No coolant leak but I had a vacuum leak indicated by the engine "idiot" light and an OBDII Code P0171. There were two vacuum hoses that I did not do a good job connecting and securing. Tool note: Vise grip and long needle nose plier for the clamp removal. 1/4 in. drive ratchet and 8 to 14 metric regular and deep sockets, 1/4 universal (swivel) joint extension, and 1/4 drive 3-in/5-in/10-in extensions for the manifold. Liquid soap or detergent to ease the hose installation.
I did the same job about two years ago Ernie (that metal heater pipe that goes from the thermostat housing to the firewall feed hose). At the time, that pipe/part was out of stock worldwide. Figured out that the heater pipe from the Honda Element was about 90% the same and best of all, it was in stock from online Honda parts outlets. The job was intimidating at first, but if you are organized, methodical and watch a RUclips video or two on doing it, things go fairly well.
Same goes for the starter replacement... Same steps as the cooling tube replacement and I think it's a hell of a lot easier than trying to route around for the bolt head on that back mounting screw, then contorting yourself to get the starter out. Took me about an hour and half or so to remove everything, then another 30 minutes or so to get the starter out. Re-installation (of everything) took less than an hour, with a lot of it spent wrestling with all the rusted fasteners/hose clamps.
It's pretty amazing how much better the new starter works... The car sounded "sick" when you'd go to start it prior to it dying completely (another reason to go from the top, I couldn't run the car up on ramps for better bottom access!).
It was an experience... Learned some stuff. Saved a little money. Feel good that I "did it myself".
Just did this repair yesterday. 1. You don't need to Jack up the car at all-very easy to access bracket bolt with extensions. 2. You don't need to completely remove intake manifold just move it the right and the starter is easily accessible.
This saves a lot of time!
After watching this video I decided to take on the task of replacing the starter on my 07 crv. Here is what I have learned. 1. watch this video several times and have it ready as you do the work. 2. follow the steps just the way he says. I tried to do some things my way and all I did was waste time. by the way, he is not kidding when he says you have to playing around moving things around to get the manifold out. At first it feels like it is impossible, but believe me, it comes out. Anyways, thanks so much for posting this video. I am saving some money. Last but not least, in case people want to know, I bought my stater at O'Reillys for $135.99 with a $44 core charge. cheaper than advance and autozone. The intake manifold gasket sells for $19.
Wow thank you for posting this!! I hope people read your comments and take the job on. Glad to help you save some money👍🏻
Glad that you did your own work. But never skimp on parts. The cheap remanufactured parts from the parts stores are junk and only last 1-3 years tops. OEM are ridiculously expensive but will last 10-20 years. Depending on miles driven. I learned this the hard way unfortunately
@@JasonSmith-utube I have learnt that lesson too in the past few years. Fortunately this starter is still working fine, but we don't drive the car that much.
Thank you sooo much for sharing this video. The gut below comment is right on the money. I saw a norther video doing it from the bottom way less stuff came off. BUT after 4 hours of trying to get the last starter bolt off from the bottom I quit and went your way from the top. Beware don't waist your time going from the bottom. The only suggestion I have is drain a little from the radiator and take the top hose off. Manifold come right out then. Thanks Again.
This is my job tomorrow! I plan to watch this all night tonight. It's supposed to be 48° and sunny. Prayers, please!!!
Donna jo catlady Hopefully it’s nice and sunny and everything goes smooth. Thank you for watching!
Just want to say thank you! I was able to successfully replace my fiancé's starter following this video. A couple things that might be helpful for anyone else using this video as a guide.
- Don't overwork the bolt holding the bottom bracket to the intake manifold. You WILL round it off! I tried to remove it without penetrating oil and a with a cheater bar and it was a big mistake. I had to use a 1/2" bolt extractor to remove it. USE PENETRATING OIL!
- You don't need to fully remove the intake manifold. Just move it as far as you can to the side. You will be able to access the starter.
- Once you get the intake manifold out of the way and you're starting on removing the starter, be aware of the bolt securing the electrical connection. I found this bolt extremely difficult to remove with the tools I had. There's a metal coolant line which blocks anything but the shortest sockets and the collar around the bolt prevents a regular wrench from fitting. I had to pull the starter partially out to get that bolt off.
- The bolts holding in the starter are extremely difficult to remove. Use lots of penetrating oil. I ended up having to go in through the bottom to get enough torque with a breaker bar. If I have to do this again, I'll probably try just going from the bottom instead of pulling out the intake manifold.
I went from below to get my old stater off. Got it off, got the new one on. Spent 6 hours trying to get the back bolt threaded. It's in position, just won't screw in. Now I'm contemplating going from the top just to get the bolt.
I found the video extremely helpful to replace the starter on my daughter's 10-year old CR-V. I negotiated the price of a rebuilt starter down to $150 at my local parts store, plus another $25 for the gaskets. It would have cost many times that at a Honda dealership.
My daughter mentioned over a year ago that the car was starting more and more slowly. I replaced the battery as that was several years old, but the car still started the same. About a year later it gave up the ghost. I got it home by whacking the starter body with an 18" long form stake that I could feed up the access hole for the radiator drain valve. It kicked over with my daughter holding the key in the start position while I poked the starter from below. Once it started, I drove it home to my garage and proceeded to follow your directions.
In the Honda service manual, it directs the mechanic to remove the lower plastic shield and work the starter replacement from below. Yeah, right ...
Rich Pineault glad the video was able to help you get your daughters car back on the road. Thank you for watching and sharing your story!
I tried going from under, and could not for the life of me get the rear starter bolt. Don't even attempt it unless you have an angled socket wrench. Going from above and this helpful walkthrough were massive time savers. THANK YOU
The starter on a 2007 Crv is easily removed from under the vehicle. Remove the knock sensor and unbolt the starter. No need for additional work or gaskets.
Rick Taylor I did one from underneath recently and it went well and did one two days later and the bolts would not budge so I had to take the intake off anyways. I do look forward to filming it from underneath though. Thank you for writing.
Don't know about easily..... But no worries about induction leaks removing the starter from the bottom.
Did my son's starter from the bottom this afternoon. Followed the procedure in the shop manual. The shop manual does not mention removing the knock sensor but I don't see how it's physically possible to get the top starter bolt out without removing it. It a clearance issue.
Disconnect the battery for safety reasons.
Jack up the car to give yourself some room to work.
Remove the bottom plastic shroud by popping a bunch of plastic push pins.
Remove the "bitch bracket". NOTE - if you remove the plastic shroud and use a long extension(s) and it's not a bitch bracket. Actually very easy.
Remove the bottom starter bolt (17 mm).
REMOVE THE KNOCK sensor - if you have a 3/8" breaker bar you MIGHT get lucky. Otherwise just remove the sensor.
WARNING - Now is time when you will fully understand why your local mechanic wanted to charge you hundreds of dollars to change the starter!!!
Remove the top bolt (14 mm) - This is an extended bolt. You only have to go back about 4" from the end of the starter to get to the head of the bolt. By now you might be second guessing yourself and wishing you removed the intake manifold. Too late! You've in too deep. Power through it.
I used a 1/2" breaker bar (to crack the top bolt) connected to a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to a 3/8" - 14 mm deep socket. The total length of the 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and the 17 mm deep socket was exactly 5" long. You will understand later why I'm giving you this measurement :) Once you crack the bolt you can use a 1/2" ratchet to loosen the bolt.
Once the top bolt is removed you may have to tap the starter with a mallet to break it free.
Turn the starter to gain access to the two cables connected to the starter. Disconnect both wires/cables.
Follow these steps in reverse to install the new starter.
So the top bolt is the show stopper using either method.
Everything else is straight forward. THIS IS NOT A 30 MINUTE JOB!! So make sure you don't need the car for a few hours (assuming the problem was intermittent)
It took me a total of five hours from start to finish to change the starter on the 2007 CR-V. My 1997 Jeep TJ took 30 minutes! Gotta love old school!
Forgot to mention in my post that I'm in agreement with Rick Taylor
Thank you for the great addition to this clip.
I need this job done soon on my 09 CRV. I'm leaning toward the underneath approach since it seems to involve less dismentle and parts.
When you stated "REMOVE THE KNOCK sensor - if you have a 3/8" breaker bar you MIGHT get lucky. Otherwise just remove the sensor.", did you mean to take the sensor cable + plug out or to screw the sensor unit out from the engine?
Looks like a nightmare
Your instructions were spot on! I just replaced my starter this morning per your instructions and it wasn't difficult at all. The hardest part was removing the starter bolt with the shank on it. It took me an hour to get it out because I was using hand tools. I used a lot of PB Blaster on the bolt and tried to work it on the threads. Once the bolt came out, it was slightly crooked! Good thing I bought new fasteners from Honda.
Great instructional! I just replaced ours in three hours. I'm not a mechanic, either. This was very helpful. The hardest part was getting the intake manifold out. Oh, and I broke the electrical connection to the starter (that screw holding the terminal to the starter). I basically punched a hole in the old starter. Haha. That nut is very hard to get to. You can probably pull the starter out a little way and get to the nut easier. That's what I did on the reinstall. I bolted the terminal, then installed the starter. Pow!
Thanks again for the video. A+!!
Person Adam glad the video helped. Thank you for the tip and for watching!
Just did one from the bottom. Take out knock sensor and you’re golden. If u don’t have a rack, this way might b more convenient.
Worked on a 2007 CRV today. This video was instrumental in helping me R+R the starter.
Your video was on point 👉 👈 with every detail.
Thank you again.
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Wow Now I understand why I paid all those labor fees....Glad I left mine to the experts!! Thanks for posting this!
There is an easier way - from the bottom.
Thank you for the video. It is smart and straightforward, and if the viewer follows your method, they will be able to do this job. I would like to add a couple of things I learned from doing this today, not because your instruction is lacking anything, I just personally like to see as many relevant tips from viewers as possible, when attempting a repair.
1: Like alfredobrown says, "follow the steps just the way he says"- which I did, right up to the point where you said to leave everything attached to the throttle body when removing it. I found it difficult to maneuver the throttle body with the hoses attached, so I removed them, and I thought about removing the electrical connector too, but decided against it (good decision), just know that the hoses are coolant lines so don't be surprised when some coolant leaks (especially later when removing intake manifold and you have to squeeze radiator hose to maneuver it) just plug them after you remove them.
2: The bracket you reference at around 5:45 in the video, (I'll call it the bitch bracket) I found out, as you did, is much easier to remove from the bottom,(I didn't raise the car though, and it was not ideal, but doable) from my experience, I would definitely say remove the bitch bracket first BEFORE unbolting the intake manifold, by first removing the TOP fastener (you will need a 12mm deep well socket, and about 15" of extension on your ratchet, and this nut was somewhat rusted on mine, so I doused it with penetrant before continuing, because if you break or strip it, you're screwed) then remove the bottom fastener ( a 12 mm bolt.) This will allow you to then remove the intake manifold. I almost forgot, the radiator hose is definitely in the way when you are trying to remove the bitch bracket, my solution was not to remove it, but to zip tie it to the cooling fan guard.
3: Although I think it is a very good practice to replace gaskets when doing a job like this, don't panic if you don't have them on hand before you start. Mine weren't available the day I needed to do this, and the intake and throttle body gaskets were both intact and reusable in my case. If worse comes to worst, and I need to go back in, at least the intake doesn't have to be completely removed to replace the gasket, and the throttle body comes off pretty easily too.
This ended up being a time consuming job based on the amount of removal to gain access, but nothing top of the lungs curse-worthy either. Again, thanks for the great video, your time and effort to make this is appreciated.
Hello Thomas and wow!! I'd like to start out by saying thank you very much for adding all these comments. This Will bring so much value to the future viewers. Bitch bracket was funny:) thank you so much for your time and I'm glad this help you out.
Thanks for the video - great step-by-step instructions! I am a novice mechanic and replaced the starter with my teenage sons. We ended up pretty much removing the throttle body and giving it a good cleaning since it was pretty dirty. This led to some additional leaking of coolant as we worked on it, but it made it much easier to maneuver the manifold. It was a bear getting the bracket underneath the manifold off - got some help on this with addition of liquid wrench and some creative use of wobble sockets from underneath the car. Once that was off the rest was pretty straightforward. It was nice to finally get the car running again - my boys are excited to use it and/or sell it!
Cut the time in a third and take out the knock sensor and you can access the back 14mm relatively easy with a short extension and a long ratchet with leverage. Won't need to touch anything on top except for the battery cable. In and out in less than 90mins.
Excellent video, followed it verbatim and job took about 4 hours for me..
vegarickrick very cool. Thank you for sharing in watching!
Thank you very much, at first I was gonna take my car to the dealership but when the guy quoted me about the price I changed my mind even at the local repair shop is also very expensive, after watching your video I had a courage to do this by myself, this is not an easy job to do but with your video instruction it makes it a little bit easy for me. That bracket at the bottom that support the manifold and holds the connector harness is a bitch to remove I almost gave up on this.Now I understand why repair shop charge a lot to do this job.But thanks so much I save some money.
relicsun glad to help. Thank you for writing and watching!
just did mine from below. has blind bolt behind starter but is not that bad. retired Pro.
This is a great video! Straight forward and fast! Do you need to change out the manifold gasket and throttle body gasket? I understand it’s good practice but I can’t seem to find genuine Honda throttle body gasket. I can find a manifold gasket but not the throttle body unless I go to Honda
My CR-V was having intermittent problem with cranking very slow, then would be fine for next 10 starts. Then it started happening more often. Had my local battery guy (Ed's in Westbrook, ME is the best!) check my battery and charging system, they found no problems so we figured next most likely thing would be the starter. Was not sure I wanted to take on this job until I found this video and comments. Instruction in video very good, I took my starter to a local rebuilder (Kaza in Portland, ME) who verified it was fried and not worth rebuilding. He was able to supply me a Japanese manufactured starter for $150. Thank You for a great instruction video. I would like to make some video of boat work that I do and was impressed with your camera angles and video quality, what did you use to film and how did you mount it so you had such good angles while working with 2 hands?
Bill Duggan I'm glad the video helped out. Thank you for watching! As far is filming goes my set up is really simple. I use an IPhone 7 and for most of the shooting I hold it by hand and occasionally are use rags that I kind of made from cell phone mounts that I attached magnets to and some go pro mounts that I modified to hold the cell phone. My last hundred or so videos I have been doing voiceover work in the editing process. I would say don't get too fancy just start making videos and as you learn and your videos start making money for yourself you can invest in different camera equipment.
Fantastic Brian , I just recently replace the coolant pipe and went thru the same disassembly as you did. I think you should had replaced your coolant pipe as well , while you had access to it..just a thought. Thanks
JOGO if the vehicle has high mileage I agree. This vehicle only had about 50,000 miles on it.
How to Automotive Ok I replaced it at 204,000 miles..that's when it was leaking.
Can u do a series on this car?.... Water pump , alternator, pulleys, etc. thanks
I'll do my best to do as many Honda videos as I can. Thank you for watching!
Hello. Was everyone's problem on these an intermittent crank? Be fine for awhile and then won't start till you turn the key a bunch? Got an 08 doing it. Thanks!
Performed this replacement last year on my 2004 CR-V. What a mess, but it's been fine ever since.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. after everything is done and when I turned on the engine the front part of the car is getting really hot. I'd say extremely hot. Also, when I press gas there's some kind of new strange sound at the end (about when I got my feet off of the gas pedal). Any suggestion?
Brian, Curious on this model CRV 2007. How long would you estimate the complete R&R on this starter to be ? Thanks
I did an '08 model from underneath. The dreaded back bolt was ceased so I simply unscrewed the starter housig bolts (8mm) and it fell out in half. Removed the back bolt. The trick putting it back is to get a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with an assortment of 1" and 2" extensions. Yeah no need to remove that knock sensor. After all is set and done just assemble the old starter and get your core fee back from the parts store
Airmanmx1 That’s pretty awesome. Very creative thinking I like that.
How to Automotive I did fail to mention I lifted the vehicle and had to literally lay my full body underneath (head oriented forward) to stream line the replacement. I could have replaced it in 20 minutes but the idea of being crushed with the vehicle delayed my work to an hour. Obviously I should have used jack stands but didn’t have any at the time.
Airmanmx1 i’m glad it all worked out you got the starter done and you were safe.
Hey men can i used your 20mins method replacing starter video from 2002-2007 for 2008 crv?
I’m not 100% sure but I believe so
@@HowtoAutomotive ok cool. Because my CRV 2008 wont start but battery is Good. And i saw your video replacing starter under 20min.
Any tricks to get the 12 mm battery cable off the starter. Is it hand tight? Maybe shoe us the socket or wrench you use
.brian i hope u get a chance to step up to the plate and take this pat on the back ,that u so well deserve..the video u done on the crv starter replacement was beyond a big help to me thank,s again bud ..and have a great day ..your friend from canada ..
Eugene McCoy thank you!! Glad to help. What part of Canada are you from? I'm in San Diego California.
Thank you to the author of this video, without it I would not have been able to complete job as there is very valuable info. That ring said, the starter can come out from underneath!!
About to tackle this task, underneath as you said was best...what tools are required and any other advice ?
My starter motor for my 2007 Honda CRV just broke and I need to replace it. What is the make and model you suggest I buy to replace the old one?
Charl Reyneke if you don't mind spending the extra money I would recommend a dealer. Or check your local parts suppliers there'll be better at recommending a starter.
Thank you for the video. It made the job so much easier. Torque specs were at big plus.
Did you replace the intake manifold gaskets as well?
Very Interesting and also very helpful....THANKS A BUNCH !!
Thank you for watching and writing!! Hope it helped.
Thank you so much for posting this! And just in time for me to be having starter issues nonetheless ;)
I followed your guide and and was able to successfully replace my starter and get my starter in under 3hrs. Great step-by-step guide!
However, I think I may have over-torqued the intake and throttle body bolts/nuts because I am experiencing a significant decrease in gas milage.
I replaced the gaskets and cleaned the surfaces well, but should I replace them again if I over-torqued them?
What do you think?
Cody Cloyd hello Cody. Congrats on getting the starter done. Most likely if there is something wrong the check engine light would be on. You could possibly have some type a vacuum leak. I would look for a hose off.
Did you replace it with an OEM or aftermarket starter?
Aftermarket. There are links in the description.
Thank you very much for the quick reply. I'm having issues with my starter on my 07 Crv.
nivan514 sorry you're having trouble. I've had good luck with aftermarket starters. OEM can be very expensive.
Thank you very much for all your help, and the great video!!!
nivan514 glad to help. Thank you for watching!
All this is unnecessary. You can get it out from underneath without removing any of the manifold. I did it this morning with very basic tools. Buy a set of ramps or a jack and stands then do it that way. The 14mm behind the starter was the only real issue.
The guys done a good job, it's just the manifold is not actually limiting the removal of the starter. This is just a different way to access it.
Mark Davies how long it took you to pull it out fro tje bottom? im gotta start mine on monday.
i plan to do it from underneath.
pls i need more info.
thank you and god bless
Yes I have the same question......what all did you have to take off to get access to the starter
I agree. I've even done it on a Gen2 CRV and a Element from underneath. On those you need to remove the knock sensor to give you the extra little bit of room. On the Gen3 CRV you also need to remove the knock sensor and remove the bracket that is in front of the starter for the extra room needed. Then just remove the wires and starter bolts.
This is a great video to have if you doing this starter. Many thanks Brian !
great video helped me out alot thanks man
Mike Vega glad the video helped out thank you for watching!
Also , removing the hose at valve cover is preferable because the air tube loves to tear.
how long does this process take for an average guy to replace?
Earl Morris I would say if you’ve never done it before to 2 1/2 hours
How to Automotive I know it was a year ago but do you remember about how long it took you as an “average guy” or non-experienced guy? Or did you end up having someone else do it?
How did you get the nut off the top of the starter? I had to drop the starter because I couldn't get access to the nut with any of the tools I had. Is there a special tool?
Don't forget to tell the people they should -
1. drain the radiator before doing this job.
2. After you take off the intake manifold, stuff rags or paper tools into the intakes so nothing drops into the engine. Remember the "My Cousin Vinnie" story about rebuilding the carburetor?
CHERRYBOY5000 no special tool need it to get to it. Just use a 17 mm socket an a 3 inch extension. So you'll you'll be real close to the knock sensor with your ratchet. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Gracias amigo!!! Really appreciate your help with this video. Help me alot. GBY.
Tower Mas glad to help. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for posting this video. Very clear and well explained.
pwerboost thank you and thank you for watching!
Dude thank you so much . It took me a little while but I got it thanks to you !
Awesome glad it all worked out. Thank you for watching!
Have removed many starters in my days, this one is almost as bad as removing one from a Cadillac North Star where it sits on the top of the engine, hidden under the intake...but the CRV is no Accord or Civic...pain in the ass, yes but doable...but differ from brian and Honda's service manual, this entire process can be done from the top..how the hell brian got that intake out beats me, i twisted and turned and it aint coming, BUT what worked for me was to take the radiator and condenser brackets out about 4 10mm bolts each side and let the intake rest against the fan shroud, NOW you got room to get out the starter bolts 1-14mm and 1-17mm also easy access to the battery cable bolt and unplug the starter wire..unplug the knock sensor, you dont have to remove it...once all bolts and wires are removed, standing in front of the vehicle pull the starter out with your left hand, plenty clearance....note: i removed the 2 intake studs just to be able to roll that intake to create more room to get to the starter. Time consuming job? You bet...but talk to 5 mechanics and they will tell you 5 different ways to do it. This way was easy for me...tip of the hat to brian for getting the intake out, but i got small hands, i don't need a lot of space to work with..
thanks Brain. Excellent video!
dan ng thank you and thank you for watching!
You are an amazing instructor.
I don’t understand why people are taking the starter out from the top you have to remove so much from the bottom is so much easier but to each his own good video though
You made this process so difficult, just like a typical man
The starter can be taken out from the bottom
That's gross. He has videos on both, for some of us the top is way more convenient. Stop trying to be better than strangers on the internet, and stop being a jerk.
I am stuck trying to remove power terminal nut on the starter itself. There is not enough clearance to put a ratchet and socket on it because of the stupid metal pipe right above it. A 12mm wrench body is too wide and it doesn't fit because of the stupid plastic ring around it. I can't reach the bolt in the back either because the terminal cable is on its way. Any ideas?
Azriel H try and find a shorty socket. Or flex the wire out of the way.
I ended up putting the socket on the bolt by its self then clamped vise grips around the socket and was able to twist it loose. Now if the front rusted starter mounting bolt would just break loose I would be in business. WD40 do your magic!
Big help, thanks!
Mike Bedont glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for the detailed information!
This is the ONLY way to do it.
Don't bother with doing it from below.
This is a bit more difficult but MUCH easier
Haha I thought you labeled the vid wrong, OMG you tore the engine apart to change the starter motor haha too much. I like my Chevys. 4 hours to change a starter . Cheers buddy...
Really helpful video !!! Thank u ..!
Thank for watching and writing to me with the nice words!
Awesome video. Thank you very much
i was hoping you where doing a prank to us by telling that you had to remove all those parts to get to the starter. but sadly by half of the video i realize you was serious. Honda is really bad doing that design. Ones I had to replace the starter of my seat ibiza and didn't have to remove anything extra. was accessible and easy. Good designs are harder to find...
InterlinkKnight I agree with you these cars are getting crazy to work on. Thank you for watching and sharing your story!
Very informative thank you!
Thank you so much for this, it saved me.
Edward Rader awesome glad to help and thank you for writing to me and watching the videos!!
What would be the difference to the 2008 CRV?
fabio ordonez it's pretty much the same job. Maybe some small clips would be the only differences .
fabio ordonez it's pretty much the same job. Maybe some small clips would be the only differences .
fabio ordonez it's pretty much the same job. Maybe some small clips would be the only differences .
Thank you for the video. I just finished my 2009 CRV (182.5K miles) starter ... I'd like to share what I've learned:
1. I first tried from the bottom. I don't have a lift as I'm at home. Only have a jack and jack-stands. I removed the bottom plastic shield - it's tedious, but doable. Then the bitch bracket - true to its name, especially the top bolt, which needs a deep 12 mm socket, and some extensions to the ratchet. Be careful, don't strip it; the bottom 12 mm is easy. Then I loosen the front 17 mm bolt on the starter. It's a bit tight, but doable. After that, everything is a nightmare. First you can't see, but can only feel the back bolt with the tip of my middle finger (fittingly). I took off the knock sensor connector. But I can't even fit the socket onto the bolt because I can't see anything (I didn't even know how long of a socket to use), and there's just no room to work. Working from the bottom my arms and hands can't twist and turn as well. I wondered how people can torque anything from the bottom ... So after half a day, I gave up working on the bottom. I researched some more to see how people did it from the top, which brought me to this video.
2. I followed everything to this video to a Tee ... that is all the way until taking the intake plenum out. I couldn't do it even after wiggling and jiggling everything. The radiator hose was blocking me. The part of the intake that was taken out (the one with 4 bolts, strapped away to the hood hinge) was blocking me. So I didn't take it out. I orient it like the video says to the right and upward - it's a quarter way out. But I now can see the starter and have enough room to work on it.
3. I find it easiest to break the black plastic around the + connector (12 mm nut) and fit a wrench in there to hand loosen it. After that's out, remove the connector clip. After all that's out, then you can really access the back 14mm long bolt. It's a bit tough to get it out but follow the video and you can work it out. (I didn't have a 14mm socket with the right depth to fit right between the Knock sensor and the + cable).
4. I slowly remove the starter (remember I don't have my intake out completely and only partially). I put in the new one (from O'Reilly's, new Ultima Starter)
with the back bolt already loosely on the starter. Then I slowly thread it with my hand until it catches. Thereafter I hand thread the bottom 17mm (from bottom of the car). You may have to use 3 fingers to align the starter by supporting it, and use the other 2 fingers to hand thread. After a while it'll only turn with a ratchet, get it all the way down and snug it. Then snug the bottom bolt (again, from the bottom of the car, which is easier - it might not be accessible if you didn't have the bottom plastic shield removed).
5. Then I put on the 12mm nut on the + terminal of the starter. There's just enough room to do that ... some say it's easier to do this FIRST before the back bolt, but because I don't have the right depth 14mm socket, this is the route I took. Then I connected back the connector, knock sensor, and put everything back.
6. The car started, but there's a high frequency buzz ... it just doesn't want to go away. It starts/drives no problem except for that noise. At this point I was very upset. I just spent 4 to 5 hrs and now I might have to take it all apart again. I could have nicked a cable? Not connect something correctly? Missed a vacuum line? I spent the night thinking about what the hell I didn't do - or was it a bad "brand new starter?"
7. In the morning I decided to take it out ... which means I'm doing it again (bad news) ... the good news is I know exactly what to do. It took about 1 hr to remove everything, including the starter. (I only have all hand tools and no power tools).
8. I went to another local Auto Part store and asked for a Denso Starter (280-6007) ... They had it (a re-man) and I bought it (for about the same price as the Ultima starter).
9. I went home and put it on. The only difference is their + terminal on the starter is more raised and uses a 13mm nut. Putting it on was very easy.
10. I buttoned up everything. It took about 45 minutes. Started the car (sweet sound of a nice start) and no buzz no hum afterwards. After putting in the plastic bottom, I'll be finally done!
11. Conclusion - A. Don't buy after market shit. Don't even bother. Go with either OEM or Denso for Hondas. End of story. I feel so angry that I had to do this 2x. But I was also glad to have done it again so now I feel like I'm certified to do this from now on (dumb joke) ... B. For Honda Accord, there's much more room in front of the radiator so the plenum comes out without a problem. For the CRV there's just not much room, but I got the job done without getting it completely out. You just need to orient the plenum enough to expose the Starter. C. For do it at home guys, I just don't see how you can do it from the bottom. I've read that you can take out the Knock Sensor (with a 27 mm or 1-1/16), but for the most part you're working blind ... I hate that. Maybe a tech can do it from the bottom if they have a lift AND they've done it from the top before to know exactly where everything is ... if you can't work blind, I'd suggest not wasting time down there. Just not worth it. D. Follow this video ... and you won't go wrong. E. The 2nd time, I did it in about 2 hrs. So the first timers, I'd suggest saving at least a good part of the day to do this. In the end you'd save yourself $500 to $800 worth of labor.
Daniel Y Glad the video helped you out. And thank you for sharing your experience with everybody👍
One thing I missed: The Denso Starter was re-manned in the USA! Definitely the right buy!
Great vid Brian and thx!
steve586586 thank you and thank you for watching!
Great mechanic ,but i done this job from the bottom
Me too, I posted the video above
Leave the TB alone , the gasket is paper and will take a 1/2 hour of scraping to replace now
How the hell do you fish the intake manifold out after 8t is unbolted?
Are we replacing the starter or rebuilding the engine...Lol
Молодец ещё бы по русски говорил!😀
So I just did this, plus new battery, new alternator on my ladies crv. Now it cranks but won’t start. Any ideas?Anybody, I’m begging here
Thank you sir
Silishi Marie thank you for watching!
Wow this seems like a lot. I’m discouraged to replace my stater🤦🏽♂️
My cousin changed the starter on my 2007 Honda CRV and now the fuel pump is not getting power?? Any suggestions? Anyone? Help!
I can't get that fu#$'ng bracket off the intake manifold for the life of me! :(
Car manufacturers would not build starters so hard to reach go from the bottom!!!
Thank you
John Reed thank you for watching!
Я снял стартер через низ на 2,4 двигатель!!!!!!!!!!!!!как по мануалу!!!!!
A lot of people need to understand you have to replace all these gaskets you can’t just remove this shit and not replace the gaskets for throttle body and exhaust manifold
Perfect.
Wow , this brother has no clue about doing things the easy way . He will dismantle the whole engine before he figure out how to replace a spark plug 😬
Way to over-engineer things, Honda... FFS !!! >:(
The design is ridiculous, almost like maintenance wasn't a variable in the engineer's thinking. I did it from the bottom and it took over an hour.
Soooo stupid removing the intake for such a simple task. Did it from under in less than 30 minutes... the bolt in the back seems like a pain in the ass, but it has a extension on it. No big deal....
You got to be kidding me..Remove throttle body and air intake manifold to replace the starter. Give me an old car you can work on easy anyday..
Patrick McNulty you can actually do this without taking the throttlebody and intake off but it is difficult. I agree if you though the old cars are much easier to work with.
Whole lot easier from underneath……
why in the absolute fuck did this man remove the exhaust manifold
Did you actually watch the video? I didn’t take any exhaust parts off at all that was an intake manifold.
Screw this! Every other car company allows you to get to the starter from underneath the vehicle. All of this nonsense just to remove a part with two bolts. What the Hell is Honda's problem?
I agree it sucks!
Do roboty...
Only an idiot would do it that way. You do not take intake or air off
Ron Jelinek so what if you could not get the bolts free? Only a idiot would make a comment like that.
Amazing explanations...Thanks